BOLTING THE 8HP to N54 TURBO LAMIK KIT: FABRIKATER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 มี.ค. 2022
- BOLTING THE 8HP to N54 TURBO LAMIK KIT: FABRIKATER
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It doesn’t like changing program modes unless the engine is running or the selector is disconnected for some reason. I shat bricks after I plugged my selector in and it stopped changing program modes but after I started the car it functioned normally. I’m using an approved F10 shifter too. I believe is a feature not a bug. Who knows why tho.
Also note the 8hp converters have 3 distinct clicks when installing the converter. I got stuck thinking it was pushed in all the way but there was an extra bit of fiddling to get it all the way in.
Lamik did reply about program switch and said the same thing, it wont work properly in N or P. So thats nice to know it also lines up with your experience. Getting nervous for the first start thats for sure.
@@ZeroTo60Tube happy nervous mate for sure. She’s gonna be mint. I’ve got my car shifting on the jack stands as I need to finish the front end and it shifts really well from what I can tell.
Plugging 2 controllers will really mess up. The TCU now sees 2 resistances (of the controllers joined together) in parallel. This will change the voltage levels to oddball values.
Gutted to see your heart drop there on code 001. The perseverance on camera is incredible. So many other content creators would edit out the niggly bits. Andrew you are a legend.
I want to show what its really like. Its pretty tempting to edit something and make it look easy or perfect as a youtuber. I want to show the reality of doing this stuff as a DIYer.
@@ZeroTo60Tube hell yeah! It keeps me coming back. Anyone that's ever started a project can relate to the trials and tribulations. The headbolt oddesy was epic. The calculus of trying something for a solution or just waiting around rings true. My e61 is up on jackstands waiting on O2s and HPFP in the post.
This is a big project. Can wait to see it on the road!!! Love this series!
Andrew, quick tip when you're pulling motors. At 0:38 seconds when you're walking around behind the motor, you can see a cast loop above the starter motor. Believe it or not, that is a near perfect balance point to pick a motor and trans up with, when they are still bolted together. D shackle on that, a short length of chain, and pull it out the front of the car, quickest way, then separate motor and box on the ground. Obviously, this one you did differently and dropped the subframe though.
If the convertor is touching the flex plate, you don't have enough end float, which allows the torque convertor to expand and contract when heat cycling. This puts undue pressure on the front pump in the trans, and can cause all sorts of issues. Might pay to check what end float you need to have, and gently grind the washers on the plate down a bit to get it right. Lamik will tell you what end float you need, that might be the 2-4mm clearance he is talking about (though that seems like a lot of end float, usually around the 2mm range is best).
Hahaha hit enter too early, at 9:12 you are nearly touching that loop.
But never pull it out too much...
Loving this series Andrew. Learn something every episode. Keep up the great work. Hoping the shifter is ok, so we don’t have to wait for a new one!
I can use one of the other ones for testing or driving, but would be nice if this just works straight up as its easiest to fit.
You the man! Getting closer with every day. Exciting! Go Andrew Go!
At 4:48 was the last piece of the puzzle for me, Now my selector is working and I'm now 8speed, Thank you
Awesome, glad to help out
It's coming along guys! good luck. Dutch regards, Nico.
You made me so damn proud when you brought out a reciprocal saw to cut a bell housing!!! 😜. Australia for the win.
Nice work mate, I know there will likely be a few issues when starting but I have total trust (and popcorn).
Lol, everything is crossed at this point.
@@ZeroTo60Tube well mechanically all should be well I reckon. As far as voltage drops and shit from the shifter, I will probably here you from my place..... But as per usual, I know you will sort it 😉
i literally just used a reciprocating saw to modify an (auto) transfer case to fit my manual trans on my e46 lmfao
Awesome progress !
Sees upload notification*
Straight to TH-cam
HELL YEAH!!!
Love the build wanted to do it along time ago
But about the shifter why don't use the shifter from the e92 m3? I ha e installed on my 335i 2010 dct and it work and looks great and with drive logic to control the clutches give it a go u might like and work great
Cheers
You'd be surprised how fast and effective a file is on aluminium. I often look for whatever electric tool i can find to do the job like that but find after all the faffing of grinder, rotary tool, saws all etc the file ends up doing it quicker and more accurate. Good job though. Your saws all technique was pretty good! Much more brave than me.
Thank you very much!
Wow, that turned out a bit better than expected. The sight of the reciprocal saw near that gearbox 😱😂
I mean as long as you look at it on the right angle it looks perfect haha
Getting excited for first start.
The front wheel of a Makita belt sander is awwsone for shaping out cuts like that ;) 👍
Yes yes yes!!! This is soo exciting!!! Amazing job you doing Andrew!! Can't wait to see it in the car!!
Btw, just a thought, would the e92 DCT shifter work also with the lamik setup? It looks pretty similar to that x1 shifter you have.
I think it would, but if Lamik haven't tried and tested something they wont recommend it. Right now they support. e60 e shifter, f series f10/f30 shifter and F series M-DCT shifter. But they did reply saying if it doesnt work in the car they will be able to sort something out by borrowing someones car to sniff the x1 canbus.
Can't wait for the first start!
Nerves are building. I’ve touched so many things at once here. Very slim chance it will all go smooth.
I love the fact you’ve not gone for the easy route to do all this with what the manufactures of these special parts recommend, you’ve looked at what they have supplied and improved on it! Very daring lol good content to! I’m currently putting the m57 into my Landrover defender n using the standard r380 gearbox but everyone keeps telling me to use the bmw gearbox and the turbo lamik controller to make it work!
Luckily I’m manual in my 335i so won’t ever need to do what ur doing to mine, the defender might well get this treatment if the r380 blows up!
I was actually speaking with a guy last week over here who does the Landrover conversions. He has been using the 6r80 as they have the external TCU however he is also looking at the Lamik options for the 8 speeds. The extra ratios would have to be beneficial for the Diesels narrow power band.
@@ZeroTo60Tube mat Adams is his name on TH-cam he uses the 8hp bolted to the back of the m57 with the lamik controller, looks and goes very well for an old defender lol
Oh yesssssss this is going to be one badness machinery. Ready🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲 #teamn54
yesss man!! getting there. loving this
do ya have to fill the torque convertor before fitting?
ohh you just did it hahah
Yes yes!!!! Hopefully have everything in the car and powered up today.
Your diy skills are very impressive
Thank you! Still learning!
Good job 👍
Check the pins on the TCU and give them a snug with a pick, they sometimes throw codes because of poor connection
Do you have a lamik controller?
@@ZeroTo60Tube yes ;)
Try a Spanish windlass to stretch out the pipes and maybe a little heat?
What are the main problems that arrise with the e92-93 335i? What should you lookout for when buying one?
Holy Hacksaw Batman!
Coming together nice. Made me a little nervous watching you put the converter in; until you went back and filled it. Wonder if your error code might be the power supply.
I hope so. There is a little ac leakage on that power supply. It’s old. Like really old, it was a car stereo demo board supply from wow sight and sound back in the day. I bought it when they closed down, for like $10 🤨. God knows how old it actually is.
Excellent
Andrew aeroflow should have the transmission oil line fittings for the box so you can use an external oil cooler and get rid of the oil water cooler cheers glenn
They don’t, I did check there back in Jan when I first put the flow max together. The 8hp is bigger than theirs and the bmw 6hp is smaller.
@@ZeroTo60Tube can you cut the pipes off the fittings and run new hose?
12:37 missed opportunity for a crocodile dundee reference, thats not a blade... this is a blade!
ive been waiting to watch you cut it before i cut mine on the built trans lol
Just sending you an email with some pics!!!! Use a grinder.... its soft as butter.
thanks for the tips! im finally in a rush to get it finished. we have a big half mile event coming up may 7th, im getting the stock motor back in with the 6266, n53 head running 8hp on maxxecu. im hoping to take the stock motor n54 half mile record with the 8hp. bc is making me a 12:1 comp 3.3l stroker kit to run in my wet sleeved block with the cnc n53 head and 288/284 +11/12 cams. i had so many custom parts made its taken so long to get it all working together lol. Your videos on the hp stuff and the can bus wiring, REALLY saved me so much time. thanks again bro!
@@Mp-jw1qg I thought 11:5:1 comp?
@@bimmerfab i have a stock bore, 11.5:1 set of pistons and boostline rods that i was going to stick in the built motor but bc said he would make me a 3.3 stroker crank rods and pistons with comp for methanol so im going to try two different configurations. i have like 5 n54 engines between my 2 built cars lol. im going to use the wet sleeved block on the high comp stroker and ill send CSS another block for closed deck on the other one. car is going racing all season so ill definitely use both engines
"Clank-ker-chunk"! Did you hear that?
There went the warranty! hahaha
fricking cool
I Interested. It is possible to bmw f10 fit M57 3.0d engine🤔
Solenoid code is from no fluid I bet. If the trans had a HIS pump it could shift it there was fluid in the accumulator. Or the wires for shifter is wrong so when the shifter is powered it causes a comm error. Do you have an oscilloscope? Plugging the shifter in and out under an oscilloscope will provide more answers
I do not have an oscilliscope. I would like one tho.... one day, one day
I heard from some people in the community that the uro parts aluminum parts shed off aluminum bits into the insides of the oil housing when they used the uro aluminum oil cap replacement. I’m curious to know your take on this pan and if you had any experience with the 6hp21 uro verision pan. Edit There’s also one from Zegg i heard is good also. Good luck on the build!
I hadn't actually heard of any issues and wanted to do some googling before i replied. I think these pans should be ok, i had a look inside and its all pretty well made, although i didn't take the filter housing apart. We'll see anyway. fingers crossed it is ok.
@@ZeroTo60Tube where do we buy this alloy 8HP pan?
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the reply I might do the uro pan also since I’m due for service. If you ever have an update later on or review later that would be appreciated. Are you also running a trans cooler on the 8hp when it’s fitted? I really wanted to do this on my car also if and when my 6hp starts to go
In future use a jigsaw with metal blade way more precise
Does anyone know what exactly makes the difference between the 8hp70, and say the 8hp45? Is the 70 physically larger, or just tougher internals?
Great progress! Can't wait to see this one at rolls. Im currently trying to fix my 8hp. 6th gear is slipping. Tried a trans fluid my tuner recommended and it's much better but I think I'm gonna need a rebuild soon. Possibly a Pure trans.
The 8hp70 is rated for 700nm of torque it is physically larger and has much stronger internals than the 45, being only rated at 450nm. It’s a first generation 8hp the 75 is a second generation. T
Maybe just need a torque reinforcement/rebuild
Your not gonna run an aftermarket trans cooler? I definitely would recommend it. Have gotten much better life out of 6hp21s from just adding a aftermarket cooler and good fluid
The car does have an aftermarket trans cooler.
@@ZeroTo60Tube ok i just couldn't remember. Thats good to hear. Looking forward to seeing what this can do. Will you be utilizing a trans brake ?
What is the recommended gap between the converter and flex plate when motor and trans bolted together.seems like theres no real gap on this setup
2-3mm
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks so much.appreciate the response
Nice
Glad to see you back Andrew!
Im going to 8HP swap my E92 (Currently 6HP). Did the OEM oil lines fit well after some pulling, no leaks afterwards?
They never leaked, but it was a mission to get them in to place. I'd just go striaght to an an line.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Great, thanks!
Also, were you using the 6HP26 rear trans mount? Do you have the part number?
I did, i can't remember the part number at the moment. But google will bring the part straight up@@Johannes.Lindelov
@@ZeroTo60Tube F series crossmember and 6HP26 bracket is the deal.
@@ZeroTo60Tube If I remember right, you did use Lamik transmission cooler line adapters to fit the 6HP lines to the 8HP. However I am not able to find those on their page.
hello. I am late to this party. Could you please tell me what you are trying to achieve, a street car race car drag car etc?
I note your mods somehow with trans and turbos etc.
Very fast street car
Can u guys do it on m54 🙏🏻
Yessirrr!
whats the brand of the trans jack
Its actually a bike siscor lift.
Wondering if my 8hp51 trans will work for this upgrade? 🤔
It would.
How did you manage with driveshaft length? Cause as far as I know it is to the millimeter.
The lamik kit allows for that. Auto driveshaft you do not need to change it with the lamik kit.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the reply, my concern is if I do this swap I come from manual and I think the GBX sizes are the same but sinse we do need the adapter plate for the 8hp, it will back off the equivalent of the plate size. Sorry if my EN is not the best.
@@sepoldj you will need an auto tail shaft. That being said your manual kit would be worth good money to sell with the tail shaft. Where auto tail shafts are quite common and cheap.
What oil did you put ?
Not sure if there are approved aftermarket options for 8hp
In Australia we have a company called penrite. They make an oil for the ZF transmissions 6hp and 8hp which i will be using. Same stuff i run in the 6hp. I also run Penrites DCT fluid. Its about 1/3 of the price of genuine, so we will see how it goes. There will be 1000s and 1000s of 8hps running around using it in aus.
@@ZeroTo60Tube ah that magical Penrite fluid which says compatible with zf lifeguard 6, 8, 9 and possibly any future zf fluid! Cause zf is always miles behind penrite in tech isn't it lol
@@piroozhr7968 haha, fair comment, however, i think you'll find the ZF is the "magical" fluid. Although i would be interested to know which oil supplier got the contract for the Lifeguard 6 and 8 respectively back in the day. All the "approved" means is someone is making some money out of that fluid, that doesn't need to be. Dont fall for the marketing hype. There are also better oils out there than the ZF like the redline offerings. But i have no doubt the Penrite will be as good as the ZF fluid, if not better. Keep in mind the first 6hp came out in like 2000 meaning lifeguard 6 fluid is now 20+ years old and lifeguard 8 is 10+ years old. I would expect a current aftermarket option to be better. I also learnt with the S85 approved TWS engine oil. Manufacturer approved blends do not get updated. The contracts are written and the money is made then when the engine or transmission is developed, years before it is sold to customers. The supplier of the oil to the manufacturer (BMW or ZF) has no incentive to improve the product as time goes on. Then BMW or ZF have no incentive to invest in an oil for old engine or transmission. On something 10 years old, an aftermarket oil or fluid will nearly always be better and much cheaper than what was developed for the engine or trans originally.
I am confused how the torq converter is connected to the engine is that center nub grooved or something I cant see?
6 bolts that go through the flex plates in to the tq. But it’s easier to put the bolts in once the engine is mounted and can be turned over
@@ZeroTo60Tube So the install is not complete yet you still need to put in the bolts?
@@swagfest2k144 correct
@@swagfest2k144 yes, that's how you always do it. Put the torque converter COMPLETELY on the inputspline into gearbox, mount this to the engine(no matter if in or outside to the car), bolt all bellhousing bolts, then turn crank/flexplate and gearbox/tc so they lign up and bolt the tc to the flexplate.
F-Series shifters also have PTCAN and PTCAN2 not that it would matter with TurboLamik
Yeah spot on. The concern is this shifter giving out different signals to the e60 6hp e shifter….. it does everything it should on the bench, but until it’s in the car and actually selects a gear we won’t know for sure
How can I swap an 8hp into my E60 with the 6hp?
Watch this video series…. It shows everything
Is there a xdrive version of the 8Hp?
Yes and a lot more common than 2wd versions. Every f series x5, x drive also used in Jeep Cherokee’s
That's good info. I am planning my N54/E91/xdrive. I'll have to build one they don't have them here in the states. -----pull the plastic lines off. fill them with sand and heat them with a PVC heater blanket to reform? would get you a few more inches of line.
why dont you use a f series m4/m3/m5 shifter they look better/sporty with carbon trim.
They do look amazing and will work. But making the custom trim is a bit hard for my skillset. This shifter should work with a e92 DCT trim.
Don't you need to bolt the converter up to the flex plate.
Yeah, absolutely. It’s just easier to do once the engine is up in the air.
Let’s goooooooo
Woooo
That’s not good for the converter to touch at all you need at least 2.5-4 mm clearance for the converter to have room for ballooning if there’s no room this will cause pressure on the trans pump and the thrust bearing on the crank shaft and believe me you will fuck the crank or the auto one motor I did for a mate had a similar problem with a flex plate that was warped and for all of $200 he didn’t want to spend in the end it cost him another stroker crank and a semi rebuild of the gearbox all up $3500
Im not sure, being the first one i have done, but i think it's fine. Lamik have done a few now so i trust their judgement. The converters are loose in my opinion, in the box, you can wiggle the converter when it is seated all the way in and its not like flex plate is hard up against it. I am much more concerned about whether this motor will have oil pressure or not lol
Do you even sleep? your eyes hella red or maybe the lighting
Not enough, not enough. Just so much going on at the moment. Its killer.
can you please move tha cam?
thanks.
Seriously: Stop moving that thing constantly, just put it on a tripot. Way easier, for the both of us, the viewer an you. You can use both hands in that case!
Thanks for the feedback. After doing over 600 videos, this is kind just how i end up getting the work done and filming/editing in a reasonable time, this video was about 12 hours work. Maybe i should drop down to 1 or 2 vids a week and spend 2-3 days on each vid. That would be allowing 36 hours for filming and editing instead my current 12 hours. Would you rather better quality filming with the sacrifice of less vids and slower builds?
Fiiiirrrrst!