Turbo Lamik 8HP TCU Modification Ryutech PCB INSTALL (SORT OF)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มี.ค. 2022
- Turbo Lamik 8HP TCU Modification Ryutech PCB INSTALL (SORT OF)
Ryutech board is available here - ebay.us/Nmojmi
Turbo Lamik Video - • TCU Turbo Lamik 8HP mo...
Ryutech Video - • ZF 8HP 45/70 TCM modif...
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Mate you're the only guy doing this TH-cam tutorial and its good quality.
I wish I had a practise in this case haha. lol. But we got there in the end
I bought the lamik kit in November and the one thing which was scaring me was the tcu conversion. I put it on hold waiting for this video. Thank you for the info sharing it is truly appreciated.
Dude it’s not too bad at all. And if you go for one of these ryutech boards and completely mess it up, you can always revert to the way lamik does them.
The lamik way doesn’t require epoxy either.
So you have 2 chances anyway!
Fantastic guide and massive thumbs up for the speed of progress in this amazing build 👏 Can't wait for the first fire-up video and the first drive 😀
Thank you for helping make it all happen!!!
im glad your ahead of me so i can learn how you do this! awsome job man
Good work man, glad to be catching up with these videos
Kick ass!! Genuine experience is awesome.. thank you so much for this!
Awesome video man. Super informative. Can't wait to see it all done and running.
I'm so freakin excited for the results!!!!
Wow. It's coming along guys! Dutch regards, Nico.
I've done a bit of soldering before, huge pads are a pain, I'd try putting solder on the pad first, then place in the PCB and solder over the top.
Melting point of solder is ~150C, to get it to stick to a pad needs to get real hot, once you get some solder melted to the pad, it will be easier to solder to solder on the surface.
Computer PCB pads have a thin layer solder already on the pad which makes it easier.
appreciate so hard working God bless fingers crossed 🤞 see in next vedio
Big thanks from me! I flow solder to the pin gap an did not know what to do. You give me the path.
Im glad my mistakes have been helpful!!! Please let me know how your conversion goes!
@@ZeroTo60Tube My adapter plate is ready 95% and now when I know how to save my plate the electronics is next.
@@ksmotorsportru hi mate I'm doing the same conversion and if you share some photos with all the wires and tcu locations where fit it?
As an FPV drone hobbyist a proper soldering iron is a must. They have proper station style with higher wattage for around $50. Well worth it from keeping destroying your components. Using a fine round tip instead of the blade style tip. Pre tin your board. Flux is your friend. Thinner Guage solder wire is your friend. Clean your tip after each set. Practice setting solder pads on some scrap boards or buy a soldering practice board to figure out how your solder acts and work on your technique. I've destroyed many flight controllers in the beginning of my hobby due to simple soldering mistakes. Take your time. Love your work!
Everytime I use flux it ruins my tips?
@@piovo5222 clean with a brass solder cleaner pad and some solder to refresh the tip. They're very inexpensive.
@@CHRISGr33r I do, it just always seems to oxidize
@@piovo5222 your leaving your iron on for too long when it's not not in use. This is really easy to do if you have your heat turned really high. It doesn't take much heat to do thin wires with a decent iron so you won't have to be too cautious about it, just mindful
@@CHRISGr33r temp set to 280-320 always gets put into sleep mode after soldering whilst prepping, expensive tips decent iron idk anymore dude
Can’t wait to see this thing out Queensland raceway and other local places !
Thanks 🙏
Question: How do you get the 2 black plastic halves of the tronic unit back together securely ?
Man, I cannot believe the amount of information you have consumed over the last couple of years with the E90 platform and now this! Amazeballs bro
Freakin’ Amazeballs! Andrew, I know you read this. You should be so proud of yourself for this, your candor in public is inspiring. I know this channel and work are just a slice of your life, but fuckin hell you are consistently on full send mode with it.
Legend.
Nawwww you guys make me blush ☺️
@@ZeroTo60Tube seriously man. It's a bit awe inspiring to be honest
I have come to realise I lack balls when it comes to car mods. You guys are are gutsy risk takers!
Dude I used to feel the same way. You just have to keep researching until it doesn’t seem risky any more. The first time I did a mechatronics seal kit on a 6hp was about 4 years ago and every mechanics and trans specialist locally said it wasn’t going to work. But I just read about it and kept learning and reading forum posts and gave it a crack, the box felt like a brand new one. That was like 2 months of that fear and worry about doing it wrong and it worked. When you have your first big fix everything else seems easier. Even drilling in to a block for head bolts haha…..
Instantly subscribed! Thank you sir! I am buying an 8hp75x gearbox to swap in a nissan patrol with LS engine
Looking to convert my E46 330cd to 8hp exactly the videos I need.
top work 👍
Sean depending on your usage you might favor the cantcu as it doesn't need the swap of the oemtcu
Very cool video this one.
hi, i saw your 8hp retrofit videos, i own a bmw f01 6hp and i would like to fit an 8hp gearbox, what do you recommend? can the lamik system be used?
I think you could get a better reaction with the solder if you tin the pads and scratch/scuff the tcu pins. And try using a flux core solder just clean it up with alcohol. Good stuff tho. Not many people are willing to attempt this
I need your help, one pin is broken and two others are bent, out of the 16 pins that the plug hus of unit. I mean the connecting the 16 pins
is placing that mod necessary when doing 8hp swap
Bud may you know - have the kit from Lamik as well , PMC adaptor for M54B30 , e39 2003 5 series 5 speed auto , car boosted . And 8hp70 gearbox ZF , the TCU needed connected to the my harness of 5 speed ? Or just doing wiring , board soldering , screen , controller wirring and it will be enough? Because yours are 6speed and you connect it to your original wiring to get it think it still 6. Thanks in advance
And sorry for my bad english
Pre tin the post’s and pads 😎
Awesome 😎
Andrew, have you looked into installing the Sonnax Zip Kit or any other upgrade parts on the 8HP70?
No, we havent had one thats had any issues....... yet.
Brilliant well done mate, could I ask what tool you use to program the tcm?
It is a full controll unit made by TurboLamik. The original TCM is bypassed.
Hi, I have an BMW F10 with 8HP and it shifts as if the sport and comfort mode are mixed together... is it because of TCU or have you heard about this problem ?
Use 63-37 solder, I think you only struggled because you use leaded free which takes a lot of heat to burn.
This is Dreams becoming Reality🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥Let's Go #teamn54🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲
Nice to see you used a solderboard
It should have been the easy way 🤣
ryobi solver gun I like try it
How much is the price pls
old solder doesn't really go bad apart from the flux but you were adding flux anyway so shouldn't have been a problem, and the trick to soldering with an underpowered iron is to pre-heat the part first with hot air
I think it’s cause he used leaded free solder, if he used 63-37 solder which burns at a much less temperature I think he would have been fine, also leaded free solder cracks later on so could cause reliability issues further on?
We need a tuner pro video!
Just now finding the time to go through all your vids I didn't get the chance to watch.
I am interested to know what the price difference (Delta) is between the DCT and 8hp in Auzzie land is?
I am considering my next build for endurance racing to be LS E92, haven't decided on a transmission yet.
This is a project for when I'm done building the sprint E90.
Keep up the good work
Cheers
M
DCT with stock clutches is cheaper. But wont hold decent power. The clutch upgrade options on a DCT cost more than the entire 8hp box. 8hp70 is about 10-12k conversion. DCT is probably close 8-10k at the moment if you are buying parts from a wreckers. 8hp swaps are still new, but i think there is more potential.
Is there any way to test the TCU on the mechatronics unit before fitting it to the gearbox without a CAS reprogramming module?
well if you have a factory tcu, you need something that will connect and send the required can bus signals.
Weller solder station with digital temperature control is what I use, works better than irons without controls if quality is important. But soldering can become messy and frustrating real quick if something goes wrong 🤣
I use the same. I also have a digital hot air soldering gun from them too. I use the hot air gun for BMW Dme mosfets etc. He should of definitely upgraded to proper equipment before doing this job.
So to my understanding these boards are good for the lamik and htg controllers?
The lamik and HTG do use different boards. The HTG has resistors in it.
I need your help, one pin is broken and two others are bent, out of the 16 pins that the plug hus of unit
Harris, i need some more info. If your problem is bent pins, im sure you know how to fix that.
What a fantastic video, zf auto are a prick in falcon's well done! It must be hard recording, talking and trying to work at the same time
Man it’s a challenge. I sort of direct and script the vids as I go and then try and remember each take to make the editing process quicker. Having my mind writing the script, acting it out and thinking about the edit all while attempting got the first time is a challenge….. haha. I have to expect the odd cock up.
I've always messed with my cars and made them faster in the past. You have me convinced now to leave my BMWs stock because they are too hard. 🙂
hahaha, man its the complications that make it rewarding, especially when you munch a turbo LS
Wanted for this in 2012, GS ute, sold because of the 6hp26 was a heap of shit........
Looking to put the 8hp in the E39 540
Only thing I’m nervous about is the TCU stuff
Ok I'm out stuff doing all this 😂
The shutter speed feels a little high. Set it to 1/40th if you wanna continue in 25fps. Or if you want to go slightly smoother you can bump up to 30fps but only a 1/50th or 1/100th shutter speed will work without indoor lights flickering in Australia. And you'll likely have to set your camera to NTSC mode to activate 30fps. And even then, in might be 29.97 even if it doesn't tell you it is, so then you'll have to edit and export as a 29.97 or it'll have weird skipping artifacts with continuous movement.
Outside of that, you can film at 50fps, and for that, I recommend a 1/50th or 1/60th shutter speed. Above all, have your shutter locked/set your camera to auto-adjust exposure via ISO only. And set it to bias half a step darker than default if you can so there's a lesser chance of the highlights being blown out, which you can't fix in post, unlike the darks being crushed, which you CAN fix in post. These tips combined will provide a smooth and consistent natural motion blur, as well as generally smoother and better-looking video for internet content if you go with 30 or 50fps.
Lastly, what the heck does this mod do? Does it give full manual control/universal compatibility with engine swaps/dropping this trans in other platforms? External trans control for both auto and manual modes so there's no need for ECU compatibility? What?
Where did you buy the turbo lamic tcu from? Their websites shop seems to be down the last few weeks
I bought it direct back in January. However its all done by email. They want to make sure you wont have any issues.
@@ZeroTo60Tube okay thank you!
You doing great job!! Are you going to be future proofing the trans itself tho? Like so it can have a good safety margin in the trans itself to handle the power? If I was throwing in an 8hp70 I'd throw in the sonnax zip kit into the valve body, test it make sure all the valves are good for vacuum, repair ones that are bad, if any. Inspect the internals, clutches, baskets, planetaries, bushings, just to make sure its all good internally, no excessive wear on anything. Unless you know the history of the car the trans came from. Would just be a shame to have gone through so much effort and it be a couple failing components internally that end up ruining a good track day. And with the FlowMax+ turbos on the motor you putting together, you'll be cooking mad power, I'd upgrade the clutches in the trans. Seen some guys build these 8hps with carbon kevlar frictions, then the trans got abused with over 1k hp and then they took apart, inspected and all good as new solid!
No, no upgrades to the trans itself. I don't feel the need for this sort of setup based on all the people i have spoken to. However, remember i don't do thing the normal way. It's a valid concern, but it doesn't matter how much you spend, or prepare you can have a failure. So we will go the budget option first and see how it goes. I want to show people what happens on the budget route first. The same mindset i had on the 17t car.
Oh yea thats right! 🤣 I do keep forgetting its supposed to be on a budget lol I always seem to get carried away with the "might as well do this and that while you in there" #1 reason most my projects aren't done also!
Really curious how that clutch pedal option on the lamik controller would work.. would it release the clutch on torque converter? Or Nuetral dump type of deal? I'm just as excited to see you get it all put together! A lot of valuable information you give!! Thank you so much!
@@darksidemotorwerks9867 I havent asked lamik exactly whats happening with the clutch kit yet. However i imagine it will be the clutch on the gears. The TQ clutch seems much smaller than the main clutch packs. From the cut outs i have seen anyway. I feel like the main clutches will take the shock better, where the tq clutch relies on input and output speed of the TQ being close ish as it locks up anyway.
@@ZeroTo60Tube only problem is I've seen what happens to the 8hp baskets with those clutch dumps on launch control. Because the baskets/drums are aluminum and thin wall, 8hp cars launch off 2nd gear usually with the launch control and the drum over time breaks from the shock. Cant recall off top of my head which drum it is exactly, maybe it was on the earlier 8hps.. I know Audis with the v8 4.0tt 8hp that were built over 900hp had issues with that also. Had guys show me same thing in the Jaguar SVR, same 8hp, similar issue. That one was stock tho. The frictions or steels over time basically cut into the drum ribs untill it was just cut through and the drum needs to be replaced. They thinner more fragile than the 6hp drums. Thats why I'm wondering how the clutch feature would function.
Więcej topnika. Tylko jakiegos lepszego. :)
The tcu looks like its a SOC (system on a chip) like whats in recent phones. The TCU is alot larger though. I think is the integrated heat spreader which is like a cooling helper but since there wont be anymore computing done there cooling isnt required. (i just got the the point you realized it was a heat spreader)
about 20 mins in to trying to remove the solder it all made sense. So got out the big guns...still didnt work ha
need help turbo lamik erro code 20 21
after ripering need programing?
Its complete delete of oem tcu. Wont work in factory car anymore.
I found it very easy to solder them to be honest. Used my normal iron at 350*C and 60/40 solder. Didnt have any of the issues you were having.
He used lead free 😣
@@ichoozjc I’m curious as to why to be honest
@@mrpoopybutthole6314 could be an Aussie thing? Maybe that's just restricted heavily there. Harder to get solder with lead?
@chris can you explain the issue with lead free in this application? I have no idea.
@@ZeroTo60Tube takes more heat and is more prone to cracking, I believe. I just know that lead mixes are so much easier to work with. I'm not soldering by trade, no expert here. But I spent several years building drones and always hated when I had to desolder a large part from China.
how are you doing the torque converter to flex plate? im using domiworks 17mm thick adapter, the only solution i can come up with, is to extend the dowel on the converter pilot 17mm and to create a 17mm thick ring to space the tc to the flex plate. if you have an easier solution please reply. lol
I’m using n57 torque converter. So only need to add some washers and nut in the N54 flex plate location.
@@ZeroTo60Tube im using the a90 converter wich is the same back plate, same depth etc. the only difference is the side of the drum on the converter itself. does the n54 flex plate account for some of the adapter plate thickness?
@@Mp-jw1qg To be honest at this point i am just following lamiks instructions for the N54 to N57 converter. Ill get it mounted to the box and see shortly.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i havent had a chance to get the trans bolted to the block to findout myself. I appreciate you sharing. I want to figure out how to setup a bump feature on the trans brake and instead of using the foot break to engage it i want to use a momentary button, as with the bump. lamik said it could be done in the future but, my race car needs the ability to get on the 2 step, and then bump in . Im worried that i wont be able to get the g42-1450 spooled up in time off the foot brake having to stage deep and then get on the trans brake. Im used to tripping the first yellow light, getting on the trans brake, then bumping in. on a side note, Im cutting the entire e92 steel body panels off to replace it with carbon fiber panels from makinka projekt , i got the e92 down to 2400 lbs, caged with the fully bult 8hp75 in the passenger seat since its not mounted lmao. this car is going to hit the streets at just under 2700 lbs with me in it.
@@Mp-jw1qg hmmmmmm i havent looked that far yet, even with transbrake and 2 step shes gonna take a few seconds to get it on boost. So hopefully lamik sorts it out. I bet they will, i get the impression, until they have a feature working and tested, they just say no no no, which is a bit of a translation issue. My convos went from cruise control will not work, to oh we have cruise working on e90 now, in the space of 2 days.
I didn't see any rubber seals between valve body and the gear housing which is perhaps a good improvement. Those seals leak pressure in 6hp and ruin the transmission
I did see one. But didn’t spend much time looking, there is at least one. I’ll check further.
@@ZeroTo60Tube no big bridge seal like the one from 6hp though ?
@@piroozhr7968 No, no bridge. But i think a similar thing is going on at the accumulator in the front. The oil pump setup on the 8hp is one of the big upgrades over the 6hp, but i havent fully got my head around it just yet.
SOOOO... if this controller works on this 8hp trans, i'm wondering if it will work on the 6hp trans..
It does, well I know he used to do one for the 6hp. But 8hp is where it’s at.
He stopped 6hp work in favor of 8hp because it is its successor in every way.
That first solder iron that you use is probably not more than 25w solder iron, with 100w iron you can solder battery cables with no problem, a true 50 to 70w will solder no problem.
I agree, I nearly bought a new soldering iron last year. A proper one but just couldn’t quite afford to and this cheap one does the cas and frms fine. Many regrets at this point! Ahhh well we live and learn.
It’s so strange to me how they put the tcm inside of the pan right on the valve body.
I guess its good being all one package to drop in at the factory. But you can imagine the heat that TCU goes through all the time. Pretty impressive really. Same for the 6hp.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i was thinking the engineers must have been tasked with making something both cheaper and less reliable then they came up with this all in one unit that is subjected to more heat then it needs to be.
@@BEAMERNOOB could well be one of those, designed to fail things, thats for sure.
uses solder with flax inside
All these were flux type
There is 134 comments, I’m not reading them all! Could you tin them before inserting the board
Yikes. Nice vid. You may want to get some electronics spray cleaner for next time. Brake cleaner may degrade the encapsulation.
Yeah, for years I used to buy shelite as brake clean. But I can store the 200l at this shed. Shelite was so clean and evaporated pretty quickly. This latest stuff of from the local auto store in a 20l drum and it’s just not the same. Seems like a much lower solvent content and takes a while to evaporate
Excellent video, I wonder if they have a kit to use this controller on my 6hp transmission, check out my video on the 6hp valve body and please share your thoughts on my channel your opinion would be highly regarded, thank you
No such thing as "too much care" when you are doing this for the very first time.
Throw a zipp kit in while you are there.Going to put one into mine.
I’m not going to. This box has only done about 40,000ks and tbh I have never seen a trans down here in aus that needed a zip kit. I have never seen mechatronics fail internally. I know they do, but it seems to be rare.
Fair enough.I know that the accumulator pistons/springs are plastic standard on the ZF and the zip kit has steel springs as a upgrade.May improve reliablity.From what I’ve seen on line,the accumulators which are plastic can de-form over time. 40km on yours should be good,mine has 207km,so while I am in there will do them.👍
@@rd.3696 Definitely makes sense i guess at your milage. Please let me know what your original stuff looks like when you do get it out.
@@ZeroTo60Tube will do.
Dude, Like Brendan Randle is saying, DO NOT risk the whole thing turning to sh.. because of the soldering.
You need to get Rosin Cored Solder (proper stuff) from Jaycar or equivalent electronic supply shop
Bigger soldering Iron, DO NOT use the that damn flux.
Put Rosin Cored Solder onto the iron, You heat both surfaces (pads) then apply solder so it melts and joins the 2 together.
You need to be ultra careful or you can scrap the whole thing, you need to be more careful with the electronics.
You are not soldering copper pipes together 😪
I feel like you have repeated most of what i said. Appreciate the concern tho haha
You werent getting enough heat to the pins because you immediately pulled the tip right after dabbing the solder on, leading to a cold junction at the joint. You’re also running way too much solder in with not enough heat. If you get a blade tip or a cup tip, you can prime the tip with solder, flux the pins and drag it across all the pins. Any bridging that happens, just apply flux with a clean tip and pull it away. You also aren’t cleaning your tip everytime, using the flux to clean isnt the proper method. You should have a wet sponge with deionized water. Get some proper wick too, don’t use those suction cups. The plastic tips contaminate the connection.
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BMW engineer : This is the most advanced gearbox we have designed yet, it has a wide range of additional features the previous 6hp didnt have.
Zero260: To be fair it looks pretty similar to a 6hp, with some extra shit at the back
The more i have learnt about it, the more simple it seems. Clutch plate spacing is tighter, which what leads to the quicker shift times. Different oil pump design, but the way they package the 8 ratios it brilliant. Still not a complicated box.
Moist