Great job as usual! I was a tech for 37 years and now teach Auto Tech at the same community college I attended from 1980-1982. I teach engine repair and your adventure of flying parts is just another day during a lab. Valve keepers are the number one UFOs in the shop. The crank has to turn 2:1 to the cam. The reduction at the idler allows some of the reduction to be done there and the cam sprocket to be smaller. I worked at a VW dealer from 94-97. The VR-6 engine used the same tech. I read about it in a VW intro manual and VW bragged about how they were able to reduce the width of the cylinder head by 100mm (about 4 inches) so they could put the engine in smaller cars. GM also used this on the 3.4L. Chain from the crank to the idler and belt from there to the cam sprokets The location of the timing components is being driven by the insurance industry in Europe. In the US we have the IIHS that issues safety ratings. In Europe, they have Euro NCAP. Euro NCAP figures in pedestrian injuries as part of their ratings. The ratings are used by insurance industry to set insurance rates for vehicles. When a pedestrian is hit by a car, they often end up on the hood of the car. If there is space between the hood and engine and hood does not hit the engine as it is being crushed, the pedestrian suffers less injury. By putting the timing components in the back of the engine (with the corresponding "hump") there can be more space between the engine and hood. MB does this on their hoods. We get the hood hinges to do it here in the US, but not the pyrotechnic actuators the Euro cars have. We will soon have this tech in the US. Buried deep in the recently passed Infrastructure Bill is language that directs DOT to start the process of setting standards similar to Euro NCAP. There is a lot more of this stuff in the Bill as well MB came out with a 4 cylinder diesel in the 2010-2020 time frame with the chains on the back. I worked at a MB dealer from 2013-2016 and we had to have a $3500.00 engine stand because of that motor. The engine attached to a frame where the motor mounts were that connected to the engine stand. The crankshaft was 90 degrees to the axis of the stand. The engine was rotated by a geared hand that move it end over end to get to bottom and top of the engine for repairs.
Putting timing components in the back also contributes to the coffers of the shop doing a timing chain replacement. My 3.6 GM engine in RWD configuration allows the timing chain replacement with the engine still installed. Just requires removing the accessories and the engine front cover.
I have a Toro that broke its connecting rod. (At least, that's what it sound like.) I'd send it in to him gratis, but I think it died because of oil starvation, and I don't want to look like an idiot, lol. (The lawnmower was 25+ years old, so it could have just been plain tired...)
@@CathyInBlue this engine was actually designed under the supervision of Toyota. Due to their exacting standards, BMW almost pulled out of their partnership. I work for a company that is based in Germany (I’m in the US though). I have had chances to see how the Germans engineer things and let me tell you, it is strange and definitely not designed for longevity. Due to the way that the way the German workforce is structured, I wouldn’t be surprised if this isn’t just isolated to the industry I work in.
A lot if not most of the gasket issues in BMW’s were realized after BMW changed to an O/C interval of 15k. They have since revised that down to 10k, but enthusiasts who take care of their vehicles change the oil every 5k-7.5k. These engines will last a LONG time if you take care of them.
Absolutely 100% agreed. Only morons will adhere to the extended change intervals of oil and coolant. Does anyone remember GM NorthStar engines? Intervals set at 100000 miles? used in some Cads and Olds, maybe others. They turned out to be a disaster when not getting their Oil and Coolant changed. That engine supposedly could run for a long time without coolant even. VERY BAD IDEA. Do yourselves a favor, and let me give my two cents worth of knowledge (having worked in the oil and gas industry for quite a while) Oil, wether synthetic or mineral, all come out of a hole in the ground. The difference on the synthetic oil is additives and monodispersed balls (also known as the Uglestad balls after the nowegian inventors name "Uglestad") They are really microscopic uniform polymer particles, perfectly spherical, and acts like ball bearings. (invented for use in medical research at first, but other industries like oil caught on) They were a revolution when released on the market, and Mobil1 containes these to this date. This is why Synthetic Mobil1 is probably the best motoroil you can get. I would guess others followed up but Mobil1 was first in the mid 80's. I've never had motor problems with oil, but I fastidiously cahnge it every 7-8k miles.
Nah, the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gaskets on the N engines will leak regardless of interval. I've seen it on N55s with 40k miles and 5k changes. It has little to do with the OCI unfortunately and everything to do with the material and thermal cycling.
That “timing idler” is a speed step down pulley. Probably 1.5x speed reduction based on sprocket size. This allows the cam sprockets to be smaller than if they were driven directly off the crank. This helps with packaging and allows the cams to be closer to each other, but based on the valve angles these cams are spaced far apart from each other.
Strange, it adds so much to the side of the motor. Germans and their overthinking leads to some terribly unfriendly designs. "Peak" BMW ICE motors make me yearn for our electric future.
Wtf are you serious? The V6 in c43 is stronger ..more torque more hp..and insane sound..so does V6 f type..rb26,2jz are insane..b58 is a better city quiet engine..b58 is only tuner friendly that's it
@@commantrosexetlos4700 its superior to other gas 6 engines. reliable, smooth, tons of power everywhere and real economy. extremely good efficiency for a 6 cylinder
@@hotdog9262 it's one of the best engines I agree..but as tuning goes and racing..rb26 i6..best ever ..they took her 3000whp..b58 is amazing city engine..low down torque mid and top
In 1980, I was stationed in the Army in Germany, our Squad leader bought BMW 300 with a blown engine. Be bought another engine from a scrap yard. He convinced two of us to help him remove the old engine and put in the new one. Got the new one almost in (and this is two guys with 60 inch pry bars holding it up) into position and it was the wrong bell housing. So, we had to pull the new engine out, and swap out the bell housings. and finally got that puppy in. Did I mention it was March, in Bavaria, and had a light drizzle that turned into ice? We got a PX pizza and a six pack of American beer out of it.
I saw him taking the cam caps off first and I was thinking "hmmm... how is THAT going to work out?" Well, about as well as I expected, but that only adds to the charm and character of these videos! 😃
Most of these I find extremely interesting and (oddly) relaxing. This one? The "accelerated disassembly" portions had me chuckling,, and thankful that as frustrating as it possibly was, that you weren't hurt. By the engine at least. We just won't talk about the argument with the chair
For future reference , in case you want to showcase that style of valvetronic. There’s an Allen on the face of the valvetronic motor that will turn the e-shaft to full operation or no operation
Counterbalance in an in-line 6? The beauty of such an engine is that doesn’t need a counterbalance. (Edit: my bad it was the counterbalance of the crankshaft)
Valvetronic is extra difficult to take apart. The springs can be really dangerous as you've seen. I once had a spring unleash its tension on my thumb, it survived but it was not nice. If you want to work on valvetronic engines that should run after working on them really do get the proper tools.
I'm a bmw tech and I have seen a few of these engine self destruct like this due to sucking up water. Also, I'm pretty sure the extra timing chain in the back of the engine is for either a vacuum pump or a high pressure fuel pump on diesels. These blocks are based off the B series diesels which proceeded it.
HPFP on M57, which this exact design was based on just in the front. I am rebuilding a M57 now. M57 much easier as far as the head is concerned, solid gears on the cams and no valvetronic.
I'd wager water ingestion, also. The only B58 I've seen with catastrophic bottom end damage was due to water. The shape of the manifold, the trajectory of intake air flow and the fact that there's no air-to-air intercooler low down on the front of the engine for the water to pool makes it all get pulled right into #6.
@@aimless-drifter it would have had to been sudden, catastrophic failure of that intercooler for that volume of coolant to cause that level of damage. Also (depending on where the leak and the intercooler would have sprung) it wouldn't necessarily affect #6 primarily followed by #5, as would be logically explained by an incoming mass of water up the charge pipe.
This was a cool teardown love the explosions. These autopsies on these engines keep us guessing till the issue is found. Thank you very much for another awesome video. 😀🇨🇦
I love watching these videos, they remind me of my apprenticeship days at Roots motors. Started out stripping and cleaning the engines and transmissions ready for the mechanics to work on. Then being transferred through the departments, six months on trucks, six months on service, six months body shop. Then finally I found my place in the toolroom. Looking back they were happy days.
Similar to me I started out doing service for six months, then alignment for six, then found my place doing body work. Only shop I ever worked at but I'm glad they did everything in one shop. I learned a lot and miss working on beautiful cars everyday but I left the industry for a business opportunity, only thing I don't miss is the bondo dust
I've binged watched a few of Eric's engine tear-down videos now, and the message that is coming across is: Don't deffer maintenance and change your engine oil in accordance with the manufactures recommendations! - If you don't follow these simple rules YOUR engine could end up in his workshop.
I haven't watched the video yet, but I wanted to thank you for these teardowns. They provoked me into checking on my own car. I was low on oil and overdue for a change, so I took care of both just yesterday.
Rule #1 of car ownership (For those who have internal combustion engines) Always stay on top of your Oil changes and that is a indicator your car burns oil so keep an eye on how much it's burning if it's burning more than a quart (A small bottle of Engine oil) between your oil changes then your could have an issue with your seals or Gaskets. Every 3 months change your oil or if your drive alot general Rule of thumb is every 5000 kms (or 3000 Miles roughly) You can go a bit longer with Synthetic oil.
@@thegreatcanadianlumberjack5307 Yeah... I had a completely missed oil change (naughty I know!) and was just under minimum, so about a quart down. Seems pretty average burn rate for a car of its age and mileage, though I'll watch it more closely to make sure I don't have a problem. And more importantly, actually change my darn oil on time! I drive so little that 5k (hybrid car, so engine has reduced load, manufacturer recommends 5k instead of 3k) goes by in a year's span or so.
This was a good one. These engines are stout and make 500hp with E85 and the newer TU HPFP. That coating they have on the bearings looks really good, might not have rod bearing issues like you occasionally see on the N55s.
I was really surprised how small those cylinder bores were in comparison to the block. Really thick block walls. I bet that thing is made to handle a lot of boost. Too bad it didn't help this time.
@@humphrey09applebee61 Still seems to hold up well though! It's a pretty impressive platform, especially considering this isn't even the top spec motor for this generation.
Like you videos! No joke, these motors coast a fortune. My uncle’s 2013 bmw 535i hydro-locked too (he drove through a small puddle of water, nothing too big according to him..) and insurance foot the bill which was over $22k. BMW installed new engine etc…I end up buying it from him down the road 😀
As someone who has also won and lost fights against furniture, walls, doors etc., I won't ask what happened. Hope you heal up fully and keep the videos coming
By the way , the red stuff on the upper conrod bearing is a wear resistant coat meant to make them withstand the oil starvation that can be caused by repeated use of the stop start system.Also interesting is that they moved away from the bedplate design
I’ve always wondered if the stop-start system you see on new cars was detrimental to the engine, now I know it can be and how they’re engineered to mitigate any problems with the motor.
Thanks for this video on the b58, I think it’s the best bmw engine to come out in a long time, it looks to be built like a tank. A guy locally is running one tuned to 500+ hp and has methane injection and some bolt ons, he has had zero issues in the last two years/45k
@@fzr1000981it is not a far superior engine they both are really solid motors. S58 is just a little better but that’s because it was made to handle more power than the b58 from factory. It should be better at handling power than the b58. It’s superior because of its purpose over the b58.
Good to know that you were pleased with this engine overall, I was really interested in this one because the B58 seems to be a much more reliable powerplant from BMW, compared to years past, but it was great to see a teardown like this. Thanks for the upload!
As a Retired Technician, I enjoy watching 👀 you tear down the motors. Trouble shooting for the failure was one thing I that fascinated me. I told my Wife what I was watching 👀, she said "WHAT?". Yes I'll keep watching. Thanks for taking the time from your work to make these videos. 😲👍
That timing chain design including the crank pulley/vibration dampener is identical to the M57 3.0 diesel. N54/55 have cartridge rail for the chain. This is much easier to time and avoids the old crank hub slippage. Where the idler pulley is on B58 is where the diesel HPFP is located.
very interesting. But why would BMW add the chain on a gas engine? Seems like extra parts not needed for an inherently balanced engine. Also adds costs and rotating mass. Curious. Mr. P
@@machtschnell7452 Hello Macht Schnell, For Gasoline engines, is the HPFP not driven off the exhaust cam between cyl 5 and 6? I am not familiar with the B58, but do see what looks like a mount for the HPFP pump.
@@LSmiata In BMW's new engine family, the crankcase is identical to the B57 diesel version, engineered as both a gasoline and diesel engine in one common part...kvg
@@jannehokkanen8175 What is kvg? High Pressure Fuel Pump not located between Cly-5 and Cly-6 and driven off the exhaust cam? Do not understand your post other than....yes Diesel and "gas" engines share same architecture. Oldsmobile did that in the 80's....did not work out so well. Diesel pressures vs gas very different.
This is more of an Exorcism of an Engine than an a teardown. Parts popping off is like demons leaving the unit. Awesome content, this is however crazy lol.
This is the perfect engine to take apart in the backyard. I can envision it now hunting around half the time for "some damn thing that just went flying off". Apparently the Germans are still planting mines just in engines now.
I think if you remove the Valvetronic motor from the side of the head, it will relieve the tension from those springs. On the N52/54/55 there is an allen head on the back of the Valvetronic motor you turn to release the tension before removal.
I ve seen the affects of hydro locking years ago on a Dodge v6 that a mechanic friend was working on in his shop. Seems as though a mutual friends daughter drove through standing water after a flash flood with the family Caravan. I couldn’t believe how one of the con rods was twisted and snapped two like playdough! So it was no surprise when you discovered that number five con rod was probably damaged by ingesting water. Love the video, and also glad to hear it was operator error, not a design flaw. As a BMW fan I was relieved, because I would love to have a Bimmer with this motor!
Super cool teardown man, I love your sense of humor and i'm pretty sure I might have watched every single engine teardown you've done, keep it up man love the channel Edit: I died laughing at those self removing camshafts
The hydrolock explains it well. I'm surprised it ruined the crankshaft, as Papadakis and Aasbo use a stock one in their FD Supra engine, pushing over 1k whp if I'm not mistaken. After seeing the block take the brunt of that incident and not destroy everything, I'm further sold on that platform.
Why, WHY is this channel so freaking satisfying to watch?!? I just love it. The BMW content is probably not up most people's alley, but that's what my channel is about, both cars and motorcycles. If you ever get a chance to tear down a BMW K1600, I'd love to be there to watch, lol. I'll even help you clean up the leftover pizza and beer. HA! leftover pizza and beer. Yah, not gonna need to clean up THAT... :)
Little tip for getting to the head bolts without taking the valvetronic apart, if you use a wrench to turn the cam you can sometimes get to the head bolts without removing the cam, did it on a b58 a couple months ago because I didn’t wanna take the valvetronic apart and it wasn’t too bad. hope that helps for next time 😁
The B series BMW engines are modular, the petrols and diesels share many components including blocks, timing gear etc. That “idler pulley” is where the chain driven high pressure pump is mounted on the diesels.
Well, that one was action packed!! Between a malevolent chair and and a Beemer motor throwing bits about, you've taken a beating this week. Cant wait for next week already.....👍👍 Seriously, excellent vid. Love ya work.
One thing I noticed was the excess carbon buildup on both the piston remnants and the top of the chamber on the head for #6. The first thing I thought was ECU tune + pump gas and maybe incorrect spark gap leading to detonation. Would be curious (assuming it wasn't bumped) what the gap was on the #6 plug compared to the rest.
Water methanol injection in the chargepipe (: due to having 6 cylinders there is a unefficient distrubution at the backside of the engine (mostly 5 and 6)
@@plane_guy6051 spraying WMI is for cooling of the cylinders / boosting the octane. But if there is a unefficient distrubution, 5&6 are the most far away from spraying point. These cylinders are running lean because they don't receive the requested amount. Temperature's are rising so high that the piston rings expands and hit each other, and break off. Catastrophic damage.
@@plane_guy6051 Port meth is the solution. The design of the B58 inlet manifold isn't ideal for spraying water methanol in the throttle body. For example a N55 inlet manifold is much better suited for WMI because the throttle body is placed in center of the manifold.
Just come across this channel - now binge watching! I've seen similar damage due to LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) issues on a high performance engine variant that I was the chief engineer of back in the day. Lack of evidence of water ingress in other parts of the engine leads me to suspect this could be the causal factor.
@@iAlwaysSpeakTheTruth they were pushing more boost and methanol than what the connecting rod and piston could handle. it's why the first thing P. Doc did was to beef up the internals.
Re that cracked counterbalance: Some of you might have seen those Pakistani workshops which FIX EVERYTHING that comes in broken. They'd just tap it straight; weld the crack, grind it flat enough to clear the rod; bit of a manual balance (maybe); and then pop it back in for another few decades! Saves thousands!
With parts under tension popping out, you should seriously think about wearing safety glasses. Is that damaged block worth anything for its scrap aluminum value?
Yeah, scrap value only, which is unfortunate, as these engines are barely ticking over as far as performance goes, even at their stock 500 hp. You can tune them to make double that, and the block and rotating assembly will handle it just fine.
I didn't get to go to any of the training for the Supra before I left my yoda dealer but seeing the timing moved to the rear definitely lowered my already low expectations of it being a bmw.
@@CoryRwtfyt Thought the same, until you realizes how easy the motor comes out. Not a biggie. Not a lot of them out rolling around, so chances of a catastrophic failure to a vehicle that hasn't been tuned is pretty minimal
@@ryanbrown918 that's fine (but not for your paycheck) when it's under warranty. But that's just extra labor the customer will have to eat down the road. Kinda how it's easier to work on most diesel pickups after you pull the cab off. I swear an engineer would climb over mountain of virgins to fuck a mechanic.
Trivia: the old Subaru engines (EA79 block) had straight cut gears for timing at the back of the motor. With that set up, if you lost timing you had other problems to worry about.
I daily drive one of those. 79 Subaru DL with an 87 JDM EA71S engine. That is the engine for the FJ1600 mini racecar. High compression big cam. Was missing its dual carb intake when I got it so I ported an 81 EA71 intake, made an adapter plate, and attached a Holley 1904 1 bbl carb off a Ford 200 inline 6. Also runs a Denso alternator off a Suzuki Samurai and a GM HEI module for ignition firing a Ford TFI coil and a set of Champion N19V surface gap plugs. All first gen 4 stroke Subaru engines use the gears, from the EA53 to the EA81. The EA82 was the first that did not.
The bmw b58 and the Australian built ford 4.0 Barra would have to be 2 of the best later inline 6 cylinder motors out there. Being there's the lack of evidence of water intrusion I would be leaning towards a severe over boost condition which is what likely caused this failure. When a severe over boost occurs the engine will lean out and also have severe detonation which results in insane cylinder pressure's and with all combined will bend even the strongest of conrods and hypereutectic pistons can break in in many ways due to how brittle they are it's a shame to see this motor in this condition. Awesome video as always mate keep it up 👍
@@CadexLaw I've heard previously from Mr. Richard Holdener that meth injection in charge pipes do not distribute evenly to cylinders which could certainly cause what is seen here. Without the meth getting to the cylinder the heat could close the ring gap and break the piston and the rod.
And why I enjoy watching a person taking a part a engine I will never know. But I really like the sound the air gun makes when he speeds up the video, sounds like laser guns.
@@Dunkaroos248 a severe over boost resulting in lean conditions and detonation will bend rods like wet paper straw's. I pulled a motor down from a ford falcon xr6 turbo that the owner accidentally put the boost controller lines for the waste gate on back the front and it hit well over 30 psi (full throttle and he realized something wasn't right he immediately let off and as he looked over at the gauge it was just coming back past 30 psi) it almost folded no2 rod in half the piston underwent a weight reduction via the cranks counter weights and bent the rods in cyl 5 and cyl 3 were slightly bent. Sometimes a simple accident or mechanical failure can result in spectacular damage.
On a binge of your videos and love the new lingo I am learning. Piston McNuggets and engine gravel are new favorite phrases. One idea for the waiting room. Start collecting the engine gravel and fill an old oil pan. Viola, engine gravel zen garden.
Hi I have a question, I looked up the engine for sale and found it for sell new/used in the 5k-8k range si I was wondering where did you find that it retailed for "over 21 grand" (21:33), but great video overall, super interesting to see these being directed for science!
The timing setup, and overall engine design, on this is very similar to the N57/N47 and the timing idler is the same location as the fuel pump on an N57/N47 diesel, and they are known to stretch timing chains... not a simple job on an F15 X5 all wheel drive...
@@GoldenCroc maybe so, and a new tensioner is so nice of them, the cam chain on the one I did was stretched to the point that laid next to a new one, it appeared to have an extra link in the chain, and the tensioner was at full extension and not actually tensioning anything
@@GM-kb8yu Just in case you are unaware, they also control the condition of the chains, and change them if necessary at the same time. As for the engines that broke earlier than they could have this control/service done, BMW should have to pay up if it is shown that everything was used within spec. There are court cases of them having to do so. But this may not be applicable to wherever you are located sadly.
@@GoldenCroc I am aware of the extension of coverage on them, I personally believe that if you’re out of warranty and develop an issue, then it’s not the manufacturers responsibility to fix it, they gave a coverage window, and once out of that, you should take responsibility for the things you own, and in any case, the n57 I fixed was recently purchased by a wholesaler who got screwed buying this vehicle that needed chains, and then being quoted 8-10k to repair it, I did the job at my house for a total of 4500, so everyone wins, except of course whoever sold the car at an extreme discount because of the death rattle that the engine was making
@@GM-kb8yu Good for you that you fixed it, though I must say in my opinion the warranty on engines for example should be mandatory to be longer for factory defects/design flaws that can lead to catastrophic failure, or else cars will be even more disposable than they already are. Not everyone has your know-how to fix them. But again, good for you. Cheers.
Comedy gold. Making fun of yourself and your mistakes is much better than trying to blame someone else or hiding it. Very much enjoy watching you....and as always.....keep yer stick on the ice.
That "mystery" chain is the lower timing chain. It is driven from the crankshaft and drives an intermediate sprocket, which in turn drives the upper timing chain.
The B58 is possibly one of the best 6 cylinder engines on the market today. Even with stock parts 500 - 600 hp is possible without problems with larger turbos and software optimizations.
That other sprocket is for a high pressure fuel pump on the diesel b57, its the same block so they put a "sprocket" like an idler pulley if you will in place where the cp4.2 pump would sit in the gas engine. You can use that block and convert it to a b57 with the diesel head and diesel rotating assembly.
Ha!!! Reminds me of an incident a few years ago when I was living on the Delmar Loop. I was walking home from the little farmers market on a cold and very wet early afternoon when this douche nozzle comes speeding up Skinker in one of those BMWs and he purposefully pulled over to hit this huge icy puddle blowing water all over me, down the inside of my coat, soaking me and laughing his ass off until his car came screaming to a stop on the other side of Delmar with a noisy hydro lock. And there he sat as I walked by laughing my ass off. major CARma.
So, a year ago, Miami had deluge of a rain storm and the Local News showed video from west side of South Beach and a brand new black BMW 3 series had water up to the windows(!), hazards on and a girl trying to push the car. Thinking that’s your “Donor Engine” right there!!
The rear timing setup is def a German thing. The Ford Cologne V6 Explorer/Ranger engines have the exact same setup. A nightmare when it breaks. They also have german Etorx fasteners. The older OHV one from them was extremely reliable though.
Pretty entertaining when the engine attacks you for disassembling it. On another note, if the timing on the back of the engine annoys you then you should find yourself a 3.7 I5 from a Colorado or Canyon. It has timing on the front and balance shafts on the back. As a tech doing a complete timing chain job is an absolute PITA. Especially when you have to disassemble the top end of the motor just to get to one single bolt to get the timing cover off.
No actually. there's just a simple purely mechanical tool to remove each VVL spring then the rest is completely normal, regular caps and shafts. though there is an extra shaft in the middle. You can see in Papadakis Racing's reassembly video.
@@nferraro222 The actual cam is an integral part of the interference fit of the whole thing, with the valve spring doung duble duty as both the final locking clamp and the spring tensioner for the intermediate rockers. Still need specialty tool to install the VVL springs, a tool to lock the cams at TDC and finally one to hold two of the exhaust valves open in cylinder 5 during assembly. All are just simple hand tools with minimal machining complexity though, so they shouldn't be outrageously expensive. And the work itself isn't particularly fiddly, there's just a little more work to be done because of more bits.
@@nferraro222 I wouldn't call the overall design good or bad per se.. just a fact of life if you want to work on that engine (alongside the need for a 2-post lift if you like your sanity when pulling the engine out)
@@ZeDestructor00 I've lived that:) I don't know any modern engines, but when Ford came out with the 4.6 modular DOHC in '93, you should've heard the howling from the old-school guys (I guess that's me now) about how horrific they were to work on. Not really - they were just very different from regular American V8's.
Timing built into the back has to do with the long crank and harmonics. The flywheel at the rear helps provide the cams with power minus the harmonic signals. Furthermore that also reduces the torque forces on the crank to that are behind harmonics. That in turn permits a lighter crankshaft...
I’m impressed with the engineering of this engine. I especially like the chain tensioner design that threads into the side. Makes more sense than just having 2 little 10mm bolts holding it on.. Even though rods and crank were damaged the designs look really sturdy, right down to that big ol lower girdle thing B58 ftw 🙌
Yesterday I watched a video of this engine being assembled at the factory, today it disassembled in Missouri. Can't beat that. Thanks Eric.
Great job as usual! I was a tech for 37 years and now teach Auto Tech at the same community college I attended from 1980-1982. I teach engine repair and your adventure of flying parts is just another day during a lab. Valve keepers are the number one UFOs in the shop.
The crank has to turn 2:1 to the cam. The reduction at the idler allows some of the reduction to be done there and the cam sprocket to be smaller. I worked at a VW dealer from 94-97. The VR-6 engine used the same tech. I read about it in a VW intro manual and VW bragged about how they were able to reduce the width of the cylinder head by 100mm (about 4 inches) so they could put the engine in smaller cars. GM also used this on the 3.4L. Chain from the crank to the idler and belt from there to the cam sprokets
The location of the timing components is being driven by the insurance industry in Europe. In the US we have the IIHS that issues safety ratings. In Europe, they have Euro NCAP. Euro NCAP figures in pedestrian injuries as part of their ratings. The ratings are used by insurance industry to set insurance rates for vehicles. When a pedestrian is hit by a car, they often end up on the hood of the car. If there is space between the hood and engine and hood does not hit the engine as it is being crushed, the pedestrian suffers less injury. By putting the timing components in the back of the engine (with the corresponding "hump") there can be more space between the engine and hood. MB does this on their hoods. We get the hood hinges to do it here in the US, but not the pyrotechnic actuators the Euro cars have. We will soon have this tech in the US. Buried deep in the recently passed Infrastructure Bill is language that directs DOT to start the process of setting standards similar to Euro NCAP. There is a lot more of this stuff in the Bill as well
MB came out with a 4 cylinder diesel in the 2010-2020 time frame with the chains on the back. I worked at a MB dealer from 2013-2016 and we had to have a $3500.00 engine stand because of that motor. The engine attached to a frame where the motor mounts were that connected to the engine stand. The crankshaft was 90 degrees to the axis of the stand. The engine was rotated by a geared hand that move it end over end to get to bottom and top of the engine for repairs.
Sounds kind of sarcastic as there are not much pedestrians in US 🤣
Wonderful! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience, and writing it up so well. 👍
Thank you, some great info there.
Putting timing components in the back also contributes to the coffers of the shop doing a timing chain replacement. My 3.6 GM engine in RWD configuration allows the timing chain replacement with the engine still installed. Just requires removing the accessories and the engine front cover.
Thank you for sharing this info. I was not aware of much of this.
You could tear apart a lawnmower engine and I’d tune in. There’s something oddly satisfying watching these auto autopsies!!
You mean like a Mitsubishi 3B30? My "smart" car is offended.
I kinda hope he does tear down a lawnmower engine
I have a Toro that broke its connecting rod. (At least, that's what it sound like.)
I'd send it in to him gratis, but I think it died because of oil starvation, and I don't want to look like an idiot, lol. (The lawnmower was 25+ years old, so it could have just been plain tired...)
When I’m watching my wife gives me a funny look and asks, is that actually interesting? Of course!
That would be a really short video.
I do believe this is the first engine that has attacked you on camera.
Must've talked to the chair.
All of the parts flying off this engine are of the very finest German manufacture.
@@CathyInBlue HAHAH
It looked like the timing chain tensioner attempted a nut shot.
@@CathyInBlue this engine was actually designed under the supervision of Toyota. Due to their exacting standards, BMW almost pulled out of their partnership. I work for a company that is based in Germany (I’m in the US though). I have had chances to see how the Germans engineer things and let me tell you, it is strange and definitely not designed for longevity. Due to the way that the way the German workforce is structured, I wouldn’t be surprised if this isn’t just isolated to the industry I work in.
A lot if not most of the gasket issues in BMW’s were realized after BMW changed to an O/C interval of 15k. They have since revised that down to 10k, but enthusiasts who take care of their vehicles change the oil every 5k-7.5k. These engines will last a LONG time if you take care of them.
Absolutely 100% agreed. Only morons will adhere to the extended change intervals of oil and coolant. Does anyone remember GM NorthStar engines? Intervals set at 100000 miles? used in some Cads and Olds, maybe others. They turned out to be a disaster when not getting their Oil and Coolant changed. That engine supposedly could run for a long time without coolant even. VERY BAD IDEA. Do yourselves a favor, and let me give my two cents worth of knowledge (having worked in the oil and gas industry for quite a while) Oil, wether synthetic or mineral, all come out of a hole in the ground. The difference on the synthetic oil is additives and monodispersed balls (also known as the Uglestad balls after the nowegian inventors name "Uglestad") They are really microscopic uniform polymer particles, perfectly spherical, and acts like ball bearings. (invented for use in medical research at first, but other industries like oil caught on) They were a revolution when released on the market, and Mobil1 containes these to this date. This is why Synthetic Mobil1 is probably the best motoroil you can get. I would guess others followed up but Mobil1 was first in the mid 80's. I've never had motor problems with oil, but I fastidiously cahnge it every 7-8k miles.
15k? Mate in europe it‘s even more
Miles, not kilometers
Nah, the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gaskets on the N engines will leak regardless of interval. I've seen it on N55s with 40k miles and 5k changes. It has little to do with the OCI unfortunately and everything to do with the material and thermal cycling.
@@chrisbradley3224 I have an N20 428 with 140k and no leaks and no issues
That “timing idler” is a speed step down pulley. Probably 1.5x speed reduction based on sprocket size. This allows the cam sprockets to be smaller than if they were driven directly off the crank. This helps with packaging and allows the cams to be closer to each other, but based on the valve angles these cams are spaced far apart from each other.
Excellent! Thank you!
Strange, it adds so much to the side of the motor. Germans and their overthinking leads to some terribly unfriendly designs. "Peak" BMW ICE motors make me yearn for our electric future.
@@Fearls1 they use the same block for diesel engines and the fuel pump is mounted on the reverse side. Pretty clever really.
@@Fearls1 electric sucks and is lame
Thats the high pressure fuel pump
Thank you. Good to know this failure was caused by human error and not poor engineering
B58 is one of the greatest 6 cylinders ever made. Really enjoyed seeing this teardown.
M50 was indestructable tbh.
@@pauliusbu1185 thats because is also slow as shit. just like old merc engines, bullet proof because they were slow as shit
Wtf are you serious? The V6 in c43 is stronger ..more torque more hp..and insane sound..so does V6 f type..rb26,2jz are insane..b58 is a better city quiet engine..b58 is only tuner friendly that's it
@@commantrosexetlos4700 its superior to other gas 6 engines. reliable, smooth, tons of power everywhere and real economy. extremely good efficiency for a 6 cylinder
@@hotdog9262 it's one of the best engines I agree..but as tuning goes and racing..rb26 i6..best ever ..they took her 3000whp..b58 is amazing city engine..low down torque mid and top
In 1980, I was stationed in the Army in Germany, our Squad leader bought BMW 300 with a blown engine. Be bought another engine from a scrap yard. He convinced two of us to help him remove the old engine and put in the new one. Got the new one almost in (and this is two guys with 60 inch pry bars holding it up) into position and it was the wrong bell housing. So, we had to pull the new engine out, and swap out the bell housings. and finally got that puppy in.
Did I mention it was March, in Bavaria, and had a light drizzle that turned into ice?
We got a PX pizza and a six pack of American beer out of it.
I saw him taking the cam caps off first and I was thinking "hmmm... how is THAT going to work out?" Well, about as well as I expected, but that only adds to the charm and character of these videos! 😃
Most of these I find extremely interesting and (oddly) relaxing. This one? The "accelerated disassembly" portions had me chuckling,, and thankful that as frustrating as it possibly was, that you weren't hurt. By the engine at least. We just won't talk about the argument with the chair
“Sprong!!!”
What chair?
For future reference , in case you want to showcase that style of valvetronic. There’s an Allen on the face of the valvetronic motor that will turn the e-shaft to full operation or no operation
I can't even imagine the carnage if that counterbalance had come off the crank at 6000 rpm when the rod let go.
Send that puppy in space so damn quick fast and in a hurry, it would make Elon jealous.
how though?
Counterbalance in an in-line 6?
The beauty of such an engine is that doesn’t need a counterbalance.
(Edit: my bad it was the counterbalance of the crankshaft)
@@Conservator. think hes refering to the counter weights on the crankshaft. You can see its badly cracked at 18:10
@@Lynxtro Ah, I see now 🤦♂️ Thank you!
Valvetronic is extra difficult to take apart. The springs can be really dangerous as you've seen. I once had a spring unleash its tension on my thumb, it survived but it was not nice. If you want to work on valvetronic engines that should run after working on them really do get the proper tools.
Holy fuck I could not imagine how bad that hurt, Im a BMW and im always nervous when im working on the valvetronic springs.
I'm a bmw tech and I have seen a few of these engine self destruct like this due to sucking up water.
Also, I'm pretty sure the extra timing chain in the back of the engine is for either a vacuum pump or a high pressure fuel pump on diesels. These blocks are based off the B series diesels which proceeded it.
HPFP on M57, which this exact design was based on just in the front. I am rebuilding a M57 now. M57 much easier as far as the head is concerned, solid gears on the cams and no valvetronic.
@@igotaction this is a very different block then a M57 my man, in fact there is very little in common
I'd wager water ingestion, also. The only B58 I've seen with catastrophic bottom end damage was due to water. The shape of the manifold, the trajectory of intake air flow and the fact that there's no air-to-air intercooler low down on the front of the engine for the water to pool makes it all get pulled right into #6.
ooo really? I was going to guess the water came from intercooler (water to air) that leaked into an intake.
@@aimless-drifter it would have had to been sudden, catastrophic failure of that intercooler for that volume of coolant to cause that level of damage. Also (depending on where the leak and the intercooler would have sprung) it wouldn't necessarily affect #6 primarily followed by #5, as would be logically explained by an incoming mass of water up the charge pipe.
This was a cool teardown love the explosions. These autopsies on these engines keep us guessing till the issue is found. Thank you very much for another awesome video. 😀🇨🇦
They're no fun when they happen on things you plan to put back together without a manual. :-(
#5 valves looked like they may have had a steam clean. Always a clue.
I love watching these videos, they remind me of my apprenticeship days at Roots motors. Started out stripping and cleaning the engines and transmissions ready for the mechanics to work on. Then being transferred through the departments, six months on trucks, six months on service, six months body shop. Then finally I found my place in the toolroom. Looking back they were happy days.
Similar to me I started out doing service for six months, then alignment for six, then found my place doing body work. Only shop I ever worked at but I'm glad they did everything in one shop. I learned a lot and miss working on beautiful cars everyday but I left the industry for a business opportunity, only thing I don't miss is the bondo dust
Just drove my B58 100+ miles today…interesting to see what it actually looks like 👍🏻
@MachineGunIt either the new supra or the bmw z4
@MachineGunIt my X3 M40i has one too.
Or the 2016 and up 740i
I really enjoyed these replies, we have a beautiful Manhattan Green X5 and absolutely love this vehicle…
Wife has a 22’ M440 IX drop top. Beautiful car and an awesome motor
I've binged watched a few of Eric's engine tear-down videos now, and the message that is coming across is: Don't deffer maintenance and change your engine oil in accordance with the manufactures recommendations! - If you don't follow these simple rules YOUR engine could end up in his workshop.
I haven't watched the video yet, but I wanted to thank you for these teardowns. They provoked me into checking on my own car.
I was low on oil and overdue for a change, so I took care of both just yesterday.
Rule #1 of car ownership (For those who have internal combustion engines) Always stay on top of your Oil changes and that is a indicator your car burns oil so keep an eye on how much it's burning if it's burning more than a quart (A small bottle of Engine oil) between your oil changes then your could have an issue with your seals or Gaskets. Every 3 months change your oil or if your drive alot general Rule of thumb is every 5000 kms (or 3000 Miles roughly) You can go a bit longer with Synthetic oil.
@@thegreatcanadianlumberjack5307 Yeah... I had a completely missed oil change (naughty I know!) and was just under minimum, so about a quart down. Seems pretty average burn rate for a car of its age and mileage, though I'll watch it more closely to make sure I don't have a problem. And more importantly, actually change my darn oil on time!
I drive so little that 5k (hybrid car, so engine has reduced load, manufacturer recommends 5k instead of 3k) goes by in a year's span or so.
If you have a bmw you can check the oil level in the car in 5 seconds.
This was a good one. These engines are stout and make 500hp with E85 and the newer TU HPFP. That coating they have on the bearings looks really good, might not have rod bearing issues like you occasionally see on the N55s.
ye idk why n55e had that issue i dont see it much on the n54, considering they use the same bearings
@@BmwMe-uh9sy I guess it's the cranks fault
The n5t is the engine from the m5 e6p right
@@joelrolo1915 no
@@BmwMe-uh9sy n55* ?
Never underestimate a wife's chair throwing skills.
I'm happy to inform you I am your 69th upvote. Nice.
Throwing chair is better than porcelain plates flying towards you! 😢😅
Nice teardown and analysis. I own a M240i B58 myself and i love it. Best and most reliable engine ive ever owned.
Which isn't saying much
@fzr1000 well its reliable enough for toyota to put it in their supra..... says enough for me
Just imagine the fun putting one of these back together !
I own one so I'm really hoping that's not in my future 😂
Bicycle time.
@@BSed31 Keep it as it is and you will be fine 😉
I was really surprised how small those cylinder bores were in comparison to the block. Really thick block walls. I bet that thing is made to handle a lot of boost. Too bad it didn't help this time.
Yeap, probably was the tune.
@@aero5937 B58s are quite stout
I think papdakis racing is making over 1000hp on a stock block b58. Twas a pretty porky block the b58 got
The walls between the cylinders are rather small though. Stuff breaks were it is thinnest.
@@humphrey09applebee61 Still seems to hold up well though! It's a pretty impressive platform, especially considering this isn't even the top spec motor for this generation.
Like you videos! No joke, these motors coast a fortune. My uncle’s 2013 bmw 535i hydro-locked too (he drove through a small puddle of water, nothing too big according to him..) and insurance foot the bill which was over $22k. BMW installed new engine etc…I end up buying it from him down the road 😀
BMW = Broke My Wallet.
That 2013 would have been an n55 not a b58 but yes bmw engines are mad expensive lol
@@m7machines738 yes it was an N55…I just meant to say that back then for that motor it cost $22k-ish to replace
As someone who has also won and lost fights against furniture, walls, doors etc., I won't ask what happened. Hope you heal up fully and keep the videos coming
By the way , the red stuff on the upper conrod bearing is a wear resistant coat meant to make them withstand the oil starvation that can be caused by repeated use of the stop start system.Also interesting is that they moved away from the bedplate design
I’ve always wondered if the stop-start system you see on new cars was detrimental to the engine, now I know it can be and how they’re engineered to mitigate any problems with the motor.
@@mvfc7637exactly!!!!! and whats crazy is the newest bmw models don’t even come with the old button to disable the feature 💀
Thanks for this video on the b58, I think it’s the best bmw engine to come out in a long time, it looks to be built like a tank. A guy locally is running one tuned to 500+ hp and has methane injection and some bolt ons, he has had zero issues in the last two years/45k
S58 is a far superior engine, do the research
s58 sounds like a turd
@@fzr1000981which is based on the b58
@@fzr1000981it is not a far superior engine they both are really solid motors. S58 is just a little better but that’s because it was made to handle more power than the b58 from factory. It should be better at handling power than the b58. It’s superior because of its purpose over the b58.
Good to know that you were pleased with this engine overall, I was really interested in this one because the B58 seems to be a much more reliable powerplant from BMW, compared to years past, but it was great to see a teardown like this. Thanks for the upload!
BMW has rewllly really taken away the criticism from n54 and n55 to heart
As a Retired Technician, I enjoy watching 👀 you tear down the motors. Trouble shooting for the failure was one thing I that fascinated me. I told my Wife what I was watching 👀, she said "WHAT?". Yes I'll keep watching. Thanks for taking the time from your work to make these videos. 😲👍
That timing chain design including the crank pulley/vibration dampener is identical to the M57 3.0 diesel. N54/55 have cartridge rail for the chain. This is much easier to time and avoids the old crank hub slippage. Where the idler pulley is on B58 is where the diesel HPFP is located.
very interesting. But why would BMW add the chain on a gas engine? Seems like extra parts not needed for an inherently balanced engine. Also adds costs and rotating mass.
Curious.
Mr. P
HPFP = High Pressure Fuel Pump
@@machtschnell7452
Hello Macht Schnell,
For Gasoline engines, is the HPFP not driven off the exhaust cam between cyl 5 and 6?
I am not familiar with the B58, but do see what looks like a mount for the HPFP pump.
@@LSmiata In BMW's new engine family, the crankcase is identical to the B57 diesel version, engineered as both a gasoline and diesel engine in one common part...kvg
@@jannehokkanen8175
What is kvg?
High Pressure Fuel Pump not located between Cly-5 and Cly-6 and driven off the exhaust cam? Do not understand your post other than....yes Diesel and "gas" engines share same architecture. Oldsmobile did that in the 80's....did not work out so well. Diesel pressures vs gas very different.
As an owner of a B58 engine in my G30 BMW this was very interesting. Keep up the good work.
This is more of an Exorcism of an Engine than an a teardown. Parts popping off is like demons leaving the unit. Awesome content, this is however crazy lol.
N52 all the way!! My 15 year old Z4 is a 2.5 straight 6 and has never given me a problem in the 8 years I've owned it.
The N52 is bulletproof.
This is the perfect engine to take apart in the backyard. I can envision it now hunting around half the time for "some damn thing that just went flying off". Apparently the Germans are still planting mines just in engines now.
I think if you remove the Valvetronic motor from the side of the head, it will relieve the tension from those springs. On the N52/54/55 there is an allen head on the back of the Valvetronic motor you turn to release the tension before removal.
FYI, Inline 6 engines don't require a balance shaft due to their almost perfect balance of primary and secondary forces.
I ve seen the affects of hydro locking years ago on a Dodge v6 that a mechanic friend was working on in his shop. Seems as though a mutual friends daughter drove through standing water after a flash flood with the family Caravan. I couldn’t believe how one of the con rods was twisted and snapped two like playdough! So it was no surprise when you discovered that number five con rod was probably damaged by ingesting water.
Love the video, and also glad to hear it was operator error, not a design flaw.
As a BMW fan I was relieved, because I would love to have a Bimmer with this motor!
Super cool teardown man, I love your sense of humor and i'm pretty sure I might have watched every single engine teardown you've done, keep it up man love the channel
Edit: I died laughing at those self removing camshafts
Great job in diagnosing that disaster, I never would have guessed that was what happened to that engine
The hydrolock explains it well. I'm surprised it ruined the crankshaft, as Papadakis and Aasbo use a stock one in their FD Supra engine, pushing over 1k whp if I'm not mistaken. After seeing the block take the brunt of that incident and not destroy everything, I'm further sold on that platform.
The hydro locking didn't break the counterbalancer; the rod/piston getting wedged between the counterbalancer and the main did that.
Why, WHY is this channel so freaking satisfying to watch?!? I just love it. The BMW content is probably not up most people's alley, but that's what my channel is about, both cars and motorcycles. If you ever get a chance to tear down a BMW K1600, I'd love to be there to watch, lol. I'll even help you clean up the leftover pizza and beer. HA! leftover pizza and beer. Yah, not gonna need to clean up THAT... :)
These tear down videos are so great, I find myself rewatching old ones while you upload a new one!
Classic BMW. Reliable, not overpriced. 11/10 will be. I enjoy.
Little tip for getting to the head bolts without taking the valvetronic apart, if you use a wrench to turn the cam you can sometimes get to the head bolts without removing the cam, did it on a b58 a couple months ago because I didn’t wanna take the valvetronic apart and it wasn’t too bad. hope that helps for next time 😁
Thanks got to take crank out of one next week , big end and rod knackered
The B series BMW engines are modular, the petrols and diesels share many components including blocks, timing gear etc. That “idler pulley” is where the chain driven high pressure pump is mounted on the diesels.
Well, that one was action packed!! Between a malevolent chair and and a Beemer motor throwing bits about, you've taken a beating this week. Cant wait for next week already.....👍👍 Seriously, excellent vid. Love ya work.
These are great, the BMW inline 6 teardowns really show the generational difference between the N55 and B58. Thanks!
One thing I noticed was the excess carbon buildup on both the piston remnants and the top of the chamber on the head for #6. The first thing I thought was ECU tune + pump gas and maybe incorrect spark gap leading to detonation. Would be curious (assuming it wasn't bumped) what the gap was on the #6 plug compared to the rest.
I did notice the carbon buildup..did seem something was off from a very basic standpoint
Water methanol injection in the chargepipe (: due to having 6 cylinders there is a unefficient distrubution at the backside of the engine (mostly 5 and 6)
@@clubsportf56s48 yup that’s what I thought too as soon as I saw it was 5 & 6.
@@plane_guy6051 spraying WMI is for cooling of the cylinders / boosting the octane. But if there is a unefficient distrubution, 5&6 are the most far away from spraying point. These cylinders are running lean because they don't receive the requested amount. Temperature's are rising so high that the piston rings expands and hit each other, and break off. Catastrophic damage.
@@plane_guy6051 Port meth is the solution. The design of the B58 inlet manifold isn't ideal for spraying water methanol in the throttle body. For example a N55 inlet manifold is much better suited for WMI because the throttle body is placed in center of the manifold.
Just come across this channel - now binge watching! I've seen similar damage due to LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) issues on a high performance engine variant that I was the chief engineer of back in the day. Lack of evidence of water ingress in other parts of the engine leads me to suspect this could be the causal factor.
You gotta love a camshaft that uninstalls itself. 👍
Self clearing
@@clifbradley Self-clearancing pistons is going up right next to mechanicly regapped spark-plugs. This channel is doing wonders for my vocabulary.
I'm good with automatic uninstall camshaft. Provided I'm not driving it at the time.
The cam chain tensioner firing off into the distance barely missing you and your gentleman's area was hilarious.
The plunger made a hilarious sound in the slow motion clip.
my 440i is on BM3 stage 2. Scary seeing damage like this, but seems people comfortably tune their B58's way above my current 450bhp
This engine failed due to a chargepipe installed methanol injection kit, due to the intake manifold design cylinders 5 & 6 tend to blow.
Not everyone that smokes cigarettes gets lung cancer. What’s your point?
@@iAlwaysSpeakTheTruth they were pushing more boost and methanol than what the connecting rod and piston could handle. it's why the first thing P. Doc did was to beef up the internals.
Re that cracked counterbalance:
Some of you might have seen those Pakistani workshops which FIX EVERYTHING that comes in broken. They'd just tap it straight; weld the crack, grind it flat enough to clear the rod; bit of a manual balance (maybe); and then pop it back in for another few decades! Saves thousands!
We need to see the tear down of the chair that attacked you! 🤣
I was expecting him to double up when that chain tensioner piston popped out. Looked like it might hit some easily damaged equipment....
@@jfan4reva that's assault!
Brother I lmao the couch when the unplanned cam bounced out. Good shit.
With parts under tension popping out, you should seriously think about wearing safety glasses. Is that damaged block worth anything for its scrap aluminum value?
Yeah, scrap value only, which is unfortunate, as these engines are barely ticking over as far as performance goes, even at their stock 500 hp. You can tune them to make double that, and the block and rotating assembly will handle it just fine.
I was thinking injector failure (stuck open) on #6 until the point where Rodney #5 went on a bender
Very cool! Tore one of these down when I went to Toyota GR Supra Training. Very impressive engine.
I didn't get to go to any of the training for the Supra before I left my yoda dealer but seeing the timing moved to the rear definitely lowered my already low expectations of it being a bmw.
@@CoryRwtfyt Thought the same, until you realizes how easy the motor comes out. Not a biggie. Not a lot of them out rolling around, so chances of a catastrophic failure to a vehicle that hasn't been tuned is pretty minimal
@@ryanbrown918 Even without a 2-post lift and hydraulic lift table?
@@ryanbrown918 that's fine (but not for your paycheck) when it's under warranty. But that's just extra labor the customer will have to eat down the road. Kinda how it's easier to work on most diesel pickups after you pull the cab off.
I swear an engineer would climb over mountain of virgins to fuck a mechanic.
@@CoryRwtfyt Now that's funny!
Just bought a B58 Beamer. Nice video and definitely won’t be going through any water
Trivia: the old Subaru engines (EA79 block) had straight cut gears for timing at the back of the motor. With that set up, if you lost timing you had other problems to worry about.
Honda VFR interceptor v4 engines also had cam gears, except the later versions.
I daily drive one of those. 79 Subaru DL with an 87 JDM EA71S engine. That is the engine for the FJ1600 mini racecar. High compression big cam. Was missing its dual carb intake when I got it so I ported an 81 EA71 intake, made an adapter plate, and attached a Holley 1904 1 bbl carb off a Ford 200 inline 6. Also runs a Denso alternator off a Suzuki Samurai and a GM HEI module for ignition firing a Ford TFI coil and a set of Champion N19V surface gap plugs. All first gen 4 stroke Subaru engines use the gears, from the EA53 to the EA81. The EA82 was the first that did not.
Love the little 'bloop' as the tensioner piston went visiting
The first explosion would definitely make me wear safety glasses before continuing...
also helps agains chairs..
That could also be a fuel hydrolock right? Seems like the BMW DI engines have an issue with stuck injectors.
Always enjoy your tear downs! This block could see life as a cool coffee table. It even has extra holes you could do some cool lighting with. 😜
doing this exact thing with this exact block lol its perfect
@@corsacaleb Awesome! Hope it turns out well!
Eric I just watched this video for the first time. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do more engines you haven't worked on before, this was hysterical!
Finally. I'm running so much boost on mine
I’m assuming it had a leaking charge air cooler. The coolant leaked into the chamber from the integral CAC intake manifold and just chomped. Cool vid!
The bmw b58 and the Australian built ford 4.0 Barra would have to be 2 of the best later inline 6 cylinder motors out there. Being there's the lack of evidence of water intrusion I would be leaning towards a severe over boost condition which is what likely caused this failure.
When a severe over boost occurs the engine will lean out and also have severe detonation which results in insane cylinder pressure's and with all combined will bend even the strongest of conrods and hypereutectic pistons can break in in many ways due to how brittle they are it's a shame to see this motor in this condition. Awesome video as always mate keep it up 👍
It was a meth injection kit placed in the chargepipe. Seen this happen a few times, it’s always 5 & 6 that blow.
@@CadexLaw I've heard previously from Mr. Richard Holdener that meth injection in charge pipes do not distribute evenly to cylinders which could certainly cause what is seen here. Without the meth getting to the cylinder the heat could close the ring gap and break the piston and the rod.
This is the funniest of all the channels I've subscribed to! Parts flying is fun!
That was entertaining watching parts fly off the engine! 😂
And why I enjoy watching a person taking a part a engine I will never know. But I really like the sound the air gun makes when he speeds up the video, sounds like laser guns.
This b58 must have had a spicy tune to throw a piston like that.
I said same, that thing ran lean and last cylinder on the rail ate it. If it sucked up floodwater there would be corrosion.
Yeah, water in the intake tune
Bootmod3 strikes again lol
With a bad tune I think you’d see the piston only explode, not a bent rod like it had on #5. I’m siding with Eric on this one.
@@Dunkaroos248 a severe over boost resulting in lean conditions and detonation will bend rods like wet paper straw's.
I pulled a motor down from a ford falcon xr6 turbo that the owner accidentally put the boost controller lines for the waste gate on back the front and it hit well over 30 psi (full throttle and he realized something wasn't right he immediately let off and as he looked over at the gauge it was just coming back past 30 psi) it almost folded no2 rod in half the piston underwent a weight reduction via the cranks counter weights and bent the rods in cyl 5 and cyl 3 were slightly bent. Sometimes a simple accident or mechanical failure can result in spectacular damage.
On a binge of your videos and love the new lingo I am learning. Piston McNuggets and engine gravel are new favorite phrases. One idea for the waiting room. Start collecting the engine gravel and fill an old oil pan. Viola, engine gravel zen garden.
Gotta love the DIY nose job you performed. Just asking for a friend, was this a wheeled of non-wheeled chair
so grateful i found your chanel,as i 'm an engine guy your videos are so satisfying.
Hi I have a question, I looked up the engine for sale and found it for sell new/used in the 5k-8k range si I was wondering where did you find that it retailed for "over 21 grand" (21:33), but great video overall, super interesting to see these being directed for science!
That timing system is a variation of the systems used to control valve timing on steam locomotives dating back 160 years ago.
The timing setup, and overall engine design, on this is very similar to the N57/N47 and the timing idler is the same location as the fuel pump on an N57/N47 diesel, and they are known to stretch timing chains... not a simple job on an F15 X5 all wheel drive...
Nx7 oil change interval is too long. On the other hand they at least change the timing chain tensioner for free.
@@GoldenCroc maybe so, and a new tensioner is so nice of them, the cam chain on the one I did was stretched to the point that laid next to a new one, it appeared to have an extra link in the chain, and the tensioner was at full extension and not actually tensioning anything
@@GM-kb8yu Just in case you are unaware, they also control the condition of the chains, and change them if necessary at the same time.
As for the engines that broke earlier than they could have this control/service done, BMW should have to pay up if it is shown that everything was used within spec. There are court cases of them having to do so. But this may not be applicable to wherever you are located sadly.
@@GoldenCroc I am aware of the extension of coverage on them, I personally believe that if you’re out of warranty and develop an issue, then it’s not the manufacturers responsibility to fix it, they gave a coverage window, and once out of that, you should take responsibility for the things you own, and in any case, the n57 I fixed was recently purchased by a wholesaler who got screwed buying this vehicle that needed chains, and then being quoted 8-10k to repair it, I did the job at my house for a total of 4500, so everyone wins, except of course whoever sold the car at an extreme discount because of the death rattle that the engine was making
@@GM-kb8yu Good for you that you fixed it, though I must say in my opinion the warranty on engines for example should be mandatory to be longer for factory defects/design flaws that can lead to catastrophic failure, or else cars will be even more disposable than they already are.
Not everyone has your know-how to fix them.
But again, good for you. Cheers.
Comedy gold. Making fun of yourself and your mistakes is much better than trying to blame someone else or hiding it. Very much enjoy watching you....and as always.....keep yer stick on the ice.
That "mystery" chain is the lower timing chain. It is driven from the crankshaft and drives an intermediate sprocket, which in turn drives the upper timing chain.
This was very satisfying. Especially the analysis at the end. I did not know hydrolock on a cylinder was a thing.
The chair hired this engine to work your nose over again. 🤣
I can see this video quickly jump up in views since this is the current Supra's engine.
Learned a lot about my engine in my bmw. Awesome info. Thanks
The B58 is possibly one of the best 6 cylinder engines on the market today. Even with stock parts 500 - 600 hp is possible without problems with larger turbos and software optimizations.
Definitely Top 5 in the B58 C/D version. The Alfa 2.9 is up there, as is the Porsche 2.9.
The engine wanted to make you work for it! Fun teardown, thanks for sharing!
When it breaks, do you know what BMW stands for?
Brought More Wallet
Bring Money Willingly
Barter My Wife?
@@heinrichgerhardt6119 hehehe
@@johnfox3845 heheehe
That other sprocket is for a high pressure fuel pump on the diesel b57, its the same block so they put a "sprocket" like an idler pulley if you will in place where the cp4.2 pump would sit in the gas engine. You can use that block and convert it to a b57 with the diesel head and diesel rotating assembly.
Ha!!! Reminds me of an incident a few years ago when I was living on the Delmar Loop. I was walking home from the little farmers market on a cold and very wet early afternoon when this douche nozzle comes speeding up Skinker in one of those BMWs and he purposefully pulled over to hit this huge icy puddle blowing water all over me, down the inside of my coat, soaking me and laughing his ass off until his car came screaming to a stop on the other side of Delmar with a noisy hydro lock. And there he sat as I walked by laughing my ass off. major CARma.
So, a year ago, Miami had deluge of a rain storm and the Local News showed video from west side of South Beach and a brand new black BMW 3 series had water up to the windows(!), hazards on and a girl trying to push the car. Thinking that’s your “Donor Engine” right there!!
Actually it's kinda fun watching the parts blow off 😂
It's the engine fighting back
6:25 Taking that cam off "BMW explosion says it all" lmbo!!! Great vid man
BMW CEO: Our engines are unreliable but too easy to repair, what can we do?
BMW Engineer: Make them fly apart when taken apart?
BMW CEO: Brilliant!
Nobody thinks a bmw is easy to repair
Yeah if you don’t have the special tools to take it apart lol. Not like your average joe is gonna go in the head taking of camshafts etc.
This engine was probably tuned
@@danielpark7821 engine hydrolocked water damage
The rear timing setup is def a German thing. The Ford Cologne V6 Explorer/Ranger engines have the exact same setup. A nightmare when it breaks. They also have german Etorx fasteners. The older OHV one from them was extremely reliable though.
Pretty entertaining when the engine attacks you for disassembling it. On another note, if the timing on the back of the engine annoys you then you should find yourself a 3.7 I5 from a Colorado or Canyon. It has timing on the front and balance shafts on the back. As a tech doing a complete timing chain job is an absolute PITA. Especially when you have to disassemble the top end of the motor just to get to one single bolt to get the timing cover off.
Wow, that valvetrain looks like a pleasure and a joy to work with. I assume you put a couple of long studs in and draw everything into position?
No actually. there's just a simple purely mechanical tool to remove each VVL spring then the rest is completely normal, regular caps and shafts. though there is an extra shaft in the middle. You can see in Papadakis Racing's reassembly video.
@@ZeDestructor00 ahh, OK. It appeared almost as though the common shaft held all of the components down. That sounds a lot better.
@@nferraro222 The actual cam is an integral part of the interference fit of the whole thing, with the valve spring doung duble duty as both the final locking clamp and the spring tensioner for the intermediate rockers.
Still need specialty tool to install the VVL springs, a tool to lock the cams at TDC and finally one to hold two of the exhaust valves open in cylinder 5 during assembly. All are just simple hand tools with minimal machining complexity though, so they shouldn't be outrageously expensive.
And the work itself isn't particularly fiddly, there's just a little more work to be done because of more bits.
@@nferraro222 I wouldn't call the overall design good or bad per se.. just a fact of life if you want to work on that engine (alongside the need for a 2-post lift if you like your sanity when pulling the engine out)
@@ZeDestructor00 I've lived that:) I don't know any modern engines, but when Ford came out with the 4.6 modular DOHC in '93, you should've heard the howling from the old-school guys (I guess that's me now) about how horrific they were to work on. Not really - they were just very different from regular American V8's.
Timing built into the back has to do with the long crank and harmonics. The flywheel at the rear helps provide the cams with power minus the harmonic signals. Furthermore that also reduces the torque forces on the crank to that are behind harmonics. That in turn permits a lighter crankshaft...
I’m impressed with the engineering of this engine. I especially like the chain tensioner design that threads into the side. Makes more sense than just having 2 little 10mm bolts holding it on..
Even though rods and crank were damaged the designs look really sturdy, right down to that big ol lower girdle thing
B58 ftw 🙌
Why the hell would you design the timing chains into the back of the engine FFS.?
Looks like someone again did a very successful chip tuning 🎉