Main issues to summarise - Loss of shifting between gears could be Solenoids A & B Malfunctioning, this will throw a code! Replacements are easy to obtain and can be had with a filter service kit. Loss of either/both 2nd and 4th - Broken Servo Piston Rod and/or worn Gear Band (usually the piston Rod). Very harsh shifting between 1 & 2 - Broken Accumulator Spring/s. There is another issue of the stator/pump bushings wearing prematurely causing pressure leakage, this stops the Torque Convertor Clutch from engaging in 3rd and 4th. Very unnoticeable apart from worse fuel enconomy than usual on motorway/long distance driving.
Very informative video thanks. Would you happen to have an insight when my focus has no computer error whatsoever. No dtc on transmission or solenoid. But my car moves forward when in Neutral. I have no reverse. It launches but stops at Park, maybe parking pawl engages. At Drive it moves forward normally.
@@kaletsugas thank you sir, how do you mean moves forward in neutral? These gearboxes don't throw many codes it's very rare unless a solenoid has failed. If you have no reverse that's a hydraulic issue, reverse requires way more pressure on the clutches to operate. So if there's any issues with pressure then it would manifest as no reverse first of all. Check the fluid level from hot, drive it take it through all the gears, just hold it in each quadrant. Then check dipstick. What colour is the fluid?
My Focus Mk1 with this box has an issue where sometimes it does what feels like a hard shift, usually when driving slowly so it's going between 1 and 2, and then will go into limp mode. Replaced the valve body along with the solenoids, but still persists. No fault codes on the diagnostic. Any ideas what it might be...? Likely to be the box or something else? Speed sensor? Earth connection?
Hello, dear. My Focus does not shift into fourth gear. Also, the tiptronic does not work. Kicks between 1st and 2nd gear. The oil is almost fresh. The problem began after replacing the fuel pump motor. There, I disconnected the battery terminal several times. And by mistake, I punctured the adsorber tube. And that's it. After which problems with the gearbox began. The mechanics cannot find what the problem is.
My 4F27E gearbox wants to go forward all the time. In P gear, the car does not move, but the engine does not spin up above 2000 rpm. In N gear, the car goes forward. In D gear, the car starts from 2rd gear and switches normally to 3rd, but when switching to 4th, something strange happens. If I use manual mode 1-2 gears, the car goes perfectly. Please tell me, is the problem in the valves or is the FORWARD clutch pack jammed? Thanks
@@usuallyfixingtinkering P gear engages accurately, but the engine does not rev above 2000 rpm. It feels as if D gear is engaged and the brake is pressed (stall test). I assume that the FORWARD package works all the time. What do you think?
no the forward clutch does not work all the time, I think we have a valve body fault which would be difficult to pinpoint unless it was slit apart like I did here and to inspect everything and every valve, it sounds like a stuck valve allowing inapporpriate pressure to the forward clutch pack at the wrong time!
Great video, thank you! So, in my focus, it's not shifting into third gear. Revs go up really high, clunks, then goes unto limp mode. The error code is p0772 or solenoid E stuck on. I've checked all the solenoids, and they are within spec with their ohms. I've replaced Solenoids A and E simply because I already ordered them. Still having the same shifting problem. Same code as well. Any recommendations? Cheers!
firstly did you buy aftermarket solenoids because they can be 50/50 whether they work well. Solenoid E stuck on - this controls the release of an important servo piston that basically releases the brake band to get 3rd gear. So not getting 3rd gear tallies up with the solenoid being stuck on. My recommendation is removing the valve body, carefully stripping and seeing if there's a blockage going to solenoid E or anything in the passageways! Certain if the solenoid is in spec!
I have many problems with this transmission. The first thing is that when the transmission is cold, it gets stuck in 3rd gear limp mode and the OD light flashes without a code. If I shut off and turn on the vehicle a couple of times, it engages 1st gear. The other problem is when shifting to 3rd gear, it engages for a second and then slams back into 2nd gear. 4th gear directly slips. The only code present is P0733. Do you have any idea what the cause of these problems could be? Thanks
Yep, can you please check the fluid level in the gearbox when the car is hot at working temp and has been put through all gear selections for 10 seconds and hen with the engine running, look at the dipstick mark! It may be low on fluid to rule this out!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I checked the fluid level and it's right on the hot mark when the vehicle is warm. I added a quarter of a quart, but there were no changes; same problem.
Mine is at 130k. 2011 4spd SEL model. As soon as you put into drive. Wrench light comes on. I pulled codes and i cant remember exact code, but it was for a shift solenoid c electrical circuit malfunction. I replaced the shift solenoid c. It does good on all shifts EXCEPT into 4th. It will go into 4th and immediately slam back down into 3rd. Any advice? Do you think this is electrical?
Of course sorry I didn'nt think, it's difficult to diagnose that issue but it may be the servo piston in the sump area is worn and bleeding pressure between 3 and 4th, its a round rubber disc covered by a small panel with three nuts holding it down and it had a shaft that pushes on one of the clutches, this does wear or even breaks, if that happened though it would affec 2-3 shift, so may be just worn. If it is it is a tricky repair and needs reboring by a transmission specialist to refit the old piston.
@usuallyfixingtinkering that's what I was curious about. 2-3 isn't bad is why I'm stumped. And no slipping between 3 and 4. It goes into 4th but shortly after quickly jolts down. Weird weird stuff.
Thank you sir.I have question. I have bought new automatic transmission and mounted. The vehicle is running smoothly for the first time, I do not have any problems with gear shifting. However, after driving an average of 15 km, the light comes on and turns off after 1-3 seconds. After 1-5 seconds, it turns on again and goes off. Finally, on the 3rd time, it turns on and does not go off. After the light stays on, it turns off. The vehicle does not feel any problem at 1-2 revs, but it becomes a slight problem at 3rd and beyond. That is, when shifting to 3rd, it holds it and releases it, that is, the shift is felt, when the revs are completed, it is felt at 3.7 revs, not 3.2 revs. Afterwards, it should complete the revs and shift to 4th. It passes at almost 5 thousand cycles, sometimes it doesn't. In this situation, when you pull the car aside and turn the ignition off and on, the light goes out and returns to the beginning, so it does not cause any problems until you drive 10-15 km. Afterwards, the same problem occurs. Sometimes, while driving with the light on (transmission protection light off), the gear shifts to 4th and continues, but when the light comes on, it shifts to 3rd. The oil has been changed and the transmission has been reset. The old transmission and the new transmission give the same malfunction response as if it had never been changed.I m getting same problem new and old transmission. OBD says P0741 fault Im sorry for long write... Thank you
That code is the Torque Convertor Clutch Solenoid which allows the lock-up in high gear and higher speeds - I've never heard of one failing in that box to date so first thing is to check that the transmission fluid level when HOT and gone through all the selections for 10 seconds with the engine running... see what it says.
8/6/24. 10.26hrs I am thinking of replacing whole solenoid plates as diagnostic refers to Solonoid E stuck and E no circuit also gear 3 and 4 incorrect ratio. Is there a gasket between plate and fix to valve body?
Tricky one as they rarely give up, I'd be looking at disconnecting the plug to solenoid E and reconnecting to start! The solenoid bodies are made in china and I am very suspicious of their quality!
Tengo un ford focus 2006 y no cambia marcha atrás, se acelera y en R da un golpe y retrocede pero se cae la velocidad no hace retroceso, se hizo toda la caja se cambiaron todos pero no el de presión como usted dice, podría ser el de presión?
Firstly check that the fluid is at the correct level, get the car hot, check the dipstick! Reverse is always the first gear to be lost when there is a pressure issue, far less pressure is needed in Drive. Check the fluid.
Hello, in my case when I put D, I feel that the car starts in 2nd or 3rd gear, accelerates very slowly and heavily, even if I put 1st or 2nd I feel the correct relationship with enough force to move the car, but in D there is no force to efficiently overcome the inertia of the car, ** I thought it might be solenoid ´D´ SSD *** - Focus ZTS 2.0 Zetec, grettings from Chile.
The only time that Solenoid D is in operation is 1st gear! If it works in Manual 1st gear and moves off nicely and not pulling off in D, then I would definetly look at that solenoid!
There shouldn't be, check all the bolts are off think there's 11 on outside of block and make sure the manual valve is disengaged from the selector mechanism.
I have a problem with 4F27E FOCUS MK2. Sometimes, when I shift from P to R or D, there is (sometimes) a smaller or larger impact when the oil is hot. What is there to do? mechanism or solenoid? The gearbox is supposedly rebuilt, but made by the Chinese. Before replacing the gearbox, I had the same symptom
when you say chinese - the whole box? That's a new one on me but I would suggest taking the car for a drive then when hot pull up, go through each gear quadrant 10 seconds at a time, then put it in park and with the engine running - check the dipstick, it sounds low to me
@@usuallyfixingtinkering yes, the whole box from China. I was also surprised, but the box looks like it came from the factory. Everything is ok. Just these hits on R mainly. Ok, I'll do that and check
I never knew you coud get them from china, R = engagement is always more noticeable because it requires the highest hydraulic pressure in the box! Any hydraulic pressure issues result in loss of R first!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I went for a drive, this time there was no knocking noise. I can't reliably check the oil level. Whenever I pull out the dipstick in the old and now new gearbox, there is max oil or even above max. This bayonet is stupid. Who comes up with the arc technique? I will try to adapt the gearbox while driving
@@usuallyfixingtinkering hmmm Maybe the Chinese failed to regenerate the solenoid because it was dirty? These solenoids are of poor quality. Maybe they left a slight play in some part of the aluminum casing of the gearbox or pump and it does not hold the correct pressure?
Been looking for a video on this for ages haha. I got a leak coming from mine. Its on the top of the box and runs down. What do u think it is? Also i did a oil flush on mine and my over drive is slipping now after 80km/h
That is unusual at that mileage to have ay issues, what colour is the fluid? I am not sure where that leak may come from unless it's one of the sensors leaking out at the top of the box, however due to the gearbox webbing I doubt that it will run down!
Sweet video bud! Dealing with the Mazda trans slamming into reverse, and not having 3rd or 4th gear, tries to shift from 2nd to 3rd and flares without success then the cel flashes and puts me into a “limp mode” only code is p0705 and I have replaced it twice now with same end result. Any ideas? You seem pretty knowledgeable within this trans and it’s common issues
It seems you may have a faulty transmission range sensor that bolts to the front of the gearbox between the casing and selector lever, that is what the code is indicating!
I have replaced that 3 times now, all 3 times with a new part and still to no avail. When it first started acting up, it would randomly kick out of o/d and put you into limp mode, but you could put it into neutral, turn the key off, start the car back, put it into drive and it would go right on down the road. But now it does it almost immediately and I can’t “soft reset” it with the key. Ecu failure?
As traditional slush-box automatics go they are very reliable if they are not abused and treated like it can produce the peformance of a manual. As long as the fluid is check and changed if it has not already been done so there's very little to go wrong. The main weakness are Shift Solenoids A & B, which will reguarly be supplied with a filter and gasket kit when changing the fluid. They CAN pack-up but its not a hard job in the slightest. Compared to the Powershift gearbox which replaced this around 2008 or just after, this is 10x more reliable.
@Usually Fixing & Tinkering excellent! I've had a few autos now. Most of them being fine other than a citroen c4 grand Picasso auto which was horrible. Mines currently sitting on 70k miles and the fluid is pink. The gears shift fine. Would I need to change the fluid? Yes I've heard horror stories about the powershift box. Did ford revert back to this box then?
@@BigGent22 no but they reverted to the same type of gearbox! I would look to change the fluid at this age even though its pink at the moment. It will really benefit long term. The trick of telling- the Sump pan should have no gasket, if you can see one the fluid has been changed previously, as a gasket comes with a filter kit. Originally it was just stick on with sealer which you may see if its untouched.
@@usuallyfixingtinkering thanks. I've looked at one of these gearboxes by a friend who knows nothing about cars. Scanned it and have a fault stored for p0733 (gear 3 incorrect ratio). Driving the car gearbox is slipping in 3rd and bangs into gears. I'm trying to determine which solenoid does what.
Wow, I searched for weeks, then this video popped up as a "recommendation". Well done, sir.
Cheers buddy I hope it covers a decent amount of detail
Main issues to summarise - Loss of shifting between gears could be Solenoids A & B Malfunctioning, this will throw a code! Replacements are easy to obtain and can be had with a filter service kit.
Loss of either/both 2nd and 4th - Broken Servo Piston Rod and/or worn Gear Band (usually the piston Rod).
Very harsh shifting between 1 & 2 - Broken Accumulator Spring/s.
There is another issue of the stator/pump bushings wearing prematurely causing pressure leakage, this stops the Torque Convertor Clutch from engaging in 3rd and 4th. Very unnoticeable apart from worse fuel enconomy than usual on motorway/long distance driving.
Very informative video thanks. Would you happen to have an insight when my focus has no computer error whatsoever. No dtc on transmission or solenoid. But my car moves forward when in Neutral. I have no reverse. It launches but stops at Park, maybe parking pawl engages. At Drive it moves forward normally.
@@kaletsugas thank you sir, how do you mean moves forward in neutral? These gearboxes don't throw many codes it's very rare unless a solenoid has failed. If you have no reverse that's a hydraulic issue, reverse requires way more pressure on the clutches to operate. So if there's any issues with pressure then it would manifest as no reverse first of all. Check the fluid level from hot, drive it take it through all the gears, just hold it in each quadrant. Then check dipstick. What colour is the fluid?
My Focus Mk1 with this box has an issue where sometimes it does what feels like a hard shift, usually when driving slowly so it's going between 1 and 2, and then will go into limp mode.
Replaced the valve body along with the solenoids, but still persists. No fault codes on the diagnostic.
Any ideas what it might be...? Likely to be the box or something else? Speed sensor? Earth connection?
Hello, dear. My Focus does not shift into fourth gear. Also, the tiptronic does not work. Kicks between 1st and 2nd gear. The oil is almost fresh. The problem began after replacing the fuel pump motor. There, I disconnected the battery terminal several times. And by mistake, I punctured the adsorber tube. And that's it. After which problems with the gearbox began. The mechanics cannot find what the problem is.
My 4F27E gearbox wants to go forward all the time. In P gear, the car does not move, but the engine does not spin up above 2000 rpm. In N gear, the car goes forward. In D gear, the car starts from 2rd gear and switches normally to 3rd, but when switching to 4th, something strange happens. If I use manual mode 1-2 gears, the car goes perfectly. Please tell me, is the problem in the valves or is the FORWARD clutch pack jammed? Thanks
I was going to suggest your gear linkage is not adjusted but that is a new one. Sorry I've not heard of this before!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering P gear engages accurately, but the engine does not rev above 2000 rpm. It feels as if D gear is engaged and the brake is pressed (stall test). I assume that the FORWARD package works all the time. What do you think?
no the forward clutch does not work all the time, I think we have a valve body fault which would be difficult to pinpoint unless it was slit apart like I did here and to inspect everything and every valve, it sounds like a stuck valve allowing inapporpriate pressure to the forward clutch pack at the wrong time!
Great video, thank you!
So, in my focus, it's not shifting into third gear. Revs go up really high, clunks, then goes unto limp mode. The error code is p0772 or solenoid E stuck on. I've checked all the solenoids, and they are within spec with their ohms. I've replaced Solenoids A and E simply because I already ordered them.
Still having the same shifting problem. Same code as well. Any recommendations?
Cheers!
firstly did you buy aftermarket solenoids because they can be 50/50 whether they work well. Solenoid E stuck on - this controls the release of an important servo piston that basically releases the brake band to get 3rd gear. So not getting 3rd gear tallies up with the solenoid being stuck on. My recommendation is removing the valve body, carefully stripping and seeing if there's a blockage going to solenoid E or anything in the passageways! Certain if the solenoid is in spec!
I have many problems with this transmission. The first thing is that when the transmission is cold, it gets stuck in 3rd gear limp mode and the OD light flashes without a code. If I shut off and turn on the vehicle a couple of times, it engages 1st gear. The other problem is when shifting to 3rd gear, it engages for a second and then slams back into 2nd gear. 4th gear directly slips. The only code present is P0733. Do you have any idea what the cause of these problems could be?
Thanks
Yep, can you please check the fluid level in the gearbox when the car is hot at working temp and has been put through all gear selections for 10 seconds and hen with the engine running, look at the dipstick mark! It may be low on fluid to rule this out!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I checked the fluid level and it's right on the hot mark when the vehicle is warm. I added a quarter of a quart, but there were no changes; same problem.
@@javier.villatoro unfortunately I think there's a mechanical issue with third gear clutch pack. How many miles/km has the car done?
Mine is at 130k. 2011 4spd SEL model. As soon as you put into drive. Wrench light comes on. I pulled codes and i cant remember exact code, but it was for a shift solenoid c electrical circuit malfunction. I replaced the shift solenoid c. It does good on all shifts EXCEPT into 4th. It will go into 4th and immediately slam back down into 3rd. Any advice? Do you think this is electrical?
It sounds electrical because the problem has shifted but it's difficult to say, has the fluid been changed to rule that out!!?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering yes fluid and filter were both changed when I replaced the shift solenoid.
Of course sorry I didn'nt think, it's difficult to diagnose that issue but it may be the servo piston in the sump area is worn and bleeding pressure between 3 and 4th, its a round rubber disc covered by a small panel with three nuts holding it down and it had a shaft that pushes on one of the clutches, this does wear or even breaks, if that happened though it would affec 2-3 shift, so may be just worn. If it is it is a tricky repair and needs reboring by a transmission specialist to refit the old piston.
@usuallyfixingtinkering that's what I was curious about. 2-3 isn't bad is why I'm stumped. And no slipping between 3 and 4. It goes into 4th but shortly after quickly jolts down. Weird weird stuff.
Thank you sir.I have question. I have bought new automatic transmission and mounted.
The vehicle is running smoothly for the first time, I do not have any problems with gear shifting. However, after driving an average of 15 km, the light comes on and turns off after 1-3 seconds. After 1-5 seconds, it turns on again and goes off. Finally, on the 3rd time, it turns on and does not go off. After the light stays on, it turns off.
The vehicle does not feel any problem at 1-2 revs, but it becomes a slight problem at 3rd and beyond. That is, when shifting to 3rd, it holds it and releases it, that is, the shift is felt, when the revs are completed, it is felt at 3.7 revs, not 3.2 revs. Afterwards, it should complete the revs and shift to 4th.
It passes at almost 5 thousand cycles, sometimes it doesn't.
In this situation, when you pull the car aside and turn the ignition off and on, the light goes out and returns to the beginning, so it does not cause any problems until you drive 10-15 km. Afterwards, the same problem occurs.
Sometimes, while driving with the light on (transmission protection light off), the gear shifts to 4th and continues, but when the light comes on, it shifts to 3rd.
The oil has been changed and the transmission has been reset. The old transmission and the new transmission give the same malfunction response as if it had never been changed.I m getting same problem new and old transmission.
OBD says P0741 fault
Im sorry for long write...
Thank you
That code is the Torque Convertor Clutch Solenoid which allows the lock-up in high gear and higher speeds - I've never heard of one failing in that box to date so first thing is to check that the transmission fluid level when HOT and gone through all the selections for 10 seconds with the engine running... see what it says.
8/6/24. 10.26hrs
I am thinking of replacing whole solenoid plates as diagnostic refers to Solonoid E stuck and E no circuit also gear 3 and 4 incorrect ratio. Is there a gasket between plate and fix to valve body?
Tricky one as they rarely give up, I'd be looking at disconnecting the plug to solenoid E and reconnecting to start! The solenoid bodies are made in china and I am very suspicious of their quality!
Tengo un ford focus 2006 y no cambia marcha atrás, se acelera y en R da un golpe y retrocede pero se cae la velocidad no hace retroceso, se hizo toda la caja se cambiaron todos pero no el de presión como usted dice, podría ser el de presión?
Firstly check that the fluid is at the correct level, get the car hot, check the dipstick! Reverse is always the first gear to be lost when there is a pressure issue, far less pressure is needed in Drive. Check the fluid.
Hello, in my case when I put D, I feel that the car starts in 2nd or 3rd gear, accelerates very slowly and heavily, even if I put 1st or 2nd I feel the correct relationship with enough force to move the car, but in D there is no force to efficiently overcome the inertia of the car, ** I thought it might be solenoid ´D´ SSD *** - Focus ZTS 2.0 Zetec, grettings from Chile.
The only time that Solenoid D is in operation is 1st gear! If it works in Manual 1st gear and moves off nicely and not pulling off in D, then I would definetly look at that solenoid!
We nearly have body out of box but something is holding it in middle, any idea what I'm doing wrong?
There shouldn't be, check all the bolts are off think there's 11 on outside of block and make sure the manual valve is disengaged from the selector mechanism.
Can you please tell me about hydraulic accumulators, where- what springs should be located? Thanks
They go back in the place they came out unless you've forgotten. Ford 7zap.com has an exploded diagram showing which spring goes where
good evening I have a ford focus automatic gearbox the start does not return at all it does not even attack
I'm not quite sure I understand, does the gearbox not change gear?
I have a problem with 4F27E FOCUS MK2. Sometimes, when I shift from P to R or D, there is (sometimes) a smaller or larger impact when the oil is hot. What is there to do? mechanism or solenoid? The gearbox is supposedly rebuilt, but made by the Chinese. Before replacing the gearbox, I had the same symptom
when you say chinese - the whole box? That's a new one on me but I would suggest taking the car for a drive then when hot pull up, go through each gear quadrant 10 seconds at a time, then put it in park and with the engine running - check the dipstick, it sounds low to me
@@usuallyfixingtinkering yes, the whole box from China. I was also surprised, but the box looks like it came from the factory. Everything is ok. Just these hits on R mainly. Ok, I'll do that and check
I never knew you coud get them from china, R = engagement is always more noticeable because it requires the highest hydraulic pressure in the box! Any hydraulic pressure issues result in loss of R first!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering I went for a drive, this time there was no knocking noise. I can't reliably check the oil level. Whenever I pull out the dipstick in the old and now new gearbox, there is max oil or even above max. This bayonet is stupid. Who comes up with the arc technique? I will try to adapt the gearbox while driving
@@usuallyfixingtinkering hmmm Maybe the Chinese failed to regenerate the solenoid because it was dirty? These solenoids are of poor quality. Maybe they left a slight play in some part of the aluminum casing of the gearbox or pump and it does not hold the correct pressure?
I saw this gearbox is more reliable in a Mazda cause something change, is it right?
no its equally as reliable in both cars there's no difference apart from the sump pan in the mazda version having a drain plug!
@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thank you for the answer. This drain plug is a good thing?
Is there a video in wich you dissasembled the transmission?
In the early days there may not be an episode. What are you looking to see?
Been looking for a video on this for ages haha.
I got a leak coming from mine. Its on the top of the box and runs down. What do u think it is?
Also i did a oil flush on mine and my over drive is slipping now after 80km/h
That is unusual at that mileage to have ay issues, what colour is the fluid? I am not sure where that leak may come from unless it's one of the sensors leaking out at the top of the box, however due to the gearbox webbing I doubt that it will run down!
Sweet video bud! Dealing with the Mazda trans slamming into reverse, and not having 3rd or 4th gear, tries to shift from 2nd to 3rd and flares without success then the cel flashes and puts me into a “limp mode” only code is p0705 and I have replaced it twice now with same end result. Any ideas? You seem pretty knowledgeable within this trans and it’s common issues
It seems you may have a faulty transmission range sensor that bolts to the front of the gearbox between the casing and selector lever, that is what the code is indicating!
I have replaced that 3 times now, all 3 times with a new part and still to no avail. When it first started acting up, it would randomly kick out of o/d and put you into limp mode, but you could put it into neutral, turn the key off, start the car back, put it into drive and it would go right on down the road. But now it does it almost immediately and I can’t “soft reset” it with the key. Ecu failure?
Ben j'ai ford focus boite automatique le depart ne rendre pas du tout il n'attaque même pas
Thars very strange
How reliable are these boxes?
As traditional slush-box automatics go they are very reliable if they are not abused and treated like it can produce the peformance of a manual. As long as the fluid is check and changed if it has not already been done so there's very little to go wrong. The main weakness are Shift Solenoids A & B, which will reguarly be supplied with a filter and gasket kit when changing the fluid. They CAN pack-up but its not a hard job in the slightest. Compared to the Powershift gearbox which replaced this around 2008 or just after, this is 10x more reliable.
@Usually Fixing & Tinkering excellent! I've had a few autos now. Most of them being fine other than a citroen c4 grand Picasso auto which was horrible. Mines currently sitting on 70k miles and the fluid is pink. The gears shift fine. Would I need to change the fluid? Yes I've heard horror stories about the powershift box. Did ford revert back to this box then?
@@BigGent22 no but they reverted to the same type of gearbox! I would look to change the fluid at this age even though its pink at the moment. It will really benefit long term. The trick of telling- the Sump pan should have no gasket, if you can see one the fluid has been changed previously, as a gasket comes with a filter kit. Originally it was just stick on with sealer which you may see if its untouched.
Hello, do you still respond to comments? Could do with picking your brains on something
go right ahead :)
@@usuallyfixingtinkering thanks. I've looked at one of these gearboxes by a friend who knows nothing about cars. Scanned it and have a fault stored for p0733 (gear 3 incorrect ratio). Driving the car gearbox is slipping in 3rd and bangs into gears. I'm trying to determine which solenoid does what.
I'll have a look later I've got a chart I can refer to, but it could be mechanical clutch issues not electric. How many miles has the gearbox done?
@@usuallyfixingtinkering 140,000. Sounds strange but doesn't feel mechanical sometimes it shifts perfect. Thanks
@@tinkeringwithcars3875 going into 3rd, when you say slipping is it a flare where the revs rise and falls when it goes into third? Is 4th difficult?