I have the twin brother of this transmission, the FN4A-EL with two problems, it will not engage 3rd nor 4th, it slips like is in neutral and the second problem is sometimes when I start the vehicle and put it in drive, kicks hard and only engage in 3th gear, when this happens I just shut off the vehicle, then back on and it drive normally (Only in 1st and 2nd). Only code present is P0733. I don't know how to start the diagnostic, im between change solenoids or look in the 3rd-4th drum.
What would cause a torque converter to go bad again after replacing it? My TC was making noise at acceleration, would shift hard and sometimes not engage 4th gear. Went ahead and replaced the TC, new filter and oil. All the symptoms went away.... but unfortunately it lasted for only a day. Im now back to having noises at acceleration, and some new noise appeared when slowly driving, but at the moment it still shifts fine and 4th gear still enagages, but that coould change i suppose. Is it a bad TC I got? Or is there an undelrying issue with the transmission that is killing the TC? I started thinking maybe its the oil pump, or something to do with oil pressure... but im not sure. This is on this same transmission btw, off of a Transit Connect
There is a big problem with the filters on these if you happen to get a Chinese made ones. Make sure and get a Filtran brand. Get it from the dealer if you have to. It may be a bad t/c. Personally I would deal with Precision of New Hampton. The 4th gear issue, these are horrible about wear in the servo bore. #1 problem with them. Bushing wear in the pump can cause t/c problems also.
@CurmudgeonTransmission hey thanks for the reply. I'll be keeping an eye on it... may have to get another TC, I'll give Hampton a try then, and most likely get an oem filter and oil pump... hopefully that fixes the issue Not looking forward to taking the transmission off again!
What causes a no reverse condition with this transmission. I'm curious what drum unit controls It. I also have another one that has a louder clicking noise internal when driving. Goes away when come to stop.
Could be a lot of things. The 2 elements that work it are the reverse drum and the low/reverse clutch. The reverse drum is the drum against the back cover. The cover and drum are very prone to wear. Can also be caused electrically. Bad solenoid, neutral switch, speed sensor reading when it should not. The clicking noise I am not sure what would be causing that. Maybe the differential.
If I was looking to just weld the differential all I would need to do would be unbolt the front case/pump assembly and nothing else? anything that would need to be removed in order to just do that?
My 2010 Focus tends to neutral out of overdrive when I let off the gas or coast. Anything I should be looking for during tear down? I appreciate your videos! I am confident I can do this myself with your video.
Pay close attention to the servo bore. I would ream it and put a bushing no matter, they are that bad, only seen a handful that were not worn out. Since you only mentioned 4th, you probably have a problem with the solenoid body gasket. Here is a link to the rebuild of it. th-cam.com/video/pILOkGb-Acc/w-d-xo.html
Hey i have a 2013 ford transit connect. I need to find the transmission differential. Can you tell me what teeth it is. Is it and 85t 1 groove 24. Or can you tell me what teeth i need. Any help would be very much appreciated.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission endplay in rear section of trans is about . 015" so that's acceptable, I'm saying flip trans to have bell side up and I can pull input shaft/drum up and down about . 060" with pump bolted in also, washer IS BETWEEN drum and pump,and I swear nothing is missing I checked multiple times, and hub is locked on circlip
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok i magined so, it took me a little off guard when you took it off with the case. im taking mine out and changing seals, il leaks somewhere in the bellhousing area. got all new seals for it
Hello I have some issues with my transmission. If I shift in drive it just spin. But if I shift to 2nd drive and start to drive then shift back to drive it drive fine all day. When I put it in reverse it shift hard and then it go in reverse. What do you think it can be
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 88 | คู่เอก "ป้อมเพชร vs อัสลามจอน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ZqTVVbMgbo/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for putting this out there. Helped a fair bit today on the work I did on my 08 Mazda 3 with the same trans. Appreciate it.
Thanks for watching.
I enjoy your videos I'm learning a lot .
Thanks, glad I could help.
I’m curious what you charge for this service. Thanks
I have the twin brother of this transmission, the FN4A-EL with two problems, it will not engage 3rd nor 4th, it slips like is in neutral and the second problem is sometimes when I start the vehicle and put it in drive, kicks hard and only engage in 3th gear, when this happens I just shut off the vehicle, then back on and it drive normally (Only in 1st and 2nd).
Only code present is P0733.
I don't know how to start the diagnostic, im between change solenoids or look in the 3rd-4th drum.
I would look at the drum, pistons and end cover sealing rings.
What would cause a torque converter to go bad again after replacing it?
My TC was making noise at acceleration, would shift hard and sometimes not engage 4th gear.
Went ahead and replaced the TC, new filter and oil. All the symptoms went away.... but unfortunately it lasted for only a day. Im now back to having noises at acceleration, and some new noise appeared when slowly driving, but at the moment it still shifts fine and 4th gear still enagages, but that coould change i suppose.
Is it a bad TC I got? Or is there an undelrying issue with the transmission that is killing the TC?
I started thinking maybe its the oil pump, or something to do with oil pressure... but im not sure.
This is on this same transmission btw, off of a Transit Connect
There is a big problem with the filters on these if you happen to get a Chinese made ones. Make sure and get a Filtran brand. Get it from the dealer if you have to. It may be a bad t/c. Personally I would deal with Precision of New Hampton. The 4th gear issue, these are horrible about wear in the servo bore. #1 problem with them. Bushing wear in the pump can cause t/c problems also.
@CurmudgeonTransmission hey thanks for the reply. I'll be keeping an eye on it... may have to get another TC, I'll give Hampton a try then, and most likely get an oem filter and oil pump... hopefully that fixes the issue
Not looking forward to taking the transmission off again!
What causes a no reverse condition with this transmission. I'm curious what drum unit controls It. I also have another one that has a louder clicking noise internal when driving. Goes away when come to stop.
Could be a lot of things. The 2 elements that work it are the reverse drum and the low/reverse clutch. The reverse drum is the drum against the back cover. The cover and drum are very prone to wear. Can also be caused electrically. Bad solenoid, neutral switch, speed sensor reading when it should not. The clicking noise I am not sure what would be causing that. Maybe the differential.
If I was looking to just weld the differential all I would need to do would be unbolt the front case/pump assembly and nothing else? anything that would need to be removed in order to just do that?
Correct, that is all.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission awesome, thanks for the speedy response
My 2010 Focus tends to neutral out of overdrive when I let off the gas or coast. Anything I should be looking for during tear down? I appreciate your videos! I am confident I can do this myself with your video.
Pay close attention to the servo bore. I would ream it and put a bushing no matter, they are that bad, only seen a handful that were not worn out. Since you only mentioned 4th, you probably have a problem with the solenoid body gasket. Here is a link to the rebuild of it. th-cam.com/video/pILOkGb-Acc/w-d-xo.html
I will have to purchase the kit for doing this, I appreciate it!
Hey i have a 2013 ford transit connect. I need to find the transmission differential. Can you tell me what teeth it is. Is it and 85t 1 groove 24. Or can you tell me what teeth i need. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Have not been able to find what the diff. tooth count should be. I do know that year should have a 3.956 ratio.
When 4f27e is all assembled how much is the input shaft supposed to move in and out ???
.009-.019
@@CurmudgeonTransmission endplay in rear section of trans is about . 015" so that's acceptable, I'm saying flip trans to have bell side up and I can pull input shaft/drum up and down about . 060" with pump bolted in also, washer IS BETWEEN drum and pump,and I swear nothing is missing I checked multiple times, and hub is locked on circlip
I can find no information on what or how to set end play for the front end. Can only find info on rear of the unit.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Neither could I, thanks for looking though
Do you absolutely have to rrmove front case to remove pump??
Mine is from a 2010 transit connect
No it can be removed without doing that.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok i magined so, it took me a little off guard when you took it off with the case.
im taking mine out and changing seals, il leaks somewhere in the bellhousing area.
got all new seals for it
Hello
I have some issues with my transmission. If I shift in drive it just spin. But if I shift to 2nd drive and start to drive then shift back to drive it drive fine all day. When I put it in reverse it shift hard and then it go in reverse. What do you think it can be
Have you had the system scanned? Any codes?
No not yet
Hi is it hard for a DIY person to rebuild a cvt transmission in a 2004 Saturn ion 3 ?
Yes they are pretty difficult without the tools. Also does not take much damage to make it as cost effective to buy a new one from the dealer.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok I may leave this alone. I think I can swap from a five speed automatic sedan.