Few more details? Haha. You’re an absolute legend mate! Never looked into how a tranny works but watching this series removed all doubt and hesitation from my mind. Nothing daunting about it. Probably the most in depth rebuild video you could ask for with all the bits to be aware of and look out for. Fact you’ve also included torque setting/clearances/lash etc makes this a comprehensive guide. Amazing work and thanks ever so much!
Oh Man! You wouldn’t believe how much I searched on Google for a video like this exact one. You saved my bacon Man, thank you very much , I really appreciate it. God speed Mate! Keep up the excellence with much blessings from above.
Request vid about changing ATF for the DIY’er. What method to use if no TC drain available; is synthetic recommended; things to check with the pan off; etc.
hi, if no trans pan drain plug, simply just remove the pan bolts from one end of pan and slowly loosen bolts to allow slow draining of pan. we use a vacuum pump to the trans cooling line to drain as much fluid out as we can, but the bottom half of torque converter fluid will still remain...usually means that about or around 80% is replaced. use the recommended fluid type or the best you can afford depending on the transmission application....here in Australia the brand type is irrelevant i believe as trans fluid is required to contain certain properties anyway....the fluid is there for mainly hydraulic purposes and then as well as for lubrication. when pan is off check for the kind of debris floating in pan....magnetic, non magnetic, type of material...this will indicate what may be wearing....like clutch/band linings, white metal bush material, bronze bush and thrust washer material, aluminium off pistons or case etc etc. also check that there isn`t excessive magnetic debris stuck to outside of solenoids ( will mean there is also suck on inside ) check wiring isnt rubbing on pan or anywhere and i like to wriggle the terminal connectors so they find a new spot or improve connections...also good to spray some crc or wd40 on external electrical connections. hope that helps cheers
Hi, that software that you use to get the info is it individually for each type or does it have more than just this transmission in it? I would love information on that to get more info when doing one
@@YepThatsIt we use launch now but i would like to know that information where you show the air test locations, the fluid passages and stuff, like you showed the procedure on tightening the band That be nice to know what software it is
Good morning, I hope you can help me and give me an idea. I will repair the transmission and I have these two errors P1705. P0732 . I have checked it several times and I have not found anything damaged. Thank you very much. My car is a Ford Transit Connect 2010
Hello, you have alot of nice videos. Thank you for making these helpful videos. I have a 2007 mazda 3 with the 5sp automatic and I just replaced the reverse and 3 to 4 clutch packs and band. It fixed my forward gears but reverse is still slipping very bad. The car bearly moves in reverse. Do you think it could be a bad servo piston? Or a stuck shift solenoid? I can hear the solenoid buzzing when I put the gear shift into reverse. Thank You.
The fluid level is full and im getting no codes or AT lights. The reverse was slipping just as bad before I did the clutches, reverse was slipping and 3rd and 4th gear would not engage at the time before I did the clutches. Now all my forward gears work after the clutches was replaced. But reverse did engage good for a couple days and then it just started slipping bad again. I was thinking it was a pressure problem but all of my forward gears are working good so thats why i was thinking maybe it was a solenoid that controls reverse but I can hear it buzzing when I put the car in reverse, so im kind of stumped right now. Maybe the solenoid is stuck. I might try replacing the valve body with all new shift solenoids. Thank You for the information.
Hey Bud, I have a Focus with the same Transmission 4F27E. The Transmission lost Reverse. It does move forward, but seems to not have 3rd gear either, just like the vehicle in this video. Im looking to do a full rebuild, but what I was wondering, is there a rebuild kit that I can order that has all the parts I need for the rebuild? Also where can I order the adjustable Band Bolt? Thanks mate, really appreciate taking the time to do the rebuild videos.
Great video, I'll subscribe! When I tested my 2 clutch pack ports (near shift rail) the hole farther away from servo didn't seem to hear any movement. The hose pressurised the hole, but no clutch pack sound.... Comments? Thanks
hi, often if the bushings/sealing rings are worn, you wont hear a sound as everything is hanging down. remember oil is thicker than air as well. make sure your air apply isnt leaking, minimum of about 65-70psi should be enough to hear it apply. cheers
Hi, i'm new to your channel but great videos! Very informative. I'm having an issue with a 2001 Mazda Protege, just under 150K with the FN4AEL, wont shift into second, O/D light comes on and starts flashing. PO732 code gets stored. I know it had at least one service within the last 5 years before i bought it. Was owned by an elderly lady since new and i know it was never driven hard or abused and I don't either. Just normal. I did a service six months ago with no problem until now. Nothing in fluid or pan that indicated internal damage and fluid was nice and clean, still very pink and minor sludge on magnet. I had a sticking solenoid but changed all of them with new because they came in a set but didn't solve problem. Fluid was still clean when drained the second time. Would you have any advice on where to look before a removal and teardown? Much appreciated! Cheers!
hi, might be worth popping off valve body and doing an air pressure test on clutch packs and band, or line pressure test if you have pressure gauge. hopefully you have checked all the other basics as well ....cheers
Hello, I am writing to you from Turkey. I have a Ford Fiesta with a 4F27E transmission and a 1.4-liter petrol engine. I have an issue that we haven't been able to resolve. The problem occurs especially after the car warms up; it jolts when shifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. It feels as if another vehicle is hitting it from behind. I haven't noticed any issues with other gear shifts, but this problem happens specifically when shifting from 3rd to 2nd. It particularly occurs on steep inclines. When the speed decreases on an incline and the engine needs to downshift from 3rd to 2nd to recover, this issue happens. If I switch to manual mode and ease off the gas pedal while manually shifting from 3rd to 2nd, the jolt doesn't occur. However, if I shift while keeping my foot on the gas pedal in manual mode, the jolt happens just like in automatic mode. What do you think could be the problem? Do you have any guesses? The local mechanics here have suggested a complete transmission replacement, which is very expensive. Since the problem occurs only during this specific gear shift, I would prefer not to replace the entire transmission. Is there a simpler solution? I would greatly appreciate your response. Best regards.
How many liters of transmission carry those automatic boxes is bad if you go over the level of a 1994 toyota corolla and how much does it take to do the service to the box
hi, you always go by measuring what comes out, but make sure you check as per manufacturers recommendation regarding temp etc. do not over fill as fluid will expand and can aerate causing issues. cheers
Hi great video, very informative. I am thinking of tackling on this rebuild for my Mazda FN4AEL - I am not a professional by any means. I have the basic knowledge of how stuff works, I've been working on cars for a long time as a weekend warrior backyard mechanic. I just want to ask how difficult would this rebuild be on a scale of 1-10? I'm guessing by looking at your videos it would be around a 6-7, but what would you say?
Awesome, thanks for your reply. I will check out the other videos. One more question, does the 2005 Mazda 3 have a TCM? I cannot find it and I am stumped...
Hello, I'm about to start sorting out my Mazda 3 without 3rd or 4th gear. I was told to replace the "Direct Drum" 3-4, and the Ring Seals. You mention something about where the Ring Seals seat at the 8:30 mark in your video, that they get worn out. I was wondering is this a part you can replace? It looks like it's attached to the side cover. Keep in mind I haven't pulled anything apart yet and I'm just going by looks on the video. Also, I'm trying to leave trans in car and do this as cheaply as possible. I know this video is old and appreciate any advice, cheers.
hi, have you watched my other 4f27e vids? this one shows how you would do in car repair and how much you can access th-cam.com/video/CRC_x7cnAHQ/w-d-xo.html . pardon all my umms , hope there are some beers for me ! cheers
Hello and let me first say thank you for your video it is a very helpful asking if you could please point me in the right direction I have the same transmission in a focus all of my gear shift out fine 1 2 3 neutral and reverse but when it shifts to 4th it just revs like it's in neutral if I let the car slow down it engages third again, where might i start looking? My shift solenoids are fine I have even replaced solenoid A still no luck
hi, try the band adjustment. the bore on the case where the 2-4 band servo piston rod runs can be worn out. end cover rings not sealing properly. cheers
Hi bud , great video I’ve got a 2012 Ford fiesta with this 4 speed box in. Gear 1&2 drives fine , shifts to 3rd and it revs like hell ! You still have drive in the gear at the high rpm same as 4th .. any idea ? TIA Tom
hi, sounds like a pressure leak somewhere. check all the basics first before you remove trans pan and you can remove vbody and air pressure the apply ports. see our other vids on th-cam.com/video/qDXkAOP9vos/w-d-xo.html cheers
I turkey Istanbul from you I have a tool that will be a question of protons brand, model 1998 Mitsubishi vehicle with the engine automatic transmission's my problem means I'm running but not moving is doing a very slow start automatic transmission I made new, but the car cıktı solenoid problem spot is not coming up, how do we solve, you must help me
hi, sorry just found your comment in youtubes spam. contact me on my face book link facebook.com/Yep-Thats-It-103051017785435/ and leave me which kind of vehicle/transmission type you have, and leave a detailed description of any fault codes and issue you are having ( we are able to exchange pics/diagrams on there ) and details of what work you have already performed or checked...... you will need to buy me some beers ( link is in face book ) and I will answer your questions accordingly. cheers
You did this with no factory special tools and only your hook/screwdriver self-made tool? That’s impressive... What is the document you referenced? Are the parts OE from Mazda or aftermarket? I have 2004 Mazda3s (USA) FNK2 trans that I expect to need this if I keep it long. Any known weak points on this trans? Your descriptions and camera work are exceptional. Extra points for all the appropriate closeups.
Hi, thanks for that ;-) haha my old man always said " the tools are only as good as the person using them " The manuals we usually use are ATSG - Automatic Transmission Service Group ( you may even find a free version if you google it ). Id say the weak points are if this transmission is not serviced regularly with filter replacement and cleaning trans pan and magnet. Basically any transmission kept cool and clean will last a lot longer. They also got rid of the adjustable band bolt, so you need to change it to an adjustable type to get the most out of the band. The servo piston bore in case is also prone to wearing out quite often ( as well as the anchor bracket on the band bending slightly which also throws out the band adjustment ). I like the fact that often you can repair these without the need to remove the trans ( that is..if the torque converter and forward clutch pack are ok ) good luck and cheers
Hi, I don't have any fault code. Mazda 121 Metro Shades 2001. It takes a few second for drive to engage but reverse engages straight away. The engine revs up when shifting from 1st to 2nd if I keep pressing the accelerator and eventually shifts to 2nd. issue is more sever when transmission is hot. But If I release the accelerator like how I would do on a manual car then it goes to 2nd easily. (Almost like driving a manual car for 1st to 2nd gear change) Rest of the gears including reverse is very smooth including down shifting. I found the front engine mount has been separated and I have ordered a new one. Any thoughts on what it might be? (I will get a newer car once used car price comes down a bit. I will be happy if I can get another 5-10K out of it without the gear change issue. currently on 298K.)
Few more details? Haha. You’re an absolute legend mate! Never looked into how a tranny works but watching this series removed all doubt and hesitation from my mind. Nothing daunting about it. Probably the most in depth rebuild video you could ask for with all the bits to be aware of and look out for. Fact you’ve also included torque setting/clearances/lash etc makes this a comprehensive guide.
Amazing work and thanks ever so much!
Oh Man! You wouldn’t believe how much I searched on Google for a video like this exact one. You saved my bacon Man, thank you very much , I really appreciate it.
God speed Mate! Keep up the excellence with much blessings from above.
hi, glad helped. few beers would be nice ;-) link is in description. cheers
Request vid about changing ATF for the DIY’er. What method to use if no TC drain available; is synthetic recommended; things to check with the pan off; etc.
hi, if no trans pan drain plug, simply just remove the pan bolts from one end of pan and slowly loosen bolts to allow slow draining of pan. we use a vacuum pump to the trans cooling line to drain as much fluid out as we can, but the bottom half of torque converter fluid will still remain...usually means that about or around 80% is replaced. use the recommended fluid type or the best you can afford depending on the transmission application....here in Australia the brand type is irrelevant i believe as trans fluid is required to contain certain properties anyway....the fluid is there for mainly hydraulic purposes and then as well as for lubrication. when pan is off check for the kind of debris floating in pan....magnetic, non magnetic, type of material...this will indicate what may be wearing....like clutch/band linings, white metal bush material, bronze bush and thrust washer material, aluminium off pistons or case etc etc. also check that there isn`t excessive magnetic debris stuck to outside of solenoids ( will mean there is also suck on inside ) check wiring isnt rubbing on pan or anywhere and i like to wriggle the terminal connectors so they find a new spot or improve connections...also good to spray some crc or wd40 on external electrical connections. hope that helps cheers
ATF M-V (not mercon V). The recommended fluid is idemitsi type M
Hi, that software that you use to get the info is it individually for each type or does it have more than just this transmission in it? I would love information on that to get more info when doing one
Hi, scan tools do many vehicles but not all. we use Autel lately but Foxwell work well also. cheers
@@YepThatsIt we use launch now but i would like to know that information where you show the air test locations, the fluid passages and stuff, like you showed the procedure on tightening the band
That be nice to know what software it is
Good morning, I hope you can help me and give me an idea. I will repair the transmission and I have these two errors P1705. P0732 . I have checked it several times and I have not found anything damaged. Thank you very much. My car is a Ford Transit Connect 2010
Hello, you have alot of nice videos. Thank you for making these helpful videos. I have a 2007 mazda 3 with the 5sp automatic and I just replaced the reverse and 3 to 4 clutch packs and band. It fixed my forward gears but reverse is still slipping very bad. The car bearly moves in reverse. Do you think it could be a bad servo piston? Or a stuck shift solenoid? I can hear the solenoid buzzing when I put the gear shift into reverse. Thank You.
hi, how was reverse before you did repair? check simpler things 1st before you delve back into it. cheers
The fluid level is full and im getting no codes or AT lights. The reverse was slipping just as bad before I did the clutches, reverse was slipping and 3rd and 4th gear would not engage at the time before I did the clutches. Now all my forward gears work after the clutches was replaced. But reverse did engage good for a couple days and then it just started slipping bad again. I was thinking it was a pressure problem but all of my forward gears are working good so thats why i was thinking maybe it was a solenoid that controls reverse but I can hear it buzzing when I put the car in reverse, so im kind of stumped right now. Maybe the solenoid is stuck. I might try replacing the valve body with all new shift solenoids. Thank You for the information.
Hey Bud, I have a Focus with the same Transmission 4F27E. The Transmission lost Reverse. It does move forward, but seems to not have 3rd gear either, just like the vehicle in this video. Im looking to do a full rebuild, but what I was wondering, is there a rebuild kit that I can order that has all the parts I need for the rebuild? Also where can I order the adjustable Band Bolt? Thanks mate, really appreciate taking the time to do the rebuild videos.
hi, if you`re in oz, you can contact me through my face book link and let me know what you need. cheers
Great video, I'll subscribe!
When I tested my 2 clutch pack ports (near shift rail) the hole farther away from servo didn't seem to hear any movement. The hose pressurised the hole, but no clutch pack sound.... Comments? Thanks
hi, often if the bushings/sealing rings are worn, you wont hear a sound as everything is hanging down. remember oil is thicker than air as well. make sure your air apply isnt leaking, minimum of about 65-70psi should be enough to hear it apply. cheers
Thanks!
You have so many great videos! So much knowledge, so much expertise! I salute you!
Great video with great explications. How many miles does it go before it needs rebuild?
thanks & cheers
Hi, i'm new to your channel but great videos! Very informative. I'm having an issue with a 2001 Mazda Protege, just under 150K with the FN4AEL, wont shift into second, O/D light comes on and starts flashing. PO732 code gets stored. I know it had at least one service within the last 5 years before i bought it. Was owned by an elderly lady since new and i know it was never driven hard or abused and I don't either. Just normal. I did a service six months ago with no problem until now. Nothing in fluid or pan that indicated internal damage and fluid was nice and clean, still very pink and minor sludge on magnet. I had a sticking solenoid but changed all of them with new because they came in a set but didn't solve problem. Fluid was still clean when drained the second time. Would you have any advice on where to look before a removal and teardown? Much appreciated! Cheers!
hi, might be worth popping off valve body and doing an air pressure test on clutch packs and band, or line pressure test if you have pressure gauge. hopefully you have checked all the other basics as well ....cheers
@@YepThatsIt Thanks so much!
Hello, I am writing to you from Turkey. I have a Ford Fiesta with a 4F27E transmission and a 1.4-liter petrol engine. I have an issue that we haven't been able to resolve. The problem occurs especially after the car warms up; it jolts when shifting from 3rd to 2nd gear. It feels as if another vehicle is hitting it from behind. I haven't noticed any issues with other gear shifts, but this problem happens specifically when shifting from 3rd to 2nd. It particularly occurs on steep inclines. When the speed decreases on an incline and the engine needs to downshift from 3rd to 2nd to recover, this issue happens. If I switch to manual mode and ease off the gas pedal while manually shifting from 3rd to 2nd, the jolt doesn't occur. However, if I shift while keeping my foot on the gas pedal in manual mode, the jolt happens just like in automatic mode. What do you think could be the problem? Do you have any guesses? The local mechanics here have suggested a complete transmission replacement, which is very expensive. Since the problem occurs only during this specific gear shift, I would prefer not to replace the entire transmission. Is there a simpler solution? I would greatly appreciate your response. Best regards.
How many liters of transmission carry those automatic boxes is bad if you go over the level of a 1994 toyota corolla and how much does it take to do the service to the box
hi, you always go by measuring what comes out, but make sure you check as per manufacturers recommendation regarding temp etc. do not over fill as fluid will expand and can aerate causing issues. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Where can i buy the park pawl for my 2009 ford focus?
Hi great video, very informative. I am thinking of tackling on this rebuild for my Mazda FN4AEL - I am not a professional by any means. I have the basic knowledge of how stuff works, I've been working on cars for a long time as a weekend warrior backyard mechanic. I just want to ask how difficult would this rebuild be on a scale of 1-10? I'm guessing by looking at your videos it would be around a 6-7, but what would you say?
hi, I'd say nowhere near 6/7, these are an easy rebuild, hardest job is getting it out of vehicle. cheers
on these you can even get most out through side cover without even removing from vehicle....checkout my other vids cheers
Awesome, thanks for your reply. I will check out the other videos. One more question, does the 2005 Mazda 3 have a TCM? I cannot find it and I am stumped...
hi, should be near battery....try google location and images. cheers
I have no movement in the lower servo bolt
Is it supposed to click in alittle when applying a new band?
hi, not quite sure what you mean by click? band needs to have some freeplay, if too tight will burn when it isn`t being applied. cheers
Hello, I'm about to start sorting out my Mazda 3 without 3rd or 4th gear. I was told to replace the "Direct Drum" 3-4, and the Ring Seals. You mention something about where the Ring Seals seat at the 8:30 mark in your video, that they get worn out. I was wondering is this a part you can replace? It looks like it's attached to the side cover. Keep in mind I haven't pulled anything apart yet and I'm just going by looks on the video. Also, I'm trying to leave trans in car and do this as cheaply as possible. I know this video is old and appreciate any advice, cheers.
hi, have you watched my other 4f27e vids? this one shows how you would do in car repair and how much you can access th-cam.com/video/CRC_x7cnAHQ/w-d-xo.html . pardon all my umms , hope there are some beers for me ! cheers
@@YepThatsIt Always a beer for you, ha ha. Thanks for that. I'm concerned about getting the new rings(seals) to seat and seal on the support
@@smugdoug you will need to contact me on face book link for parts. cheers
@@YepThatsIt Will do
Hello and let me first say thank you for your video it is a very helpful asking if you could please point me in the right direction I have the same transmission in a focus all of my gear shift out fine 1 2 3 neutral and reverse but when it shifts to 4th it just revs like it's in neutral if I let the car slow down it engages third again, where might i start looking? My shift solenoids are fine I have even replaced solenoid A still no luck
hi, try the band adjustment. the bore on the case where the 2-4 band servo piston rod runs can be worn out. end cover rings not sealing properly. cheers
Hi bud , great video I’ve got a 2012 Ford fiesta with this 4 speed box in. Gear 1&2 drives fine , shifts to 3rd and it revs like hell ! You still have drive in the gear at the high rpm same as 4th .. any idea ?
TIA Tom
hi, sounds like a pressure leak somewhere. check all the basics first before you remove trans pan and you can remove vbody and air pressure the apply ports. see our other vids on th-cam.com/video/qDXkAOP9vos/w-d-xo.html cheers
I turkey Istanbul from you I have a tool that will be a question of protons brand, model 1998 Mitsubishi vehicle with the engine automatic transmission's my problem means I'm running but not moving is doing a very slow start automatic transmission I made new, but the car cıktı solenoid problem spot is not coming up, how do we solve, you must help me
hi, sorry just found your comment in youtubes spam. contact me on my face book link facebook.com/Yep-Thats-It-103051017785435/ and leave me which kind of vehicle/transmission type you have, and leave a detailed description of any fault codes and issue you are having ( we are able to exchange pics/diagrams on there ) and details of what work you have already performed or checked...... you will need to buy me some beers ( link is in face book ) and I will answer your questions accordingly. cheers
very good video
thanks and cheers
You did this with no factory special tools and only your hook/screwdriver self-made tool? That’s impressive...
What is the document you referenced? Are the parts OE from Mazda or aftermarket?
I have 2004 Mazda3s (USA) FNK2 trans that I expect to need this if I keep it long. Any known weak points on this trans?
Your descriptions and camera work are exceptional. Extra points for all the appropriate closeups.
Hi, thanks for that ;-) haha my old man always said " the tools are only as good as the person using them " The manuals we usually use are ATSG - Automatic Transmission Service Group ( you may even find a free version if you google it ). Id say the weak points are if this transmission is not serviced regularly with filter replacement and cleaning trans pan and magnet. Basically any transmission kept cool and clean will last a lot longer. They also got rid of the adjustable band bolt, so you need to change it to an adjustable type to get the most out of the band. The servo piston bore in case is also prone to wearing out quite often ( as well as the anchor bracket on the band bending slightly which also throws out the band adjustment ). I like the fact that often you can repair these without the need to remove the trans ( that is..if the torque converter and forward clutch pack are ok ) good luck and cheers
YepThatsIt
Thanks for the additional info.
Are the replacement parts you use OE Mazda or aftermarket?
Cheers.
aftermarket
YepThatsIt
Is there a maker you prefer? In this “one world” market it might be available from my local suppliers...
2010 2.0 mazda 3. 2nd to 3rd upshifts getting a rattle.any idea's?
hi, do some more testing/analysis after you check all the basics first. cheers
hi can you upgrade from a 4f27e gearbox to a fnr5 gearbox
hi, never done it, so no idea how easy or difficult. cheers
Hi,
I don't have any fault code. Mazda 121 Metro Shades 2001.
It takes a few second for drive to engage but reverse engages straight away.
The engine revs up when shifting from 1st to 2nd if I keep pressing the accelerator and eventually shifts to 2nd. issue is more sever when transmission is hot.
But If I release the accelerator like how I would do on a manual car then it goes to 2nd easily. (Almost like driving a manual car for 1st to 2nd gear change)
Rest of the gears including reverse is very smooth including down shifting.
I found the front engine mount has been separated and I have ordered a new one.
Any thoughts on what it might be?
(I will get a newer car once used car price comes down a bit. I will be happy if I can get another 5-10K out of it without the gear change issue. currently on 298K.)
hi, check all the basics first, most often on these the solenoids are contaminated /worn or leaking. cheers
Air test @ 20:60
hi, what atf oil you use? thanks
hi, we like to use tritech lubricants or penrite brands. cheers
That transmission is a crap...
hi, only when it isn`t running properly. cheers
YepThatsIt my transmission mazda 3 always clunk when reverse...
I say its a crap transmission because its really crap
hi, check your cv joints and rubber mounts...a mount might be torn and lifting when in reverse. cheers