Just changed the fluid in my 07' accord but noticing more when I let off the gas feels like the trans isn't locked. Drives and shifts fine only when I let off the gas 🤔
I have an 06 canyon that I suspect has a bad solenoid it has reverse and all forward gears but only if I shift them manually for instance when I put it in Drive its like a second neutral but if I put it in 1 amd shift it manually it will go through all the gears and even overdrive if Im in drive and already at speed whats your thoughts
My 2007 grand marquis needs something done because I drive in o/d. Been doing that since I purchased the car. Now the transmission is doing some wacky stuff, basically everything named in the video besides complete failure. Help!
VW DSG09 transmissions are notorious for valve body (shift solenoid) problems. Changing the ATF will not fix the problem of hard shifting and flares. There are some good videos on TH-cam all about this VW transmission. Don't undertake this job if you are not confident in your abilities and have good jack stands and hydraulic jacks for backup. Always stay safe before getting under a car!
All true on the safety aspects! I don't use any jacks etc. I just cram my ass under my '05 Sorento & fix it about 2 inches in front of my face. Old country boy here! Tough as nails! Stupid too! :)
Hi. Great video. My question is that my Honda civic 2005 Automatic transmission Car cannot move on Drive and reverse. But very slowly and after some meters running coming on nuteral and not moving on giving accelerator. What problem?
I have a subaru and took it to the dealership they recommend a flush and if that doesn't work a new transmission.... I bet getting a flush and replacing the solenoid will resolve the issues....
I have an 05 monte carlo and the engine light came on. It started shifting hard and slightly delayed. However the codes all point to an 02 censor bank 1 censor 2. Im gonna replces the o2 censor see what happens and probly take off the transmission pan and see the fluid quantity.
My 2001 Infiniti I30t obd2 shows code for celioniod transmission assembly but it shifts smoothly however do hear scratching noises on 1st and 2nd gears sometimes. It has 163,000 miles.
I would get two diagnosis as too the problem, I have a car with over 200k miles and same transmission, I had the solenoids and magnets cleaned once since I had it and new transmission fluid and filter every 5 years.
When I engage in reverse, it jerks and moves smoothly but sometimes does not move at all. When drive is engaged, it sometimes skips 1 and moves to 2. It jerks when changing from 2 to 3 and the engine RPM will raise as if it enters natural before 3 is engaged. It does not engage 4 & 5 at all even when speed and acceleration is increased. When the car is stopped or speed reduced, it remains in gear 3 most of the time except if the can is brought to a total halt. Whey could be the problem; solenoids, verve body or what?
What is it when the transmission won't go into drive when cold but I can either turn the O/D off or put it in "2"/"1" and it goes into gear just fine? Once warmed up it is perfectly fine.
@BakaRed77 have you changed the filter and fluid. I've always heard that when your vehicle has hard time cold then fine when warm it usually means your transmission fluid is done or has been burnt or just not doing its job anymore. Everyone does know that you should change your transmission fluid around every 30-60,000 miles don't they? If you haven't changed it ....change it and the filter. And I get that some people say don't change it and guess what I do I change it anyway and have never had a problem one with it killing the tranny. And I've changed some nasty transmission fluid, the kind that will gag ya when smelling it
I’m getting a P0720 with AT light on my dash. I thought I solved the code by replacing the output speed sensor, but it came back weeks later. I drive a 2011 Mazda 3 2.5L so if y’all have any advice I’d greatly appreciate it.
is a car repairable when its having a delayed shifting and jerk . the reverse is delayed for about 12-14 seconds before going but if my car is in cold start , the reverse is working properly my question is , should I change the shift solenoid? like from what you did?
I have a VW Golf 2012. It’s started making a grinding noise in reverse, like it’s not quite engaged. Retry a few times and eventually it will engage. Any ideas please ?
Thanks for this vedio. have an auto civic, After few minutes of start/move, Slipping happens then after not entering for gears. Then if starts again first minute or two work and over. Why this happens pls. Thanks.
2004 silverado 5.3 code 2761. Trans started slipping in 3rd. Showing intermittant battery light. Less than 30k on trans rebuild. Oil now dirty will replace. Question does the pesky intermittent battery light have anythi g to do with failing trans ?? I cleaned all my grounds. Gage shows alternator at 14. Tnx.
2007 Pontiac g6 I can move the shifter and It goes in reverse, neutral and manual but when in drive its stuck in neutral. What is this? I've had a new transmission filter change and still no luck
I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado with 240K miles. Transmission is not shifting out of first automatically. If I run the RPMs up to 3500 and let off of the gas, it shifts to the next gear. Is this indicative of a bad shift solenoid(s).
Would this cause rear tires to stop in reverse? Checked the pads and everything, everything seems ok there. Can’t figure out what’s wrong it’s a old Dodge 2001 dually.
Sir, when I put my 2008 Ford Explorer in Reverse and D, the vehicle does not move, but the RPM increases. However, when the gear lever is shifted to 3, the vehicle moves, indicating that it is capable of driving. Is it enough to change the solenoid pack to address the problem? I went to many local repair shops and described the situation, but they all told I needed to overhual the gearbox. What are your recommendations? Should I get a solenoid replaced and tested, or should I get a gearbox overhaul?
Sir, the update is that I went to the local transmission shop, and they said they would make the transmission okay. I got the vehicle after 4 days, and while testing it for 2 days, the wrench sign came back. it happen when put the leaver to R and jerk comes with wrench sign, I returned the vehicle to them, and they said there were codes on the ECM, which are solenoid B and C. They take the vehicle and replace the solenoid. Both the first and second solenoids are rebuilt. Again, I tested the vehicle for 2 days, and the wrench sign came back. I went to the shop again, and they said the same codes came back. They now believe the ECM is false. They also ask about the engine and transmission cabling, which I told them I replaced around 4 years ago. It means they are trying to blame this issue on the ECM and that their transmission rebuild or whatever they did was perfect. sir now suggestion what to do or where is the fault. Thank You
The bad news is that every transmission shop they're going to try to sell you a new one or rebuild it and it's 5k dollars and up this why everyone sell their car instead of fixing it
This is very common and it's sad that they will lie and tell you that you need a full transmission change rather than just swapping in a new solenoid pack. These shops are very dishonest because they make all their money on providing new or rebuilt transmissions, not doing a simple quick and inexpensive fix for the customer. This is why the videos advice to take your vehicle to a transmission shop is false because they have every motivation to tell you that your entire transmission is broken, rather than just the simple smaller component.
Dear . Please can you help me. I have an error in my car brilliance V5.. with reading o.... OD (ON/OFF) SOLENOID SHORTS TO BATTERY OR TO GROUND... PLEASE.. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM
Update on my '05 KIA Sorento with 205,000. Book says 2 quarts of transmission fluid when changing. I did. Didn't even show on stick. I cautiously added another quart, did it all by the book and using this video as a guide also. Nothing after 3 quarts. Added a 4th. Just started to appear at the bottom of the stick. Added a 5th. Got barely to the bottom cut of where it's supposed to be. Asked myself, should I add a 6th. quart? Remember, they only said 2. I didn't add another quart but did add 16 ounces or so of Barr's molasses. That got 'er at least inside the bottom cut/line whatever you want to call it. Anybody with a KIA Sorento ever experience this? Over 6 quarts when book called for 2.
My dodge grand caravan has a 62te transmission i had the transmission done less than 10000 miles ago. Now it is reving and not shifting into gears 2nd ect. Could it be the intermediate shaft speed sensor or something more serious
Looking into buying a dodge 08 Dakota with Trans problem aka owner says it jumps guessing means slipping .. anyways hope it's this simple and not a tourqe converter failure or full trans replacement sooner change fluid and solenoid... right lol
How many people will actually do this? Maybe one in a million. Most people today don’t even know or care how to check the oil much less open a transmission and replace parts.
Thanks for this video. My 98 Regal has a leak. Every now and then, it will not go into reverse. Is this due to the shift solenoid or something else. Would a flush and the obvious leak rpr do? Thanks!!
I have a 2015 nissan nv200 and I feel it it jerks when driving especially after a 5 minutes driving. By buddy said it's a transmission or could be a torque converter.
Theres one of the little pin in the selenoid A that is more losse then the other 3 very easy to pull . is this why my transmision slip to neutral after hitting 20kmh??
My car is a 2008 Pontiac G8 V6, when the car warm up it won't shift into gears. Then I turn off the engine for about 5 minutes then turn the car back on the transmission shifts once again. Its been doing this for awhile. What can I do to fix it? Any have advice on this...
I have a question about my 2WD 2011 Ford Ranger Automatic Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally. Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts. I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer. Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage. I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something. I have a question about my 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally. Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts. I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer. Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage. I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
Hello iam richy i have a 1993 hilux surf its a 2lte automatic 4*4 recently its had an issue with the gear shift the timing is not correct and 4th gear coming up its revving in 3rd gear once thea soeed is more thsn 100 it will shift can you help me eith that ?
I have a 04 Chevy 2500 hd it has the forward gears but no reverse gear strangely it will move a little bit in neutral in the reverse direction like fluid pressure is being applied to the reverse circuit but as soon as it moves to a small bump it stops it from moving anyone ever had this problem I checked the codes it has a 700 code flagged saying it’s something to do with the f solenoid
Im having issues with the 2016 exploder 4cyl ecoboost transmission. It tends to bang into reverse once you've only throttled up like its not getting pressure thru the solenoid. Ive had the reverse solinoids replaced twice. First time under warranty. Second time it never helped. I replaced the whole valve body and solinoids, and there was no change in the reverse bang. I've changed the fluid twice, with lucas aditive no change. I believe there is a glitch in adaptive learning. I've had it reset and still issues! It angers me after 100 years of design that computers are destroying transmissions when mechanical transmissions worked fine. Aaaaaaaaaah! Help!
I had a problem whereby the car slows down before entering gear 1 when you put it on drive. But changes changes and downshift a well oncws it finally enter gear. It turns out that two of the transmission selenoid went bad. I had it replaced and the problem stopped.
My dodge Durango won't go put it in drive or reverse. It won't move I did the other day start it an left the jump box on it an it wanted to go forward just not in reverse.bur after awhile it would not even want to go forward an started making noise sounded like it came from the converter like it was empty
When I back out the garage in the morning, everything is fine. When I shift into drive to take off, there’s a delay. This doesn’t happen always, it mostly happens when it’s cold outside.
My camry also won't drive forward would you like to tell me how do you fix the problem .I am from Macedonia and my toyota camry is only and one on the whole state I import from USA and mehanic doesn't know how to fix thanks
I have an 04 pilot that drives normal, but has recently started to fall into a false neutral. See you when you stop at a stop sign or we’re going real slow around the corner it doese it but if I put it in D2 I can take off again and then put it back in the drive and it’s normal. Any ideas on what’s going on there?
I figured out that my problem was the cv axel on the passenger side poped out of place. Seems to be working now so maybe look in to that...good luck man
Please kindly help me i have a problem with my nissan qashqai 1.6 automatic 2015 .the mechanic diagnosed it with a P2815 Pressure Control Selonoid Valve G problem.Please kindly help me as i cannot find any qualified technician to help me fix it.I reside in Sheffield South Yorkshire.
I have a 2010 scion XP in the mornings when I start the car I’ll put it in drive. I have to sit and wait about 10 to 15 minutes before it catches dry but once it catches dry all gear shift normal and there’s only happens when the car sits for a while and gets cold, can anybody help me?
Am using 2004 honda Accord 3.0 v6 My problem is whn i kick full acceleration rip goes high and rpm is cutting off.. not shifting to next gear .but when i drive normally all gears are shifting normal.. only in full throttle rpm is cutting and not shifting anyone knw why?
Im getting a p0757 code on my 2006 Honda Odyssey. From what I read, its from a Bad B solenoid. Hoping my problem is fixed after replacing this part! I first suspected this problem when my (D) drive light was flashing, then the check engine light came on. But For some weird reason, the lights have dissapeared from my dash. No check engine light, No D light flashing. Van seems to be running normal, but im still getting the error code when I put a scanner to it. Hoping the replacement fixes this issue! Anybody else have a solenoid problem with a honda odyssey?
Solenoids causing leaks????? Um, all solenoids are in a enclosed environment. Inside, in the shell.. Look at all ZF transmission.. even some of the Older ford focus solenoids. All enclosed? how you gonna cause a leak like that?
Also I don't trust any mechanic you take it to a transmission place they're going to tell you it's going to cost 3 to $5,000. They're all about the money that's all they are about. I've never found a mechanic that doesn't rip you off actually only one in my entire life so far but he is no longer in business. Mechanics are money hungry rip offs most of them
I always get two diagnosis, this always will tell if a mechanic is honest or not, I also brought a code reader of Amazon $20 and can read my own codes so I already know whats wrong with my car b4 I bring it in to the shop and will see if they tell me anything different since I already read the codes prior to bringing the car in. Also Ammco does free check ups on transmissions and will also read codes for free.
When you add fluid. Start car, manually shift through gears. Check and fill as needed. Add a couple quarts of atf before you start the procedure. (Car off)
Ive got an interesting one. 2004 camry 2.4. Put in drive/reverse runs correctly for about 2-3 minutes. After that everything goes into neutral no matter shifter position. Let it cool off and it repeats. I thought tcu was getting hot so i put salvage on and exact same thing. During the 2-3 minutes it works correctly, it will spin the tires, so not clutches. Im thinking electrical, possibly a solenoid because it seems like something is getting hot. It loses any movement after couple minutes. Once cool and restarted, the movement returns but only for 2-3 minutes. No slipping clutches. It's either working or it's not. Like a switch gets flipped. U241E. Would a specific solenoid cause a complete neutral situation? Any ideas please?
@@ericmccain6924 after trying the new ecu/tcu and it did exactly same thing, I thought possibly a fluid restriction so I pulled pan. Some sediment but no metal pieces or chunks. Filter looked clogged so I put new filter and fluid. Now it shifts ok but will randomly freak out and do different things. Sometimes it will hesitate between gears, last time I was cruising in second gear and it shifted to first for no apparent reason. I'm thinking it might be a speed sensor but still not throwing any codes. Don't want to just throw parts at it $$. I have access to a u250e I might could get vss Off tranny if they are same. Gotta check.
This video deserves a comment . Straight to the point . I fkn love it GREAT JOB !
Just changed the fluid in my 07' accord but noticing more when I let off the gas feels like the trans isn't locked. Drives and shifts fine only when I let off the gas 🤔
Who here suspects they have a Bad Shift Solenoid?
I have an 06 canyon that I suspect has a bad solenoid it has reverse and all forward gears but only if I shift them manually for instance when I put it in Drive its like a second neutral but if I put it in 1 amd shift it manually it will go through all the gears and even overdrive if Im in drive and already at speed whats your thoughts
My transmission shifts from first to second but shifting into third it's shifts back to first
I do... Is it advisable to change the whole gearbox
Not me. I just enjoy learning
My 2007 grand marquis needs something done because I drive in o/d. Been doing that since I purchased the car. Now the transmission is doing some wacky stuff, basically everything named in the video besides complete failure. Help!
VW DSG09 transmissions are notorious for valve body (shift solenoid) problems. Changing the ATF will not fix the problem of hard shifting and flares. There are some good videos on TH-cam all about this VW transmission. Don't undertake this job if you are not confident in your abilities and have good jack stands and hydraulic jacks for backup. Always stay safe before getting under a car!
Currently in this situation 🥲
All true on the safety aspects! I don't use any jacks etc. I just cram my ass under my '05 Sorento & fix it about 2 inches in front of my face. Old country boy here! Tough as nails! Stupid too! :)
I hate German Cars
Hi. Great video. My question is that my Honda civic 2005 Automatic transmission Car cannot move on Drive and reverse. But very slowly and after some meters running coming on nuteral and not moving on giving accelerator. What problem?
I had similar problems in my '05 Sorento. I just changed the transmission fluid & filter. Didn't check solenlids at all. Works great now!
This is the absolute best video online!
The Aisin transmission in the VW(German Car) is made in Japan fyi.
I have a subaru and took it to the dealership they recommend a flush and if that doesn't work a new transmission.... I bet getting a flush and replacing the solenoid will resolve the issues....
It did mine! Works like new now!
Don't flush if it's high mileage. Trust me just do a drain and fill
Make sure you read your owner manual to see what kind of transmission fluid your car requires. Listen to your owner manual above the mechanic.
I have an 05 monte carlo and the engine light came on. It started shifting hard and slightly delayed. However the codes all point to an 02 censor bank 1 censor 2. Im gonna replces the o2 censor see what happens and probly take off the transmission pan and see the fluid quantity.
My 2001 Infiniti I30t obd2 shows code for celioniod transmission assembly but it shifts smoothly however do hear scratching noises on 1st and 2nd gears sometimes. It has 163,000 miles.
I would get two diagnosis as too the problem, I have a car with over 200k miles and same transmission, I had the solenoids and magnets cleaned once since I had it and new transmission fluid and filter every 5 years.
Thanks I got a 02 avalanche and yeah it definitely does all of these but changed good in first second gear
You got a update on it ?
I’m having that issue but I think my ecm need a flash
When I engage in reverse, it jerks and moves smoothly but sometimes does not move at all.
When drive is engaged, it sometimes skips 1 and moves to 2. It jerks when changing from 2 to 3 and the engine RPM will raise as if it enters natural before 3 is engaged.
It does not engage 4 & 5 at all even when speed and acceleration is increased.
When the car is stopped or speed reduced, it remains in gear 3 most of the time except if the can is brought to a total halt.
Whey could be the problem; solenoids, verve body or what?
What is it when the transmission won't go into drive when cold but I can either turn the O/D off or put it in "2"/"1" and it goes into gear just fine? Once warmed up it is perfectly fine.
i have issues when cold aswell
Honda Accord 2004 fwd
@BakaRed77 have you changed the filter and fluid. I've always heard that when your vehicle has hard time cold then fine when warm it usually means your transmission fluid is done or has been burnt or just not doing its job anymore. Everyone does know that you should change your transmission fluid around every 30-60,000 miles don't they? If you haven't changed it ....change it and the filter. And I get that some people say don't change it and guess what I do I change it anyway and have never had a problem one with it killing the tranny. And I've changed some nasty transmission fluid, the kind that will gag ya when smelling it
I’m getting a P0720 with AT light on my dash. I thought I solved the code by replacing the output speed sensor, but it came back weeks later. I drive a 2011 Mazda 3 2.5L so if y’all have any advice I’d greatly appreciate it.
Best is to replace valve body with TCM that will solve the problem
So how’d you fix it ?
Just replaced the shift solenoid in my neighbors durango. The owner was going to scrap it until I fixed it then he gave me the title. 😂
😂
is a car repairable when its having a delayed shifting and jerk . the reverse is delayed for about 12-14 seconds before going
but if my car is in cold start , the reverse is working properly
my question is , should I change the shift solenoid? like from what you did?
U need to b my mechanic, I'm getting alot of prb
I have a VW Golf 2012. It’s started making a grinding noise in reverse, like it’s not quite engaged. Retry a few times and eventually it will engage. Any ideas please ?
Please help, I drive a 2004 toyota corolla.
There is not enough accelerating power when I select on D AND 2,But reverse and L2 Works perfectly
Did u ever get it fixed??? I have similar issue. When getting into first gear. With my 07 Lexus IS250
Thanks for this vedio.
have an auto civic, After few minutes of start/move, Slipping happens then after not entering for gears.
Then if starts again first minute or two work and over.
Why this happens pls.
Thanks.
2004 silverado 5.3 code 2761. Trans started slipping in 3rd. Showing intermittant battery light. Less than 30k on trans rebuild. Oil now dirty will replace. Question does the pesky intermittent battery light have anythi g to do with failing trans ?? I cleaned all my grounds. Gage shows alternator at 14. Tnx.
2007 Pontiac g6 I can move the shifter and It goes in reverse, neutral and manual but when in drive its stuck in neutral. What is this? I've had a new transmission filter change and still no luck
I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado with 240K miles. Transmission is not shifting out of first automatically. If I run the RPMs up to 3500 and let off of the gas, it shifts to the next gear. Is this indicative of a bad shift solenoid(s).
Any updates my 2004 Izuzu dmax does the same
Would this cause rear tires to stop in reverse? Checked the pads and everything, everything seems ok there. Can’t figure out what’s wrong it’s a old Dodge 2001 dually.
Sounds like a rear end reverse gear
Sir, when I put my 2008 Ford Explorer in Reverse and D, the vehicle does not move, but the RPM increases. However, when the gear lever is shifted to 3, the vehicle moves, indicating that it is capable of driving.
Is it enough to change the solenoid pack to address the problem?
I went to many local repair shops and described the situation, but they all told I needed to overhual the gearbox.
What are your recommendations? Should I get a solenoid replaced and tested, or should I get a gearbox overhaul?
In any cases you have to change valves + oil. If it doesn't help then you will need to disassemble the gearbox..
Sir, the update is that I went to the local transmission shop, and they said they would make the transmission okay. I got the vehicle after 4 days, and while testing it for 2 days, the wrench sign came back. it happen when put the leaver to R and jerk comes with wrench sign,
I returned the vehicle to them, and they said there were codes on the ECM, which are solenoid B and C.
They take the vehicle and replace the solenoid. Both the first and second solenoids are rebuilt.
Again, I tested the vehicle for 2 days, and the wrench sign came back. I went to the shop again, and they said the same codes came back.
They now believe the ECM is false. They also ask about the engine and transmission cabling, which I told them I replaced around 4 years ago.
It means they are trying to blame this issue on the ECM and that their transmission rebuild or whatever they did was perfect.
sir now suggestion what to do or where is the fault. Thank You
What are the reasons for the 20-minute delay in engaging the Daihatsu automatic transmission?
It's a Daihatsu
Yes @@davidleavitt3804
does a bad shift solenoid keep a 2000 honda civic from going in every gear but drive?
The bad news is that every transmission shop they're going to try to sell you a new one or rebuild it and it's 5k dollars and up this why everyone sell their car instead of fixing it
Tell em to go fuck themselves and either they buy the parts that are needed to fix and it and fix it, or you take it to another shop
This is very common and it's sad that they will lie and tell you that you need a full transmission change rather than just swapping in a new solenoid pack. These shops are very dishonest because they make all their money on providing new or rebuilt transmissions, not doing a simple quick and inexpensive fix for the customer. This is why the videos advice to take your vehicle to a transmission shop is false because they have every motivation to tell you that your entire transmission is broken, rather than just the simple smaller component.
Dodge dealer wants to charge me $7000 to put new rransmission in
@@TheChenrezig....and many people fall for it, especially women with clueless husbands or boyfriends!
@@davidburchell2882 just sold my hemi ram and got me a Chevy v8 for fucks sake
Trans runs good but won’t shift rpm’s keep going. Would shift solinoid cause this?
Dear . Please can you help me. I have an error in my car brilliance V5.. with reading o.... OD (ON/OFF) SOLENOID SHORTS TO BATTERY OR TO GROUND... PLEASE.. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM
Hi, just got a tyranny code, check engine light, did the oil in the transmission, and still came on .Thx for info .
What was the code
Update on my '05 KIA Sorento with 205,000. Book says 2 quarts of transmission fluid when changing. I did. Didn't even show on stick. I cautiously added another quart, did it all by the book and using this video as a guide also. Nothing after 3 quarts. Added a 4th. Just started to appear at the bottom of the stick. Added a 5th. Got barely to the bottom cut of where it's supposed to be. Asked myself, should I add a 6th. quart? Remember, they only said 2. I didn't add another quart but did add 16 ounces or so of Barr's molasses. That got 'er at least inside the bottom cut/line whatever you want to call it. Anybody with a KIA Sorento ever experience this? Over 6 quarts when book called for 2.
You’re supposed to check dipstick of trans while engine is running
My dodge grand caravan has a 62te transmission i had the transmission done less than 10000 miles ago. Now it is reving and not shifting into gears 2nd ect.
Could it be the intermediate shaft speed sensor or something more serious
My 93 is doing the same I'm won't shift out of first, and I Idoling high/reving .
Did you find a solution?
Looking into buying a dodge 08 Dakota with Trans problem aka owner says it jumps guessing means slipping .. anyways hope it's this simple and not a tourqe converter failure or full trans replacement sooner change fluid and solenoid... right lol
I have a Nissan Altima 2006, engine laboring in gear, and pretty much in park as well, while stopped at a light. Not looking forward to the Dx.
How many people will actually do this? Maybe one in a million. Most people today don’t even know or care how to check the oil much less open a transmission and replace parts.
very true mate !!
Hi I have polo 1.4 2008 from Malawi BKY automatic is not charging automatically what is problem I need help
Hi my nissan tiida 2013 model d drive not working cooling time please advise..
Thanks for this video. My 98 Regal has a leak. Every now and then, it will not go into reverse. Is this due to the shift solenoid or something else. Would a flush and the obvious leak rpr do? Thanks!!
I have the same problem here...I replaced my fluid and leak..and seemed to get a bit worse...hope this helps
This was an excellent video. Very well done!!
I have a 2015 nissan nv200 and I feel it it jerks when driving especially after a 5 minutes driving. By buddy said it's a transmission or could be a torque converter.
Theres one of the little pin in the selenoid A that is more losse then the other 3 very easy to pull . is this why my transmision slip to neutral after hitting 20kmh??
My Nissan cube struggles to reverse on on incline...but reverses well on a flat surface..all other gears are ok..plz help....
Is this a transmission control module?
My car is a 2008 Pontiac G8 V6, when the car warm up it won't shift into gears. Then I turn off the engine for about 5 minutes then turn the car back on the transmission shifts once again. Its been doing this for awhile.
What can I do to fix it? Any have advice on this...
Thanks, very well explained
I have an automatic and after i back up and shift from reverse to drive, it does a quick rev up before i can move forward. Is that normal?
does a shift solenoid affect the transmission going into overdrive?
I have a question about my 2WD 2011 Ford Ranger Automatic Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally.
Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts.
I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer.
Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage.
I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
I have a question about my 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally.
Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts.
I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer.
Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage.
I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
Hello iam richy i have a 1993 hilux surf its a 2lte automatic 4*4 recently its had an issue with the gear shift the timing is not correct and 4th gear coming up its revving in 3rd gear once thea soeed is more thsn 100 it will shift can you help me eith that ?
I have a 04 Chevy 2500 hd it has the forward gears but no reverse gear strangely it will move a little bit in neutral in the reverse direction like fluid pressure is being applied to the reverse circuit but as soon as it moves to a small bump it stops it from moving anyone ever had this problem I checked the codes it has a 700 code flagged saying it’s something to do with the f solenoid
I have everything working in 97 corvette except 5-6 won’t work. Reverse also works could this be it?
Thank you you are the best no I know what could be wrong with my transmission
please explain how a bad shift solenoid can cause a transmission leak.
The third gear in my truck won't catch? Can I just powerglide?
I have 83 caprice that’s doing the same thing. You figure it out?
@@Ry77x had to get it rebuilt by a older retired transmission guy. But when I drove it I didn't go over 35 miles
@@Ry77x I figured as long as long as I keep the rpms below 2000 I was good
@@jpowe2822 thanks for the reply man
Im having issues with the 2016 exploder 4cyl ecoboost transmission. It tends to bang into reverse once you've only throttled up like its not getting pressure thru the solenoid. Ive had the reverse solinoids replaced twice. First time under warranty. Second time it never helped. I replaced the whole valve body and solinoids, and there was no change in the reverse bang. I've changed the fluid twice, with lucas aditive no change. I believe there is a glitch in adaptive learning. I've had it reset and still issues! It angers me after 100 years of design that computers are destroying transmissions when mechanical transmissions worked fine. Aaaaaaaaaah! Help!
I had a problem whereby the car slows down before entering gear 1 when you put it on drive. But changes changes and downshift a well oncws it finally enter gear. It turns out that two of the transmission selenoid went bad. I had it replaced and the problem stopped.
My dodge Durango won't go put it in drive or reverse. It won't move I did the other day start it an left the jump box on it an it wanted to go forward just not in reverse.bur after awhile it would not even want to go forward an started making noise sounded like it came from the converter like it was empty
When I back out the garage in the morning, everything is fine. When I shift into drive to take off, there’s a delay. This doesn’t happen always, it mostly happens when it’s cold outside.
Me too
@@edwardzamorski3711 what does it mean????!!!! lol
Can bad solenoid drain battery ?
What about if my car just simply won’t drive forward? It goes into reverse , it shifts gears, just won’t drive forward.
Check your transmission fluid level.
Most likely low or dirty.
I'd recommend you change it
Pressure control solenoid
RIP in advance
U ever fix your car
My camry also won't drive forward would you like to tell me how do you fix the problem .I am from Macedonia and my toyota camry is only and one on the whole state I import from USA and mehanic doesn't know how to fix thanks
Just happened to my 2022 silverado 3.0 duramax , code P0747 20 k miles on it now back to the dealer to check issue.
I have an 04 pilot that drives normal, but has recently started to fall into a false neutral. See you when you stop at a stop sign or we’re going real slow around the corner it doese it but if I put it in D2 I can take off again and then put it back in the drive and it’s normal. Any ideas on what’s going on there?
Did you figure out what the problem was?
@@chevyman2067 no ?
I figured out that my problem was the cv axel on the passenger side poped out of place. Seems to be working now so maybe look in to that...good luck man
2012 Ford Raptor. Won’t start. Battery good. Drove fine. Won’t start. I was thinking that it is in the linkage. Turn the key and won’t turn over.
Unfortunately my 18 impala is slipping, but NO code at all.
When I get up to 70mph the Engine ribs up? Could these be the problem? Anyone
Thanks this help alot.
Very informative! 🎉
Please kindly help me i have a problem with my nissan qashqai 1.6 automatic 2015 .the mechanic diagnosed it with a P2815 Pressure Control Selonoid Valve G problem.Please kindly help me as i cannot find any qualified technician to help me fix it.I reside in Sheffield South Yorkshire.
I have a 2010 scion XP in the mornings when I start the car I’ll put it in drive. I have to sit and wait about 10 to 15 minutes before it catches dry but once it catches dry all gear shift normal and there’s only happens when the car sits for a while and gets cold, can anybody help me?
When I put my car to drive it doesn't move when putting on jack i turn wheels with a hand
I got P17FO code for my car
Can anyone explain about it please
Did anyone fix this issue?
Can codes for gearratio monitoring
Some professionals are failing us
Let us go back to cars that were simple. All this solenoid and fluid is doing my head in.... lol
I agree
Please let me know how to fix it
🦉..Great information, thank you..👍🙏
Nicely done. Thanks
I have been experiencing the same thing
Am using 2004 honda Accord 3.0 v6
My problem is whn i kick full acceleration rip goes high and rpm is cutting off.. not shifting to next gear .but when i drive normally all gears are shifting normal.. only in full throttle rpm is cutting and not shifting anyone knw why?
Im getting a p0757 code on my 2006 Honda Odyssey. From what I read, its from a Bad B solenoid. Hoping my problem is fixed after replacing this part! I first suspected this problem when my (D) drive light was flashing, then the check engine light came on. But For some weird reason, the lights have dissapeared from my dash. No check engine light, No D light flashing. Van seems to be running normal, but im still getting the error code when I put a scanner to it. Hoping the replacement fixes this issue! Anybody else have a solenoid problem with a honda odyssey?
Solenoids causing leaks?????
Um, all solenoids are in a enclosed environment. Inside, in the shell..
Look at all ZF transmission.. even some of the Older ford focus solenoids. All enclosed? how you gonna cause a leak like that?
You'd only get a leak from the oil pan or torque converter seal. Or the oil cooler.
My 1992 Buick Roadmaster Wagon is having trouble accelerating making whining noise 😩
Well explain boss, thank you
I rebuild my 2000 Astro one year ago and started to kick on first gear
How do you know it's not the Throttle sensor ?
A bad throttle sensor allows you to move gears and if you scan the car throttle sensor codes will come out
What the fuck are yall talking about the guy makes more sense than you 2 put together
@@juliuscaesar756 relax emperor stop using drugs they are killing you
My Toyota sienna 2005 the drive is not working when the engine is hot that is when drive
So if there’s any issues with your transmission then it can be indicative of a shift solenoid
Great video thanks
Well explained
I have a 2006 Chevy impala that only shifts hard from start off. Anyone out there with knowledge on this problem please comment. Thanks!
how do you think professions became professionals
nice video bro
Also I don't trust any mechanic you take it to a transmission place they're going to tell you it's going to cost 3 to $5,000. They're all about the money that's all they are about. I've never found a mechanic that doesn't rip you off actually only one in my entire life so far but he is no longer in business. Mechanics are money hungry rip offs most of them
I always get two diagnosis, this always will tell if a mechanic is honest or not, I also brought a code reader of Amazon $20 and can read my own codes so I already know whats wrong with my car b4 I bring it in to the shop and will see if they tell me anything different since I already read the codes prior to bringing the car in. Also Ammco does free check ups on transmissions and will also read codes for free.
When you add fluid. Start car, manually shift through gears. Check and fill as needed. Add a couple quarts of atf before you start the procedure. (Car off)
Never have I ever imagined AI videos on car problems would exist
Nothing mention on Reverse.
Putting it Reverse.
Hard shift when i put in Reverse
Where you able to fix this I am having the same issue too
@@fozzyyiyou probably have bad motor mounts.
So the problem is the shift solenoid on my 2009 honda civic exl 🤦🏾♂️ 😢
Need to be near 4k revs before car suddenly lurches forward. Thinking its transfer case
Ive got an interesting one. 2004 camry 2.4. Put in drive/reverse runs correctly for about 2-3 minutes. After that everything goes into neutral no matter shifter position. Let it cool off and it repeats. I thought tcu was getting hot so i put salvage on and exact same thing. During the 2-3 minutes it works correctly, it will spin the tires, so not clutches. Im thinking electrical, possibly a solenoid because it seems like something is getting hot. It loses any movement after couple minutes. Once cool and restarted, the movement returns but only for 2-3 minutes. No slipping clutches. It's either working or it's not. Like a switch gets flipped. U241E. Would a specific solenoid cause a complete neutral situation? Any ideas please?
Did you fix this issue?
@@ericmccain6924 after trying the new ecu/tcu and it did exactly same thing, I thought possibly a fluid restriction so I pulled pan. Some sediment but no metal pieces or chunks. Filter looked clogged so I put new filter and fluid. Now it shifts ok but will randomly freak out and do different things. Sometimes it will hesitate between gears, last time I was cruising in second gear and it shifted to first for no apparent reason. I'm thinking it might be a speed sensor but still not throwing any codes. Don't want to just throw parts at it $$. I have access to a u250e I might could get vss Off tranny if they are same. Gotta check.
Hi. Did you fix it? I have the same
problem. First i replaced the whole
transmission and after 3months it
started doing the same thing. Any
feedback?
Cold runs good but once it gets hot the transmission stops working
@@galaxyhome4387 I haven't had a chance to mess with it. Lots of rain where I'm at. What is the make and model of your transmission?
Nice video
My Ford Explorer XLT made a noise that sounded like the auto t