The torque spec for all the technical Andy's out there for the coil pack is 80 inch pounds not 13 foot pounds. Honestly just wrist tight is fine. Thanks for watching!
I wish people would stop being so critical… This man made this video to help us and it is very thorough and has answered many questions, these videos take quite a bit of time to make so please be respectful .... Also for people who would like to know he even provided a link to the Spark plugs in answer to someone’s question.
I didnt remove the airbox and i didnt disconnect the last clip to the coil. They left just enough lead so you dont have to disconnect the coils. It was super easy. I did replace the air filter while i was thinking about it. Thanks for the video
Thanks. I just did this with the help of this video. A couple of little things that might make things easier: You don't have to remove the top of the air box. You don't have to unplug all the coil packs, except the one on the far right (the hardest one to access X| ). Just be careful not to yank the wires when you pull out the coil packs. If the spark plug gets stuck in the socket, try pushing into the the threads from different sides to unbind the spark plug from the socket. Put a rag between the threads and whatever you're pushing against to protect the surfaces that are in contact. In my case, pushing with my thumb was enough, but you might be need more leverage and/or want to avoid the threads cutting your thumb. If you want to try more force, try pushing against something like a work surface. If you are really paranoid, I suppose you can grease the inside of the socket before attempting to remove the spark plug. Not really sure if I needed to do this procedure, but I've had this car for more than 50 kmiles, so I know the spark plugs are at least that old (the car has done 133 k miles total). I tried to find pictures online of "healthy" spark plugs, and it's kind of hard to say whether mine were ok. If I looked carefully, I could see a little bit of a shiny surface on both electrodes. My guess is that even if that is the case, the spark plugs could be not performing as well as they should. After this operation, I noticed that the engine started much more smoothly; no shuddering. My hope is that this will boost my efficiency and/or reduce emissions. Not really sure how to determine the latter (I recently passed California smog test), but time will tell if the former materializes.
EXCELLENT!!! I did it as you guide us and I made it. Thank you very much for your efforts, I know it required a lot of effort from your side to record, to edit and to publish the video!! You are the best!
Thanks for refreshing my memory before spark plug change. Worked on 2009 Prius, originally mine but since passed on to son. I unscrewed, moved fuse box. I only removed lid and 2 top bolts of air box, pulled up and forward to give an extra inch or so; not a full removal. I've done this car's spark plugs before without moving air box at all but a little more room is worth the compromise. I find using 2 short ratchet extensions work best get in there with the spark plug socket. I chose to use the Denso Iridium TT plugs.
Thank you for video. I did not take off air box but I did unbolt fuse box on firewall. If some one has less experience it would be better to remove air box to make it easier. Also I was able to leave wires on coil packs and just pull out of the way one at a time. One other suggestion if you do not have much experience when putting spark plug back in use the socket and exstension and get it started by hand first. they are fine threads so hold it verticle and start to tighten if you feel it binding turn it counter clockwise and to you feel it drop a bit then start to tighten again you should be able to tighten 90 percent by hand and finish with ratchet. DO NOT CROSS THREAD IT! That would involve removing head from engine.
Wupsie! I snapped off the bolt of the first coil-pack assy when trying to tighten it to your spec of 13 ft-lbs. 13 ft-lbs is the correct torque for only the spark plugs, not the coil-pack bolts. The torque for the coil-pack bolts is 82 inch-lbs (6.8 ft-lbs) - so 13 ft-lbs is almost double the correct torque. Luckily there was a piece of bolt sticking up that I could get a pair of pliers on to remove the remainder if the broken bolt. I borrowed a mounting bolt from the air filter box to replace the broken one, temporarily leaving the air filter box mounted with just one bolt while I drove to the hardware store and bought the correct replacement bolt (M6 x 30mm x 1) for the coil pack. Back home with the bolts replaced, all is well now. Otherwise, extremely helpful video, very clear. Thanks!
It snapped at 13? That is an extremely weak bolt. I did all mine to 13 and it felt right. Sorry you went through that. But good work on getting that M6 replacement bolt! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I found a post someplace else where the same thing happened to another guy. He was tightening without a torque wrench but said he was surprised at how easily it broke. His broke in the same place mine did - in the hollow 1/2 inch or so of unthreaded spacer created by the body of the coil pack. What happens is that as you tighten the bolt, the threads in the block are stretching the bolt downward with the head of the bolt holding back, so the "neck" of the bolt twists, then breaks in that unthreaded space. He researched and found the correct torque of 84 inch-lbs, or about 6.7 Ft-lbs - pretty low. Other videos I watched on the procedure don't use a torque wrench, but tighten the bolts "just snug", so that's what I did then for the rest, and all went well. I did get the new M6 bolt easily at an Ace Hdwr.
I purchased a spark plug remover\installer tool from Ebay but it does not have the ft torque tightening spec thing on it, can I still use it to tighten the spark plugs in its place? is the torque measurement when tightening important or should I just make sure it's tight enough using my installer tool?
Just did this and you definitely don’t have to do anything with the air box. Move the relay box and all four coils come right out without even unplugging them. Also the NGK web site specifically says to NOT use any anti seize with their plugs and there definitely isn’t any used by Toyota at the factory.
Here's a tip on anti-seize; use a non-conductive type (not "Never-Seize" brand which contains graphite, which is highly conductive) Use compound sparingly, it doesn't take much to migrate to the plug's gap and ruin the plug.
The SAE needs to get their stuff together. Let me grab my 10 mm socket to remove the coil pack from this cylinder. Now lets a get 5/8 inch spark plug socket to remove the spark plugs. Seriously, pick a measurement system and stick to it! All that aside, awesome video guys! Keep up the great work!
Carlo David you do not know what you are talking about. Please tell me a spark plug socket in metric. Also tell me what size socket ratchet other countries use is it 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2?
I dont understand why a 5/8" socket fits these plugs. The plugs are 14mm and I saw that if not using a 14mn socket a 9/16" will work. Isn't the 5/8" socket to big? Can someone please explain this to me so I can purchase the right size socket? Thanks.
Use compressed air in spark plug wells after removing coil packs. Some click type torque wrenches will not click at such low settings. Use an in-lb torque wrench and multiply by 12. In this case, 12x13=156 in- lbs.
Good call, I broke two of the bolts trying to torque them with a larger wrench. But, it's easy to get a replacement at an auto parts store; thankfully it was around the corner from me!
I purchased a spark plug remover\installer tool from Ebay but it does not have the ft torque thing on it, can I still use it to tighten the spark plugs in its place? is the torque measurement when tightening important or should I just make sure it's tight enough using my installer tool?
@@2carpros Thanks for the service you are providing ^_^ knowing the tools I needed afore I went under the hood made it an easy hour and change... even if my pole light from the elctric company kept shutting off on me (parked under it and did it at 3am since its so dang hot!)
Sweet; 28 bolts & 9 clasps later, one can get fresh .04 gaped sparks of 13 ft/lbs torque! Well done & thanks for the good hint on maintaining proper gap via gentle hand install!
I'm used to doing some work on my own vehicles but this is my first hybrid so I'm hesitant to do any work. Did you unplug any batteries before starting this job?
Remove the floor matt's, remove fuzzy dice from mirror, six year old chicken nugget under the seat, remove the catalytic converter and sell it to the shady scraper, remove the hybrid battery... "Carpros" term used liberally
Gen II = 2004-2009, not including 2003, at least in the US. Gen 1 is the little sedan. Also, be careful of the torque on the coil packs should be more like 6.6 lb-ft, based on comments below of broken bolts using 13. Always check the gap on plugs you're installing -- even if they are 'pre-gapped'.
We just had the spark plugs replaced on our 2007 Prius. $357.00. Now they say engine valve #2 is going out. Dealer says $1800 to replace it. Ideas or prices ?
Just keep an eye on the oil level. If the check engine light isn't on don't worry about it. You got ripped off on a plug R&R, $357 is crazy high. The plugs are $40 at list price, takes 20 minutes, spend some money on the tools if you need to, you'll have at least $300, tools aren't nearly that much, and you only need to buy them once, if you don't loose them.
I liked your tutorial. I watch a lot of these that are not nearly as concise or as complete and yours was correct from all I can tell. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Great video. Would you mind listing the parts, torques, tools, etc in the video description? You could use Amazon affiliate links to make a little bit off the video too.
I'm going to change the plugs in my better half's Mk2 Prius soon and stumbled upon this video after watching the concise Auto Doc one. It seems that you're just wasting your time removing the airbox so I'll not bother with that, I'll only check the filter and won't be using an imperial socket on a metric spark plug!
This was WAY easier than I thought. I even cheated and left the coils plugged in. It turns out the only plug that was "bad" was cylinder 1 (the gap was almost double spec) after 185k miles, the last 15k have been extremely hard as I do not worry about the car too much.
You really don't have to IF you know how much force to put on the plug. It is a medium amount of force because the head is soft and you don't want to strip the threads that would be really bad. If you are unsure what I mean by medium tight then you can rent a torque wrench at a local auto parts store no need to buy one. People just get mad at me when I don't list a torque spec even though I am pretty sure they don't even own torque wrenches. Thank you for watching!
If you work on your own car, you're saving mechanic fees anyway. Anyone who works on a car should own a decent quality torque wrench, especially when tightening into aluminum...
I purchased a spark plug remover\installer tool from Ebay but it does not have the ft torque tightening spec thing on it, can I still use it to tighten the spark plugs in its place? is the torque measurement when tightening important or should I just make sure it's tight enough using my installer tool?
Everyone who works on cars at all should own a torque wrench. Note that he talks about 13 ft - lbs, so be sure to get one that reads at that scale. Practice on a screw going into a bike or box or something that won't be ruined if you're new at it. Aluminum metal (blocks of engines) are not the place to do your first ever torque-tigtening. Yes, you can just finger tighten the plug and then wing it (not too tight), but since you're doing your own work and saving all the mechanic fees, spend $20-50 and get the torque wrench. Another thing: store the torque wrench like it's made of glass with the torque set half way between max and min, assuming it's the kind that you set, not the bar-reading kind.
Your brake fluid is looking a little dirty. Supposed to be a light urine looking color. Also, the most important thing to mention when changing spark plugs is to make sure the block is as cold as it can be. The engine is made of aluminum which is soft compared to other metals and if torquing the plugs you can strip one of the holes out. If that happens, you are screwed
If the boot isn't in great shape go ahead and change it. But the coil only really needs to be changed if there is a problem. But if one coil has a problem I recommend changing them all because the rest aren't far behind. Thanks for watching!
DO NOT torque ignition coil bolts to 13lbs. Just do them until they are tight. I did it to 13 lbs and the bolts literally twisted in half and broke. Luckily I got them all out. Other than that. It worked!
That is the official torque from Toyota. Personally I would just do it till it was tight. But everyone in the world wants a number. Thanks for watching!
bad o-ring/gasket in the valve cover for that spark plug well. When the spark plugs are out, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket and o-rings. For some vehicles you have to replace the entire valve cover because the o-rings are built into it.
I don't understand why you have to remove the airflow components unless it's for extra work space. I changed all four of my spark plugs just by moving the relay out of the way..
@@cdog42065 unless he/she's just getting started, in which case, more power to them. By the way, there are some unusual situations (bicycle pedals) where it's not lefty loosy, but only because rotation of the thing might cause it to loosen Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty.
@@mpoisot I must be living on borrowed time. 06 Prius bought in 08 with 17k miles, today I turned 331k miles, original plugs, coil packs. Still averaging 49.4 mpg.
Questions... not familiar with these 100k type of spark plugs. 1- What kind of plugs are they by name so I can ask for them? 2- Why didn't you have a gap gauge to check the gap? 3 - Why don't you replace the gizmos that sit on top of the plugs? 4- Shouldn't they be replaced? - What about the wires to the spark plugs??. Typically there are wires for each plug that need to be replaced in past spark plug changing I've done- especially at 100k miles! 5- Is there a distributor cap like conventional cars used to have (though I am guessing its computerized ignition)? Have had 2 prius but this is the first one going to 100k and i know i need to do much to this car to make it go hopefully another 100k. like I am going to have the tie rods replaced since my alignment is never close enough to where it should be and they said i can either use the shim kit or another guy suggested even better to replace the outer tie rods. Since I found all four of them (inner and outer tie rods) on ebay for the price of one at the 'discount' auto parts place I am just going to do all 4. Well sorry I got off track but I got to do a lot to keep my car going. My girlfriend thinks I should get a new car but I think i can save a lot of moolah by just changing out some part and tuning up the prius. Thanks for your (any and all) help and overall it was a very good job with the video. BTW, I never realized I have to get so many parts out of the way just to change the damn plugs. I learned a lot. .
1. They are these: www.amazon.com/Denso-PK16TT-Platinum-Spark-Plug/dp/B002M2KO4G/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=Prius%7C1026&Year=2005%7C2005&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=6&vehicleType=automotive 2. They come pre-gapped 3. The coil packs are fine. 4. Not if they are working. 5. No distributor. Hope I helped and thanks for watching! :)
@@jzamudiorn lol true, considering she's married to someone making $3k/week and I lost my 18 year job via layoff. She ended up selling the car though couple weeks ago and bought a truck
Would it be too much to ask what tools you used and where you bought them from? I was looking at your website last night but wasn't sure if it's listed in there.
Well our tools are Snap-On brand and you can only really get those from a Snan-On dealer. They are the best tools I have ever used but they are ultra expensive. Like 170 just for a ratchet expensive. This is a really great set and contains every tool you need to do this job and most every other job as well. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BHJE0J4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01BHJE0J4&linkId=513893ca1c90e65cdb38f4727991d95b Thank you so much for watching!
Everything you showed prior to replacing the spark plugs in totally unneeded with exception to the relay box. You are giving bad advice on the video causing more items to be taken off to get to the plugs. I just changed mine yesterday along with new coil packs, without having to do any of the other part removals on a 2008 Prius 1.5ltr.
Did you ever think that people have different sized hands or tools? I couldn't get my hands or the camera where I needed it to. Heaven forbid you take something off and it makes the job easier or easier to see. Hardly "bad advice" if you ask me. Thanks for watching!
![DIY Prius Spark Plug Replacement Tutorial [Gen 2: 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6YLh52ZfUTs/mqdefault.jpg)
The torque spec for all the technical Andy's out there for the coil pack is 80 inch pounds not 13 foot pounds. Honestly just wrist tight is fine. Thanks for watching!
So I don’t need a torque wrench 🔧? I can just hand tighten it and it should be good?
InstaBlaster...
That 6-7ft Lbs for those that need a conversion
I wish people would stop being so critical… This man made this video to help us and it is very thorough and has answered many questions, these videos take quite a bit of time to make so please be respectful .... Also for people who would like to know he even provided a link to the Spark plugs in answer to someone’s question.
I just replaced my spark plugs in less than 30 mins with no experience at all. Thank you, this saved time and money
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
I didnt remove the airbox and i didnt disconnect the last clip to the coil. They left just enough lead so you dont have to disconnect the coils. It was super easy. I did replace the air filter while i was thinking about it. Thanks for the video
cooper8318 I was thinking the same thing lol!
W
Yep, did it the same way, only removed the relay box.
Thanks. I just did this with the help of this video.
A couple of little things that might make things easier: You don't have to remove the top of the air box. You don't have to unplug all the coil packs, except the one on the far right (the hardest one to access X| ). Just be careful not to yank the wires when you pull out the coil packs.
If the spark plug gets stuck in the socket, try pushing into the the threads from different sides to unbind the spark plug from the socket. Put a rag between the threads and whatever you're pushing against to protect the surfaces that are in contact. In my case, pushing with my thumb was enough, but you might be need more leverage and/or want to avoid the threads cutting your thumb. If you want to try more force, try pushing against something like a work surface.
If you are really paranoid, I suppose you can grease the inside of the socket before attempting to remove the spark plug.
Not really sure if I needed to do this procedure, but I've had this car for more than 50 kmiles, so I know the spark plugs are at least that old (the car has done 133 k miles total). I tried to find pictures online of "healthy" spark plugs, and it's kind of hard to say whether mine were ok. If I looked carefully, I could see a little bit of a shiny surface on both electrodes. My guess is that even if that is the case, the spark plugs could be not performing as well as they should.
After this operation, I noticed that the engine started much more smoothly; no shuddering. My hope is that this will boost my efficiency and/or reduce emissions. Not really sure how to determine the latter (I recently passed California smog test), but time will tell if the former materializes.
EXCELLENT!!! I did it as you guide us and I made it. Thank you very much for your efforts, I know it required a lot of effort from your side to record, to edit and to publish the video!! You are the best!
Thank you so much for watching!
Thanks for refreshing my memory before spark plug change. Worked on 2009 Prius, originally mine but since passed on to son. I unscrewed, moved fuse box. I only removed lid and 2 top bolts of air box, pulled up and forward to give an extra inch or so; not a full removal. I've done this car's spark plugs before without moving air box at all but a little more room is worth the compromise. I find using 2 short ratchet extensions work best get in there with the spark plug socket. I chose to use the Denso Iridium TT plugs.
Thank you for posting this video. It demonstrates the most thorough procedure for replacing the spark plugs in a gen-2 Prius. 👍👍
really good video. thumbs up. I need to do this on my 256k mile 2nd gen prius
The background music makes this such a joy to watch
Thank you for video. I did not take off air box but I did unbolt fuse box on firewall. If some one has less experience it would be better to remove air box to make it easier. Also I was able to leave wires on coil packs and just pull out of the way one at a time. One other suggestion if you do not have much experience when putting spark plug back in use the socket and exstension and get it started by hand first. they are fine threads so hold it verticle and start to tighten if you feel it binding turn it counter clockwise and to you feel it drop a bit then start to tighten again you should be able to tighten 90 percent by hand and finish with ratchet. DO NOT CROSS THREAD IT! That would involve removing head from engine.
Wupsie! I snapped off the bolt of the first coil-pack assy when trying to tighten it to your spec of 13 ft-lbs. 13 ft-lbs is the correct torque for only the spark plugs, not the coil-pack bolts. The torque for the coil-pack bolts is 82 inch-lbs (6.8 ft-lbs) - so 13 ft-lbs is almost double the correct torque. Luckily there was a piece of bolt sticking up that I could get a pair of pliers on to remove the remainder if the broken bolt. I borrowed a mounting bolt from the air filter box to replace the broken one, temporarily leaving the air filter box mounted with just one bolt while I drove to the hardware store and bought the correct replacement bolt (M6 x 30mm x 1) for the coil pack. Back home with the bolts replaced, all is well now. Otherwise, extremely helpful video, very clear. Thanks!
It snapped at 13? That is an extremely weak bolt. I did all mine to 13 and it felt right. Sorry you went through that. But good work on getting that M6 replacement bolt! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros I found a post someplace else where the same thing happened to another guy. He was tightening without a torque wrench but said he was surprised at how easily it broke. His broke in the same place mine did - in the hollow 1/2 inch or so of unthreaded spacer created by the body of the coil pack. What happens is that as you tighten the bolt, the threads in the block are stretching the bolt downward with the head of the bolt holding back, so the "neck" of the bolt twists, then breaks in that unthreaded space. He researched and found the correct torque of 84 inch-lbs, or about 6.7 Ft-lbs - pretty low. Other videos I watched on the procedure don't use a torque wrench, but tighten the bolts "just snug", so that's what I did then for the rest, and all went well. I did get the new M6 bolt easily at an Ace Hdwr.
Very well done with concise narration. Thanks for including the torque specifications!
Thank you for watching!
I purchased a spark plug remover\installer tool from Ebay but it does not have the ft torque tightening spec thing on it, can I still use it to tighten the spark plugs in its place? is the torque measurement when tightening important or should I just make sure it's tight enough using my installer tool?
Just did this and you definitely don’t have to do anything with the air box. Move the relay box and all four coils come right out without even unplugging them.
Also the NGK web site specifically says to NOT use any anti seize with their plugs and there definitely isn’t any used by Toyota at the factory.
Here's a tip on anti-seize; use a non-conductive type (not "Never-Seize" brand which contains graphite, which is highly conductive) Use compound sparingly, it doesn't take much to migrate to the plug's gap and ruin the plug.
I was going to say the same thing about anti-seize. You're right if you go to the website it says not to use it
Great video. I'm not a machanic at all. But even I think I can follow these step. Very well laid out video. Thanks.
You got this! Thanks for watching!
The SAE needs to get their stuff together. Let me grab my 10 mm socket to remove the coil pack from this cylinder. Now lets a get 5/8 inch spark plug socket to remove the spark plugs. Seriously, pick a measurement system and stick to it!
All that aside, awesome video guys! Keep up the great work!
Carlo David you do not know what you are talking about. Please tell me a spark plug socket in metric. Also tell me what size socket ratchet other countries use is it 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2?
I dont understand why a 5/8" socket fits these plugs. The plugs are 14mm and I saw that if not using a 14mn socket a 9/16" will work. Isn't the 5/8" socket to big? Can someone please explain this to me so I can purchase the right size socket? Thanks.
Excellent video, made it easy. Another thing I did was pull out the mass air flow sensor, and clean it with the CRC mass air flow sensor spray cleaner
Very cool! Thanks for watching!
Use compressed air in spark plug wells after removing coil packs. Some click type torque wrenches will not click at such low settings. Use an in-lb torque wrench and multiply by 12. In this case, 12x13=156 in- lbs.
Good call, I broke two of the bolts trying to torque them with a larger wrench. But, it's easy to get a replacement at an auto parts store; thankfully it was around the corner from me!
I purchased a spark plug remover\installer tool from Ebay but it does not have the ft torque thing on it, can I still use it to tighten the spark plugs in its place? is the torque measurement when tightening important or should I just make sure it's tight enough using my installer tool?
Great video. I like the detail, e.g. torque numbers and such.
Great vid, elevator music was just enough comic relief lol
Couldn’t have been easier to change my 2003 plugs after this. Thanks !
Killing it! Thanks for the guide. Worked flawlessly and saved me hundreds!
Very cool! Thanks for watching!
1ml
I was able to changed my spark plugs today after watching this. Thanks again.
Excellent! Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Thanks for the service you are providing ^_^ knowing the tools I needed afore I went under the hood made it an easy hour and change... even if my pole light from the elctric company kept shutting off on me (parked under it and did it at 3am since its so dang hot!)
Sweet; 28 bolts & 9 clasps later, one can get fresh .04 gaped sparks of 13 ft/lbs torque! Well done & thanks for the good hint on maintaining proper gap via gentle hand install!
Excellent video and easy to follow.
Best video ive ever seen thank you for this.
Wow, thanks!
I'm used to doing some work on my own vehicles but this is my first hybrid so I'm hesitant to do any work. Did you unplug any batteries before starting this job?
Including re-assembly in the video is much appreciated. It's so easy to forget a bolt here, or a connection there 😅
No problem! Always like to show it going back together. Thanks for watching!
nice thorough tutorial; thanks for taking the time to do this; keep up the great work
Thank you so much for the comment! :)
Yea that anti seize amount was gravy amount at a restaurant 😂 good video glad it doesn't need to remove the wipers and firewall accessories.
Remove the floor matt's, remove fuzzy dice from mirror, six year old chicken nugget under the seat, remove the catalytic converter and sell it to the shady scraper, remove the hybrid battery... "Carpros" term used liberally
The background soundtrack is PUMPIN' . :P
Gen II = 2004-2009, not including 2003, at least in the US. Gen 1 is the little sedan. Also, be careful of the torque on the coil packs should be more like 6.6 lb-ft, based on comments below of broken bolts using 13. Always check the gap on plugs you're installing -- even if they are 'pre-gapped'.
That spec is right from Toyota so take it up with them. Thanks for watching!
We just had the spark plugs replaced on our 2007 Prius. $357.00. Now they say engine valve #2 is going out. Dealer says $1800 to replace it. Ideas or prices ?
hey George....I just got my whole engine replaced with rebuilt engine for $1500 total.... (bad rings and eating oil at 200k_).
Sell the car QUICK lol
lol you paid 357 to have 4 spark plugs replaced? lol wow
Do the plugs yourself, takes 20 minutes max.
Just keep an eye on the oil level. If the check engine light isn't on don't worry about it. You got ripped off on a plug R&R, $357 is crazy high. The plugs are $40 at list price, takes 20 minutes, spend some money on the tools if you need to, you'll have at least $300, tools aren't nearly that much, and you only need to buy them once, if you don't loose them.
Great instructions! Appreciate your post.
I liked your tutorial. I watch a lot of these that are not nearly as concise or as complete and yours was correct from all I can tell. Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Awesome vid super helpful but I didn't have to take the airbox out at all, not even on the way. The relay thing was the only thing in the way
Great video. Would you mind listing the parts, torques, tools, etc in the video description? You could use Amazon affiliate links to make a little bit off the video too.
Spoken like a professional consumer
Good video and great background music lol 😂.👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Thanks for watching Brandon!
I'm going to change the plugs in my better half's Mk2 Prius soon and stumbled upon this video after watching the concise Auto Doc one. It seems that you're just wasting your time removing the airbox so I'll not bother with that, I'll only check the filter and won't be using an imperial socket on a metric spark plug!
Good job! I don't understand why you took the air box apart though. I just get the relay box out of the way and go from there.
This was WAY easier than I thought. I even cheated and left the coils plugged in. It turns out the only plug that was "bad" was cylinder 1 (the gap was almost double spec) after 185k miles, the last 15k have been extremely hard as I do not worry about the car too much.
how important is it to torque the plugs to 13 lbs? Do I need to go buy a torque wrench?
You really don't have to IF you know how much force to put on the plug. It is a medium amount of force because the head is soft and you don't want to strip the threads that would be really bad. If you are unsure what I mean by medium tight then you can rent a torque wrench at a local auto parts store no need to buy one. People just get mad at me when I don't list a torque spec even though I am pretty sure they don't even own torque wrenches. Thank you for watching!
If you work on your own car, you're saving mechanic fees anyway. Anyone who works on a car should own a decent quality torque wrench, especially when tightening into aluminum...
I purchased a spark plug remover\installer tool from Ebay but it does not have the ft torque tightening spec thing on it, can I still use it to tighten the spark plugs in its place? is the torque measurement when tightening important or should I just make sure it's tight enough using my installer tool?
Everyone who works on cars at all should own a torque wrench. Note that he talks about 13 ft - lbs, so be sure to get one that reads at that scale. Practice on a screw going into a bike or box or something that won't be ruined if you're new at it. Aluminum metal (blocks of engines) are not the place to do your first ever torque-tigtening. Yes, you can just finger tighten the plug and then wing it (not too tight), but since you're doing your own work and saving all the mechanic fees, spend $20-50 and get the torque wrench. Another thing: store the torque wrench like it's made of glass with the torque set half way between max and min, assuming it's the kind that you set, not the bar-reading kind.
Your brake fluid is looking a little dirty. Supposed to be a light urine looking color. Also, the most important thing to mention when changing spark plugs is to make sure the block is as cold as it can be. The engine is made of aluminum which is soft compared to other metals and if torquing the plugs you can strip one of the holes out. If that happens, you are screwed
Would you recommend also changing the COP boot and/or ignition coil?
If the boot isn't in great shape go ahead and change it. But the coil only really needs to be changed if there is a problem. But if one coil has a problem I recommend changing them all because the rest aren't far behind. Thanks for watching!
Should the battery or the computer be disconnected when replacing the spark plugs or not
Very informative, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
thank you i just saved $300 labor
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
DO NOT torque ignition coil bolts to 13lbs. Just do them until they are tight. I did it to 13 lbs and the bolts literally twisted in half and broke. Luckily I got them all out. Other than that. It worked!
You CAN do plugs to 13. I replaced plugs and it didn’t fix the problem. Then I replaced the coils, this fixed the problem!!
That is the official torque from Toyota. Personally I would just do it till it was tight. But everyone in the world wants a number. Thanks for watching!
2CarPros I’m sure your right, my first time doing this, but it almost broke 4 of 4 bolts completely in half
Wow! Great video! Thanks for making it so easy, a caveman like me could do it. 😁👍
Does it matter if you rearrange the coils?
No, if the housings don't differ which most don't. Thanks for watching!
Very well done...THANK YOU!!!
Thank you for watching!
What spark plug socket brand and model do you use?
Hello wha can be if you have oil in the number 3 plug place??
bad o-ring/gasket in the valve cover for that spark plug well. When the spark plugs are out, remove the valve cover and replace the gasket and o-rings. For some vehicles you have to replace the entire valve cover because the o-rings are built into it.
Great video. Thank you
You are welcome!
thk you for the info , excellent video
Glad it was helpful!
13 ft-lb for the plugs, and 80 in-lb for the ignition coil fasteners
What is the name of the song in this video playing in the backgroind?
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to do it!
Thank you so much for watching!
I was reinstalling the coil pack bolts and torquing them to 156 in/lbs and the bolt snapped. Is that torque spec correct?
13 foot pounds is right from Toyota themselves. But just hand snug is good honestly. Thanks for watching!
I don't understand why you have to remove the airflow components unless it's for extra work space. I changed all four of my spark plugs just by moving the relay out of the way..
Charlotte Huff: You could undo the airbox but you don’t have to. Either way it’s all about personal preference
Hallelujah, that'll save me a ton of time.
Yes same deal you don't have to take all that crap off
My 2005 Prius has 190.000 how much does it cost to have the spark plugs done by the dealer?
@@zumbaconrobertosouthwestde1577 probably 500 dollars lol for 4 plugs its only like 40 dollars...
What length did spark plug socket you use? 6" or 10" ?
It was a 6 inch extension. Thank you for watching!
2CarPros Thanks! Could you tell me where did you buy spark plug socket?
what direction should I move the wrench to remove the spark plug? is it clock wise?
Counter clockwise. Left losey righty tighty. Thanks for watching!
Dude, if your asking this question you shouldn't be holding a wrench. Just saying....
Christopher Drowne I totally agree but this kind of DIY videos are directed to those who never hold a wrench
@@cdog42065 unless he/she's just getting started, in which case, more power to them. By the way, there are some unusual situations (bicycle pedals) where it's not lefty loosy, but only because rotation of the thing might cause it to loosen Lefty Loosy, Righty Tighty.
Thanks a lot😊
Good job buddy
Thanks 👍
Nice video!
Thanks for watching!
What is recommended replacement mileage for plugs?
120k miles according to my 2008 maintenance guide book.
@@mpoisot I must be living on borrowed time. 06 Prius bought in 08 with 17k miles, today I turned 331k miles, original plugs, coil packs. Still averaging 49.4 mpg.
@@yorkielover6257if you replace them they might run more efficiently
Questions... not familiar with these 100k type of spark plugs. 1- What kind of plugs are they by name so I can ask for them? 2- Why didn't you have a gap gauge to check the gap? 3 - Why don't you replace the gizmos that sit on top of the plugs? 4- Shouldn't they be replaced? - What about the wires to the spark plugs??. Typically there are wires for each plug that need to be replaced in past spark plug changing I've done- especially at 100k miles! 5- Is there a distributor cap like conventional cars used to have (though I am guessing its computerized ignition)? Have had 2 prius but this is the first one going to 100k and i know i need to do much to this car to make it go hopefully another 100k. like I am going to have the tie rods replaced since my alignment is never close enough to where it should be and they said i can either use the shim kit or another guy suggested even better to replace the outer tie rods. Since I found all four of them (inner and outer tie rods) on ebay for the price of one at the 'discount' auto parts place I am just going to do all 4. Well sorry I got off track but I got to do a lot to keep my car going. My girlfriend thinks I should get a new car but I think i can save a lot of moolah by just changing out some part and tuning up the prius. Thanks for your (any and all) help and overall it was a very good job with the video. BTW, I never realized I have to get so many parts out of the way just to change the damn plugs. I learned a lot.
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1. They are these: www.amazon.com/Denso-PK16TT-Platinum-Spark-Plug/dp/B002M2KO4G/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=Prius%7C1026&Year=2005%7C2005&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=6&vehicleType=automotive
2. They come pre-gapped
3. The coil packs are fine.
4. Not if they are working.
5. No distributor.
Hope I helped and thanks for watching! :)
Thanks for this... Just found out I get to do this on the womans frieds car... Good times, don't want to spend much time on this
You got this! Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for watching and for supporting the channel!
Teally appreciate mate🥂
Thanks for watching!
Anyone know if much difference between this and 2013 Prius C? My ex gf is due for a tuneup
It will be very very similar. Thanks for watching!
The ex should pay for her tune up
@@jzamudiorn lol true, considering she's married to someone making $3k/week and I lost my 18 year job via layoff. She ended up selling the car though couple weeks ago and bought a truck
Craaap that's a lot of steps. Lol wish me luck!
You got this! Thank you for watching!
Would it be too much to ask what tools you used and where you bought them from? I was looking at your website last night but wasn't sure if it's listed in there.
Well our tools are Snap-On brand and you can only really get those from a Snan-On dealer. They are the best tools I have ever used but they are ultra expensive. Like 170 just for a ratchet expensive.
This is a really great set and contains every tool you need to do this job and most every other job as well.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BHJE0J4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2carprcom-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01BHJE0J4&linkId=513893ca1c90e65cdb38f4727991d95b
Thank you so much for watching!
@@2carpros that looks more like a blue point ratchet
took me 7 hours and 3 of em were over a bolt i broke and a bit of procrastinating here and there and trips to the autozone
How you know 8f your spark plugs are bad
You really don’t need to take the intake off, you can literally reach it under the relay
My hands wouldn't fit so this was easier. Thanks for watching!
I don't remove the airbox but I take off the cowling.
Alrighty. Thanks for watching!
You really need to maximum the brightness level to watch this video, bit annoying
Looks alright on my screens. Thanks for watching!
How to change oil for transmission Toyota fortuner?
No need to remove airbox...
It's a lot easier if you do. Thanks for watching!
Just replaced all my Plugs in 20 Minutes
Nice work! Thanks for watching!
This is doing things..the hard way. Don't need to remove (air anything),.. don't need to remove coil cables from coils... no mass flow sensor
This is the way the manual says to do it. If I do it the quick way people complain. thanks for watching!
@@2carpros That's true, no matter how you do it, we will complain lmao... too funny. Great video!
Everything you showed prior to replacing the spark plugs in totally unneeded with exception to the relay box. You are giving bad advice on the video causing more items to be taken off to get to the plugs. I just changed mine yesterday along with new coil packs, without having to do any of the other part removals on a 2008 Prius 1.5ltr.
Did you ever think that people have different sized hands or tools? I couldn't get my hands or the camera where I needed it to. Heaven forbid you take something off and it makes the job easier or easier to see. Hardly "bad advice" if you ask me. Thanks for watching!
Poor video
Wasted time on screw removal