This video was extremely helpful - I did the project over a weekend and the conversion made a huge difference to the way my K1500 performs. My dad bought this '97 new and I got it a couple of years ago after he passed. I don't really know/remember how it ran when new, but I could tell that it now clearly wasn't running as well as is should. It started okay, but was sluggish and ran a bit rough. Compared to the way it was before the conversion, it now runs smoothly, accelerates quickly and my wife remarked that it idles and runs quite a bit more quietly than before. I haven't had time to check, but I bet my mileage goes up by a couple of MPG. If you have a Chevy Vortec from this era, I highly recommend that you do this upgrade, and use this video to walk you through it. It's tedious work but not hugely complicated if you take your time and label everything as they recommend. I hate to think how much this would have cost if I'd had to pay a mechanic (or a dealer!) to do this work. One thing I'd advise you to do is take a lot of pictures before you start, because there are several sensors, modules and various brackets that bolt onto the studs so you want to make sure you have a record of which, what and where they are. That leads to my only (minor) criticism of the video - they should have documented what each of the dozen or so studs looks like before starting to take everything apart. On the whole, the video is a great tool. Thanks to 1A Auto for providing this for us DIY types!
I changed this out a few days ago on my V6 2001 and your video was a major help. As a DIYer with basic tools and not much knowledge of cars, it took me about 6-8 hours and two bicycle trips to O-Reillys. Here are my recommendations: 1. I didn't bother to read the instructions for installation until I already had the old one out. Read the instructions that come with your spider injector before starting! 2. Have some new Fuel O-Rings to replace on the fuel lines where they disconnect near the distributor. To disconnect these I did have a line wrench. Sounds like those crows feet things would be easier. The fuel lines are two different sizes and you can get a variety pack. They are brown in color and not the generic black O-Rings. I bought the last box at O'Reillys so get them ahead of time. I did use a caliper to measure the width of my lines and made sure I had the right sized rings. 3. I was totally confused (panicked) on whether to keep my old bracket or use a new bracket since the instructions I had with my BWD spider injector said I needed a new one, yet the new bracket I saw online did not match the photo on the instructions. The photo on the instructions looked like my old bracket. I also panicked about my new bracket since I bought one that one auto website said does not fit (O'Reillys) and another auto website says it fits (Advanced Auto Parts). The new bracket I used was pretty much exactly like the old one except it has 2 clip in spots on each side instead of 3 clip in spots on each side (which only 2 are used anyways on the old bracket). The height, clip in spots, and width all matched the old bracket. I'm sure the old one would have been fine if not better. The new bracket didn't have much play when bolted down and made it harder to seat the manifold cap. 4. Consider a star lock washer for the bracket bolt so that it does not fall off the bracket and into the manifold. 5. PLUG the holes to the manifold with clean shop rags. I could have easily dropped the bracket bolt or my star tip down the hole resulting in a much bigger problem (thought of this as I was doing it). 6. It took me awhile to spin the new electronic ends on the injectors so that I could seat the manifold cover nicely over everything. Also putting my injectors in place I thought I was going to break the legs (wires or whatever they are). They are incredibly stiff and the V6 puts the legs scrunched positions. 7. In the future I would probably order the ACDelco with everything included such as the new bracket, and intake and throttle body gaskets. 8. For torquing it down, the V6 is different from the V8 (less bolts) . I followed the general order of the pattern to kinda match mine and did the two passes with different amounts of torque. 8. With the throttle body off, if you haven't cleaned it yet might as well. I used a wood cuticle pusher you can buy at Sallys Beauty supplies (some girl tools come in real handy) to not scratch it and carb cleaner. 9. When I started my car I thought I killed it. I heard popping from the engine and misfires. I checked that I had put the spark plug boots back on the distributor cap correctly by visually tracing the wires back to the plugs. Couldn't find what I did wrong and thought maybe I put an injector in the wrong place or dropped something in the manifold holes. Had it towed to the shop and told myself I was crazy for ripping the heart out of my car and transplanting a new one. The car shop got back to me, ran a vacuum check and fuel check (which instructions advise doing a fuel pressure check before starting the engine) which both turned out good. What happened is that I had marked my 1 and 3 wires incorrectly and had them mixed up. Even though I traced them back to the plugs, my brain was tired, confused, and just couldn't see the obvious. I'm guessing the order of putting in the injectors threw my brain off track. The shop guys plugged the boots in correctly on the distributor cap. It is a relief knowing I didn't kill my engine and do not have vacuum leaks. Have a buddy check your work. My car now runs like a champ!!
Margaret Ruskiewicz if like to add a few hints! A shop vac is really a must, when you do this!! Especially if you have an older engine! Remove the goose neck, for the thermostat, and replaced the thermostat too, while your at it!! The gooseneck is in the way slightly, and removing helps a bit! Carb spray cleaner is the best for cleaning out a lot of the lower intake manifolds before putting the new injector spider back together! Don't spray directly into the manifold, spray a clean rag, wipe up the mess, and throw it away. Get a new clean rag, spray with carb spray, and repeat! There is no need to get the lower intake area spotless, just vacuum away the mass of the loose stuff, then the rag, and another quick vacuuming! Throttle body cleaning is a must for this job! Be careful where you spray the carb cleaner, but be sure to make the throttle body spotless! Then use a new gasket to seal the throttle body back to the upper manifold! Clean the MAP sensor end too, but again, be careful to not spray carb cleaner directly at or into the MAP sensor! If you are not familiar with this type of work, I suggest using the phone camera, and making yourself notes, and putting the nuts and bolts into a plastic bag, separate from each other, and mark the bag. It will make re-assembly that much easier. And you will have a reference if you forget something, or to make sure that you didn't!'
FWIW: those brown o-rings are likely Viton, not rubber like the black ones. Using rubber o-rings on a fuel system with ethanol in it will likely result in a leak in the near future, and doesn't really save any money. So, good call getting the right ones. :)
Without question, a very high quality video. Thank you. Before installing the injector pintel tube covers in their bores, it is a good idea to thoroughly clean out the bores of carbon buildup. I used brake cleaner and wire tube brushes to scour out the bores. Then lubricated the pintel covers with a (light) coating of trans-gel (or petroleum jelly) to make installation easier. Make sure the pintel covers seat all the way into the bore until they click. Position the electrical fuel injector connectors to keep from interfering with each other.
Good job ! I would have liked to hear the car start at least, if not to do a short run. A before and after with the two injection systems would be a very compelling selling point.
This is one of the most informative videos on auto/truck repair I have ever seen. The instructions were clear and precise and the video quality was excellent. Just because of this...I am going to switch all of my parts buying to 1A Auto!!
+Thomas Robinson Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Thanks for the help! Just completed my upgrade this weekend on my '97 K1500. I watched this video a few times before starting and it made the replacement so much easier. Other videos said you had to remove the upper radiator hose and thermostat housing, but you don't have to with your method.
If you have to do this,just go one set further and pull the entire intake out and upgrade the manifold gaskets before they leak,it makes putting the spider in much easier.
I agree! It'd be kinda dumb not to since your already there especially if your over 100k cause you'll just have to redo everything again when the lower starts to leak. Plus getting all the intake runners cleaned out has to help improve flow on higher milage engines
Agree. i'm collecting parts to do this on my S-10 with 4.3ltr. Also going to R&R with new water pump and PS pump since they are buried down in front with 120K on them though they are currently working fine. I plan on keeping this pickup so only want to do this work once.
Hey thanks 1AAuto for this video. My 96 Silverado was an exact match. Your descriptive video was key to me being successful today and I want to thank you guys. Great work.
You'll want to make sure the electrical connectors on the end of the injectors are on opposite sides,if not they bump up on each other and makes getting the injectors in impossible,and make they are connected,I had come loose, luckily I caught that!
My 97 yukon "Gt" has spider injection, think I might do this eventually, it's at like 200k and runs pretty good, so I might end up doing this, plus manifold gaskets to make sure I'm not going in here again at 300k. And if it doesn't last that long I'm just gonna swap all the goodies from this one onto the next c/k I buy. These trucks are fantastic.
Just so you all know, You dont take off the throttle body unless you have to. you also can leave the fuel line connected to the lower lines coming from under the trans tunnel. just take the bolts off and move them to the side. its just extra work to remove things that you dont need to. best of luck.
Good stuff... but after watching other videos of people doing this very thing, the o-rings on the ends of fuel lines were replace and lubricated, the bores for the new injectors inside the intake manifold were lightly cleaned using a small pipe cleaner to provide a cleaner surface and lubricated for smoother insertion of the injector tubes, and the o-ring that surounds the spider assembly was also lubricated to prevent tearing while reinstalling the top manifold plenum that could ultimately cause a headache of a vacuum leak.
Did you do it dude? I'm thinking no if I desperately need to which I kinda do, I'll have no Choice but to, and this is like a exam at a school, taking something apart then putting back correctly, and there's just about every part involved with the engine you have to deal with... Man...
1A Auto Parts I know this videos old but I have the upper plenum off. Are you able to clean the lower intake before reinstall? And what holes should you be careful of getting stuff in
i also label everything........I also use white foam core board to pierce and hold each bolt, item...... labeled. I keep a step by step w quick sketch on a clip board as I go....and reassemble.
It’s worth the 28 dollars to use a new gasket set every time if it comes off I’ve probably had this cover off of mine 6 times in 2 years today I’ve had problems with regulators got a new one in today finally. but that o ring around the injectors this one went on yesterday but still better to have a new set every time if you need to take it off. Just a warning lol
I want to add to this my truck stated to run rough almost like a miss fire when I would stop and idle also I would start it and run for a second and die start again be fine I noticed it didn't have the power like used to I installed the new spider injection no more issues starts right up and let me tell you the performance difference holy crap big difference I hope this helps you guys out their with this problem
Thank You ..That spyder your using has a nice positive snap in on the injectors. AC Delco Does not ..#5 wanted to keep coming out ..Luckily #7 is routed over the top of it to help keep the injector in place.
I had failure after installing the MPFI upgrade spider. The clip on the lower manifold that holds the control unit has sharp edges. This cut through one of the injector wires after about a week and started blowing ECM1 fuses. Truck no run. When installing the MPFI upgrade spider, take off the clip on the lower intake manifold and file the sharp edges smooth, slide the tubes already installed on the spider up to the control unit so they protect the wires. Chased possible shorts everywhere until I checked impedence on the upper manifold FI connector pins (not the harness, the connector on the manifold). Pull off the connector to the FI from upper manifold and check impedence of all the pins. With ECM1 fuse out, if any of them indicates more than 0 impedance, one of your injector wires has shorted to that clip.
man this thing alot work... its the same on the v6 4.3 but mine is an astro van not the pickup variant much less space to work around the engine ..dame
Well I did the project on my 1996 Chevy but it still runs, ruff I’ve changed a lot of parts and it still running almost like before and have a hard time starting with put gas on the intake
The point of this upgrade is to recalibrate the ECU for the new injectors for improved power/efficiency. Bolting in a more expensive system and complicated system without calibration is a waste of money.
Great video, very thorough and complete in showing every step needed to do this conversion. I have a 97 K1500 that I have just upgraded with a professionally built stroker 383 displacement SBC and upgraded after market aluminum heads (I'll have to check the specs for what size valves they installed in it). I requested an RV style camshaft, for maximum low rpm torque. I'm now shopping for intake and exhaust modifications I can make that will allow me to take advantage of the added displacement with my goal of trying to maximize low speed torque for towing my trailer up mountain roads, not for high rpm HP. Is there a different after market injection intake system that I should research that can provide more torque and power, than the system shown in this video? I currently live in an area that does not require smog checks for registration renewals, so I'm open to any modifications, including complete replacement of the entire intake and exhaust system, and possibly even going backward to a carburetor and older style distributor, if I can't find any modern alternatives, though I would prefer to keep my truck as close to stock as I can, so I can keep as many modern sensors and avoid constant check engine lights due to missing equipment. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
Nicely put video. Straight to the point. I am going to do this to my 1999 Suburban. It has a crank but won't start symptom and I have change a bunch of stuff and still. I got spark, fuel psi, compression, charged battery, new fuel pump. Crankshaft and Camshaft sensors, distributor cap, rotor, and still. It is good on timing, that I checked with the TDC and the thing pointing to #1 spark deal in the distributor cap. It basically died in the driveway for the lack of use little by little. Any advise will be appreciated... Jose. Will keep you all posted on what happen next.
Just did this to my 97 Chevy 2500 5.7L. Started right up and took for a test drive. Got home parked it but now won’t start. Whole fuel system has been replaced. So not sure why it won’t start now. Battery, starter and alternator are fine and has spark. So not sure if there’s an air pocket or something in the fuel system now.
I have 1998 Silverado V8 and I have to change the spider fuel injector twice with a used spider, still doing the same thing just run for 30-40 second and cutoff am trying to buy a new spider now, Do you think that will be the best to do?
There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause before completing any further repairs. +Latunde Sapara
remanufactured spyder injectors have been known to fail. Just upgrade to the multiport injection or buy an OEM replacement, not another reman spyder injector
All well and good but what if either your vehicle came from the factory (2005 Silverado) or already had the upgraded injectors installed at some point? My MPFI injectors are stuck in the intake manifold. How the heck do I get them out? There's nothing to pinch and I'm pulling pretty hard on them already.
Is the stock black box pcm capable of getting any true benefits from this conversion? I imagine that if you 0411 swapped the pcm, added coil packs, 24x converted it, and tuned it you would see true benefits other than having nice new clean fuel injectors. It just seems to me that improving fuel timing without improving ignition timing is kinda pointless. But idk.
I'm doing this project and I'm new with these upgrade injectors. My ? Is do the injectors push down and snap in completely or like my 5.7 seems like the just slide in and don't completely go down all the way some of the injector plastic still visible about 5/16 of and inch they will not completely push down flush. Is the correct way?
I just installed these on my 98 k1500 but I’m running into once issue that has held up the last 10 minutes of this whole process. The fuel lines that go into the injector block went in great at first then I realized I had to loosen the bolt on the block to get the lines connected at the firewall cause it was just too tight so I took out the lines at the injector block and everything came with it. The plastic sleeve the two o rings and also the metal washer. Since then I have not been able to get them to west back into the injector block properly. What am I doing wrong???
+Edwin James Sutphin Thanks for checking us out! We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
+Virgil French You may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it to determine exactly which injector is bad. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
NNoisy no the fuel injection system in a 1994 is called throttle body injection the system shown in the video is called spider injection and it is only used from 1996 to 1998 on these trucks
Use small pins to release the catches on the pintel cover from the bore, carefully pull out. Failing that, you'll have to pull the lower manifold, and push out the cover from the bottom of the manifold.
Installed mine today and truck started right up. When I put it in gear it acts like it’s going to die then surges hard. If I press the throttle at idle it revs decent but when in gear the throttle kills it. Any advice from anyone who has installed one of these?
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i guess it is kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good place to stream newly released series online?
This video was extremely helpful - I did the project over a weekend and the conversion made a huge difference to the way my K1500 performs. My dad bought this '97 new and I got it a couple of years ago after he passed. I don't really know/remember how it ran when new, but I could tell that it now clearly wasn't running as well as is should. It started okay, but was sluggish and ran a bit rough. Compared to the way it was before the conversion, it now runs smoothly, accelerates quickly and my wife remarked that it idles and runs quite a bit more quietly than before. I haven't had time to check, but I bet my mileage goes up by a couple of MPG. If you have a Chevy Vortec from this era, I highly recommend that you do this upgrade, and use this video to walk you through it. It's tedious work but not hugely complicated if you take your time and label everything as they recommend. I hate to think how much this would have cost if I'd had to pay a mechanic (or a dealer!) to do this work.
One thing I'd advise you to do is take a lot of pictures before you start, because there are several sensors, modules and various brackets that bolt onto the studs so you want to make sure you have a record of which, what and where they are. That leads to my only (minor) criticism of the video - they should have documented what each of the dozen or so studs looks like before starting to take everything apart. On the whole, the video is a great tool. Thanks to 1A Auto for providing this for us DIY types!
Did you use a torque wrench I’m a little worried to do this but think I can do it how long did it take you
You are awesome for sharing your experience thank you and god bless you
@@84montecarlonazi Yes of course you use a torque wrench. I don't know any other way to torque bolts down lol...
I changed this out a few days ago on my V6 2001 and your video was a major help. As a DIYer with basic tools and not much knowledge of cars, it took me about 6-8 hours and two bicycle trips to O-Reillys. Here are my recommendations:
1. I didn't bother to read the instructions for installation until I already had the old one out. Read the instructions that come with your spider injector before starting!
2. Have some new Fuel O-Rings to replace on the fuel lines where they disconnect near the distributor. To disconnect these I did have a line wrench. Sounds like those crows feet things would be easier. The fuel lines are two different sizes and you can get a variety pack. They are brown in color and not the generic black O-Rings. I bought the last box at O'Reillys so get them ahead of time. I did use a caliper to measure the width of my lines and made sure I had the right sized rings.
3. I was totally confused (panicked) on whether to keep my old bracket or use a new bracket since the instructions I had with my BWD spider injector said I needed a new one, yet the new bracket I saw online did not match the photo on the instructions. The photo on the instructions looked like my old bracket. I also panicked about my new bracket since I bought one that one auto website said does not fit (O'Reillys) and another auto website says it fits (Advanced Auto Parts). The new bracket I used was pretty much exactly like the old one except it has 2 clip in spots on each side instead of 3 clip in spots on each side (which only 2 are used anyways on the old bracket). The height, clip in spots, and width all matched the old bracket. I'm sure the old one would have been fine if not better. The new bracket didn't have much play when bolted down and made it harder to seat the manifold cap.
4. Consider a star lock washer for the bracket bolt so that it does not fall off the bracket and into the manifold.
5. PLUG the holes to the manifold with clean shop rags. I could have easily dropped the bracket bolt or my star tip down the hole resulting in a much bigger problem (thought of this as I was doing it).
6. It took me awhile to spin the new electronic ends on the injectors so that I could seat the manifold cover nicely over everything. Also putting my injectors in place I thought I was going to break the legs (wires or whatever they are). They are incredibly stiff and the V6 puts the legs scrunched positions.
7. In the future I would probably order the ACDelco with everything included such as the new bracket, and intake and throttle body gaskets.
8. For torquing it down, the V6 is different from the V8 (less bolts) . I followed the general order of the pattern to kinda match mine and did the two passes with different amounts of torque.
8. With the throttle body off, if you haven't cleaned it yet might as well. I used a wood cuticle pusher you can buy at Sallys Beauty supplies (some girl tools come in real handy) to not scratch it and carb cleaner.
9. When I started my car I thought I killed it. I heard popping from the engine and misfires. I checked that I had put the spark plug boots back on the distributor cap correctly by visually tracing the wires back to the plugs. Couldn't find what I did wrong and thought maybe I put an injector in the wrong place or dropped something in the manifold holes. Had it towed to the shop and told myself I was crazy for ripping the heart out of my car and transplanting a new one. The car shop got back to me, ran a vacuum check and fuel check (which instructions advise doing a fuel pressure check before starting the engine) which both turned out good. What happened is that I had marked my 1 and 3 wires incorrectly and had them mixed up. Even though I traced them back to the plugs, my brain was tired, confused, and just couldn't see the obvious. I'm guessing the order of putting in the injectors threw my brain off track. The shop guys plugged the boots in correctly on the distributor cap. It is a relief knowing I didn't kill my engine and do not have vacuum leaks. Have a buddy check your work. My car now runs like a champ!!
Margaret Ruskiewicz does it give u a noticeable difference in throttle response and power
Thanks for providing the extra insights. This will be helpful if I can talk myself into doing the upgrade.
Margaret Ruskiewicz if like to add a few hints!
A shop vac is really a must, when you do this!! Especially if you have an older engine! Remove the goose neck, for the thermostat, and replaced the thermostat too, while your at it!! The gooseneck is in the way slightly, and removing helps a bit!
Carb spray cleaner is the best for cleaning out a lot of the lower intake manifolds before putting the new injector spider back together! Don't spray directly into the manifold, spray a clean rag, wipe up the mess, and throw it away. Get a new clean rag, spray with carb spray, and repeat! There is no need to get the lower intake area spotless, just vacuum away the mass of the loose stuff, then the rag, and another quick vacuuming!
Throttle body cleaning is a must for this job! Be careful where you spray the carb cleaner, but be sure to make the throttle body spotless! Then use a new gasket to seal the throttle body back to the upper manifold! Clean the MAP sensor end too, but again, be careful to not spray carb cleaner directly at or into the MAP sensor!
If you are not familiar with this type of work, I suggest using the phone camera, and making yourself notes, and putting the nuts and bolts into a plastic bag, separate from each other, and mark the bag. It will make re-assembly that much easier. And you will have a reference if you forget something, or to make sure that you didn't!'
FWIW: those brown o-rings are likely Viton, not rubber like the black ones. Using rubber o-rings on a fuel system with ethanol in it will likely result in a leak in the near future, and doesn't really save any money. So, good call getting the right ones. :)
4
Without question, a very high quality video. Thank you. Before installing the injector pintel tube covers in their bores, it is a good idea to thoroughly clean out the bores of carbon buildup. I used brake cleaner and wire tube brushes to scour out the bores. Then lubricated the pintel covers with a (light) coating of trans-gel (or petroleum jelly) to make installation easier. Make sure the pintel covers seat all the way into the bore until they click. Position the electrical fuel injector connectors to keep from interfering with each other.
Good job ! I would have liked to hear the car start at least, if not to do a short run. A before and after with the two injection systems would be a very compelling selling point.
This is one of the most informative videos on auto/truck repair I have ever seen. The instructions were clear and precise and the video quality was excellent. Just because of this...I am going to switch all of my parts buying to 1A Auto!!
+Thomas Robinson Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Thanks for the help! Just completed my upgrade this weekend on my '97 K1500. I watched this video a few times before starting and it made the replacement so much easier. Other videos said you had to remove the upper radiator hose and thermostat housing, but you don't have to with your method.
If you have to do this,just go one set further and pull the entire intake out and upgrade the manifold gaskets before they leak,it makes putting the spider in much easier.
that way you can soak the manifold in oven cleaner and power wash it
I agree! It'd be kinda dumb not to since your already there especially if your over 100k cause you'll just have to redo everything again when the lower starts to leak. Plus getting all the intake runners cleaned out has to help improve flow on higher milage engines
Agree. i'm collecting parts to do this on my S-10 with 4.3ltr. Also going to R&R with new water pump and PS pump since they are buried down in front with 120K on them though they are currently working fine. I plan on keeping this pickup so only want to do this work once.
i just bought a p30 with one of these engines.. mine isnt giving problems yet but i will go ahead and do this... what a great video...
Hey thanks 1AAuto for this video. My 96 Silverado was an exact match. Your descriptive video was key to me being successful today and I want to thank you guys. Great work.
You'll want to make sure the electrical connectors on the end of the injectors are on opposite sides,if not they bump up on each other and makes getting the injectors in impossible,and make they are connected,I had come loose, luckily I caught that!
This the best how to video and most clear I have ever seen on TH-cam!
+John Payne Thank you very much! We appreciate your feedback and look forward to making more videos for you!
Great job! Clear video with good narrating, logical and to the point. One of the best I've seen.
+Daniel Ring Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
What exactly are the gains, & improvements in drivability from installing this ?
Your video should be in schools for students
My 97 yukon "Gt" has spider injection, think I might do this eventually, it's at like 200k and runs pretty good, so I might end up doing this, plus manifold gaskets to make sure I'm not going in here again at 300k.
And if it doesn't last that long I'm just gonna swap all the goodies from this one onto the next c/k I buy. These trucks are fantastic.
Just so you all know, You dont take off the throttle body unless you have to. you also can leave the fuel line connected to the lower lines coming from under the trans tunnel. just take the bolts off and move them to the side. its just extra work to remove things that you dont need to. best of luck.
Good stuff... but after watching other videos of people doing this very thing, the o-rings on the ends of fuel lines were replace and lubricated, the bores for the new injectors inside the intake manifold were lightly cleaned using a small pipe cleaner to provide a cleaner surface and lubricated for smoother insertion of the injector tubes, and the o-ring that surounds the spider assembly was also lubricated to prevent tearing while reinstalling the top manifold plenum that could ultimately cause a headache of a vacuum leak.
+Bige4u Thank you for the feedback and for watching!
Great instructional video, I may need to do this to my 97 Suburban soon and this will be a huge help!
+XSP Green Monster Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Did you do it dude? I'm thinking no if I desperately need to which I kinda do, I'll have no Choice but to, and this is like a exam at a school, taking something apart then putting back correctly, and there's just about every part involved with the engine you have to deal with...
Man...
1A Auto Parts I know this videos old but I have the upper plenum off. Are you able to clean the lower intake before reinstall? And what holes should you be careful of getting stuff in
i also label everything........I also use white foam core board to pierce and hold each bolt, item...... labeled. I keep a step by step w quick sketch on a clip board as I go....and reassemble.
Excellent Video! Straight to the point! I'm looking at doing this same upgrade, thanks so much for putting out great videos 1AAuto
It’s worth the 28 dollars to use a new gasket set every time if it comes off I’ve probably had this cover off of mine 6 times in 2 years today I’ve had problems with regulators got a new one in today finally. but that o ring around the injectors this one went on yesterday but still better to have a new set every time if you need to take it off. Just a warning lol
gaskets and mounting surfaces any time you touch anything!
You were right about forcing the spider it didn’t seal fully😢
Had a heck of a time seating the manifold cap, ended up greasing up the O-ring.
I want to add to this my truck stated to run rough almost like a miss fire when I would stop and idle also I would start it and run for a second and die start again be fine I noticed it didn't have the power like used to I installed the new spider injection no more issues starts right up and let me tell you the performance difference holy crap big difference I hope this helps you guys out their with this problem
Thank You ..That spyder your using has a nice positive snap in on the injectors. AC Delco Does not ..#5 wanted to keep coming out ..Luckily #7 is routed over the top of it to help keep the injector in place.
I had failure after installing the MPFI upgrade spider. The clip on the lower manifold that holds the control unit has sharp edges. This cut through one of the injector wires after about a week and started blowing ECM1 fuses. Truck no run. When installing the MPFI upgrade spider, take off the clip on the lower intake manifold and file the sharp edges smooth, slide the tubes already installed on the spider up to the control unit so they protect the wires. Chased possible shorts everywhere until I checked impedence on the upper manifold FI connector pins (not the harness, the connector on the manifold). Pull off the connector to the FI from upper manifold and check impedence of all the pins. With ECM1 fuse out, if any of them indicates more than 0 impedance, one of your injector wires has shorted to that clip.
Wow the quality and producción value is top notch and always seems to be improving
+Cranky Jay Thanks for checking us out, we're glad you're enjoying our videos! 1aauto.com
All with out taking the battery cable off , but you won't have to reset the radio.
Are there any o rings to put on the fuel lines before installation into the injector body?
Before installing the new seal, clean the throttle body and blades... 16:44.....
Thank you for the information
man this thing alot work...
its the same on the v6 4.3 but mine is an astro van not the pickup variant
much less space to work around the engine ..dame
oh come on it only took this guy 25 minutes
A very good video.Helped a lot,thanks.
thanks for Sharing!!!
Well I did the project on my 1996 Chevy but it still runs, ruff I’ve changed a lot of parts and it still running almost like before and have a hard time starting with put gas on the intake
Great video 💯
Magnificent 🥰
The point of this upgrade is to recalibrate the ECU for the new injectors for improved power/efficiency. Bolting in a more expensive system and complicated system without calibration is a waste of money.
NEED YOUR HELP SO MUCH
I did two of those today
Awesome job true professional great video thanks
and this is why i do flooring for a living and pay some one to work on my TRUCK
Great video, very thorough and complete in showing every step needed to do this conversion. I have a 97 K1500 that I have just upgraded with a professionally built stroker 383 displacement SBC and upgraded after market aluminum heads (I'll have to check the specs for what size valves they installed in it). I requested an RV style camshaft, for maximum low rpm torque. I'm now shopping for intake and exhaust modifications I can make that will allow me to take advantage of the added displacement with my goal of trying to maximize low speed torque for towing my trailer up mountain roads, not for high rpm HP. Is there a different after market injection intake system that I should research that can provide more torque and power, than the system shown in this video? I currently live in an area that does not require smog checks for registration renewals, so I'm open to any modifications, including complete replacement of the entire intake and exhaust system, and possibly even going backward to a carburetor and older style distributor, if I can't find any modern alternatives, though I would prefer to keep my truck as close to stock as I can, so I can keep as many modern sensors and avoid constant check engine lights due to missing equipment. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
Just think how far ahead you'd be if they woulda installed a state of the art injection system to start with, like every other manufacturer!!!🤷
Awesome video sir.I was wondering if you could tell me if this kit is available for a 1998 Chevrolet Blazer w/4.3 engine, thanks in advance.
Thanks Cool video but it doesn’t look like you carry the part the link sends you to the website but no part?
Almost 100% perfect!
Thanks for sharing!
+roadkill5333 Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Nicely put video. Straight to the point. I am going to do this to my 1999 Suburban. It has a crank but won't start symptom and I have change a bunch of stuff and still. I got spark, fuel psi, compression, charged battery, new fuel pump. Crankshaft and Camshaft sensors, distributor cap, rotor, and still. It is good on timing, that I checked with the TDC and the thing pointing to #1 spark deal in the distributor cap. It basically died in the driveway for the lack of use little by little. Any advise will be appreciated... Jose. Will keep you all posted on what happen next.
#1 at top dead center? or- you might have your distributor 180degs off.
Did you get it figured out?
Looked like a mouse nest in the air box...23:13
Just did this to my 97 Chevy 2500 5.7L. Started right up and took for a test drive. Got home parked it but now won’t start. Whole fuel system has been replaced. So not sure why it won’t start now. Battery, starter and alternator are fine and has spark. So not sure if there’s an air pocket or something in the fuel system now.
how do you take out the new injectors out of the their holes. I can’t get mine out. Trying to switch the bracket that holds it
Now what do I do with the ECU? It needs tuning to accommodate the larger injectors.
Do I need to get a new bracket or does it clip right in the old one?
$499? That’s strange because I just bought the same exact one at my local O’Reilly for $229.
Are the injectors not clipped in place??? Confused. They just sit in there??
I would also like to know this
It is a good video but what about doing one on how to diagnose bad cpi injectors or bad regulator?
+Patrick Fagnan We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
Could i use this video for my 1998 chevy Silverado
How long does this whole process take?
why no carbon cleaning the lower intake before reinstalling everything?
Yeah right ? 😅
My 99 Tahoe doesn’t have one of those evap solenoids. Weird.
how do i know what cylinder it goes too. just wnating to know before i tear into this project and have to look it up later.
How long did this repair take?
I have 1998 Silverado V8 and I have to change the spider fuel injector twice with a used spider, still doing the same thing just run for 30-40 second and cutoff am trying to buy a new spider now, Do you think that will be the best to do?
There could be multiple reasons why you're having this particular problem. We suggest taking your vehicle to a nearby reputable shop to identify the cause before completing any further repairs. +Latunde Sapara
Used parts are just that used it could be your coil your fuel pump or a computer issue take the time to check before throwing parts
remanufactured spyder injectors have been known to fail. Just upgrade to the multiport injection or buy an OEM replacement, not another reman spyder injector
What is the difference between the original vs mpfi?
Does this come with the bracket and all the seals it needs ?
All well and good but what if either your vehicle came from the factory (2005 Silverado) or already had the upgraded injectors installed at some point? My MPFI injectors are stuck in the intake manifold. How the heck do I get them out? There's nothing to pinch and I'm pulling pretty hard on them already.
Is the stock black box pcm capable of getting any true benefits from this conversion? I imagine that if you 0411 swapped the pcm, added coil packs, 24x converted it, and tuned it you would see true benefits other than having nice new clean fuel injectors. It just seems to me that improving fuel timing without improving ignition timing is kinda pointless. But idk.
do you need to change or recalibrate the computer
What is the difference between the bracket?
How do these electrical fuel injectors get signal to open and inject?
my intake manifold wont seat down, how can I either take the injectors out to mess with the bracket or get it to seat right
How much torque to put on the spider injector cover
Did you need to change bracket that holds spider
+matthew norton You do not need to change the bracket as long as your original is still in good condition.
How do u Move The Lines To open Them up to install ?
I'm doing this project and I'm new with these upgrade injectors. My ? Is do the injectors push down and snap in completely or like my 5.7 seems like the just slide in and don't completely go down all the way some of the injector plastic still visible about 5/16 of and inch they will not completely push down flush. Is the correct way?
Which engine is better mpi and efi for better fuel economy ?
Does 1a auto ship to Canada???
thanks
I just installed these on my 98 k1500 but I’m running into once issue that has held up the last 10 minutes of this whole process. The fuel lines that go into the injector block went in great at first then I realized I had to loosen the bolt on the block to get the lines connected at the firewall cause it was just too tight so I took out the lines at the injector block and everything came with it. The plastic sleeve the two o rings and also the metal washer. Since then I have not been able to get them to west back into the injector block properly. What am I doing wrong???
do i need to add adhesive
this isn't a conversion it's a replacement, it would be cool if they had a kit to actually convert a carb to an mpi system
Wish I got this instead of a factory replacement.
MAYBE I WILL JUST STICK WITH A TBI SYSTEM, NEW TECH IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER !
What’s that white wire called that’s coming from the connector, that plugs into the spider?
The retainer for the connector.
Your welcome
The white injector connector on the top does not want to fit back in. How important is it?
How do I put a 427 in my 99 Yukon slt 4x4 5spd
+Edwin James Sutphin Thanks for checking us out! We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1AAuto.com
I followed this to a t but my engine is now knocking and I don’t understand how or what could’ve caused it
no vacuum line onto the fuel pressure regulator?
The regulator is inside the plenum and exposed to engine vacuum. No need to run a vacuum hose to it.
This is my question How do you know which injector is bad if you just want to replace it. 96 5.7 chevelet pickup
+Virgil French You may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it to determine exactly which injector is bad. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Will this work with a '94?
NNoisy no the fuel injection system in a 1994 is called throttle body injection the system shown in the video is called spider injection and it is only used from 1996 to 1998 on these trucks
There’s also bolts you have that I don’t.
any insight as how to get these injectors back out after you install them i think my injectors are faulty
Use small pins to release the catches on the pintel cover from the bore, carefully pull out. Failing that, you'll have to pull the lower manifold, and push out the cover from the bottom of the manifold.
You need to clean Out the air cleaner debris catch it was half full
What Torque order for a v6 4.3 vortec engine.
On intake plenum it's
50lbs first pass
100lbs second pass
130lbs third pass
Dosen't matter that much
You call it Multiport Fuel Injection, but isn't this actually called Multiple Flexible Injection? (MFI)
I got 5.7 wrong how do I pull out to switch
I had a terrible time getting the plug of the spider through the intake manifold.
I’m having that same difficulty!! Any suggestions?
lube?
How do I remove new gen injectors ????
What do you mean exactly when you ask about removing the new gen injectors? More explanation would help.
Installed mine today and truck started right up. When I put it in gear it acts like it’s going to die then surges hard. If I press the throttle at idle it revs decent but when in gear the throttle kills it. Any advice from anyone who has installed one of these?