You're really good at explaining things! I'm really glad there are good people like yourself that are willing to take the extra time to make a video like this with good descriptions and in a clear and intelligible voice. So, thank you!
Thanks Brian! This is a great video and very helpful to me. I've been a diesel mechanic for 40 years and now I need to change the spider on my 97 Chev pickup. You really laid it out well! Thanks!
Just this weekend I completed the spider upgrade on my '97 S-10 Blazer. Your video was an invaluable help; it is very complete and accurate. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the great show, this is the 4th time I have had to go into my 1996 GMC 4.3L intake to work on the injector spider and the truck only has 96,000 mile on it because I never know when I will have to have this truck towed home. This time I change out the whole spider out with the new style after watching your show. Hopefully this will solve my long never ending problem with this GMC truck. To the die hard GM people, this truck caused me to go to Toyota in 2000 and my Toyota has over 327,000 + miles on it.
@43coolhand Make sure you've removed the retaining triangle thing from the fuel lines and unplug the electrical connector. Next use windex or spray silicone to lube the plug o-ring if needed then wiggle the manifold up off the injector plug. You may need to unbolt the AC compressor and lean it forward to get the last manifold bolt.
Awsome video, very helpfull and very clear instructions.i feel like i can tackle this thing now.i was a little unsure if i needed to remove the upper & lower together just to replace the injectors.saved me a huge headache.thanks again.
This is one of the better 'how to' videos I have seen for auto mechanics. Going to do this job in a few days on my son's 96 C1500S. Sounds doable for a knucklehead like me :-)
In training, my girlfriend is the mechanic and we watched the video like five times to be prepared. We didnt even have to open the manual. Thanks again for the help!
I don't know how I have missed his video. I have watched a dozen on this issue. But his is the best I have seen yet. I am about to do mine on my Silverado even though mine is an 05 it looks exactly like his set up. Good Job Brian.
That's the belt squeaking on the alternator pulley. The alternator is resisting because it's work horsing hard to replenish the battery drain from starting. Either your belt is loose, the battery is weak, or the alternator is failing, or your tensioner is weak.
I just purchased the new upgraded spider injector and gasket. I'm about to give it a go. Thank you so much for the helpful and informative video. It makes me much more confident going into this project
Watched your video. Replaced mine and had it back running 1 hour 45 Minutes. thanks for the vid. Only thing I did different, I didn't completely disconnect the fuel inlet lines. I replaced mine with the AC Delco part I bought online for 288.00 Truck runs like new. took two size sockets. 8mm for the fuel lines and the rest were 10mm What an easy job after watching your vid.
I Ended up changing on labor day last year 2013. Took 10 hrs, at 145k on a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne w/ 4.3. I Swear I must have watched this vid over a dozen times. Thanks Brian! I Didnt need a new bracket just an intake gasket. The Fuel Rails are backwards bc there facing you so rightey loosey ...had hard time putting back in. I Kept smelling gas DIDNT know there are o-rings on the tip of fuel rail, bought for $2 good as new!
my 1997 suburban spider injectors have worked great and they have 255,000 miles on them!!! im rebuilding the engine now and will probably do the upgrade after reading up it and watching this video
Hey Brian the fuel pump just went in the truck, its running like a hot rod.fuel pressure is 65 psi.It will light up the rears without hesitation!A lot better then it falling on its face and stalling!I Appreciate all your advice and your time!Peace!
Yes. Watch it when it's running to see if it's wobbling. Turn it off and inspect the rubber layer between the grooved part and the drive part of the pulley/dampener.
You're welcome! The distributor has to be pulled to do the lower intake manifold, but not the upper one. It IS easier to just pull it, but you don't have to.
Great job Brian......I don't even have one of these projects to do, but you explained everything so well, it kept me interested enough to watch the whole video......Thank you!!
@patrickrighton72 A pump can cause bad mileage if the pressure is too low. To test a spider injector you have to have a bench rig or just eliminate it by proving everything else is good using a lab scope, compression tester, and ensuring good timing and ignition signature.
@metropool That's actually pretty common once the injector or regulator, OR even a bad PCV valve. It's deposited by vapors that rise and accumulate there. To clean it, you pull the lower manifold and scrape the crud out and after assembly do a short run of 5 minutes at idle with motor flush and then change the oil and filter. THEN do a throttle body cleaning by pulling the vacuum line from the power brake booster and drizzle SeaFoam carb cleaner in it while running. Then clear codes.
@tikki713 It's up to you. If you have to have it be reliable and have emissions testing where you're at where your catalytic converter must work then yes for sure.
Great job Brian! So nice to see a person with some patience work on a car. Been working on cars since I was in my 20's. love getting my hands dirty ! Lol. I have a misfire on the #2 cylinder. Watching just in case I have to take it this far. Taking all the luck you can send my way! Lol
@janetwelty They are all in a line and go straight to the cylinder like spider legs straigh out with no legs crossing. Then you shove the body of the spider down and back a little. It's scary and you'll think you'll break or kink the lines, but then it barely works enough to get the upper manifold on. Some techs discard the metal bracket. I use them.
Interesting diagnosis and fix. Thanks for sharing --- For a 2000 GMC V6, 4.3 L, Does anyone know the typical life of the fuel pressure regulator ? And does anyone know the typical life of the fuel injector / poppits ? Would it be wise to replace the fuel pressure regulator and/or fuel injector / poppits after 200k miles ?
@1989bigpaul Either that or compression. I'd try to isolate which cylinder before tearing it down. You can remove the plug wires one and only one per test and have it arc to ground in a safe place like over the plug, but off the contact.
@TheFattracker You may not need to cut anything depending on your model. Bring your old one to the dealer when you get your new injector. Compare it to the updated one and you'll see if it's necessary.
I had to do this to my 2000 Trailblazer. But I didn't replace it, just cleaned it up. I should have. It's a lot of work getting to that thing. Love your videos, Keep up the good work.
have replace a couple of these. never ever replaced the one on my old 97 4.3, left it alone when i did the intake gaskets. its still running and driving perfectly, sold it over a year ago.
by far the best video on youtube describing how to replace your injectors on a 4.3 liter vortec. i was scared to do this my self because my astro van is so hard to work on. but after being quoted 450 labor i googled it and found many videos. only this one gave me the confidence to try it my self.and it worked out great. i now not only have the mpfi upgrade. i know it was done right because i did it my self. thank you brian. ;-) and the ref to brian regan is awesome. my favorite bit was the science project his was a cup of dirt lol. cheers m8
@3v1ld34d, I know it's been 6 years but did you run into any problems replacing the injectors on your van? I have a 2005 4.3 Express cargo van. Most of the engine is inside the cab. Passenger seat will have to come out, some of the dash... But I'm afraid I won't be able to get to most of the electrical connectors and bolts once inside the engine bay. What was the hardest part of the replacement?
@briansmobile1 They're a bugger! I haven't seen them leak- the lines themselves are quite tough. Naturally you want them to be clear of possible abrasions, but you're probably going to be OK. Also the new updated bracket is about half the size of the new one. This could help. I haven't seen what you're working with, but you might want to check with your local dealership's parts dept and look at the new one. That may be your hang up.
thanks brian your video was very helpfull. i just fixed my 96 chevy blazer which has one of this spider fuel injectors. i was very patient and careful like you suggested and now it runs great. before this repair i had already replaced the spark plugs, cables, O2 sensors and still had misfiring issues. the worst was the very foul odor from my exchaust which was very embarrassing to me when i came to a stop light. thanks you did a great job with your tutorial video.
Spray silicone lubricant on the o-ring for the plug. Make sure it's warm when you push the injector down on the legs. It may be necessary to twist or rotate the legs to get them to bend down with out kinking. I know it seems impossible, but it's always hard like that.
@imprezayl04 It should be battery voltage. The best check is a noid light- if you don't have one you can use a 194 bulb with the contacts straightened straight down. The fuel pressure regulator is in there too. It often leaks, but you won't know it because it's covered by the upper manifold.
If they're open on the ends (which I think you are talking about) then you leave them on. If they are the red closed ended ones or white close ended ones you take them off.
Hey Apollo, you're welcome! The most common symptom is that the vehicle runs too rich and gets horrible gas mileage. Also the check engine light will often come on with codes P0172 and P0175 Rich bank 1 and 2.
Just want add what ran into on new updated spider injectors if get aftermarket one hoses come very stiff and cant flex them very well to where tip pop off before getting them in. What i had do with mine is remove tips and put spiter injector in over for few mins to soften hoses and place injector on intake to set hoses to take memory of new bent after cooled i put tips back on pop injector back into intake which help me alot.
@asayle3r5 I did check that out- that's awesome! I'm a big proponent for having a big capable truck, a highway car that's efficient and a bike for good weather short trips. That car you're building fits that middle requirement perfect! They're fun to drive too cuz they're so easy to park and maneuver city traffic.
I just want to update you on my spider replacement. The removal was more difficult than the install but not real bad. Finished putting the new one in started the truck and it didn't fix the problem. Still had P0300 error. Worked with my mechanic and he figured it out to be the distributor is broken. more plastic crap. The cap was plastic zip tied in place and it moved. long story short it now runs like a champ. I still need to replace the dist. but that is another day. Oh compr. 140psi. 226000mi
@sdavis3231 The only way to have gas get into the oil is under the intake manifold. If it were my truck I'd pull the upper manifold and turn the key to run without starting it and see what it did. If all was OK I'd pull the lower manifold and replace the gasket.
@KickinBlazer GREAT QUESTION ALERT! because it's inside the manifold it doesn't need a hose. It's already surrounded in vacuum. Direct answer to your question: No. No hose required.
Great video. I think I have seen a couple of your other videos in the past, very helpful. You are thorough and well spoken, nice change form many "how to's"
These are NOT easy to wrestle into place. I usually lube the injectors up so they lock in, but still twist easily. This helps the lines to be able to bow as needed when you put the upper manifold on. Also be sure your work area is warm enough so the lines can flex without kinking or breaking. Even a drop light can be used to warm them if needed.
@Thenukeinabottle If you unbolt the exhaust before the cat and muffler you can alienate your neighbors AND see if it has more power. To check the plug I'd just unplug, inspect for corrosion/bent pins etc and securely plug it back in. You can pull the EGR valve off and check if it's stuck open.
Hey Brian; Good video. My son has 1998 Blazer with 4.3. I replaced the spider valve with relative ease. At first it ran really weak. I''ve removed the plenum 3 times to make sure the spider was installed correctly and that none of the injectors came out (i purchased a Delphi like the one you show). Now the engine just cranks and wont fire. I'm getting spark and there is fuel pressure (about 60 psi). See next post to continue..
I took mine apart to access the FPR and now putting it back together i don't know exactly what i'm doing. I'm studying to be a mechanic so i just learn as i go. but this would have been nice to come across before i took it apart, great job
@ckf777 The last one I did was $675 all said and done. But I'm usually half of what the dealer takes. You have the right to take your car back under your own terms. You own it, you bear the risk etc. You may owe them for diagnostics (about 90-$100), but you don't have to go with them if you don't want to once you've paid for diagnosis or whatever you contracted with them to do. Best of luck!
Thanks for doing these videos. You really are helping a lot of people and having a positive impact. You good sir Rock! I for one thank you for taking the time I am sure you have other things you would rather do than help out a bunch of strangers on the internet.
AWESOME! Now I feel more confident about tackling this fix. My van if flooding so I think my fuel pressure regulator is gone but I just wanted to see how hard it was to remove the plenum. Vans are a bit harder because of the pos of the engine inside. I will try the press first though. Thanks dude!
(*Long-story short.*) So, I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4.3L with 328,600+ miles. Original motor and transmission. Now I'm running through a problem, as usual. The engine keeps misfiring.So I went to Midas the other day to get a diagnose; They did a pressure test on the engine. It's suppose to be idling at 90 pounds per pressure, or whatever, and my engine is at 60 pounds...The engine only hesitates from a stand-still to 5 mph or so for only a couple of seconds. The check engine light comes on and off, but it's not blinking. Sometimes when it's off, there's NO hesitating. *Let me throw this in real quick.* Before this whole situation occurred, and still going on, my truck has a hard time starting if it's warmed up after me driving it around.If I drive it around and let it sit for 15 minutes-6 hours, it takes several seconds to crank. For cold start ups, it turns over PERFECTLY! When it's cold outside, under 40 degrees Fahrenheit, the check engine light comes on. I had to get a new catalytic converter... And I cleaned to mass air flow sensor. *HELP* I'm a college student and I CANNOT afford a new engine nor car.
You have to lubricate it with gasoline or spray silicone lubricant. Sometimes a manufacturer being cheap- will use an o-ring that is too fat, but close. - forget that- use the old one.
@sdavis3231 You forgot to say that your oil level is too high and rising. (Check it) Your injector lines are likely leaking on #'s 6 & 8. Probably some one replaced it and split the lines trying to get it to lay down under the manifold (new ones are TOUGH to get to submit for re assembly.
It's possible and reasonable to think you may have a kinked line. However a kink on one hole will give you a P0305 or P0306 trouble code. A bad EGR valve or plugged catalytic converter will give the same symptoms.
Spray it with spray silicone and work it back and forth. Working it back and forth will allow the silicone to get to the rubber O-ring. That always happens. I've never worked on one that was not stuck.
@meeko1589 In the mean time check the vacuum diagram on the bottom of your hood or one in the junk yard. I'll see what I can do, but it may be a while. Cheers!
@lightspeed63 To be good at anything you have to either put your hours in and wade through frustrations of exhaustive discovery in the form of failures and study, OR learn from some one who knows. I enjoy helping people advance their skill as much I as enjoy advancing my own. The karma is awesome!
So......... it's probably bad if the 99 I just bought has rtv silicone all over the square electrical plug. Thanks a lot for this vid man, This kind of an Internet resource is invaluable to the average Joe.
@Thenukeinabottle After doing any service. Clear the codes and then run it to see what comes back. Some things may be ok from the repair you did.... with any luck.
Just changed the spider injector on chevy s10 truck today thanks to your video!! Thank you so much for posting this video. Let me know if you post a video on how to replace a heater core on a chevy s10 in the future, that will be my next job. Thanks again!
I advise wherever possible, remove the hoses on manifold fittings rather than removing the fittings from the manifold or you can damage the seals during removal and replacement. The reason is because exact fitting seals for the manifold fittings usually need to be ordered from the dealer. In addition, removing the distributor cap makes it easier to access the fuel lines on a 4.3 V6.
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You're really good at explaining things! I'm really glad there are good people like yourself that are willing to take the extra time to make a video like this with good descriptions and in a clear and intelligible voice. So, thank you!
Thanks Trent!
pro trick: you can watch series at flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching a lot of movies lately.
@Fox Chaim yup, been using flixzone for years myself :D
@Fox Chaim Yup, I've been watching on Flixzone for years myself =)
@Fox Chaim yup, I've been watching on flixzone for since december myself :)
Thanks Brian! This is a great video and very helpful to me. I've been a diesel mechanic for 40 years and now I need to change the spider on my 97 Chev pickup. You really laid it out well! Thanks!
I like how clearly you explain the steps. You also sound like you are very patient and like to just help people out.
Just this weekend I completed the spider upgrade on my '97 S-10 Blazer. Your video was an invaluable help; it is very complete and accurate. Thanks for the great video!
You're most welcome Jeff!
Thanks for the great show, this is the 4th time I have had to go into my 1996 GMC 4.3L intake to work on the injector spider and the truck only has 96,000 mile on it because I never know when I will have to have this truck towed home. This time I change out the whole spider out with the new style after watching your show. Hopefully this will solve my long never ending problem with this GMC truck. To the die hard GM people, this truck caused me to go to Toyota in 2000 and my Toyota has over 327,000 + miles on it.
@43coolhand Make sure you've removed the retaining triangle thing from the fuel lines and unplug the electrical connector. Next use windex or spray silicone to lube the plug o-ring if needed then wiggle the manifold up off the injector plug. You may need to unbolt the AC compressor and lean it forward to get the last manifold bolt.
Awsome video, very helpfull and very clear instructions.i feel like i can tackle this thing now.i was a little unsure if i needed to remove the upper & lower together just to replace the injectors.saved me a huge headache.thanks again.
This is one of the better 'how to' videos I have seen for auto mechanics. Going to do this job in a few days on my son's 96 C1500S. Sounds doable for a knucklehead like me :-)
In training, my girlfriend is the mechanic and we watched the video like five times to be prepared. We didnt even have to open the manual. Thanks again for the help!
I don't know how I have missed his video. I have watched a dozen on this issue. But his is the best I have seen yet. I am about to do mine on my Silverado even though mine is an 05 it looks exactly like his set up. Good Job Brian.
This is an older video, but I’m working on a 1996 GMC JIMMY. Your videos are so helpful. Thank you!!
Welcome Mike- glad to hear it!
@dude81869 The regulator is on the end of the unit. It doesn't need a vacuum hose because inside the manifold it gets vacuum directly. GREAT QUESTION!
Best explanation I've ever heard fuel injector upgrade! Now I totally understand what's the difference is
That's the belt squeaking on the alternator pulley. The alternator is resisting because it's work horsing hard to replenish the battery drain from starting. Either your belt is loose, the battery is weak, or the alternator is failing, or your tensioner is weak.
I just purchased the new upgraded spider injector and gasket. I'm about to give it a go. Thank you so much for the helpful and informative video. It makes me much more confident going into this project
Watched your video. Replaced mine and had it back running 1 hour 45 Minutes. thanks for the vid. Only thing I did different, I didn't completely disconnect the fuel inlet lines. I replaced mine with the AC Delco part I bought online for 288.00 Truck runs like new. took two size sockets. 8mm for the fuel lines and the rest were 10mm What an easy job after watching your vid.
I Ended up changing on labor day last year 2013. Took 10 hrs, at 145k on a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne w/ 4.3. I Swear I must have watched this vid over a dozen times. Thanks Brian! I Didnt need a new bracket just an intake gasket. The Fuel Rails are backwards bc there facing you so rightey loosey ...had hard time putting back in. I Kept smelling gas DIDNT know there are o-rings on the tip of fuel rail, bought for $2 good as new!
my 1997 suburban spider injectors have worked great and they have 255,000 miles on them!!! im rebuilding the engine now and will probably do the upgrade after reading up it and watching this video
Hey Brian the fuel pump just went in the truck, its running like a hot rod.fuel pressure is 65 psi.It will light up the rears without hesitation!A lot better then it falling on its face and stalling!I Appreciate all your advice and your time!Peace!
Yes. Watch it when it's running to see if it's wobbling. Turn it off and inspect the rubber layer between the grooved part and the drive part of the pulley/dampener.
You're welcome! The distributor has to be pulled to do the lower intake manifold, but not the upper one. It IS easier to just pull it, but you don't have to.
best video on line, i think you are an excellent instructor. thank you for taking your time to explain the spider.
Great job Brian......I don't even have one of these projects to do, but you explained everything so well, it kept me interested enough to watch the whole video......Thank you!!
don David i agree with you..
@patrickrighton72 A pump can cause bad mileage if the pressure is too low. To test a spider injector you have to have a bench rig or just eliminate it by proving everything else is good using a lab scope, compression tester, and ensuring good timing and ignition signature.
Yep. You must be a smart guy! Manufacturing costs are less, but cost of ownership is much higher.
You're welcome Jeff- glad I could be a part of it!
Yes they do. You can buy the individual injectors for like $80 each or the fuel pres reg separately.
@metropool That's actually pretty common once the injector or regulator, OR even a bad PCV valve. It's deposited by vapors that rise and accumulate there. To clean it, you pull the lower manifold and scrape the crud out and after assembly do a short run of 5 minutes at idle with motor flush and then change the oil and filter. THEN do a throttle body cleaning by pulling the vacuum line from the power brake booster and drizzle SeaFoam carb cleaner in it while running. Then clear codes.
@tikki713 It's up to you. If you have to have it be reliable and have emissions testing where you're at where your catalytic converter must work then yes for sure.
Great job Brian! So nice to see a person with some patience work on a car. Been working on cars since I was in my 20's. love getting my hands dirty ! Lol. I have a misfire on the #2 cylinder. Watching just in case I have to take it this far. Taking all the luck you can send my way! Lol
@janetwelty They are all in a line and go straight to the cylinder like spider legs straigh out with no legs crossing. Then you shove the body of the spider down and back a little. It's scary and you'll think you'll break or kink the lines, but then it barely works enough to get the upper manifold on. Some techs discard the metal bracket. I use them.
Brian cheers to you! My truck and I thank you!! Oh and my girl too.
You're welcome- thanks for the love! The dislikes are from technicians (I'm pretty sure) who don't like how-to videos like this.
Interesting diagnosis and fix. Thanks for sharing --- For a 2000 GMC V6, 4.3 L, Does anyone know the typical life of the fuel pressure regulator ? And does anyone know the typical life of the fuel injector / poppits ? Would it be wise to replace the fuel pressure regulator and/or fuel injector / poppits after 200k miles ?
Thanks Rene, great to have you along!
@1989bigpaul Either that or compression. I'd try to isolate which cylinder before tearing it down. You can remove the plug wires one and only one per test and have it arc to ground in a safe place like over the plug, but off the contact.
@thesumbum21 Glad you liked it. Subscribe for more!
@chriselliswest I recommend focusing on what you love. And then take off the manifold to get to it.
@TheFattracker You may not need to cut anything depending on your model. Bring your old one to the dealer when you get your new injector. Compare it to the updated one and you'll see if it's necessary.
I had to do this to my 2000 Trailblazer. But I didn't replace it, just cleaned it up. I should have. It's a lot of work getting to that thing. Love your videos, Keep up the good work.
have replace a couple of these. never ever replaced the one on my old 97 4.3, left it alone when i did the intake gaskets. its still running and driving perfectly, sold it over a year ago.
by far the best video on youtube describing how to replace your injectors on a 4.3 liter vortec. i was scared to do this my self because my astro van is so hard to work on. but after being quoted 450 labor i googled it and found many videos. only this one gave me the confidence to try it my self.and it worked out great. i now not only have the mpfi upgrade. i know it was done right because i did it my self. thank you brian. ;-) and the ref to brian regan is awesome. my favorite bit was the science project his was a cup of dirt lol. cheers m8
@3v1ld34d, I know it's been 6 years but did you run into any problems replacing the injectors on your van? I have a 2005 4.3 Express cargo van. Most of the engine is inside the cab. Passenger seat will have to come out, some of the dash... But I'm afraid I won't be able to get to most of the electrical connectors and bolts once inside the engine bay. What was the hardest part of the replacement?
alot of good information i might try this myself on my poc gmc jimmy since it didnt seem that over the top.
@briansmobile1 They're a bugger! I haven't seen them leak- the lines themselves are quite tough. Naturally you want them to be clear of possible abrasions, but you're probably going to be OK. Also the new updated bracket is about half the size of the new one. This could help. I haven't seen what you're working with, but you might want to check with your local dealership's parts dept and look at the new one. That may be your hang up.
@Thenukeinabottle Could be the plug on top of the injector. Could also be an egr issue or blocked exhaust.
thanks brian your video was very helpfull. i just fixed my 96 chevy blazer which has one of this spider fuel injectors. i was very patient and careful like you suggested and now it runs great. before this repair i had already replaced the spark plugs, cables, O2 sensors and still had misfiring issues. the worst was the very foul odor from my exchaust which was very embarrassing to me when i came to a stop light. thanks you did a great job with your tutorial video.
Great info, very detailed! I thank God for TH-cam and individuals such as yourself!
One again thank you and God Bless!
Spray silicone lubricant on the o-ring for the plug. Make sure it's warm when you push the injector down on the legs. It may be necessary to twist or rotate the legs to get them to bend down with out kinking. I know it seems impossible, but it's always hard like that.
@imprezayl04 It should be battery voltage. The best check is a noid light- if you don't have one you can use a 194 bulb with the contacts straightened straight down. The fuel pressure regulator is in there too. It often leaks, but you won't know it because it's covered by the upper manifold.
@ALLPISSED It ran really rough before, it ran awesome afterwards. Of course I replaced the upper intake manifold gasket at the same time.
You're welcome- and thanks for the specific feedback! I love that!
If they're open on the ends (which I think you are talking about) then you leave them on. If they are the red closed ended ones or white close ended ones you take them off.
@nick20mob It MAY, but I'd check for fuel leaks between the top of the tank and the intake first. (more likely)
Hey Apollo, you're welcome! The most common symptom is that the vehicle runs too rich and gets horrible gas mileage. Also the check engine light will often come on with codes P0172 and P0175 Rich bank 1 and 2.
@Catchmeoffshore Make sure the gasket is good and installed correctly. Also make sure your injector is in the the bracket in the middle.
Just want add what ran into on new updated spider injectors if get aftermarket one hoses come very stiff and cant flex them very well to where tip pop off before getting them in. What i had do with mine is remove tips and put spiter injector in over for few mins to soften hoses and place injector on intake to set hoses to take memory of new bent after cooled i put tips back on pop injector back into intake which help me alot.
It's a plastic spacer. I use a real dental pick. It takes some technique, but isn't too bad.
Come on guys,524K views and only 2300 likes?Great video Brian,I've done this job before but it's been awhile and wanted to refresh my memory.Thanks!
@asayle3r5 I did check that out- that's awesome! I'm a big proponent for having a big capable truck, a highway car that's efficient and a bike for good weather short trips. That car you're building fits that middle requirement perfect! They're fun to drive too cuz they're so easy to park and maneuver city traffic.
briansmobile1 is the fuel system pressurized
@70soundwave You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback.
I just want to update you on my spider replacement. The removal was more difficult than the install but not real bad. Finished putting the new one in started the truck and it didn't fix the problem. Still had P0300 error. Worked with my mechanic and he figured it out to be the distributor is broken. more plastic crap. The cap was plastic zip tied in place and it moved. long story short it now runs like a champ. I still need to replace the dist. but that is another day. Oh compr. 140psi. 226000mi
@sdavis3231 The only way to have gas get into the oil is under the intake manifold. If it were my truck I'd pull the upper manifold and turn the key to run without starting it and see what it did. If all was OK I'd pull the lower manifold and replace the gasket.
@KickinBlazer GREAT QUESTION ALERT! because it's inside the manifold it doesn't need a hose. It's already surrounded in vacuum. Direct answer to your question: No. No hose required.
Great video. I think I have seen a couple of your other videos in the past, very helpful. You are thorough and well spoken, nice change form many "how to's"
These are NOT easy to wrestle into place. I usually lube the injectors up so they lock in, but still twist easily. This helps the lines to be able to bow as needed when you put the upper manifold on. Also be sure your work area is warm enough so the lines can flex without kinking or breaking. Even a drop light can be used to warm them if needed.
@Thenukeinabottle If you unbolt the exhaust before the cat and muffler you can alienate your neighbors AND see if it has more power. To check the plug I'd just unplug, inspect for corrosion/bent pins etc and securely plug it back in. You can pull the EGR valve off and check if it's stuck open.
@csrichardson1 You're welcome. Thanks for commenting and rating thumbs up!
Great video! My 96 yukon has over 302, 000 miles and it's time to change injectors and fuel pump. At least that's what I think. Thanks for the video.
Hey Brian; Good video. My son has 1998 Blazer with 4.3. I replaced the spider valve with relative ease. At first it ran really weak. I''ve removed the plenum 3 times to make sure the spider was installed correctly and that none of the injectors came out (i purchased a Delphi like the one you show). Now the engine just cranks and wont fire. I'm getting spark and there is fuel pressure (about 60 psi). See next post to continue..
I took mine apart to access the FPR and now putting it back together i don't know exactly what i'm doing. I'm studying to be a mechanic so i just learn as i go. but this would have been nice to come across before i took it apart, great job
@ckf777 The last one I did was $675 all said and done. But I'm usually half of what the dealer takes. You have the right to take your car back under your own terms. You own it, you bear the risk etc. You may owe them for diagnostics (about 90-$100), but you don't have to go with them if you don't want to once you've paid for diagnosis or whatever you contracted with them to do. Best of luck!
You are very articulate in explaining the process...thanks dude!
CPI to MPFI.. i cant remember how MANY i have done in astrovans. I would LOVE to do one in a pickup.. Lucky man lucky man
Thanks for doing these videos. You really are helping a lot of people and having a positive impact. You good sir Rock! I for one thank you for taking the time I am sure you have other things you would rather do than help out a bunch of strangers on the internet.
CONGRATULATIONS! I'm so happy for you- you're loving it!
AWESOME! Now I feel more confident about tackling this fix.
My van if flooding so I think my fuel pressure regulator is gone but I just wanted to see how hard it was to remove the plenum. Vans are a bit harder because of the pos of the engine inside. I will try the press first though.
Thanks dude!
(*Long-story short.*)
So, I have a 97 Chevy Blazer 4.3L with 328,600+ miles. Original motor and transmission. Now I'm running through a problem, as usual. The engine keeps misfiring.So I went to Midas the other day to get a diagnose; They did a pressure test on the engine. It's suppose to be idling at 90 pounds per pressure, or whatever, and my engine is at 60 pounds...The engine only hesitates from a stand-still to 5 mph or so for only a couple of seconds. The check engine light comes on and off, but it's not blinking. Sometimes when it's off, there's NO hesitating.
*Let me throw this in real quick.* Before this whole situation occurred, and still going on, my truck has a hard time starting if it's warmed up after me driving it around.If I drive it around and let it sit for 15 minutes-6 hours, it takes several seconds to crank. For cold start ups, it turns over PERFECTLY! When it's cold outside, under 40 degrees Fahrenheit, the check engine light comes on.
I had to get a new catalytic converter... And I cleaned to mass air flow sensor.
*HELP* I'm a college student and I CANNOT afford a new engine nor car.
Xtwonine check for vacuum leaks on manifold to head junction very common lean misfire on GM . Also fuel pressure regulator leaks on Spyder injector .
Very good presentation. Keep up posting, especially on the post 1998 Chevy Blazer, seeing Chevy had a hard time getting it right. Thanks!
I hope I never have to do this on my Astro, but if I do, I'll study this video carefully. Love the Brian Regan reference, btw. You too!
You have to lubricate it with gasoline or spray silicone lubricant. Sometimes a manufacturer being cheap- will use an o-ring that is too fat, but close. - forget that- use the old one.
Thanks Brian. You've helped me a whole lot between my 450x and my truck.
@sdavis3231 You forgot to say that your oil level is too high and rising. (Check it) Your injector lines are likely leaking on #'s 6 & 8. Probably some one replaced it and split the lines trying to get it to lay down under the manifold (new ones are TOUGH to get to submit for re assembly.
It's possible and reasonable to think you may have a kinked line. However a kink on one hole will give you a P0305 or P0306 trouble code. A bad EGR valve or plugged catalytic converter will give the same symptoms.
@pabstmoneymike You can use the old one, often you will have to cut it.
Lucas has a good injector cleaner. Seafoam is a good brand as well.
@ripit410s I use a combination of different length 3/8ths drive extensions.
@nelsondavid33 That's pretty text book for either a bad fuel delivery system or injection system that allows for gas backflow to occur.
@terribletodd88 Thanks for the comment.
Thank God I watched your videos. I was worried how I was going to get the Torx bolt out
Spray it with spray silicone and work it back and forth. Working it back and forth will allow the silicone to get to the rubber O-ring. That always happens. I've never worked on one that was not stuck.
I’ll be getting into this job soon. You video is very helpful. Thanks for doing it.
@patrickrighton72 Loud is common among good pumps. I can tell by the tone. REALLY loud is not good though. It may be the thing to do.
@meeko1589 In the mean time check the vacuum diagram on the bottom of your hood or one in the junk yard. I'll see what I can do, but it may be a while. Cheers!
Thank you for the how to video, well done sir! Question, could you provide the part number for the "updated" part? Thank you!
@lightspeed63 To be good at anything you have to either put your hours in and wade through frustrations of exhaustive discovery in the form of failures and study, OR learn from some one who knows. I enjoy helping people advance their skill as much I as enjoy advancing my own. The karma is awesome!
So......... it's probably bad if the 99 I just bought has rtv silicone all over the square electrical plug. Thanks a lot for this vid man,
This kind of an Internet resource is invaluable to the average Joe.
@metropool Worst case scenario is intake valves not seating all the way for a while creating a temporary misfire.
@Thenukeinabottle After doing any service. Clear the codes and then run it to see what comes back. Some things may be ok from the repair you did.... with any luck.
Just changed the spider injector on chevy s10 truck today thanks to your video!! Thank you so much for posting this video. Let me know if you post a video on how to replace a heater core on a chevy s10 in the future, that will be my next job. Thanks again!
I advise wherever possible, remove the hoses on manifold fittings rather than removing the fittings from the manifold or you can damage the seals during removal and replacement. The reason is because exact fitting seals for the manifold fittings usually need to be ordered from the dealer. In addition, removing the distributor cap makes it easier to access the fuel lines on a 4.3 V6.
@taco11488 The new ones from the dealership parts department as of the time of this video came with the fuel pressure regulator.