Obviously originally designed to never have to come apart in service, As usual Ford are happy to pass the costs on to Future Owners when it doesn't work as designed.
The reason Ford went from 18mm to 16mm belts was to reduce shoulder wear due to swelling cause by the oil immersion. You should only really see the 18mm belts on older engines (exact month/year depending on model) but all newer engines will have the 16mm from factory. The 16mm belt can be fitted to all ages as no other changes were made. A note regarding the timing cover at 9:44 make sure you fill the little keyway slot above the coolant pump o-ring with sealant to prevent oil from reaching the o-ring and causing it to swell (and leaking). That's the reason the new o-rings no longer have locating tabs on them to allow you to fill the slot in. Newer timing covers don't have the slot. Great idea re the IR camera!
Hi Mathew, my car is 62 plate focus with 100 HP. I checked with Ford for the correct size timing belt. They said I need to remove the belt to visually check and confirm the size if the belt. They can't tell if it is 18mm or 16mm for my car. Can I use 16 mm belt for the replacement if there is 18 mm belt already in it. Please suggest me.
Hi Balan,yes the 16mm belt is backwards compatible even when an 18mm was originally fitted as there have been no other changes made in that area (e.g. different sprockets). I wouldn't worry too much though as Ford seemingly weren't concerned enough about the wider belt to warrant an immediate change i.e. they appear to have introduced it in stages for different models and, presumably, different manufacturing plants - perhaps to use up existing/committed stock. Furthermore, the change was made only two years or so after first release and I doubt there were all that many (if any?) belt failures in that time and so the design change was likely done as a precaution, perhaps based on input from Dayco as the belt manufacturer based on their experiences with other engines (e.g. the PSA 1.2L Puretech engine has a wet belt and a special tool was released to easily check if that belt had swollen beyond acceptable limits so it is a well-known issue).
@@mathewnewton3499 thanks for the confirmation Mathew. Also I would like to know if doing the replacement of wet belts and water pump would add up the reliability of the car. Can I use the car for atleast another 50k miles with timely oil change. Many users of Ecoboost cars suggest in some forums to not go for wet belt replacement due to failure and get rid of the car. Please suggest me. Also can I use Dayco wet belts and water pump as Ford OEM parts are very expensive than Dayco.
The wet belt is certainly a serviceable item and so definitely needs doing. The water pump is less critical, however whilst it is not driven by the timing belt (the usual reason for definitely justifying a change) it does need removing to remove the timing cover anyway and so whilst it is off it is arguably worth doing. Dayco belts are absolutely fine and indeed are Ford's OEM supplier and so they will be the exact same belt but just different markings (and prices as you've found!). In terms of furture longevity then, yes, regular oil changes (every 6-7k miles / 6 months is my recommendation) will see you fine. I recently changed the belt on my wife's Fiesta and it was 10 yrs old and had done 75k miles - barely any sign of wet belt degradation and I put that down to regular oil changes (not quite the schedule above - I should practice what I preach!).
@@mathewnewton3499 thank you so much for the clarification. I will go ahead with the wet belt replacement along with water pump and I will use Dayco brand water pump as well. Some suppliers from eBay giving as a whole Dayco kit for less than 200 pounds which contains pretty much everything that includes both belts, water pump, tensioner and required bolts too. I will get back if I need any other information. Thanks again.
Very good job. I diy these belts,there are 2 widths of timing belt,18 and 16 mm,they went from 18 to 16 in september 2013. When I did the cranckshaft bolt, I used a 3/4 torque wrench for the 300Nm,and set it to the max 450 Nm for the final 90degrees,it actually clicked..I replaced the injector O rings ,one injector popped out the head on removing the common rail,the seal on the tip of the injector can be replaced by hand,Iwas able to slide it back in the head,it can be done. The job is time consuming ,but not difficult I think, and without torque multiplier you definately need a car lift. The coolant bleeds itself in my experience. Really informative video how it should be done,congrats!
This explains why my 2014 C-Max had a 16mm belt fitted but replaced it with an 18mm because Ford staff at my local dealer told me the wrong belt had been fitted as they probably ran out at the factory so popped a 16mm on as it did the job , but 2 years on mines still running fine on an 18mm belt & the next will be another 18. I still to this day don’t know why the change as I thought only the fiestas had the 16 due to less stress on the engine block because my C-Max unladen is almost heavier than a fully laden fiesta (seriously it is at nearly 1500KG unladen & nearly 2000KG fully laden) a fiesta is probably max 1600 laden . I did exactly what you did with the torque wrench on tightening the crank bolt but did use a multiplier on undoing, I had to as it was that tight !
@@richie674 I guess checking with the VIN is always best, Why Ford narrowed it,I have no idea,cost,less friction..who knows. If your cranckshaft is properly locked,flywheel locked with the tool, to my opinion you don't need the multiplier, but you do need a car lift and 3/4 inch torque wrench/breaker bar cause yes, it's tight ! It's a good alternative for a DIY who doesn't want to spend that much money on a torque multiplier, good it worked for you too.
Me and my old man just done my mums, It's a time consuming job but not too difficult. Just so much stuff has got to come out lol. We did it on the drive with axle stands , took us about 10hours or so all in , I'm sure you're much quicker now with the ramp and your experience. Your videos helped us masively !
The 1.0 EcoBoost engine itself is very good but it's the wet belt that is very sensitive unfortunately for the right oil (5W-20 948b spec) and change the oil and filter at maximum 15000km. Short driving don't help because fuel are getting in the oil and degrade the wet belt. If the car are driven short distances i recommend to change the oil and filter every 10000 km. Along with Ford also Peugeot and Vauxhall has the same problem with the wet belt when its not serviced properly in time and etc. I don't like the wet belt but if serviced properly it should last within the interval of the wet belt. I'm subscribing. Great video 👍
I have one with 60k miles that crank but doesn’t turn on I haven’t open it but I don’t know at this point if is the bottom belt no idea. Have you see that happened before?
@Harleymike_48 Probably sounds like oil starvation, it may be the belt for the oil pump that's gone bad or oil pick-up is clogged with debris from the wet belt but the engine must be open up for closer inspection.
Good Lad! Smashing videos! I must admit i never watch any other videos fully on TH-cam.. But yours bud are nice and easy to watch with plenty of handy info!
My son has a very early 2012 fiesta 1.0 nearing 80k miles so was thinking about doing this but I don't have the timing tools or torque multiplier. Ford quoted £1700 which is silly money to spend on a car of that age, how much do you charge Baz?
Addition to post below, I’m sure it’s not the crank bearings, it’s like the oil runs back t the sump and it’s noisy till it gets oil pressure back, like a valve is stuck open. Love the videos Blaz.
Interesting that that focus was a pre face lift car and must be around 10 years old. The oil pick up was clean and the old belts looked in good condition.
A lot of these engines are nigh on 10 years old now, most of the problems will be from people buying cars with more mistery than history. Skipped services, wrong oil used, general lack of maintenance. Personally i think it is a good engine. I bought an 18 plate C Max with this engine at 9k miles, it's now just shy of 30k. Every 6 months regardless of mileage I drop the oil and filter. No point in cheaping out, just use the fully synthetic Castrol 5-20 which comes in around £60 for 5 litres plus get a decent oil filter. Next service I will drop the sump to check the belt and pick up i think.
This seems to not be a joke, the belt is disintegrating. I found textile in oil at 29.000 miles, third oil change. Always used the original recommended oil.
Great video, very informative. On the new ford focus where the turbo is on the rear of the engine, does that indicate a cam chain, and wet belt on the oil pump. Any advice would be most welcomed. Phone ford totally useless. I have 4 local garage giving conflicting information 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
Hi, great job, man. I am curious is there any practical way for the timing belt condition assessment and which is more important with correct servicing (oil grade/change) what is your recommendation (mileage/years) for the belt to be replaced?
Gates sell a belt sizing tool, it's a long rod you insert through the oil filter cap and it has 2 little tabs at the end the belt should sit comfortably between the tabs, if it has to be forced or doesn't fit at all it indicates the belt is breaking down and has swelled
Question?, with the torque multiplier you have to turn it 5 times 90°, but do you turn it 5 times 90° on te torque multiplier or do you turn de cranckshaft bolt 5 times 90°
Need to take your crank pulley alignment pin out dude . After the initial torque . I’ve seen them snap the hole otherwise And I leave The fuel pump . You don’t need to remove it to remove the cam cover . Slides right out no problem
I have one with 60k miles that crank but doesn’t turn on I haven’t open it but I don’t know at this point if is the bottom belt no idea. Have you see that happened before?
Hi, I have a 1.0 Ecoboost and if you leave overnight and start the next morning it has a mechanical growl for 2 or 3 seconds until the oil light goes out, it’s if left for a couple of hours and runs fine, any ideas on the fault? Raymond.
Hi, my car is 62 plate focus with 100 HP. I checked with Ford for the correct size timing belt. They said I need to remove the belt to visually check and confirm the size if the belt. They can't tell if it is 18mm or 16mm for my car. Can I use 16 mm belt for the replacement if there is 18 mm belt already in it. Please suggest me.
Hi there, I have a 2013 focus EcoBoost it’s done 61000 mit and it’s started playing up at around 40mph lacking power, I’m worried it might be the wet belt,??? Or does it have a chain and a Cambelt, need help please
Hi, nice job, Where’s your location? I would really like to send my car over there for a new wet belt, I was hoping to see the car model I drive in your garage, but I think the work is probably the same. mine is a 69 plate Ford focus , 34,168 miles, I might be able to drive 16k miles more, I hope
Hi. I would like to ask where are you based and how much do you charge for this job. I have s Fiesta from 2019 with 30000 miles on the clock. So I am thinking if I need to change it now or bit later. Thank.
Some are chain from 2019...if the belt cover (left side of engine if standing at front of car) is black plastic it's a belt.....if silver/metal it's a chain. If a chain the big silver heat shield dead centre at the front of the engine will not be there either.
Just had ours done £1200...🤯 no water pump while all apart? ours was good inside belt hard like plastic but no bits 10 years max is the time to change..
What's the book time on the job if you don't mind me asking. Only asking I work for Vauxhall/Peugeot/citroe. We have the wet belts but don't need to remove all of this to replace them
They must be alot easier....my local (a friends garage) charge £400 for the Citroen.....£800-£900 for the Ford....the Ford is a full day if all goes well and if bolts don't break or are seized (exhaust and air con pump usually)
@bazmeredith. Great video, you know your stuff. I have a late Sept 2018 (68 plate)Focus Ecoboost 1.0 (125PS) ST-Line and until last night was unaware of the wet-belt problems leading to complete engine failure even around 50K miles. Mine is 53000 miles. Been reading up on many forums and Facebook groups, people with well maintained cars with full Ford service history experiencing failures incl brake failures. I have been extremely concerned and scared to drive it. I have seen a number of comments say the Mk4 Focus from 2018 changed to a timing chain. I commented on a post on Ford Owners Club forum asking for advice. A member seen my engine photo and said it was chain rather belt. Is there any way I can send you a photo, or link to one to see if you know if its chain or belt? On the Ford Owners forum I was told that the engine fitted in my car (07 JUNE 18) was one of the first of the new engines. A few days ago the One Show on BBC1 had a section on the Ford wet-belt problems customers have been facing. Ford USA doing a selected recall now on certain models
Los nuevos motores con cadena de distribución son distintos visualmente, llevan el colector de escape y el turbo detras del bloque. Los anteriores con correa húmeda llevan el turbo delante. De todas formas en los nuevos motores la bomba de aceite es movida por una correa húmeda. Los problemas surgen cuando se utiliza un aceite diferente al homologado por Ford para ecoboost. Incluso en los motores nuevos con cadena, debe utilizar el aceite recomendado por dos razones, por la correa de la bomba de aceite y por la lubricación de los cilindros al tener una arquitectura de construcción y pulido muy especifico. Cuida los mantenimientos, vigila los niveles con regularidad, cuida los tiempos del turbo y tendrás coche para mucho tiempo.
it needs to be replaced. Every strech bolt needs replacement, because it lengthened after the install. Go back to the garage and get that fixed. Its a bad job
I have been told that if the turbo is on the rear of the engine it has a cam chain and lower wet belt on the oil pump. But I have been trying to get this confirmed as my local garage says no, two wet belts. Called ford were we purchased the car, totally useless they said call a service agent
Nothing wrong the wet belt cam belt engine, sadly most people don’t change the oil regularly enough. 8000-10000 miles is fine if you use the car/van. Lots of short trips and lack of oil changes don’t help with wear to a cam belt.
@@markbro4427 if I'm not mistaking: that had something to do with a cooloant hose or plastic piece that started to leak while driving. As many people never check oillevel, or coolantlevel, the engines overheated causing the cilinderhead to bend like a banana or pistons scratching the cilinderwalls. Repairing (this kind of repairs is actually impossible) was more expensive than replacing
@@joskd8491yeah....mate works from home and serviced a few. When they were giving coolant problems I remember him saying he gave the hose or pipe a twist to finish it of and told the owner to take it to Ford, in all cases they replaced the engine.
Cambelts in oil were such a good idea Ford went back to a timing chain on the 1.0 ecoboost in 2018. I like the new Focus but I'd never buy the wet belt version.
@@joskd8491 Oil pump its still a wet belt unfortuly. Hard to understant why they keep it, since you will need to remove the chain to replace the oil pump belt..
What a crok of shit idea, when i first came to the trade, early 90's the old boy who trained me, said any oil on a belt fix the leak and change the belt. NO OIL ON ANY BELT. bad bad idea
Any idea what this would cost in U.S. dollars? 10 percent the cost of the car? Manufacturers should pay for the expenses that their stupidity causes. Stupid should hurt. Engine could have had chains for just a little more money.
Obviously originally designed to never have to come apart in service, As usual Ford are happy to pass the costs on to Future Owners when it doesn't work as designed.
Well considering it's a service item... it should have been designed to be taken apart, like the PSA 1.2 puretech is.
The reason Ford went from 18mm to 16mm belts was to reduce shoulder wear due to swelling cause by the oil immersion. You should only really see the 18mm belts on older engines (exact month/year depending on model) but all newer engines will have the 16mm from factory. The 16mm belt can be fitted to all ages as no other changes were made. A note regarding the timing cover at 9:44 make sure you fill the little keyway slot above the coolant pump o-ring with sealant to prevent oil from reaching the o-ring and causing it to swell (and leaking). That's the reason the new o-rings no longer have locating tabs on them to allow you to fill the slot in. Newer timing covers don't have the slot. Great idea re the IR camera!
Hi Mathew, my car is 62 plate focus with 100 HP. I checked with Ford for the correct size timing belt. They said I need to remove the belt to visually check and confirm the size if the belt. They can't tell if it is 18mm or 16mm for my car. Can I use 16 mm belt for the replacement if there is 18 mm belt already in it. Please suggest me.
Hi Balan,yes the 16mm belt is backwards compatible even when an 18mm was originally fitted as there have been no other changes made in that area (e.g. different sprockets). I wouldn't worry too much though as Ford seemingly weren't concerned enough about the wider belt to warrant an immediate change i.e. they appear to have introduced it in stages for different models and, presumably, different manufacturing plants - perhaps to use up existing/committed stock. Furthermore, the change was made only two years or so after first release and I doubt there were all that many (if any?) belt failures in that time and so the design change was likely done as a precaution, perhaps based on input from Dayco as the belt manufacturer based on their experiences with other engines (e.g. the PSA 1.2L Puretech engine has a wet belt and a special tool was released to easily check if that belt had swollen beyond acceptable limits so it is a well-known issue).
@@mathewnewton3499 thanks for the confirmation Mathew. Also I would like to know if doing the replacement of wet belts and water pump would add up the reliability of the car. Can I use the car for atleast another 50k miles with timely oil change. Many users of Ecoboost cars suggest in some forums to not go for wet belt replacement due to failure and get rid of the car. Please suggest me. Also can I use Dayco wet belts and water pump as Ford OEM parts are very expensive than Dayco.
The wet belt is certainly a serviceable item and so definitely needs doing. The water pump is less critical, however whilst it is not driven by the timing belt (the usual reason for definitely justifying a change) it does need removing to remove the timing cover anyway and so whilst it is off it is arguably worth doing. Dayco belts are absolutely fine and indeed are Ford's OEM supplier and so they will be the exact same belt but just different markings (and prices as you've found!). In terms of furture longevity then, yes, regular oil changes (every 6-7k miles / 6 months is my recommendation) will see you fine. I recently changed the belt on my wife's Fiesta and it was 10 yrs old and had done 75k miles - barely any sign of wet belt degradation and I put that down to regular oil changes (not quite the schedule above - I should practice what I preach!).
@@mathewnewton3499 thank you so much for the clarification. I will go ahead with the wet belt replacement along with water pump and I will use Dayco brand water pump as well. Some suppliers from eBay giving as a whole Dayco kit for less than 200 pounds which contains pretty much everything that includes both belts, water pump, tensioner and required bolts too. I will get back if I need any other information. Thanks again.
Very good job. I diy these belts,there are 2 widths of timing belt,18 and 16 mm,they went from 18 to 16 in september 2013. When I did the cranckshaft bolt, I used a 3/4 torque wrench for the 300Nm,and set it to the max 450 Nm for the final 90degrees,it actually clicked..I replaced the injector O rings ,one injector popped out the head on removing the common rail,the seal on the tip of the injector can be replaced by hand,Iwas able to slide it back in the head,it can be done. The job is time consuming ,but not difficult I think, and without torque multiplier you definately need a car lift. The coolant bleeds itself in my experience. Really informative video how it should be done,congrats!
This explains why my 2014 C-Max had a 16mm belt fitted but replaced it with an 18mm because Ford staff at my local dealer told me the wrong belt had been fitted as they probably ran out at the factory so popped a 16mm on as it did the job , but 2 years on mines still running fine on an 18mm belt & the next will be another 18. I still to this day don’t know why the change as I thought only the fiestas had the 16 due to less stress on the engine block because my C-Max unladen is almost heavier than a fully laden fiesta (seriously it is at nearly 1500KG unladen & nearly 2000KG fully laden) a fiesta is probably max 1600 laden . I did exactly what you did with the torque wrench on tightening the crank bolt but did use a multiplier on undoing, I had to as it was that tight !
@@richie674 I guess checking with the VIN is always best, Why Ford narrowed it,I have no idea,cost,less friction..who knows. If your cranckshaft is properly locked,flywheel locked with the tool, to my opinion you don't need the multiplier, but you do need a car lift and 3/4 inch torque wrench/breaker bar cause yes, it's tight ! It's a good alternative for a DIY who doesn't want to spend that much money on a torque multiplier, good it worked for you too.
Me and my old man just done my mums, It's a time consuming job but not too difficult. Just so much stuff has got to come out lol. We did it on the drive with axle stands , took us about 10hours or so all in , I'm sure you're much quicker now with the ramp and your experience. Your videos helped us masively !
Great video. Nice to see a mechanic using a torque multiplier for the crank bolt.👍
The 1.0 EcoBoost engine itself is very good but it's the wet belt that is very sensitive unfortunately for the right oil (5W-20 948b spec) and change the oil and filter at maximum 15000km. Short driving don't help because fuel are getting in the oil and degrade the wet belt. If the car are driven short distances i recommend to change the oil and filter every 10000 km. Along with Ford also Peugeot and Vauxhall has the same problem with the wet belt when its not serviced properly in time and etc. I don't like the wet belt but if serviced properly it should last within the interval of the wet belt. I'm subscribing. Great video 👍
I have one with 60k miles that crank but doesn’t turn on I haven’t open it but I don’t know at this point if is the bottom belt no idea. Have you see that happened before?
@Harleymike_48 Probably sounds like oil starvation, it may be the belt for the oil pump that's gone bad or oil pick-up is clogged with debris from the wet belt but the engine must be open up for closer inspection.
Looks like the designers and engineers have a competition to see who can make things the most complicated!
Good Lad! Smashing videos!
I must admit i never watch any other videos fully on TH-cam.. But yours bud are nice and easy to watch with plenty of handy info!
Done my wife's 1.0 turbo ecoboost 3 weeks ago. 9 years old. 47k miles. All Ford parts!
Forgot to mention this Fiesta has always had the correct oil at proper intervals and I can't say this enough to people!
Why at so low mileage?
and what you want to say? All ford parts correct oil? You still have almost another 75k km to do it. Everything must looks like new.
Because recommended to change at 60k or 10 years. It's been 10 years now.
@@zynicelab because should be no longer than 10 years regardless of mileage
Excellent job I’m very impressed kind regards to you and take care Mark from Billericay 👍😀
What we're Ford thinking of when they dreamt this absolute pile of shite up!
The best Eco boost video i have watched. Those laser timing tools are good, but very expensive for the DIYer.
nice one baz great work!!! those eco boost 1 ltr engines are a nightmare-so many issues with them
why
@@MODemirel wet belt issues if you have never seen any of the forums -they all tell you !!
@@MX5MAN4 Does the 1.5 ltr engine have the same issues?
@@dm_2184no havent heard of any issues on the 1.5
@@MX5MAN4 okay cheers, heard about the issues with the 1 ltr ecoboost and decided to stay clear
My son has a very early 2012 fiesta 1.0 nearing 80k miles so was thinking about doing this but I don't have the timing tools or torque multiplier. Ford quoted £1700 which is silly money to spend on a car of that age, how much do you charge Baz?
Addition to post below, I’m sure it’s not the crank bearings, it’s like the oil runs back t the sump and it’s noisy till it gets oil pressure back, like a valve is stuck open.
Love the videos Blaz.
Interesting that that focus was a pre face lift car and must be around 10 years old. The oil pick up was clean and the old belts looked in good condition.
Thats what I was thinking... I guess you can't tell until you strip it down.
great video looks very much like the 1.2 turbo wet belt that vauxhall do terrible belt
Another great video Baz 👌
great video, I need my belt replacing, where are you based?
Would be great to get done by someone like yourself who knows these engines.
1.6 zetec all day long for me in this era of focus 🤙🏻
I could do with you doing this on my 2015 focus estate
Is there anyway to check the condition of the belt without having to take everything apart?
A lot of these engines are nigh on 10 years old now, most of the problems will be from people buying cars with more mistery than history. Skipped services, wrong oil used, general lack of maintenance.
Personally i think it is a good engine.
I bought an 18 plate C Max with this engine at 9k miles, it's now just shy of 30k.
Every 6 months regardless of mileage I drop the oil and filter.
No point in cheaping out, just use the fully synthetic Castrol 5-20 which comes in around £60 for 5 litres plus get a decent oil filter.
Next service I will drop the sump to check the belt and pick up i think.
This seems to not be a joke, the belt is disintegrating. I found textile in oil at 29.000 miles, third oil change. Always used the original recommended oil.
Do you take the oil pick up off to clean or just do it in place?
I wonder if they ever quietly upgraded the material of the belt
Great video, very informative. On the new ford focus where the turbo is on the rear of the engine, does that indicate a cam chain, and wet belt on the oil pump. Any advice would be most welcomed. Phone ford totally useless. I have 4 local garage giving conflicting information 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭
Hi my timing tool says barcode must face up and tool locks on flat edge on cam..it doesn lock on the lobes..pls help
How much do you personally charge for this ive heard its expensive?
Hi, great job, man. I am curious is there any practical way for the timing belt condition assessment and which is more important with correct servicing (oil grade/change) what is your recommendation (mileage/years) for the belt to be replaced?
Gates sell a belt sizing tool, it's a long rod you insert through the oil filter cap and it has 2 little tabs at the end the belt should sit comfortably between the tabs, if it has to be forced or doesn't fit at all it indicates the belt is breaking down and has swelled
looking online it seems available from many manufacturers now
nice ,well done sir
Do you have to replace the oil pump?
How much do u charge and where r you based pal
Where are you supporting the engine when you’ve got the sump and the timing cover off?
Driveshaft mount buddy
Question?, with the torque multiplier you have to turn it 5 times 90°, but do you turn it 5 times 90° on te torque multiplier or do you turn de cranckshaft bolt 5 times 90°
Bolt
Need to take your crank pulley alignment pin out dude . After the initial torque .
I’ve seen them snap the hole otherwise
And I leave The fuel pump . You don’t need to remove it to remove the cam cover . Slides right out no problem
I have one with 60k miles that crank but doesn’t turn on I haven’t open it but I don’t know at this point if is the bottom belt no idea. Have you see that happened before?
Excellent job 👍
Hi, I have a 1.0 Ecoboost and if you leave overnight and start the next morning it has a mechanical growl for 2 or 3 seconds until the oil light goes out, it’s if left for a couple of hours and runs fine, any ideas on the fault? Raymond.
Hi, my car is 62 plate focus with 100 HP. I checked with Ford for the correct size timing belt. They said I need to remove the belt to visually check and confirm the size if the belt. They can't tell if it is 18mm or 16mm for my car. Can I use 16 mm belt for the replacement if there is 18 mm belt already in it. Please suggest me.
Who was the guy doing the wet belt change,which garage and where Please?
I thought these were supposed to last 200K .
Hi there, I have a 2013 focus EcoBoost it’s done 61000 mit and it’s started playing up at around 40mph lacking power, I’m worried it might be the wet belt,??? Or does it have a chain and a Cambelt, need help please
Do you change just the belt baz, Is there anything else needs doing while you have it apart
Hi, nice job, Where’s your location? I would really like to send my car over there for a new wet belt, I was hoping to see the car model I drive in your garage, but I think the work is probably the same. mine is a 69 plate Ford focus , 34,168 miles, I might be able to drive 16k miles more, I hope
Hi. I would like to ask where are you based and how much do you charge for this job. I have s Fiesta from 2019 with 30000 miles on the clock. So I am thinking if I need to change it now or bit later. Thank.
That age and mileage - much later
Just ensure regular oil changes with the correct oil
Some are chain from 2019...if the belt cover (left side of engine if standing at front of car) is black plastic it's a belt.....if silver/metal it's a chain.
If a chain the big silver heat shield dead centre at the front of the engine will not be there either.
hey mate one question can I ask you if I can change engine 1.6 tdci mk2 2010 to 2.0 tdci is it possible? or 1.8 tdci with same DMF and clutch etc?
Just had ours done £1200...🤯 no water pump while all apart? ours was good inside belt hard like plastic but no bits 10 years max is the time to change..
What's the book time on the job if you don't mind me asking. Only asking I work for Vauxhall/Peugeot/citroe. We have the wet belts but don't need to remove all of this to replace them
They must be alot easier....my local (a friends garage) charge £400 for the Citroen.....£800-£900 for the Ford....the Ford is a full day if all goes well and if bolts don't break or are seized (exhaust and air con pump usually)
Would you recommend a car with this engine?
@bazmeredith. Great video, you know your stuff. I have a late Sept 2018 (68 plate)Focus Ecoboost 1.0 (125PS) ST-Line and until last night was unaware of the wet-belt problems leading to complete engine failure even around 50K miles. Mine is 53000 miles. Been reading up on many forums and Facebook groups, people with well maintained cars with full Ford service history experiencing failures incl brake failures. I have been extremely concerned and scared to drive it. I have seen a number of comments say the Mk4 Focus from 2018 changed to a timing chain. I commented on a post on Ford Owners Club forum asking for advice. A member seen my engine photo and said it was chain rather belt. Is there any way I can send you a photo, or link to one to see if you know if its chain or belt? On the Ford Owners forum I was told that the engine fitted in my car (07 JUNE 18) was one of the first of the new engines. A few days ago the One Show on BBC1 had a section on the Ford wet-belt problems customers have been facing. Ford USA doing a selected recall now on certain models
Los nuevos motores con cadena de distribución son distintos visualmente, llevan el colector de escape y el turbo detras del bloque. Los anteriores con correa húmeda llevan el turbo delante. De todas formas en los nuevos motores la bomba de aceite es movida por una correa húmeda. Los problemas surgen cuando se utiliza un aceite diferente al homologado por Ford para ecoboost. Incluso en los motores nuevos con cadena, debe utilizar el aceite recomendado por dos razones, por la correa de la bomba de aceite y por la lubricación de los cilindros al tener una arquitectura de construcción y pulido muy especifico. Cuida los mantenimientos, vigila los niveles con regularidad, cuida los tiempos del turbo y tendrás coche para mucho tiempo.
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If the turbo is at the front, its belt
The chain driven layout is completely different
Does the crank bolt need to be replaced? Just had my car done at an independent garage and they didn't replace the bolt.
it needs to be replaced. Every strech bolt needs replacement, because it lengthened after the install.
Go back to the garage and get that fixed. Its a bad job
Are the newer Ford Focus' having chains instead of belts?
I have been told that if the turbo is on the rear of the engine it has a cam chain and lower wet belt on the oil pump. But I have been trying to get this confirmed as my local garage says no, two wet belts. Called ford were we purchased the car, totally useless they said call a service agent
just a question, does the belt get covered on oil due to a problem or is designed that way? I haven’t replaced any other belt that was wet..
By design! Crummy idea.
It runs in the engine oil.
Hi Baz hows it going, can this be done without torque multiplier ? Ive got 1 to do this week
Yes it can I've done a few with a massive bar, but they have to be stupidly tight
How long should this take a mechanic to do???
@@TOMW872 a day
@@bazmeredith cheers pal
Nothing wrong the wet belt cam belt engine, sadly most people don’t change the oil regularly enough. 8000-10000 miles is fine if you use the car/van. Lots of short trips and lack of oil changes don’t help with wear to a cam belt.
Agree and this goes for all modern engines, wet belt or timing chain.
there are plenty of examples of engine failure, at low milage and with the correct maintenance. Ford changed the engine to a chain I believe in 2018.
@@joskd8491Many cars also had coolant problems causing new engines to be needed....I know Ford replaced quite alot free of charge.
@@markbro4427 if I'm not mistaking: that had something to do with a cooloant hose or plastic piece that started to leak while driving. As many people never check oillevel, or coolantlevel, the engines overheated causing the cilinderhead to bend like a banana or pistons scratching the cilinderwalls.
Repairing (this kind of repairs is actually impossible) was more expensive than replacing
@@joskd8491yeah....mate works from home and serviced a few. When they were giving coolant problems I remember him saying he gave the hose or pipe a twist to finish it of and told the owner to take it to Ford, in all cases they replaced the engine.
Cambelts in oil were such a good idea Ford went back to a timing chain on the 1.0 ecoboost in 2018. I like the new Focus but I'd never buy the wet belt version.
I believe Dayco invented the timing belt in oil system!
Be sure the small belt, driving the oilpump, is also a chain.
@@joskd8491 Oil pump its still a wet belt unfortuly. Hard to understant why they keep it, since you will need to remove the chain to replace the oil pump belt..
La cadena sólo la llevan los mhev
What a crok of shit idea, when i first came to the trade, early 90's the old boy who trained me, said any oil on a belt fix the leak and change the belt.
NO OIL ON ANY BELT. bad bad idea
Any idea what this would cost in U.S. dollars?
10 percent the cost of the car?
Manufacturers should pay for the expenses that their stupidity causes. Stupid should hurt. Engine could have had chains for just a little more money.
1:56 can’t see the leds on it
Won't be buying one of those. 😮
Just never buy ford with ecoboost ever. If you get one for free give it to someone else for free or even better scrap it.
The 18mm belt fits all of them innit.
I had to take my travl sickness pills while watching this.
Most useless video…not helping or teaching anyone…