I wish I had seen this before the past weekend. It would have saved me so much headaches. I needed to change my axle seals on my 87 YJ, and thought the seal was at the diff. If I had known that it was at the vac DC, I'd be a lot happier person at the moment. Doesn't help that I still need to get at the one on the driver side, but I'm glad I now know what's up with the passenger side! Thank you for this.
I forgot to add, aren't there two seals around the Shift Motor Housing? The original manual says to "add 5oz of GL 5 gear lube through the switch hole." If it was lubed with the main differential, why would we need to add additional oil? Just a bit confused here is all...And Thank You for taking the time and creating the video!
My 89 XJ Had a bearing just inboard of the CAD housing that the old axle would ride on. The new axle was a tad bigger than the bearing bore. I had to remove the bearing. Not something I had seen on any how-to videos. Just a heads up to others.
Great video, but I have a question? When you add the solid axle to the right side, then engage your 4 whl dr. and if you don’t have some kind of locker up front, you would have an open diff. the wheel with the least resistance will turn. So technically you still have a 3 wheel drive, if you have a trac lock in the rear?
that is true even if you leave it with the factory set up, just like all non locking front diff 4x4s. this modification just gets rid of the 2 piece right side axle wich has always been a week/trouble spot in early Jeeps, even Chrysler knew this and got rid of it by the mid '90s and went to a single piece axle on the right side.
@@johnewald9650 typically if you have a locker up front this is a mod you would do at the same time. It just gets rid of the vacuum issues. You just go to a solid axle.
4x4 is not always engaged since the T-case is not engaged but yes, the front axles will spin on both sides. The driver side does anyways with or without the solid axle. It will essentially be like every other solid axle Jeep without CAD.
Do you have a fix for the 4wd light or do you forego it? Can the button actuator be remounted like on the 4wd shift lever so its pressed when the lever is pulled?
I was wondering if someone had a part number for this? I didn’t see it listed in any of their comments but I may have missed it so if someone could help me out that would be awesome!
I did something similar. The shift fork is held with a clip on the shaft. You can remove the clip, slide the shift fork to one end and put the clip back to pin it to the other end. That then locks it. I think removing this assembly is better overall for tough 4wd driving since it is a fail point but for regular 4wd work its fine. The only drawback is you don't get that 4wd light coming on which the cable kit will do for you.
0:57 unreliable? LOL You put a cable in (that freezes up in snow/slush; I ran one for 3+ years) to ‘fix’ a VERY reliable oem axle disconnect. Nothing wrong with it. Just because it needs a new harness or vac motor after 25 years doesn’t mean it’s no good.
I wish I had seen this before the past weekend. It would have saved me so much headaches. I needed to change my axle seals on my 87 YJ, and thought the seal was at the diff. If I had known that it was at the vac DC, I'd be a lot happier person at the moment. Doesn't help that I still need to get at the one on the driver side, but I'm glad I now know what's up with the passenger side! Thank you for this.
Gr8 explanation. Very clear and thorough. Thx
I forgot to add, aren't there two seals around the Shift Motor Housing? The original manual says to "add 5oz of GL 5 gear lube through the switch hole." If it was lubed with the main differential, why would we need to add additional oil? Just a bit confused here is all...And Thank You for taking the time and creating the video!
I'm having the same exact problem my seal is a little bit too big to fit what exactly is the part number on the seal that you used thank you
can I weld the cover plate instead of bolting it??
Great video. Great explanation!
+JeepArmy USA Ya, I like the raw, uncut, unedited videos. The fumbling over the words, etc.. LOL
+ROCKRIDGE 4WD Not even man, your intimate knowledge of the inner workings are what your audience is focused on. Great job man, really. -Z
can I weld the cover plate instead??
My 89 XJ Had a bearing just inboard of the CAD housing that the old axle would ride on. The new axle was a tad bigger than the bearing bore. I had to remove the bearing. Not something I had seen on any how-to videos. Just a heads up to others.
How did you get the 4x4 light to work?
What hooks up on the Driver's side?
Great video, but I have a question? When you add the solid axle to the right side, then engage your 4 whl dr. and if you don’t have some kind of locker up front, you would have an open diff. the wheel with the least resistance will turn. So technically you still have a 3 wheel drive, if you have a trac lock in the rear?
that is true even if you leave it with the factory set up, just like all non locking front diff 4x4s. this modification just gets rid of the 2 piece right side axle wich has always been a week/trouble spot in early Jeeps, even Chrysler knew this and got rid of it by the mid '90s and went to a single piece axle on the right side.
So i do have a locker up front would this be horrible to do for me or is it that bad
@@johnewald9650 typically if you have a locker up front this is a mod you would do at the same time. It just gets rid of the vacuum issues. You just go to a solid axle.
This would be the same as the collar engaged... That being said does that mean 4x4 is always engaged?
Thanks for the Video
4x4 is not always engaged since the T-case is not engaged but yes, the front axles will spin on both sides. The driver side does anyways with or without the solid axle. It will essentially be like every other solid axle Jeep without CAD.
Do you have a fix for the 4wd light or do you forego it? Can the button actuator be remounted like on the 4wd shift lever so its pressed when the lever is pulled?
You can actually put a TJ 4wd indicator switch on the np231 of the YJ and wore it in to the old switch in the engine bay and it will work like factory
If you change the axle shaft what do you do with the vacuum lines at the transfer case?
Any help is appreciated in advance!
They simply get blocked off. Same thing when you install a 4x4 posi lock cable.
@@jeffharvey9437 Thank you sir! So I can remove the lines.
I was wondering if someone had a part number for this? I didn’t see it listed in any of their comments but I may have missed it so if someone could help me out that would be awesome!
Try YMS40576S. Just found out I got the weird one and I'm trying to verify... Let me know
Curious, wouldn't another option be to simply turn the shift fork around, and forget about it, to save money.
I did something similar. The shift fork is held with a clip on the shaft. You can remove the clip, slide the shift fork to one end and put the clip back to pin it to the other end. That then locks it. I think removing this assembly is better overall for tough 4wd driving since it is a fail point but for regular 4wd work its fine. The only drawback is you don't get that 4wd light coming on which the cable kit will do for you.
Part number for seal?
The sesl for the passenger side tube is CR11800
What's the part number for the smaller seal
Did you find it? I came up with YMS40576S
So would it be full time 4wd after this?
I believe your seals are in backwards.
4:10 well he doesn’t understand that he’s selling parts and labor to solve a non-problem, soooo… he’s not that interested in…stuff.
0:57 unreliable? LOL
You put a cable in (that freezes up in snow/slush; I ran one for 3+ years) to ‘fix’ a VERY reliable oem axle disconnect. Nothing wrong with it. Just because it needs a new harness or vac motor after 25 years doesn’t mean it’s no good.
Do what you want. The best option is a 1 piece axle.