I've seen a kit available to do this on sale for about $60. It looks like you have maybe $5 invested in the nuts and bolt. Thanks for saving me some cash and providing a permanent fix for this issue.
Thanks for this video! This is a great mod, and you helped save my ass...I’m in Wisconsin and we just got 25” of snow and the 4 wheel drive actuator failed on my plow truck...Thank you so much!
This is more of a temporary patch fix, or for someone who really doesn't care about all the powertrain wear and tear. This "patch hack" is for the guys where their truck is going to be in the scrap yard in a few years, or days. Nobody want's to ever spend the money and take the time to fix anything the correct way. Fact is, these CAD vacuum systems are actually very reliable, despite what people say/think. These Gen II Dodge Ram pickup trucks are all OLD as hell now, 18 - 25 years old, on average!!! Most are worn out and rotted out. Parts wear out. There are really only a couple of common issues that often make these systems fail: 1.) The vacuum actuators wear out, and they "pull" gear oil from the front axle into them and they eventually plug up the vacuum diaphragm and all of the vacuum lines with oil. Easy fix... Replace actuator, and blow lines out with compressed air. Chase with parts cleaner and blow out again to remove most all of the oil. A tiny bit of oil in the lines won't hurt a thing, in fact, it's actually good for lubrication and anti-rust/corrosion purposes. 2.) Another thing that typically happens due to age and the elements is the steel vacuum lines that run along the frame that go between the front axle flexible hoses/plastic lines and the transfer case flexible hoses/plastic lines can/will rust and even rot through. When this occurs, they either plug the vacuum lines internally, or they pinhole leak and won't hold a vacuum. Easy fix... Just replace the lines! They are relatively easy to replace, and you can even buy "pre-bent" ones that follow the exact factory routing off eBay for reasonable $$. There is even a stainless-steel line option, which I've personally purchased & installed, and they work awesome! I've even seen guys just use 3/16" brake line, and that works too, but isn't as nice or long-lasting of a repair, in my opinion. I like fixing things correctly, and ONCE, whenever possible.
@@fiddle24v : Dodge Rams after 2001, actually - NOT 2002. The 2002 model year trucks were the first CAD deleted trucks from the factory. And, what's your point? I'm 100% aware that the last of the Gen 2's and all of the Gen 3 trucks didn't have front axle CAD's. However, after Daimler sold off their truck interest to Fiat, RAM actually brought CAD's back in the later generations, but used an electrical-shifting CAD actuator (like Chevy) instead of a vacuum-shifting one. Needlessly spinning the front diff and front drive shaft back into the transfer case not only wears them all out quicker, but contributes to shittier gas mileage. That's the whole reason for having a CAD on an axle, without old-school type hub lock-outs, in the first place.
Hey man thanks for the informational video you got a like. My actuator was actually still working I disconnected gray vacuum from intake and plugged it, and plug black vacuum line from transfer case. Then ran bypass vacuum hose from intake vacuum to black actuator line. four-wheel drive is engaged and light is working in the dash temporary fix.. believe my issue is vacuum switch or interchange switch on transfer case. Have to do some more research on replacing that. Just wanted to say thumbs up and thanks for the video information was very helpful for emergency quick fix to get it up and running.
There is a cable setup currently made to do the same thing. The cable is a much better setup than this mod. Think of the additional wear on the front diff and driveshaft. This would be wonderful for an offroad vehicle but isn't a good idea for a daily driver.
Just installed the cable system on my 98 dodge 3500... Another advantage of the cable is low range 2 wheel drive without the binding in tight turns that you get in 4 wheel drive... As well as less wear and tear on... What led up to the cable system was 4by not engaging... Oil and vacuum are not friends... Well vacuum wasn't the issue... Axle alignment was... Needle bearings on the short axle side were going going gone... Ever order parts from the other side of the blizzards path... Not a very speedy process...
@@bradleyrussell8180 First installed I had the same issue... Then changed both inner axle bearings... Problem solved... It was traveling far enough... But the shafts were not lining up... All it takes is a bad seal to let the inner bearings go dry....
@@backwoodssawyer1 it lines up, cause I can easily slide the collar all the way engaged with my finger. I did a mod similar to this video but I'm not digging the new vibrations on my feet at 80mph
Easier way.. disconnect plug vacuum lines. Drill 2 small holes in vacuum canister. Push fork to engaged position with an ice pick. Fill vacuum canister with expanding foam, let it set up. Done in 20 minutes. Did mine 6 years ago, no problems…
Good job on the install but I must say I don't know if it's the best idea to have your front differential and front drive shaft always spinning that's more wear and tear on the U-joints in the front drive shaft and also the front differential and also I'm sure it puts more wear and tear on the transfer case because the front drive shaft always spinning gears inside of the transfer case even though the transfer case isn't engaged I have a 96 4 X4 the previous owner unhooked the vacuum system and bought a cable system so you can manually lock and unlock the front axles so it's totally reliable it's also easy to use and it does not make it to where your front drive shaft is always engaged
Yeah, you're definitely not wrong. This is more of a temporary patch fix, or for someone who really doesn't care about all the powertrain wear and tear. This "patch hack" is for the guys where their truck is going to be in the scrap yard in a few years, or days. Nobody want's to ever spend the money and take the time to fix anything the correct way. Fact is, these CAD vacuum systems are actually very reliable, despite what people say/think. These Gen II Dodge Ram pickup trucks are all OLD as hell now, 18 - 25 years old, on average!!! Most are worn out and rotted out. Parts wear out. There are really only a couple of common issues that often make these systems fail: 1.) The vacuum actuators wear out, and they "pull" gear oil from the front axle into them and they eventually plug up the vacuum diaphragm and all of the vacuum lines with oil. Easy fix... Replace actuator, and blow lines out with compressed air. Chase with parts cleaner and blow out again to remove most all of the oil. A tiny bit of oil in the lines won't hurt a thing, in fact, it's actually good for lubrication and anti-rust/corrosion purposes. 2.) Another thing that typically happens due to age and the elements is the steel vacuum lines that run along the frame that go between the front axle flexible hoses/plastic lines and the transfer case flexible hoses/plastic lines can/will rust and even rot through. When this occurs, they either plug the vacuum lines internally, or they pinhole leak and won't hold a vacuum. Easy fix... Just replace the lines! They are relatively easy to replace, and you can even buy "pre-bent" ones that follow the exact factory routing off eBay for reasonable $$. There is even a stainless-steel line option, which I've personally purchased & installed, and they work awesome! I've even seen guys just use 3/16" brake line, and that works too, but isn't as nice or long-lasting of a repair, in my opinion. I like fixing things correctly, and ONCE, whenever possible.
although this way works ok,,an even easier and much cleaner way is to simply take out the circlips on either side,slide the fork over to the actuated side and reinstall a circlip on the opposite side,clean and stock appearing,and the fork is still sitting a proper smooth shaft.not a threaded bolt,just a cleaner better way to go,
I can see doing this if you are in a pinch and need 4wd but other wise why would want your front driveshaft spinning and your transfer case shaft spinning. Lots of wear and tear and fuel consumption. I wish my dodge had manual lockouts so that my axle joints wouldn't be spinning and wearing out and eating fuel. These axles are a terrible design and this makes it worse unless in a pinch for 4wd. My cummins has 440,000 miles and my first vacuum pod just went bad. 23$ on ebay for a new one delivered to my rural home, easy peasy!
good mod. however especially if it's a daily driver this mod will have the front drive shaft turning at all times which will increase the wear on all connected rotating parts. i recommend a free wheeling hub kit that is a aftermarket setup. the cost of the kit isn't to bad but will save in the end on premature parts wear. also save on a little fuel mileage.
@@allenweber2686 : Or, you could just fix it the right way and be done with it. Aftermarket parts are NOT that expensive, and this vacuum system is actually quite reliable, despite what people think. These trucks are just OLD as hell and have normal rust, rot, wear and tear issues. I've fixed tons of them. It's almost always just the vacuum lines are plugged or rotted out, or the vacuum actuator is bad. Simple and inexpensive fixes.
@@mcss327 : Remove the CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) housing assy. Push actuator to the "engaged" position. Put wide hose clamp around actuator shaft to "fill" gap between housing and shift fork, to prevent it from moving back to the "disengaged" position. (The same can be achieved with zip-ties instead of a hose clamp) Slide splined axle locking collar to "engaged" position and re-install CAD housing. Done. The 4x4 light in the dash will stay on all the time, as it is activated by the actuator's piston rod. All that said, this should just be done as a temporary fix. Parts are cheap. Figure out what's wrong and replace what's broke. Its usually the vacuum actuator or bad/rotted/plugged vacuum lines. Once in a great while it's the vacuum switch up on the transfer case, although that is much more rare.
@@RobKingRC : It's an ok solution. Not the best, by any means. I own 5 of these trucks. All work fine with the stock design. I personally installed all stainless steel vacuum lines along the frame rails & new CAD actuators on all of them. No more issues since. It's also important to not over-fill the front axle with gear lube & also make sure the axle breather is not plugged. If the excess gear lube gets into the vacuum bellows of the CAD's vacuum actuator, it will stop working properly.
If I understand the concept correctly driverside axleshaft is still connected to the diferrential carrier spinning spider gears? Even with everything working correctly from factory?
@Chris Getz : Nope. It will only bind when the transfer case is in 4 high or 4 low. (4wd option chosen by the driver with the 4x4 selector shift lever.) Just like "normal". However, the drivetrain from the front wheels to inside the transfer case will turn all of the time. This is not terrible, but it puts a lot of extra unnecessary wear and tear on bearings, seals, gears, u-joints, etc... It also creates more drag, although that is the least of your worries in any HD pickup, in my opinion. I'd only do a hack fix like this in an "emergency" type situation. I'd recommend fixing it the right way. It's not that difficult, and it's not that expensive to just fix it the correct way.
@@turbodiesel4709 exactly! Its literally 2 vacuum lines and an actautor not much can go wrong...start changing the design of things and that can cost you big time in the future
@@daddylonglegz5839 Well, in fact many guys had done that before till today, and as long as everything is well lubricated, there is no worry. Even after years it's seem to be reliable (4x4 forums).
WAY TOO MUCH WORK GUYS! Just pull the unit off, remove the c-clip that holds the fork in place, slide the fork over to lock mode, and replace the c-clip on the other side of the fork. Done. And it remains in 4x4 engaged. No need to remove the vacuum parts and put nuts and bolts and silicone. Just remove a c-clip, slide the fork, replace the c-clip. Don't need any parts other than what is already in there.
That a neat mod I havn't seen that done yet a lot of people use the manual cable setup also but this seem like a less pita and like he said they changed it anyways after 2002 and in the 3rd gen probably cause dodge finally figure out this was unreliable setup.
@ rrcoster : Ram's went back to the front CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) in the Gen IV trucks and newer. 2002 Gen II's were the only one without the CAD, and all of the Gen III's (as I recall). Daimler owned Chrysler during the Gen III years. That's why they got away from it during that time. Fiat/Ram went back to it. The CAD system is fine. You just have to maintain it, like everything in life. The Gen II trucks are OLD as shit. You have to expect some issues due to wear and tear, and rust and rot. Furthermore, they are easy to fix. Aftermarket parts are not that expensive. They are easily good for another 10+ years if you actually fix the problem the right way the first time, instead of do these "temporary hack-job" fixes.
Nice little mod, and its reversible if he ever changes his mind :-D. I was thinking nasty on keeping the ring to the left, clamp a jubilee clip on the gear to the right. I have a nasty mind LOL.
Really...no one will notice ANY fuel mileage difference with the front d/s always spinning and secondly that collar is the weak link...why not just put a new one piece axle shaft in the differential
@ Bridgette O'Leary : Ah, so you are talking about taking the CAD shift unit off of the axle and putting the zip tie(s) around the actuator shaft in the engaged position (fully extended) and then re-install the CAD assy back on the axle after also sliding the splined axleshaft collar into the "locked" position. For a temporary fix, I LIKE IT!!! That's a WAY better, quicker, and easier idea than what they are doing in this video. An even easier hack fix for in an emergency situation would be to disconnect the vacuum lines and smash in the end of the steel diaphragm with a hammer. No, I don't personally recommend doing that, but it definitely will do the job in a pinch, say, when you are out plowing snow in the middle of the night, and the damned thing quits working on you. I've seen it happen to other guys, but I've never personally experienced that problem. Probably because I take care of (preventative maintenance) my trucks. Personally, instead of doing this kind of bullshit, I'd just fix it the right way, as it's really not rocket science to figure the system out, and it doesn't cost very much for the parts, in general.
@ eric wesche : Located on the front axle, the threaded-in, two-wire, electrical weather-pack connector style plug, "push-button" style switch for the 4x4 indicator lamp in the dash is located on the left end/side of the 4-bolt aluminum CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) housing. Switch plug is facing the left, driver's side of the truck. The switch seals to the housing with an o-ring. The switch is directly across from the vacuum actuator, which is located on the right of the CAD housing. The actuator seals with an internal o-ring, and is retained from inside the housing, by an "E-clip". When you pull back the transfer case lever to engage the 4x4, the "button" on the switch is pushed in to turn on the light in the dash. The switch button is pushed in by the end of the vacuum actuator rod, internal to the CAD assembly. The switch is threaded into the aluminum CAD housing directly across from the vacuum actuator. If you don't have a properly functioning center axle disconnect (or vacuum actuator, for that matter), your 4x4 light in the dash will not work correctly.
@ Ted Webster. It may. I believe that the center axle shaft just "floats" in-between the differential pin and the RH outer axle shaft. Nothing to worry about.
@ 2Wheel 1Cyl : UGH!!! You broke 3 bolts off because you are inexperienced... A little heat with a torch to the housing near the bolts and they likely would have come right out. Furthermore, anytime you have stuff like this apart, be sure to put it back together with NEW bolts and lock washers, along with anti-seize on the threads!
@@idontknowanythingaboutcars896 The example of 1970s Lincoln (and by extension, all vacuum operated FoMoCo hidden headlight covers of the time) is not the best one. They were designed to fail open in order to keep the driver safe in case of a loss of vacuum signal, but were otherwise closed simply for aesthetic. When the systems leaked they would creep open after a loss of vacuum signal (engine off) but if there were any decent hoses at all they would stay closed when the car was running down the road. You want an example of a bad vacuum system? Take a look at the windshield wipers on 1940s Fords, 1950s Chevrolets and the like. If you go to pass someone in a hard downpour when you stomp the throttle you lose vacuum signal and the wipers stop working. Then after you hit something because you cannot see, if the engine returns to idle and regains vacuum signal - you can see the tree, other car, pedestrian, et cetera that you collided with. Brilliant!
@Consolidated : Yup, and the CAD systems work 99% of the time. Only noticeable issues are on these Gen II trucks that are now 18 -25 years old and are all worn-out and/or rotted. Even then, they are not that difficult to diagnose and fix if a failure occurs. Aftermarket parts are relatively inexpensive as well. Problem is, most people in general are just too stupid and/or lazy to fix problems the correct way.
Yep...probably be repalcing the front driveshaft u joints too. The guy seems like he knows what hes doing but i wouldnt do it like that...to each his own
@@daddylonglegz5839 My thoughts exactly. There’s just no way. My 4x4 vacuum system was shot, and I took the time to repair it. I don’t understand why people take shortcuts.
@ Jared Prince : Because you need the collar to engage both the center and the RH axleshafts in order to be able to use the 4-wheel drive. DUH. It's not over engineered at all. Apparently you are just to stupid to understand how it works, and repair it, if need be. Also, why in the hell would you want it to stay in 2wd? It's already doing that, when "broken".
I just did this exact same thing on a 1985 dodge w250 4x4!! Awesome video and spent 3$ to fix this problem I've had for 18 years!!! Thanks Zach!
Hey man can I ask you something
I've seen a kit available to do this on sale for about $60. It looks like you have maybe $5 invested in the nuts and bolt. Thanks for saving me some cash and providing a permanent fix for this issue.
You can do it without spending anything or pulling the cad shaft out, pull the eclip out slide it over and reinstall it. 🙄
@@BobSmith-mg6iz Yeah, I figured that out not long after posting. It's still working today.
Y'all's video really helped thanks now I can get through till my new part comes in spent last few days trying to figure it out so thanks again
In the 1980's Some one made a cable to replace the front wheel drive air lock, nu-locker, like a differential lock, un-locker
Thanks for this video! This is a great mod, and you helped save my ass...I’m in Wisconsin and we just got 25” of snow and the 4 wheel drive actuator failed on my plow truck...Thank you so much!
This is more of a temporary patch fix, or for someone who really doesn't care about all the powertrain wear and tear.
This "patch hack" is for the guys where their truck is going to be in the scrap yard in a few years, or days. Nobody want's to ever spend the money and take the time to fix anything the correct way.
Fact is, these CAD vacuum systems are actually very reliable, despite what people say/think. These Gen II Dodge Ram pickup trucks are all OLD as hell now, 18 - 25 years old, on average!!! Most are worn out and rotted out. Parts wear out.
There are really only a couple of common issues that often make these systems fail:
1.) The vacuum actuators wear out, and they "pull" gear oil from the front axle into them and they eventually plug up the vacuum diaphragm and all of the vacuum lines with oil. Easy fix... Replace actuator, and blow lines out with compressed air. Chase with parts cleaner and blow out again to remove most all of the oil. A tiny bit of oil in the lines won't hurt a thing, in fact, it's actually good for lubrication and anti-rust/corrosion purposes.
2.) Another thing that typically happens due to age and the elements is the steel vacuum lines that run along the frame that go between the front axle flexible hoses/plastic lines and the transfer case flexible hoses/plastic lines can/will rust and even rot through.
When this occurs, they either plug the vacuum lines internally, or they pinhole leak and won't hold a vacuum.
Easy fix... Just replace the lines! They are relatively easy to replace, and you can even buy "pre-bent" ones that follow the exact factory routing off eBay for reasonable $$. There is even a stainless-steel line option, which I've personally purchased & installed, and they work awesome!
I've even seen guys just use 3/16" brake line, and that works too, but isn't as nice or long-lasting of a repair, in my opinion. I like fixing things correctly, and ONCE, whenever possible.
Exactly!!! Copper brake line will work well
Does it make you lose sleep ?
Sounds like your vewy vewy upset
Yeah except all the rams after 2002 don’t have a cad and work perfectly fine even Jeep wranglers spin the front driveshaft
@@fiddle24v : Dodge Rams after 2001, actually - NOT 2002. The 2002 model year trucks were the first CAD deleted trucks from the factory. And, what's your point? I'm 100% aware that the last of the Gen 2's and all of the Gen 3 trucks didn't have front axle CAD's.
However, after Daimler sold off their truck interest to Fiat, RAM actually brought CAD's back in the later generations, but used an electrical-shifting CAD actuator (like Chevy) instead of a vacuum-shifting one.
Needlessly spinning the front diff and front drive shaft back into the transfer case not only wears them all out quicker, but contributes to shittier gas mileage.
That's the whole reason for having a CAD on an axle, without old-school type hub lock-outs, in the first place.
Hey man thanks for the informational video you got a like. My actuator was actually still working I disconnected gray vacuum from intake and plugged it, and plug black vacuum line from transfer case. Then ran bypass vacuum hose from intake vacuum to black actuator line. four-wheel drive is engaged and light is working in the dash temporary fix.. believe my issue is vacuum switch or interchange switch on transfer case. Have to do some more research on replacing that. Just wanted to say thumbs up and thanks for the video information was very helpful for emergency quick fix to get it up and running.
Used this method on my 1989 ram w100, and worked perfect. $3.00 in hardware saved me a couple 100. Thanks guys
I eliminated the vacuum lines and went with the cable style posi lock. Spend a little more money but it's the best solution.
Until it won't stay engaged
@@bradleyrussell8180 I haven't had any issues.
There is a cable setup currently made to do the same thing. The cable is a much better setup than this mod. Think of the additional wear on the front diff and driveshaft. This would be wonderful for an offroad vehicle but isn't a good idea for a daily driver.
Just installed the cable system on my 98 dodge 3500... Another advantage of the cable is low range 2 wheel drive without the binding in tight turns that you get in 4 wheel drive...
As well as less wear and tear on...
What led up to the cable system was 4by not engaging... Oil and vacuum are not friends... Well vacuum wasn't the issue... Axle alignment was... Needle bearings on the short axle side were going going gone... Ever order parts from the other side of the blizzards path... Not a very speedy process...
@@backwoodssawyer1 bought a truck with that mod and got stranded cause it doesn't move the collar far enough.
@@bradleyrussell8180
First installed I had the same issue... Then changed both inner axle bearings... Problem solved... It was traveling far enough... But the shafts were not lining up...
All it takes is a bad seal to let the inner bearings go dry....
@@backwoodssawyer1 it lines up, cause I can easily slide the collar all the way engaged with my finger. I did a mod similar to this video but I'm not digging the new vibrations on my feet at 80mph
Thanks. My gasket is leaking and your video was helpful. Seem like a quick fix to replace that gasket
just did this and worked great. thanks guys
So the 4x4 is on nomatter what
now add some RamMan locking Hubs and your set for Daily driving and off-road...
Dynatrac is much better.
If were to put manual locking hubs along with this, would the driveline not spin until I turned the hubs to lock?
Easier way.. disconnect plug vacuum lines. Drill 2 small holes in vacuum canister. Push fork to engaged position with an ice pick. Fill vacuum canister with expanding foam, let it set up. Done in 20 minutes. Did mine 6 years ago, no problems…
OMG... I wouldn't say that's an easier way. But definitely a hack way.
Thanks I'll remember that in an emergency, great tip.
@ 1:20 Those are absolutely NOT 11mm bolts. They are (US standard) USS 1/4"-20 cap screws with the standard 7/16" hex head (wrench size). *facepalm*
I did it first time ever. I'm in 4wheel drive. Thanks allot man. I'm in ohio just in time for winter!
Hey man could you maybe give me some pointers ??
Good job on the install but I must say I don't know if it's the best idea to have your front differential and front drive shaft always spinning that's more wear and tear on the U-joints in the front drive shaft and also the front differential and also I'm sure it puts more wear and tear on the transfer case because the front drive shaft always spinning gears inside of the transfer case even though the transfer case isn't engaged I have a 96 4 X4 the previous owner unhooked the vacuum system and bought a cable system so you can manually lock and unlock the front axles so it's totally reliable it's also easy to use and it does not make it to where your front drive shaft is always engaged
Yeah, you're definitely not wrong. This is more of a temporary patch fix, or for someone who really doesn't care about all the powertrain wear and tear.
This "patch hack" is for the guys where their truck is going to be in the scrap yard in a few years, or days. Nobody want's to ever spend the money and take the time to fix anything the correct way.
Fact is, these CAD vacuum systems are actually very reliable, despite what people say/think. These Gen II Dodge Ram pickup trucks are all OLD as hell now, 18 - 25 years old, on average!!! Most are worn out and rotted out. Parts wear out.
There are really only a couple of common issues that often make these systems fail:
1.) The vacuum actuators wear out, and they "pull" gear oil from the front axle into them and they eventually plug up the vacuum diaphragm and all of the vacuum lines with oil. Easy fix... Replace actuator, and blow lines out with compressed air. Chase with parts cleaner and blow out again to remove most all of the oil. A tiny bit of oil in the lines won't hurt a thing, in fact, it's actually good for lubrication and anti-rust/corrosion purposes.
2.) Another thing that typically happens due to age and the elements is the steel vacuum lines that run along the frame that go between the front axle flexible hoses/plastic lines and the transfer case flexible hoses/plastic lines can/will rust and even rot through.
When this occurs, they either plug the vacuum lines internally, or they pinhole leak and won't hold a vacuum.
Easy fix... Just replace the lines! They are relatively easy to replace, and you can even buy "pre-bent" ones that follow the exact factory routing off eBay for reasonable $$. There is even a stainless-steel line option, which I've personally purchased & installed, and they work awesome!
I've even seen guys just use 3/16" brake line, and that works too, but isn't as nice or long-lasting of a repair, in my opinion. I like fixing things correctly, and ONCE, whenever possible.
If you have a vacuum leak will it keep ot from going into 4x4 ?
can you shift from 2wd while you are moving or do you have to be stoped
Wont moving the fork over a re cliping it do the same ?
How long is the bolt?
Hey guys having the same trouble and going to do this but curious on how long the bolt is?
although this way works ok,,an even easier and much cleaner way is to simply take out the circlips on either side,slide the fork over to the actuated side and reinstall a circlip on the opposite side,clean and stock appearing,and the fork is still sitting a proper smooth shaft.not a threaded bolt,just a cleaner better way to go,
Saved me a lot a money, man thanks for this, :)
I did this and my truck still wont go into 4x4 only rear axle spins?
I kust took the fork completely off slid the collar over the put a hose clamp around the iner axle behind the collar tonhold it in place
Thanks for the video guys. I'm not wondering if this will work on a 1985 dodge ramcharger. Very similar setup, but on the driver side
Yes, it will.
These shop vids are cool
We will have many more, thanks for watching!
Good tip, what long arms are on this truck,
I can see doing this if you are in a pinch and need 4wd but other wise why would want your front driveshaft spinning and your transfer case shaft spinning. Lots of wear and tear and fuel consumption. I wish my dodge had manual lockouts so that my axle joints wouldn't be spinning and wearing out and eating fuel. These axles are a terrible design and this makes it worse unless in a pinch for 4wd. My cummins has 440,000 miles and my first vacuum pod just went bad. 23$ on ebay for a new one delivered to my rural home, easy peasy!
great for the mud shit steering over 20 I went back to vacum.
hey I have an old 86 uses the same system plus Manuel locking hubs. If I lock the front axle and leave the hubs unlocked will I have any issues.
No.
Nice little mod , well done !
Thanks Buddy!
good mod. however especially if it's a daily driver this mod will have the front drive shaft turning at all times which will increase the wear on all connected rotating parts. i recommend a free wheeling hub kit that is a aftermarket setup. the cost of the kit isn't to bad but will save in the end on premature parts wear. also save on a little fuel mileage.
@@allenweber2686 : Or, you could just fix it the right way and be done with it. Aftermarket parts are NOT that expensive, and this vacuum system is actually quite reliable, despite what people think. These trucks are just OLD as hell and have normal rust, rot, wear and tear issues. I've fixed tons of them. It's almost always just the vacuum lines are plugged or rotted out, or the vacuum actuator is bad. Simple and inexpensive fixes.
Could have just used a hose clamp one the actuator instead of pulling it out and putting a bolt on it thats what i did
@kevin where about do did you place the hose clamp?
Ya that worked better than all that
@@mcss327 : Remove the CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) housing assy. Push actuator to the "engaged" position. Put wide hose clamp around actuator shaft to "fill" gap between housing and shift fork, to prevent it from moving back to the "disengaged" position.
(The same can be achieved with zip-ties instead of a hose clamp)
Slide splined axle locking collar to "engaged" position and re-install CAD housing. Done.
The 4x4 light in the dash will stay on all the time, as it is activated by the actuator's piston rod.
All that said, this should just be done as a temporary fix. Parts are cheap. Figure out what's wrong and replace what's broke. Its usually the vacuum actuator or bad/rotted/plugged vacuum lines. Once in a great while it's the vacuum switch up on the transfer case, although that is much more rare.
@@turbodiesel4709 I eliminated the vacuum lines and went with the cable style posi lock. Spend a little more money but it's the best solution.
@@RobKingRC : It's an ok solution. Not the best, by any means. I own 5 of these trucks. All work fine with the stock design. I personally installed all stainless steel vacuum lines along the frame rails & new CAD actuators on all of them. No more issues since. It's also important to not over-fill the front axle with gear lube & also make sure the axle breather is not plugged.
If the excess gear lube gets into the vacuum bellows of the CAD's vacuum actuator, it will stop working properly.
If I understand the concept correctly driverside axleshaft is still connected to the diferrential carrier spinning spider gears? Even with everything working correctly from factory?
Yes. But it isn't engaged at the transfercase. People go to free spinning kits when they want thier rigs to last longer than the stock setup.
You can just slide the fork over and out the c-clip back in...
One question. Does the front end still bind on turns when dry?
@Chris Getz : Nope. It will only bind when the transfer case is in 4 high or 4 low. (4wd option chosen by the driver with the 4x4 selector shift lever.) Just like "normal".
However, the drivetrain from the front wheels to inside the transfer case will turn all of the time. This is not terrible, but it puts a lot of extra unnecessary wear and tear on bearings, seals, gears, u-joints, etc... It also creates more drag, although that is the least of your worries in any HD pickup, in my opinion.
I'd only do a hack fix like this in an "emergency" type situation. I'd recommend fixing it the right way. It's not that difficult, and it's not that expensive to just fix it the correct way.
@@turbodiesel4709 exactly! Its literally 2 vacuum lines and an actautor not much can go wrong...start changing the design of things and that can cost you big time in the future
@@daddylonglegz5839 Well, in fact many guys had done that before till today, and as long as everything is well lubricated, there is no worry. Even after years it's seem to be reliable (4x4 forums).
WAY TOO MUCH WORK GUYS! Just pull the unit off, remove the c-clip that holds the fork in place, slide the fork over to lock mode, and replace the c-clip on the other side of the fork. Done. And it remains in 4x4 engaged. No need to remove the vacuum parts and put nuts and bolts and silicone. Just remove a c-clip, slide the fork, replace the c-clip. Don't need any parts other than what is already in there.
did this today and it worked perfect . thnks for the comment
Same thing on a 89 Dakota, can confirm
What about the switch? Can I cut that part of the harness out?
That a neat mod I havn't seen that done yet a lot of people use the manual cable setup also but this seem like a less pita and like he said they changed it anyways after 2002 and in the 3rd gen probably cause dodge finally figure out this was unreliable setup.
Thanks for watching!
@ rrcoster : Ram's went back to the front CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) in the Gen IV trucks and newer. 2002 Gen II's were the only one without the CAD, and all of the Gen III's (as I recall).
Daimler owned Chrysler during the Gen III years. That's why they got away from it during that time.
Fiat/Ram went back to it. The CAD system is fine. You just have to maintain it, like everything in life.
The Gen II trucks are OLD as shit. You have to expect some issues due to wear and tear, and rust and rot. Furthermore, they are easy to fix. Aftermarket parts are not that expensive. They are easily good for another 10+ years if you actually fix the problem the right way the first time, instead of do these "temporary hack-job" fixes.
Nice little mod, and its reversible if he ever changes his mind :-D.
I was thinking nasty on keeping the ring to the left, clamp a jubilee clip on the gear to the right.
I have a nasty mind LOL.
Yep, he can convert back to the original configuration in the future, I can "see" the jubilee clip working too.
Really...no one will notice ANY fuel mileage difference with the front d/s always spinning and secondly that collar is the weak link...why not just put a new one piece axle shaft in the differential
Exactly. You can buy a one piece axle shaft and that’s the only real way to fix this
Another way too do it is to push it over to four wheel drive and use two big zip ties and you don't have to take it all apart.
Put a zip tie where?
Where do you zip tie??????
@@wiredwrong You put the zip tie around the shaft from the plunger so the vacuum can't retract the shaft and fork.
@ Bridgette O'Leary : Ah, so you are talking about taking the CAD shift unit off of the axle and putting the zip tie(s) around the actuator shaft in the engaged position (fully extended) and then re-install the CAD assy back on the axle after also sliding the splined axleshaft collar into the "locked" position. For a temporary fix, I LIKE IT!!! That's a WAY better, quicker, and easier idea than what they are doing in this video.
An even easier hack fix for in an emergency situation would be to disconnect the vacuum lines and smash in the end of the steel diaphragm with a hammer. No, I don't personally recommend doing that, but it definitely will do the job in a pinch, say, when you are out plowing snow in the middle of the night, and the damned thing quits working on you. I've seen it happen to other guys, but I've never personally experienced that problem. Probably because I take care of (preventative maintenance) my trucks.
Personally, instead of doing this kind of bullshit, I'd just fix it the right way, as it's really not rocket science to figure the system out, and it doesn't cost very much for the parts, in general.
disculpa la pregunta la adatacion q se le hizo ahi no tiene consecuencias gracias buen video
So is your 4x4 not engaged ?? Or would you have to engage it from the 4x4 shift knob inside the cab???
4x4 will not be engaged until you shift the transfer case from 2x to 4hi or 4lo.
That diff fluid tho...
That's an great fix since I have locking hubs now. Just curious about the 4x4 light. What controllers it?
@ eric wesche : Located on the front axle, the threaded-in, two-wire, electrical weather-pack connector style plug, "push-button" style switch for the 4x4 indicator lamp in the dash is located on the left end/side of the 4-bolt aluminum CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) housing.
Switch plug is facing the left, driver's side of the truck. The switch seals to the housing with an o-ring. The switch is directly across from the vacuum actuator, which is located on the right of the CAD housing. The actuator seals with an internal o-ring, and is retained from inside the housing, by an "E-clip".
When you pull back the transfer case lever to engage the 4x4, the "button" on the switch is pushed in to turn on the light in the dash. The switch button is pushed in by the end of the vacuum actuator rod, internal to the CAD assembly. The switch is threaded into the aluminum CAD housing directly across from the vacuum actuator.
If you don't have a properly functioning center axle disconnect (or vacuum actuator, for that matter), your 4x4 light in the dash will not work correctly.
I just moved the fork on the other side of the actuator c clip on the outside and disconnected the vacuum lines.
Has it held up?
Ya cause that’s what I just did
I just did this. Seems to be in four-wheel drive but why are my back tires still spinning a little bit?
YOU SIR SHOULD NEVER TOUCH A VEHICLE LOL
Should center shaft be rubbing pin in spider gears
@ Ted Webster. It may. I believe that the center axle shaft just "floats" in-between the differential pin and the RH outer axle shaft. Nothing to worry about.
So doing this it wont have a 4x4 light come on?
No
the 2002 1500 sport still has the same set-up
Does it have transfer case
Kinda a waste of time when all you need to do is take a hammer and pound on the vacuum pancake till its caved in
Did it work for you😂
Did this to mine.. 3 bolt heads broke OFF it was so bad. Had to pbblast ..
@ 2Wheel 1Cyl : UGH!!! You broke 3 bolts off because you are inexperienced... A little heat with a torch to the housing near the bolts and they likely would have come right out. Furthermore, anytime you have stuff like this apart, be sure to put it back together with NEW bolts and lock washers, along with anti-seize on the threads!
my 88 Dodge has that too. gen 1
My 1985 Ramcharger has the non working CAD system,
good fix
Thanks for watching!
I saw a video where they replace this with full chromoly axle anyone have a link to that
Just search cad delete kits
I thought the disconnect was meant to save on driveshaft and transfer case wear
That too but it really didn't do much in the way of that seeing how well a vacuum system works aka lights on a 70s lincoln
@@idontknowanythingaboutcars896 The example of 1970s Lincoln (and by extension, all vacuum operated FoMoCo hidden headlight covers of the time) is not the best one. They were designed to fail open in order to keep the driver safe in case of a loss of vacuum signal, but were otherwise closed simply for aesthetic. When the systems leaked they would creep open after a loss of vacuum signal (engine off) but if there were any decent hoses at all they would stay closed when the car was running down the road.
You want an example of a bad vacuum system? Take a look at the windshield wipers on 1940s Fords, 1950s Chevrolets and the like. If you go to pass someone in a hard downpour when you stomp the throttle you lose vacuum signal and the wipers stop working. Then after you hit something because you cannot see, if the engine returns to idle and regains vacuum signal - you can see the tree, other car, pedestrian, et cetera that you collided with. Brilliant!
@Consolidated : Yup, and the CAD systems work 99% of the time. Only noticeable issues are on these Gen II trucks that are now 18 -25 years old and are all worn-out and/or rotted. Even then, they are not that difficult to diagnose and fix if a failure occurs. Aftermarket parts are relatively inexpensive as well. Problem is, most people in general are just too stupid and/or lazy to fix problems the correct way.
Won’t this cause unnecessary wear to the front differential?
Yep...probably be repalcing the front driveshaft u joints too. The guy seems like he knows what hes doing but i wouldnt do it like that...to each his own
@@daddylonglegz5839 My thoughts exactly. There’s just no way. My 4x4 vacuum system was shot, and I took the time to repair it. I don’t understand why people take shortcuts.
@@adriananoelle4699 the way i see it... the manufacturer designed it that way for a reason
No more than factory. The did away with this system totally in 02 and the parts on those don't wear out any quicker.
@@Lray4x4 “02” as in 3rd gen, right? Because the 2002 second gens still used this system.
Just out of curiosity what causes the transfer case not to engage?
The shifter...
Air turned into moisture. N froze. These Dodge I swear. My 2016 is Kool. This is the worst set up. Coller will brake. Change to hard metal
If you lock the two axles together, they won't be able to turn at different speeds while going around a corner.
That’s why there’s an open diff in the front you pinecone
@@fiddle24v thank you omg
@@fiddle24v i literally laughed out loud at pinecone
@@FirstGendodgegarage 😂
Dodge engineer a Mickey Mouse CAD
Or just move an e clip lol
Way to much work just pull eclip move fork over put eclip back in
Why not remove CAD fork, collar, and stay 2wd. Over engineered.
@ Jared Prince : Because you need the collar to engage both the center and the RH axleshafts in order to be able to use the 4-wheel drive. DUH. It's not over engineered at all. Apparently you are just to stupid to understand how it works, and repair it, if need be.
Also, why in the hell would you want it to stay in 2wd? It's already doing that, when "broken".
do you need to swap out for locking hubs after doing this?
You don’t have to, but you should. It will wear front driveline components out quicker, but it’s not a huge deal