Thank you for sharing the patterns.... very helpful..... I didn't understand it until now.... and now Im only starting to understand..... I think i need to get an axel to practice on. Thanks!!!
Thanks again for your videos. I'm going to be putting 4.88's in a dana 30 soon and probably a lock-rite. I'd like to see a video on the rest of the rebuild too.
Hi Brian, thank you for this build. I am thinking of swapping a 30 for the 27 that’s in my Jeep right now. I would like to put disc brakes on as well. My cj5 came stock with 3.73 so looks like I’ll have to get new carriers as well. I would like to get 4.10s with an overdrive in the T case. Thank you so much for sharing, you are our Jeep guru!! God bless you and yours.
You won't need a new carrier. Dana 30 used 3.54 and up as one carrier and 3.73 and down as the other carrier. 4.10 will install properly on the carrier you have.
Brian, thank you for a great video. Someone else rebuilt both differentials in my 66CJ-5. I’m not finished with the rebuild so I’m going to pull both covers and see if I can find where the tooth pattern was checked. I hope to correct a problem before it starts. I had to replace both ring and pinion gears due to the fact they weren’t set up properly the last time! Thanks again!! My I’ll be in touch if I need help!!!!
Great job on your videos. Very helpful. Thank you for taking your time to share your knowledge. Have you made a video on the dana 44? Keep up the great work.
hi, thanks for sharing your experience. please tell me for the thermal gap, do you use a special collar to easily remove and put on so that it is easy to remove and change washers or sharpen inside the collar? such pochevniki supposedly regulate? and if you grind until the ano sits down with a little effort, then leave them or press in new ones again? Please tell me, I have been struggling with these questions for a long time?
I’ve been dying to really get into this stuff. I’m really happy to see the Dana 30 and I’m looking forward to the AMC 20 since I mostly work on later CJs. I didn’t realize there is anything to set up on the ball joints. That will be very informative. I’d love to see a T176 and Dana 300 in the future as well if you do any
I do have a question on the Differential Preload Shim thickness (not the Pinion, but the Diff). The AMC 20 Axle specifies .008 of bearing preload. The Dana 30 Spicer Service Manual states .015 of bearing preload, and you are using .005. You would think that all tapered bearings of this size would have a standard amount for this preload, but that does not seem to be the case. Where did you get .005? A Service Manual, or your personal preference? I have been following your channel for several years. I do respect your opinion. Thank you Brian.... Mike
I have rebuilt hundreds of Dana 30's. If you try to add .015 for preload you will scuff the cups when installing it due to the amount of preload. I start with enough shims so I have to lightly tap the carrier in place. Then adjust the backlash and finally add my .005 to the bolt side. At that point it will take a bit more to install it and the preload is just right. As I said it is a feel type thing, the carrier should not just fall in and you shouldn't have to get a huge hammer to bang it in. Try one at .005 or .008 and see what feels like then try it again at .015 and see the difference.
That .015 in the manual is when starting the carrier out with 0 backlash from the forum I read. Ring as tight against the pinion as possible. Then add .015 to drivers side to get appropriate preload and backlash. At least that was the gist of what I read. Think I sent you the forum on Facebook. Was hoping Brian’s new video would have mentioned that method but I trust his setups
@@mattoliver9939 I’d rather go with something that makes sense from an experienced person than “just use the book” It sounds like if you do it the ‘book’ way you’d need a case spreader.
Do you have to put in a crusher sleeve? I actually have this setup in the garage and need to do this exact process. other than the torqu wrench - no other special tools? Good Work! was thinking about paying someone to do it but based on this i should be able to do it...
The dana 30 uses shims, not a crush sleeve. To do this job you will need basic tools, and some specialty tools: Bearing puller Press for removing and installing bearings Rotational torque wrench Torque wrench dial indicator Ball joint install/remover kit A few other items that you may or may not have around your shop depending on the extent of your tools.
I'm doing .456 gears on a old scrambler Im also doing no crush sleeve...Im having hell! Factory spec is 65 I'm all the way down to maybe 20 and I can't get this thang to seat to get pre load!
depending on the axle sometimes you wind up with no shims in there, and in extreme cases sometimes have to machine some material off the main " washer" . Do what ever it takes to get the right rotational torque.
I’m really liking this series Brian please do more
will do
Brian … Yes … I like see you continue you Dana 30 gears setup. Juan
Thanks Juan, will show the rest.
Brings back memory Brian,, I loved Gearbox, T/case & Diff work at my Toyota shop years ago. Regards Frank
good to know you are still watching Frank. Lots of drivetrain work here in the shop right now so lots more coming
This was an educational video, not just a video of something being thrown together. Thank you for such and informative video.
Winter will get me back on my CJ, Still have the rear end to rebuild. Best to you and Maria, Bear
Ty brian for taken your time to educate us folks on this type of work !!!!!!!! always do a straight forward job on advisen folks
always good to have you watching
This is a fantastic series! Yes please keep going on this.
Will do, thanks for letting me know you enjoy it.
@@metalshaperJeep it’s pretty good. Better than watching CBS.
Great step by step rebuild. Assuming the process would be the same for Dana 25 and 41 ??? 19:28
Great stuff. Please keep going on this. I would love to see the brakes getting done. Thanks for the videos.
Thanks, will do!
Thank you for sharing the patterns.... very helpful..... I didn't understand it until now.... and now Im only starting to understand..... I think i need to get an axel to practice on. Thanks!!!
Great step by step video Brian Thanks!! Assuming the same details and specs would apply to the Dana 25 and 41 ?????
Thanks again for your videos. I'm going to be putting 4.88's in a dana 30 soon and probably a lock-rite. I'd like to see a video on the rest of the rebuild too.
Will do
Hi Brian, thank you for this build. I am thinking of swapping a 30 for the 27 that’s in my Jeep right now. I would like to put disc brakes on as well. My cj5 came stock with 3.73 so looks like I’ll have to get new carriers as well. I would like to get 4.10s with an overdrive in the T case. Thank you so much for sharing, you are our Jeep guru!! God bless you and yours.
You won't need a new carrier. Dana 30 used 3.54 and up as one carrier and 3.73 and down as the other carrier. 4.10 will install properly on the carrier you have.
Brian, thank you for a great video. Someone else rebuilt both differentials in my 66CJ-5. I’m not finished with the rebuild so I’m going to pull both covers and see if I can find where the tooth pattern was checked. I hope to correct a problem before it starts. I had to replace both ring and pinion gears due to the fact they weren’t set up properly the last time! Thanks again!! My I’ll be in touch if I need help!!!!
Many, many improperly set up axles come thru my shop, take a peek in there and see what it looks like before you run it.
Thank you, I sure will!!
great job, now i am game to take on putting the new gear set in and locker. :)
Great job on your videos. Very helpful. Thank you for taking your time to share your knowledge. Have you made a video on the dana 44? Keep up the great work.
Hi Brian. Keep these coming please!
More to come!
Great Stuff, Thank you Brian for the Info.... from the UK
Glad you enjoyed it
hi, thanks for sharing your experience. please tell me for the thermal gap, do you use a special collar to easily remove and put on so that it is easy to remove and change washers or sharpen inside the collar? such pochevniki supposedly regulate? and if you grind until the ano sits down with a little effort, then leave them or press in new ones again? Please tell me, I have been struggling with these questions for a long time?
Another great video!!! TY for sharing your knowledge
Glad you enjoyed it!
Enjoy it and love it! Thank you! My pinion seal is different than yours! I guess they make a bunch of different ones!
yes there are different types of pinion seals, as long as they seal it doesn't matter though.
@@metalshaperJeep Thank you!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you, it was very helpful
Looking good zBrian, thank you for the information.
Your Dana 30 is going thru the exact same process as this one.
I’ve been dying to really get into this stuff. I’m really happy to see the Dana 30 and I’m looking forward to the AMC 20 since I mostly work on later CJs. I didn’t realize there is anything to set up on the ball joints. That will be very informative. I’d love to see a T176 and Dana 300 in the future as well if you do any
Dana 300 is coming soon. Nothing too special about ball joints but it is amazing how many messed up ones come thru my shop.
I found a couple good d300 videos but would much prefer one from Brian. The other guys Manhattan accent kills me
I do have a question on the Differential Preload Shim thickness (not the Pinion, but the Diff). The AMC 20 Axle specifies .008 of bearing preload. The Dana 30 Spicer Service Manual states .015 of bearing preload, and you are using .005. You would think that all tapered bearings of this size would have a standard amount for this preload, but that does not seem to be the case. Where did you get .005? A Service Manual, or your personal preference? I have been following your channel for several years. I do respect your opinion. Thank you Brian.... Mike
I have rebuilt hundreds of Dana 30's. If you try to add .015 for preload you will scuff the cups when installing it due to the amount of preload. I start with enough shims so I have to lightly tap the carrier in place. Then adjust the backlash and finally add my .005 to the bolt side. At that point it will take a bit more to install it and the preload is just right. As I said it is a feel type thing, the carrier should not just fall in and you shouldn't have to get a huge hammer to bang it in. Try one at .005 or .008 and see what feels like then try it again at .015 and see the difference.
@@metalshaperJeep I appreciate the response Brian. Thank you for the info
That .015 in the manual is when starting the carrier out with 0 backlash from the forum I read. Ring as tight against the pinion as possible. Then add .015 to drivers side to get appropriate preload and backlash. At least that was the gist of what I read. Think I sent you the forum on Facebook. Was hoping Brian’s new video would have mentioned that method but I trust his setups
@@mattoliver9939
I’d rather go with something that makes sense from an experienced person than “just use the book”
It sounds like if you do it the ‘book’ way you’d need a case spreader.
Great stuff Brian !
Do you have to put in a crusher sleeve? I actually have this setup in the garage and need to do this exact process. other than the torqu wrench - no other special tools? Good Work! was thinking about paying someone to do it but based on this i should be able to do it...
The dana 30 uses shims, not a crush sleeve. To do this job you will need basic tools, and some specialty tools:
Bearing puller
Press for removing and installing bearings
Rotational torque wrench
Torque wrench
dial indicator
Ball joint install/remover kit
A few other items that you may or may not have around your shop depending on the extent of your tools.
@@metalshaperJeep would it be possible to get an email address so i can share my images and details about my 2 axels i need to build up?
@@tlmckee2002 you can reach me at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
I'm doing .456 gears on a old scrambler Im also doing no crush sleeve...Im having hell! Factory spec is 65 I'm all the way down to maybe 20 and I can't get this thang to seat to get pre load!
depending on the axle sometimes you wind up with no shims in there, and in extreme cases sometimes have to machine some material off the main " washer" . Do what ever it takes to get the right rotational torque.
@@metalshaperJeep I ended up getting it! I went all the way down to .20 lol
why don’t my shim fit ?
I’m installing the spartan helical lsd on my wrangler jk
Very helpful
What exactly is a "setup bearing"? Do you bore out an actual bearing or...??
I take a bearing and hone out the ID so it is a slip fit. You can use anything to bore it out just keep it round and don't make it too large.
I used a die grinder. Wear gloves!
I would like to see it go back together please
ok appreciate you letting me know. Thanks
Is there a way to do pinion depth without that tool, can I use a flat bar and a caliper?
I’m probably stupid, but is a Rotational Torque Wrench the same as a Dial Torque Wrench?