Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel | Pro Painter Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- Professional painter Jeremy Vassar reviews Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel. He explains why it's now our go-to trim paint and why you may want to consider taking a look at it for your next project.
Thanks for all the info--I used this paint on a crib for my new granddaughter, and it came out GORGEOUS!!
Oh excellent and congratulations!!
Thanks for the explanation. I was just at Sherwin-Williams and asked them about the two Emerald paints. Your explanation was much clearer.
I love your channel. I’ve been painting for many years as an amateur. Every year I try to improve from the last year. It’s nice to hear a pro confirm things I’ve learned through the years and great to learn some new things too.
Thanks you!
Thanks for the comment Carl! I'm glad you found my review helpful. That's a great goal to continue to improve over the years. The better you get the easier it becomes which is the great thing about accruing skills!
Finally I got my answer! I do not need primer for my dresser. Thanks so much , great video !
Glad we could help
I agree with you. I am using Pro block oil base primer and emerald urethane for cabinets and it is really the best finish for me!
Thanks for the informative video
That’s a solid combo. I know guys using that combination or BIN shellac and then Emerald Urethane 👍
Bought it for my kitchen cabinets. Will be doing it this weekend!
Good luck Christina!
Works very very well. Top notch!!!
Glad you like it David.
Lots of good info, and inside baseball stuff. Helpful for the non-painters out here. Thanks.
Glad we could help Tom. Appreciate the feedback as well. We are trying to help the non painters as much as possible.
@@SuperVassarBrothers j
Nice choice Jeremy. I'm just a handy man, but spend a lot of time painting. This has been my "Go To" trim paint for a couple years now. It goes on and lays out like oil, but water clean up is so much better. Speaking of which, on cleaning the brushes. Just keep them fresh until it's time to clean, and use wire brushes to help. I use a regular large steel wire brush to start, then finish with a smaller fine bristle wire brush and my brushes come out like new every time. BTW, you forgot to mention one of the other great features of this paint. It is INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR! I love that!
Hi Chris. Glad you like the Urethane and yes we did forget to mention you can use it on exterior. We haven't used it on exterior so we were reluctant to comment on it. Sounds like your wire brush game is one point. :)
Very nice review. Thank you guys.
Thanks for the feedback Istvan
@@SuperVassarBrothers I just finished 1st coat with Emerald. :) Amazing product. Thank you very much.
I used this and had to learn on how to modify ( break all rules), to get this to work with a modified hvlp gun that I used for painting auto body to apply on cabinets. I will say after the “learning curve “, I stumbled on a system for close to automotive finish with this paint that, so far, is durable and touch ups match nicely with. It is a winner.
Well done sir. HVLP guns are tricky. I salute your efforts 🫡
Very informative, thank you!
Happy to help AZ!
I know this is old but when I did residential painting we learned to just knock out the brushes to keep them from dripping and then keep the brushes in their original holders which kept them moist so they never dried out. Always worked.
If you have an issue keeping them in the original cardboard holders when wet (we never did but I can see how that would happen) you could try anything else like aluminum foil, plastic wrap, ziplock bags etc.
We use plastic wrap when they’re wet then they’re back in their holders after they’re dry.
I love this stuff you can use a ff tip with an airless and it lays down wonderfully hardly ever need to prime as well unless your going to go white from a dark color
Yes indeed. I used that exact setup to spray some radiators a couple weeks ago. It's still our go-to trim paint 🤙
I’m using this in a satin finish to paint all of my interior doors Tricorn Black. Just finished the project a few days ago. Scuffed my white doors and had to paint 3 coats for full coverage. First coat was like a primer, second covered I’d say 93% but you could still see a little white popping through here and there. Third coat covered it all. Love it so far after it dries and hardens, but it takes weeks to do. I’ve had to touch up here and there and it blends nicely. I rolled it and brushed in the “window” box panels (whatever people call them). For 16 doors, it took right around 1.5 gallons and that’s for 3 coats rolled on.
Nice! I'm glad it worked out for you! One thing to consider is using a dark gray primer for extreme color changes like white to black. You'll still end up doing three coats, but your first coat would be the primer. We do this sometimes when we're painting new front doors. Either way works great as long as you get the result you were going for!🤙
What brush and roller did you use? Did you spray the doors? If so an help or airless?
@@beckyschelert9261 used a mini 4 inch purdy roller with the dove rollers. Brushed in the “window” edges and cracks with a one inch or 1.5 inch brush. Spraying would be far faster, but you’d have to be really careful moving them as the paint takes forever to harden.
If it took 3 coats with a brush you are pulling the paint too much. Dip your brush, do a 10x10 square and repeat. Especially in tricorn black it shouldnt take 3 coats with this product. I've used that color several times and it always covers well.
your paint took 3 weeks to cure because you put 3 coats on, probably not giving it enough time inbetween to release all the moisture. use a fan or get some airflow to speed up dry time
literally watching your videos over and over again cus im repainting my house lol
I hope they're helping! Thanks for watching! :)
That was a very nice video on the emerald urethane you forgot to mention that it’s self leveling I did a test with a cheap throwaway brush from the big box store and I used the emerald and I took a photo how you can see brush marks right after painting but after the paint dried it leveled out no brush marks I gave that sample of to my local Sherman Williams store here in Monterey California so he can show customers.
Thanks for the feedback Paul. Next time we talk about Urethane we'll try to mention that.
Really appreciate your right-to-the point well organized videos and the occasional light humor that you add. Thanks.
Saw your video on the flaws of the Shur-Line tools where you mention the importance of practicing good brushing, and looked for you doing a brushing technique video.
Am wondering if you've done a video on using a paint brush well for tight spots like wall ceiling corners?
Thanks Dennis. Sounds like a good video idea. We did a tutorial on brushing early on in our channel. Thanks again
@@SuperVassarBrothers If that early tutorial is still up, I'm bound to find it soon. Going thru the 17 Bedroom tutorials at the moment. BTW, the way your bedroom series is built is really helpful. Lot's of good stuff, but no firehose all at once. Thank you.
I am using the exact same paint you are using. I really like it. My paint was $105.00 but with the sale price I picked it up for $70.45 with tax what a great deal Hands down Sherwin Wiliams is the best paint if you have the money pay it and you will not be disappointed. If you’re not satisfied, take it back and you’ll get your money back.
Well done sir!
As far as brush cleaning after using SW Emerald Urethane : First, I wipe off as much excess paint as I can with a pre-moistened wipe - wet ones, Lysol wipes (whatever I have on hand). Then a very thorough initial rinse with water. For the dried-on paint that remains on the bristles, I apply a decent amount of isopropyl alcohol (Purell works, too) and a good degreaser dish soap. I run the bristles between my fingers to dissolve the remained dried-on paint with the alcohol-dish soap mixture, and finish with thorough final rinse with plain water. I use synthetic high-quality expensive brushes, and all are as good as new using this method. (I would not use alcohol on natural bristle brushes, however).
I like it. I’m going to give that a try with my Corona Vegas brushes. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you for an excellent channel and review on SW EU trim paint! It is currently on sale in my local SW store and I'll be giving it a try over the weekend.
I'm not professional painter and just doing a reno on my property. Would love to see a "how to" on using airless sprayer with SW EU, SW SOLO and other SW products.
What is your opinion on using latex extenders which claim to reduce brush lines? Do you ever thin your paint with water?
Excellent videos! Informative, with a bit of humor and straight to the point. Subscribed instantly.
Thanks for the comment and I hope you like the Emerald Urethane! I've used extenders before, but only on paints that have really quick dry times. The trim paints that are currently in our rotation don't require any extender.
I don't thin any of the paints I use with water. You may hear otherwise, but that may affect the finish quality of the paint.
Good luck with your project!
@@SuperVassarBrothers I primed exterior door and painted with SW EU and it came out amazing! Not going to use any other paint for trim.
BTW, I followed your recommendation and didn't use extender but it still levelled well.
Do you have any experience with SW Emerald Rain Refresh? My local SW store recommend it but it is really expensive and there are not too many reviews online on it.
Thanks! I have been having trouble with BM advanced runs, sounds like this product would be better for me
Hi John. Yes we've had issues with runs with BM Advance. The satin finish isn't bad, but the semi gloss is quite runny. The Urethane semi gloss is one of our go to's and we don't have issues with runs nearly as much. Good luck!
In case it helps, I have had better results with Advance when I pay attention to having fairly thin coats. As long as the coat is thinner, I can paint vertical surfaces with no runs or drips.
wow who did the art on the cover picture!!! amazing!!!!
My buddy Curtis has started to work on the thumbnails. We've got lots more cool ones coming 😁
Thank you for all your videos, I was wanting to try this product on some new wood trim and panel doors I am installing, I already have plenty of Bullseye 123 primer left over,do you think this trim paint will stick to the Bullseye 123,or should I buy a wood primer, Thank you again
The Emerald Urethane should stick just fine to the Bullseye 123. Good luck with your project!
Like Luna Lytele, I'm literary watching pp over and over again.. because he's cute,to the point, has a nice easy voice,and he's good at this !😁
Thanks!
I've always been a fan of white shellac ( Zinsser's B-I-N) as a primer when painting over stained trim, mainly for the dry time and adhesion. Will that work well with Emerald Urethane?
Hi Paula. Yeah, the Zinsser BIN will work great. Emerald Urethane will stick to about anything so your good to go there. Good luck!
Thanks for the great, informative video! Could this urethane trim paint be used on the bathroom walls and ceiling or is that not advised? I know that SW makes a regular Emerald paint for walls, but since I will have a gallon of it anyway for all the trim and doors, I will have enough leftover.
You could do that if you think you’ll like that level of sheen on the walls and ceiling. We usually use Duration matte on the walls and ceiling and Emerald Urethane on the trim and doors. You can take a look at this video about our load outs for bathrooms if you want to see some more examples. Good luck with your project!
th-cam.com/video/ZnvsIGrAa_o/w-d-xo.html
I use dawn to clean my brushes and a wire brush. Works great and my brush stays soft
I’ve started using dawn and sometimes brush and roller cleaner from M1 and that’s working well with my brushes when I’ve used the urethane.
If you're having a problem with hard brushes. Grab some Butly Cellosolve from S.W. mix it 50/50 with water and wash your brushes with it. Or let them set in it for a while. Since it is water soluble it's easier to clean than mineral spirits and there won't be any chance of contamination in your waterbased finishes.
Thanks Jet. You are a gentleman and a scholar
I don't really find any of these paints to be truly 'soap and water' cleanup only. I've been using the Krud Kutter Heavy Duty product for various cleaning tasks for a while and I decided to try it on brushes that hadn't cleaned up well because it lists latex as something it cleans up and it worked fantastic! Try Krud Kutter Heavy Duty for your brush cleanup.
Thanks JPowell we will give that a try. We''ve had the same experience with soap and water. Thanks for the tip!
second that opinion, I keep either that or shout laundry pre treat in the spray bottle on hand for brushes and rollers
I'm not a professional painter, but IME getting latex brushes adequately clean is more difficult than getting oil brushes adequately clean. With oil, I start with mineral spirits and clean them well all the way into the heel by just moving them up and pressing the bristles to get paint out of the heel so there is no trace of anything thick in there, and just watery thinner, even if it has the color of the paint, thus I don't go through much thinner to do that either. This softens and cleans out the heel area also. After that I pump them in soap and water, and afterward rinse them from the end and into the heel until the water runs clear out of the heel. It won't come out clean if it needs a littler more soap and water washing. Then I just spin them between my fingers like you probably do, wipe the bristles straight down straight with a towel, put them back into its cardboard sleeve, and hang them it. When you get some latex somewhat dry in the heel, neither thinner nor water will soften it. I end up trying to comb and slide some of it down the brisles, but then you get dandruff and the core slowly gets bigger and harder over time.
I have a house that someone put wallpaper in. After I took it off, I saw how smooth and flat the paint is, it's as if it was sprayed. It's oil. I hate the stipple of a roller. I want the smooth finish in the entire house and will sand the rest of the house where latex has been put on to get it. If I can get that without oil, I'll do it, else it's going to be oil.
Thanks for the comment.
Jeremy - Great review. I have a couple of questions. The trim in my house is oil based. Last year my painting contractor used Sherwin-Williams ProMar 200 Interior Alkyd Gloss on the trim in our master bedroom, closet and bath. It is gorgeous! It is extremely bright white, super glossy and bulletproof. However, the VOC on this paint is 480 gm/litre. We could not sleep in the room for a week and it took several months for the odor to totally dissipate. Now he's going to paint the other two bedrooms and a hall bath. I have health concerns about using the Promar 200 Alkyd with such a high VOC level. If we use the Emerald - 1. Will it go over the existing oil based without prep? 2. How would you compare the gloss level between the ProMar 200 Alkyd and the Emerald? Thanks!
Hi Alan. Yeah the Alkyd paints are durable but they do have a potent smell. The Alkyd most likely will have a higher gloss, but the Emerald Urethane Gloss would be a good alternative. We use the Emerald Urethane semi gloss over previously painted oil trim all the time. Seems comparable to most semi glosses. The smell is way less and you should be able to sleep in there within a few days. Most of our clients are back within a day and we haven't had any complaints.
I've been painting alkyd oil base paint for 35 years with super high gloss it turns yellow in time looks like iam going to change ,I'll still clean and use a liquid deglosser
@@jameschuke4104only yellows if it doesn’t get light.
I have been using valspar im only a diy guy but looking to learn about better paint options while re doing moulding in my home to make it look more professional.
Hi. We don't have much experience with Valspar so I don't have an informed opinion on that line of paint. For Sherwin Williams we like Duration semi gloss (did a video on that as well) and Emerald Urethane semi gloss. Duration can't go over oil paint, but is a little easier to work with. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers I went to my local sw they can’t get the emerald so I ended up going with dtm acrylic coating they said it was comparable I shall see this weekend hope it works
Was just introduced to this product. I am painting cabinets in a large kitchen..can you confirm that as long as I scuff up the cabinets, which are oak with a poly coat, I can go directly over the existing finish.
You could try that process on a test area like one panel and see if you get a solid bond. Most of the fellas that I know that specialize in painting cabinets use a high bond primer like BIN, which is a shellac based primer. Then they go over it with their top coats.
We have Pro Classic on our trim and doors and they look great. What would you recommend for kitchen cabinets? Thanks
#1 Advance from Benjamin Moore
#2 Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel from Sherwin Williams
If you’re going to brush it then I’d pair it with a Corona Vegas brush
Great review thank you! Couple of questions...we're looking to paint over wood textured LVP flooring. Do I need to sand and/or prime the LVP? And would it be necessary to use the Rustoleum floor paint sealer to add additional layers of protection since the paint will be on the floor in a high traffic area? How does the Emerald compare to the SW All Surface Enamel and would that be better for floor painting?
I have no experience painting LVP flooring. I'm not even sure if that will hold up over time. I would contact a Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore store and see what a manager there would recommend. I think you're going to run into issues finding a product that will adhere to the LVP and hold up to foot traffic. Good luck with your project!
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you for your reply. I will do just that!
I tried using Emerald with a mini foam roller after formerly using the Pro Classic in our last home on all trim and it left a lot of texture. I've switched back to Pro Classic (finally found it in stock) but still having trouble with texture and bubbles. What are your thoughts on the Pro Classic in semi gloss?
Hi Brandon. For the trim we usually brush and thus don't have the texture issues, just brush strokes. We've had limited success with foam rollers (doors, shadow boxes, cabinets). We will use 4" wide rollers with 1/4 inch nap on flat doors which gives us a smooth finish. Downside is you can't get as close to the edges with that roller. For the bubbles try sanding with 150 or 220 sandpaper before you paint. For Pro Classic some guys love it, usually guys who used it a lot. We don't like that paint much, but thats just us. You may want to try Benjamin Moore Advance as we did a video about that as well. Happy painting!
Foam rollers and brushes suck for everything. Buy a good china bristle brush or high quality low nap roller for Petes sake. It's not worth saving 8 bucks for a cheap ass foam tool.
Thanks so much for this. Settling on our first home next week and now I definitely know what to grab for trim! Wondering if you have a preference between Pure White or Extra White for Trim, and if I will see much a difference between the two? The house doesn't have recessed lighting (yet) so don't know if one over the other would look better since the house can be poorly lit at times. Thanks so much!!!
Congrats on the new home Dana. I don't notice much of a difference between the colors. We typically get the stock white (no tint added) when we do white trim. That way if you buy too much you can return it. Happy painting!
@ Dana Cramer
Pure white is just a tiny touch warmer, than extra white. There’s some great articles online, about the differences.
Personally just went through this’ spent hours online trying to get answers’ Bought 2 gals of pure White’
What I can tell you…. IT WILL LOOK DINGY and dirty u less you have a glass house aka letting a lot of light in’
I did all trim and door casing PW and as said it looks dirty’ it has a yellow under tone’
Last week I got a gal of extra white and what A CHANGE! it looks amazing it’s a truly crisp white’
If u are going for modern 100% get EW
Imo pay the $10 go get a sample of each one’ that’s going to give you the best comparison’
Excellent video!!
Do I have to sand between coats and can I recoat the next day?
We’ll do a light sand between coats if needed. You can easily re-coat in the same day. We do it all the time. It’s one of the reasons we really like this paint.
I'm going to give this product a try on some built-in shelving I'm making for a closet. Does it require a primer to be used first on unpainted wood?
Yes. I’d recommend using a wood primer first. My current favorite is premium wall and wood primer from Sherwin Williams.
@practicalpainting
Thanks for the video! I’m planning on using this SW emerald trim paint to paint my wooden hand rail for my stairs. Do I need to use primer prior to painting the sanded wood hand rails for the stairway?
Hey John. If your handrail is raw wood then yes prime it. If its previously painted, give it a good sand and apply (2) coats or the Urethane. Good choice of paint. Its not cheap, but in my opinion worth it. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers awesome! Appreciate your reply, is a multi purpose latex primer compatible with the SW urethane trim paint?
Great video! I noticed the base of the can you used in the video is Hi Hide White. Do you know the differences between the bases? Is "Ultra White" a brighter white than "Deep Base"? Do you always use Hi Hide White right off the shelf?
The white base in emerald urethane is slightly different than the other base whites from SW. I believe that is due to the fact that it’s a hybrid. In most of their acrylics like regular Emerald or Duration the base white is Extra White. The deep base or ultra deep base are for darker colors. And yes, we often use untinted emerald urethane in the Hi Hide White for a lot of our trim work.
Great video thanks.You can put Benjamin moore 508 extender on your Cortez brush and it will clean up really good and much faster.Work the extender into the bristles.You can also use floetrol but the Benjamin moore seems to work better.
I’ll give that a try. Thanks!
Do you need to paint raw wood. Making some bathroom cabinets and I’m wondering if I’ll need to prime first or if it would cut costs to prime first leading to using less of the high dollar Emerald.
Hi Chris. Good observation. Yes your life will be much better if you prime the raw wood first. The best (and expensive) primer is the Sherwin Williams wall and wood primer. ( www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/premium-wall-wood-primer ), or you can use a primer like Sherwin Williams Multi Purpose ( www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/multipurpose-interiorexterior-latex-primersealer ) which is more budget friendly and is a great product as well. Good luck!
Great review! This may be a dumb question but you said you went directly over dark stained wood trim with 3 coats of this. I’m curious why you didn’t use 1 coat of adhesive primer and then 1 or 2 coats of this instead?
Hi Indy. Good question. Sometimes instead of using a primer we'll do three top coats instead. Otherwise we'll do 1 prime coat and 2 topcoats.
Also we may not have had any primer at the job that day and we will improvise. Have a good one!
Hi Indy. Good question. Sometimes instead of using a primer we'll do three top coats instead. Otherwise we'll do 1 prime coat and 2 topcoats.
Also we may not have had any primer at the job that day and we will improvise. Have a good one!
Im building my own shaker kitchen cabinets. Simple square edge stuff.
So whats best paint finishes, number of coats, sanding etc.
Birch plywood carcasses, poplar face frames, and doors will be polar/alder frames with MDF panels. Suggestion?
Gonna leave the interiors natural. Want to spray them with a clear finish. Suggestion?
and Primer?
Thanks!
Hi Don. I"ll answer your main question on the Emerald vs Advance comment you made
For the clear finish we like the Zars from Benny Moore satin clear finish. Did a video on Zars as well
I'm curious why you said that about ProClassic. I used it for my door and trim. It rolls acceptable and sprays pretty good. Now I'm going to spray paint my kitchen cabinet and I wonder how much better Emerald Urethane is. I'm just a DIYer. Thank you!
Hi Yue. We don't spray kitchen cabinets so maybe Pro Classic is good for that. In our experience we have had a lot of painters tell us Pro Classic is great. We've used it multiple times and found it runny, hard to work with, and doesn't cover as well as we wanted. Emerald Urethane in our opinion is a much better product. If you use the Urethane let us know how it compares. Good luck!
I hate pro classic. It runs easy, and if you try to brush it, drags
@@shidoin5398 ha, try BM Advance - everything you said but worse
Hey, Practical Painting - Question: My understanding at this is a great product for kitchen cabinets as well. We have existing white cabinetry, but want to refresh them with a new coat of similar white paint.
If we can use the Semi-Gloss on the cabinets, in addition to the trim/doors, I'd like to do that. Just wanted to get your thoughts on using it for the cabinets.
Thanks
It's a great product for kitchen cabinets. A lot of the guys that I know that paint cabinets like using it. Because of the urethane in it, it dries harder than many other products which helps with durability.
Good luck with your cabinets!
@@SuperVassarBrothers - Thank you so much for the prompt reply. I wish you were in our area, I'd hire you!
Good video! How soon after finishing the 2nd coat can apply yellow frog tape? 1-2 days.
Closer to 1-2 hours.
very helpful. Emerald has been really hard to get clean coverage
I’m glad it was helpful!
AWESOME VIDEO 👍👍👍
After applying an oil base primer, is it necessary to sand the trim or cabinet door before applying the water base top coat. Again, GREAT VIDEO!!!
Hi Sam. After applying the primer no need to sand. If you see any rough spots after you prime you can sand those areas if you would like. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers THANK YOU 👍
Could you say roughly how long this emits odor? I've got one week until my new baby is here and I'm not sure if I have time to use this to repaint the trim of the nursery or not. Unknown white semi-gloss product on them currently, but I've already sanded and deglossed everything. I don't mind using full latex if I have to.
You can do a lot to speed up the off gassing by using fans to move air through the room after you’ve finished painting. Open windows and move air through the room. If you do that then you should be all good in time for your baby 👼
Will Kilz 3 premium primer work with this paint? I will be painting exterior untreated bare 2x4 wood trim. Thanks in advance, your channel has been super helpful.
That combination should work just fine. If you start getting bleed through with the wood trim, then you may need to use a beefier oil-based primer. Give it a go with the Kilz and see how it looks after you get a coat of primer and paint on it. On a related side note I prefer Benjamin Moore's Moorglo Soft-Gloss for exterior trim. Emerald Urethane is nice, but Moorglo is the cat's jammers. I did a review of that product as well and I'll link to it at the bottom of this comment. Good luck with your project!
th-cam.com/video/Lwq4U9Cd5Y4/w-d-xo.html
Hope you can help me, I have an aluminum camper (white paint) that I've removed the extremely cracked graphics on. The only thing that worked was GraphX, I knew it would remove the (very thin) paint down to the metal. I scuffed, cleaned and applied 3 light even coats of (gray) etching primer to the bare aluminum (it laid out very smooth). I purchased some PPG Seal Gripper (acrylic) primer but haven't applied it yet. I called SW today and told them I was looking for good strong exterior paint and my situation. He did recommend the Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel but said he wouldn't recommend and couldn't guarantee that the etching primer or the Gripper primer is compatible with the EUTE. Should I sand off the etching primer back to bare metal? Should I not use the Gripper primer at all? Or do you think it would be ok to prime over the etching primer WITH the Gripper primer and then apply the EUTE paint, as it's supposed to grip to most anything? Thank you for your time!
That’s an interesting situation. I have zero experience with the type of project you’re doing. That being said, emerald urethane should stick. I’d do an area and then see how it looks after it dries a bit. You’ll know whether or not it’s adhered properly. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you very much, I will do this. Have a wonderful weekend!
I’m about to use this on my kitchen cabinets, wish me luck! I chose it because of the dry time, workability, and because SW stores are the only ones near me lol. Can I use Kilz oil-based primer with this?
Good luck Rebekah. Yes you can use the Kilz oil primer. You may want to invest in a respirator as the oil primer is intense. Hope your project goes well!
I have already done this, and it came out great! Customer bought some new Diamond cabinets for the lowers (white) and I repainted the uppers. I was a 90's vintage mobile home, so I primed the cabinets with Zinser BIN primer, for the great sticking and sealing properties. After two coats of the Emerald Urethane, Satin finish, brush & fine nap roller, you can't tell the difference between the old cabinets and the new ones.
Thanks for the wonderful video. I just bought this product to repaint ALL my base, window & door trim that is currently oil based. I was told by several different painters that as long as I get the shine off my oil based paint Emerald will adhere to all my doors & trim without first using a primer. I was told I could use liquid sandpaper to do this versus a light sanding. You had mentioned it will “practically” paint over anything, so will liquid sand prep be adequate? My home is 2,800 SF & I don’t want to mess this up. Thanks!
Hi Beth. Thanks for watching the video. I'm sure liquid sandpaper would work as well as regular sandpaper. I would recommend doing a small area first and see if you like the results. Adjust as needed on the prep and you should be good to go!
When using emerald urethane on trim do you need to degloss exsisting trim. I have semigloss white. Currently on trim ?
We don’t generally have to use deglosser. Emerald urethane has pretty good adhesion. The only issue we run into is when it’s been previously painted with oil trim paint. Then we may have to use a specialty primer like BIN Shellac.
Pp can you recommend a monster green paint color for my stripped and sanded wood exterior door (does not get direct sunlight ) ?
Sorry don't know any greens off the top of my head. Benny Moore or Sherwin Williams have a bunch to pick from
Hey Jeremy. Love the channel. Great information and right to the point!
Two part question for you. One I did a kilz primer coat with my airless sprayer over my white oak stained cabinet doors. Sanded lightly first with 220 and then sanded again before applying SW EU coat number one. I’m just wondering if I should sand real lightly with 320-400 again between coats? I left them dry for a couple days now.
Two I’m also going to paint all my 20ish year old solid oak doors that I believe have some sort of lacquer with maybe a poly on top. You mentioned I can go right over this with the SW EU but said to scuff it. Do you mean light by hand or a little 220 on my orbital sander and by hand in the edges? Also could I use my sprayer or go by hand for a coat atleast for it to adhere then spray? Sorry for all the questions lol. Thanks in advance!!
Hi Matt, thanks for the feedback.
Question #1: We don't paint a lot of cabinets so we won't claim to be experts. In our experience sanding with 320 or 400 between coats will only help smooth things out.
Question #2. For Lacquer doors, yes do a good sanding. If you want to be super safe, prime with an oil based interior primer. Zinnszer cover stain works. It smells, but it will grip. The Urethane should grip, but since its a door it will take more abuse than say a wall or normal trim and could peel. If it were me I would use an oil primer, then you can use any latex paint on top. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you sir!! Cabinets turned out great! I’ll be sanding the doors this week!
You are better off with Zinszer BIN primer"s
Great video! I am about to do my first project with Emerald...updating my golden oak trim to white. I think it'd like to put on a coat of primer (unless you really urge against it). What primer, or type of primer would you recommend? I assume they are not all equal! Thanks for your help and this video!
I'm about to do a video on what primer goes where, but I would highly recommend using BIN primer from Zinsser. You can get it from Home Depot, Benjamin Moore Retailers, and I think Lowe's. It's an oil-based shellac primer and it works really well for priming stained trim. We just did a similar product and it worked really well for us. The BIN is my current go-to oil-based primer. Good luck with your project!
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks for the recommendation! No issue putting a Latex paint on top of oil based primer? Any experience with SW Premium Wall and Wood primer? This was recommended by SW, obviously, but of course doesn't mean it's the best!
@@danielfeldman7913I just used the BIN Zinsser synthetic Shellac. (Water based) and it went beautifully with SW Urethane. I will have to see how it holds up!
I love Emerald Urethane it’s my new go to trim paint on new houses Stuff is amazing way better than Ben Moore Advance
Agreed! I just used Emerald Urethane today on a new bathroom. It's great!
@@SuperVassarBrothers yep
Only thing better on wood is a 2000 K product
Interesting! I find that EU feels a more rubbery than Advance, which feels more "glassy" when you run your hand over it.
Was thinking about using this on entry & garage doors, not recommended?
It works for interior and exterior so it’s a solid move. I still prefer Benjamin Moore Moorglo Soft-Gloss for exterior doors but the Emerald Urethane is still a good choice.
I thought you were recommending Duration as best trim paint in another video? Which one is it?
This is our current load out for 2023. We are always looking for better performing products. Duration is still decent but we’ve been using Emerald Urethane on the majority of the trim we paint for about 2 years now. My New Paint Load Out // 2023
th-cam.com/video/ceynEKT5loc/w-d-xo.html
Do you prime previously painted surfaces before applying the Emerald Urethane?
No primer needed my friend.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks!
Should I add a clearcoat on top?
Nope. You’ll be good to go with just the Emerald Urethane 👍
When you brush it how does it lay down? Can you tell it was brushes after it dries? Have you tested durability over oil based paint?
My preferred brush for this product, and pretty much any trim paint, is a Corona Vegas 2 1/2 inch sashed brush. You can get them at most Benjamin Moore retailers. The paint levels out quite well, but you'll still see brush strokes. Part of that has to do with how well you can lay down the product. We've had varied experiences going over oil. You'll want to do a test spot with it to see if you get good adhesion. If you're not, then you may want to consider using an oil primer or a shellac like BIN.
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you!!
It is really expensive but it is the best to paint MDF cabinets , the best
I am still a fan. It’s our current go-to trim paint 🤙
Hi there Jeremy!
Thank you so much for your videos. Very knowledgeable and helpful. Exactly what I needed.
I have a question though. So per this video I’ve decided to go with the SW Emerald paint. I went online to purchase but seen the reviews are terrible. It barely holds 3 stars. Should I just go ahead and purchase it anyhow? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Obviously everyone is entitled to their own opinions as it relates to their experience. In my experience, Emerald Urethane is a great product if you're applying it correctly. Less experienced painters may have issues with it, particularly if you've never used a hybrid trim paint before. Its not as easy to work with as something like Duration Semi-Gloss which is a more standard latex based trim paint that we also use all the time.
Of all the hybrid paints that I've used, Emerald Urethane is my current favorite. If you'd rather us a more standard latex trim paint then I'd go with Duration Semi-Gloss. Good luck with your project!
Can I use this on a wall? I want to do a black accent wall and the color I want doesnt come in the Emerald Designer line that I used for the rest of the room.
You can use it on a wall, that just may be overkill for an accent wall, but that's completely up to you. You could likely get the color you're after in the regular Emerald wall pain in an ultra deep base. That's what I would look into before trying to use the urethane on a wall.
Good luck with your project!
@Practical Painting Great thanks! The color I want doesn't come in the Emerald Deisgner Line or Cashmere line. Boo hoo. I went with another color in the cashmere line. Let see how this goes.
No oil primer before coating interests me on wood trim/ cabinets
It depends on what you're going over, but we've experienced good results by going straight over stuff that we would typically have to prime. If you have adhesion issues, generally you'll notice fairly quickly as the paint pools up.
So what white would you pair with Kilim Beige?
Extra white or the base white in emerald urethane is also good
So if some trim is oil based and others are water-based, i can literally just spray this product or roll it and that's it ? No sanding or priming the oil based??
It depends. A lot of the time you can get away with what you’re describing, but it’s usually a good idea to do a test spot and see if you’re getting good adhesion. Depending on the state of the oil based trim you may have to sand it or use an oil primer to guarantee solid adhesion.
Can you put it directly over oil or water based paint?
You can put it over both oil and water based paints. If the old paint is super shiny then I'd recommend sanding it with 150 grit sandpaper to scuff it up a bit. You can also use a de-glosser if you're familiar with that.
I notice the 40% off coupon for 9/29/2022 Emerald Paint excludes the Trim paint. Is this common?
Sherwin Williams is always running weird sales. Don't even get me started on their pricing structure. It is common for them to run sales and exclude certain products. Emerald Urethane may go on sale at some point, but it is a more premium product which means they generally don't discount it much.
@@SuperVassarBrothers So although the coupon says excluded Emerald Trim paint , the discount was taken off and then the store took another 10% off. Go Figure.
I also use SW Emerald urethane semi-gloss for trim. I'm not a professional painter, I just own some rental properties. I don't get a contractor's discount, but I pay only $70/gallon in Austin TX. $95/gallon seems too high. By the way, why are you down on SW Pro-Classic? I used it for years, but it seems to have gotten worse (more difficult to work with) in the last few years, so I stopped using it.
I love this paint! We are in the process of painting a new build and are using this on the soffits and facia boards as well as all the trim. It sprays on beautifully and my painter loves it! However, we ran short on the paint and none of the SW Stores in our area (Tulsa, Ok) or surrounding cities have been able to get any of it for the past 3 weeks! Therefore we are at a standstill on finishing the paint as our house as well as getting the guttering installed!
The "retail" price of certain products is weird from Sherwin Williams. I'm glad you're getting it for $70.
I dislike pro-classic for a variety of reasons. One of which is what you mentioned, it tends to be a pain to work with. In my experience, the open time is super annoying. If you try to go back and touch something up it pulls and looks weird. It also gets gummy. Anyways, I could go on, but I'll stop there.
Thanks for watching!
That's a bummer! We've been running into supply issues as well. Hopefully it'll resolve itself soon and you'll be able to finish the painting 😁
So is it unnecessary to top with polyurethane if you’re using this for cabinets?
You are correct. The urethane is built into paint so you just need to let it cure all the way through before you start using your cabinets.
Good luck with your project!
emrald urathane is great until you get into the dark colors. It keeps this rubbery feel to it forever if you feel thats a downfall. 18 mths on my own trims and doors in iron ore. HOWEVER a GSD that likes to jump up and scratch at the door when were not home just leaves a slight marring. IF you roll it keep the roller super soaked and you can do a wet on wet 2ed coat for a typical gloss finish. If your looking for a "glass" like finish, let it dry for a cpl days. sand with 280-320 and roll with a foam/mohair roller. Even more glass like spray it. Another great a paint for trim/doors and cabinets without geting into 2k products is C2 cabinet and trim. I do recommend using their sandable primer first for the glass like finish.
Yes indeed. Many paints perform oddly in the deeper bases, but it sounds like you've got a good method for laying it down.
Happy painting!
Doing an alcohol as a final rinse on a brush doesn’t smell as bad still gotta be careful it’s flammable. Also use a small stainless steel brush.
I'll give that a try. I've found a decent amount of success with hand sanitizer as well.
How does this do for cabinets?
A lot of folks really like it for cabinets. It's going to give you a bit more durability than a traditional latex trim paint.
NEED ADVICE: Can I use the Emerald on trim that the previous owners painted with flat/eggshell green wall paint on top lip of the trim/molding ( will the Emerald adhere with a flat/ gloss on trim???) it is done that way throughout the entire house upstairs and downstairs. I don’t think they knew how to cut in the wall or they did it because it was faster to run the brush across the upper trim lip and they didn’t have to worry about boo-boos…
I just want to correct it as it looks unprofessional.
Also do you have a tips and tricks video on painting a ton of trim/wainscoting crown molding? I’m nervous of getting semi gloss trim paint on flat/eggshell wall paint…hmm….maybe that’s why the previous owners painted it that way!?!!!
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you for your time.
Hi again Tina. I'll see if I can help. Emerald Urethane can go over any surface so you are good to go there. For painting lots of trim / waincotting we mostly use brushes 2.5 " angled. We will use rollers for larger flat surfaces, sometimes 1/4 nap if we want it to look smooth. 3/8" is the highest nap we would go. You can try mini rollers if the 9 inch roller is too big. Also if you want to avoid getting in on walls, you can always tape. Good luck!
Does this have a rough feeling. Seem video that leaves a very rough surface when cured ?
That hasn’t been my experience. The finish quality has a lot to do with how you apply it and how you prepped the surface. Emerald Urethane levels out quite a bit a dries smooth.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you. Is it ok to use emerald regular wall paint in semigloss. For trim. Or should use the urethane ?
Definitely better than Advance .....
I know right. I'm working on my review of Advance right now. I get why people use it, but it's not my favorite.
Dry times between coats?
Depends on conditions. 2 hours is pretty typical
What do you think of fine paints of Europe?
I haven't used it, but heard nothing but good things. A painter friend of ours loves them.
Does it smell bad for weeks after you paint?
It definitely has an odor to it, but it's not bad in my opinion. The majority of the off gassing occurs within the first few hours of application. However, some folks are more sensitive to the smell than others.
is this good for cabinets?
Indeed it is. It’s a popular choice for folks that paint cabinets.
I HATE cleaning brushes so I found if I only dip the brush in about 2' or so I avoid troublesome cleaning.. I return to then paint more often but I avoid the cleaning and the brushes last longer. I use two or three brushes at a time - two soak in spirits while I use one. I clean them with a wire brush, have a beer, then go back to it. Longer lasting brushes and no paint throughout and up the bristles.
Jamie..... you have achieved paint enlightenment
How does SW Solo Enamel compare to Emerald Urethane?
Hi C.M.H. We only used Solo once a few years ago and we were not fans of it. We love the Emerald Urethane and were using it today on the job. Its a little hard to get right now due to shortages. Ben Moore Advance in Satin is our next choice. Good luck!
@@SuperVassarBrothers How does Benjamin Moore Scuff-X compare to Benjamin Moore Advance?
Would I need to prime on MDF? Also do you know what caulking works best with this?
I would recommend priming the MDF. We like the red label powerhouse caulk from Sherwin Williams. That's our go-to caulk.
@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks for the reply! I’m not sure what primer to use with this, what would you recommend?
So can you come back with latex on top of this?
If you mean cutting into it with wall paint then yes
Gotcha, I just meant if you currently have an oil base trim, paint over that with Emerald polyurethane trim, then later on can you come back on top of Emerald polyurethane with a latex?
can you use this product in spray gun?
Yes sir. We haven't sprayed with it, but plenty of other people have.
@@SuperVassarBrothers how come i cant get it in the uk no where 🤦🏻♂️
Brush conditioner works decent when they get stiffed up
I think I've got some somewhere. I really need to try some of that stuff again. I've been using a bit of dish soap while washing them out and that works pretty well too. Thanks for watching!
Does this paint spray well ? I have a Graco cordless spray gun, BTW I am not a Painter. Im a Carpenter - I have a hammer and everything 😁
We haven't sprayed this paint as we don't paint a lot of cabinets. I'm sure it does fine tho.
You can only get a smooth finish when you spray it
I guess I’ll stop brushing it
40% off emerald products until 10/10! Just got the email today.
Stock up!
1 problem, it’s close to $100 a gallon. If you have a contractors price like he does probably does, $55. Still not cheap. Consider if you have a big job, you will bed multiple cans of this. Cheers
Hi James. Yes, its crazy expensive for residential customers. Another option would be to use a good primer for the first coat (extreme bond primer) then use super paint semi gloss or Cashmere medium lustre for the trim which is much more economical
Why do you not like the ProClassic?
In my opinion it’s unpleasant to work with. You can’t cut back into it and I don’t like how it finishes. Emerald Urethane is my current jam for trim and doors.
With an intro like that, I'm surprised Sherwin-Williams hasn't approached you to buy the rights to it, that's a hella commercial in the making!
I know right? We currently have zero sponsors but we’ll see what happens 🤷♂️
@@SuperVassarBrothers Just thought I'd answer back... I'm a retired, professional kitchen remodeler. I told my wife, "I have one kitchen remodel left in me" (I'm 73), she laughed & said a 'makeover will do'... So, it's a new tile wall splash, epoxy-poured counter tops & HVLP spraying my oak cabinets with Zinsser BIN primer & SW Emerald Urethane SnowWhite Paint... If I had lived near you guys & were your age, you guys you have done all of our painting... my brother & I hated doing it, because we were so slow😂
if the paint has elements of oil in it yes you would need mineral spirits to clean it out.
That’s not quite true of the hybrids. I have found that water works well and then you can either use M1 cleaner or some dish soap.
Would have been nice to see more clips of the finish on surfaces so we can see the glossy finish
We’ve got some more videos coming where we use this product.
It's been out alot longer then a year
This video was from a while ago. What I said was true at the time that the video was published. Then time passes on and so forth.