Ender3 V2 upgrade: All metal hotend by Micro Swiss + Firmware edit to allow higher temperatures
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2024
- Stock Ender3 V2 nozzle temperature can be set to maximal 260°C. However, is not recommended to use it over 240°C. The reason is that end of the PTFE tube is in heat block and that high temperature is not good for the teflon for longer period. All metal hotend by Micro Swiss has teflon tube ending in heat sink, this means we are not limited with this problem. The Micro Swiss package will also arrive with hardened steel nozzle, so we can print abrasife filaments too (like Glow in dark or Carbon fiber filaments).
This new all metal hotend is able to 3D print on temperatures above 260°C. In second part of this video I edit and updated the firmware, so it can be set to higher temperatures. Since I couldn't find information about maximal operating temperatures for heater cartridge and termistor, I set the max temperature to 270°C so far.
List of my Ender3 V2 videos:
www.mytechfun.com/videos/ender3
Materials and methods:
All metal hotend by Micro Swiss:
store.micro-swiss.com/collect...
Ender 3 V2 by Creality
www.banggood.com/custlink/GGv...
Creality Enclosure:
www.banggood.com/custlink/3KK...
Filaments:
Gembird PLA and Prusa ASA
Software:
Creality Slicer (Cura),
Microsoft Visual Studio Code
code.visualstudio.com/
Marlin (on GitHub):
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin
Contents:
0:00 Introduction
0:21 About hotends
3:32 Unboxing
4:07 Assembling
15:40 3D printing PLA
17:09 3D printing ASA 260°C
20:14 About Firmware
21:03 Firmware editing
26:40 Firmware update
29:43 3D printing ASA 270°C
31:35 Conclusions
Support my work:
www.mytechfun.com/donation
Or just buy me a coffee:
buymeacoffee.com/mytechfun
or become a Patreon:
/ mytechfun
#ender3v2 #microswiss #ender3upgrade - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The way he describes every step is very detailed, love it
Oh man, great video and awesome channel. You just made me feel like getting back to my youtube channel.
I got an ender 3 pro and tomorrow my 32 bit silent board will arrive! So exciting! Keep up the great content, I look forward to watching more of your videos!
Igor you are a craftsman! Great tips and Best Practices while you are working on your subject in the video
Please keep giving us great videos!
Thanx for the nice video!
Your channel is great. Keep up the good work!
I am very anxious for the BLTouch video as I have already ordered the BLTouch and it is coming in the next week.
Awesome!! Great content as always! Can’t wait to see your BLTouch video. I have a BLTouch and need to install it along with Marlin to my CR-10S.
Igor, thank you so much for your contributions to our community.
I got everything installed on my own but then got an error. Your firmware walkthrough saved my butt. Thank you!!!
Thank you so much for this!!!! I love your channel. You always have great ideas and reviews. I bought some carbon fiber filament by accident and have been looking the past two weeks for something just like this. You sir are a legend.
Good video, especially good that you have paid attention to hot tightening the heat-break and the nozzle. One tip, though: if you wouldn't connect the teflon tube to the cool-end BEFORE you heated up the hotend for tightening, then you wouldn't have to worry about the fan not cooling the cool-end. As for the thermistor and the heater: I couldn't find the specs either, but neither this type of thermistor, nor this type of heating element can withstand more than 300C anyway, that would need a different component-housing technology. So I assume 270..280 is the safe max.
This was extremely helpful. Great details. Thanks!!!
Another great video. Add Octoprint with USB camera to see what’s going on inside the enclosure.
Massive help... big thanks! I 'whacked' it up to 300C on a new Ender 5 pro... watch carefully and then upgrade heater & thermistor when necessary! I'm only interested in Nylon/PC Carbon blends and 280C is probably the bare minimum so pushing the limits was always the aim. Subd!
tip to anyone who needs to find out the board version, you might be able to see the number between the slots in the cover so you dont have to take the cover off
Incredibly helpful. Thank you!!
Very well explained, thank you.
Thank you so much for this!!
Hi Igor. I love your channel. You get straight to the point and you come off as a Craftsman to me more than a 3D printing geek. As a Craftsman and engineer myself I appreciate that.
I'm really good at figuring things out myself but I've run into an issue I would like to run by you.
I have the Ender 3 V2. I'm using Jyers 1.3.5b modified for higher temps and manual mesh. I have a metallic extruder and micro Swiss hotend, and that's it.
I'm trying to print ASA and I'm having terrible layer adhesion at all temperatures, changing the z offset has had minimal benefits. I'm using the same temps you did in your direct drive video but. Bed leveling has never been an issue for me so I'm not even considering that. With my enclosure I have no problems getting my prints to stick either.
For my test pieces I'm using 20% infill. Maybe ASA likes more infill? More walls? I've only been printing for 2 months but I pick things up really quickly. I can print perfect dimensionally accurate prototypes (no toys) with all other materials. I'm using very high quality ASA too.
My settings in a nutshell
260 hotend temp
110 bed temp
20% infill
100 flow rate
0% fan
50 mm/s speed.
I'll check what my retraction rate is when I get home but I'm pretty sure it's close to yours.
Thank you for your time Igor!
Next things I would try if I would be on your place: - check esteps of extruder, try different material (other brand of ASA). Your layer adhesion is OK with PETG? Temp in enclosure should be approx 45C, don't open it during printing. Try additional wall around object to get even better layer adhesion (skirt size of object). Your settings looks ok.
@@MyTechFun Thank you Igor. My apologies for such a long post. However I feel like you are someone that can handle lots of data with ease. 👍
I will check the things you mentioned. Yes I do not open the enclosure (same one you have by the way). The couple times I had to I peeked through a small opening like you did.
PETG is fine.
Good to know the enclosure should be 45c. Now I have something to use my laser thermometer for.
I'll check the e-steps. That's something I haven't messed with since I started printing, still learning, so I will look into that.
When you say add an extra wall. Do you mean to the part itself, or like a tall skirt separate from the part? Like a wall around it to retain the heat?
@@dangerous8333 It's called draft shield. th-cam.com/video/wGUUgDxWLrs/w-d-xo.html And e-steps, any time you mess with extruder you have to check e-steps (is 100mm movement of the extruder real 100mm) But probably it is OK of you don't have problems with other filaments. Just check it. th-cam.com/video/fa7IflGJH2Y/w-d-xo.html
@@MyTechFun Edit: Sorry igor, I am incapable of writing a short post. I'm an info junkie!
I wanted to follow up with the outcome of my goal to print ASA.
I installed a CR touch so I could eliminate bed leveling as my issue. Solved a problem I was having where my extruder was binding and skipping occasionally. Finally figured out it was pinching the filament too tightly and was flattening it and leaving teeth marks before entering the Bowden tube. Based on your mentioning of e-steps I watched some videos and a gentleman with similar issues changed his e-steps from the default 93 to 106 on his Ender 3 V2 with the same metallic extruder made by creality. So I just switched mine to 106. I'll dial it in later.
I loaded up the ASA and the outcome was shocking. It printed a PERFECT 150mm handguard for my air rifle in ASA! A complex part and 7-hour print with Zero stringing and perfect layer adhesion.
I'm pretty confident it was a mixture between the extruder being too tight and the e-steps. I was printing the PETG before the extruder problem that's why I think there was no issue with it.
Thank you for your time Igor.
I just set up OctoPrint, which could fix your visibility problem by doing a timelapse or video. It took just about an hour and a half to install the Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint and mess around with settings. (Don't install any plugins until you run some long prints)
Great video I could see that your thermistor has PTFE tubes insulating the cables touching the heat block. You may need to upgrade to a cartridge type thermistor capable of withstanding 300+ degrees.
Any suggestion for the type? (if you have personal experience)
Thank you for this video. I'd just like to add that on a Mac computer for some reason when I completed the firmware updates using Visual Studio Code, The PIO folder was hidden. I tried it about 20 times and couldn't find the folder. I finally thought to look for hidden files in the Marlin folder and there it all was with about 20 copies of the firmware. I'm not sure I did it all correctly, because it still reads top temp of 260c, but the main thing was the files were hidden. Thanks
I just compiled also on a Mac, I used the finder to search for the files…still can’t find the files.
You made me laugh when you bleeped out after realizing your socket was too big to fit the nozzle when trying to remove it :)
Amazing videos!!! Is there going to be a Nylon Carbon Fiber toughness test in the near future?
Yes (but after I finish PLA, PETG and TPU brand comparison, like: th-cam.com/video/L9tNhfxs9BU/w-d-xo.html
for the 4.2.2 creality released a firm version with 300 degree temps and support automatic leveling.
also, I found out that the hardware version can also be found in the menu. Another interesting thing is auto-tune PID for hotend and for bed, also in the menu. I think this is a new thing, my firm is from 2021 and came with the printer few months ago.
couldn't find anyone talking about those 'new' features in the stock firmware
great stuff Igor, can we have more of your resin printer experiments please
Thanks. 2 resin tests are in progress. Siraya Tenacious vs ABS bolts. And Siraya mix test (Blu vs Tenacious vs 50-50% mix). But approx 4 videos has to be uploaded first, product reviews.
Thanks realy helpful :)
Really interesting and well made video as always!
How would you explain that despite the extruder is still connected to the hot-end by a long Bowden tube, the retraction can now be so much lower: almost the same as a direct drive?
The rectraction MUST be lower (not can be lower). I got good results, but this was good, dried pla. Probably with old PETG I would have much more problems. But even then, I have to keep the rectraction below 5mm.
@@MyTechFun oh, must instead!
Same question then: why? 😋
Is it because there's less risk of gap between the PTFE Bowden tube and the nozzle therefore a lower amount or droopy filament to pull up?
@@supercurioTube The filament slides a lot better in the tubing than in bare metal. Higher retractions in an all metal hot end can lead to too much friction.
@@supercurioTube multiple reasons. On one hand, in order to avoid heat-creep, especially at low printing speed. (The steel nozzle has much worse thermal properties than brass, hence the extrusion speed has to be decreased, too, due to the lower melt-rates possible.). On the other hand, all-metal hotends are notoriously clogging-prone with PLA, since PLA sticks to metals very well. Hence, you want to avoid retracting semi-molted PLA filament into the cold-zone to avoid sticking the filament to the cold metal wall of the bore. Consequently, if you mostly print PLA, then you must stick to the stock hotend with its teflon-coated heatbreak.
@ ohh that makes a lot of sense, thanks a lot for the explanation.
Then I guess that from these parameters, if you still want to print PLA with an all metal hot-end it would preferably be with a direct drive extruder for a more precise retraction control.
I have a bl touch and use the 5x5 firmware. New hotend installed, changing and compiling new firmware ok, but what about bl touch?
Great video. You mentioned upgrading firmware to support bl touch after it's installation. Will that reset the nozzle temp max? Will you have to compile code again?
Probably I will show 2 methods. 1) for those who have BL but standard hotend (just download bin from creality) 2) Compile new firmware for BL and hi-temp
@@MyTechFun Looking forward to your recommendations regarding firmware/software changes! Thanks for your efforts!
Very interesting, thanks. I'm just curious but is your menu on the dash showing some strange characters ?
At what time in video can you see those strange characters?
@@MyTechFun 30:08 to 30:10
it shows the menu# then a strange character then the text
Probado en 21/08/2021 funcional. Thanks for the video.
Pure beast 05
22:28 wow total comander that app was so awsome for me. Is when i got my first PC and using it was more easy.
is it possible to just send a gcode command to my ender 4.2.2 and BBTskrmini3v3 to change the max temp to get the sprite pro extruder up to max temp?
Awesome video. Where did you get that tool to help you cut the Bowden tube straight? what is it called?
It's my own (temporary) design, too simple to save it, but you can find a lot of solutions here: www.thingiverse.com/tag:ptfe_tube_cutter
thanks for the awsesome video. You put the temp at 270. Can I get a bimetal heartbreak and print at 280-300? will the thermistor go that high?
The info I got is that stock thermistor and heater shouldn't be used above 270-280°C. Not sure why, somebody wrote that thermistor also has teflon coating, maybe that's the reason(?)
@@MyTechFun I needed up getting a all metal hotend. So I am probably going to replace the thermistor. Any brands to recommend for US customers?
I have an Ender 3 v2 Neo. Would I follow the same steps in this video to raise my max temp? I do not want to mess up my machine messing with the firmware.
Any chance you can make a upload of your firmware for ender 3 V2 we've got the same motherboard so I can just stick it in and will work fine 🙏
holy hell did i get lost at the firmware editing.
If you DIY this it needs boron Nitrit Paste at the Sensor and heater tobmake full contact with the Block. If not it wint have 100% surface contact and could Perform worse than an original. This is by far the Case with 90% of the people coming to my repairshop.
That thermistor is rated for 300c in the datasheet
Is it possible to upgrade my V2 to reach 300deg tempt? I would like to use high tempt filament.
Please list the things I need, if it is possible. Thanks!
I really need help please someone.
After flashing the firmware and following all these steps, Using pronterface, I can see that all my firmware changes were flashed and saved (I changed the esteps to see if there is a difference and there was), only the max temp didn't change (i tried 280-300). Ive got exact same set up as in the video.
Great video!! I have the same all metal hotend on Ender3 V2. Any idea why there's a lot of material build up on the nozzle when i print PETG? Nozzle is not leaking i've confirmed. My E-Steps are accurate as well. I tried under-extruding by changing the multiplier to 0.94. I've also tried increasing the gap between my nozzle and the bed. no luck so far. Eventually the build up clogs the nozzle in 25-30 mins after cleaning it. Any idea how can i resolve it?
PETG is more sensitive to moisture. This can result more stringing and oozing. Try to dry the filament.
Helli i have ender 3v2 neo and i have all metal hotend..i set to clicer 260 but when i send to the printer it made it 250 celcius..it is locked to 250?how can i unlock it?
please make a video for 360-400C upgrade
doesn't complete error saying st32 string is no good the one you said to enter?
Hello, Igor
I have the jyers firmware how can I do the same thing you did to raise the temperature. I have tried but I get a error message when it finishes to compile.
Great videos and thank you
I also use jyers fw, but it works to me
Why did you change all of the heater temperatures and not just heater 0? Do all the heaters come together to control the hot end? 24:30 also, if I change the heating cartridge do I need to specify it on the firmware or does a change in hardware only need firmware changes when dealing with the thermistor?
Just in case, if somebody already changed the heater number. Depend of the heating cartridge if they requires firmware changes. Buy a stock one, then you don't need to change it. But PID tuning is recommended.
mac user: getting to 25:32 "let's find our file..." where is the new firmware file located/saved to? It seems to be non-existent
"Total Commander *NOT REGISTERED* XD Your opinions on 7zip?
Yep. Total commander I am using mostly only when screen recording for YT, it is clear to show if I copy something from one side to other. Not worth for registration to me, since I am using it very rarely.
I did everything but I can't get the firmware to update the max temp... I have a Neptune 2s with a Creality Spider hot end. Can you help please???
Does anyone have a link to the Bin file? Every time i try to configure it errors and wont conpile. I need my printer to lrint at 300c
Thanks for your very detailed video. When trying to compile the file I am getting a failed report with a lot of errors. My stock Ender 3 V2 has a 4.2.2 board, is there anywhere I can download a pre compiled file?
creality.com (support, downloads) or try jyers fw, there are several versions (but limited to 260°C)
i have a neptune 2s i cant get the firm ware to accept the max temp of 275... i followed all your steps but im stumped could you help please ??? i only upgraded the hot end to a creality spider
hi my friend , if is possible to make a video about increase temperature more than 270 c. , step by step , with all details , changing something in the firmware, not only hardware parts . thanks see ya .....
Temperature over 270°C: in Marlin instead 285 (shown in video) go with higher values, BUT you will need new heating cartridge and thermistor for those higher temperatures. Stock heater and sensor are not recommended to use on 280°C or more.
Do you think you will upgrade the thermistor and heater cartridge to a 50W one eventually?
It is in my "to do" list, but not sure when. I would like to use this hotend on higher temperatures too (above 207C) (but 50W is maybe too much)
I am having a hell of a time doing this but I will explain why. I have the Micro Swiss Direct Drive and Micro Swiss Hot End. All of the source code I download from Marlin is easily editable including Jyers. The problem is none of the source code has bed leveling enabled. How do I fix this on Marlin 1.3.5?
I am not familiar with 1.3.5 Marlin, but this video may help, Marlin edited there (enabling the BL touch): from 21:27 th-cam.com/video/7ZKg5u1pia4/w-d-xo.html
Have you tried jyers firmware for your ender3v2 ...its awesome and makes things simple plus saves to eprom and not 2 sd card ....just a recommendation
Yes, Few months later I moved to Jyers firmware, it's great.
How come there isn’t bin files already compiled for the Ender 3v2 with a micro Swiss hotend with higher temps that are preconfigured? Could you upload your .bin file? Thank you.
Because there are so many variations, different mainboard, bl touch, filament runout sensor etc. Best if you download latest jyers source and compile yourself
How likely is it that the stock thermistor and heater cartridge can't physically go to ~300C? What replacements, if any, would you recommend? And if it requires a replacement cartridge/heater - assuming you switch to an all metal hot end and edit the firmware - is there anything else that would prevent you from printing at the temperatures needed to print Nylon?
I got the information, that max temperature is 280C, but better to stay below this limit, that's why I changed max temp to 270C. I didn't do this upgrade yet, but search for HT thermistor and heating cartridge. And for nylon you need enclosure, filament dryer, glue stick for better adhesion
@@MyTechFun I'm also interested in seeing a video of installing upgraded heater cartridge/thermistor to an ender printer. I want to print polycarbonate but temps above 260° C are not recommended even with the all metal hotend because the stock thermistor insulation is PTFE and will offgas poisonous fumes.
@@rileyneufeld7001 I have an Ender 3 pro too with the 4.2.2 board, all metal hotend, but stock thermistor and heater. I set the values in the firmware to 320c but around 300c I get a max temperature error. I found that the max value I can set my print temps to in practice is 294c, above that there's enough fluctuation to hit the limit and get the error message that prompts you to shut the printer down. From what I've read it seems that I need a thermistor that can handle higher temps and that should fix this, but yeah, as long as you don't have the ptfe tube going into the heater block you can reliably run 290c on everything else stock.
@@rattila13 Oof thats VERY hot for the stock thermistor which is only rated to 260°C... I'd be very weary about running a printer like that, could damage the thermistor and get false readings and have a very bad day... The stock 40w heater can melt through the aluminum heatblock if it's not getting proper readings. That's not even talking about the PTFE off-gassing likely dangerous fumes either. I want to just get to around 270-275°C but I'll just save up and get an all metal hotend and a gulf coast hex thermistor that's actually rated to 300°C. No need to cheap out on parts when your health and safety is at risk.
@@rileyneufeld7001 I've got an all metal hotend so I'm not worried about ptfe off gassing, also aluminum melts well well above 600c, and I have thermal runaway protection enabled in case the thermistor shits the bed. I ordered a new thermistor that should be good up to about 450c, until then I'll be printing lower temp nylons.
did you try contacting original manufacturer of termistor and ask them about max termistor temperature ? have fun, s love nia
Yes, I tried. No answere. From another source I found max 280C but it is very unaccurate on that temperature (the thermistor). So if above 270C, you need new heating element and sensor.
@@MyTechFun i wonder which thermistor and heating element would be best for this v2.
How to configure the firmware to also include my bltouch? And I compiled on my Mac, but the new .bin file is nowhere to be found..??
Sorry I am not familiar with Mac. The firmware I also modified when added bl touch. But I would suggest, use the Jyers source for bl touch and only modify the temperature. That's what I am using now.
this is works for cr 10 v 3?
You need the direct drive unit too
Something like this? th-cam.com/video/fa7IflGJH2Y/w-d-xo.html
I did everything step by step by watching your video. I paused it many times and tried to match the screen shots with yours and I get errors every time, I even made sure to download the same versions of firmware you are using in the video. I am trying to get my temps to 500 degrees C and a bed temp of 180 degrees C so I can use the PEEK filament. I have the Ender 3 v2 with the Spider hot end and the upgraded bed heater, can you help me with the bin file so my temps can reach that?
Try to modify Jyers firmware, that's what I use now. Only changed lines are temperatures. About PEEK, you probably know that you need new heating cartridge, thermistor, heating element. And probably heated enclosure with water colling steppers, hotend..
You should let the part cool gradually. Opening the hood just after the print is completed creates unencessary stress to the filament and thus the part is not strong as it could be. Wait until the chamber naturally cools down, before opening it.
So, you have modified the temperature in your firmware to 285 degrees but i see that you still at 270 degrees for maximum temperature of the hotend.
How so ?
I just modified the default values, I raised them by 10°C. I know, next question is, why are those default values 275 and not 260 in source code? Not sure, but above this temperature the heater will be switched off. Probably there is 15C operating temperature difference (heating cartridge is turned on/off, it cannot be set to lower heating value).
This is only in interface, and it's always 15 C less than what is specified in firmware (Marlin).
However, you can use M104 / M109 command in GCODE file, or send it to printer from comp or OctoPi, to set and reach 275C, or even higher temps, if you raise MAXTEMP in firmware (that hot-end can probably reach 300C).
@@Sleepery22 so you mean i can set temperature to 275 in the Gcode on the stock firmware?
@@amarzzata I don't know what's the MAXTEMP on default stock Ender (it's 275C for CR10).
However, if it is 275C or if you update it in firmware as Igor did, you will be able to set it GCODE, but interface will always show you -15C (=260C).
For example: on my CR10, MAXTEMP is set to 450C, which I can reach through GCODE/OctoPi, but on printer interface, it will go to 435C only. So it's always -15C.
I have a bl touch sensor
Can i make this update with out having problems?
I have a video with BLTouch. I added it after this hotend upgrade. I had no problems. Check that video too. th-cam.com/video/7ZKg5u1pia4/w-d-xo.html
@@MyTechFun ok thanks
I did firmware update, same as on video but after compiling give an errors... Can you share your bin file ?
bin file depends of several things. But in the meantime I moved to Jyers firmware. Try their source, I just changed the lines there temperatures are (CR-Touch, DDrive , 4.2.2 board version)
I have ender 3 pro, could I apply similar step in firmware update? Is there a simpler way to do it?
Ender3 pro with old mainboards don't have the bootloader, so the procedure is different.
I keep getting "The terminal process failed to launch: Path to shell executable "c:\Users\18324\OneDrive\Desktop\CREALITY SOFTWARE\Marlin-2.0.x\platformio.exe" does not exist.
Terminal will be reused by tasks, press any key to close it."
What firmware to use ... I want to install CR touch as well as micro swiss hot end on my ender 3 V2 (4.2.2 board) kindly send a video link too
Now I moved to Jyers firmware, only thing I changed in source is max temperature as shown in video
@@MyTechFun it means CR touch works with this firmware.
@@MyTechFun Great!
Hey, My Tech Fun, loved your video. However, when going through the steps of changing things in the config file, I kept getting errors when changing the 'false' statement for 'Z_MIN_PROBE_ENSTOP_INVERTING' to true. The error statement stated that I MUST keep the statement as false. Will it matter that that much, or at all, if I'm unable to change this line of code? Thanks
EDIT: below is the exact error code that MS Studio gave me...
buildroot/share/PlatformIO/scripts/../../../../Marlin/src/inc/Conditionals_LCD.h:743:6: error: #error "BLTOUCH requires Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING set to false. Please update your Configuration.h file."
743 | #error "BLTOUCH requires Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING set to false. Please update your Configuration.h file."
Thank you for the info. In the meantime I moved to Jyers firmware..
i get this error message when i try to compile it Error: Build environment 'STM32F103RET6_creality' is incompatible with BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB. Use one of these: mega2560, mega1280
Any one knows what this is :Settings Stored (698 bytes; crc 6398) it doesnt save the same anymore
aynone getting "#error "FAN_SOFT_PWM is required. Enable it to continue." when compiling?
detail: cannot call non-constexpr function "strstr" (declared at line 48 of "C:\USERS\...\.PLATFORMIO\PACKAGES\TOOLCHAIN-GCCARMNONEEABI\ARM-NONE-EABI\INCLUDE\string.h")
Solutions?
Solved. Just comment/disable the problem lines an recompile. Printed at 285 a while ago now.
Why are you flashing the board of the screen? What's the difference between the Ender 3 v1?
From Ender3 V1 ? Yes, it is different. On E3V1 there is no screen flashing
After 25:30, I do not have a .pio folder anywhere to find my firmware file. What am I doing wrong? I am on a mac.
Oh, sorry, I am not familiar with mac :-(
If anyone is having this same problem on a Mac, simply click on the .pio dropdown on the left of the VS Code screen, in that dropdown, click on:
build
STM32F103RET6_creality_maple
right click on the "Firmware". bin file and select show in finder.
You can then proceed with the steps. I didn't know why I never thought to do that but oh well.
Just remembered what video to post these instructions to as well.
someone said the MicroSwiss is sticky for PLA?
I don't have that experience. Mine is fine, I am using it since I published the video, almost a year now
Wait.....Pause @1:03 Wouldn't it be just as easy and or CHEAPER to get a tube the size of the PTFE Tube that will fill the area that this expensive "all metal" hot end does? Shove it in and leave an area above it as shown in the image @2:05. This doesn't sound too difficult for someone with access to cutting and machining precision tubes. I'd rather pay a few bucks for a tube to fix a pro0blem that I don't have.
Hm. Good thinking, not sure why they don't use this, maybe the thermal expansion would be different or friction of the metal is bigger..
Isn't the point of the heatbreak that it has low thermal conductivity and prevents the filament further up from melting? If you shove in there some metal pipe it won't stop heat from melting the filament way too soon. Heat creep or whatever they call it. Just what I've read in other people's comments. I don't really know anything, but it doesn't sound like a good idea.
Can u edit the firmware on the Ender 3 V1?
Yes, but it is not so simple as on V2. You need additional hardware too (a boot loader).
Could I put PLA in allmetal hot end?
Yes, but print it on normal temperature (200-210C)
I'm still completely lost on the firmware.
This is very old solution, but one great solution nowadays is moving to Klipper. BTT Pad7 is more opened but Creality Sonic pad is much easier to setup.
@@MyTechFun Thanks. I'll look into it. I got lucky and found that Creality has the bin file on their website already set up for 300C (for the Spider hotend). I think I can just throw that on a Micro SD card and load it on the printer to update it to 300C. I'm not sure if that is the MAX of 300c or if that will allow higher temperatures than that though... because the Spider hotend should be able to get up to 500c as far as I know. I'll probably never print above that and would prefer 300max, so it can't be set any higher on accident... but at the same time, I would like to have the option to print at 450-500c if I ever have to.
999 :)
Please never use a retractable blade with it fully exposed. Only use what is needed.