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Help Me Choose my Jeep YJ Front Locker!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2022
- Its time to change things up with the Jeep YJ Front Locker situation so Im asking for your opinion on how I should Lock my Dana 44 Front axle. Its from a 78-79 F250, The axle I really want comes from those same 2 years of f350, the holy grail High Pinion Dana 60 kingpin.
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Hook up with Fab Rat, make video for the best upgraded King Pin you could have.
Well that would be fun and all, I doubt they have the time of day for me and my tiny channel😅
Good info. Recommend more focus, stick to the topic.
Hands down the dana 60 and a full spool. Full spools are very affordable as well. I got my yukon for under 150$.You'll never find a locker as reliable or as strong and you can't beat a free dana 60 to build. Honestly you'll be more than fine with some ECGS chromolys shafts as well. That 44 is just a ticking bomb once you get more traction, bigger and grippier tires.
I have been looking for a 78/79 Dana 60 for 2 years. I gave up and just purchased a 2012 F350 SD D60 front axle and will be going with an ARB front locker. The rear is a ribbed body 14 bolt with a Detroit locker.
The red "pro" cans of brake cleaner from O'Reilly's are the shit, they hold about 3x the brake cleaner of the regular cans and that shit just dissolves grease and carbon buildup.
Team red lol! I didnt want to deal with outboarding the springs with the super duty axles but they were on my radar back when I picked up the 19778 44/60 combo.
Can't really give an advice here, but will be happy to see what you get. 👍
Oh damm, I am 9 months too late. I would have suggested a Lincoln locker, given on what I see here on this channel. It would have been fitting.
Haha lol. That would have already been done if it was a standard open carrier. Technically I could still Lincoln lock the Yukon Dura grip that’s in there but that would be kind of a waste. I actually see they have a spring upgrade that makes it grab harder. 800 pound versus 400 pound that comes in it.
I don’t think I will get my Dana 60 swapped in before the trip I have planned so I have to fix this 44 up a little bit anyway still
@@FlawedOffroad Watching you got me in the mood to take my Jeep up to Colorado. I am down in Texas, very limited places to go where I am at. Maybe when my Son gets home from dealing with the border I might take off.
What size tires? If 37's / 38's then stick with 44 that's a great axle. 44 gives you clearance and get a selectable locker for when you need to be locked up. If going 40's, then one ton's all the way.
currently 37s but the future plans include either 38's or 39.5s, whichever one comes back in stock first lol
I vote Option 4....Oh yeah go for it!!
I daily my 60 with a grizzly and warn lockouts.
94 YJ PSC hydro, ball joints deletes, Artec hi steer. Heims. Quite solid I’ll do 75 and go dead straight
I'm building a Dana 44 for the front of my lj. Hit me up when you want to sell yours.
I don't know if you've made up your mind since, but if you're running a true 37, with the way that it looks like you wheel, I would stay with the 44 for the reasons you stated. You can keep that 44 alive. Its going to be $$$$ to get that 60 built. RCVs in the front are warranteed up to a 40" tire so there's even room for growth. I have the 38s on my 44 and have been running stock shafts this whole time. Just got my RCVs so it will be nice having that peace of mind. I say detroit/grizzly up front with RCVs and call it good for now! 👍🏻
I’m still workin out my plans. I think I can get enough from selling the 44 with all the upgrades to pay for most of the goodies for the 60. My girlfriend said she’s going to tell her dad I’m taking that 60 whether he likes it or not lol. We shall see how that shakes out😅
@@FlawedOffroad getting I'll it for free will definitely sweeten the deal! People want $2000+ for a junkyard axle in my area
Get the 60. I went through the same process you are going through. I got the deal I wanted on the 60 and the factory shafts are just as strong or stronger than the 44 chromos plus you get stronger u joints.You can keep those shafts, install a selectable with the 30 splines and be pretty well off unless you’re really set on having 35 spline. Either way use the 60 just for the u joints.
However, dirt lifestyle uses 44s front and back abs he says he does well in his diesel swapped TJ
Its funny you say that, go check out what I dragged home yesterday on my instagram
Buy the cheaper spool for now and work on that 60. Your hydro assist will make your steering concerns go away.
I’m with Jamie! Grizzly
Part out the Rubicon, but keep the transfer case for the YJ. Get the D60 and sell the D44.
With a stock motor I would stick with the 44. You would be surprised with what they handle. I had a 79 Ford Bronco with a 464 cid motor in it and it held up. It was a mud truck that I beat the shit out of. With your 44 my thought is do you have a good means of airing up. If not then an ARB would be nice then you have an air compressor with you. If you don’t need a compressor then I would get a OX locker. You are already familiar with them and only need trail repair parts for only one system not 2. In case you damage a airline or cable out on the trail.
I have a compressor and already have the air shift kit on my Rear Ox locker
I have a feeling the only reason I havent broken a shaft so far on the 44 is due to it not being locked
@@FlawedOffroad I thought you were running the cable system on your OX. My 44 under my bronco held up surprisingly well. But that was mud. I feel mud is a little bit more for giving than rocks
@@rickickler3819 nope it’s not that much more for the air shift so I did that from the start. Every shaft I’ve ever broken has came when my steering was in a bind. A few were in muddy gulches where the steering bound up. I have footage of a few places Ive come down hard on one tire and if it was locked I could see it breaking vs slipping it does now. I did a video from Moab rim, top of z turn is one example
@@FlawedOffroad I think it all depends on how deep your pockets are😀
KP60, weld the spiders for the time being and find a selectable carrier later on! 35 spline outers with the Yukon lockouts. KP60 is just as strong as D44 with 30 splines... Selectable is always the way to go, however, I'm a firm believer in "use what you've got till it's gone or broke, then upgrade."
So far the 44 has been fine, just tryin to plan for the future. Hard to justify the cost on the 44 but then again look how much workin can I’ve done to the 44, such as the homemade truss
I was thinking about getting that Yukon limited slip for my front now see your video I will not
Better suited for a rear application
I want a front locker for my 92' YJ Sahara. I want to be able to turn it off.
If u have the money go with the dana 60.
I spent around 3k to build my 79 kingpin 60 with all new parts air locker,gear,high steer kit, bearing and seal....
It’s just a matter of talking the grumpy old man to let me take it haha
Didn't go through all the comments, but I only buy the non chlorinated brake cleaner cause the chlorinated can be super dangerous if you ever use it to clean stuff before you weld. The heat and the argon will react with the chlorine and can make phosgene. Probably best to not use brake cleaner to clean that stuff, but at the same time if there's no chlorine there's no risk of phosgene...
I don’t even trust any brake clean if I’m welding I just use acetone or something else
@@FlawedOffroad yeah man some scary stuff. Love the build though, I'm at a wheelable state with my yj, got it on d60's and 40's so far, lots more work to do though
Lunch box locker while you build the dana 60.
Leaning towards spool cause I don’t have an open carrier to stick a lunchbox in
depends on what you're doing with the rig and how you wheel. IMO the thing nobody talks about with front 60s is they're way heavier than a 44, even the HD thick boi 44s from the f250s. If you're not going bigger than 40s and can wheel without the throttle on the carpet, id stay 44 and go RCV/locker. the RCV's for the 44 are 30 spline inner and outer, if you already have the warn hubs you can just get the drive hub inside the locker to change from a standard 19 to 30 spline.
if you're the yeeyee rock bouncer type, go for a 05+ superduty super 60 (yes, super 60 from an f450-550), the supers have bigger tubes than even the regular superduty 60s and have gigantic 1550 wheel joints (normal 60s have 1480 wheel joints)
i thought about the rcv in the 44 but I have different hubs/lockouts plus a brand new spare set so id have to buy the warns and eat the 2 sets I have. Its still up in the air. I dont really care about weight especially unsprung low to the ground weight, that just equals stability
@@FlawedOffroad sprung or unsprung, the weight is still trying to keep you in the lowest point of whatever obstacle youre trying to wheel over. Dont have warn premiums already?
I have mile marker hubs. I get what you mean to an extent on the weight but at the same time theres a reason crawlers and buggies add water in their tires, to keep tires planted on crazy obstacles. While I wont be adding water any time soon im not worries about an extra 100 LBS or whatever on the axle itself. you couldnt pay me to add 100 lbs on top of my jeep like a tent though
@@FlawedOffroad water in the wheels does more than just add weight, it forces more of the tire to contour to the ossicles more depending on how high the waterline is in the tire.
the old 60s are nearly 300lbs heavier than a 44, the superduty 60s even more
Tough call. Aside from the obvious dilemma, keeping the 44 or building the 60, the one thing I would not do is put a lunchbox in the 44 or put a spool in the front of any axle, but that's just me. I'd go Ox or Elocker. But then the 60 would need a locker, too. More $$. You can always pick up the 60 now for cheap and hold on to it until time/$$ allows?
I ran my jeep that way for years and it’s not that bad. It is a little annoying on the trail. Having the lockouts makes it not affect street driving.
@@FlawedOffroad True, street manners not an issue w/lockouts. I just like the selectable option on the trail.
@@wrm3016 yeah me too it’s just a lot of $ for it when i may or may not be getting that 60 eventually
get the dana 60
Dan… I would go D60 and be done with it. The 77.5-79 Ford D60 is harder and harder to find these days. You can sell your built D44 for good money and be a lot happy a year from now when you aren’t eating stub shafts, long side shaft and U-joints on the D44.
Ive been keeping an eye out for one for years, almost crapped myself when I stumbled on the one at the farm. Just need to work out a deal on it..
Hey just purchased my first 1995 yj rio grand , and im new into the plat form. What are common for rear diff lockers options and what did you say you used?
I would like to start with the rear only first
I have an Ox locker in the rear.
I’m gonna be honest with you. These Jeeps came with a Dana 35 rear axle that is absolute garbage and I don’t recommend putting a locker in it. They are weak and it will break if you offroad it. I would look into the ford 8.8 axle swap, super easy, cheap and probably 2x stronger. As to what locker, you have to decide between selectable or full time/auto locker first
I have the same model, first ditch the Dana 35 and get a Ford 8.8 out of a Explorer. You can run 35s or smaller without any issues. I went with an Air-locker cause I've used them in my ZJ and I like having onboard air. But an E-locker is cool or OX, one run runs on 12v and the other is a physical cable for actuation.
Hey there man, I was watching your video from about a month ago. When you were talking about your front axle ,.
Here is a question for you,
Do you know what the condition of the clutches are in your current axle, ? And also the condition of the clutch springs?
Because it looked to me on your video like it was working like the clutches may just be worn out.
I have had a few limited slip differentials and have seen the difference between a fresh one and a worn out one. And yours was looking pretty worn out.
If you are on a budget maybe just consider replacing the clutches and maybe the springs also. For some extra traction you could install kevlar clutches.
How about maybe just take it apart and inspect everything. That wouldn't really cost you anything except some time and bit of labor,
Then you will know what you have to work with before you spend any money. And if you rebuild those clutches you can replace your leaking seals at the same time.
Tim from Wisconsin.
So it’s a Yukon lim slip that’s barely a year old, it was like that on the first trip out last august. (Smorr and there’s videos)Part of it is the fact my wheel/tire weighs 154lbs each (I have several videos on those as well)
Don’t get me wrong it does grab ok, but not when one tire is loaded up on a ledge and the other is on top. It’s too much to overcome. I often drag the brakes when trying to crawl to keep them both spinning.
I like limited slips but to be they are better suited to rear diffs(my old setup on stock axles was locker in front and lim slip rear 8.8 and honestly it had better traction/crawling than my current setup.)
@@FlawedOffroad maybe you should consider getting some better and lighter wheels and tires.
That could why there was so much sludge in your diff, because all the heavy weight is burning up your clutches.
Heck man the wheels I had on my 3/4 ton Dodge work truck only weighed a 100 pounds , and it is a Dana 60 in front and 70 in rear.
You are probably over stressing several things, like axle shafts , u joints, transfer case components, and even your brakes.
What size wheels and tires are those,. And what gear ratio do you have? . I don't remember you saying in your video.
@@FlawedOffroad
Casey 250 on TH-cam has a good informative video about tire a wheel weight from some research that he did, that is pretty interesting.
I see why you’re on the fence, but since it’s your money and not mine. Go with the Dana 60
I buy cases of johnsens brake parts cleaner off amazon. usually 96 cans at a time. I've never had any good experience with the duragrip, yukon has a very good marketing team, and they will try to sell you that diff anytime you ask for any parts for anything else. their sales guys must get a big kick back.
If it was me, id probably snag that kingpin 60 and build it over time. you can get a grizzly locker and chromo axles from ECGS for like 1500. the high steer stuff and kingpin rebuild parts really arent that expensive. just make sure if its a 60 or a 61 because they require different processes.... medium/ long term,... just throw a grizzly or a detroit into it. for the price vs an open carrier and a spartan it comes out in the wash, and you get much more strength. spool in the front is a PITA it makes it impossible to turn in most situations. its sort of a tough call though, building and setting up another axle is expensive and time consuming, but for short term, might as well just get the open carrier and a spartan for it for now, and aim big in the long run. I have 3 kp axles in my pile out back, too bad ur so far away lol
That sounds expensive
@@FlawedOffroad I sent you some links on messenger
Just curious if I fully locked my 92 YJs front axle with the vacuum disconnect fully operational, would it be rough steering around corners when the axle disconnected on one side?
as long as your cad is still operational then it will steer fine and you wont feel it.(think 2wd on the street)(it will steer a little rough in 4wd on trails or if you use that in winter/snow and front end will push) I used to have a lunchbox locker which is basically full time, you would never know it was there when I had cad, when I permalocked the cad then it would click and stuff like lunchbox lockers do.
@@FlawedOffroad perfect, what I was hoping for man. . I was thinking about going with a lunchbox locker as well or just weld it in, while I save for Dana 60 like you
@@NickSlingerland-yd8hy if you’re confident in your welding ability just save the money and do that. If it was a rear I’d say get the lunchbox cuz it can ratchet around corners when you’re not on the gas but the front rarely ratchets in corners cuz usually in 4wd you’re on the gas a little when turning. Good luck! Btw work is going to resume fairly soon on my Dana 60, I’ve just been so busy and didn’t want the Jeep down during wheeling season
@@FlawedOffroad for sure, can't wait to see it. Appreciate you and the content. These old clunkers are going to be on the road for a while
Can ya really go wrong with the KP60?
You don't need a locker, you live in Iowa. Spend the time on improving driver skill. Put the locker money in the gas tank to improve driver skill.
Spoken like a true Kyle
60
Its a trail toy, not you. You can build the 60 as your budget allows.
Throw a lunch box in the 44 for now.
Since I have the Yukon lim slip I can’t just throw a lunch box in it, I have to also buy an open carrier. At that point it would be cheaper to use a spool.