For anyone about to do this, no need to splice anything. Just cut the one coming from the drivers side just long enough to reach the battery on that side. And cut the other one right at the plug near the battery, reGround it and you’re good to go. Appreciate the video definitely fixed the problem and didn’t even have to splice anything 👍🏻
@@CaseyDevillier yes it drove from 336k to 365k issue completely gone… transmission just went out tho, nothing to do with this I just drove the truck really hard. Putting a built trans in it gonna see how far it’ll go
@@mitchelllawrentz766 I don’t think so but I didn’t drive it fast like that. Drove it for like 3k miles with the surge and the trans took a shit after about 30k once i fixed it. Got a built roadripper in it now.
This absolutely took care of my 3-4 lock/unlock issue after 2 years of fighting the same battle. Thanks for this, wish I would have run across this sooner.
This does Touch on several possible issues i have encountered through the years on countless 2nd gens. Tried the shielding wire trick, flash computer, new parts, trans harness to bypass diode, etc. I have tried all these attempts over the years and it has always been ultimately traced back to a ground issue. The OD and LU solenoids aren't getting a sufficient ground. Most times battery cable connections and a dedicated ground from battery to the trans case will fix it. Good info though!
I'm having issues with my 96 3500 OD and lockup. Can you explain the dedicated ground from battery to tranny. Where should the wire go on tranny from battery. I know it's been a while since u posted but would appreciate any info. Thanks
What worked for me is very simple. Give it a shot all you guys what have this issue. I've tried all those little tricks, none of it really worked. What did the trick is completely rerouting that ground wire that he is taking about. Away from alternator and the block. I routed it over the top of the radiator right next to positive cable all the way too the battery. It is just long enough, you don't need to cut and extend it. Tru that first before cutting anything. If yall want me to make a video showing what I did, let me know. It's very simple, every 2nd gen cummins should do this.
would love to see your simple solution, and video as well, his video is confusing to me. he made it after his repair and i dont see it well. Showing a piece of wire that was removed and flopping everywhere , i dont get it
I just talked to a diesel mechanic that has been working for a dodge dealership for a long time. Yes this was a bad issue with 2nd gen automatic trucks. The wire plug in on that ground coming from ECM to PCM is the problem. He told me what’s happening is that the plug in gets hot and interferes with the pcm causing the torque converter to lock and unlock rapidly. He quaranteed by cutting out this plug and grounding each end of the wire to the batteries has and will fix the problem!!! He also said you can sotter the 2 wires together once the plug is removed. Either way works!!
Thank you!!! I’ve owned my 2001 for 5 years and tried several recommendations. I just eliminated those plugs and now on i10 tirando HUMO!!! THANKYOU again from AZ . PURO HD!!!
But this is a great video thank you. My trucks been doing the same thing for two years and I finally just bought the manual transmission. I’m over the automatic, but this is nice to know. Thank you.
Really good info, pretty clear, but i'm going to watch this several more times to fully understand the correct wires to cut and splice before i attempt it. Thank you
Thank you for your comment. Please let me know how it goes . If you have any questions, I'll help the best i can and get back to you . Hopefully, your truck is back to working 💪🏽 the way it should .
I just lost my dad a few days ago. Im trying to fix his dodge (2001) in order to haul our cattle and sheep to market. Had our current issue (not the one described here, tpps, and map sensor i think? Basically erratic acceleration..but problem keeps morphing on me... anyways) bring me here. I like your style! Ima sub! And check out what other wonderful bits of knowledge you have! My dad wouldve pissed about the transmission rebuild, but glad the issue got sorted! Wish i found your vid sooner! Ill definitely try this once i get my current issue figured out! Please make more vids on your dodge if you can; this my dads last truck, he bought it new. It was special to him as 1st he could ever get that way. So its special to me now! And i wanna treat it right!
Also, my uncle, used to be an electrician, and he was known for getting rid of superfluous nonsense in controls! (not in automotive field, DC magnet controllers and hydraulic control relays) so I can Respect removing nonsense!😅🫡
Dude. I just bought a 24v today. I started having this issue on my way home from buying it. I did not notice it on the test drive. I really thought I was about to have to rebuild my trans. I hope this will fix my issue. Thanks for the knowledge brother
I developed severe hunting especially in cruise control which would clear if I drove over 70 mph. Replaced the Governor Pressure Sensor 12415C and Governor Pressure Solenoid 12432A solved the problem. But still fighting the other minor hunting issue as it did not go away.. Relocated the ground wire that runs along the alternator did not help Installed the APPS Noise Isolator Dodge 5.9L 1994-2004 from BD Diesel did not solve the problem. Replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor) thinking there could be a dead spot in sensor did not help. Problem solved when I cleaned all the ground cables from the battery to the firewall. At that firewall point there is a ground strap that goes to the PCM. Cleaned all those eliminated the problem. They were all badly corroded. I have a 5.9 2002 2 wheel drive so I guess that would come as no surprise.
I just bought a 2002 24V a few months ago. Truck is great but having the same issue!!! I changed the throttle position sensor, no luck! Re routed the ground wire, no luck! I will try this and hopefully it fixes the problem!! The truck is a great truck hopefully this fixes this aggregating problem. Cause when it starts acting up it’s pretty much non drivable!
Yes. I rerouted the wire first. It didn’t fix the problem then today I cut the plug off of the ground and grounded each end separately and it didn’t fix the problem. Yes it only does it at 50 mph and over also sometimes it takes several miles of traveling before it starts doing it. Once it starts jerking back and forth my tachometer starts surging up and down. I know it’s not the transmission because I had it tested. Also I grounded the pcm that’s located on the firewall, to the battery as well.
Does it do it from a cold start or only after driving at temp for awhile. If it does it from cold your pcm may already be to damaged. Swap it out for a known good one as a test if possible.
14:15 i think the people that suggest running the ground to the battery in that situation, probably live up north. These dodges can rust bad! And grounding is sooo important! That i wouldnt really trust solely the frame work for it😅
Gonna try this tomorrow. My brand new converter is surging like crazy and driving me insane. Hopefully this does it tried everything else at this point 😂
Did you cut each 4 wires on the driver's side and plumb them all Into one wire and then ground it to the drivers side battery or did you cut it before it switches to 4 Individual wires then you just grounded the single line before it splits off into 4 lines into the drives side battery. That's what I'm confused about thanks.
how is your truck running afterward? I am currently having this problem and hopefully after my injection pump gets replaced for the second time it will stop the issue, It did it for the first time but shortly after a while it started again.
Yes indeed my truck did the same thing. It seems to be fine and then it would come back and do it again. But as of right now it's been working great haven't had the problem come back. Hopefully your is fixed after that .
Ill have to watch again but im pretty sure i did all these fixes and still does it. That big crimp splice on driver'side looked totally fine on mine after i opened it up. One other thing with my truck is scan tool wont connect. Tried snap on and OTC. Gets power but wont connect to computer.
Bd diesel isolator works like a beast 💪🏻🔥 i try this and no lucky for me men , i know that not means for others but in my case no works , i just receive the bd diesel apps isolator and that thing ojt my truck to work as a champ
I will have to try this my 24 valve I had new trans installed last week but still won’t go in to over drive nether did the old one nothing is working I will try this
Yes indeed I went through the same thing with my 24v and I know the feeling. Of have a new Transmission installed and driving for the first time and problem still there . Let me know how it went. And if you have any questions as answer and help the best I can. Hopefully take care of the problem.
@christianmeadows7581 it would only go in to next gear or over drive when I step on the Accelerator hard almost full throtale then it would grab gear. If not it would only be surging. I'll put up a video soon showing how it switches gears.
To be honest I haven't tired that . But just thinking I'd say no because it's a ground ac noise interference issues. I tried just about everything and since I did what I explained in the video haven't came back or given me any problems . Running strong . Hope this helps .
@@projectramlife819 look it up because guys are using it for the same reason and what it does is hooks up to the tps clip and you set where you want it to shift manually it tells it when to shift and I feel it’s the same thing because that comes from the module to the tps and that tells when to switch and with the issues the tps isn’t sending the right info to the module because it’s getting interference because of the alternator
I'm not 100% sure . I'm not that familiar with 12 v . But I'd think if the wiring is ran the same way and looks like the one in the video , I'd think it should work as well . I know that 12v don't have as much electronics it's more mechanical parts .
Hey man so I did this not sure If I did something wrong or if it's something else but my truck acts up untill it warms up like shifting is bs untill 10min after it warms up then it seems to run great what you think it can be and have a fix in mind ?
Yes, it's the wire that runs from the right side all the way to the left side behind the alternative. From the ecm, it comes out as 4 and then becomes 1 wire . You can splice from where it's 1 and from there on the right side conect to negative post on battery terminal. Hope this helps.
THAT'S EXACTLY MY TRUCK DOES,. IT DOES ONLY ON 60 MILES SO DO YOU THINK THAT'S COULD BE THE PROBLEM??,.MY DODGE RAM 3500/2001/5.9 CUMMINS 24 VALVES TURBO DIESEL MANUAL TRANSMISSION.
Or you could just do what I did and pull the stupid automatic transmission out and swap it over with an envy 4500 cured the problem got me is decent news transmission for four-wheel-drive for 2500 bucks. Problem solved.
Hey buddy , d you cut the wire that comes with to from the harness or how? I see that cable goes to the big bunch of cable harness on the top firewall and i see that cable has the 2 wires plus another black with a white line wire that goes together with those . Can you please share me your instagram or something to show you what im talking about please
For anyone about to do this, no need to splice anything. Just cut the one coming from the drivers side just long enough to reach the battery on that side. And cut the other one right at the plug near the battery, reGround it and you’re good to go. Appreciate the video definitely fixed the problem and didn’t even have to splice anything 👍🏻
Was this a total fix for your problem??
@@CaseyDevillier yes it drove from 336k to 365k issue completely gone… transmission just went out tho, nothing to do with this I just drove the truck really hard. Putting a built trans in it gonna see how far it’ll go
Did this issue cause your truck to not shift into overdrive at all? I got a 99 24 valve
@@mitchelllawrentz766 no just didn’t want to coast at any speed by the end of it but it started the surging at 45
@@mitchelllawrentz766 I don’t think so but I didn’t drive it fast like that. Drove it for like 3k miles with the surge and the trans took a shit after about 30k once i fixed it. Got a built roadripper in it now.
This absolutely took care of my 3-4 lock/unlock issue after 2 years of fighting the same battle. Thanks for this, wish I would have run across this sooner.
This does Touch on several possible issues i have encountered through the years on countless 2nd gens. Tried the shielding wire trick, flash computer, new parts, trans harness to bypass diode, etc. I have tried all these attempts over the years and it has always been ultimately traced back to a ground issue. The OD and LU solenoids aren't getting a sufficient ground. Most times battery cable connections and a dedicated ground from battery to the trans case will fix it. Good info though!
I'm having issues with my 96 3500 OD and lockup. Can you explain the dedicated ground from battery to tranny. Where should the wire go on tranny from battery. I know it's been a while since u posted but would appreciate any info. Thanks
@@burnheretic3950 are you experiencing no overdrive?
@@mitchelllawrentz766 it seems to engage lightly
@@burnheretic3950 I have no overdrive at all
What worked for me is very simple. Give it a shot all you guys what have this issue. I've tried all those little tricks, none of it really worked. What did the trick is completely rerouting that ground wire that he is taking about. Away from alternator and the block. I routed it over the top of the radiator right next to positive cable all the way too the battery. It is just long enough, you don't need to cut and extend it. Tru that first before cutting anything. If yall want me to make a video showing what I did, let me know. It's very simple, every 2nd gen cummins should do this.
Mine is definitely not long enough without an extension. Its already tight and i cant even move it up 5 inches
th-cam.com/video/myHsbxU_K8w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Yz4EEVswzmiULu_I
would love to see your simple solution, and video as well, his video is confusing to me. he made it after his repair and i dont see it well. Showing a piece of wire that was removed and flopping everywhere , i dont get it
@@JustPlaneMike th-cam.com/video/myHsbxU_K8w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SoXeRbqi3sygGs5U
I did that and it didn’t fix my problem
I just talked to a diesel mechanic that has been working for a dodge dealership for a long time. Yes this was a bad issue with 2nd gen automatic trucks. The wire plug in on that ground coming from ECM to PCM is the problem. He told me what’s happening is that the plug in gets hot and interferes with the pcm causing the torque converter to lock and unlock rapidly. He quaranteed by cutting out this plug and grounding each end of the wire to the batteries has and will fix the problem!!! He also said you can sotter the 2 wires together once the plug is removed. Either way works!!
Interesting. Everybody else has said it's a bad alternator giving off ac voltage interference to that wire that runs over the alternator.
@@CaseyDevillier tried cutting the plugs out and it didn't solve the problem either.
Thank you!!! I’ve owned my 2001 for 5 years and tried several recommendations. I just eliminated those plugs and now on i10 tirando HUMO!!! THANKYOU again from AZ . PURO HD!!!
But this is a great video thank you. My trucks been doing the same thing for two years and I finally just bought the manual transmission. I’m over the automatic, but this is nice to know. Thank you.
That engine has a Wonderfully distinctive sound!😍
Really good info, pretty clear, but i'm going to watch this several more times to fully understand the correct wires to cut and splice before i attempt it. Thank you
Thank you for your comment.
Please let me know how it goes . If you have any questions, I'll help the best i can and get back to you . Hopefully, your truck is back to working 💪🏽 the way it should .
How has your truck been doing since you done all this work?! Great video sir!
@@white24valve thank you .
Still working great, no problems at all with shifting gears or surging at any speed .
th-cam.com/video/myHsbxU_K8w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Yz4EEVswzmiULu_I
I just lost my dad a few days ago. Im trying to fix his dodge (2001) in order to haul our cattle and sheep to market. Had our current issue (not the one described here, tpps, and map sensor i think? Basically erratic acceleration..but problem keeps morphing on me... anyways) bring me here. I like your style! Ima sub! And check out what other wonderful bits of knowledge you have! My dad wouldve pissed about the transmission rebuild, but glad the issue got sorted! Wish i found your vid sooner! Ill definitely try this once i get my current issue figured out! Please make more vids on your dodge if you can; this my dads last truck, he bought it new. It was special to him as 1st he could ever get that way. So its special to me now! And i wanna treat it right!
Also, my uncle, used to be an electrician, and he was known for getting rid of superfluous nonsense in controls! (not in automotive field, DC magnet controllers and hydraulic control relays) so I can Respect removing nonsense!😅🫡
Dude. I just bought a 24v today. I started having this issue on my way home from buying it. I did not notice it on the test drive. I really thought I was about to have to rebuild my trans. I hope this will fix my issue. Thanks for the knowledge brother
Did this fix your problem???
Did this fix your issue??
Check your brake switch! Mine was bad causing my t/c to lock and unlock over the smallest bumps
I developed severe hunting especially in cruise control which would clear if I drove over 70 mph. Replaced the Governor Pressure Sensor 12415C and Governor Pressure Solenoid 12432A solved the problem. But still fighting the other minor hunting issue as it did not go away..
Relocated the ground wire that runs along the alternator did not help Installed the APPS Noise Isolator Dodge 5.9L 1994-2004 from BD Diesel did not solve the problem. Replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor) thinking there could be a dead spot in sensor did not help. Problem solved when I cleaned all the ground cables from the battery to the firewall. At that firewall point there is a ground strap that goes to the PCM. Cleaned all those eliminated the problem. They were all badly corroded. I have a 5.9 2002 2 wheel drive so I guess that would come as no surprise.
U saved my ass. Man Ive been so fucked for so long. All this money spent. And finally it works. Thank you so fucking much
@@tannerhooper7211 I'm glad I was able to help!
Well done, I have a 2500 5.9 2005 love it have 250,000 miles on it n run awesome calls it my Big Dog .
I just bought a 2002 24V a few months ago. Truck is great but having the same issue!!! I changed the throttle position sensor, no luck! Re routed the ground wire, no luck! I will try this and hopefully it fixes the problem!! The truck is a great truck hopefully this fixes this aggregating problem. Cause when it starts acting up it’s pretty much non drivable!
Hopefully this takes care of your problem.
I did all this today with my wiring… it didn’t fix the bucking
Does it start at a certain speed ? And have you done any other things to the truck besides what you have said in your first comment?
Yes. I rerouted the wire first. It didn’t fix the problem then today I cut the plug off of the ground and grounded each end separately and it didn’t fix the problem. Yes it only does it at 50 mph and over also sometimes it takes several miles of traveling before it starts doing it. Once it starts jerking back and forth my tachometer starts surging up and down. I know it’s not the transmission because I had it tested. Also I grounded the pcm that’s located on the firewall, to the battery as well.
Does it do it from a cold start or only after driving at temp for awhile. If it does it from cold your pcm may already be to damaged. Swap it out for a known good one as a test if possible.
Thank you very much for the advice, I just did it with my truck. Could you talk about the calibration of the linkage? Greetings from Ecuador
would what you talking about work for a 95 dodge with the 12 valve cummins. im having a problem with it not wanting to lock in overdrive
Me too
tps needs cleaned
Did you get this sorted
14:15 i think the people that suggest running the ground to the battery in that situation, probably live up north. These dodges can rust bad! And grounding is sooo important! That i wouldnt really trust solely the frame work for it😅
17:40 that coincides with the dodges having rust issues and not good grounds. Good tip!
Gonna try this tomorrow. My brand new converter is surging like crazy and driving me insane. Hopefully this does it tried everything else at this point 😂
Yes I was in the same situation. 🤞🏽 hope this take care of your problems.
Did you cut each 4 wires on the driver's side and plumb them all Into one wire and then ground it to the drivers side battery or did you cut it before it switches to 4 Individual wires then you just grounded the single line before it splits off into 4 lines into the drives side battery. That's what I'm confused about thanks.
Yo! Same! Had transmission rebuilt and issue reappears later!
This isn't my current issue, I still have this problem randomly, but was looking for a solution to another problem. Glad I found this tho!
Are the black wieres from the tcm have orange line?
Very nice video on the 4 wires did you splice all four to the one black wire saudered together and put it to negative ?
is this compatable with a 04 cummins? i hate this surging issue
What 2 wires on the passenger side are for sure.thanks
how is your truck running afterward? I am currently having this problem and hopefully after my injection pump gets replaced for the second time it will stop the issue, It did it for the first time but shortly after a while it started again.
Yes indeed my truck did the same thing. It seems to be fine and then it would come back and do it again. But as of right now it's been working great haven't had the problem come back. Hopefully your is fixed after that .
Hey bud good video, but I'm still a little unsure, especially on the splicing part of the wires going to PCM. help me
Ill have to watch again but im pretty sure i did all these fixes and still does it. That big crimp splice on driver'side looked totally fine on mine after i opened it up. One other thing with my truck is scan tool wont connect. Tried snap on and OTC. Gets power but wont connect to computer.
Dose this work in the 1500 5.9gas I just spent 3100 on a new trans and it’s already messing up
Bd diesel isolator works like a beast 💪🏻🔥 i try this and no lucky for me men , i know that not means for others but in my case no works , i just receive the bd diesel apps isolator and that thing ojt my truck to work as a champ
I have installed an ats sponge for 47re and it solved all my issues
Is this only common for a 24v ?
I will have to try this my 24 valve I had new trans installed last week but still won’t go in to over drive nether did the old one nothing is working I will try this
Yes indeed I went through the same thing with my 24v and I know the feeling.
Of have a new Transmission installed and driving for the first time and problem still there .
Let me know how it went. And if you have any questions as answer and help the best I can. Hopefully take care of the problem.
@@projectramlife819 did your truck start by not going in to overdrive ?
@christianmeadows7581 it would only go in to next gear or over drive when I step on the Accelerator hard almost full throtale then it would grab gear. If not it would only be surging. I'll put up a video soon showing how it switches gears.
Did this fix it I got a 99 that won’t go into overdrive
What is that sensor itself called
Having this issue with a 2003/3 GEN will this work don’t see any connector plug need help
same here for a 04 having the same issue
Mine was neg cable off alternator at block
So I’ve heard of using a tps delete would that work also?
To be honest I haven't tired that . But just thinking I'd say no because it's a ground ac noise interference issues. I tried just about everything and since I did what I explained in the video haven't came back or given me any problems . Running strong . Hope this helps .
@@projectramlife819 look it up because guys are using it for the same reason and what it does is hooks up to the tps clip and you set where you want it to shift manually it tells it when to shift and I feel it’s the same thing because that comes from the module to the tps and that tells when to switch and with the issues the tps isn’t sending the right info to the module because it’s getting interference because of the alternator
@@HorizonnetworksccI believe that was only for the common rail trucks
I'm sorry if this is a dumb question but does this problem also occur for 12v engines?
Yes. My 12 valve same issue and has an 8k rebuilt trans
Did you cut it up by the firewall? Bc mine continues from the pcm all along the back firewall
No I didn't cut along the fire wall.
Just on the passenger side close to the pcm we're I pur together the wires .
Would this work on a 1994 12V,?
I'm not 100% sure . I'm not that familiar with 12 v . But I'd think if the wiring is ran the same way and looks like the one in the video , I'd think it should work as well . I know that 12v don't have as much electronics it's more mechanical parts .
How long has it been with the new setup ? Still working great ?
2 weeks , haven't given any problems at all , no matter how light I'm on the throtale shift like new .
Hey man so I did this not sure If I did something wrong or if it's something else but my truck acts up untill it warms up like shifting is bs untill 10min after it warms up then it seems to run great what you think it can be and have a fix in mind ?
@guscova2983 after it warms up it shifts fine ? It fixed the surging or its like before you fixed it ?
Like before fixed
@@guscova2983 im trying to think what coulf causes it to do that, before you fix it even after 10 mins it still wouldn't work correctly right ?
What codes where you getting ?
I don't remember off the top of my head. But I was not getting any check engine light. Only if I scanned it it would give me a code .
Same for 95 Cummins?
I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think so .
Can I pay you to do it ?
What wire you just said four wires in the front of the motor splice like a little bit more explanation on that thank you
Yes, it's the wire that runs from the right side all the way to the left side behind the alternative. From the ecm, it comes out as 4 and then becomes 1 wire . You can splice from where it's 1 and from there on the right side conect to negative post on battery terminal. Hope this helps.
THAT'S EXACTLY MY TRUCK DOES,. IT DOES ONLY ON 60 MILES SO DO YOU THINK THAT'S COULD BE THE PROBLEM??,.MY DODGE RAM 3500/2001/5.9 CUMMINS 24 VALVES TURBO DIESEL MANUAL TRANSMISSION.
You have a manual transmission so this video doesn’t do anything for you 😂
Iam trying this tomorrow
Trying what, all I hear is babbling and no answers. Very frustrating video
Or you could just do what I did and pull the stupid automatic transmission out and swap it over with an envy 4500 cured the problem got me is decent news transmission for four-wheel-drive for 2500 bucks. Problem solved.
Arriba Mexico, Cabron Gracias
Would you get to it? This is very frustrating video…
Hey buddy , d you cut the wire that comes with to from the harness or how? I see that cable goes to the big bunch of cable harness on the top firewall and i see that cable has the 2 wires plus another black with a white line wire that goes together with those . Can you please share me your instagram or something to show you what im talking about please