Whenever I see early to midcentury equipment like this, the first thing I think is "I hope that doesn't end up in a scrap yard." It's so cool to see guys like you restoring this stuff.
It looks like it's roughly from the 70s- 80s based off make and model. People are saving much earlier lathes than this. I just restored a 1908 Flathers lathe.
Two (of many) rules for working with a lathe: - never work with gloves; - never approach rotating parts with a long red beard! And you will live happily ever after and will continue to delight us with your new releases for a long time...
@@bishopkinlyside8477omg I zip tied an pulley rope to the front of an 4 cilinder Briggs and Stratton without thinking obviously 😂😂😂😂 didn't end well yesterday.
I was a Service Technician for Mori Seiki CNC Tools for a few years and YOU & your staff are AWESOME TECHNICIANS !! When I worked in Machine Shops; these Cincinnati Lathes were about the BEST you could BUY !! EXCELLENT to see the CRAFTSMANSHIP from the 20th Century LIVING & WORKING WELL these days !! WELL DONE, Brother !! 👋👋👋👋👋 BRAVO Salvage Workshop !!💢
Dude.... I stopped the video at 1 hour and 30 minutes (where you have the drawing) to say this: I've been watching you for YEARS and that catch you made with the key/pin issue just gained you the ENTIRE CAPACITY of that machine; and 1,000 cool-points!!! You are one of the most mechanically inclined people I've ever met/watched. I admire when you admit you have no f'n idea how to do something, but you ALWAYS figure it out. It's a true testament of "never give up", which you've mentioned before in a few videos. A lot of people would never have seen that missing pin, or wondered why the shaft was moving. That's the best "catch" I've seen you make, in ALL of your videos so far!! I'm very impressed! Btw, perhaps buy a small laser to help point-out things that are out of reach. It might help. Now, back to the video. 💪💪
Thank you my friend! I truly appreciate the compliment! I do want to say that my abilities are learned, and i truly believe that just about anyone, IF they believe they can and are willing to TRY, even with the possibility of failing, can learn to do anything they put their mind to... I have NO education in doing pretty much EVERYTHING you see me do on my channel, i didnt grow up on a farm or have a family member teach me any of this, i have always known i COULD do whatever i put my mind to, and THAT determination is what you are actually seeing.... that and years of trial and error where ive learned a bit more with each project... as well as a lot of research/ finding the right people to ask the right questions to! I do thank you for the compliments, but even you can do ANYTHING if your truly willing to give it a real TRY!
@@SalvageWorkshop It's really fun to watch you fixing this beauty (and also your other content!) ... and in a way it is also relaxing!:) While I subscribe to the points you made about learning, there are also important things to consider. Great respect for self-taught people. So let us self-teach some peculiarities of this field ( I am not talking about you, but in general ... and TH-cam/social media). There are often dozens of ways to solve a problem. And sometimes only one or two of them are “the right one”. What are the chances that you, as an inexperienced person (which you inevitably are when you learn something new or teach yourself something), will find and use one of the "bad" approaches? So one that usually only reveals its pitfalls over time, or even poses a real risk to the occupational safety of you and others? This problem can be easily eliminated if you learn from a professional in this field, for example during training. This can teach lessons, correct moves and methods, but can also check the status of the training at the same time. On the other hand, you naturally learn from your mistakes and can consult specialist literature. Of course, neither of these guarantees success in the same way that learning from experts in a specialized company does. The big “danger” here is that you will pass on (some of) your wrong or flawed methods to thousands or millions of viewers. And yes, this can of course have a bad outcome due to the multiplication, which has definitely already happened (hence some warnings in the trailers of certain videos, which make a lot of sense). Let's be honest: self-taught people are often portrayed as heroes, but the dark side is not mentioned. But it is precisely the interested viewer who should have the competence to critically question everything they have seen. On the other hand, this way of learning (yes, of course, sometimes there are no alternatives) is very complicated, tedious and error-prone. You should always keep that in mind. You should always keep that as last resort and default to "asking an expert" (And if that will be via a book or even TH-cam ... because there are actual experts, sharing their knowledge, giving safety advice and debunking such debatable methods that arise through self-taught-madness (botches! hehehe). Thanks for sharing your work, your ideas and expertise! Oh and also for the entertaining videos, hehehe:)
Yo repare la misma máquina con el problema del pasador salido le instale un perno roscado (saque el árbol) Lo hice hace 20 años y la maquina se utilizó hasta el 2022 que fue vendida por cierto el aceite Shell clavus 68 . Muy buen trabajo mis respetos por alguien que trabaja muy duro para que sus máquinas estén en condiciones. Te saludo afectuosamente Carlos desde Buenos Aires Argentina
I'm a retired (42 years) R&D prototype machinist that used to have the Leblond version of that very lathe. Careful taking the shift mechanism apart! Lots of small parts that can be lost or reassembled incorrectly. I really enjoyed watching this video since I've been out of the game for nearly 3 years now. Have fun with that beautiful old lathe!❤
That lathe also resembles a COLCHESTER lathe I worked on many years ago, the twin gear selection levers were the same. I retired at 55 some 20 years ago, so the time I spent on small lathes was many years before that. I did use one for race engine lightning parts years later though. A very handy little lathe indeed. I ended up on VTLs for years then went on to 5 AXIS fully CNC machining centres for a few years. I ended up working far too hard so I retired - lol
I was saying NO leave that alone! When he pulled the shift head off. Just getting the linkage and shift dogs in the correct place is challenge enough, much less if they dropped out any detents or springs. Not a job for someone who seems to have a few hammers and pry bars and an adjustable wrench.
I lost two fingers, well they did so them back on and they work but I can't play guitar anymore I can't feel them anymore. There are very important rules for a reason and you are right I was almost having a heart attack when he had his head by that moving gear it's insanely stupid and this guy is not a stupid person it took me almost losing two fingers terminally to fully respect these machines it was the most painful thing that I ever witnessed and I don't want to do it again heaven your fingers yanked off is horrifyingly painful I am so lucky they were able to fix them
Maybe the lower drain plug is not connected to the recirculating pump to allow a small amount of water and sludge to settle out of the recirculating oil. This will insure that the transmission is only operating only on oil. Automotive transmissions collect sludge in the bottom of the pan because the pickup of slightly above the bottom of the pan. I would not change the drain plug to a tee.
I also wouldn't stress too much about changing that oil too too often, that machine was made to run with a very specific oil and to run for a very specific amount of hours. If he goes and changes it every 2 hour it runs, he will end up ruining that gearbox.
I was thinking the same because it has a separate tray it comes out of, you can see the tray or box from underneath it where he connected the 1/2 pipe to drain it. should be a valve their instead of a plug.
I can't beleive that motor was running with all that crap in it! What was even more mind blowing was that all they did was to clean it out, wire wheel the rust off, put some heat shrink on all the wires, and change the bearings. An it still worked when they put it back together!!! I thought that no one would selvage that motor without having to re wire the whole thing. Brilliant!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂 Nicely done guys 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I really enjoy these long format videos on repairing old iron!!!! Also would love to see a few rescue missions again!!! Nothing beats getting a timeless machine running again in the woods or a dusty barn. Keep them coming and I’ll keep watching
Great, but why the same shielded bearings and not Rubber sealed bearings and no sealant at electrical outer box where there was a gasket originally, and by the way that corrosion would most likely be the coolants fault.
Very inspiring, I have a 20 year old Jet lathe that I'm very fond of, I don't have the money for a new one. After watching one of your videos, I started the repair on my machine. Lucky for me the lathe is made by Jet, I was able to order all the repair parts I needed. It's finished now, and I feel the satisfaction you get when this piece of equipment is working like new. The repair parts around $400, a new lathe was around $3,400. Thanks for your videos, it's the kick in the butt needed to get started.🤓
I have a stupid question Why didn't you take a part from something you already had? If you have a bunch of machines and the machines parts are meant to rotate ....sorry this is the second time I had to write it because it deleted the first time
The air conditioner is broken but the assembly line is Air conditioner Washer dryer Freezer Water heater Refrigerator Dish washer Sink Stove Microwave ------ Oven Microwave over an oven The air conditioner is broken and the piece you need is in the let's say water heater but to keep the water heater going you have to arrange or rearrange the entire assembly And my brain says it could be as simple as cutting the grass while it's wet....
They keep deleting my messages ....so its not coming out right which is making look more like a stupid dumbass as if it was a stupid question in the get go
So awesome brother!! I am building a small but fairly complete machine shop to support my garage that will specialize in pre WWI race cars. I will start posting videos when it gets warm enough to get out to the barn and start doing some work. Keep up the great job. I need to find a tool room lathe and a vertical mill. I have a Southbend and a horizontal milll so far but they need some work.
Fantastic job you did restoring that broken lathe. It must have a lot of hard work and sweat, not to mention that it was a dirty job. It looks much better and it works like a charm too. You and your partner helped to save it from the scrap yard. Excellent work.
*OMG... I have waited a long time to see one of the many machines, that you got all those years ago, up and working again. 🙂Thank you for doing this video, it has been so worth this long wait.... I looking forward to seeing you working on another of these old machines... to get them all going again and having a full working tool shop... 🙂nz.*
If that shop was anything like our ancient shop rain would leak through the roof and cover many of the machines. All the exposed areas got cleaned, dried and re-oiled but hidden from sight spots like the motor, junction boxes and electrical panel never got touched leading to rust, peeling paint and similar white deposits.
Thank you , I've been retired now for some years due to health reasons . I enjoyed your program, I almost felt like I was on the job . There are to many people doing jobs they don't like, me on the other hand, enjoyed my job .
I was watching as you shifted through the gears with the top cover off. the oil goes down the gap between the electric box and the case and i'm guessing then through the mounting holes over the years. Its now the end of the vid. What a beautiful old lathe. Cinncinatti is a good known brand too. Its good to see it working. One of my friends bought himself a "Denbigh" Colum drill press. Its an antique. Its all flat belt drive and fantastic castings, a thing of beauty. It even came with a box of No 3 Morse taper drill bits up to 2 inch and a regular 5/8 drill chuck. It hasnt even got a drill hole in the table. It was built in the days when you didn't have safety regulations regarding exposed belts and the operator was expected to know not to get himself in-between a belt and pulley. Ill see if i can find you a photo.
All of the corrosion inside the motor is from Condensation. The motor being completely sealed I would bet the shop the lathe as used in was kept cool or cold when not in use. Running the lathe would put heat inside the motor. Heat and cold equals condensation that could not evaporate due to the air tight design. That is an excellent motor, well worth the rebuild.
You have an excellent lathe on your hands. You did an excellent job of diagnosing the issues the machine had, that electric motor looks as if it set with water in it for a period of time, another possibility is that it set in a very humid area and condensation from temp changes over the years built up the corrosion, nice job of salvaging the motor. Thanks for tag along video sir, really enjoyed watching the lathe salvage.
I Agree! All that white crap looks like Aluminum corrosion - and Oil does NOT make aluminum corrode - WATER DOES. If the lathe had been stored anywhere humid - water could have built up in that sealed motor and done all that damage.
@@normmcrae1140 My thought is that it was dried coolant. Coolant seeping in through the jacket of the power wires and being evaporated away by the motor's heat.
Add a valve to the oil drain pipe you installed under the headstock, then attach a flexible hose pipe to the valve, this will make it easier to service the next time you want to drain the oil from the headstock into a bucket etc. Also add strong magnets to the lower part of the headstock they will capture any errant ferrous material that is resident inside the headstock, check the magnets whenever you change the oil, this can save a lot of expensive repairs.
Good advice, I reckon. Also, I would *not* tee the lower drain to join with the higher outlet to the filter. I consider the lower drain is what should be used to a) empty the sump periodically of any accumulated heavier-than-oil content, such as metallic wear debris and condensed atmospheric water vapour b) empty the entire headstock when an oil change eventually falls due
@@lukula2934 Unless the headstock runs hot, like over about 60C (generally due to excessive preload on the axial bearings of the main spindle) there will generally be very little oxidation of premium oil; I think it's largely a function of wear detritus, and water condensation. The latter might only be a detrimental factor in an industrial lathe located in the vicinity of acid or other corrosive fumes, which could have been dissolved in atmospheric water vapour and build up in the oil over the years. This would be signalled by high levels of surface corrosion on unprotected cast iron or steel surfaces outside the headstock. If it's just pure water vapour condensing in the headstock, it will accumulate at the bottom of the sump and can just be drained off at regular intervals. If the lathe is on a ship, it would be more problematic as the motion of the ship could keep re-emulsifying it. Wear detritus can be monitored over time by comparing the colour of a sample drawn from the headstock with a small glass bottle saved from the same filling source and kept away from light. If the oil remains clear, does not become tacky or develop a different odour, and there is no detectable colour change, my untutored feeling is that there should be no need to change it regardless of age. It's a very different use case from (say) an IC engine.
Hi there Salvage Workshop, i just wanted to tell you how impressed i was with your workmanship and problem solving skills. you really need to know, common sense isn't that common at all but you have that skill in leaps and bounds. great episode today buddy really great work. im looking forward to the next journey. you take care brother and thankyou for sharing this lathe work it was fantastic.
Thank you Ben! I appreciate it! I think we need to start teaching a bit more common sense, and a lot less usless facts in schools these days, but who am I to say such a thing! I do believe that anyone can learn to do what i do if they're willing to TRY and they really WANT to do it! I didnt always know how to do petty much ANYTHING you see me do on the channel, but i wasnt afraid to fail, which leads to the confidence to DO ANYTHING! That applies to doing anything in life! Thanks for watching, i truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
On the gear noise issue when you loosened the bolt it stopped making the rubbing noise so there could be a tight spot in the rotating assembly that it clamps. perhaps the washer is distorted. Also remember you are spinning straight cut gears pretty fast on a pulley with long spokes so there may well be a harmonic involved. you might try bluing up the rotating assembly and seeing if there is a tight spot that shows up just spinning by hand. Double thumbs up for bringing a great lathe back to life.
That is a very interesting lathe! Also props to the people that designed and built that motor! I own a 1944 14" L&S model A, this lathe looks ultra high tech in comparison... funnily enough it was incorrectly listed as a Cincinnati lathe... love it to bits.
That motor was more of an Archaeological dig than a restoration , nice job you have brought a large chunk of metal back to a very pre stable and usable machine 👍
That's a 3 phase motor. The segments on the rotor need no electrical connection. Rotation is caused entirely by the magic of the MAGNETIC fields created by the 120 degree phasing of the 60Hz 3 phase power. (As an EE I too am pretty amazed the motor actually ran so well! Luckily that white aluminum oxide is a good electrical insulator 🙂)
When that old Cincinnati was new there were probably a bunch of people standing around to watch it operate like a new CNC machine today, the most modern technology 😊
I am a retired tool and die maker. There is a couple other reasons why there could be oil in the box. It could have got there by someone putting their oil can on top of the lathe, and oil could have got spilt, and simply just drained into the electrical box. Now I know what you're saying before I go forward.but The oil is kept in the pan yes it is but it is a different type of oil then what you normally would use if you are threading a piece of metal. Oil in the pan is soluble oil, oil that would have been kept on top of the ladies would be called cutting oil. Or tap magic there's a few different types of Orioles that used on a machine. The second way how the oil could have been in the electrical box even a soluble oil when the machine is running the head is spinning and it could easily have been a mist of oil being put in the air may be bouncing off the wall and over years and years dripping down into the electrical box. It very well could be there is no leak in the electrical box you just need to make sure them to scenarios don't happen, now as far as their jaws go. Measured the hardened jaws that you have. make three blocks that are the same size mill the slots on the backside of them the exact same depth with and length, drill the two holes onto the top with a Bridgeport for you can put your bolts in. Put them on the laid bring all jaws together drill a good size center whole through the jaws. Simply put a tool bit in the late or a boring bar to make it ID turning tool to make it OD port what they call a spider in the middle of all three jaws, easy way to make a spider is that you take a big not drill and tap a quarter inch 20 whole three of them for they go into the center of the jaws when you close them, that is how you turn the ODs to whatever size your part is, now 40 ID put a chain around her jaws make sure it's a good strong chain you put it together without bolt and a nut now you are ready to bore out to jaws for an ID hold. Usually you will have many different steps on the jaws for ID or oldie so you can use them jaws for many different jobs these are called blank jaws if you buy them, if you have a Bridgeport or a milling machine, you can do all this work right in-house. :-) At least that is what we use to do in the machine shop trade. The owner would just bite blank jaws and we would make them the correct size for the job we was working on but if you don't want to buy blank jaws you can machine them yourself. Now thinking about it for a 3/8 16 whole into your spider you don't want something very small where you can bend it easily by closing the jaws, but also remember do not go crazy on over tightening the chuck key, nice and snug that's all you need. I'll send you the bill in the mail of the knowledge I just sent to you :-) I hope you understood what I was trying to tell you, Sina a couple of the words that was not properly spelt. But I'm sure you can figure it out if you know anything of machining
Yes, I worked in a large tool grinding facility for 20 years. We used oil based coolant, sprayed from a nozzle at the point where the grinding wheel contacted the work piece. We had hundreds of machines running nearly nonstop. There was oil dripping from everything in the building, and almost no matter how well sealed a compartment, when you opened it…OIL!!!
Another reason oil or coolant can get into the electrical panel is a defective door gasket. When in operation cutting metal coolant spray can migrate into any opening.
I like your theory. But I don't understand why he thinks oil in the electrical box would cause corrosion? I mean there's oil all over this thing and that the only spot it caused damage? I'm thinking water leaked on the box from the shop roof and collected in the box
P.S. If you have the room to clear the cross slide I would put a valve on your drain with a hose barb. A section of hose can then be used to control the flow wherever you want it for a neat drain process.
This is what you call hard working bad ass machinist. Determent and have a strong will to go through all this. By watching you dealing with all of the crap, but, yet managing this puzzle machine. Hats off. Enjoyed every bit of it. I am sure you will have a lot of fun with this lathe for many years to come. Best of luck.
another very good film. I admire the way that you deal with each challenge as it appears. You make everything look so easy. Very well done. I like your films, they are ispirational.
Matt, all that tooling especially that collet Chuck system, even the 4 jaw scroll Chuck are so useful and valuable, great to see you getting to the machine tools. Cincinnati is sensational.
He really didn't understand the collet chuck. They don't squeeze "lightly" they squeeze evenly and concentrically. Perfect for chucking round stock. I think he will find that it's perfect for small repetitive jobs and will become one of his favorite chucks.
I have a Cincinnati 13” hydra-shift lathe. Got an awesome deal on it. Needs some minor attention. It was nice to see your video on the problems you worked through and to see inside the beast. I use to run a 17” Cincinnati years ago. I really liked running it. Nice machine.
I love your channel and enjoy your work! I appreciate all you do to rescue the equipment! My first paying job at $1.10 an hour was in a machine shop with a family friend! I contacted Jim (called him Unkle) a lifetime machinist and there was nothing he couldn't do! I gave him the info of your machine. He has been retired for years and in his 90s now, but still sharp as ever! He said he had one just like it. He stated it has always been his favorite! He doesn't have any machine equipment anymore, but he said he keep all the equipment manuals and manufacturers rebuild manuals. He always did all his own repairs. He said if your interested and he can find all the books and manuals for it he would be honored to give them to you if your interested. Just let me know ( I've told him you would be honored to have the P/W and books and give them life again) hope you don't mind, because it made his day and got really excited about it! So, you'll be make an old machinist very happy. Talking to him sounded like he was giddy about it!😂 I'll keep you informed on his progress. He did mention something about s/n, but he couldn't remember its importance. Keep up the great work and thank you!
I truly appreciate the compliment Mike! It means a lot! You can tell Unkle Jim that I WOULD be honored to have any literature, manuals, sales brochures, or whatever else he has! Ill happily show the manuals in the next video on the lathe, im sure other people would like to see them! I really like having ACTUAL manuals for all my old machines, but i don't always get them! If you could send me an email at salvageworkshop@gmail.com when he finds them, that would be awesome! Thanks again, i really appreciate it!
Wow, what a beautiful machine, proudly made in America! Back in the day, they truly knew how to craft things, didn't they? This lathe is 66 years old and still works like a charm. Do you remember RCA Victor, known for the best TVs of that time? Craftsman tools used to be the best as well. When did we lose that pride in saying "Made in America"? Thank you for sharing this great video!
That filter housing is also used on oil furnaces. They use a bit different element, but the same housing. BTW, that motor is what’s called a TEFC. AKA, Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled. Fairly common for industrial applications.
My hobby is restoring old antique and vintage machine tools. I suggest you separate the 4 jaw self-centering chuck from its back plate and sell them separately. My Clausing 5913 has a L-00 spindle, and I would love to find a L-00 back plate so I could mount a 4-jaw adjustable chuck. thanks for making this video. Very interesting subject material to me.
The machine is awesome and really enjoyed the video. The best part of all of it for me was seeing a very talented young man working with his head and his hands to work through some problems and accomplish his goal. Gives me a little bit of hope for the future. Coming from many generations of mechanics and spending 60 years at it myself, can tell you, you’re what our family calls “unicorns with dirt under their fingernails”. Not many around! Thanks!
Was working with a hydraulic tech with a lot of experience. He placed a small powerful magnet near the sump intake that grabs particles from going through the system. I guess you would have to periodically pull the magnet out and clean off the particles. He ordered the magi nets from Grainger, but you could find them many places…
Not sure if you noticed, but there was a paper type gasket on the motor wire connection box when you opened it. Probably should make yourself a replacement gasket for that, eh?
Love your tenacity Matt, always willing to find out what the issue is and to put it right.👍 The work that you've done on it, it's going to last another 50 years. If you want any help with lathes, make contact with Curtis from CCE over in Australia, he's a bit of a lathe expert. Couldn't believe the state of that motor, the last time I found something like that it was under a washing machine, that one though had to go to the great motor graveyard. 😂
I subscribed after watching this video , you remind me of me , only your starting at a lot younger than me . When working on old machines I'll get stuck sometimes and ask my self why am I doing this , but when you figure it out and get it fixed it is very rewarding so I understand your excitement . Hey now you have tools to fix other tools . I'm glad I found your channel , I look forward to see what else you have in the future , thanks for the videos .
A couple of observations if you don’t mind: firstly, that 4 jaw self centering Chuck is probably your best Chuck. It can hold round or square stock equally as efficiently and, if I’m correct, has a centering adjustment feature that allows precise adjustment. Secondly, as you mentioned a rusty deposit in the electrical panel, I would suspect that coolant has been making its way past the door seal and , over the years has evaporated. The types of oil used in lathes isn’t likely to cause rusting, whereas coolant is usually mixed with water which, if left in a closed space, will cause severe rusting.
Yeah baby! Beautiful! What an incredible mess in that motor. Wow! Good Job! It is amazing how much "broken" stuff gets thrown away all for a lack of a little elbow grease, maintenance, and ingenuity.
Master of unobtanium gaskets... now making unobtanium parts. Not quite the same, but I bought a 3d printer that I have already made several unobtanium parts with. Designing the parts in CAD, spitting them out and having them fit properly is pretty rewarding.
Retired farmer here, tore into lots of different mechanisms throughout the years, and always enjoyed figuring out how different machines worked. The old machines were rougher built, but in my experience were more robust and durable. Not as fancy, efficient, or fast? Probably. Not as convenient? For sure. Made to pass down to the next generation? You better believe it! Congratulations on your lathe, all of my above statements apply to what you now have. Great video. (Only cringe moment I had was when you were listening to that bushing on that larger gear, I closed my eyes thinking about your beard getting caught). I like the way you think, stay safe, blessing to you!
As others have already mentioned here, there are at least two different kinds of lubricant used on lathes, milling machine's, facers, and line boring machines - if you dont count the different varieties of greases for screw drive threads of course, there is Lubricant oil which is like the oil used in the differential of your car and is water insoluble, and there is Cutting oil which IS water soluble and is used to keep the cutting edges cooled to both prevent friction hardening of the work peice and the cutting tool from chattering or blunting as a consequence, all of which being highly undesirable in a finely tolerenced work piece, by the looks of the insides of your electrical panel it was soluble oil that was penetrating the box as seen in the way it flecked the enamel paint off the inside of the box....the water element in the cutting lubricant doing that obviously... I would also speculate some balloon forgot to turn the coolant tube off at sometime in the distant past and allowed it to pour all over the cabinet and run down onto the motor directly below it was what caused all that aluminium corrosion to build up and the bearings to rust, gear oil being incapable of doing anything like it, what ever you DONT mix or confuse the two types, as here or there is likely to be big consequences. If I were you I would trace through and draw a schematic diagram, of where BOTH types of lubricants should live within the machine and where they are channelled, filtered,stored etc. lube oil obviously needing to be stored in a none accidently accessable area, whereas water diluted cutting oil which also carries away swarfe should be in an open system. and sumped at the base of the machine. well done on the overhaul by the way, a job very competantly done.
@@marcosmota1094 Was that meant to be a correction of something I said or a reinforcement of same ?? you appear to use quotation marks indicating it was a direct quote, which it obviously wasnt, as I am perfectly aware of the different hygroscopic properties of, and the uses for, water miscible and non miscible lubricants .I have yet to hear of one single example of an extreme pressure oil that is miscible to water being used as a pure lubricant or for that matter its point, perhaps I'm wrong. if so please enlighten this poor engineer of nearly fifty years of experience. the only products I can think of that DO encapsulate water are engine oils which deliberately use polymer modifiers to turn any water in them into the white scummy residue you find inside a rocker cover, but that is deliberate encapsulation for the purposes of removing the water from the lubricant.
I think that you left out a word in the first part of your sentence...soluble v. *not* soluble lubricants. Other readers might be equally confused (despite your upvotes)@@usernamesreprise4068
Hell of a long video, but I can't say enough about your talent, persistence, video editing, quality of the video, I just can't say enough ! I'm jealous !!! Simply wonderful !
I don’t think you want that really fine powdery metal to go through the filter. It’s better to let it settle in the lower sump and clean it out occasionally.
I love watching you repair old equipment. Wish I could do that now but I’m just too old and crippled to do such a thing. But I will keep watching you make old things new again and I will be happy watching your pleasure in restoring old things that someone thought was useless. Keep up the passion as I will also.
Sumps in lathes are for catching heavy particles ,there should be a magnet in there two .If you are going to use the lathe 12 hours a day ,you need to service it regular there will be a scheduled somewhere ,internet or annual somewhere ,if occasional use only change ,filter clean once every few year.
this is a nice lathe but the hydraulic shifting is a very expencive point of failure if you ask me , im only in the industry for 5 years now so i might be speaking out off my ass and very used to the 3 lever shift system (high/low . x/y . and then the third lever has 3 positions and the speeds listed) , the coke insulated the wires , personally would have sent the motor away for rewinding as it would mostlikely be down on power , fresh seals making proper contact on the shaft usually arent free spinning even if lubricated with some grease .GRAT VIDEO!
Huge props to you and your brothers for getting that thing running again. Such an impressive bit of engineering in that gearbox. Be careful with the gear meshing on the backgears; sounds like you are trying to mesh them tight but there usually needs to be a calculated amount of backlash or you are going to have a lot of premature gear wear. Have to admit there was a lot of puckering going on every time you stuck your ear to those backgears and watched your lovely beard get ever closer to those belts...
Hahahahaha you read my mind mate, i was cringing too, also when he was machining that tool and was getting closer to check the finish and his beard was really close to the chuck. That's the type of mistake you will only ever make once! :) Got to admit though, when your in the heat of a project, its so easy to forget things like that. Id say 90% of my mishaps have been when ive been in the zone and not paying as much attention to my surroundings as i should have been. But yeah i would defo either tie that beard up, or use some sort of cover on it, can you imagine the damage if it was to get caught up! wow! :(
I could show you a photo of my thumb after it went through the gears on an old 12" craftsman lathe. I was trying to wipe off excess lube and using a folded up paper towel. Gears grabbed it and sucked it into the gears an before i could let go my thumb went through. Bad deal, should have known better. - Did not stop to consider that my thumb could be drawn in before i could let go. My thumb is fine now but it took a long time to heal and the end looked like ground up hamburger. Doctor said oh don't worry lol, that will heal up just fine... and it did. - Was so torn up he could not even stitch it. After I seen it I really thought the last 1/2" of my thumb was going to have to be removed. it was opened the same way the end of a grape would be of you sat the grape on a cutting board and whacked it hard, the end will shred and pop open with pieces hanging every which way. thumbnail torn off and blood spurting. - Yes I am being kinda graphic to drive home to everyone who reads this... don't get close to running lathe gears. They munch human flesh like a meat grinder munches meat and puts out hamburger. because I was smart, happened to me.
@@robert5 I'm in a CNC Operator certificate program right now... they push the safety thing all the time... they need to have a class of graphic pictures and stories, case studies if you will, on injuries and fatalities in the shops... I'm a 55 year old helicopter instructor/maintenance test pilot, back in school, and think back to driver's ed when I was in high school. They showed the graphic stuff to scare us straight. These machines don't care one bit what gets in their way; they'll just munch it up. Glad you recovered from that...
@@robert5 Absolutely correct - human flesh and bone is no match for steel. Or most metals for that matter! While I have all my digits, I used to work for an engineering firm where one of the guys which operated the sheet lasers had some mangled fingers with one half of one missing. He foolishly had stuck his hand into a small punch press of some kind in an attempt to pull out some pieces of metal and down it went, mangling his fingers. He could still use that hand but his thumb and two fingers were permanently disfigured aside from the one that was half missing. The doctors had to amputate the missing half. The others didn't have to be cut off but the joints were crushed thus the disfigurement. He had partial use which was good but it did hinder him to a certain degree. He was a living, breathing example of why you never put any body parts into a machine like he did... and is why they teach you to power off plus engage in the lock out/tag out process. The irony was that he had the ability to grab onto and use some super long needle-nose pliers in an attempt to fish out the metal but for some reason he didn't use them. He was in agreement that it could have been worse but he had nobody to blame but himself. The moral of the story is to keep your wits about you... make sure you know what you're doing and follow the path of true safety when working on any machinery. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum
WOW, a great video with a ton of educational content. You never cease to amaze me with your approach and diagnosis skills. Thanks for posting and take care!
Very well done! Nasty work with no guarantee, but when everything comes together thanks to persistence, skill, knowledge and LUCK, it does make you smile with satisfaction and pride!
Nice machine! Don't forget to grease that large gear - they don't like to run dry, even with the correct meshing. Ideally you'd have zero clearance between the gears but in order to ensure there is no radial preload, it's normal to have a small clearance. It'll sound a lot smoother and last longer.
Great Job on the diagnostics and repair work. Years ago I worked at a machine shop, and any time that we did cleaning on a lathe, we would use varsol to clean the equipment, and once we finished the cleaning process we would coat everything in basically air tool oil.
I wonder if the white gunk is asbestos? I’d be SUPER careful with that stuff. She’ll be a real sweetheart when you get her running. Super premium machine!
I have the same lathe. Different size, but you actually showed me how I’ve been changing the speeds incorrectly. I stop, then roll through the gears. I’m subscribing, great content! Ping us when you add you add the DRO!
As a Metalwork/ Woodwork teacher for 20 yesrs here in Australia I instilled in students SAFETY. Can you please review all the comments written here and take advice from people in industry or education. The breaches of safety have been mentioned and can you present your content with safety in mind. You are completely at ease with spinning pulleys and gears but the likelihood of an accident is clearly evident. Safety is paramount to getting the job done. In all my career the worst I've endured is a small cut to my hand otherwise I have no injuries. Please show safe methods of work by example.
Awesome that you found the roll pin and key problem by poking around and feeling. Nice gasket. Thumbs up on the electric motor. How about very carefully brushing on a bit of grey paint?
(at 1:19:00) UFF DA! Don the safety glasses 👓😎my good man when the oil begins to fly out of the top! Protect your vision. It is truly a precious thing! 😋 btw... loved the video! 👍 I know nothing about the inner workings of a lathe so this was a fascinating video for me. The electric motor rebuild was a great bonus on top of the lathe tour.
Yeah, that was the good old Days.
Whenever I see early to midcentury equipment like this, the first thing I think is "I hope that doesn't end up in a scrap yard." It's so cool to see guys like you restoring this stuff.
What's in the scrap yard? Why would it be of value to the scrap yard?
It looks like it's roughly from the 70s- 80s based off make and model. People are saving much earlier lathes than this. I just restored a 1908 Flathers lathe.
Two (of many) rules for working with a lathe: - never work with gloves; - never approach rotating parts with a long red beard! And you will live happily ever after and will continue to delight us with your new releases for a long time...
would a long yellow beard be appropriate
I too was cringing when he got close to that spinning gear. It sure would make you’re eyes water getting caught up.
Or ties, I watch the guy , that had a tie on and he was using lathe demonstrating , If the tie would’ve got caught, that would’ve popped his head off
I remember Daryll Holland in one of his teaching video's ''People in the pony crowd tuck it away or you have a ''haircut'' in a hurry'' .
@@bishopkinlyside8477omg I zip tied an pulley rope to the front of an 4 cilinder Briggs and Stratton without thinking obviously 😂😂😂😂 didn't end well yesterday.
I was a Service Technician for Mori Seiki CNC Tools for a few years and YOU & your staff are AWESOME TECHNICIANS !! When I worked in Machine Shops; these Cincinnati Lathes were about the BEST you could BUY !! EXCELLENT to see the CRAFTSMANSHIP from the 20th Century LIVING & WORKING WELL these days !! WELL DONE, Brother !! 👋👋👋👋👋 BRAVO Salvage Workshop !!💢
What a Great Job of finding what was wrong with it and fixing it!!!
Dude.... I stopped the video at 1 hour and 30 minutes (where you have the drawing) to say this:
I've been watching you for YEARS and that catch you made with the key/pin issue just gained you the ENTIRE CAPACITY of that machine; and 1,000 cool-points!!! You are one of the most mechanically inclined people I've ever met/watched. I admire when you admit you have no f'n idea how to do something, but you ALWAYS figure it out. It's a true testament of "never give up", which you've mentioned before in a few videos. A lot of people would never have seen that missing pin, or wondered why the shaft was moving. That's the best "catch" I've seen you make, in ALL of your videos so far!! I'm very impressed!
Btw, perhaps buy a small laser to help point-out things that are out of reach. It might help.
Now, back to the video. 💪💪
Thank you my friend! I truly appreciate the compliment!
I do want to say that my abilities are learned, and i truly believe that just about anyone, IF they believe they can and are willing to TRY, even with the possibility of failing, can learn to do anything they put their mind to... I have NO education in doing pretty much EVERYTHING you see me do on my channel, i didnt grow up on a farm or have a family member teach me any of this, i have always known i COULD do whatever i put my mind to, and THAT determination is what you are actually seeing.... that and years of trial and error where ive learned a bit more with each project... as well as a lot of research/ finding the right people to ask the right questions to!
I do thank you for the compliments, but even you can do ANYTHING if your truly willing to give it a real TRY!
@@SalvageWorkshop It's really fun to watch you fixing this beauty (and also your other content!) ... and in a way it is also relaxing!:) While I subscribe to the points you made about learning, there are also important things to consider. Great respect for self-taught people. So let us self-teach some peculiarities of this field ( I am not talking about you, but in general ... and TH-cam/social media). There are often dozens of ways to solve a problem. And sometimes only one or two of them are “the right one”. What are the chances that you, as an inexperienced person (which you inevitably are when you learn something new or teach yourself something), will find and use one of the "bad" approaches? So one that usually only reveals its pitfalls over time, or even poses a real risk to the occupational safety of you and others?
This problem can be easily eliminated if you learn from a professional in this field, for example during training. This can teach lessons, correct moves and methods, but can also check the status of the training at the same time.
On the other hand, you naturally learn from your mistakes and can consult specialist literature. Of course, neither of these guarantees success in the same way that learning from experts in a specialized company does.
The big “danger” here is that you will pass on (some of) your wrong or flawed methods to thousands or millions of viewers. And yes, this can of course have a bad outcome due to the multiplication, which has definitely already happened (hence some warnings in the trailers of certain videos, which make a lot of sense).
Let's be honest: self-taught people are often portrayed as heroes, but the dark side is not mentioned. But it is precisely the interested viewer who should have the competence to critically question everything they have seen.
On the other hand, this way of learning (yes, of course, sometimes there are no alternatives) is very complicated, tedious and error-prone. You should always keep that in mind. You should always keep that as last resort and default to "asking an expert" (And if that will be via a book or even TH-cam ... because there are actual experts, sharing their knowledge, giving safety advice and debunking such debatable methods that arise through self-taught-madness (botches! hehehe).
Thanks for sharing your work, your ideas and expertise! Oh and also for the entertaining videos, hehehe:)
Yo repare la misma máquina con el problema del pasador salido le instale un perno roscado (saque el árbol)
Lo hice hace 20 años y la maquina se utilizó hasta el 2022 que fue vendida por cierto el aceite Shell clavus 68 .
Muy buen trabajo mis respetos por alguien que trabaja muy duro para que sus máquinas estén en condiciones.
Te saludo afectuosamente Carlos desde Buenos Aires Argentina
That lathe will probably outlive more modern lathes.
Enjoyed the process and the video.
Thanks for sharing.
Michael (from Scotland)
Glad to hear that motor running so smoothly!
I'm a retired (42 years) R&D prototype machinist that used to have the Leblond version of that very lathe. Careful taking the shift mechanism apart! Lots of small parts that can be lost or reassembled incorrectly.
I really enjoyed watching this video since I've been out of the game for nearly 3 years now.
Have fun with that beautiful old lathe!❤
That lathe also resembles a COLCHESTER lathe I worked on many years ago, the twin gear selection levers were the same. I retired at 55 some 20 years ago, so the time I spent on small lathes was many years before that. I did use one for race engine lightning parts years later though. A very handy little lathe indeed. I ended up on VTLs for years then went on to 5 AXIS fully CNC machining centres for a few years. I ended up working far too hard so I retired - lol
I was saying NO leave that alone! When he pulled the shift head off. Just getting the linkage and shift dogs in the correct place is challenge enough, much less if they dropped out any detents or springs. Not a job for someone who seems to have a few hammers and pry bars and an adjustable wrench.
❤😂@@takedeadaim8671
Love LaBlond's.
I lost two fingers, well they did so them back on and they work but I can't play guitar anymore I can't feel them anymore. There are very important rules for a reason and you are right I was almost having a heart attack when he had his head by that moving gear it's insanely stupid and this guy is not a stupid person it took me almost losing two fingers terminally to fully respect these machines it was the most painful thing that I ever witnessed and I don't want to do it again heaven your fingers yanked off is horrifyingly painful I am so lucky they were able to fix them
I will watch every episode that you put out . Fixing machine tools or wheeled equipment is no matter to me. The longer the better.
You absolutely are not afraid to try and fix anything. Your diagnostic and repairing skills are at a very high level.
New life in an old machine... so good !!
Maybe the lower drain plug is not connected to the recirculating pump to allow a small amount of water and sludge to settle out of the recirculating oil. This will insure that the transmission is only operating only on oil. Automotive transmissions collect sludge in the bottom of the pan because the pickup of slightly above the bottom of the pan. I would not change the drain plug to a tee.
I think you are right and possibly a good idea to add a tap on this outlet so you can drain off a controlled amount
I agree with bitpit, I wouldn't have a clue tbh, but that was the first thing I thought of.
I also wouldn't stress too much about changing that oil too too often, that machine was made to run with a very specific oil and to run for a very specific amount of hours. If he goes and changes it every 2 hour it runs, he will end up ruining that gearbox.
I was thinking the same because it has a separate tray it comes out of, you can see the tray or box from underneath it where he connected the 1/2 pipe to drain it. should be a valve their instead of a plug.
I can't beleive that motor was running with all that crap in it! What was even more mind blowing was that all they did was to clean it out, wire wheel the rust off, put some heat shrink on all the wires, and change the bearings. An it still worked when they put it back together!!! I thought that no one would selvage that motor without having to re wire the whole thing. Brilliant!! 😂😂😂😂😂😂 Nicely done guys 👍👍👍👍👍👍
As long as the crud was non-conductive and non-magnetic, the issue would be heat.
Quality motor. We need to get back to that as a nation.
Was thinking the same damn thing. I’m surprised there was no sparking/arching on those coils in that motor after all that corrosion.
That crap was probably asbestos, used in old electric motors on the field windings 😮😢
I really enjoy these long format videos on repairing old iron!!!! Also would love to see a few rescue missions again!!! Nothing beats getting a timeless machine running again in the woods or a dusty barn. Keep them coming and I’ll keep watching
Great, but why the same shielded bearings and not Rubber sealed bearings and no sealant at electrical outer box where there was a gasket originally, and by the way that corrosion would most likely be the coolants fault.
I ran lathes and milling machines for 10 years and enjoyed this video. If I had that lathe now I could make some cool stuff.
Very inspiring, I have a 20 year old Jet lathe that I'm very fond of, I don't have the money for a new one. After watching one of your videos, I started the repair on my machine. Lucky for me the lathe is made by Jet, I was able to order all the repair parts I needed. It's finished now, and I feel the satisfaction you get when this piece of equipment is working like new. The repair parts around $400, a new lathe was around $3,400. Thanks for your videos, it's the kick in the butt needed to get started.🤓
I have a stupid question
Why didn't you take a part from something you already had?
If you have a bunch of machines and the machines parts are meant to rotate ....sorry this is the second time I had to write it because it deleted the first time
For example you have 6 large machines one machine is broken but the piece you need is "hidden" in a machine you already have...
The air conditioner is broken but the assembly line is
Air conditioner
Washer dryer
Freezer
Water heater
Refrigerator
Dish washer
Sink
Stove
Microwave
------
Oven
Microwave over an oven
The air conditioner is broken and the piece you need is in the let's say water heater but to keep the water heater going you have to arrange or rearrange the entire assembly
And my brain says it could be as simple as cutting the grass while it's wet....
I've seen the air conditioner "turn into" the washer and dryer by flipping and resizing motors pieces and wiring
They keep deleting my messages ....so its not coming out right which is making look more like a stupid dumbass as if it was a stupid question in the get go
So awesome brother!! I am building a small but fairly complete machine shop to support my garage that will specialize in pre WWI race cars. I will start posting videos when it gets warm enough to get out to the barn and start doing some work. Keep up the great job. I need to find a tool room lathe and a vertical mill. I have a Southbend and a horizontal milll so far but they need some work.
Fantastic job you did restoring that broken lathe. It must have a lot of hard work and sweat, not to mention that it was a dirty job. It looks much better and it works like a charm too. You and your partner helped to save it from the scrap yard. Excellent work.
*OMG... I have waited a long time to see one of the many machines, that you got all those years ago, up and working again. 🙂Thank you for doing this video, it has been so worth this long wait.... I looking forward to seeing you working on another of these old machines... to get them all going again and having a full working tool shop... 🙂nz.*
Thank you for treating this beautiful beast with the respect it deserves. Such a beautiful mechanical marvel.
Great video!! Nice job bringing that old Hydrashift back to life! Machines like that dont belong in scrap yards!!!
If that shop was anything like our ancient shop rain would leak through the roof and cover many of the machines. All the exposed areas got cleaned, dried and re-oiled but hidden from sight spots like the motor, junction boxes and electrical panel never got touched leading to rust, peeling paint and similar white deposits.
Thank you , I've been retired now for some years due to health reasons . I enjoyed your program, I almost felt like I was on the job . There are to many people doing jobs they don't like, me on the other hand, enjoyed my job .
I was watching as you shifted through the gears with the top cover off. the oil goes down the gap between the electric box and the case and i'm guessing then through the mounting holes over the years. Its now the end of the vid. What a beautiful old lathe. Cinncinatti is a good known brand too. Its good to see it working. One of my friends bought himself a "Denbigh" Colum drill press. Its an antique. Its all flat belt drive and fantastic castings, a thing of beauty. It even came with a box of No 3 Morse taper drill bits up to 2 inch and a regular 5/8 drill chuck. It hasnt even got a drill hole in the table. It was built in the days when you didn't have safety regulations regarding exposed belts and the operator was expected to know not to get himself in-between a belt and pulley. Ill see if i can find you a photo.
All of the corrosion inside the motor is from Condensation. The motor being completely sealed I would bet the shop the lathe as used in was kept cool or cold when not in use. Running the lathe would put heat inside the motor. Heat and cold equals condensation that could not evaporate due to the air tight design.
That is an excellent motor, well worth the rebuild.
I love all sorts A to Z.
Shop,motoring,normal hand work.
Like to see it all .
Thanks
👍🏻👌🏻❤🙏🏻
One word WOW! I'm amazed at your knowledge and abilities. Great job, I could watch all night.
Im not really into spanners, engines and metalwork but your videos are fascinating, well done for the excellent content.
Love it. Thankful to see it refurbished and running.
You have an excellent lathe on your hands. You did an excellent job of diagnosing the issues the machine had, that electric motor looks as if it set with water in it for a period of time, another possibility is that it set in a very humid area and condensation from temp changes over the years built up the corrosion, nice job of salvaging the motor. Thanks for tag along video sir, really enjoyed watching the lathe salvage.
I Agree! All that white crap looks like Aluminum corrosion - and Oil does NOT make aluminum corrode - WATER DOES. If the lathe had been stored anywhere humid - water could have built up in that sealed motor and done all that damage.
@@normmcrae1140 My thought is that it was dried coolant. Coolant seeping in through the jacket of the power wires and being evaporated away by the motor's heat.
@@robertbackhaus8911 Definitely a good possibility! He DID say that the coolant was water-based.
I love your work ethic, I don’t know you but from what I’ve seen on your videos you are not afraid of WORK
Add a valve to the oil drain pipe you installed under the headstock, then attach a flexible hose pipe to the valve, this will make it easier to service the next time you want to drain the oil from the headstock into a bucket etc. Also add strong magnets to the lower part of the headstock they will capture any errant ferrous material that is resident inside the headstock, check the magnets whenever you change the oil, this can save a lot of expensive repairs.
Good advice, I reckon. Also, I would *not* tee the lower drain to join with the higher outlet to the filter. I consider the lower drain is what should be used to a) empty the sump periodically of any accumulated heavier-than-oil content, such as metallic wear debris and condensed atmospheric water vapour
b) empty the entire headstock when an oil change eventually falls due
Wonder what the oil change interval would be for this. Or even if there is one.@@Gottenhimfella
@@lukula2934 Unless the headstock runs hot, like over about 60C (generally due to excessive preload on the axial bearings of the main spindle) there will generally be very little oxidation of premium oil; I think it's largely a function of wear detritus, and water condensation. The latter might only be a detrimental factor in an industrial lathe located in the vicinity of acid or other corrosive fumes, which could have been dissolved in atmospheric water vapour and build up in the oil over the years. This would be signalled by high levels of surface corrosion on unprotected cast iron or steel surfaces outside the headstock.
If it's just pure water vapour condensing in the headstock, it will accumulate at the bottom of the sump and can just be drained off at regular intervals.
If the lathe is on a ship, it would be more problematic as the motion of the ship could keep re-emulsifying it.
Wear detritus can be monitored over time by comparing the colour of a sample drawn from the headstock with a small glass bottle saved from the same filling source and kept away from light.
If the oil remains clear, does not become tacky or develop a different odour, and there is no detectable colour change, my untutored feeling is that there should be no need to change it regardless of age.
It's a very different use case from (say) an IC engine.
Great job, l love taking things and fixing them up myself. Satisfaction of making them work and worthwhile again. Good job,
Hi there Salvage Workshop, i just wanted to tell you how impressed i was with your workmanship and problem solving skills. you really need to know, common sense isn't that common at all but you have that skill in leaps and bounds. great episode today buddy really great work. im looking forward to the next journey. you take care brother and thankyou for sharing this lathe work it was fantastic.
Thank you Ben! I appreciate it! I think we need to start teaching a bit more common sense, and a lot less usless facts in schools these days, but who am I to say such a thing!
I do believe that anyone can learn to do what i do if they're willing to TRY and they really WANT to do it! I didnt always know how to do petty much ANYTHING you see me do on the channel, but i wasnt afraid to fail, which leads to the confidence to DO ANYTHING!
That applies to doing anything in life!
Thanks for watching, i truly appreciate the support! Lot's more to come!
What an amazing piece of history and engineering that gearbox is. wow!
On the gear noise issue when you loosened the bolt it stopped making the rubbing noise so there could be a tight spot in the rotating assembly that it clamps. perhaps the washer is distorted. Also remember you are spinning straight cut gears pretty fast on a pulley with long spokes so there may well be a harmonic involved. you might try bluing up the rotating assembly and seeing if there is a tight spot that shows up just spinning by hand. Double thumbs up for bringing a great lathe back to life.
Always good to see an old lathe get some love.
For future reference, a tool that works great for rust removal on the stator and armature is a "pummie" a small stick of pumice.
Just goes to a show you what some time, a lot of patience, ingenuity and know-how can accomplish anything! Great work! Great video, thanks.
That is a very interesting lathe! Also props to the people that designed and built that motor!
I own a 1944 14" L&S model A, this lathe looks ultra high tech in comparison... funnily enough it was incorrectly listed as a Cincinnati lathe... love it to bits.
LOVE watching you save these old incredible machines your knowledge always amaze.. Thanks for the great vidio.
That motor was more of an Archaeological dig than a restoration , nice job you have brought a large chunk of metal back to a very pre stable and usable machine 👍
That's a 3 phase motor. The segments on the rotor need no electrical connection. Rotation is caused entirely by the magic of the MAGNETIC fields created by the 120 degree phasing of the 60Hz 3 phase power. (As an EE I too am pretty amazed the motor actually ran so well! Luckily that white aluminum oxide is a good electrical insulator 🙂)
When that old Cincinnati was new there were probably a bunch of people standing around to watch it operate like a new CNC machine today, the most modern technology 😊
Now it's old and I STILL have a bunch of people "tuning in" to check out that same technology! Pretty cool!
I really like what you do, I also like the fact that you are teaching your brothers and us about these machines
I am a retired tool and die maker. There is a couple other reasons why there could be oil in the box. It could have got there by someone putting their oil can on top of the lathe, and oil could have got spilt, and simply just drained into the electrical box. Now I know what you're saying before I go forward.but The oil is kept in the pan yes it is but it is a different type of oil then what you normally would use if you are threading a piece of metal. Oil in the pan is soluble oil, oil that would have been kept on top of the ladies would be called cutting oil. Or tap magic there's a few different types of Orioles that used on a machine. The second way how the oil could have been in the electrical box even a soluble oil when the machine is running the head is spinning and it could easily have been a mist of oil being put in the air may be bouncing off the wall and over years and years dripping down into the electrical box. It very well could be there is no leak in the electrical box you just need to make sure them to scenarios don't happen, now as far as their jaws go. Measured the hardened jaws that you have. make three blocks that are the same size mill the slots on the backside of them the exact same depth with and length, drill the two holes onto the top with a Bridgeport for you can put your bolts in. Put them on the laid bring all jaws together drill a good size center whole through the jaws. Simply put a tool bit in the late or a boring bar to make it ID turning tool to make it OD port what they call a spider in the middle of all three jaws, easy way to make a spider is that you take a big not drill and tap a quarter inch 20 whole three of them for they go into the center of the jaws when you close them, that is how you turn the ODs to whatever size your part is, now 40 ID put a chain around her jaws make sure it's a good strong chain you put it together without bolt and a nut now you are ready to bore out to jaws for an ID hold. Usually you will have many different steps on the jaws for ID or oldie so you can use them jaws for many different jobs these are called blank jaws if you buy them, if you have a Bridgeport or a milling machine, you can do all this work right in-house. :-) At least that is what we use to do in the machine shop trade. The owner would just bite blank jaws and we would make them the correct size for the job we was working on but if you don't want to buy blank jaws you can machine them yourself. Now thinking about it for a 3/8 16 whole into your spider you don't want something very small where you can bend it easily by closing the jaws, but also remember do not go crazy on over tightening the chuck key, nice and snug that's all you need. I'll send you the bill in the mail of the knowledge I just sent to you :-) I hope you understood what I was trying to tell you, Sina a couple of the words that was not properly spelt. But I'm sure you can figure it out if you know anything of machining
Yes, I worked in a large tool grinding facility for 20 years. We used oil based coolant, sprayed from a nozzle at the point where the grinding wheel contacted the work piece. We had hundreds of machines running nearly nonstop. There was oil dripping from everything in the building, and almost no matter how well sealed a compartment, when you opened it…OIL!!!
Another reason oil or coolant can get into the electrical panel is a defective door gasket. When in operation cutting metal coolant spray can migrate into any opening.
Great contribution mate, your experience has to value for this young bloke
I like your theory. But I don't understand why he thinks oil in the electrical box would cause corrosion? I mean there's oil all over this thing and that the only spot it caused damage? I'm thinking water leaked on the box from the shop roof and collected in the box
The fact that water got in the motor makes me believe even more that water got in the electrical box not oil
Have enjoyed this so much that I have just watched it again 👍
P.S. If you have the room to clear the cross slide I would put a valve on your drain with a hose barb. A section of hose can then be used to control the flow wherever you want it for a neat drain process.
This is what you call hard working bad ass machinist. Determent and have a strong will to go through all this. By watching you dealing with all of the crap, but, yet managing this puzzle machine. Hats off. Enjoyed every bit of it. I am sure you will have a lot of fun with this lathe for many years to come. Best of luck.
I think he's a good ass....
another very good film. I admire the way that you deal with each challenge as it appears. You make everything look so easy. Very well done. I like your films, they are ispirational.
They're great for thin wall tubing. Good luck with sealing it up.
Matt, all that tooling especially that collet Chuck system, even the 4 jaw scroll Chuck are so useful and valuable, great to see you getting to the machine tools. Cincinnati is sensational.
He really didn't understand the collet chuck. They don't squeeze "lightly" they squeeze evenly and concentrically. Perfect for chucking round stock. I think he will find that it's perfect for small repetitive jobs and will become one of his favorite chucks.
And that set is expensive!I´ve tried to find one for my lathe,but it´s far out of mu budget.@@davevillaire2990
I have a Cincinnati 13” hydra-shift lathe. Got an awesome deal on it. Needs some minor attention. It was nice to see your video on the problems you worked through and to see inside the beast. I use to run a 17” Cincinnati years ago. I really liked running it. Nice machine.
Thx for posting have the same lathe in 15". Gives me confidence to tear into it too.
I love your channel and enjoy your work! I appreciate all you do to rescue the equipment! My first paying job at $1.10 an hour was in a machine shop with a family friend! I contacted Jim (called him Unkle) a lifetime machinist and there was nothing he couldn't do! I gave him the info of your machine. He has been retired for years and in his 90s now, but still sharp as ever! He said he had one just like it. He stated it has always been his favorite! He doesn't have any machine equipment anymore, but he said he keep all the equipment manuals and manufacturers rebuild manuals. He always did all his own repairs. He said if your interested and he can find all the books and manuals for it he would be honored to give them to you if your interested. Just let me know ( I've told him you would be honored to have the P/W and books and give them life again) hope you don't mind, because it made his day and got really excited about it! So, you'll be make an old machinist very happy. Talking to him sounded like he was giddy about it!😂 I'll keep you informed on his progress. He did mention something about s/n, but he couldn't remember its importance. Keep up the great work and thank you!
I truly appreciate the compliment Mike! It means a lot!
You can tell Unkle Jim that I WOULD be honored to have any literature, manuals, sales brochures, or whatever else he has! Ill happily show the manuals in the next video on the lathe, im sure other people would like to see them!
I really like having ACTUAL manuals for all my old machines, but i don't always get them!
If you could send me an email at salvageworkshop@gmail.com when he finds them, that would be awesome!
Thanks again, i really appreciate it!
Wow, what a beautiful machine, proudly made in America! Back in the day, they truly knew how to craft things, didn't they? This lathe is 66 years old and still works like a charm.
Do you remember RCA Victor, known for the best TVs of that time? Craftsman tools used to be the best as well. When did we lose that pride in saying "Made in America"? Thank you for sharing this great video!
That filter housing is also used on oil furnaces. They use a bit different element, but the same housing. BTW, that motor is what’s called a TEFC. AKA, Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled. Fairly common for industrial applications.
You totally got a gem! It is awesome. Cleaning all the oil channels can be a chore.
My hobby is restoring old antique and vintage machine tools. I suggest you separate the 4 jaw self-centering chuck from its back plate and sell them separately. My Clausing 5913 has a L-00 spindle, and I would love to find a L-00 back plate so I could mount a 4-jaw adjustable chuck. thanks for making this video. Very interesting subject material to me.
The machine is awesome and really enjoyed the video. The best part of all of it for me was seeing a very talented young man working with his head and his hands to work through some problems and accomplish his goal. Gives me a little bit of hope for the future. Coming from many generations of mechanics and spending 60 years at it myself, can tell you, you’re what our family calls “unicorns with dirt under their fingernails”. Not many around! Thanks!
Was working with a hydraulic tech with a lot of experience. He placed a small powerful magnet near the sump intake that grabs particles from going through the system. I guess you would have to periodically pull the magnet out and clean off the particles. He ordered the magi nets from Grainger, but you could find them many places…
Enjoy every bit of it. Thanks, watching from the UK 🇬🇧
Not sure if you noticed, but there was a paper type gasket on the motor wire connection box when you opened it. Probably should make yourself a replacement gasket for that, eh?
one of the best videos you have ever made i like the way you start and finish in one video explaining in detail as you go keep up the good work
Love your tenacity Matt, always willing to find out what the issue is and to put it right.👍 The work that you've done on it, it's going to last another 50 years. If you want any help with lathes, make contact with Curtis from CCE over in Australia, he's a bit of a lathe expert. Couldn't believe the state of that motor, the last time I found something like that it was under a washing machine, that one though had to go to the great motor graveyard. 😂
I subscribed after watching this video , you remind me of me , only your starting at a lot younger than me . When working on old machines I'll get stuck sometimes and ask my self why am I doing this , but when you figure it out and get it fixed it is very rewarding so I understand your excitement . Hey now you have tools to fix other tools . I'm glad I found your channel , I look forward to see what else you have in the future , thanks for the videos .
A couple of observations if you don’t mind: firstly, that 4 jaw self centering Chuck is probably your best Chuck. It can hold round or square stock equally as efficiently and, if I’m correct, has a centering adjustment feature that allows precise adjustment. Secondly, as you mentioned a rusty deposit in the electrical panel, I would suspect that coolant has been making its way past the door seal and , over the years has evaporated. The types of oil used in lathes isn’t likely to cause rusting, whereas coolant is usually mixed with water which, if left in a closed space, will cause severe rusting.
ARE YOU JOKING? The three jaw chuck is clearly better. I bet you use the metric system. 🙄
@@GardenGuy1942 Faceplate or bust, you 3-jaw using commie. 😠
@@GardenGuy1942 if you think stating that someone uses metric is a bad think, it’s just dumb metric is better by far and I grew up learning imperial
@@aslofiasitcanget2945 I had a stroke reading your comment.
@@GardenGuy1942 it’s not hard to read, maybe it’s time for the nursing home🤷♂️
Yeah baby! Beautiful! What an incredible mess in that motor. Wow! Good Job! It is amazing how much "broken" stuff gets thrown away all for a lack of a little elbow grease, maintenance, and ingenuity.
Hi, always look forward to watching your longer mechanical and engineering videos. Keep up the good work.
I'm glad you saved it.
I always enjoy your videos. The projects you tackle are amazing. I was never any good at mechanic work. Keep them coming.
Master of unobtanium gaskets... now making unobtanium parts.
Not quite the same, but I bought a 3d printer that I have already made several unobtanium parts with. Designing the parts in CAD, spitting them out and having them fit properly is pretty rewarding.
The second sump may be a spot for heavies to settle. I'd leave it as you have it.
Great job Matt.
Retired farmer here, tore into lots of different mechanisms throughout the years, and always enjoyed figuring out how different machines worked. The old machines were rougher built, but in my experience were more robust and durable. Not as fancy, efficient, or fast? Probably. Not as convenient? For sure. Made to pass down to the next generation? You better believe it! Congratulations on your lathe, all of my above statements apply to what you now have. Great video. (Only cringe moment I had was when you were listening to that bushing on that larger gear, I closed my eyes thinking about your beard getting caught). I like the way you think, stay safe, blessing to you!
As others have already mentioned here, there are at least two different kinds of lubricant used on lathes, milling machine's, facers, and line boring machines - if you dont count the different varieties of greases for screw drive threads of course, there is Lubricant oil which is like the oil used in the differential of your car and is water insoluble, and there is Cutting oil which IS water soluble and is used to keep the cutting edges cooled to both prevent friction hardening of the work peice and the cutting tool from chattering or blunting as a consequence, all of which being highly undesirable in a finely tolerenced work piece,
by the looks of the insides of your electrical panel it was soluble oil that was penetrating the box as seen in the way it flecked the enamel paint off the inside of the box....the water element in the cutting lubricant doing that obviously... I would also speculate some balloon forgot to turn the coolant tube off at sometime in the distant past and allowed it to pour all over the cabinet and run down onto the motor directly below it was what caused all that aluminium corrosion to build up and the bearings to rust, gear oil being incapable of doing anything like it, what ever you DONT mix or confuse the two types, as here or there is likely to be big consequences.
If I were you I would trace through and draw a schematic diagram, of where BOTH types of lubricants should live within the machine and where they are channelled, filtered,stored etc. lube oil obviously needing to be stored in a none accidently accessable area, whereas water diluted cutting oil which also carries away swarfe should be in an open system. and sumped at the base of the machine. well done on the overhaul by the way, a job very competantly done.
*"there is Lubricant oil which is like the oil used in the differential of your car and IS NOT water insoluble,"*
@@marcosmota1094 Was that meant to be a correction of something I said or a reinforcement of same ??
you appear to use quotation marks indicating it was a direct quote, which it obviously wasnt,
as I am perfectly aware of the different hygroscopic properties of, and the uses for, water miscible and non miscible lubricants
.I have yet to hear of one single example of an extreme pressure oil that is miscible to water being used as a pure lubricant or for that matter its point, perhaps I'm wrong. if so please enlighten this poor engineer of nearly fifty years of experience. the only products I can think of that DO encapsulate water are engine oils which deliberately use polymer modifiers to turn any water in them into the white scummy residue you find inside a rocker cover, but that is deliberate encapsulation for the purposes of removing the water from the lubricant.
I think that you left out a word in the first part of your sentence...soluble v. *not* soluble lubricants. Other readers might be equally confused (despite your upvotes)@@usernamesreprise4068
I've been matching for 50 yrs.Thats a nice machine.Always be Safe.
Hell of a long video, but I can't say enough about your talent, persistence, video editing, quality of the video, I just can't say enough ! I'm jealous !!! Simply wonderful !
Really enjoyed this. Thanks for showing!
I don’t think you want that really fine powdery metal to go through the filter. It’s better to let it settle in the lower sump and clean it out occasionally.
That's what I was thinking.
I love watching you repair old equipment. Wish I could do that now but I’m just too old and crippled to do such a thing. But I will keep watching you make old things new again and I will be happy watching your pleasure in restoring old things that someone thought was useless. Keep up the passion as I will also.
Me too!@@mikemarriam
Throw a magnet in the sump also.
Sumps in lathes are for catching heavy particles ,there should be a magnet in there two .If you are going to use the lathe 12 hours a day ,you need to service it regular there will be a scheduled somewhere ,internet or annual somewhere ,if occasional use only change ,filter clean once every few year.
this is a nice lathe but the hydraulic shifting is a very expencive point of failure if you ask me , im only in the industry for 5 years now so i might be speaking out off my ass and very used to the 3 lever shift system (high/low . x/y . and then the third lever has 3 positions and the speeds listed) , the coke insulated the wires , personally would have sent the motor away for rewinding as it would mostlikely be down on power , fresh seals making proper contact on the shaft usually arent free spinning even if lubricated with some grease .GRAT VIDEO!
Great save on the motor and gear train! Looking forward to you making parts!
Thanks for taking us on this journey!
Huge props to you and your brothers for getting that thing running again. Such an impressive bit of engineering in that gearbox. Be careful with the gear meshing on the backgears; sounds like you are trying to mesh them tight but there usually needs to be a calculated amount of backlash or you are going to have a lot of premature gear wear. Have to admit there was a lot of puckering going on every time you stuck your ear to those backgears and watched your lovely beard get ever closer to those belts...
Hahahahaha you read my mind mate, i was cringing too, also when he was machining that tool and was getting closer to check the finish and his beard was really close to the chuck. That's the type of mistake you will only ever make once! :) Got to admit though, when your in the heat of a project, its so easy to forget things like that. Id say 90% of my mishaps have been when ive been in the zone and not paying as much attention to my surroundings as i should have been. But yeah i would defo either tie that beard up, or use some sort of cover on it, can you imagine the damage if it was to get caught up! wow! :(
Good thing that aluminum oxide doesn't conduct electricity!
I could show you a photo of my thumb after it went through the gears on an old 12" craftsman lathe. I was trying to wipe off excess lube and using a folded up paper towel. Gears grabbed it and sucked it into the gears an before i could let go my thumb went through. Bad deal, should have known better.
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Did not stop to consider that my thumb could be drawn in before i could let go. My thumb is fine now but it took a long time to heal and the end looked like ground up hamburger. Doctor said oh don't worry lol, that will heal up just fine... and it did.
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Was so torn up he could not even stitch it. After I seen it I really thought the last 1/2" of my thumb was going to have to be removed. it was opened the same way the end of a grape would be of you sat the grape on a cutting board and whacked it hard, the end will shred and pop open with pieces hanging every which way. thumbnail torn off and blood spurting.
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Yes I am being kinda graphic to drive home to everyone who reads this... don't get close to running lathe gears. They munch human flesh like a meat grinder munches meat and puts out hamburger. because I was smart, happened to me.
@@robert5 I'm in a CNC Operator certificate program right now... they push the safety thing all the time... they need to have a class of graphic pictures and stories, case studies if you will, on injuries and fatalities in the shops... I'm a 55 year old helicopter instructor/maintenance test pilot, back in school, and think back to driver's ed when I was in high school. They showed the graphic stuff to scare us straight. These machines don't care one bit what gets in their way; they'll just munch it up. Glad you recovered from that...
@@robert5 Absolutely correct - human flesh and bone is no match for steel. Or most metals for that matter! While I have all my digits, I used to work for an engineering firm where one of the guys which operated the sheet lasers had some mangled fingers with one half of one missing. He foolishly had stuck his hand into a small punch press of some kind in an attempt to pull out some pieces of metal and down it went, mangling his fingers. He could still use that hand but his thumb and two fingers were permanently disfigured aside from the one that was half missing. The doctors had to amputate the missing half. The others didn't have to be cut off but the joints were crushed thus the disfigurement. He had partial use which was good but it did hinder him to a certain degree. He was a living, breathing example of why you never put any body parts into a machine like he did... and is why they teach you to power off plus engage in the lock out/tag out process. The irony was that he had the ability to grab onto and use some super long needle-nose pliers in an attempt to fish out the metal but for some reason he didn't use them. He was in agreement that it could have been worse but he had nobody to blame but himself. The moral of the story is to keep your wits about you... make sure you know what you're doing and follow the path of true safety when working on any machinery. Best wishes!
- Max Giganteum
WOW, a great video with a ton of educational content. You never cease to amaze me with your approach and diagnosis skills. Thanks for posting and take care!
Have the motor rebuilt for safety reason's.
You have a great machine. I used to work for Cincinnati, the mod 17 is a very good unit
reasons, not “reason’s”.
Very well done!
Nasty work with no guarantee, but when everything comes together thanks to persistence, skill, knowledge and LUCK,
it does make you smile with satisfaction and pride!
Nice machine! Don't forget to grease that large gear - they don't like to run dry, even with the correct meshing. Ideally you'd have zero clearance between the gears but in order to ensure there is no radial preload, it's normal to have a small clearance. It'll sound a lot smoother and last longer.
Great Job on the diagnostics and repair work.
Years ago I worked at a machine shop, and any time that we did cleaning on a lathe, we would use varsol to clean the equipment, and once we finished the cleaning process we would coat everything in basically air tool oil.
Great lathe in superb shape, and awesome fix 👍. Congrats on both of those machines.
I was built in 1959.
Wish I looked half as nice!
I wonder if the white gunk is asbestos? I’d be SUPER careful with that stuff. She’ll be a real sweetheart when you get her running. Super premium machine!
When he said it was an aluminum box, I thought of electrolysis due to dissimilar metals, possibly copper and aluminum.
I have the same lathe. Different size, but you actually showed me how I’ve been changing the speeds incorrectly. I stop, then roll through the gears. I’m subscribing, great content! Ping us when you add you add the DRO!
Awesome vid. Please share more of these. Good work. I love troubleshooting especially when you find the issues. Thanks
As a Metalwork/ Woodwork teacher for 20 yesrs here in Australia I instilled in students SAFETY. Can you please review all the comments written here and take advice from people in industry or education. The breaches of safety have been mentioned and can you present your content with safety in mind. You are completely at ease with spinning pulleys and gears but the likelihood of an accident is clearly evident. Safety is paramount to getting the job done. In all my career the worst I've endured is a small cut to my hand otherwise I have no injuries. Please show safe methods of work by example.
I'm glad somebody gave voice to this, I keep seeing red beard hairs in the gears.
I think I will never own or work on a machine like that, but it's great watching you doing it!
👍👍👍
Awesome that you found the roll pin and key problem by poking around and feeling. Nice gasket. Thumbs up on the electric motor. How about very carefully brushing on a bit of grey paint?
Great to see an engineering craftsman at work. Even down to making his own gasket, takes me back to my appreticeship days ☝
Very nice! Not your first rodeo with a lathe. I like the fitted work table you made to protect the bed ways. As always, excellent work.
(at 1:19:00) UFF DA! Don the safety glasses 👓😎my good man when the oil begins to fly out of the top! Protect your vision. It is truly a precious thing! 😋 btw... loved the video! 👍 I know nothing about the inner workings of a lathe so this was a fascinating video for me. The electric motor rebuild was a great bonus on top of the lathe tour.