Safety wise I would never have put the controls in such a tight spot. If this lift where to fail or the vehicle becomes unbalanced one could be pinned between the vehicle and the wall. This would likely prove to be fatal. Since you were running longer hose to one side anyway, I would have put the pump and controls on the rear wall where you could more easily escape if a car starts to fall. This would also give you more equal hose lengths. I have two four post lifts and the controls are at a corner where one can easily escape in case of failure. It is much more rare for a car to fall of a four post lift, but I have seen dozens of videos of cars falling off of two post lifts. If you watch those videos you would not ever think of being so trapped when lifting a vehicle.
ive had this lift for almost 2.5 years now and it is single-handedly one of the best things i've ever bought for my garage. Also side note for everyone with this lift, get a heavy duty grease or a paste type white lithium (not the spray type) and apply it in each of the lift posts on the inside channels. The instructions are honestly super unclear and after a while, the lift becomes very shakey and rough without lubing those inner points up. It is not like a traditional lift and I would recommend doing it at least once a year where you wipe down as much of the old grease and apply new grease. Also, make sure to always put on the locks and check the hydraulics every now and then to make sure they aren't leaking.
I've worked with anchors in concrete for over 55 years. The wedge anchors included by the equipment manufacturer are only as good as the concrete their being set into. Most residential garage floors are at best is 3,000 psi concrete, most likely less and 4" thick, maybe and just maybe they added re-enforcing wire. The concrete is the weak link in the whole system. Anchors should be spread out no closer than 6" a part, which the manufacturer did. I'm sure in the instructions they had a disclaimer regarding the concrete integrity to cover themselves. Before you buy this product check the depth of your floor and how hard it is to drill. The safest thing to do is cut a 4ft by 4ft opening under each post and place 4ft deep steel re-enforced deadman dowelled into the existing concrete. Remember, concrete is very strong in compression but very weak in tension "pull". This lift system puts the concrete in tension.
I've had this jack for 5 years now, purchased because of low ceiling. No problems what so ever, mounted pump and tank on the lift post with metal tabs I fabricated and attached , looks cleaner, highly recommend!
Bought my MaxJax almost 4 years ago. Love it. Don't worry about not raising up perfectly level. Mine never has. I did set the anchors in two positions. Highly recommend anchoring adhesive. I am surprised that you didn't hit any rebar. I used 1/2" rebar 16" on center when building. Made sense before having to drill for the anchors. 🤯
A comment or two.... the rear bolts in the floor are in tension not compression. There are no front bolts as the base plate is compressed against the floor underneath hence developing the moment resistance coupling to resist the moment for the load on the lift arms. Therefore the strength of the lift posts for rotating towards the car depends greatly on the tensile bolts strength but more so on the tensile strength of the concrete. Does not matter how big are the anchor bolts, the concrete tensile resistance governs the ultimate strength. The anchor in the concrete engages an imaginary cone in the concrete when subjected to pull forces and resist the pullout by shear friction in the concrete. The thicker the concrete the higher the shear resistance. The cone developed under the pull forces (tension) must not be interrupted by a crack in concrete nor by the concrete edge. Your anchors for the post against the wall may be too close to the edge and therefore may not develop the full pullout force resistance, from the video they appear to bee about 3" away or so. If your garage slab was poured after the walls were built, floating floor, you may have to check the edge distance. If the floor was poured over the foundation walls prior to the walls above being constructed you may be OK. MaxJax manual should have a minimum edge distance specified. (also check a video of a guy with a failed anchors) I have the same lift but older model with a safety bar that you push through the holes in the posts to act as a safety. I also installed levels (for leveling the fence posts) which I can check to see if the posts are plumb in both directions front to back and left to right when I lift the load, every time. There will be some movement on the posts (bubble in the level moves but stay within the plumb area) due to the load acting on the arms and creating the moment (torque) on the arms that are transferred to the posts. The posts must be installed vertically with no load. Due to the garage floor slope you may need to shim the posts bases to bring them to a vertical position. Good luck.
True portable lift would be the scissor type. Can't remember the name of top of my head. They just slide under the frame or pinch weld on each side and lift. About the same size as the four ramps he used.
I have the old Danmar MaxJax. Except for keeping the lifting equal it’s been great. I lift my 2012 Silverado crew cab. Another option for not unbolting the driver side post, take the arms off and hang on the wall. The arms get in the way more than the post.
I have the previous version of the MaxJack and love it. Don't really miss the higher lift possible with the higher lifts. Purchased a low rolling chair to perform work under the car. Used the MaxJack when I changed the transmission on my Mercedes 500SL and when I was restoring my '80 Corvette. I also was able to install a side mount garage door opener and highly recommend one if you have the capability. It also picks up my Chevy Tahoe and '86 Mercedes 300SDL with ease
Exactly my thoughts. this new 7k rating really appeals to me. Mustang, F-150 and soon a newer F-150. It will pick-up all 3 of these vehicles and as you said, just get a rolling chair.
Brian you do such nice work . I worked in a shop that had symmetrical lifts we got in the habit of pulling up to the lift and rolling the windows down and putting the car in neutral and pushing it between the posts .
I killed a couple of cheap hammer drills before I broke down and rented and real rotary hammer and did it in minutes. As you know, the right drill made it a lot easier. The garage looks fantastic. Having a lift at home for doing body work is something I wish I'd done ages ago. Saves the knees and back a lot of pain. On single garage doors like that you can move the opener over to the side and the door will still function normal. Congrats on the new lift
I purchased the 7K and had to put in another 2k to make it work and be safe. Did 24 inch square base plates 5/8 . Then replaced the movable parts of the arms to extend them to actually work.
Once you go lift you never go back. Have had mine 4 years now and cant go without it. You see things with a lift you never knew existed. I'm into vintage Caddy's and Lincoln's. So I got a 10,000 lb one
Great demo. Only tip is make sure that the lock has not been released before going under any vehicle. When you demo’ed the creeper, I noticed the locks were unlocked. Just a safety FYI for you.
In the case of a garage installation in a "home" where the concrete is generally less than 4" thick, I'd worry. I measured 2.5 inches in some spots when I cut the floor and elsewhere it was always less than 4" thick. If you are pouring a new floor, make sure it is at least 6" thick or better still, 8". The MaxJax Manual calls for 4" and 4.25" minimum (which is it MaxJax?) and tells you to drill 5.5" deep into concrete. The Wej-It anchor manual calls for a 5 inch deep hole for the PD-58 anchor. I skipped all of that and did my own installation that is now going on over 10 years...and I am still here. LOL
Yeah the common recommendation is to cut the floor, dig out deeper, and repour just to guarentee safety. You don't know how thick that concrete actually is, whether it settled funny when wet, or if it washed out the ground underneath.
@@112428 And that is why I poured a 3' wide by 12' long, 14 inch thick 32 MPa concrete slab with rebar running from one side to the other and crossways as well and then sunk 304L stainless steel plates each with 304L stainless steel rods that are welded to the plates and threaded for the 5 bolt holes in the MaxJax. The concrete was allowed to slow dry for 28 days with wet burlap on it. Not a single crack at any joint.
the bolts and anchors would probably lift the house. A sized spread footing catching both posts with a nice mass of reinforced concrete would be a good idea
You could’ve just bought a couple of car ramps the type the dealers use in front of their dealerships and get the same height for a fraction of the cost and aggravation of the installation plus they’re fully portable easily movable by one person. And they never fail and there’s no maintenance or oil leak to deal with.
Are you planning on getting a wall mount garage door lift for more clearance. About four fifty to five hundred hundred bucks at menards for a Chamberlain eliminates that damn track and unit hanging down in the way
Nice addition to the garage. Garage looks amazing. Just so you know, you can relocate the garage opener to the side or even raise it up higher to gain more height.
because: Liftmaster 8500 Jackshaft opener. went with one of those immediately when I remodeled my garage knowing I had ZERO room if I ever wanted to lift a car up in the future.
You have some diamond balls. You show how to release the locks then proceed to roll under the car with the ergo chair. You can see them still unlocked in the video. And I feel nervous getting under my Mustang with 6 jack stands!
Very slick! Great video man. I'm envious of both the two-car garage AND the lift. Couple observations: You can't do this as it appears your garage doors are butted right against the side walls, but for those with the extra width, wall-mounted door openers are a great option to get more overhead lifting space. Also, ideally it's good to know where your car's center of gravity is to adjust the front and rear lifters so that your weight distribution is 50/50. Might also be a good idea to get height extended jack stands for each end, just to be extra safe.
Good idea to wear safety glasses when pulling nails or cutting steel binding bands. A man at work cut a steel band. It sprung back and took his eye out. Also wear them when using power tools.
If using one where you don't trust the concrete remember steel beam harvested by demolition companies is easy to find. I welded a (large) H from heavy beam to support m full size two post lift outdoors on earth. That way the posts cannot tip inwards because the supporting H base ties them together. You can pour concrete around the frame or dig a H-shaped trench with a trenching shovel (trenching shovels are wonderful) to set it into the ground. On soft ground consider railroad gravel as a base that doesn't crush below the H-frame. If you don't weld remember heavy bolting is used by ironworkers every day for heavier loads.
There is a joke in that intro... How many painters does it take to open a MaxJax crate? Too many! That thing is packed like it's a nuclear warhead. Good to see they take their shipping protection serious. Congrats on the lift. Once you start using it you will become a prima donna never wanting to lie on the garage floor again. It only took me 2 days to become one and now I complain if I have to get on the floor. It is not pretty. A couple of points based on my experience with my Bendpak. The round pads get damaged quickly with the pinch weld lift points. I made some pinch weld standoffs matching a spare tire jack. If you want any info let me know. They work well. For the down position arm free movement, you can double sided tape spacers under where the pins touch so they all release when fully down so you do not need to lift the release pin. It looks like you have some attic space to change the garage door tracks to angle up and reposition the opener to get more height. I know that is a lot of work cutting out a section of the ceiling for the door/tracks, but it will allow you to utilize the full lifting height capacity.
Why didn’t you get scissor lift? 2post lifts block some panels, making it impossible for bodywork. Scissor lift lifts from bottom and does not block any side panels. Just curious
Very nice. I’d worry about the amount of leverage on those bolts. I’d prefer a wider foot print and/or the pillar extending to the ceiling to be secured into ceiling beams. Both of those of course effect portability but safety first. Ignoring that, if you want more lift height, look at 1) high lift conversion on that end door and 2) jack shaft door opener. You can get another foot or more of overhead range. As long as you don’t open the door, you don’t need the high lift door but your torsion bar at present likely doesn’t have the space for a jackshaft opener on either side. You’ll probably be ok for opener space after doing a high lift conversion.
Great video! I would love to get one of those installed in my DIY garage and appreciate the way you explained all aspects. Your shop is immaculate, I can easily follow a man’s suggestions when his shop and business are that clean and orderly 😎! I just need 2 things to get one of these 1. Money 2. Time 😂 Thanks again for informative video
In my situation, since my wife also has a garage door remote, if you lower the g-door for more clearance, I would recommend pulling the door opener safety release to prevent sweet heart remote button pushin accidents. LOL .. Nice video :-)
Thanks for sharing the install. Might want to buy a garage door low headroom conversion kit to give you some more height, along with convert the door to manual lift to get rid of the automatic door lift.
Brian I’ve noticed on some of the building channels they keep a few wood blocks handy to put on to the lift pads (when they are lifting cars with low sill body styles)
What You’ll Need to Check to Install Your MaxJax: Concrete Slab Thickness (4.25” or more) Concrete-MaxJax Indoor Installation Only Concrete-No More Than 3-degree Slope Concrete-Compressive Strength 3,000 psi or Greater MaxJax Lift Location Overhead Clearance, Approach Clearance, and Obstructions Concrete Condition (no significant cracks or defects, especially under lift pillars) Traditional Slab or Post-Tension Cable Slab type verified Note-MaxJax hold-down bolts/anchors require 90 ft-lb tightening torque
THE FLIP FLOP CLUB AROUND HEAVY EQUIPMENT, NICE LIFT BUT FOR THOSE OF US WITH BACK ISSUES WE NEED A HIGHER CEILING AND FOR MORE PRACTICAL USES HAVE A MORE OPEN AREA AROUND THE LIFT !!! ENJOY ALL THE VIDEOS YOU POST VERY ,VERY INFORMATIVE !!!! THANK - U BRIAN !!!!
The first thing that jumped out at me with this installation is the placement of the oil pump and control spot where you have to stand to operate the lift , the person is in between the wall and the vehicle , just to me it seems not the safest spot to be while lifting ?
I installed a direct-drive garage door opener which removes the central overhead garage door opening mechanism and allows you to move the vehicle higher.
Love your channel! Great install! Looks neat. I would have mounted pump and controls 2-3 feet to the left away from the car just so not to be in harms way of being crushed against the wall in the odd event of car falling off the lift...just my two cents.
Thanks for pointing out the negatives here. Don’t recommend going under heavy vehicles? Don’t remove and replace the lifts too often? Distant seem worth the hassle.
On the problem with the one side not going all the way down and you needing to lift up on the catch to move the arms; epoxy a small block of wood the correct height to engage each pin and now when the lift is down the block will push up the pin and you can move the arm. Small 2X4" blocks and 1X4" blocks about 6 or 7" long can be inserted on top of your lift pad to keep the lift arm away from the rocker panels.
only issue is whether the garage concrete is appropriate for the lift. Considering most people don't know.. doubt this is a good solution but it's cool tho. Maybe cutting holes and putting in concrete that can actually support these would be best but then your costs go way up
How thick is your garage floor? What is the recommended thickness? In my FL. County, this would require a permit and inspection. The previous owner of my house installed an RV carport in the backyard. This would be an excellent addition as I only have a small SUV.
I have a bend pack mid rise scissor lift in my home garage and in my opinion it works better for doing body work on there is no posts to deal with and it's completely movable if you wanted but honestly it's not in the way so it stays where it is for the most part and there is no bolting and unbolting to move it way better lift for body work and lifts it just as high if not higher then the max jack
Nice clean install Brian. I prefer a full size lift myself, but I have the space. This looks like a good deal for someone with a standard height garage or minimal space.
Nice u should try the wall mount garage door opener so you can get the most height out of your lift. They are very nice an they are not bad on the pocketbook. Hope u check one out.
Great job! I would max it out with garage door up and mark the position somewhere on the arms and standups. I know my luck I would lift to max height with door down and would at some point raise the garage door and drag the door arm across the roof. You have done an outstanding job on you new work space. keep the videos coming.
@@garypreble1611 true. I would just put a marker tape on the post all according to the length of time it was on the rack. I just know my luck. I can see me raising the car up after door is closed and the next day hitting the garage door opener.
How thick was the cement floor of the garage? I imagine installing a car lift the floor cement must be much thicker than normal to safely use the jack.
If you leave the car in neutral when it is a few feet from center, you can open the doors all the way and easily get out. Then push the car into position.
You mentioned the capacity of this lift system twice but failed to mention the thickness of the concrete and the strength of the concrete necessary for the installation!!! What is the minimum concrete thickness and the minimum PSI strength of the concrete??!!!
All you need now is change out that overhead door opener to a lift master.All compact at the door.Get full heght with the door down.Cant tell if you can with that overhead opener.Just a idea if you need the space above at the roof
Nice garage. The garage door opener significantly reduces the lift height. I probably would not install a lift in a garage with ceilings that low and made lower with the opener blocking the height.
This is a pretty good setup. I've considered it for my garage too. That chair tho, man.. I would be taking a nap in 30 seconds! :) You've got a pretty great setup going!
You can t be serious...I just bought a full height 4 tonnes lift 2 weeks ago in uk,delivered to my door for short of 2k,and you paid for something that's offering very limited use double??
Won’t be a great quality lift for 2k delivered. I’m in the UK and good quality lifts start around £4000 for 2 post versions. Can get cheap ones for around £1700 but they are very poor quality. Bendpack are good quality so the price is what I’d expect for this one Brian has bought
i have a 2 poster, but for home i would go with a scissor lift, they lay nearly flat, and the posts of a 2 post get in the way. if you do alot of work under the middle of the car then i would go 2 post, but again, for normal servicing i would go scissor.
Nice! I'm jealous of that garage. I would like to get something like that but the major thing stopping me is that I have post-tensioned slab and drilling into the slab is risky of hitting a steel tendon in the concrete....Ka-BOOM!!
my garage height is 290cm and the doors open with side motors. There is room to lift close to the ceiling when the lifting motor is on the rail on the side.
I think it's cheaper to build a stand canal. You can work on vans/trucks as well. You can build it outside and cover it and it would be probably cheaper than the device...
Safety wise I would never have put the controls in such a tight spot. If this lift where to fail or the vehicle becomes unbalanced one could be pinned between the vehicle and the wall. This would likely prove to be fatal. Since you were running longer hose to one side anyway, I would have put the pump and controls on the rear wall where you could more easily escape if a car starts to fall. This would also give you more equal hose lengths. I have two four post lifts and the controls are at a corner where one can easily escape in case of failure. It is much more rare for a car to fall of a four post lift, but I have seen dozens of videos of cars falling off of two post lifts. If you watch those videos you would not ever think of being so trapped when lifting a vehicle.
I totally agree with you. I would never have mounted that on the wall between the car in the wall dangerous
ive had this lift for almost 2.5 years now and it is single-handedly one of the best things i've ever bought for my garage. Also side note for everyone with this lift, get a heavy duty grease or a paste type white lithium (not the spray type) and apply it in each of the lift posts on the inside channels. The instructions are honestly super unclear and after a while, the lift becomes very shakey and rough without lubing those inner points up. It is not like a traditional lift and I would recommend doing it at least once a year where you wipe down as much of the old grease and apply new grease. Also, make sure to always put on the locks and check the hydraulics every now and then to make sure they aren't leaking.
Don't like . Too many issues
I've worked with anchors in concrete for over 55 years. The wedge anchors included by the equipment manufacturer are only as good as the concrete their being set into. Most residential garage floors are at best is 3,000 psi concrete, most likely less and 4" thick, maybe and just maybe they added re-enforcing wire. The concrete is the weak link in the whole system.
Anchors should be spread out no closer than 6" a part, which the manufacturer did. I'm sure in the instructions they had a disclaimer regarding the concrete integrity to cover themselves. Before you buy this product check the depth of your floor and how hard it is to drill. The safest thing to do is cut a 4ft by 4ft opening under each post and place 4ft deep steel re-enforced deadman dowelled into the existing concrete. Remember, concrete is very strong in compression but very weak in tension "pull". This lift system puts the concrete in tension.
I worked in concrete lucky to get 4" depending on who you hire scary people out there!
I've had this jack for 5 years now, purchased because of low ceiling. No problems what so ever, mounted pump and tank on the lift post with metal tabs I fabricated and attached , looks cleaner, highly recommend!
Good to see people wearing their safety flip flops when installing this heavy equipment. Better safe than sorry.
Now you know this wasn’t staged lol
I love my safety flip flops 🤣
I paused to check to see if there were comments on the flip flops and BINGO...First one I saw....haha
came here for that comment
I'm also in looking for the flip flop comments. Gives me the heebies. Even my dress shoes are safety toe. That's my problem though.
Bought my MaxJax almost 4 years ago. Love it. Don't worry about not raising up perfectly level. Mine never has. I did set the anchors in two positions. Highly recommend anchoring adhesive. I am surprised that you didn't hit any rebar. I used 1/2" rebar 16" on center when building. Made sense before having to drill for the anchors. 🤯
A comment or two.... the rear bolts in the floor are in tension not compression. There are no front bolts as the base plate is compressed against the floor underneath hence developing the moment resistance coupling to resist the moment for the load on the lift arms. Therefore the strength of the lift posts for rotating towards the car depends greatly on the tensile bolts strength but more so on the tensile strength of the concrete. Does not matter how big are the anchor bolts, the concrete tensile resistance governs the ultimate strength. The anchor in the concrete engages an imaginary cone in the concrete when subjected to pull forces and resist the pullout by shear friction in the concrete. The thicker the concrete the higher the shear resistance. The cone developed under the pull forces (tension) must not be interrupted by a crack in concrete nor by the concrete edge. Your anchors for the post against the wall may be too close to the edge and therefore may not develop the full pullout force resistance, from the video they appear to bee about 3" away or so. If your garage slab was poured after the walls were built, floating floor, you may have to check the edge distance. If the floor was poured over the foundation walls prior to the walls above being constructed you may be OK. MaxJax manual should have a minimum edge distance specified. (also check a video of a guy with a failed anchors)
I have the same lift but older model with a safety bar that you push through the holes in the posts to act as a safety.
I also installed levels (for leveling the fence posts) which I can check to see if the posts are plumb in both directions front to back and left to right when I lift the load, every time. There will be some movement on the posts (bubble in the level moves but stay within the plumb area) due to the load acting on the arms and creating the moment (torque) on the arms that are transferred to the posts. The posts must be installed vertically with no load. Due to the garage floor slope you may need to shim the posts bases to bring them to a vertical position.
Good luck.
I think calling this thing portable is a bit of a stretch😂😂😂
True portable lift would be the scissor type. Can't remember the name of top of my head. They just slide under the frame or pinch weld on each side and lift. About the same size as the four ramps he used.
@@justinlawrence6790quick jacks? I use to watch goonzquad and they used the quick jacks until they got a lift
Yup
Hey, it came in a box that was forklifted off a truck!
I have the old Danmar MaxJax. Except for keeping the lifting equal it’s been great. I lift my 2012 Silverado crew cab. Another option for not unbolting the driver side post, take the arms off and hang on the wall. The arms get in the way more than the post.
I have the previous version of the MaxJack and love it. Don't really miss the higher lift possible with the higher lifts. Purchased a low rolling chair to perform work under the car. Used the MaxJack when I changed the transmission on my Mercedes 500SL and when I was restoring my '80 Corvette. I also was able to install a side mount garage door opener and highly recommend one if you have the capability. It also picks up my Chevy Tahoe and '86 Mercedes 300SDL with ease
Thanks mark for sharing. Glad to hear it’s working out !!
Exactly my thoughts. this new 7k rating really appeals to me. Mustang, F-150 and soon a newer F-150. It will pick-up all 3 of these vehicles and as you said, just get a rolling chair.
How thick should the concrete be on the garage floor? Did you know how thick yours was before you installed the lift?
Brian you do such nice work . I worked in a shop that had symmetrical lifts we got in the habit of pulling up to the lift and rolling the windows down and putting the car in neutral and pushing it between the posts .
I killed a couple of cheap hammer drills before I broke down and rented and real rotary hammer and did it in minutes. As you know, the right drill made it a lot easier.
The garage looks fantastic. Having a lift at home for doing body work is something I wish I'd done ages ago. Saves the knees and back a lot of pain.
On single garage doors like that you can move the opener over to the side and the door will still function normal. Congrats on the new lift
Been having mine since 2020 the best investment I’ve made for my home garage! No problems at all so far! 🤞
I purchased the 7K and had to put in another 2k to make it work and be safe. Did 24 inch square base plates 5/8 . Then replaced the movable parts of the arms to extend them to actually work.
Once you go lift you never go back. Have had mine 4 years now and cant go without it. You see things with a lift you never knew existed. I'm into vintage Caddy's and Lincoln's. So I got a 10,000 lb one
Great demo. Only tip is make sure that the lock has not been released before going under any vehicle. When you demo’ed the creeper, I noticed the locks were unlocked. Just a safety FYI for you.
Good point!
In the case of a garage installation in a "home" where the concrete is generally less than 4" thick, I'd worry. I measured 2.5 inches in some spots when I cut the floor and elsewhere it was always less than 4" thick. If you are pouring a new floor, make sure it is at least 6" thick or better still, 8". The MaxJax Manual calls for 4" and 4.25" minimum (which is it MaxJax?) and tells you to drill 5.5" deep into concrete. The Wej-It anchor manual calls for a 5 inch deep hole for the PD-58 anchor. I skipped all of that and did my own installation that is now going on over 10 years...and I am still here. LOL
I was thinking the same thing - most home garage floors are not much more than 3 to 4 inches thick, if that much.
Yeah the common recommendation is to cut the floor, dig out deeper, and repour just to guarentee safety. You don't know how thick that concrete actually is, whether it settled funny when wet, or if it washed out the ground underneath.
@@112428 And that is why I poured a 3' wide by 12' long, 14 inch thick 32 MPa concrete slab with rebar running from one side to the other and crossways as well and then sunk 304L stainless steel plates each with 304L stainless steel rods that are welded to the plates and threaded for the 5 bolt holes in the MaxJax. The concrete was allowed to slow dry for 28 days with wet burlap on it. Not a single crack at any joint.
Love the way you assembled heavy metal wearing slippers. It would be nice to see something heavy fall onto his toes!!! Safety first!!!
Hi. Thanks for your comment. I was wearing shoes. Do you want my friends contact info so you can tell them ?
If you're thinking of building a shed it's best to know the total height of car+lift as this will determine which shed kit you need.
Yep
Hopefully you invest in Pinchweld Adapters for this lift. Once that Pinchweld' is damaged, no going back.
Its great when your boys all pitch in to make the dream work! Awesome job!
A lot of trust in those bolts screwed into the floor with that amount of leverage.
the bolts and anchors would probably lift the house. A sized spread footing catching both posts with a nice mass of reinforced concrete would be a good idea
Quickjack vs. Maxjack
@@timeakin1169 I was just thinking about this. So what’s the ideal thickness or depth for a foundation to bolt down the lift posts?
@@videoeditor9104 most lift companies recommend at least 4” thick but 6” is better
It’s the same with any 2 post lift
I have a midget wife who can perform all my mechanical needs using this lift , great vid .
You could’ve just bought a couple of car ramps the type the dealers use in front of their dealerships and get the same height for a fraction of the cost and aggravation of the installation plus they’re fully portable easily movable by one person. And they never fail and there’s no maintenance or oil leak to deal with.
I ain't gonna lie ... I really like your thinking.
Are you planning on getting a wall mount garage door lift for more clearance. About four fifty to five hundred hundred bucks at menards for a Chamberlain eliminates that damn track and unit hanging down in the way
Nice addition to the garage. Garage looks amazing. Just so you know, you can relocate the garage opener to the side or even raise it up higher to gain more height.
because: Liftmaster 8500 Jackshaft opener. went with one of those immediately when I remodeled my garage knowing I had ZERO room if I ever wanted to lift a car up in the future.
You have some diamond balls. You show how to release the locks then proceed to roll under the car with the ergo chair. You can see them still unlocked in the video. And I feel nervous getting under my Mustang with 6 jack stands!
😂😂
Man I would have lifted that last car to its max capability! I have full trust in bendpak! Been using them for years! Best in the business
Very slick! Great video man. I'm envious of both the two-car garage AND the lift. Couple observations: You can't do this as it appears your garage doors are butted right against the side walls, but for those with the extra width, wall-mounted door openers are a great option to get more overhead lifting space. Also, ideally it's good to know where your car's center of gravity is to adjust the front and rear lifters so that your weight distribution is 50/50. Might also be a good idea to get height extended jack stands for each end, just to be extra safe.
How would one know or find that out?
@@onjofilms Sorry - which part of my comment are you referring to?
Love the floor! What product is that? It looks like a hard anti-slip rubber surface with nice easy clean texture.
For your garage size and intended use ie bodywork, a scissor lift would have been a better choice
Good idea to wear safety glasses when pulling nails or cutting steel binding bands. A man at work cut a steel band. It sprung back and took his eye out. Also wear them when using power tools.
so many body men in shops work and mud and sand bent over or on there knees all day long ,this will make life a lot better.
I put a jack shaft garage door opener with center torsion spring on my garage door gave me about 16 in more height.
Very smart working with heavy steel wearing sandals 😂
If using one where you don't trust the concrete remember steel beam harvested by demolition companies is easy to find. I welded a (large) H from heavy beam to support m full size two post lift outdoors on earth. That way the posts cannot tip inwards because the supporting H base ties them together. You can pour concrete around the frame or dig a H-shaped trench with a trenching shovel (trenching shovels are wonderful) to set it into the ground. On soft ground consider railroad gravel as a base that doesn't crush below the H-frame. If you don't weld remember heavy bolting is used by ironworkers every day for heavier loads.
There is a joke in that intro... How many painters does it take to open a MaxJax crate? Too many! That thing is packed like it's a nuclear warhead. Good to see they take their shipping protection serious. Congrats on the lift. Once you start using it you will become a prima donna never wanting to lie on the garage floor again. It only took me 2 days to become one and now I complain if I have to get on the floor. It is not pretty.
A couple of points based on my experience with my Bendpak. The round pads get damaged quickly with the pinch weld lift points. I made some pinch weld standoffs matching a spare tire jack. If you want any info let me know. They work well. For the down position arm free movement, you can double sided tape spacers under where the pins touch so they all release when fully down so you do not need to lift the release pin.
It looks like you have some attic space to change the garage door tracks to angle up and reposition the opener to get more height. I know that is a lot of work cutting out a section of the ceiling for the door/tracks, but it will allow you to utilize the full lifting height capacity.
Hahaha my kind of guys , shorts and sandals around heavy equipment 😂! Cool video!
Why didn’t you get scissor lift? 2post lifts block some panels, making it impossible for bodywork. Scissor lift lifts from bottom and does not block any side panels. Just curious
He's not doing bodywork.
@@Globbshe literally says in this video that he does body work.
Very nice. I’d worry about the amount of leverage on those bolts. I’d prefer a wider foot print and/or the pillar extending to the ceiling to be secured into ceiling beams. Both of those of course effect portability but safety first. Ignoring that, if you want more lift height, look at 1) high lift conversion on that end door and 2) jack shaft door opener. You can get another foot or more of overhead range. As long as you don’t open the door, you don’t need the high lift door but your torsion bar at present likely doesn’t have the space for a jackshaft opener on either side. You’ll probably be ok for opener space after doing a high lift conversion.
Great video! I would love to get one of those installed in my DIY garage and appreciate the way you explained all aspects. Your shop is immaculate, I can easily follow a man’s suggestions when his shop and business are that clean and orderly 😎! I just need 2 things to get one of these 1. Money 2. Time 😂
Thanks again for informative video
Thanks so much for the respect and the kind words! Mean a lot to me !
looking for a car lift that matches your car and garage ?
Custom work on an out of the box hydraulic Jack system is a nomination for a Darwin Award.
Appreciate the detail to this video, not sure I would put one in my garage after seeing this but I'm glad to see their is a solution out there.
In my situation, since my wife also has a garage door remote, if you lower the g-door for more clearance, I would recommend pulling the door opener safety release to prevent sweet heart remote button pushin accidents. LOL .. Nice video :-)
Thanks for sharing the install. Might want to buy a garage door low headroom conversion kit to give you some more height, along with convert the door to manual lift to get rid of the automatic door lift.
Dang, what a pain in the rear! I would not want to worry about dinging the doors with those things. Limited height too? What's the use?
Brian I’ve noticed on some of the building channels they keep a few wood blocks handy to put on to the lift pads (when they are lifting cars with low sill body styles)
i think the quick jacks are better and you don't have to bolt them to the floor
What You’ll Need to Check to Install Your MaxJax:
Concrete Slab Thickness (4.25” or more)
Concrete-MaxJax Indoor Installation Only
Concrete-No More Than 3-degree Slope
Concrete-Compressive Strength 3,000 psi or Greater
MaxJax Lift Location
Overhead Clearance, Approach Clearance, and Obstructions
Concrete Condition (no significant cracks or defects, especially under lift pillars)
Traditional Slab or Post-Tension Cable Slab type verified
Note-MaxJax hold-down bolts/anchors require 90 ft-lb tightening torque
There is nothing more stylish than wearing flip flops while installing heavy equipment……👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
THE FLIP FLOP CLUB AROUND HEAVY EQUIPMENT, NICE LIFT BUT FOR THOSE OF US WITH BACK ISSUES WE NEED A HIGHER CEILING AND FOR MORE PRACTICAL USES HAVE A MORE OPEN AREA AROUND THE LIFT !!! ENJOY ALL THE VIDEOS YOU POST VERY ,VERY INFORMATIVE !!!! THANK - U BRIAN !!!!
The first thing that jumped out at me with this installation is the placement of the oil pump and control spot where you have to stand to operate the lift , the person is in between the wall and the vehicle , just to me it seems not the safest spot to be while lifting ?
I installed a direct-drive garage door opener which removes the central overhead garage door opening mechanism and allows you to move the vehicle higher.
Yes have had my MaxJax for about 10 years love it
Love your channel! Great install! Looks neat. I would have mounted pump and controls 2-3 feet to the left away from the car just so not to be in harms way of being crushed against the wall in the odd event of car falling off the lift...just my two cents.
Wish i could but was out of hose length 😀
Thanks for pointing out the negatives here. Don’t recommend going under heavy vehicles? Don’t remove and replace the lifts too often? Distant seem worth the hassle.
It’s perfectly safe but I have trust issues in life
How thick does your concrete have to be. Or what does the manufacturer recommend.
I would think 6" is ok, 4" I would worry.
Very Nice!!!.....Thanks for shairing ....I'm particularly impressed with the High -Tech Construction Thongs(slippers) the guys are wearing🤣😂🤣
For side mount direct drive garage openers, you can get a short chain link for those and mount it on the ceiling on the side. Liftmaster part #480lm.
On the problem with the one side not going all the way down and you needing to lift up on the catch to move the arms; epoxy a small block of wood the correct height to engage each pin and now when the lift is down the block will push up the pin and you can move the arm. Small 2X4" blocks and 1X4" blocks about 6 or 7" long can be inserted on top of your lift pad to keep the lift arm away from the rocker panels.
Yes. This is very smart Bill. Thank you!
only issue is whether the garage concrete is appropriate for the lift. Considering most people don't know.. doubt this is a good solution but it's cool tho. Maybe cutting holes and putting in concrete that can actually support these would be best but then your costs go way up
How thick is your garage floor? What is the recommended thickness? In my FL. County, this would require a permit and inspection. The previous owner of my house installed an RV carport in the backyard. This would be an excellent addition as I only have a small SUV.
I have a bend pack mid rise scissor lift in my home garage and in my opinion it works better for doing body work on there is no posts to deal with and it's completely movable if you wanted but honestly it's not in the way so it stays where it is for the most part and there is no bolting and unbolting to move it way better lift for body work and lifts it just as high if not higher then the max jack
Nice clean install Brian. I prefer a full size lift myself, but I have the space. This looks like a good deal for someone with a standard height garage or minimal space.
Nice u should try the wall mount garage door opener so you can get the most height out of your lift. They are very nice an they are not bad on the pocketbook. Hope u check one out.
Now if you change out your garage door opener to a shaft drive you can gain a lot more lift height.
Very cool, sir. It was nice of your embroidery club to come and help you set it all up, and you didn't even give them props.
Very nice! Curious on the slab? Post tension?
Great job! I would max it out with garage door up and mark the position somewhere on the arms and standups. I know my luck I would lift to max height with door down and would at some point raise the garage door and drag the door arm across the roof. You have done an outstanding job on you new work space. keep the videos coming.
The only problem with that suis every car is a different height that can be lifted so that wouldn't work
@@garypreble1611 true. I would just put a marker tape on the post all according to the length of time it was on the rack. I just know my luck. I can see me raising the car up after door is closed and the next day hitting the garage door opener.
How thick was the cement floor of the garage?
I imagine installing a car lift the floor cement must be much thicker than normal to safely use the jack.
If you leave the car in neutral when it is a few feet from center, you can open the doors all the way and easily get out. Then push the car into position.
Good idea !
They are great , had mine for 10 years now
You mentioned the capacity of this lift system twice but failed to mention the thickness of the concrete and the strength of the concrete necessary for the installation!!!
What is the minimum concrete thickness and the minimum PSI strength of the concrete??!!!
This is looking awesome Brian and friends. Great install, and practical 👍 😊
Flip-flops while working with heavy steel parts is pure genius.
I didn’t think it was.
That garage is huge! Maybe 3x the size of mine. Small garage 🤣😂🤣😂
That roller creeper chair seems like a PITA. The slightest force turning a bolt will send it rolling away.
Nice man!! I have the same set-up at my Home Garage🤗 I love this lift
All you need now is change out that overhead door opener to a lift master.All compact at the door.Get full heght with the door down.Cant tell if you can with that overhead opener.Just a idea if you need the space above at the roof
I have full height for this lift. Unfortunately, I can’t get a side mount garage door opener with this house, no room.
Nice garage. The garage door opener significantly reduces the lift height. I probably would not install a lift in a garage with ceilings that low and made lower with the opener blocking the height.
A roll up door would eliminate that overhead opener. The rails also limit the height.
If i had a garage this would work great.
This is a pretty good setup. I've considered it for my garage too. That chair tho, man.. I would be taking a nap in 30 seconds! :) You've got a pretty great setup going!
Wearing sandals while moving 300lb pillars?
😂
Good video however won't work in most homes in the Las Vegas area. Concrete slabs are "post tension". Cannot drill holes into the slab.
😂😂😂😂 It awesome to see all the guys cracking the boxes ope like in a Christmas day! Very gun video to watch! 🥳🎉
Haha nice play on words.
With this attitude every car hoist is portable! Including four post ones.
$3830 really isn’t bad for that lift. I am impressed!
You can t be serious...I just bought a full height 4 tonnes lift 2 weeks ago in uk,delivered to my door for short of 2k,and you paid for something that's offering very limited use double??
Won’t be a great quality lift for 2k delivered. I’m in the UK and good quality lifts start around £4000 for 2 post versions. Can get cheap ones for around £1700 but they are very poor quality. Bendpack are good quality so the price is what I’d expect for this one Brian has bought
i have a 2 poster, but for home i would go with a scissor lift, they lay nearly flat, and the posts of a 2 post get in the way. if you do alot of work under the middle of the car then i would go 2 post, but again, for normal servicing i would go scissor.
Bunch of dads doing dad things on a Sunday with a nice cold one 🍻
Hey dude, I got the same floor.. full flake. I used the metallic blend with 4 coats of clear.
not a fan of using a concrete anchor that is removable. Hope they don't get weak!!
Does this lift come with attachments to lift the car up at the wheels?
Nice! I'm jealous of that garage. I would like to get something like that but the major thing stopping me is that I have post-tensioned slab and drilling into the slab is risky of hitting a steel tendon in the concrete....Ka-BOOM!!
my garage height is 290cm and the doors open with side motors. There is room to lift close to the ceiling when the lifting motor is on the rail on the side.
I think it's cheaper to build a stand canal. You can work on vans/trucks as well. You can build it outside and cover it and it would be probably cheaper than the device...
So you release the locks and then show off the chair and then roll around under the unlocked vehicle. Not too safe?
Seems like painting a car on a lift would be easier to paint the lower half than on the ground? Would you start at the top or bottom?
When do you plan to an update on the Max Jax and the concern you had of removal and replacement.
how low was the RSX (I think) without the ramps? Front air dam height? side skirt height?
Price for Max Jack?