thanks, wow after 7 years this video is still relevant! I will be doing a timing belt change this week on my D15b2 and you def showed it in a simplified manner.
Yahoooooo!!! My mini-me swap's idle and throttle response are way way way way better. I was having this issue where even without load, when engine is at operating temp, rpm would just go below 500 mark and sometimes die! And with A/C on, it would just die immediately. Cleaned TB, replace IACV, MAP and TPS even compressor but to no avail. I've tried resetting engine timing twice but maybe the guides I followed before were not that accurate (or not applicable on my case). BUT this video helped me a lot!!! Thanks so much @JamesDguy!!!
Well done for trying to correct the infinite amount of bad online info on this. But I'm afraid you're a incorrect on the timing marks. The OE marks to follow are 1 of 2 styles on the D-series: 1- The "UP" lettering at the 12 o'clock position 2- The marks at 9pm and 3pm horizontally aligned with the valve cover seating surface milled into the head (+/- 1 tooth off from method 1) Only these 2 methods for establishing mechanical timing were ever employed by Honda Motor Co on their multi-generation D-series (D17 inclusive). B & H-Series (belted twin cam layouts) use similar alignment indexing as method 2 mentioned above. Keep up the Honda love
this guy dont know what hes talking about... the dude that made the video done it perfectly!! D16z6, and mine d16a6(1.6l)engines, the up mark its not at 12oclock... you need to aligne the lower point with the lower mark on the belt cover... the marks at 9pm and 3 pm do not align horizontally with the valve cover seating surfaces... www.autozone.com/repairguides/Honda-Civic-CRX-del-Sol-1984-1995-Repair-Guide/VALVE-LASH/Adjustment/_/P-0900c15280061663 SEARCH FIGURE NUMBER 2/3 IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS!!! JAMES D GUY, DUDE THANKS A LOT!!!
would be full to redline rpm only if I did fix the timing to be on it like you did this video? because I been try to kick in vtec after I replace the ecu to P28 and new Map Sensor and TPS. but I plan order new a VTEC soilden would help to get rpm hit to redline?
james D guy, I have a d15b2 with a z6 head. when I align the bottom pointer on the cover the 9oclock and 3oclock marks dont sit even with the valve cover gasket.. if the bottom pointer is lined up the timing should be right. right ??
Yes they will not be level with the head when using a d15b or d16z6 head. That single pointer needs to be pointed down with that style of head. D15b1/b2/b7/ d16y7/d16y8 they face level with valve cover. Hope that helps.
now guys, take notes that the z6 has the most teeth on d series cam gears, also this is for sitting time if it went stupid, not if your car jumped time and snapped the belt, 99.9% of motors these days aren't marked for tdc and you might wanna learn the screw driver and cylinder #1 trick for it and learn to read the notches or buy a timing gun.
if you had it a tooth off or even two teeth, when you put it in gear would it loose a bunch of power? Like having to mash the accelerator and it still barley go anywhere?
I have a D15B block in my Honda Civic. Do you remember how many teeth your timing belt had cause I'm having trouble trying to get the marks to stay on point. I've read in forums that the belt has to either have 103 or 107 teeth on the timing belt. I've already tried a 106 and 108 teeth belt. If you can reply and let me know I thank you. Your video is very informative!
I had a friend swap a d15b because my old one was warped and it use to burn out a lil bit with the e break and on first but now it feels weak the engine is the same idk what would be wrong
I'm thinking this is what I may need to do. Working on a 93 civic with the b7. Starts up fine but as it gets warmer, it starts to pick up a small misfire, until it starts lugging. Revs fine. I'm thinking he has it retarded a tooth
What about ignition timing ? I get quite a bit of back fire. I swapped a jdm d15 vtec on an ef DX and my idle seems rough.. I do have a code 14 which I can not clear I have tried 3 iacvs and nothing. I can't find an air leak anywhere.. any advice would be appreciated.
I also recently got a code 14 which is for IACV, i purchased a brand new one but sadly the code is still there. Now i opened my ECU and find out one of the transistor is busted and luckily i found an exact item which i replaced and the code is gone and the engine runs smoothly again.
Hey ..trying to do my d15b vtec timing ..for the yellow mark your lining up the crank pulley with..are those 2 lines ..and should I be matching up the yellow mark from the pulley with which arrow on the timing cover at the bottom? Since there is two..ones a /\ and the smaller one at the
my timing belt doesn't want to tighten on straight side. so by turning the cam gear that will tighten it right? I believe I may have skipped that step now it's slapping like crazy
Dakota Lankford not sure what direction u would need to turn but I'm pretty sure it's off if the belt still has alot of slack it won't be perfectly right but when u tighten down the 14mm bolt it will tighten it a little ill have to make a more updated video and show how I do it with it off the car
James Dguy my timing seems to be on point b it you may be right. I'm just wondering also if the tensioner I have is bad or if it's the wrong size belt. I just bought the engine and picking up where someone left off.
Dakota Lankford very possible that it's wrong belt. d15b7 belt don't fit on mini me swaps only y7,y8,z6 fit mini me swaps with them head codes. now d15b head requires the d15b timing belt. I will have to go into depth
Antron Hanna I never usually pull the plug since I have done it so many times before and it’s always dead on but if someone is doing it for the first time then yes I agree. I should have mentioned that. My videos have improved since this was made 4yrs ago lol i need to make a newer video
They can be. I have had a belt break on several different engines d15b1 a d15b2 a d15b7 and a d16z6 and 3 out of the 4 worked perfect after a new belt and 1 of them did not. So its hit and miss.
David Changet yes very Similar only difference is use the side marks lined up with the valve cover instead of using the lower pointer. If u use the Lower pointer on the upper cam gear it will run rough. Hope that made sense. If not comment back
james d guy im swapping my jdm d15b dual vtec solenoid over to a much more parts sorceable z6 head it has a comp cam with adjustable aem cam gear how should i time it i have the obd 2 dual vtec jdm d15b with a p2j head 3 stage vtec now with a p28 ecu wanting to swap to the z6 head
Do the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley line up with the cylinder head upper surface (head gasket)? Because someone has removed the plastic case around the timing belt and I no longer have the curved alignment indicator under the cam gear.
If i were you i would get the plastics somewhere. If i had some left overs i would just send you 1 because i u used to have a ton of them. But its not REQUIRED but it helps you get it dead on. But you can time it without them. Like most D16y7/D16y8 heads they have a notch on the back of the cam shaft pulley when its lined up with the head it will be level with the valve cover mating surface. The D16z6/D15z1 and JDM D15B do not have this. They only have the outside marks which are used for top dead center. The notch on the bottom of the cam pulley on the Z6/z1 and D15B points at the lower notch and if you do not have the plastic cover it can make this difficult to time but i have done it before without plastics. Best thing to do is get the side marks lined up flat with the head where the valve cover gasket sits the slightly turn the cam pulley to the right VERY slightly and that should be where it needs to be. I have done it with success but i would if i were you get the plastics so that you don't get timing off to much because they are interference engines and could damage valves if done improperly. Hope this made sense and helps
James Dguyi set my time just like that after the belt broke i replace and change couple of intake valve thajt were leaking am getting fuel and spark but no start who could be the problem
Jason Bentley yea as far as the old school d15b like what I had. I also had a newer style d15b but it was more like the y8 cam gear. but as long as it looks like this cam gear then it has same timing marks and cam gear
u will be a .5 a tooth off... no OEM cam fits a JDM d15b from a USDM z6 head will need a adjustable cam just and advancing it 1.5 degrees or 4.5 don't remember
The Unlimited Prism You would probably be better off with the plastic pieces but there is a way to time without them but it would be too hard for explain and would require me to do another video. Which I can do if one comes across in the near future
@@JamesDguy dang I got to redo mine. I set it with the up straight up and the pointer in the middle of the three 🤪🤣 I did check to see if everything was ok. It seemed to clear all the valves. I took it off like that
I have a 1988 Honda Civic dx sedan it has a 1.5 liter. I bought it for a hundred bucks it sat since 2002 it needed a new motor I had someone install it for a $1000.00 bucks and it doesn’t start I’ve replaced the spark plugs and wires distributor fuel filter and fuel pump main relay even ecu, I got it too start but acted like it was out of gas I don’t know a hole lot about Honda’s anyone know what could be wrong?
Mark Meyer I would start with fuel injectors, firing order, some times the fuel injector wiring order can be off. From right to left Brown,red,blue,yellow Cyl 1^ 2^ 3^ 4^ Cylinder 1 is by the timing belt Cyl 4 is by distributor. Hope that makes sense.
Mark Meyer oh crap forgot its a ef thr 1988-1991 are mostly DPFI they have horrible intake manifold design and usually their 2 injectors crap out. I would start with replacing injectors or converting to obd1 but thats a tougher job than just replacinf injectors
my uncle set timing before putting all the parts back and he crank it up and it ran.but when he put the hurmonic balance on i think he moved it because he didint have the tool to hold the hurmonic balance now it still sound like its off timing how do I fix it with out taking every thing off
Chris Sittner very similar. On the d16y engines there is a notch on the back of the cam pulley that needs to be leveled with the head not the same style of cam gear as these d15z1, d15b or d16z6 style. The d15b1,d15b7 and so on like this use the level with the head markings not the lower pointer marking
@@rey0176 no they arent.. They are similar 88 to 91 is this way or d15b2.. 92-95 a bit differenet. 96 00 again a little different. Close but not the same.
Bro what’s ur insta I tried timing it myself but when I start up my civic it’s seems fine for like the first 6 seconds then it starts to sound rough It also kinda doesn’t wanna pull from 0-20 idk what’s up
Bonafied-pro Mtz which time? When I pulled the belt off? If that’s when you’re talking about the belt made the pulley move just a little bit now if you’re talking about when I repositioned the lower pulley to be top dead center I moved it by hand but I recommend a 17 mm and a ratchet
might check to make sure they have NGK plugs and gapped at 0.44 and replace wires. Coils are going out this time of year so beware of that. If u get a no spark situation remember to check Ignition coil and replace but before all other things check the main relay for cracked solder its almost always the culprit
Z6 has the best flow of all heads if only it had the quench pads like the y8 does. Then it would be the absolute best! The z6 has swirl ports from the factory and offset timing makes for some serious power. Now add higher compression and its nastey! I miss my high comp D16z6 i had along time ago ran 14s with just P29 pistons, And skunk2 manifold cheap ebay intake/Exhaust i could have got it alot faster had i cammed it and did clutch work and what not
I think my car is definitely running retarded doesn’t wanna start haha, I forgot to line up the crank so I’m hoping I can just loosen the tensioner and then re align the cam it looks like it’s a few teeth behind
cellokid502 Not trying to give you what most would call "BAD ADVICE" But i never once put arp studs on my boosted setups and never ONCE had an issue anything less than 10psi shouldn't need them unless your afraid of head lift but i was pushing 13.8psi even went up tp 16psi and never had an issue with needing headstuds. Now after 10Psi i should have replaced mine with studs but i didn't and still ran great.But the only other advice i could give is get some 5w40 Synthetic diesel oil get the lightest weight oil you can but the reason i say this is because even after COUNTLESS months of beating down on my engine i only ran rotelle or whatever diesel oil and it went for about 5K miles before changing needed to be done because its made to withstand HIGH Turbo heat because diesels. It cant be thick or it will starve your engine the necessary oil needed on start up so 5W 40 is the lightest they make. and get a WIX or K&N filter for oil filter best combo there. Check my other boosted ef videos if you want to hear how the turbo should sound with that setup because i kid you not the diesel oil made the turbo sound better i think its because its made for Turbos or something lol But as for the ARP if you are already doing them then great!!! But not needed for low boost IMO :D I will be having a HOW TO TURBO A B18 FOR CHEAP! It will be out soon!!
Royal purple isnt very compatible with Honda bearings so be careful rrunning that stuff. It does make more performance but honda bearings get eaten alive because of the chemicals in the oil. Iv worked on COUNTLESS rod knocks caused by royal purple. The best oil i use is the Mobil clean or Mobil 1 its honda's factory oil and its perfect for high heat and thermal breakdown :) But if you get a knock it might be caused by royal purple i wouldn't use it in my own car because of that. But the oil is awesome for anything non honda but thats just what iv learned through out the years. 9 times outta 10 the oil causes issues because of the copper in the bearings
Deff the filters are damn good for sure! Wix royal purple and K&N. But just a heads up if its does knock that could be why. Hopefully it wont come down to that
thanks, wow after 7 years this video is still relevant! I will be doing a timing belt change this week on my D15b2 and you def showed it in a simplified manner.
Best D series timing video on this whole site 🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for the vid man, you made it so easy to time my car and now it's running great
joe aguirre glad I could help!
Yahoooooo!!! My mini-me swap's idle and throttle response are way way way way better. I was having this issue where even without load, when engine is at operating temp, rpm would just go below 500 mark and sometimes die! And with A/C on, it would just die immediately. Cleaned TB, replace IACV, MAP and TPS even compressor but to no avail. I've tried resetting engine timing twice but maybe the guides I followed before were not that accurate (or not applicable on my case). BUT this video helped me a lot!!!
Thanks so much @JamesDguy!!!
What mini-me swap did you do?
Thank you for this video. Very much appreciated
ava9oh1282000 I try to help the best I can
You are a hero, this helped me out alot!
Preparing myself to do timing belt and water pump on a D16Y3.
These D series engines look all the same...
Very good video 👍
great video!! hard to find video just for timing without replacing belt and h2o pump
Thanks. I will be doing a more in depth video soon on how to time it for different D engines.
You should upload a video of your prefered way of doing D series valve lash. 👍
Why was your cam not lined up?
Well done for trying to correct the infinite amount of bad online info on this.
But I'm afraid you're a incorrect on the timing marks. The OE marks to follow are 1 of 2 styles on the D-series:
1- The "UP" lettering at the 12 o'clock position
2- The marks at 9pm and 3pm horizontally aligned with the valve cover seating surface milled into the head (+/- 1 tooth off from method 1)
Only these 2 methods for establishing mechanical timing were ever employed by Honda Motor Co on their multi-generation D-series (D17 inclusive).
B & H-Series (belted twin cam layouts) use similar alignment indexing as method 2 mentioned above.
Keep up the Honda love
this guy dont know what hes talking about... the dude that made the video done it perfectly!! D16z6, and mine d16a6(1.6l)engines, the up mark its not at 12oclock... you need to aligne the lower point with the lower mark on the belt cover... the marks at 9pm and 3 pm do not align horizontally with the valve cover seating surfaces...
www.autozone.com/repairguides/Honda-Civic-CRX-del-Sol-1984-1995-Repair-Guide/VALVE-LASH/Adjustment/_/P-0900c15280061663
SEARCH FIGURE NUMBER 2/3 IF YOU HAVE DOUBTS!!!
JAMES D GUY, DUDE THANKS A LOT!!!
Thanks man. Very helpful
I’ve been looking for this video like crazy
Very clear and easy tu understand Thanks man !
Thanks dude helps a lot
You line up the top cam and the bottom spline one degree off and tighten the slack and rotate 6 times and then it should all line up
Awesome video thanks James. I couldn't remember how to get the slack out of the front side of the belt.
Thank you buddy right to the point vidwo
Best video for timing
Noice, simple and clean.
Good thing you didn't start talking about your dog and his friends like some other guys
Thanks for this. May prove helpful when I replace the cam gear on my D15b7
i have a d16y8 that needs to be retimed does this work for that?
Omg thank you so much now to get the car running
How about d16y7 block with d16z6 head? Can i use the same procedure
I put my marks in same place
The car running good ! Thanks
Stupid question. In theory, if your replacing your cam gear can you just do this instead of taking everything off? 🤔
would be full to redline rpm only if I did fix the timing to be on it like you did this video? because I been try to kick in vtec after I replace the ecu to P28 and new Map Sensor and TPS. but I plan order new a VTEC soilden would help to get rpm hit to redline?
james D guy, I have a d15b2 with a z6 head. when I align the bottom pointer on the cover the 9oclock and 3oclock marks dont sit even with the valve cover gasket.. if the bottom pointer is lined up the timing should be right. right ??
Yes they will not be level with the head when using a d15b or d16z6 head. That single pointer needs to be pointed down with that style of head. D15b1/b2/b7/ d16y7/d16y8 they face level with valve cover. Hope that helps.
Thanks for sharing! Great descriptive video
Great video :) Just a quick question,what transmission can go on a D15B Vtec
Eric Giron any d15/d16 if u have a stock hydro I'd get a hydro d16z6 if I were u. but the y8/z6 best 1/4 times
now guys, take notes that the z6 has the most teeth on d series cam gears, also this is for sitting time if it went stupid, not if your car jumped time and snapped the belt, 99.9% of motors these days aren't marked for tdc and you might wanna learn the screw driver and cylinder #1 trick for it and learn to read the notches or buy a timing gun.
if you had it a tooth off or even two teeth, when you put it in gear would it loose a bunch of power? Like having to mash the accelerator and it still barley go anywhere?
It’s possible that it would do that because it would be retarted on timing or too advanced.
Great information video
Nice job
I have a D15B block in my Honda Civic. Do you remember how many teeth your timing belt had cause I'm having trouble trying to get the marks to stay on point. I've read in forums that the belt has to either have 103 or 107 teeth on the timing belt. I've already tried a 106 and 108 teeth belt. If you can reply and let me know I thank you. Your video is very informative!
Rip to him replying. Ever figure it out? I have the same block/head
It’s a d16z7 belt
im replacing the belt on my d14z2 does this apply? its curently lining up in the middle of the 3 lines not the one by itself.
I had a friend swap a d15b because my old one was warped and it use to burn out a lil bit with the e break and on first but now it feels weak the engine is the same idk what would be wrong
Question. Do u not need to worry about using a timing gun with this engine? Or adjusting the distributer? Thanks
I'm thinking this is what I may need to do. Working on a 93 civic with the b7. Starts up fine but as it gets warmer, it starts to pick up a small misfire, until it starts lugging. Revs fine. I'm thinking he has it retarded a tooth
What about ignition timing ? I get quite a bit of back fire. I swapped a jdm d15 vtec on an ef DX and my idle seems rough.. I do have a code 14 which I can not clear I have tried 3 iacvs and nothing. I can't find an air leak anywhere.. any advice would be appreciated.
@@JamesDguy I will re check all of this first and see what happens. Thank you so much James. Great content.
I also recently got a code 14 which is for IACV, i purchased a brand new one but sadly the code is still there. Now i opened my ECU and find out one of the transistor is busted and luckily i found an exact item which i replaced and the code is gone and the engine runs smoothly again.
I got told a while ago that a larger cam shaft would make the car sound chunkier I've been trying to find one but I'm not too sure.
Hey ..trying to do my d15b vtec timing ..for the yellow mark your lining up the crank pulley with..are those 2 lines ..and should I be matching up the yellow mark from the pulley with which arrow on the timing cover at the bottom? Since there is two..ones a /\ and the smaller one at the
my timing belt doesn't want to tighten on straight side. so by turning the cam gear that will tighten it right? I believe I may have skipped that step now it's slapping like crazy
Dakota Lankford not sure what direction u would need to turn but I'm pretty sure it's off if the belt still has alot of slack it won't be perfectly right but when u tighten down the 14mm bolt it will tighten it a little ill have to make a more updated video and show how I do it with it off the car
James Dguy my timing seems to be on point b it you may be right. I'm just wondering also if the tensioner I have is bad or if it's the wrong size belt. I just bought the engine and picking up where someone left off.
Dakota Lankford very possible that it's wrong belt. d15b7 belt don't fit on mini me swaps only y7,y8,z6 fit mini me swaps with them head codes. now d15b head requires the d15b timing belt. I will have to go into depth
James Dguy hey can I time a d15b2 with this info?
yes all 88-2000 sohc are all the same way
friend I have a d15b where can I get the kit timing belt gates
This is all facts but you has to pull the plug in cylinder 1 and bring that piston to the top first and everything else will be accurate
Antron Hanna I never usually pull the plug since I have done it so many times before and it’s always dead on but if someone is doing it for the first time then yes I agree. I should have mentioned that. My videos have improved since this was made 4yrs ago lol i need to make a newer video
Is a d15a2 an interference motor? Because my timing belt broke going up the road
They can be. I have had a belt break on several different engines d15b1 a d15b2 a d15b7 and a d16z6 and 3 out of the 4 worked perfect after a new belt and 1 of them did not. So its hit and miss.
Hey will this also work on a d15b1?
I have a d15b7. Would everything be the same or similar?
David Changet yes very Similar only difference is use the side marks lined up with the valve cover instead of using the lower pointer. If u use the Lower pointer on the upper cam gear it will run rough. Hope that made sense. If not comment back
Can i change my camshaft and cam gear without removing power steering and the 3 poly v belts? I got a d16z9 (similar to a d16z6).
james d guy im swapping my jdm d15b dual vtec solenoid over to a much more parts sorceable z6 head it has a comp cam with adjustable aem cam gear how should i time it
i have the obd 2 dual vtec jdm d15b with a p2j head 3 stage vtec now with a p28 ecu
wanting to swap to the z6 head
Do the TDC marks on the camshaft pulley line up with the cylinder head upper surface (head gasket)? Because someone has removed the plastic case around the timing belt and I no longer have the curved alignment indicator under the cam gear.
If i were you i would get the plastics somewhere. If i had some left overs i would just send you 1 because i u used to have a ton of them. But its not REQUIRED but it helps you get it dead on. But you can time it without them. Like most D16y7/D16y8 heads they have a notch on the back of the cam shaft pulley when its lined up with the head it will be level with the valve cover mating surface. The D16z6/D15z1 and JDM D15B do not have this. They only have the outside marks which are used for top dead center. The notch on the bottom of the cam pulley on the Z6/z1 and D15B points at the lower notch and if you do not have the plastic cover it can make this difficult to time but i have done it before without plastics. Best thing to do is get the side marks lined up flat with the head where the valve cover gasket sits the slightly turn the cam pulley to the right VERY slightly and that should be where it needs to be. I have done it with success but i would if i were you get the plastics so that you don't get timing off to much because they are interference engines and could damage valves if done improperly. Hope this made sense and helps
What keyway size did you end up having to get? Is it 4mm?
Hey how did you remove the bottom plastic cover under the timing?
Vince Yeeks you have to remove crank bolt and pulley then remove the 10mm bolts that hold it on
James Dguy what were to happen if I just timed it right but didn't tighten the tensioner all the way?
James Dguyi set my time just like that after the belt broke i replace and change couple of intake valve thajt were leaking am getting fuel and spark but no start who could be the problem
After replacing my timing belt i have no power in eninge it starts and drives but no power
and where do the timingmarks fall when you shve the head?
Great video :) Just a quick question, do the JDM D15b and D16Z6 use the exact same cam gears?
Jason Bentley yea as far as the old school d15b like what I had. I also had a newer style d15b but it was more like the y8 cam gear. but as long as it looks like this cam gear then it has same timing marks and cam gear
Thanks dude :) I'm just having trouble with setting up a Mini Head Swap and I'm just trying to sort out timing issues
Jason Bentley oh gotcha well good luck on it!
u will be a .5 a tooth off... no OEM cam fits a JDM d15b from a USDM z6 head will need a adjustable cam just and advancing it 1.5 degrees or 4.5 don't remember
Is this the same routine for a d15b2?
What are the symptoms if u need to do a TDS
How I do I time my car? It’s a mini me swap with b7 block with z6 head and I don’t have the plastic cover and it also has aftermarket cams
The Unlimited Prism You would probably be better off with the plastic pieces but there is a way to time without them but it would be too hard for explain and would require me to do another video. Which I can do if one comes across in the near future
Dude I owe you so much lol
if you have anymore questions i can answer them better now than i could 5 years ago when i made this video
instagram.com/lucky_irish_mechanic
@@JamesDguy dang I got to redo mine. I set it with the up straight up and the pointer in the middle of the three 🤪🤣 I did check to see if everything was ok. It seemed to clear all the valves. I took it off like that
Hey dude you should do one on timing a d15 non vtec block with z6 head
+Kramer TheAssman Its the exact same
I have a 1988 Honda Civic dx sedan it has a 1.5 liter. I bought it for a hundred bucks it sat since 2002 it needed a new motor I had someone install it for a $1000.00 bucks and it doesn’t start I’ve replaced the spark plugs and wires distributor fuel filter and fuel pump main relay even ecu, I got it too start but acted like it was out of gas I don’t know a hole lot about Honda’s anyone know what could be wrong?
Mark Meyer I would start with fuel injectors, firing order, some times the fuel injector wiring order can be off.
From right to left
Brown,red,blue,yellow
Cyl 1^ 2^ 3^ 4^
Cylinder 1 is by the timing belt Cyl 4 is by distributor.
Hope that makes sense.
James D guy it only has 2 on this engine a top mount and bottom which are brown and green
Mark Meyer oh crap forgot its a ef thr 1988-1991 are mostly DPFI they have horrible intake manifold design and usually their 2 injectors crap out. I would start with replacing injectors or converting to obd1 but thats a tougher job than just replacinf injectors
James D guy okay thanks for the info 👌🏻
my uncle set timing before putting all the parts back and he crank it up and it ran.but when he put the hurmonic balance on i think he moved it because he didint have the tool to hold the hurmonic balance now it still sound like its off timing how do I fix it with out taking every thing off
Shakeen Moore I would have to do a video to explain it really and you have the same last name as me btw haha
Does this apply to D16y8 as well
Chris Sittner very similar. On the d16y engines there is a notch on the back of the cam pulley that needs to be leveled with the head not the same style of cam gear as these d15z1, d15b or d16z6 style. The d15b1,d15b7 and so on like this use the level with the head markings not the lower pointer marking
Excelent!!
what if i dont have any timing covers? previous owners took them off for some reason but will i still have the crank marks on the bottom??
There should be an arrow imprinted on the motor where it should be
can I time a d15b2 using this info? it's got a mfpi swap
yes all 88-2000 sohc are all the same way
@@rey0176 no they arent.. They are similar 88 to 91 is this way or d15b2.. 92-95 a bit differenet. 96 00 again a little different. Close but not the same.
How did u move the bottom Back
A tad with the belt on like that
Pulling on the belt changes the tension thus moving the crankshaft
Why do people set timing on the middle of the three marks?
@@Tony-tk4ht mo powa
Bro what’s ur insta I tried timing it myself but when I start up my civic it’s seems fine for like the first 6 seconds then it starts to sound rough It also kinda doesn’t wanna pull from 0-20 idk what’s up
instagram.com/lucky_irish_mechanic
Is this the same procedure for a d15b7?
yes all 88-2000 sohc are all the same way
Hi I have a d15 16 valve and I am try to get it timed if u could get back with me that would be awesome thanks so much
Thanks
How the hell did u make the bottom pulley move
Bonafied-pro Mtz which time? When I pulled the belt off? If that’s when you’re talking about the belt made the pulley move just a little bit now if you’re talking about when I repositioned the lower pulley to be top dead center I moved it by hand but I recommend a 17 mm and a ratchet
i have a d15b7/z6 minime . will this work for my set up
+Edgar Avila Yes it will!
+James Dguy ugh i got it running decent and now its sputtering every now and then.
might check to make sure they have NGK plugs and gapped at 0.44 and replace wires. Coils are going out this time of year so beware of that. If u get a no spark situation remember to check Ignition coil and replace but before all other things check the main relay for cracked solder its almost always the culprit
drop the z6 and run a y8 head with a z6 cam.
Z6 has the best flow of all heads if only it had the quench pads like the y8 does. Then it would be the absolute best! The z6 has swirl ports from the factory and offset timing makes for some serious power. Now add higher compression and its nastey! I miss my high comp D16z6 i had along time ago ran 14s with just P29 pistons, And skunk2 manifold cheap ebay intake/Exhaust i could have got it alot faster had i cammed it and did clutch work and what not
I think my car is definitely running retarded doesn’t wanna start haha,
I forgot to line up the crank so I’m hoping I can just loosen the tensioner and then re align the cam it looks like it’s a few teeth behind
I'm boosting my f22b1 this week, 8 psi ebay kit, any suggestions for prep besides arp studs?
cellokid502 Not trying to give you what most would call "BAD ADVICE" But i never once put arp studs on my boosted setups and never ONCE had an issue anything less than 10psi shouldn't need them unless your afraid of head lift but i was pushing 13.8psi even went up tp 16psi and never had an issue with needing headstuds. Now after 10Psi i should have replaced mine with studs but i didn't and still ran great.But the only other advice i could give is get some 5w40 Synthetic diesel oil get the lightest weight oil you can but the reason i say this is because even after COUNTLESS months of beating down on my engine i only ran rotelle or whatever diesel oil and it went for about 5K miles before changing needed to be done because its made to withstand HIGH Turbo heat because diesels. It cant be thick or it will starve your engine the necessary oil needed on start up so 5W 40 is the lightest they make. and get a WIX or K&N filter for oil filter best combo there. Check my other boosted ef videos if you want to hear how the turbo should sound with that setup because i kid you not the diesel oil made the turbo sound better i think its because its made for Turbos or something lol But as for the ARP if you are already doing them then great!!! But not needed for low boost IMO :D I will be having a HOW TO TURBO A B18 FOR CHEAP! It will be out soon!!
Royal purple isnt very compatible with Honda bearings so be careful rrunning that stuff. It does make more performance but honda bearings get eaten alive because of the chemicals in the oil. Iv worked on COUNTLESS rod knocks caused by royal purple. The best oil i use is the Mobil clean or Mobil 1 its honda's factory oil and its perfect for high heat and thermal breakdown :) But if you get a knock it might be caused by royal purple i wouldn't use it in my own car because of that. But the oil is awesome for anything non honda but thats just what iv learned through out the years. 9 times outta 10 the oil causes issues because of the copper in the bearings
well i've been using the oil since i think January and well with my car there hasn't been any problems. The filters are still good to use though.
Deff the filters are damn good for sure! Wix royal purple and K&N. But just a heads up if its does knock that could be why. Hopefully it wont come down to that
yea hopefully it doesn't and it holds up. Adjusting my valves took longer than i expected to take haha i started at 12 pm and just finished at 5:00
I can't start and all In like the you use to can you help me on the
My engine is a D15b vtec but I do not now kind of block do I have
Eric Giron D15B1/D15B2/D15B7/D15B8 all identical BLOCK of the jdm d15b
Mine is the same mark is off by same amount
I need help bro
can I time my Honda Concerto 1.4. 1992 Shoc with this info?
I am unsure on that. never worked on one before
I am unsure on that. never worked on one before
Any info for a D13A2?
Yeah please
Video*
fordel
I’m 1:50
timing ef
im trying to do this to my d15b7 is it the same procedure?
+stanb420 everything is the same except cam gear marks need to be level with the head and not the lower pointer on the cam gear otherwsie the same
I would like to ask for some help!
d16z6 p29 piston control setting ? Although this option? I'm sorry but I do not speak English :(
Control settings? As in the timing?
Yes!! :)
Mark ? or before?