On a DOHC ZC there are two spots on the cams on top to put two 5mm drill bits to hold the cams in place. Then do everything as the video suggests but go a little off on the bottom crank mark (around 3 teeth off) so you compensate for the slack when you turn the bolt. Spot on timing every time!
This was a great video!! Thanks for making it! I’ve been needing to do this for my 91 CRX Si and this has been one of the most descriptive of what exactly is happening and why! Thanks!
Great video.. Short (but important) note. On P08 (JDM) engines (example D15B) the cam timing marks don't align with the top of head. Instead there will be 3 notches in the plastic back cover (part number 11840-P08-010): two triangles showing P08 and one showing P28. On P08 heads the "Horizontally oriented" 2 lines will align with the 2 P08 notches and will be slightly slanted with reference to the top of head by about 1 gear tooth. On P08 engines if the CAM lines are aligned to the top of the head engine timing will be retarded (8 degrees for CAM 16 degrees for crank) and it will not be possible to set ignition timing successfully. Engine will still work but won't be optimal. On P28 engines you would of course align the single horizontal line to the P28 notch. The rest is perfect.
Thank you soo much for this comment I have pulled apart and put back together my d15b in a 1999 Honda domani twice now and couldn’t work out why it wouldn’t run right not realising the timing marks are not at the top of the valve cover but the side of the engine
holy shit, ty so much. I was dealing with these weird notch/arrows on my d14z1 and couldnt figure it out, since everyone says you should align it with the top of the head.
I followed this video and kept finding if I turned the crank 3 times completely like you’d mentioned that my cam gear where it says “up” facing downward. I was going insane trying to fix this. After calling a buddy with more experience. He ask me if it lined up with just 2 turns. I said yea. I put an extension in the number one hole and sure enough it was tdc. I cranked the car with no dizzy plugged in to hear any irregularity and it sound good. Started it and it purrs. So if anyones chasing their tail turning it 3 complete times and getting the “up” facing down. This may be an issue your having.
The "up" Mark will always, be on down side at 3 turns. Reason is, for each complete turn of crankshaft, camshaft turns half and so you will, get the "up" Mark again on top after two complete turns of crankshaft.
Great video! Very helpful and clearly laid out. I just got a 1992 Honda Civic CX Hatchback and the previous owner installed the camshaft like 90 degrees off.
Very educative. I have learnt a lot.But I am facing a problem when I engage a gear the engine stops and jumps the timing.I don't know the problem.when I reset the timing again the engine start efficiently but on engaging the gear it stops again
If the engine runs in neutral and you can rev the engine in neutral, its not the engine. I would guess the trans has a issue, like its stuck and wont rotate and its making the engine come to a sudden stop which is causing the timing belt to jump. If you have a manual transmission I would say the clutch isn't installed correctly, If you have an auto, then IDK. But it sounds like you have a transmission problem. Did you put in a new clutch or have the transmission separated from the engine?
Now im no mechanical or at least a professional but im doing a engine swap with a d series in my 2000 Civic LX and would this tutorial follow along the lines of a 2000 d series? Because i was scrolling through some comments and ive noticed the newest d series comment ive seen was on a 92 civic so i want wondering if this tutorial was similar for a 2000? I dont know much about honda engines and i just bought my 2000 civic lx and the engine cumbusted, im assuming its a timing belt failiure and i decided to swap the engine for another with lower miles and i just decided to change the timing belt and a little maintenance while the engine was out. I apologize if the question is dumb, im not the sharpest tool in the shed but i was just asking for that
Yes, I thought the same thing many years ago. The only real intimidating thing I have come across is rebuilding an auto transmission. These old 88-2001 Honda's are very simple, that's why I like them so much. Cheap and easy..
Hey Mr JayDM! I hope you're still active on here... I bought a Civic with a D series with a y8 block and a y7 head, the kid I got it from replaced the cam flywheel with a lightweight one, never put the OEM cover back on. There are no notch indicators or anything to match up timing. The car is idling really rough and misfiring, so I'm definitely guessing timing issue. Is there any way to do timing without these indicators on the D series motors by matching up the Firing on cylinder 1 and rocking on 4? Any advice on how I should go about it? Thank you ahead of time!
The best thing to do is get a y7 or y8 cam gear (They are the same) and reset the timing. If you cant get one locally, I can send you one for $40 shipped (USA / Lower 48). If you want the timing cover (Upper/Lower Cover + Gear) I can do $80 Shipped (USA / Lower 48) contact me via Facebook group facebook.com/groups/MrJayDM If interested. The y7 and y8 timing covers are the same as well. To set the dizzy timing correctly you will need at least the lower timing cover.
After installing the belt you turn counterclockwise to remove the slack from the belt the crank is no longer on the arrow and the cam hasn't moved ? Is the timing still correct ?
hi mr Jim what if your crank gear doesn't have that notch on it? mine does not have that notch it's a d15 z1 how can I put it in timing.? thanks in advance
Doing this to an 88 civic with a D15B1. How can i torque down the crankshaft nut without an impact drill? I used a breaker bar to remove it but have no idea how to retighten. This is also stopping me from removing the slack from the left side of the belt. Any help?
You can rent the Honda crank pulley tool from an auto parts store, but I'm not sure if the D15b1 crank pulley has the hexagon for the tool to go into or you can take the starter out and put a crowbar in the ring gear to lock the engine from moving. I would just go to harbor freight and buy an electric impact.
Great video man, I needed this!! Anyway you can post the link for the dizzy timing after doing the mechanical timing? I’m not sure which video on your channel it is
Looking at buying a D16Z6 Civic. Seller says they've replaced spark plugs, plug wires, cap, button, rotor, fuel filter, and iac. Also says the car is sluggish under acceleration at low RPM. Could this be bad cam timing, distributor timing, O2 sensor or something else?
Is the distributer advancing. Sitting caused mine to freeze - corrode in place. Car would run but not accelerate. Happened similarly to a VW I had. If it is vacuum advance one may observe the mechanism move when sucking on the diaphram. Cap off. Some VW used centrifical advance and the too may bind for whatever reason. Not likely your problem but these are somewhat symptomatic
You might want to take off the cylinder head and check your valves, most likely your exhaust valves are bent, I did everything on mines from buying new intake sensors and new distributors and all, and come to find all my valves on the exhaust side were bent and the stem seals were bad
@harleyjackson5513 I live in Louisville. I happy to hear that my videos help. I have found that's it's all pretty easy, it's just a matter of having the confidence in yourself to just get out there and do it.
You can pull #1 plug, put a long stick or screw driver down the cylinder turn the crank until the screw driver moves to the highest point. You will see it move up and down as you turn the crank. When the piston is at the top dead center (TDC) that's where you want it.
Theres a line on crank pulley far from three lines thats the tdc right? So what purpose of 3 lines cuz im watching some of videos on TH-cam they line up the line on that single line on the tdc im confused
Yes its the same, the only thing with a mini me swaps, usually the timing will always be off by a half of a tooth. Some people say you should use the head timing gear and some people say you should use the block timing gear, the same goes for the belt. Its all kinda up in the air as to which one you should use. I'm not familiar enough with mini me swaps, Ive only build one in my life and it was a b7 with a z6 head. It was so long ago I cant remember what I used, it was before I started recording videos. I do remember I had a hard time getting the timing right. The motor ended up throwing a rod a few months later. So what ever I did I Probably did it wrong. I would use an adjustable timing gear, this way you can easily adjust the timing to make up the difference of the belt and/or the thickness of the head. When setting the timing and you are a half of a tooth off you can adjust the timing gear to make up the half tooth. To me a mini me swap doesn't seem to be that reliable (Not that they cant be) The time a effort that will go into it you might as well have a matching Block/Head. Good luck with the swap!
@@alexus_ed6 Here is a pretty good write up that may help. If not join the MrJayDM Facebook Group and I can try to walk you through it. honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-d15-sohc-vtec-mini-me-massive-write-up-56k-goodbye-554053/
Technically no... But it makes it so much easier to pull it all out together. It is a little more work, you have to pull the axles and shift cable. The shift cable is kinda a pain because of the washer/tab on the bolt holding the cable to the transmissions. But it's not as difficult as the bitch pin on the manuals.
Not 100% sure what you are talking about... Maybe you are thinking of the Honda K Series, they use timing chain guides. The K Series uses a Chain not a belt.
At 2:40 you see the gear, it also has an angled mark at the bottom, I'm pretty sure all oem cam gears has some sort of extra mark, that should be on the bottom half of the gear when you line up the 2 notches.
The crank has a notch on the gear and on the oil pump there is an arrow, you want to line the notch on the crank gear with the arrow on the oil pump. When this is lined up the 1st and 4th piston are at TDC. It is done this way because of the firing order.
if you timing is off when you turn it counter clock wise to put tension on the belt, you can set the crank gear a little off to make up for when you put tension on the belt.
@@cli_flips what he means is if your timing gets out due to tension, you can take the crank gear. Counter rotate it the amount it was moving forward so when you apply tension to it moves to where it's supposed to be.
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Best timing video for this engine on here, and there are a lot. Truly appreciate you bro
Thank you!
When adjusting, do not use any force other than the adjuster spring. If the belt is too tight, it will result in a shortened belt life.
You're not a dumbass man! Good job! Very thorough and straight to the point. What a great idea to paint those marks!
Just bought an Ef hatch and never thought I’d be able to do timing until now, can’t wait to be back on the road
Happy I could help!! Thanks for watching
On a DOHC ZC there are two spots on the cams on top to put two 5mm drill bits to hold the cams in place. Then do everything as the video suggests but go a little off on the bottom crank mark (around 3 teeth off) so you compensate for the slack when you turn the bolt. Spot on timing every time!
This was a great video!! Thanks for making it! I’ve been needing to do this for my 91 CRX Si and this has been one of the most descriptive of what exactly is happening and why! Thanks!
A1
One of the best D series timing video on youtube!! You know it man
Thank you!
Great video.. Short (but important) note. On P08 (JDM) engines (example D15B) the cam timing marks don't align with the top of head. Instead there will be 3 notches in the plastic back cover (part number 11840-P08-010): two triangles showing P08 and one showing P28. On P08 heads the "Horizontally oriented" 2 lines will align with the 2 P08 notches and will be slightly slanted with reference to the top of head by about 1 gear tooth. On P08 engines if the CAM lines are aligned to the top of the head engine timing will be retarded (8 degrees for CAM 16 degrees for crank) and it will not be possible to set ignition timing successfully. Engine will still work but won't be optimal. On P28 engines you would of course align the single horizontal line to the P28 notch. The rest is perfect.
Good info!
Thank you soo much for this comment I have pulled apart and put back together my d15b in a 1999 Honda domani twice now and couldn’t work out why it wouldn’t run right not realising the timing marks are not at the top of the valve cover but the side of the engine
This might be the solution to my weak engine. Thanks
I put my d13b with a p2a head. It wont start. Any idea on timings sirs?
holy shit, ty so much. I was dealing with these weird notch/arrows on my d14z1 and couldnt figure it out, since everyone says you should align it with the top of the head.
Great video! Will help me big time as water got into my intake runners and has rusted the valves and seats in my head
Also while your in there I would suggest the cam and crank seal
I followed this video and kept finding if I turned the crank 3 times completely like you’d mentioned that my cam gear where it says “up” facing downward. I was going insane trying to fix this. After calling a buddy with more experience. He ask me if it lined up with just 2 turns. I said yea. I put an extension in the number one hole and sure enough it was tdc.
I cranked the car with no dizzy plugged in to hear any irregularity and it sound good. Started it and it purrs. So if anyones chasing their tail turning it 3 complete times and getting the “up” facing down. This may be an issue your having.
The "up" Mark will always, be on down side at 3 turns. Reason is, for each complete turn of crankshaft, camshaft turns half and so you will, get the "up" Mark again on top after two complete turns of crankshaft.
Great video! Very helpful and clearly laid out. I just got a 1992 Honda Civic CX Hatchback and the previous owner installed the camshaft like 90 degrees off.
Glad it helped!
Just subscribed. Literally rebuilding my block today
This saved me! I was having trouble based on a couple other videos & this worked great.
Excellent video. Thank you. From South Africa.
Very educative. I have learnt a lot.But I am facing a problem when I engage a gear the engine stops and jumps the timing.I don't know the problem.when I reset the timing again the engine start efficiently but on engaging the gear it stops again
If the engine runs in neutral and you can rev the engine in neutral, its not the engine. I would guess the trans has a issue, like its stuck and wont rotate and its making the engine come to a sudden stop which is causing the timing belt to jump. If you have a manual transmission I would say the clutch isn't installed correctly, If you have an auto, then IDK. But it sounds like you have a transmission problem. Did you put in a new clutch or have the transmission separated from the engine?
Awesome video changing my water pump and I was worried, just needed some reassurance
You can do it! Its easier than you think.
this video is a layed out perfectly thanks
I assume this is all done with cylinder 1 on TDC?
Now im no mechanical or at least a professional but im doing a engine swap with a d series in my 2000 Civic LX and would this tutorial follow along the lines of a 2000 d series? Because i was scrolling through some comments and ive noticed the newest d series comment ive seen was on a 92 civic so i want wondering if this tutorial was similar for a 2000? I dont know much about honda engines and i just bought my 2000 civic lx and the engine cumbusted, im assuming its a timing belt failiure and i decided to swap the engine for another with lower miles and i just decided to change the timing belt and a little maintenance while the engine was out. I apologize if the question is dumb, im not the sharpest tool in the shed but i was just asking for that
Yes, all D- series are pretty much the same.
damn, setting timing was always intimidating but after your video, I'm ready to do mine. ty!
Yes, I thought the same thing many years ago. The only real intimidating thing I have come across is rebuilding an auto transmission. These old 88-2001 Honda's are very simple, that's why I like them so much. Cheap and easy..
Hey Mr JayDM! I hope you're still active on here...
I bought a Civic with a D series with a y8 block and a y7 head, the kid I got it from replaced the cam flywheel with a lightweight one, never put the OEM cover back on. There are no notch indicators or anything to match up timing. The car is idling really rough and misfiring, so I'm definitely guessing timing issue. Is there any way to do timing without these indicators on the D series motors by matching up the Firing on cylinder 1 and rocking on 4? Any advice on how I should go about it? Thank you ahead of time!
The best thing to do is get a y7 or y8 cam gear (They are the same) and reset the timing. If you cant get one locally, I can send you one for $40 shipped (USA / Lower 48). If you want the timing cover (Upper/Lower Cover + Gear) I can do $80 Shipped (USA / Lower 48) contact me via Facebook group facebook.com/groups/MrJayDM If interested. The y7 and y8 timing covers are the same as well. To set the dizzy timing correctly you will need at least the lower timing cover.
After installing the belt you turn counterclockwise to remove the slack from the belt the crank is no longer on the arrow
and the cam hasn't moved ? Is the timing still correct ?
Do you compensate by advancing the crank 3 teeth
If you are having this problem you can set the crank arrow a little off to make up the difference when you turn it to put tension on the belt.
HI , thank you for sharing, video is very simple but clear and understandable. I think i can do it with your instructions . 😄
Thank you sir for sharing and teaching.. love you..
Dude your the man
Thanks I appreciate it!
Thanks Mr Jdm Guy!!
Is this still the same for DOHC, just make sure each camshaft is at the top 0 mark?
hi mr Jim what if your crank gear doesn't have that notch on it? mine does not have that notch it's a d15 z1 how can I put it in timing.? thanks in advance
All the SOHC Hondas should be the same for setting the timing belt up right?
You just answered my question in the. Video
Thanks
Yes they are all pretty much the same
I love this video, thanks for making and sharing.
Thanks for watching, I hope it helps!
Excellent job and thank you!
Glad you liked it! Glad I could help!!
Greetings from Russia👍/Привет из России👍
But what about the bottom mark on the cam gear? Its off 1 tooth even though everything lines up??
very nice description,thanks
I’m sorry for my stupid questions but how do you turn the engine clockwise without the crank bolt losing tension from the thread?
Wdym losing tension?
Doing this to an 88 civic with a D15B1. How can i torque down the crankshaft nut without an impact drill? I used a breaker bar to remove it but have no idea how to retighten. This is also stopping me from removing the slack from the left side of the belt. Any help?
You can rent the Honda crank pulley tool from an auto parts store, but I'm not sure if the D15b1 crank pulley has the hexagon for the tool to go into or you can take the starter out and put a crowbar in the ring gear to lock the engine from moving. I would just go to harbor freight and buy an electric impact.
Was that a belt guide you put on the crank right before the cover?
Do you need to allign all the markings before you remove the actual timing belt?
No, the markings are for turning the engine. It has nothing to do with the timing belt.
Bro where is the crank sensor located
Great video man, I needed this!! Anyway you can post the link for the dizzy timing after doing the mechanical timing? I’m not sure which video on your channel it is
Awesome video man thank you
Glad you liked it
Looking at buying a D16Z6 Civic. Seller says they've replaced spark plugs, plug wires, cap, button, rotor, fuel filter, and iac. Also says the car is sluggish under acceleration at low RPM. Could this be bad cam timing, distributor timing, O2 sensor or something else?
Is the distributer advancing. Sitting caused mine to freeze - corrode in place. Car would run but not accelerate. Happened similarly to a VW I had. If it is vacuum advance one may observe the mechanism move when sucking on the diaphram. Cap off. Some VW used centrifical advance and the too may bind for whatever reason. Not likely your problem but these are somewhat symptomatic
@@j1j11j I'll keep that in mind for the future! Thanks!
You might want to take off the cylinder head and check your valves, most likely your exhaust valves are bent, I did everything on mines from buying new intake sensors and new distributors and all, and come to find all my valves on the exhaust side were bent and the stem seals were bad
Mr.JayDM, are you located in Kentucky?
Yes
@@MrJayDM where abouts in Kentucky, I am close to Taylorsville.
I managed to replace a broken timing belt on a 95 Del Sol with your help.
@harleyjackson5513 I live in Louisville. I happy to hear that my videos help. I have found that's it's all pretty easy, it's just a matter of having the confidence in yourself to just get out there and do it.
What is the other mark and pointer on plastic?
heres grande brother
What if your crank gear doesn't have any marks on it. What should u do
You can pull #1 plug, put a long stick or screw driver down the cylinder turn the crank until the screw driver moves to the highest point. You will see it move up and down as you turn the crank. When the piston is at the top dead center (TDC) that's where you want it.
Good information thanks you bro i from Malaysia
You are very Welcome!!
Super job ❤
Excellent video. Thank you
Theres a line on crank pulley far from three lines thats the tdc right? So what purpose of 3 lines cuz im watching some of videos on TH-cam they line up the line on that single line on the tdc im confused
Join the MrJayDM Facebook Group and we can discuss. Link in the description.
GREAT !
Can I ask u a ? On this video will this be the same on a mini me swap like a d15b7 z6 head or a b15b7 block with a y8 head with the timmin be the same
Yes its the same, the only thing with a mini me swaps, usually the timing will always be off by a half of a tooth. Some people say you should use the head timing gear and some people say you should use the block timing gear, the same goes for the belt. Its all kinda up in the air as to which one you should use. I'm not familiar enough with mini me swaps, Ive only build one in my life and it was a b7 with a z6 head. It was so long ago I cant remember what I used, it was before I started recording videos. I do remember I had a hard time getting the timing right. The motor ended up throwing a rod a few months later. So what ever I did I Probably did it wrong. I would use an adjustable timing gear, this way you can easily adjust the timing to make up the difference of the belt and/or the thickness of the head. When setting the timing and you are a half of a tooth off you can adjust the timing gear to make up the half tooth. To me a mini me swap doesn't seem to be that reliable (Not that they cant be) The time a effort that will go into it you might as well have a matching Block/Head. Good luck with the swap!
@@MrJayDM having troubles with mine as well I have a d15b with a z6 head idk what gear to use
@@alexus_ed6 Here is a pretty good write up that may help. If not join the MrJayDM Facebook Group and I can try to walk you through it. honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faq-d15-sohc-vtec-mini-me-massive-write-up-56k-goodbye-554053/
@@MrJayDM appreciate it
1999 honda civic with automatic transmission, do you have to take the transmission out to swap the engine?
Technically no... But it makes it so much easier to pull it all out together. It is a little more work, you have to pull the axles and shift cable. The shift cable is kinda a pain because of the washer/tab on the bolt holding the cable to the transmissions. But it's not as difficult as the bitch pin on the manuals.
Thank you!
Good video thank you!!!
Everytime I do this and spin it around it’s always 1 tooth off bro. Idk what I’m doing wrong
What engine and head combo? If you are doing a mini-me you will always be a 1/2 or full tooth off.
@@MrJayDMit’s a d15b8 , i believe I was just a tooth off because it’s my first time
Do these d series use two guide spacers that guide belt?
Not 100% sure what you are talking about... Maybe you are thinking of the Honda K Series, they use timing chain guides. The K Series uses a Chain not a belt.
thanks fam got a sub. doing a y7
Nice thanks man
Any time!
Nice video 👍
What about top dead center what about the distributor
Dizzy timing is a little different I kind of explained it in this video.
you think you can help my crx has no spark with same engine as yours
Join the Facebook group, make a post and I'll will try and help. facebook.com/groups/MrJayDM
What about d17a1 and a2?
What if the cam gear doesn’t have an up position but has those two lines
At 2:40 you see the gear, it also has an angled mark at the bottom, I'm pretty sure all oem cam gears has some sort of extra mark, that should be on the bottom half of the gear when you line up the 2 notches.
@@MrJayDM mine has like an 8 and a 6 at the bottom or top and a hole for again the top or bottom
What engine is it? I'm interested in seeing the cam gear. Please join the MrJayDM Facebook Group and post a picture. facebook.com/groups/MrJayDM
Thanks 👍
You are very welcome!!
Thank you
You're welcome
But TDC is the single line right?
The crank has a notch on the gear and on the oil pump there is an arrow, you want to line the notch on the crank gear with the arrow on the oil pump. When this is lined up the 1st and 4th piston are at TDC. It is done this way because of the firing order.
You don't have to remove anything from bottom to do timing
You are correct if you are just re adjusting the timing. If you are replacing the belt and water pump then yes you need to remove the timing cover.
How many teeth does a d16 timing belt have?
I did it right....whew!
I wish I would've seen this before 🤦.... To remove the entire engine or to struggle with no engine space .... Decisions decisions....
If you have your engine out its best to do all this with it out. If not it's a very tight area to work with but still doable.
You cant just do this its not going to WORK tryed it servel times
if you timing is off when you turn it counter clock wise to put tension on the belt, you can set the crank gear a little off to make up for when you put tension on the belt.
@@MrJayDM I’ve seen u comment this twice what do u mean set the crank gear a little off?
@@MrJayDM having the same issue
@@cli_flips what he means is if your timing gets out due to tension, you can take the crank gear. Counter rotate it the amount it was moving forward so when you apply tension to it moves to where it's supposed to be.
He is not right that is not all you do do listin to him
setting the mechanical timing is just that. IF you are adding the dizzy timing then yes there is more to it.
I agree... There are 3 different ways to set timing marks on camshaft depending on if it's a 1.6 vs 1.5 and if it's -'95 or '96+...
I wish I could post photo to explain this better
Some engines use single point tdc on bottom marker..
Another uses arrows on back cover..
... and others use flush with head...