Instrument panel
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มี.ค. 2020
- In this video I do more plumbing, install and wire the instrument panel, install the temperature sender, starting mounting wall a computer, install the raw water flow alarm and replace the kinked cooling hose with a 90 degree hose.
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The Olympic torch, priceless.
Please give us more. We are confined to our houses, or just leave the camera on the chicken.
Thanks for your efforts, but please do a few specials.
Regards from North Wales UK
xxx
Yeah, more chickens...
More chickens!
D Squad! Not just yer ordinary chickens You know
"D-SQUAD" - with a Mission Impossible type theme song to start if off!
Yay chicken cam!
Your comment on "Hopefully someone comments on my fuel line before I blow myself up" CRACKED me up. STU your adjusting to these TH-cam comments like a champ as they come in. Great work...
From all the madness going on, normality has somewhat returned for 27mins and 57 seconds. Thanks for the upload Stu!
You're welcome. :)
Keep scratching stuff off the list Stu! One step closer !!!
I recently started to watch the beginning of the "how bad of an idea is it to buy a steel boat, I bought a steel boat" series again. Man I forgot where this project started, you have come so far on this. Thanks for taking us along Stu!
Thanks mate. I should probably do the same to remind myself.
@@DangarMarine You should watch one of the videos that had you taking the detroit. You will realize just how much work you have done. Heck, watch one of those videos of you using a cut off wheel to cut that rub rail or whatever it was off. That was so much that you got done in really not that much time.
We're stuck in the house but your videos are a light at dark times
The "Olympic Tourch" ......you made this Global !!! ....I spit beer on the floor !!! Thank You for the Fun !!!
Hi Stu, an old plumber's trick for a wet pipe is to pack white bread into it, and do the solder joint. Eventually the bread more or less dissolves. If you have pressure on the tank side, the bread should be easy to push out. Good luck! Or you could put in a compression fitting ball valve and reduce it after the valve.
All those dangling hoses need to be supported so they are secure in rough seas.
Linda Colaprete wire ties! They make them up to 60” :-)
I still think that it is really cool that you are making a Dingy for Project Brupeg.
I used to be a diesel mechanic for MAN. You crawling out of the engine bay brought back so many sweaty memories. Haha
Danger Stu. Practising social distancing like a boss
"I'm glad I don't like Detroit diesels that much or I'd never get out of here..."
Took me about 3 seconds to process that before I started laughing...
I didn't get it at all, until i read your comment, cheers.
😂 me too.
Troy Johnson I’m frack n fat I would die down there. :-)
Now I get it
@@TheJustonemore Me too!
Nice to see it coming together Stu .Instead of brazing a 3/8 barb on the copper fuel line how about going with 1/2" flexible fuel hose sleeved over the copper, one of your bonzer hose clamps will keep it on.
Thanks for the vid Stu, distraction from life at the moment is invaluable.
I really like the screen saver on your phone - makes it look like someone beat it with a mallet. Go D-Squad!!!
Stu, You should not use barbed fittings on a fuel line. Check with heavy equipment parts supply and order a proper fuel line. You will specify a hose that connects to the 1/2" tube via a compression fitting, then to what ever fitting you need at the engine. The hose will be rated as a fuel line. Cut the tube below the fitting you have and install the hose.
Love the channel. Al from Brooks, Alberta, Canada.
Ahhh! thanks Stu the perfect antidote for Corvid 19 self isolation. That engine looks beautiful, nice job.
After many years as a marine mechanic and chief engineer on tug boats, I recommend using flare fittings with a double flare. I never had one fail. They come in so many types, i'm sure you can find what you need to make the connection with different sizes.
Keep up the good work and videos.
Hank
The good thing about being a welder and owning the boat you're working on is...if the engine is blocking the entry into the compartment....you can cut a new entry! You were going to replace large chunks of the deck plating anyways. Now you can add a hatch here and there to make your life easier.
With that fresh Detroit paint coat, I'd never get out of that engine bay
These videos are about the only sane thing going on these days thank you for the content I can count on. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It's looking more and more like a finished boat. That engine bay looks amazing.
Next week: *Stu has blown himself up*
SV seeker: "Hey that's my line!"
Leo, Tom, Stu all these videos make my self isolation much much less depressing
Nice D Squad shirt! Clucking Champs!
You can put a piece of bread in the fuel line while you are doing your brazing. After the brazing is completed you can add fuel to the tank and flush out the bread.
I like that weight reduction trick! :)
Lots of interesting stuff this week. And it's good that poor Daffy can get a good rest.
Okay so now I'm wondering if we'll be seeing an episode soon where you install that remaining part of the blower and then discover that you can't get out from behind it :-)
Stu, you may want to install a water-tight door between the engine room and the accommodations. This would allow easy access to the engine and maintinance. The current configuration limits access and reduces what maintnance can or will be done. That limited access was likely the cause of some of the boats issues.
Yes, have a plan to do just that.
Nice to have a glimpse of normal life in this upside down world we currently live in.
Stay safe, and keep up the great work!
Ps! please do not blow yourself up.. ;)
An adapter you say? I know a bloke who does good work lol. Great to see things coming along nicely Stu. Cheers mate.
That was a nice fitting you made mate - good on you helping Dangar Stu out. Do you watch any of This Old Tony's home shop machining videos? I love them.
@@ApprenticeGM As it turned out, I didn't make it at all. A mate of a bloke I know down the road ended up making it in his workshop as that was a more cost effective option than me buying the tap and drill to do the job. It was made to my specs though. I have not watched Tony but have heard of him ad will go sub now. cheers.
For the fitting on the fuel line, just use a compression joint to put the barb on? I’ve brazed on contaminated lines before and it doesn’t go well, diesel has a flash point too.
Great content. Thanks.
Keep it simple you now have to backup everything.working on boats or ships is quiet challenging.It is always in a heavy sea and lots of swearing and bruises.More wiring more power.Good luck Adam
calculating checksums in your head, like a boss
You are really putting your nose to the gring stone man. I believe a small rubber plug with a long screw in the middle will be sufficient to block the fuel line off so you can braze your fitting on. Pull the plug out with the screw when done. Keep up the good work, great video as usual.
Nice idea. :)
It's really starting to take shape. You should be proud of your efforts
The D Squad "Don't Cluck with Us" T shirt is sensational!
Things looking good in the engine bay, does that engine shut of solenoid boot have a tear? Keep up the great videos mate. All the best from Bribie Island.
Hell of a Job on the engine bay Stu! I love me some Detroit Diesels, currently swapping out a 6.2l Detroit for a 6.5l Turbo Detroit in my pickup... couldn't resist repainting the valve covers with that lovely Detroit Green.
Fuel line- if compression fittings aren't available, you should be able to flare the copper line; hydraulic fittings -AN or plumbing fittings. Also you can find fittings at refrigeration supply house. Your making excellent progress if any suggest otherwise ----- them.
22:00 about the Barb: If you're going to put in a soft line you'll want to have a fuel valve in there which you can solder from the outside of the pipe low temperature-ish. Then you can use that valve to seal the fuel underneath while you braze on the 3/8th Barb. You'll also have a cut off to the fuel if you ever need to replace the soft line with a full tank of diesel, or if there's a leak.
I agree, the valve can be a lifesaver, literally in more ways than one.
Engine bay is looking bl**dy great Stu - a credit to ya (gotta get a D-Squad T!)
Thanks mate! :)
Alison: None of us will blush if you wrote out 'bloody' in full :)
I agree. I almost feel like it is a place of surgery as an engine room should have at least one kind of leak
Brian Jones True - but it’s not my channel so I try to take care...
Hey Stu, totally unrelated to this video but wanted to say thanks for your older videos on outboards. They've been a great deal of help while I've been working on a motor that I was given. Even went over to marine engine to get a replacement trigger. Thanks again and best wishes from the US.
You're welcome mate, glad they helped you. :)
Love watching these videos, now that we really can't go anywhere for awhile, I may go back and watch the whole series again!!!
State of the art lightening -- I installed some in the office wall around the drape hanger brackets.
Oh there is a new Upload from my favorite Guy from Down Under, hit like... then watch the Video with joy
Thanks mate!
"These extra holes are me just trying to take some weight out of the bracket" LOL
Yeah right! Lol
Damn I was getting ready to reply to this very statement.When I went in to do it your post was first.Drilled extra holes for weight reduction.Yet the holes had rust on them from the previous use of the piece of aluminum.lol
You should try and get an aluminum valve cover with a breather and an oil filler. You would also need the bolts, washers, isolators and gasket. Those tin covers are known oil leakers. Also try and support the hoses with stand-off brackets, you would be surprised how heavy they are when they are full of fluid and also the vibration from the engine can knock them loose.
progress big or small is always progress , good luck Dangar Marine !
Hey Stu, for the fuel line, maybe pressurise it higher up with air to force the fuel back into the tank then close off the valve then remove the pressure. Cut, clean and braze. The bit of left over diesel won’t do much. Happy days.
Great video series. Always look forward each week. I have a tip for you regarding the correct size supply fuse for main or sub main circuits. The current rating or rupture current shoulder rated to the the size of the cable suppling your devices. The function of a fuse in a supply circuit is to protect the cable not the devices hanging off it. As you can imagine overloaded cables creat heat which could ultimately melt the conductor insulation and creat dead shorts an possible fires... the cable supplying the loads or devices should be sized appropriately to the sum of device loads plus minimum 50% for diversity and possible short circuits. Cable current carrying capacities are easily available on Google. If your device requires a smaller size fuse than the main or sub main then install an appropriate inline fuse as close as practice to that device. Cheers Shane
Looks like you may now check off a lot of tasks on your To Do list.
i remember wrapping exhaust headers with asbestos cloth as a kid on my uncles Buick
I like this video, the feeling for me is "we" are getting so close that its starting to be less MAJOR activity and more like fine tuning and housekeeping. As I watch you reach surprising pauses in a project I was imaging a video that could sum up all the "where is my tool, why are all these bolts different sizes, why did they screw and glue?": the video would be about walking down some stairs, but first we need to find our shoes, on has a broken shoelace but it cant be slipped out because the previous owner tied lots of knots in it and used glue and tape to hold it together, just getting the shoes ready to go down the stairs is like six videos and once we reach the stairs! oh boy do things get complicated! ha! good luck and I'm really looking forward to the sleeping compartment coming together, camping on the boat sounds great!!.
It is amazing how much of that sort of thing goes on. As a previous viewer said, Murphy was an optimist.
Small nit: Coils have no polarity, solenoids anyway. The way to remember this: if you ever played with a permanent magnet in a sand box then you know the ends collect iron filings. Which end attracts them? N or S? Ans: both do. Either way you power a DC solenoid it will attract the iron plunger. Great video!
Good point. Thanks for sharing. :)
Hey Stu, hope you are coping OK with the Coronavirus insanity that seems to have infected mankind. Stay well and please do what you can to keep the content flowing. You have NO idea how valuable it is to us housebound folk over here in the UK. Cheers to everyone else that watches Stu - stay well, stay safe!
I will have to steal the “Olympic Torch” line to go along with “ Own your boat, don’ t let your boat own you”. Thanks Stu from a social distancer on Cape Cod, USA. Great time to knock off my “ honey- do list” I guess. Be well.
Every little bit helps Stu..looking good!
Love the rugby jersey.
Best of luck from Ireland.☘️
May I suggest another layer of glass tape around that exhaust. It will get pretty hot!
i am in the process of restoring a 1978 cajun mach I with new electronic's,LED lights,Gauges, GPS speedometer, new led volt gauges for both sets up batteries, i am a electronic's tech love watching what all you do on the projects i made my own spinning turret led spot light its coming along pretty nice hoping to get it out on the water soon and get some fishing in but keep up the good work love watching your videos always looking for better ideas. i am in arkansas usa fishing lake ouachita
you could make a bracket to support hoses using car exhaust rubber blocks and shaped hanger rods. keep up the great work.
She's getting there Stu you have come along way with all your hard work cheers.
l love watching you doing what you gota do....Thanks mate....Take care of that back or it will do you in.....Stay safe...Thank you very much....From..Kentucky...!
Hey Stu, having wired a few boats myself one thing I learned is to always leave a service loop in the wire bundle at the switch panel. it makes going back later so much easier! Your work is looking great!
For sure, this panel is going to need to come off again down the track so some slack is going to be needed.
Why not just come from the fuel tank shut-off valves with one new line all the way up to the fuel filters?
Stu I kinda like that you need to stop jobs until you can source parts, for me as a longtime viewer it gives a realistic account of what happens in the REAL world whilst also provides a variety within the segment ..... keep up the good work, I’m enjoying every new vid 🍻
I think the warts and all aspect of TH-cam, although not always great from an entertainment point of view, is good for people who are thinking of doing a similar restoration themselves.
Looks like you need a new hatch, or two, to take advantage of the space around your engine. I can only imagine how lazy I would get thinking of an oil change on the engine.
Great progress, like your style, do what you can and do the rest when you can.
Hi , when you were operating the solenoid it was hitting the coolant pipe. Great video. Stay safe 👍🇬🇧😷
Yes, it will all get secured before it is finished.
What about using brass compression fittings commonly used for home plumbing for the fuel line? Just use the ones with the brass olive.
A high quality bungee cord is good for unloading weight on hoses etc.
For example, they are used on articulating tracked vehicles between front and rear cabin (cooling hoses and electrical).
Sounds like a good options. I've been mulling over what to use for that job.
If you are going to combine hoses together with cable ties you should put some foam rubber or rubber hose between each so that through vibration it won't chafe on eachother plus even the cable tie should have some rubber between it & the hose such as a cut down bicycle tube because through vibration a hard cable tie can cut into any soft hose.
you can also run a brass compression fitting for your fuel line and avoid brazing the line with fuel in it all together and would be a faster long term solution
May try to put a whole new line on from the bottom of the fuel tank. That way it’s new from one end to the other.
Stu mate.
Im planning a road trip to see you. Myself and my best mate are boat mad and really love your channel, we recently went on a boys trip to Denmark in Western Australia and kicked back watching old episodes of yours while we drank piss and talked about road tripping over there to see you.
Mate if your truely keen on sitting back and having a beer with a couple of fans mate then let me know. 👌😊
Sounds like fun. :)
Stu, cut that fuel line off and use a flare fitting so you don't need to braze it. Flare connecter to a barb fitting.
Awesome as usual Stu,saved the best till last,take care and stay safe
G'day mate good to see you again it's amazing how much ancillary objects go onto the engine, and careful planning so hoses don't rub against hot parts of the engine ect., your certainly losing room to get into it. One good thing about fixing the boat out in the water you have a magnificent backdrop it really is a beautiful place to have a mooring. It's looking good Stu very neat it's turning out very nice how are the girls? Kind regards John.
Stu, you're almost convincing me that I need to get a few chickens. I look forward to the end of the videos so I can see how they do. Interesting critters. Watching from Fairbanks, Alaska.
Tim Saxer I’m watching from Anchorage Alaska 👍
What a bloody jersey!! Ya beauty!!!
Me again Stu, I recently bought a Ryobi blower and trimmer set which came with a 4 Ah battery, I was astounded at the stamina of the battery, I have since bought a mouse sander, a hedge clipper with extra grass cutter blade and ... an angle grinder!
I've been cutting and grinding concrete with it and it just won't stop unless you lose your grip or purposely let it stop, oh and that's with a 115 mm blade or disc, definitely not a toy.
Having said that if you ask Ryobi to gift you with all the tools you think you might need then seeing you have global exposure they might just come across.
Just thinking, this comment alone is worth $$$$$$ to them because everybody in the world is now glued to real reality shows like yours and Brupeg and La Vagabonde and Sailing Nandji and SV Delos and RAN Sailing and Sailing Uma and ...
Come to think about that some have supermodels and you have your Chookens and dear Eddy
PS, not victory bitter but Victoria Bitter or Vic Bitter, for the rest of the world please enjoy the ad from when they were real;
th-cam.com/video/WA1h9h7-_Z4/w-d-xo.html
Great episode Stu. It really feels like the home stretch now.
Thanks mate. I really had that feeling too after this week. It certainly didn't feel so insurmountable anymore. Some fuel and exhaust and we are off! :)
I do like the music when you work. Haven't noticed it in a while. Glad you brought it back...
Nice work Stu, she's coming together well.
Bracket weight reduction....very important..
Gotta admit, that one took me a second.
Thanks for another great video Stu, You are making great progress, albeit hindered by lack of parts. Keep up the great work
Nice to see you got my shirt Stu. Love the videos. keep em coming!
Good work Stu, cheers!
PEX tubing offers a slip-on tiger fitting capability .. perhaps you should investigate those methods of transitioning from copper to another material?
Taking some weight out of the bracket. Now that was funny! Lol! Cheers!
I enjoy seeing the progress, even the fiddly bits of connecting all the controls, sensors, cooling and electrical systems. Being able to scratch those tasks off your list really lifts a burden and moves the final goal closer.
Just don't get so distracted by working on the trawler that you fail to keep your strategic beer reserve well-stocked. ;-)
Woohoo stu you are in third gear now. The fun is getting close there bud. I am working on a 35 foot Canadian gillnet fishing boat thank you for all your useful tips on wiring and mostly everything boat, have a good week, can’t wait for the next video.
Hi Stu, your wiring is great, we need more vids on this
Starting to come together. Must feel good!
Blow the fuel out of the line back into the tank.
Then, seal the vent on the tank. A bit like putting your thumb on the end of a straw, you can stop
It flowing back.
Yes there’s still a vapour risk, but it clears the line of raw fuel.
Brazing is so much better than saddle clamps which can tend to leak over time due to engine harmonics. Nice job of weight reduction on that mounting bracket Stu, LOL !
Your Diesel Pipe cutting.... If it is 1/2 inch OD it is a standard Refigeration pipe size, you could cut it with a wheel cutter, for a clean cut, and then FLARE it 45° with a Refigeration Flaring tool, remember to put a 1/2 inch flare nut on before flaring!
You would then be able to use a 1/2 inch male flare brass fitting to 1/2 inch BSP thread.
Hope this helps
I am tempted to go this way for the simple reason that I've never done any hard line flaring before and I do like learning new techniques. Plus, who doesn't love an excuse to buy a new tool. :)
@@DangarMarine Great, Best to practice flaring on a scrap piece of 1/2 inch OD refrigeration copper pipe, you would have to reamer out the internal burr on the cut pipe end and clamp the pipe about 1/16th of an inch proud of the flare block, use a little oil on the flare tool.
Please double check that this is 1/2 inch OD and not plumbers pipe which is 1/2 inch ID, plumbers pipe is not compatable with Fridge Flare fittings.
Finally if there is no Diesel near the cut it would help greatly to anneal the pipe before flaring with you blow torch.
Don't forget to put the 1/2 inch flare nut on the pipe befor flaring
If you know a local Fridge Engineer he would be able to sort you out rapidly
Good Luck
Cheers
Eanan Brighouse UK, Retired Fridge Engineer.
PS, FYI You could also fit an 1/2 inch Flare Fridge Ball Shut-off valve 90° action in this location and then add an adapter to your upper pipe,
or better still buy a coil of soft drawn 1/2 inch refrigeration copper pipe and run it to your pleasure.
Even better there are 1/2 inch anaconda flexible anti vibration pipes about 10 inches in length in both Braze of Flare fitting available.
All Good for well over 300 psi operating pressure
Fridge pipe has a thicker wall than domestic plumbers