I recall from a recent video that you have some issues with those angry pixie accumulators, hope you get it sorted out and spares you the expense for new ones.
Thank you Stu! My old Navy boat has a DD 4-53 and now, through your tutelage, I have changed the raw water impeller; rebuilt the blower assembly, changed the rocker cover and gasket, and am beginning to re wire.
Thanks for the extra posts Stu. It not only helps relieve the boredom, but also teaches me useful stuff. Very easy to understand explanation too, as usual.
I was just cruising around the site when I caught a glimpse of a very nice looking Blue boat and after looking at it for a few moments it hit that this impressive looking boat was your boat. She sure is a pretty boat, you have done some miracles with it.
Thanks Stu. I appreciate that you don't just show us you repairing things but explaining how they work. Your video on Wet Exhaust Vs. Dry Exhaust was great. Sorry I could not find a pithy remark to include in this comment incorporating any Nulon products.
Thanks for a nice Technical demonstration. Might help less mechanical boat owners understand the importance of not dry starting/running a motor. Keep up the great videos.
Thank you STU for uploading these videos faster then normal. Sitting around the house is driving me crazy. Makes us feel like were out there with you as you are doing these projects. Take care..
Stu, great explanation on the working of a flexible impeller pump. Outboard pumps, while also being flexible impeller pumps, act as both a displacement pump and a circulating or centrifugal pump. At low to moderate speeds the pump works just as you described for the flexible impeller pump. At high speeds, the resistance of the water in the pump causes the blades to move inward and away from the inside surface of the pump. At that point, it becomes a circulating pump. The forward motion of the lower unit through the water provides the impetus needed to prime the 'centrifugal' pump.
Interesting to hear, and it does make sense that once you have a continuous flow of water that you just need to keep it moving like when siphoning a fluid. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with us!
@@DangarMarine Stu, thanks. You do a great job explaining all of the workings of your engine, projects and boat. Given my advanced years, I have picked up some as I worked on outboards since I was 8. I used to collect and restore antique outboards and a number of them had metal impellers and pumped fairly well as long as the pump was submerged and there was no thermostat. Can't wait to see your boat under weigh. And if I had a Detroit that looked as good as yours, I would have a plexiglass hatch over it for all to see.
Stu, I am in lockdown like many others at home in nz( and very lucky to be safe/health etc ) . Thanks for posting this week, I really enjoy seeing the progress! Adam
Thanks Stu for going over the Jabsco basics, I just wanted to add that often your Jabsco is located low on the engine near the water line and should have a P trap arrangement like a home plumbing fixture in order to trap some water in it to prevent dry starts. Keep sailing, no submarines.
Ok, this is a tad complicated but hopefully Stu will read and understand. When cruising the Pacific Northwest sea grass or other flotsam fairly often plugs the raw water inlet. A friend I met decided waiting for the temperature alarm to indicate a problem wasn't ideal. So, like Stu, he installed a flow meter. But, being an electrical engineer, he took the flow sensor and added the signal to the rpm of the engine and sounded an alarm when flow vs rpm was too low. When this happened he would put a hand air pump on a T fitting from the hose out of the raw water inlet and pump air back through the inlet to clear the obstruction. He thought that was less damaging than my wire coat hanger solution and didn't require pulling off the hose. Anyway, love the videos. Let me know if you want to help my friend market his invention...🙂
Thanks for posting Stu. Haven’t been out of the house for 6 days because of lockdown so it’s nice to see the videos. Going fishing Mon-Wed Channel Islands CA to get out of the house but I love the videos man. You do a great job.
Hey Stu, thanks for the extra content this week, it's very much appreciated! Couple episodes back you had on a D-Squad shirt......when they gonna be in the shop mate???
In the shop now. The only way I can get them myself is to add them to the shop and the order one. :) There are a couple of new Renko shirts there too, but I'm waiting until I get paid next month to order one of each so I can check them. teespring.com/stores/dangar-marine
Good tips mate, Thanks..really enjoying the extra effort you are posting this week..Trying times are made much better by your extra new uploads..Keep an eye on those chooks though mate they could be a much desired item soon for their free eggs and at a pinch they mould make nice soft toot paper alternatives. Stay safe mate
Stu you may have discussed what size bilge pump to use, but do you take into consideration the volume of water that can be supplied by the largest seacock on the boat in determining bilge pump size? Also would it be beneficial to install a Tee at the raw water strainer with valve and a hose running down into the bilge so that the Jabsco raw water pump could be used as an extra or in additional bilge pump in an emergency?
Sizing can be important for sure. I've unfortunatley gone 1/2 smaller than what in the boat originally due to that being biggest through hull seacocks I could get. I have thought about adding the ability to use the cooling pump as a bilge pump. This is normally achieved by installing a seachest that combines all plumbing.
Jabsco water impeller pumps are great. It will be fantastic when someone can invent a heat resistant impeller, like that ovenproof latex bakeware? Stu......., Read on! We have a 26 foot wooden clinker 2 cylinder Lister Petter 25Hp diesel with a Jabsco impeller for both engine, bilge or pressuring a seawater hose by manually diverting the water. Stu, with ours, if it ran dry or with the sea cock closed, it overheats & can easily perish. Had the boat for more than 45yrs now (dad bought it when I was 12) and mum basically kept it in the family after my dad died 1 yr into owning the "Lokalee". I was always on it from a young age, it was our 2nd boat. The first was a 22 foot Diesel 1 cylinder clinker build boat with no electrics. We had old brass kerosene Port & Starboard lamps & a small kerosene riding light. Been past Dangar Island many times Stu! (Never been ashore there). Our boat is down in Middle Harbour, my brother works at Northbridge Marina. His friend is a friend of yours he calls "a bloody mad spearfisherman". Ring any bells? I have loved your series on "Renko". From your outboard videos I have fixed & sold 3 "council clean up" lawn mowers, two were 2 stroke, the other a 4 stroke. I used to have both chickens & ducks, until the stupid council told me no more! (Meaning no longer). Some obscure ordinance. It is still a pain buying eggs, my girls eggs were so much richer and I love the taste of duck eggs!
It does make sense about the impellers given you can get silicon baking trays these days. Maybe they aren't strong enough from an abrasion point of view. Sounds like a nice couple of boats. Not sure who the "bloody mad spearfisherman" is though!
Aawwww Stu did you put warm water in the sink to save your wee hands? I notice you turned off the Hot And Cold taps @ 6.34. Legend! Loved the explanation of the Jabsco pump.
Hi Stu, your Jabsco pump setup looks OK. Another setup; plumb the pump at the bottom of an "S" bend that traps a volume of water to keep the impellor wet at all times. This setup is good for boats that are regularly taken out of the water. Also wipe the impeller all over with silicon rubber grease "Molykote valve & "O"ring grease " this is a rubber conditioner and will extend the life of the impellor by a factor of many. I hope this helps. Cheers
Good tip! As you say, just keeping a small amount of water to lubricate the pump on startup makes a lot of sense, particularly for boats that live out of the water.
Those neoprene impellers seem to wear fairly quickly or simply fly to pieces and jam up the works. I now see how much stress and load they are under. Thank you for the explanation Stu, good video mate. I hope you and yours are doing well during this pandemic.
That pump you have is set up for a sea water deck wash hose reason for the clutch on it. Jabsco pumps can handle dirty water better than a centrifugal pump.
This! Looks like that was the deck wash pump not the raw water cooling pump. Also if the pump only activates when it gets power wouldn’t that trip the alarm whenever it wasn’t running? I would think a clutch pump would be dangerous on a cooling pump and there’s no downside to it always running.
Yes, was just using this one for the demo to show the impellers. Cooling pumps never have clutches as they are always running when the engine is. This one is for bilge and deck wash.
That was a great video! This is the type of content that brought me to your channel way back. Now every time I learn something, I feel like I should at least buy a T-shirt... So, I think I’ll do that today. Any bet on how long it will take to get to Kingston, Ontario, Canada? Be well Stu and thanks for the extra content.
Thanks Paul, it did feel like a throwback to the old days. I appreciate you buying a shirt. I know they aren't super cheap but unfortunately teespring takes a fair cut. They are printed in and shipped from the US so shouldn't take too long.
Dangar Marine I think Canada might have finished building a wall along the border with our neighbours by now, but we can always hope I guess. I’ll make sure more of my donation makes it into your war chest next time. I just kinda wanted a cool shirt, so I spent a dumb amount on one. ;)
When you rebuild those, be careful with the "bronze wedge" that the impellor presses agaisnt. They are "handed" and if you put them in the wrong way round, they will eat up the impellor in no time.
had a pump like this on my 1960 volvo penta bb70. I would put mineral oil in the pump for dry storage to keep the rubber happy. had it 10 years no trouble.
Interesting that it helped. Keeping it 10 years is brave! I tend to replace them a bit more regularly because if they do fail it can be hard to get the bits of impeller out of the coolling system (more so with outboards though)
@@DangarMarine brave? just cheap. the only repair/engineering fix to the bb70 was the cracking exhaust manifold flanges fix. its a bit of a long winded fix. no pump troubles but it was all fresh water use in a carver 18 foot boat.
@Dangar Marine - Stu - To be fair, I eagerly watched and looked forward to your continuing boat rehab videos, since being introduced to you, on Bus Grease Monkey's channel - prior to this curse of the _replicators_ (SG-1 reference) and; not unlike everyone else now, thank you for still busying yourself and showing it, that we may collectively remain, somewhat sane - or at least enough distracted. Until or, unless you're better paid - may we all live through this well enough to continue to advise and nit-pick, your process. Living in this nation (USA) that's so-far, taken over the lead on #COVIDIOCY - while, you've just gone from fire to viri - interesting times, indeed. Though, I've likely met or slightly exceeded my daily allotment for beer consumption; spirit is still true, many thanks to you! And, blast for making me think about liking chickens - beyond egg production and main-stays of dinner plates (care for a few roosters?). My very best regards, cheers-
@@DangarMarine Stu, for me doing stuff around the house is getting a little tiring now - we've been at this for almost a couple of weeks, so a little dig isn't such a bad thing is it?...hope you didn't get your knickers in a knot! It was meant in jest. You guys at the creation end of YT probably don't see it as us viewers do - we know you from your vids and some of us long term viewers know you pretty well. I always look forward to your vids and enjoy them always. I actually thought the impeller worked with some voodoo hydraulic magic, but you made it quite clear what the mechanism is - no magic, just logic!
Just a side note, rubber doesn't handle mineral oil based lubricants well. Neoprene does, and is common in oil seals and O rings. Silicone based elastomers are becoming common in applications that require good flexibility over wide temperature ranges. Many of them do NOT play nice with silicone lubricants.
Stu Is that the breather I see painted on the bench ? Good description of how a rubber bladed pump works. Some people can't understand not to run the outboard with no water muffs.🤔
I hope you know that your the best TH-camr I watch I can't wait to see when you work on the mid cabin it will be exciting to see the dangermarine touch
Even if they are slightly wet they will stay lubricated. It really depends on how often the boat is used. Either way impellers are service items and need to be replaced every couple of years just to be on the safe side.
Dangar Marine yes it is. I want to install an alarm because one of the the downsides of my installation is that the wet flexibel hoses don’t like the higher temperatures in case the waterflow blocks of stops. I had a temperature sensor but i like the flow meter even better. Keep up the great work on your boat!
Speaking of fail safe alarms like your raw water flow meter, are you also going to have a alarm for an oil pressure switch. Like the alarm makes noise when you have less then 5 psi? Maybe your gauge will or something. Just curious. The noise makers can be annoying but that’s why people use them.
Have you got a model number on that pump? I've got one that looks identical but I managed to snap one of the clamp arms off of the mounting foot when taking it apart to clean. No numbers on my unit so finding it really hard to source a new mount, if its even possible.
@@DangarMarine Thats a different pump isn't it. The rebuild video was your raw water pump, not the electromagnet clutch deck wash pump that you show in this video, unless I've missed one.
Could add an extra layer of security by putting a check valve on the outlet. You could also put one on the inlet so even if you need to fiddle with the pipework you would still be mostly primed.
Hey Stu. Hope you are staying healthy and safe where you are. I just watched the latest " SV Seeker " video. Doug was making a cradle for his small aluminium dinghy to go on top of the main hatch. Not to be confused with his awesome ship tender. He mentioned he was planning to mount a 15 Horsepower Outboard engine to his Dinghy. I think after the travel ban you and a few mates may have to travel to the US to do an intervention on Doug. I told Doug in a comment..... You guys are putting a 15 HP Outboard on that Dinghy? To quote James Doohan and Tim Allen. " She needs MORE powerrrr !!!!! " Dangar Stu craps outboards with more horsepower.
I'll suggest to Doug he could go EcoGreen and just chain 4 slaves to the oars and put a little fat guy in the bow with a drum. " Boom...Boom....Boom...Boom RAMMING SPEED!!!! " He could give them the New Energy Drink from the NULAN company called..... " Row Ya Bastards! ".
I think with modern materials it is probably safe. I've just always been told to use silicon or water based lubricants with flexible materials like impellers. You can get stuff callled "rubber grease" too which we always kept in the shop.
Good video, got a question, I'm changing my water pump myself for 1st time,I was told oil will come out when I drop lower unit,have you changed one like mine? 2005 Mercury four stroke efi 60hp, just changed oil and not sure if it's true.
In today's Pump My Ride: Stu talks about the off's and on's to an alarming level of confusion.
Thanks Stu! And we are all pumped for your next video.
Thanks mate. I'm looking forward to getting the alternator installed and seeing if it helps bring those starting batteries back to life.
Pumped or primed ? Lol
I recall from a recent video that you have some issues with those angry pixie accumulators, hope you get it sorted out and spares you the expense for new ones.
My runabout’s jabsco doesn’t work anymore, so this vid is useful for my repair task. Thanks.
Simple little pumps. I quite enjoy these short educational videos.
Excellent explanation and video. I have seen a number of engineering teachers fail to properly explain this.
Thanks Jon, glad you liked it.
Love your videos; really enjoy the short conversations with your chickens at the end.
3 vids in a week, thanks Stu!
Thank you Stu!
My old Navy boat has a DD 4-53 and now, through your tutelage, I have changed the raw water impeller; rebuilt the blower assembly, changed the rocker cover and gasket, and am beginning to re wire.
Sounds like that boat has fallen into the right hands. :)
Thanks for the extra posts Stu. It not only helps relieve the boredom, but also teaches me useful stuff. Very easy to understand explanation too, as usual.
You're welcome Paul, I'll keep looking around for a few extra things to show.
As a distributor of Jabsco pumps, I can only recommend this! Well done!
I was just cruising around the site when I caught a glimpse of a very nice looking Blue boat and after looking at it for a few moments it hit that this impressive looking boat was your boat. She sure is a pretty boat, you have done some miracles with it.
Thanks mate. :)
Thanks Stu. I appreciate that you don't just show us you repairing things but explaining how they work.
Your video on Wet Exhaust Vs. Dry Exhaust was great. Sorry I could not find a pithy remark to include
in this comment incorporating any Nulon products.
Thanks mate. Next time. ;)
I saw a member D Squad crashing the party before their slot at the end. The vids are a good morale booster, thanks!
Thanks for a nice Technical demonstration. Might help less mechanical boat owners understand the importance of not dry starting/running a motor. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks for churning out the regular content mate, sure makes the necessary isolation bearable.
I Learn something new every time I watch your channel, Thanks Stu. 👍
looking forward to your first cruise.
Me too!
Thanks so much Stu,what a very clear,concise and intersting explanation. Stay safe and take care buddy
Thanks David, you stay safe too.
Good concise video Stu, there are two specifications of material for the impellers, one of which tolerates oil and diesel.
Thank you STU for uploading these videos faster then normal. Sitting around the house is driving me crazy. Makes us feel like were out there with you as you are doing these projects. Take care..
You're welcome mate. Vids like this don't take long to produce so I'll see what other simple things we can run through over the next couple of weeks.
Keep up the dedication mate, your content is great. Thanks for the no BS videos.
This video has navigated right into my heart.
Hey really really good explanation thank you. Nice short format would love more short explanation videos like this.
Thanks mate, I'll try to find a few more things to go through.
I just replaced the impellers in 3 jabsco pumps for a ballast system yesterday never new how they worked thanks
You're welcome. :)
Good job explaining how those pumps work.
Thanks Stu from the UK.
Helping us stay sane during lockdown. Keep it up mate. Cheers.
Stu, great explanation on the working of a flexible impeller pump. Outboard pumps, while also being flexible impeller pumps, act as both a displacement pump and a circulating or centrifugal pump.
At low to moderate speeds the pump works just as you described for the flexible impeller pump. At high speeds, the resistance of the water in the pump causes the blades to move inward and away from the inside surface of the pump. At that point, it becomes a circulating pump. The forward motion of the lower unit through the water provides the impetus needed to prime the 'centrifugal' pump.
Interesting to hear, and it does make sense that once you have a continuous flow of water that you just need to keep it moving like when siphoning a fluid. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge with us!
@@DangarMarine Stu, thanks. You do a great job explaining all of the workings of your engine, projects and boat. Given my advanced years, I have picked up some as I worked on outboards since I was 8.
I used to collect and restore antique outboards and a number of them had metal impellers and pumped fairly well as long as the pump was submerged and there was no thermostat.
Can't wait to see your boat under weigh. And if I had a Detroit that looked as good as yours, I would have a plexiglass hatch over it for all to see.
Really appreciate the more regularly videos during lockdown down.
(From NZ)
Great job of teaching how these pumps work. CHEERS
Thanks for posting additional vids at the moment Stu.
Thank you for your tutorial.
Absolutely brilliant explanations mate. Gee you're a joy to watch. Thank you
What he said. It just comes across so easily and conversational. Really satisfying.
Thanks mate. :)
Awesome as usual .
Stu, I am in lockdown like many others at home in nz( and very lucky to be safe/health etc ) . Thanks for posting this week, I really enjoy seeing the progress! Adam
Thanks Adam. :)
I so agree. Your content is like medicine to my lockdown boredom. Thank you Stu
Thanks Stu more videos for the self isolating at home
Wow I had no idea impellers like that were used in anything but outboards. Thank you for sharing that knowledge
Yes, very common in big boats too due to their ability to self prime.
wow stu! your videos are a lifeline here in lockdown. seems like they are more frequent too. thank you!
Thanks mate. Yes, I too have had much less I am able to do at the moment hence more videos.
Really good explanation. Learned something today 👍
For those that don't know.....Now you do.....Simple huuu...Thanks Dangar...!
Quality content Stu. Cant wait for the vids of the boat in action
Thanks Stu for keeping us all from feeling like we're ready for the Nuthouse. Be safe and take care or we'll never see a finished project.
Thanks mate, you take care too.
Great video Stu. Perfect timing as I'm in the middle of refurbishing mine. Thanks.
really interesting to go back to when you first bought the boat and how the plan has evolved..
Thanks Stu for going over the Jabsco basics, I just wanted to add that often your Jabsco is located low on the engine near the water line and should have a P trap arrangement like a home plumbing fixture in order to trap some water in it to prevent dry starts. Keep sailing, no submarines.
Ok, this is a tad complicated but hopefully Stu will read and understand. When cruising the Pacific Northwest sea grass or other flotsam fairly often plugs the raw water inlet. A friend I met decided waiting for the temperature alarm to indicate a problem wasn't ideal. So, like Stu, he installed a flow meter. But, being an electrical engineer, he took the flow sensor and added the signal to the rpm of the engine and sounded an alarm when flow vs rpm was too low. When this happened he would put a hand air pump on a T fitting from the hose out of the raw water inlet and pump air back through the inlet to clear the obstruction. He thought that was less damaging than my wire coat hanger solution and didn't require pulling off the hose. Anyway, love the videos. Let me know if you want to help my friend market his invention...🙂
Thanks for the video and explanation - Press On and Stay Safe!
im not actually a boat guy so never knew how they worked.. learnt something today :) 👍🍻
Best explanation of this I've seen.
hi very useful information.
No I'm glad you explained the pump I thought that it was a different type John
Thanks for posting Stu. Haven’t been out of the house for 6 days because of lockdown so it’s nice to see the videos. Going fishing Mon-Wed Channel Islands CA to get out of the house but I love the videos man. You do a great job.
You're welcome mate. Getting out fishing sounds like a fun way to stay isoated. :)
@@DangarMarine When I do that, I'm isolated from fish :(
Thanks Bud wondered how that worked.
Thanks Stu!
Enjoyed
Great video as always!
Great explanation
Thanks Stu.
Watching from Auckland
Awesome video! Thanks!
Thanks mate. :)
Hey Stu, thanks for the extra content this week, it's very much appreciated! Couple episodes back you had on a D-Squad shirt......when they gonna be in the shop mate???
In the shop now. The only way I can get them myself is to add them to the shop and the order one. :) There are a couple of new Renko shirts there too, but I'm waiting until I get paid next month to order one of each so I can check them. teespring.com/stores/dangar-marine
@@DangarMarine sweet!!! Got it on order....if you get them in long sleeve I'd get one of them as well....hahahaha love the D Squad.
Good stuff Stu. Stay safe.
Good health mate.
nicely done
Good tips mate, Thanks..really enjoying the extra effort you are posting this week..Trying times are made much better by your extra new uploads..Keep an eye on those chooks though mate they could be a much desired item soon for their free eggs and at a pinch they mould make nice soft toot paper alternatives. Stay safe mate
Thanks mate. Yes, given how empty the shopping centres are after all the pointless panic buying they could become sought after!
I learned a lot from this one.
Stu you may have discussed what size bilge pump to use, but do you take into consideration the volume of water that can be supplied by the largest seacock on the boat in determining bilge pump size? Also would it be beneficial to install a Tee at the raw water strainer with valve and a hose running down into the bilge so that the Jabsco raw water pump could be used as an extra or in additional bilge pump in an emergency?
Sizing can be important for sure. I've unfortunatley gone 1/2 smaller than what in the boat originally due to that being biggest through hull seacocks I could get. I have thought about adding the ability to use the cooling pump as a bilge pump. This is normally achieved by installing a seachest that combines all plumbing.
Great explanation!
Great explanation, thank you
You''re welcome. :)
Jabsco water impeller pumps are great. It will be fantastic when someone can invent a heat resistant impeller, like that ovenproof latex bakeware?
Stu......., Read on!
We have a 26 foot wooden clinker 2 cylinder Lister Petter 25Hp diesel with a Jabsco impeller for both engine, bilge or pressuring a seawater hose by manually diverting the water.
Stu, with ours, if it ran dry or with the sea cock closed, it overheats & can easily perish.
Had the boat for more than 45yrs now (dad bought it when I was 12) and mum basically kept it in the family after my dad died 1 yr into owning the "Lokalee". I was always on it from a young age, it was our 2nd boat. The first was a 22 foot Diesel 1 cylinder clinker build boat with no electrics.
We had old brass kerosene Port & Starboard lamps & a small kerosene riding light.
Been past Dangar Island many times Stu! (Never been ashore there).
Our boat is down in Middle Harbour, my brother works at Northbridge Marina. His friend is a friend of yours he calls "a bloody mad spearfisherman". Ring any bells?
I have loved your series on "Renko".
From your outboard videos I have fixed & sold 3 "council clean up" lawn mowers, two were 2 stroke, the other a 4 stroke.
I used to have both chickens & ducks, until the stupid council told me no more! (Meaning no longer). Some obscure ordinance. It is still a pain buying eggs, my girls eggs were so much richer and I love the taste of duck eggs!
It does make sense about the impellers given you can get silicon baking trays these days. Maybe they aren't strong enough from an abrasion point of view. Sounds like a nice couple of boats. Not sure who the "bloody mad spearfisherman" is though!
Aawwww Stu did you put warm water in the sink to save your wee hands? I notice you turned off the Hot And Cold taps @ 6.34. Legend! Loved the explanation of the Jabsco pump.
Hi Stu, your Jabsco pump setup looks OK. Another setup; plumb the pump at the bottom of an "S" bend that traps a volume of water to keep the impellor wet at all times. This setup is good for boats that are regularly taken out of the water. Also wipe the impeller all over with silicon rubber grease "Molykote valve & "O"ring grease " this is a rubber conditioner and will extend the life of the impellor by a factor of many. I hope this helps. Cheers
Good tip! As you say, just keeping a small amount of water to lubricate the pump on startup makes a lot of sense, particularly for boats that live out of the water.
Cool Mate!
Those neoprene impellers seem to wear fairly quickly or simply fly to pieces and jam up the works. I now see how much stress and load they are under. Thank you for the explanation Stu, good video mate. I hope you and yours are doing well during this pandemic.
That pump you have is set up for a sea water deck wash hose reason for the clutch on it. Jabsco pumps can handle dirty water better than a centrifugal pump.
This! Looks like that was the deck wash pump not the raw water cooling pump. Also if the pump only activates when it gets power wouldn’t that trip the alarm whenever it wasn’t running? I would think a clutch pump would be dangerous on a cooling pump and there’s no downside to it always running.
Yes, was just using this one for the demo to show the impellers. Cooling pumps never have clutches as they are always running when the engine is. This one is for bilge and deck wash.
That was a great video! This is the type of content that brought me to your channel way back. Now every time I learn something, I feel like I should at least buy a T-shirt... So, I think I’ll do that today. Any bet on how long it will take to get to Kingston, Ontario, Canada? Be well Stu and thanks for the extra content.
Thanks Paul, it did feel like a throwback to the old days. I appreciate you buying a shirt. I know they aren't super cheap but unfortunately teespring takes a fair cut. They are printed in and shipped from the US so shouldn't take too long.
Dangar Marine I think Canada might have finished building a wall along the border with our neighbours by now, but we can always hope I guess.
I’ll make sure more of my donation makes it into your war chest next time. I just kinda wanted a cool shirt, so I spent a dumb amount on one. ;)
Thanks Stu. Stay safe and see you next week... ;-}
When you rebuild those, be careful with the "bronze wedge" that the impellor presses agaisnt. They are "handed" and if you put them in the wrong way round, they will eat up the impellor in no time.
Thank you
Hi there Stu you should not use galvanized pipe fittings for seawater it will work like zinc anode all the best from Denmark
had a pump like this on my 1960 volvo penta bb70. I would put mineral oil in the pump for dry storage to keep the rubber happy. had it 10 years no trouble.
Interesting that it helped. Keeping it 10 years is brave! I tend to replace them a bit more regularly because if they do fail it can be hard to get the bits of impeller out of the coolling system (more so with outboards though)
@@DangarMarine brave? just cheap. the only repair/engineering fix to the bb70 was the cracking exhaust manifold flanges fix. its a bit of a long winded fix. no pump troubles but it was all fresh water use in a carver 18 foot boat.
REALLY good explaination. I wonder if plastics are far enough along so you could replace that steal cover with a plastic one. Video idea, maybe?
I have thought about it.
@Dangar Marine - Stu - To be fair, I eagerly watched and looked forward to your continuing boat rehab videos, since being introduced to you, on Bus Grease Monkey's channel - prior to this curse of the _replicators_ (SG-1 reference) and; not unlike everyone else now, thank you for still busying yourself and showing it, that we may collectively remain, somewhat sane - or at least enough distracted.
Until or, unless you're better paid - may we all live through this well enough to continue to advise and nit-pick, your process.
Living in this nation (USA) that's so-far, taken over the lead on #COVIDIOCY - while, you've just gone from fire to viri - interesting times, indeed.
Though, I've likely met or slightly exceeded my daily allotment for beer consumption; spirit is still true, many thanks to you!
And, blast for making me think about liking chickens - beyond egg production and main-stays of dinner plates (care for a few roosters?). My very best regards, cheers-
Thanks mate, stay safe! :)
Stu, this is all very good and all, but you have a lot of work to do.
Is that right.
@@DangarMarine Stu, for me doing stuff around the house is getting a little tiring now - we've been at this for almost a couple of weeks, so a little dig isn't such a bad thing is it?...hope you didn't get your knickers in a knot! It was meant in jest. You guys at the creation end of YT probably don't see it as us viewers do - we know you from your vids and some of us long term viewers know you pretty well. I always look forward to your vids and enjoy them always. I actually thought the impeller worked with some voodoo hydraulic magic, but you made it quite clear what the mechanism is - no magic, just logic!
Off-On ... On-Off ... Off-On oh well, it does one or the other or maybe both. Love it.
Just a side note, rubber doesn't handle mineral oil based lubricants well. Neoprene does, and is common in oil seals and O rings. Silicone based elastomers are becoming common in applications that require good flexibility over wide temperature ranges. Many of them do NOT play nice with silicone lubricants.
Interesting, thanks for sharing!
Stu
Is that the breather I see painted on the bench ? Good description of how a rubber bladed pump works. Some people can't understand not to run the outboard with no water muffs.🤔
It is, will put it on during the week. :)
Thx Stu
Welcome. :)
...GOOD ONE, KEEP SAFE...
I hope you know that your the best TH-camr I watch I can't wait to see when you work on the mid cabin it will be exciting to see the dangermarine touch
not on todays subject but did you ever think of tying the correct size bungs to the raw water inlets for emergency access
Great explanation! I have a wet exhaust, so in that case I assume you have to except some wear ?
Even if they are slightly wet they will stay lubricated. It really depends on how often the boat is used. Either way impellers are service items and need to be replaced every couple of years just to be on the safe side.
Dangar Marine yes it is. I want to install an alarm because one of the the downsides of my installation is that the wet flexibel hoses don’t like the higher temperatures in case the waterflow blocks of stops. I had a temperature sensor but i like the flow meter even better. Keep up the great work on your boat!
Good stuff Stu. If you run out of ideas for vids soon, even just chucking a line in would be good. cheers.
I hear there have been a few Mulloway in the river at the moment so I might just do that!
Speaking of fail safe alarms like your raw water flow meter, are you also going to have a alarm for an oil pressure switch. Like the alarm makes noise when you have less then 5 psi? Maybe your gauge will or something. Just curious.
The noise makers can be annoying but that’s why people use them.
Have you got a model number on that pump? I've got one that looks identical but I managed to snap one of the clamp arms off of the mounting foot when taking it apart to clean. No numbers on my unit so finding it really hard to source a new mount, if its even possible.
The numbers are in the rebuild video on this pump.
@@DangarMarine Thats a different pump isn't it. The rebuild video was your raw water pump, not the electromagnet clutch deck wash pump that you show in this video, unless I've missed one.
Wondering if u could use a Plexiglas cover for the pump so that u would be able to check for ware
That would be pretty cool!
Could add an extra layer of security by putting a check valve on the outlet. You could also put one on the inlet so even if you need to fiddle with the pipework you would still be mostly primed.
The trouble with check valves is that they are known to fail, and sometimes in the closed position.
Alarm goes on, alarm goes off. This sounds like something from a Monty Python skit.
Bed goes up, bed goes down.
Where did the KY jello go? Must be a different pump.
Yes, that is the cooling pump that is already installed in the boat.
Hey Stu. Hope you are staying healthy and safe where you are.
I just watched the latest " SV Seeker " video. Doug was making a cradle
for his small aluminium dinghy to go on top of the main hatch.
Not to be confused with his awesome ship tender. He mentioned he was planning
to mount a 15 Horsepower Outboard engine to his Dinghy.
I think after the travel ban you and a few mates may have to travel to the US to do an intervention
on Doug. I told Doug in a comment.....
You guys are putting a 15 HP Outboard on that Dinghy?
To quote James Doohan and Tim Allen.
" She needs MORE powerrrr !!!!! "
Dangar Stu craps outboards with more horsepower.
LOL. I’m currently running a 6HP so I’m not sure he’ll listen to me. :)
I'll suggest to Doug he could go EcoGreen and just chain 4 slaves to the oars and put a little fat guy in the bow with a drum.
" Boom...Boom....Boom...Boom RAMMING SPEED!!!! " He could give them the New Energy Drink from the NULAN company called..... " Row Ya Bastards! ".
I always used grease to initially start pump. Should I be using silicon? . Seems grease had no adverse effect. Thanks....
I think with modern materials it is probably safe. I've just always been told to use silicon or water based lubricants with flexible materials like impellers. You can get stuff callled "rubber grease" too which we always kept in the shop.
Good video, got a question, I'm changing my water pump myself for 1st time,I was told oil will come out when I drop lower unit,have you changed one like mine? 2005 Mercury four stroke efi 60hp, just changed oil and not sure if it's true.