Liquid metal is only for those, who know, what they´re doing - aka make sure, it will stay on the core and not leak elsewhere. That being said, i wouldn´t use it on a GPU at all. Instead, i would go with Arctic MX-6 or Honeywell PTM7950.
Did like 50 gpus, 30 laptops since around 2018 and no one ever contacted me they have issue and I urge them to do so, so I can see if it's my fault. I guess it's inexperienced people going with the syringe right over the die pressing it and sometimes it pops and sprays all over the place, I would bet that's how most of these issues happen, cos even when you use a lot more than you need, and you insulate the contacts around the die with nail polish etc., it doesn't get anywhere near the places where some people end up having liquid metal damage.
@@NotEvenDeathCanSaveU My GTX Titan had on it by the previous owner, after i removed the cooler (fcblock) i found that the LM eats the nickel out. I had to polish down the surface of the cooler. Guess what? I have better temps with normal paste after that.
@@devilzuser0050 It damages the surfaces yes but the performance of it shouldn't be affected. I still have 1080Ti where I applied liquid metal to it in mid 2018 and the bench temps are still the same I recorded into notepad, maybe a degree higher but that's within a margin of error. Maybe not all nickel plating is done in the same way, some people report performance drop of liquid metal in 3-4 years, some say they see no difference after such periods of time.
Nothing. He do basic fixing what should only take 1hour or it is no fix. Time is money. He not reball core or memories, not deep dive to problem and not using softwares to look errors or benchmark. Not high quality GPU repair.
yeah i did the same thing a long time ago, alex's arrogance got on my nerves, tony is so laid back and his persistent work ethic and the way he actually cares about fixing the customers cards is refreshing although there is no way i would ever have the patience to do what he does, that is if i could even figure it all out...
Love the music during the cleaning/reballing part. Gives me Mass Effect vibes and matches the zoomed electronic components aesthetics so well! Of course, your editing of it all is the binding element in the video recipe. Another great repair and video combo!
@@northwestrepair Yeah I'd agree. I place the Hakko Omnivice next to it rest my hand on and move balls with the tweezer The vice is about the same level as the preheater.
Honestly, the way you do jokes/memes in your videos is so good, lmao. I'm already entertained by the repair, but getting a laugh here and there is a nice bonus.
Ok idk why i keep putting it off.. I have an EVGA 3080 i need repaired and you are one of the best repairmen there is and clearly the best option I am aware of. I also have a Dell 3080 to send with it as a donor board that is beyond repair (most likely) since one of the VRMs decided to go supernova and melt through the pcb to the other side and scorch the backplate as well.
At the end, the flux on the memory chip did what da, what da, what da? ... deflux; then reflow???? Whaaaat? I like the higher speed re-ball, but that last bit of narrative just flew right by me.
When he reballs memory or core, he puts just the right amount of flux for the solder to melt and with almost no residue left, but when you reflow (just heating the chip until the solder melts again) you need to flood the area under the chip with flux, leaving behind a mess hence why it needs ultrasound cleaning afterwards. It seems flux can damage the board in the long run if not cleaned right away.
@@northwestrepair Creative Commons Attribution. Give credit, and it's yours to use. (At least if I remember his licensing right! I bought his whole discography off an online service to support him... it's the best techno I've heard.)
People don't understand that LM requires precautionary measures when using it on their daily systems. OEMs would use LMs that are solid in room temperature, and use gaskets to prevent leaks. Extreme overclockers don't care, because they would clean and reapply frequently.
i know nothing of repairs or what ever you do. but just because youre keeping our amazing products off the landfill ive subscribed and try to watch every video you make.
Hi Tony, thank you for taking us to a truly happy place. I love being able to spend time so close to those glorious GPU components. I've used Liquid Metal before on laptops and GPUs and went back and replaced it on them all. I saw how some of it had shifted from the CPU. It also caused some corrosion on the copper GPU cooling plate. Except for the card I sold on eBay, I swiftly cleaned it all off and replaced it with thermal grizzly which I love. So there is a poor Nvidia 980 out there with Liquid Metal still. I appreciate how no problem is too much for you and how you deeply desire to initiate further complications solely for our entertainment. Keep it up! Everyone should send you their broken GPUs for repair. You fixed one of mine and I can't thank you enough! Russ💽
Man you are boss!!!!! I love your content. Always so interesting. I learned about reball/reflow from old PS3 issues it’s cool to see it being done on a GPU.
Thanks for the video. Need to do long term testing on a R9 280X it is on a z170 asus prime i7 6700 cpu 32 gigs of ram. This is a frankie build it sits around till one of three pcs has a problem and needs fixing, 2 pcs are friends and one is mine. frankie is a stand in. When last used it had lots of crashes replace old fx 8350 with the i7, now I want to test the R9 280X. Both the fx 8350 and the R9 may have been damage in a drop of the case. The mother board for the fx has a pci x slot was damaged, new board is working great been testing with igpu to make sure it is stable. Now will be putting the R9 280X to see if it is working and was not the cause of the crashes. What testing software should I use need it to run for a day or so and not crash just to make sure gpu is working.
Another great repair, Tony, i love the way how you show us what you`re doing to fix such an abused graphics card. Just hit the magic button again and subbed. A little question from me: i have the Gigabyte RTX 2080 Ti Aorus Xtreme. The card runs fine since i got help undervolting it. An Windows 11 or the NVidia driver update killed my profile for MSI Afterburner so the card ran at its normal specs, getting very hot and loud as the fans simulated a starting jet plane. The hotspot was at 105 degree Celsius, so the memory was at around 90. But i don`t get any readings from the memory temperature, it looks like the sensor for it is gone. Can this be, a "grilled" temp sensor? The card runs good again with undervolting, but i`m in sorrow that more parts could get damaged. Before this software malfunction and the overheating card, i got temp readings from the vram.
In other videos, he has a thermocouple that he places in a dab of flux right against the GPU, don't know for sure, but if I had to guess the temp readings would refer to his thermocouple
So where did the liquid metal go? You showed it under the GPU then nothing about it. Did it evaporate when you heated he core to remove it or something else?
Hi Tony. Just to be clear, the preheat temp of 200 C is measured at the top of the PCB or just the setting of the preheater ? Same for the 250 reflow temp. Is it measured at the top of PCB or is this the setting for the heatgun temp ? I am asking as I find these very low for lead free solder to properly melt. I would be surprised to have a proper solder melt if setting my heatgun at 250 for a large GPU chip.
Don't you get issues with chips or PCBs popcorning on you while you are working on them? It happens quite a lot here, even before the solder melts, the GPU is already dead with multiple bumps in the PCB. Btw, I live and work in a 70+% humidity location and I usually bake stuff at 90C for a while before doing any bga rework
I'm just interested, from the technical side, how do components that don't like heat and whose operation is very critical if they work above 100 degrees, endure temperatures of over 250 or even 300 degrees? Ok, I understand that while they are working, they have rapid cooling via the cooler (if your graphics are at 90 degrees and stop working, in a few seconds it will be at 50) and that rapid cooling actually has the "twisting" of components as a problem (cracking may occur). A chip type cannot have the same temperature everywhere, and if it was 90 degrees, the part that is close to the cooler dropped quickly to 50, and the part further away is still at 85+, and due to various expansion of the material, damage can occur. While heating during soldering, the average cooling takes place slowly (naturally) and the temperature difference over the entire component is much smaller. Right?
I keep on wondering... what are the SONGs you feature in this video (and other videos)? ^_^ Is there anywhere I can get them? LOVE YOUR REPAIRS MAN!!! (And what you stand for!)
Over 3k views and only 968 likes. Come on people it's not that hard to hit the like button is it. If you are watching this just hit the like button. Support this man for the great things that he does for us.
I have a threadripper covered in liquid metal hovering above my GFX card, maybe that is why after 3 years or so my old GFX card ( RX 5700 XT ) suddenly died. But i am more inclined to think it was just the red devil card that gave up on its own. BTW that threadripper been with that "paste" since day #1, and still give me OK temperatures.
After i tested cheapo ptm7950 pad there is no more "good quality" thermal pastes for me. I had a noctua nh-2 and it got it's ass kicked by 10C on the hotspot. Same for laptop application. Only place where good paste and pad come close to each other is desktop cpu where the contact is as even as it gets.
My 4080 suprim games around 50° with no liquid metal. I'd suggest to by the non founder edition like the suprim or strix then that removes the problem of heat
@@TheBackyardChemistwell mabye when I first opened it had very good application of thermal paste maybe to much but I cleaned it out put LM on the die and on the cooler and a little dot in the middle just in case if the die was concave put everything back on did the retention bracket first tighted it much more than oem did and boom temp don’t go over 80c at 465 watts 1600rpm it a taichi asrock
I'm not really following what you did exactly, but would it be cheaper/make more sense to pay you to fix my 3090 FE if it breaks or just save up for a future 6090, asking out of spite mainly bc a friend brags about their 4080 FE specs to me all the time. Kthxbye!
man i enjoy all your repairs i finally got the same pre heater you have there but my question is can a 1000w transformer be enough for it and my heatgun its a cheap 858D. and if you can what is that background music you have there is it a remix of stranger things intro?
keep on using liquid metal and keep Tony busy
Liquid metal is only for those, who know, what they´re doing - aka make sure, it will stay on the core and not leak elsewhere.
That being said, i wouldn´t use it on a GPU at all. Instead, i would go with Arctic MX-6 or Honeywell PTM7950.
Did like 50 gpus, 30 laptops since around 2018 and no one ever contacted me they have issue and I urge them to do so, so I can see if it's my fault. I guess it's inexperienced people going with the syringe right over the die pressing it and sometimes it pops and sprays all over the place, I would bet that's how most of these issues happen, cos even when you use a lot more than you need, and you insulate the contacts around the die with nail polish etc., it doesn't get anywhere near the places where some people end up having liquid metal damage.
@@NotEvenDeathCanSaveU My GTX Titan had on it by the previous owner, after i removed the cooler (fcblock) i found that the LM eats the nickel out. I had to polish down the surface of the cooler. Guess what? I have better temps with normal paste after that.
@@devilzuser0050 It damages the surfaces yes but the performance of it shouldn't be affected. I still have 1080Ti where I applied liquid metal to it in mid 2018 and the bench temps are still the same I recorded into notepad, maybe a degree higher but that's within a margin of error. Maybe not all nickel plating is done in the same way, some people report performance drop of liquid metal in 3-4 years, some say they see no difference after such periods of time.
@@Morpheus-pt3wq I've only used it for CPU delids with no issues so far.
I really like added tips/captions during that speed-up section
It doesn’t matter how many times I watch you reball the core it’s still amazing
I unsubscribed Northridgefix and watch this guy, very humble & doesnt sound rude!
What happened to Northridgefix?
Nothing. He do basic fixing what should only take 1hour or it is no fix. Time is money.
He not reball core or memories, not deep dive to problem and not using softwares to look errors or benchmark.
Not high quality GPU repair.
He only replaces burntj external power pin at this point 😂
yeah i did the same thing a long time ago, alex's arrogance got on my nerves, tony is so laid back and his persistent work ethic and the way he actually cares about fixing the customers cards is refreshing although there is no way i would ever have the patience to do what he does, that is if i could even figure it all out...
pretty much everything that gets repaired by Tony would be a NO FIX and waste of your money for Northridge.
It's amazing what you can fix. That takes years of practice to get to your level and many never get there.
Love the music during the cleaning/reballing part. Gives me Mass Effect vibes and matches the zoomed electronic components aesthetics so well! Of course, your editing of it all is the binding element in the video recipe. Another great repair and video combo!
The stranger things music
@@salmon85 yea that's all I think of when he plays it.
@@salmon85 It reminded me of the Daft Punk music from Tron Legacy 😃
I think of pussy@@Apollo-Computers
There mechanic preheater is a game changer. So much easier to get them balls soldered without being blown away with hot air.
I would argue.
Its hard to keep the chip stationary while fixing screwups with balls.
@@northwestrepair Yeah I'd agree. I place the Hakko Omnivice next to it rest my hand on and move balls with the tweezer The vice is about the same level as the preheater.
Honestly, the way you do jokes/memes in your videos is so good, lmao. I'm already entertained by the repair, but getting a laugh here and there is a nice bonus.
Tony is simply just the mf man
Ok idk why i keep putting it off.. I have an EVGA 3080 i need repaired and you are one of the best repairmen there is and clearly the best option I am aware of.
I also have a Dell 3080 to send with it as a donor board that is beyond repair (most likely) since one of the VRMs decided to go supernova and melt through the pcb to the other side and scorch the backplate as well.
How? I would love to see photos i thought the board wouldnt get so hot to destroy it..
Do it before the government makes it illegal or something.
@@xitywampas lmfao!
Scorched the backplate huh? Nice, impressive even! Please send to Tony I would like to see this.
Dell and their new Eco-friendly Cardboard PCB™
Amazing how satisfying / calming watching re-balling core and memory is .... Amazing skill
At the end, the flux on the memory chip did what da, what da, what da? ... deflux; then reflow???? Whaaaat? I like the higher speed re-ball, but that last bit of narrative just flew right by me.
same here, he's the electrowiz
Magic
😂
When he reballs memory or core, he puts just the right amount of flux for the solder to melt and with almost no residue left, but when you reflow (just heating the chip until the solder melts again) you need to flood the area under the chip with flux, leaving behind a mess hence why it needs ultrasound cleaning afterwards. It seems flux can damage the board in the long run if not cleaned right away.
I'm still lost and feel that even with two or three more explanations, I still wouldn't get it 😅
I'm on a spree watching all of your videos as I just discovered you.
This one is so relaxing and I can't explain why.
The main thing i have learned is that you make it look easy and the music compliments the video perfectly.
I've seen Stranger Things, but I'm still going to watch this.
Intro music was "Proxima" by Lukhash off his album "Better Than Reality", nice choice! (And CC licensed).
Edit: Changed CCA to CC.
whats a CCA ?
@@northwestrepair Creative Commons Attribution. Give credit, and it's yours to use. (At least if I remember his licensing right! I bought his whole discography off an online service to support him... it's the best techno I've heard.)
@@northwestrepair Creative Commons attribution. (Should have said CC)
something reassuring about watching an expert working
Lawrence Fishburn was awesome in this flick! Red pill and how deep WHAT?!?! LOLOL
I feel like you've put a lot of editing work into this video, it was very great
3:00 these movie like scenes were so clean too!
As a general phrase.. Metal is always kept at its best when its solid :) Great repair work Tony .. hard work done well.. fixing it..
Most essential component of every repair is applying flux in a happy face pattern
love the reballing process montage
Thanks for sharing your temps Tony!
People don't understand that LM requires precautionary measures when using it on their daily systems. OEMs would use LMs that are solid in room temperature, and use gaskets to prevent leaks. Extreme overclockers don't care, because they would clean and reapply frequently.
Great edit!
Thanks!
its why I use silicon teflon gel to coat the substrate and caps around the die chip itself
i know nothing of repairs or what ever you do. but just because youre keeping our amazing products off the landfill ive subscribed and try to watch every video you make.
I appreciate this dude!! What a GOAT!! And he knows about the smiley flux. Tops man!! Ty!!
The production quality is crazy in this vid🔥
Hi Tony, thank you for taking us to a truly happy place. I love being able to spend time so close to those glorious GPU components. I've used Liquid Metal before on laptops and GPUs and went back and replaced it on them all. I saw how some of it had shifted from the CPU. It also caused some corrosion on the copper GPU cooling plate. Except for the card I sold on eBay, I swiftly cleaned it all off and replaced it with thermal grizzly which I love. So there is a poor Nvidia 980 out there with Liquid Metal still. I appreciate how no problem is too much for you and how you deeply desire to initiate further complications solely for our entertainment. Keep it up! Everyone should send you their broken GPUs for repair. You fixed one of mine and I can't thank you enough! Russ💽
another incredible repair!
Ive used Liquid metal for years, never had an issue. You just need to be real careful. Temps are the best ive ever had with lots of other pastes.
Beautiful work keep it up!!!
Seriously considering moving into this field you are really an inspiration man!
i skipped the liquid metal, and thermal paste and went right to ptm7950, it works greats.
Videos never get old, Keep up the good work.
I'm always wondering which chemicals you're using for cleaning solution or coating ? Could you add them as notes too ?
amazing the part with the ultrasonic bath to change the flux with the reflow XD
These are my jam, thank you
Make it 20min long. That is the best so we can enjoy the process a bit more
Man you are boss!!!!! I love your content. Always so interesting. I learned about reball/reflow from old PS3 issues it’s cool to see it being done on a GPU.
Very satisfying to watch
This is what I call a true psychedelic GPU repair video.
Thanks for the video.
Need to do long term testing on a R9 280X it is on a z170 asus prime i7 6700 cpu 32 gigs of ram.
This is a frankie build it sits around till one of three pcs has a problem and needs fixing, 2 pcs are friends and one is mine. frankie is a stand in. When last used it had lots of crashes replace old fx 8350 with the i7, now I want to test the R9 280X. Both the fx 8350 and the R9 may have been damage in a drop of the case. The mother board for the fx has a pci x slot was damaged, new board is working great been testing with igpu to make sure it is stable. Now will be putting the R9 280X to see if it is working and was not the cause of the crashes.
What testing software should I use need it to run for a day or so and not crash just to make sure gpu is working.
Better then factory fix🤠🧔♂😎👍,,,,,I like how you save Nothridge no fix GPUs
Tony, your beard got me thinking. Are you, batman ?
Nice concise vid, just wondering what the cost is for this repair. I’ve been using Liquid Metal for years with no mishaps but just curious
The answer is in my previous video
Good way to make me watch that video twice😂 I don’t remember a monetary value being mentioned as I recall
He said that what he charges depends on the value of the card.@@thelawnmoerman
Really dig how easy you make this look so easy..... how long did you have into it real time?
I've always wondered how many hours are spending, in average, to fix a card. Amazing work anyway, I would really love to have your skills.
Great video again.
which thermal pad do you use for repair card? Odyssey? Artic?
Than you
Can you make a vid talking about solvents? Gumout, electronics cleaner ect.
Dude I smashed the like button so hard I think I broke my video card...thanks for sharing
Another great repair, Tony, i love the way how you show us what you`re doing to fix such an abused graphics card. Just hit the magic button again and subbed.
A little question from me: i have the Gigabyte RTX 2080 Ti Aorus Xtreme. The card runs fine since i got help undervolting it. An Windows 11 or the NVidia driver update killed my profile for MSI Afterburner so the card ran at its normal specs, getting very hot and loud as the fans simulated a starting jet plane. The hotspot was at 105 degree Celsius, so the memory was at around 90. But i don`t get any readings from the memory temperature, it looks like the sensor for it is gone. Can this be, a "grilled" temp sensor? The card runs good again with undervolting, but i`m in sorrow that more parts could get damaged. Before this software malfunction and the overheating card, i got temp readings from the vram.
Great video , thanks for posting
I've always wondered if reballing chips makes them lose any lifespan because of the heat? You seem to be able to cook them with no problems.
God tier repair skill 😂🙇♂️
Love the tips. But please clarify where 200 and 250 are measured. Thanks.
In other videos, he has a thermocouple that he places in a dab of flux right against the GPU, don't know for sure, but if I had to guess the temp readings would refer to his thermocouple
Your are amazing dude wish you best of luck.
some youtubers that use liquid metal use nail polish to protect the surroudings, this is looks pretty clean if the owner did that...
So where did the liquid metal go? You showed it under the GPU then nothing about it. Did it evaporate when you heated he core to remove it or something else?
Which thermal paste do you recommend ?
Great video, like the captions and especially the red or green pill 👌
راضیم ازت👍
You are the best dude nice work :3
Awesome synth music...Morgan Freeman should have done the repair to go along with the bgm
Definitely makes it look easy though it's not, love the vids so informative 👍👍
Only liquid metal Ive used was on my delidded 6700k between the die and heatsink. On top I always use Noctua paste for both CPU and GPU.
What brand/ type do you use in ultrasonic cleaner?
Branson EC Electronics Cleaner Solution
No idea what the new toy is but it looked pretty cool
What is that cable that you put under the core during reball? A thermometer?
Thanks for this well done and informative video
Hi Tony. Just to be clear, the preheat temp of 200 C is measured at the top of the PCB or just the setting of the preheater ? Same for the 250 reflow temp. Is it measured at the top of PCB or is this the setting for the heatgun temp ? I am asking as I find these very low for lead free solder to properly melt. I would be surprised to have a proper solder melt if setting my heatgun at 250 for a large GPU chip.
200c is the temp of thermocouple that toped on top PCB close to GPU core
I hope you have a wonderful weekend.
hey mans i like your bids they're really insightful
😂 those memes lmao
what is that high temp wire for? are you applying heat with it?
Don't you get issues with chips or PCBs popcorning on you while you are working on them? It happens quite a lot here, even before the solder melts, the GPU is already dead with multiple bumps in the PCB. Btw, I live and work in a 70+% humidity location and I usually bake stuff at 90C for a while before doing any bga rework
great content as usual.
the like button worked on me
How long did it really take you to do this for comparison purposes
old PewDiePie is awesome.
What is the name of the music track you use during the core removal?
5:55 what is the purpose of that wire-ish looking thing on the preheater that you always stick near the core of the GPU?
Where did you learn this? Any links to good resources?
I'm just interested, from the technical side, how do components that don't like heat and whose operation is very critical if they work above 100 degrees, endure temperatures of over 250 or even 300 degrees?
Ok, I understand that while they are working, they have rapid cooling via the cooler (if your graphics are at 90 degrees and stop working, in a few seconds it will be at 50) and that rapid cooling actually has the "twisting" of components as a problem (cracking may occur). A chip type cannot have the same temperature everywhere, and if it was 90 degrees, the part that is close to the cooler dropped quickly to 50, and the part further away is still at 85+, and due to various expansion of the material, damage can occur. While heating during soldering, the average cooling takes place slowly (naturally) and the temperature difference over the entire component is much smaller. Right?
Great video
I keep on wondering... what are the SONGs you feature in this video (and other videos)? ^_^ Is there anywhere I can get them?
LOVE YOUR REPAIRS MAN!!! (And what you stand for!)
Could you put it in something like a centrifuge and get it out by spinning it around? I don't know why i have these thoughts.
0:23 you are in to some GILF territory there :)
Over 3k views and only 968 likes. Come on people it's not that hard to hit the like button is it. If you are watching this just hit the like button. Support this man for the great things that he does for us.
Only 10% of all subscribers actually watch these videos.
I have a threadripper covered in liquid metal hovering above my GFX card, maybe that is why after 3 years or so my old GFX card ( RX 5700 XT ) suddenly died.
But i am more inclined to think it was just the red devil card that gave up on its own.
BTW that threadripper been with that "paste" since day #1, and still give me OK temperatures.
After i tested cheapo ptm7950 pad there is no more "good quality" thermal pastes for me. I had a noctua nh-2 and it got it's ass kicked by 10C on the hotspot. Same for laptop application. Only place where good paste and pad come close to each other is desktop cpu where the contact is as even as it gets.
My 4080 suprim games around 50° with no liquid metal. I'd suggest to by the non founder edition like the suprim or strix then that removes the problem of heat
Nice, there are also thermal pads that work better than any thermal paste. Liquid metal is just a mess, look at the PS5.
I had to do LM on my7900xtx due to 115 hotspot but I made sure to use it very sparingly
Maybe you had a defective cooler that is sensitive to orientation?
@@TheBackyardChemistwell mabye when I first opened it had very good application of thermal paste maybe to much but I cleaned it out put LM on the die and on the cooler and a little dot in the middle just in case if the die was concave put everything back on did the retention bracket first tighted it much more than oem did and boom temp don’t go over 80c at 465 watts 1600rpm it a taichi asrock
I'm not really following what you did exactly, but would it be cheaper/make more sense to pay you to fix my 3090 FE if it breaks or just save up for a future 6090, asking out of spite mainly bc a friend brags about their 4080 FE specs to me all the time. Kthxbye!
What is the utility you did use to test GPU ram? Thanks.
magical
man i enjoy all your repairs i finally got the same pre heater you have there but my question is can a 1000w transformer be enough for it and my heatgun its a cheap 858D. and if you can what is that background music you have there is it a remix of stranger things intro?
its not a remix from what i understand
Very Good!
I have questions about the amd pill ! 😺
Just curious, is there any GPU manufacturer that *doesn't* suck? Which brand do you get the fewest repairs on?
Intel 😂