NOOB uses Liquid Metal on an RTX 3080...
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
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I decide to try Liquid Metal on an Nvidia RTX 3080, even though I am a noob that always breaks stuff.
Needless to say, it was a real struggle.
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#noob #liquidmetal #Govee #GoveeXmas - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Any computer component can have liquid metal if you put enough current through it.
lmao
XD
*Microwave noise intensifies*
Fax
Extreme overclockers be like
Anna: Where is my clear nail polish?
Dawid: It's complicated...
LMAO
At least it was only the clear nail polish...
he should've went all beauty channel and placed his hand behind the product for the camera, missed meme opportunity
It bothers me that he sealed old thermal paste under nail polish.
I took my sister's red nail polish hopefully it words the same as the clear one
They be talking about RTX 30's
Me with a GT 10thitty: Laughs in poor
me with G2020 and intel HD : Laughs in pooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooor
EDIT : now im with the G3250 so Great upgrade
@@ilyes4752 Yea I have a second pc with a G2030
THIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY
Me: *laughs in quadro k600
giveup smoking, in 1 year you will have the 3090
most 3080's dont have any back plating thermal pads so the VRM's can get spicy... so adding them yourself will help tremendously.
I actually have that exact card and yeah, VRM's on it can reach over 100C while under load even if the rest of the components stay near 70-80. thermal pads are an easy add that can help a ton
where though
Gigabyte fixed this on the 3080 12gb gaming oc. Thermal pads are on both sides.
OH WOW , YOU MADLAD
Of all the gpus u had to choose the 3080
I'm a dangerous man. 😅
@@DawidDoesTechStuff thats quite clear lol
@@DawidDoesTechStuff :(
poor 3080
so happpy to see dawid getting sponsors he deserves it
Thank you! That's very kind of you.
Love how Dawid can mess around with a 3080 testing how much or how little liquid metal he can put on a gpu and I'm clutching my 1050ti worried that it'll breakdown from old age...
your 1050ti will survive till 2030 atleast, dont worry computers last a long time
@@CheekiBreeki-mq2my Yeah, surprisingly, unless something catastrophic happens to a PC, they tend to last indefinitely, assuming they're treated well and dusted. People usually replace devices prematurely because they want a performance boost out of new technology, not because their device suddenly broke. PCs absolutely can wear out, but it's not a guarantee, and I've noticed that the vast majority of my electronics and computers are probably going to outlast me if I keep using them forever.
@@VectorGaming4080 well my gt740 is getting very old and the silicone is degrading so much i have to downclock it but itll work for another 10 years so your kinda right
PC components surivive so extremly long. They onlyest thing i managed to kill was a Xeon CPU because I overclocked it over the limits. :s But it's been running awesome speeds tho. But even with that extreme stupid oc it survived 3 years... and I bought it used.. so it lasted like 10-12 years even with stupid oc
@@CheekiBreeki-mq2my In the last 15 or 20 years I have only had one catastrophic GPU failure and that was an old ATI X1600 where the capacitors ruptured quite spectacularly but that was in the early 2000s when there was a year or two where products across the tech industry were failing due to bad capacitors.
Of all GPU's, you do this on a 3080, the most scarce GPU of 2020 XD
Edit 2 months later: Holy, 298 likes, thanks Internet! I even got noticed by Dawid himself!
Hahaha!! I like to live dangerously.
I wouldn't buy a Nvidia card at gunpoint. Radeon is catching up and it has no shady business practices like Nvidia.
Every build i've made in the last year has been Radeon with Zero complaints.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex I'm sure amd is fine but I like my nvidia products. Regardless of their "shady business practices" theyre solid designs.
@@Fractal_blip Would you buy products from say Nazi Germany because they were solid designs?
There is no difference.
Are you an apologist for MicroSoft's shady business practices too?
I only buy them because its a monopoly and I have no choice, Linux won't run my programs.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex i am not so sure that's a fair comparison. The nvidia cards are quite a bit more power efficient lol lmao nazi Germany ofc they had some of most solid engineering for everything from guns to toilets.
“All is well in the world, I didn’t destroy my 3080 with liquid metal, but something was definitely wrong”
Me: War in Hungary
@moose17m what war in hungary ?
@@MarcusDavidus. go to 3:05
@@MarcusDavidus. and 3:34 (I’m guessing there is quite a few of those jokes)
but the real question is will it let yourself shine?
Of course.
Dawid: But I learned my lesson.
*Narrator: Of course he didn't, it's Dawid.*
I'm hungarian and the war thing is actually true...
Me Hungarian too but... Huh?
Hmm maybe I should try messing with liquid metal on my PC once...
Believe me, you don't want to do this, otherwise you will set your pc on fire 🔥
That liquid metal is going to short the rest of the system, so do the preparation with insulation pads.
Dont let your power supply touch the case!!!
@@After_Pasta Yeah I understood his trolling
Wow I didn't know Dawid likes me enough to give me a heart!
Aluminium and liquid metal: exists
Russia: *heavy slavic breathing*
Hungary: *sweats nervously*
Aluminum*
"Aluminium" is not a real word.
@@BennyGoId its the british way. We Americans spell it different
@@BennyGoId
"Aluminium (aluminum in American and Canadian English) is a chemical element with the symbol Al and atomic number 13. It is a silvery-white, soft, non-magnetic and ductile metal in the boron group." -Wikipedia
"Aluminum (Al), also spelled aluminium, chemical element, a lightweight silvery white metal of main Group 13 (IIIa, or boron group) of the periodic table. Aluminum is the most abundant metallic element in Earth’s crust and the most widely used nonferrous metal. Because of its chemical activity, aluminum never occurs in the metallic form in nature, but its compounds are present to a greater or lesser extent in almost all rocks, vegetation, and animals. Aluminum is concentrated in the outer 16 km (10 miles) of Earth’s crust, of which it constitutes about 8 percent by weight; it is exceeded in amount only by oxygen and silicon. The name aluminum is derived from the Latin word alumen, used to describe potash alum, or aluminum potassium sulfate, KAl(SO4)2∙12H2O." -britannica.com
Try exposing yourself to dialects of English outside of North America next time.
I'm feeling Hungary for war.
@@bolshevikY2K most North American don’t give a fuck about how other say it lol. As long as we understand, we’re cool
3-6 months later... "liquid metal killed my 3080" then 1-2 years later. liquid metal killed my PS5
And after that, it starts eyeballing your family!
lasts more than 2 years. my 8086k delided and with liquid metal is still clocking 5.4ghz for over 2 years.
@@pauloa.7609 my 7700k does 5ghz with liquid metal, i swapped it 2 times and it looks like small amounts do get burned or something. Because evreytime I cleaned it there is alot of “ashe” coming of it, grey substance. Also the die isnt shiny as day one, it has gotten hazy. But temps never get above 70c.
I think ps5 come shipped with liquid metal by default
@lucky m3x no what, my dude?
This is really awesome to see you try liquid metal. I can say from experience that it does immensely help with leveling out the temps as an example, on my 7700k, I got a 15c decrease under load and the fluctuation of temperatures was decreased by 5c. I hope you can come back to this at some point, it's much more difficult to do this on a GPU, and I myself wouldn't dare try this!
I have an 8700k from silicon lottery that was delided and put on liquid metal, Its been at 5.3ghz for 5-6 years, still under 60c gaming. Just amazing. Upgrading to 13900KS next month though lol, 24 core 6ghz sounds to juicy.
Could use a thermal imaging tool to find the hotspot that's causing issues
ssshhh that wouldn't be as fun to watch
Oh god. I was freaking out when installing my 5600x, I can't imagine the stress of dismanteling a 3080 ten freaking times.
Honestly Pc Hardware is really simple, its all lego pieces that do a certain thing when in a certain spot.
@@bloodbath-and-beyond I meant ryzen 5 5600x, tho the 5600xt is also a great product lol
honestly only idiots manage to break gpu's when taking it apart by droping it, or stuff on it.
The risk/reward ratio of liquid metal application is far too unfavorable to try it on an expensive components.
Unless you're a youtuber, of course - then it makes for an potentially dramatic video;)
Haha!! I 100% agree. Also considering that it corrodes over time, it just doesn't seem worth it to me.
Meh, risky yes but definitely worth it in some cases to me. High end laptop was an oven out the box. After a little LM treatment you have to intentionally try to thermal throttle it with OC's or it'll never even get close
@@DawidDoesTechStuff it doesnt corrode, it absorbs into it. kinda weird chemically.
www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3362-how-liquid-metal-affects-copper-nickel-and-aluminum-corrosion-test
I love Dawid's types of connections or metaphors, such an accurate representation
It was a wild ride and it was my pleasure my friend. I think a future video with some thermal pad fixes or a custom/better GPU cooler might be in order and I for one would love to watch!
AKA flexing on everyone who can’t buy one by ruining a 3080
Real Canadians don’t need thermal pads, they just run the computer outside
Did you remember when you where able to skip sponsors? such a good times :3
still possible with vanced youtube
Simple adblock.
@@volsavious2319 yup..why not.. let creator die without money right
@@AjdamusMagnus of coursem
Did this to my 2070 super, when I delidded and and did a liquid metal application on my 3900x. Haven't seen gpu temps hit 70 C since, and it's boosting up to 2100 MHz with my OC set. Definitely an underrated procedure, that can unlock some gpu potential, without having to get a $250 waterblock, made just for that card!
Hi, just started to watch your video with this one. You tried liquid metal and got probably 2-3c. Actually if you really wanna optimise thermals, power and performance. Undervolting is something to consider. I am able to run 1860@837mV and temps around 65c (25c room temp) and almost avg power draw of 250-260w. My card anyways use to throttle at 78c and stock clocks would settle at 1850-1900. So it's a win win situation for me. Zero investment, very easy and nothing to worry at all.
So it's not just my 3080 that pumps out more heat than the Sahara...
This went about as well as I expected when I saw your preview posts. Still, it's nice to learn from other's mistakes, especially when it's as entertaining as Dawid's mistakes lol
you need to look at the GPUZ and see hotspot temps vs gpu temps.
if they re different, you have not enough liquid metal or its not contacting the heatsink very well due to pad sizes.
End of sponsor 1:34
That was impressively fast
Thanks paly
Thanks, just submitted to Sponsorblock
Seeing your desk afterwards helped me to understand I'm not alone in having this problem. Often when I'm done working on my PC I'm in flat out awe at the mess I've made lol
Hope we get an update with the correct thermal pads. Will be interesting to see if it actually makes any difference.
Love the honesty with the sponsored kit - No doubt they expected "worked flawlessly / best i've seen" whilst you go with "worked surprisingly well"
This guy: has an rtx 3080
Me: Cries in intel hd 1st gen graphics
Jesus
I use liquid metal on almost everything I can. One thing I don't understand is why everybody recommends clear fingernail polish to protect components. For one, there is a specific type of fingernail polish you are supposed to use for it to be safe and protect correctly. Secondly, they actually make something to do that job properly. It's called silicone conformal coating. You can get a huge jar of it on Amazon on the cheap. Also, I would say after removing a lot of that LM, it looked a little light. There should still be a decent sheen to it. Oh, and if you are going to be tearing down graphics cards and such somewhat often, it's a good idea to have a decent assortment of thermal pads around.
hi I want to ask is it true that conformal coating works? I intend to use Kapton tape.. but many also recommend conformal coating as far as I know it is used on drones or mobile RC to protect it from water
I like how the first thing he says after showing the picture of the liquid metal on it being too much is
"Do you want to die?"
Very brave of you to do this with your 3080 instead of using an older card.
The limiting factor with the XC3 is not the heat transfer between the die and the cooler, but it is the heat transfer between the cooler and the surrounding air. Your result definitely shows that as well.
To truly utilize the potential of liquid metal, you need a water block because at the point, the limiting factor is indeed how quickly you can get that heat away from the die into the cooler. A water block is able to absorb the heat from the die much quicker and more efficiently than an air cooler.
You will see either a temperature difference or you will see higher clocks at the same temperature with liquid metal and waterblock. Also, the other benefit would be that you would be running close to 40-45C so the die will run much more efficiently to begin with. So you will be able to boost up higher while using the same amount of wattage (and therefore getting more performance at the same heat output).
Interestingly, I had the same exact thing happened to me, except on my laptop. I repasted it 6 times before I got the thermal pad configuration right and I actually had to use 4 thermal pads and thermal "goo" applications on two of the remaining VRAMs because 1mm TP was too thick and 0.5mm was too thin. Nevertheless, after my 7th and final attempt, it's running better than ever and I can actually push some decent overclcok with good temps!
I dont know if someone mentioned you a solution to your fan problem.
The RTX 3080 has temperture sensors on it's GDDR6X video memory chips, by default, Hwmonitor cant read these out as of right now, Hwinfo could do the trick here.
GDDR6X is rated for up to 110c, if it reaches these temps (gddr6x runs really hot) the card ramps up the fans and throttles down, I'd definetly look into the temperture as it may be causing performance drops and the high fan speeds.
The GDDR6X chips are the black chips right next to the GPU, a 3080 usually has 10 1GB chips on them, you want to make sure that they are properly connected to the heatsink with thermal pads, You can also put pads on the back of the vram to help spread the heat more, that's a common thing miner's have done to get the memory cooled down, since mining ether (like it or not, but a lot of gamers do it as of recently to make some money back from their overpriced graphics card) is very memory intensive.
Some cards (especially Gigabyte, all of their versions seem to have at least some issues here) have that problem out of the box, but not as bad.
This comment is fairly late and i have no idea if he already solved the issue, but I'm very sure its a vram temperture problem, liking may help him to see it if it's in time, idk.
Don't worry man, replacing just the thermal pads had me opening up my 3080 about a dozen times over a week. Damn weird thicknesses.
You should also have considered using K5 Pro Thermal Putty to replace the pads. It's a thick, viscous putty like stuff that's not electrically conductive, but can be compressed/flow to fit gaps and is meant to replace conventional thermal pads. It's a bit of a pain to work with, but it's effective, and very adaptable due to its playdough like consistency.
Oh yesss! Dawid you leg-end, messing with liquid metal is exactly what I asked for :D
Leg-end... Haha... Ha. Ha. Ha...
I destroyed my 1080ti FE while following a tutorial to do so. Worst mistake I ever had, especially during these times...
So basically, use thermal paste like everyone else 😆
Haha!! Exactly.
YES liquid metal is a trap it will ruin anything it touches, I wouldn't trust it within 10 feet of my PC.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex i have it on my delided I7 8086K at 5.4ghz for over 2 years now.
@@pauloa.7609 8086 at 5.4 ghz?
My old 8086 only ran at 5 mhz, 1000 times slower.
That is some extreme overclocking, but only in 8 bits, that would kind of defeat the purpose.
@@MichaelClark-uw7ex I7 8086K, a special binned edition of the 8700K, you silly dude.
Kraken g12 with an x53 aio is perfect for gpus, had it on 1660ti, 1080ti and currently 2080ti. Temps are great.
What about GT 710 Liquid Metal Edition ?
nice question, imagine putting the best octane gas in your old cheapo car
it seems like your liquid metal probably had gaps on the dye and produced thermal throttling, (possibly)
It's probably the nail polish heating up quick and tricking the sensors into thinking the cpu is over heating.
Yeah, I was also thinking that it could be this too as you'd think sealing them in nail polish would reduce thermal disipation.
I like how he said aluminum “alaminion” 3:05
thats.. how it is supposed to be pronounced you know?
@@chazvr4997 yeah I just like how he says it with his accent I’m American and we say it differently
@@lucid4984 thats the way we pronounce it here in england, just like how you call a bin a trash can.
@@chazvr4997 oh wow that’s cool
@Muzza we say it with a different accent so it sounds soooo off haha
The point of LM is not to always reduce the core temps directly, but rather the rate it takes for the heat goes from GPU to the heatsink so it gets cooled faster.
Even though the fans will still ramp up regardless if the temps are the relatively the same, at maximum load and contentions operation it will be easier to get read of heat especially in temperature spikes and if the cooler also touches other components, for obvious reasons that benefits them as well.
I applied liquid metal on my water cooled 3090, now it can maintain a GPU clock of 2190 MHz with max temps of 35 C (ambient is 19 C).
I got the EKWB block. Asus sell a 3090 with an EKWB block instead of an air cooler.
I don't believe you.
@@trisbane4086 , believe what you want. It’s not like you’d believe any screenshot I take. Keep in mind I was using the EVGA FTW3 500W bios. I just recently reverted to the Strix bios for resizeable bar support and it now boosts up to 2160 MHz. Can’t say I miss the 30 MHz drop in frequency though, probably only useful for benchmark scores
@@Alm8hoorOW Ok, I believe you.
Your issue is due to memory junction temperature. If your memory get to 110c your card Will thermal throttle. You can check memory temperature with hwid info. They are memory chips on the back of the pcb maybie those one are the issue.
I had the same problem with my 3090 adding more thermal pad on the back helped a lot
Dam you make me laugh, one day later no improvement. Love ya work lol.
Linus just did a video on this thermal paste for Vram. Supposedly it increased preformance of the rtx 3080 by 20 fps vs using thermal pads.
Thank you for another entertaining video. What I’ve learned from this one is that I do not ... emphasize the word NOT ... want to ever tear down a video card. 😂
I'm so glad you do all these Dawid, just so I don't have to.
Excellent video!
Yup, thermal pads are the issue, Jay and his 2 cents mentioned that when reapplying new thermal pads you have to put on the correct thickness pads. But keep going, I'd like to see the temps with the correct pads and liquid metal. 👍🙋♂️
I’ve heard rumours that some of these cards have some sort of tamper protection and that they act weird after disassembly
I nickel plate any copper surfaces before using any galinstan (gallium, indium, tin) thermal material like Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. There are kits to nickel plate copper surfaces (I use one called Plug n Plate, with which I have no connection other than as a customer) that are well under $100 US, and the amount of plating material you get will do dozens of heat sinks, and it's easy (takes just a minute to set up, then just a few minutes to do the plating, then you're done). It's probably easier than a lot of people find it to actually spread the liquid metal!
Otherwise, in time the gallium in the compound will migrate into the copper over time. The amalgam formed (silver in color) is slightly less efficient at heat transfer than copper, but the difference is supposed to be negligible. The more pressing concern is that as the gallium moves into the copper, the fraction of gallium in the TIM still between the chip die and the cool plate changes, while the volume of the TIM decreases. This can lead to higher temperatures and a crusty buildup on the heat sink when you do reapply it. There is also usually some minor pitting on the copper surface where it contacts the TIM.
Nickel is far less reactive, and at least in the year or so I have used it, there has been no reduction in volume of the TIM or any pitting on the nickel plated cool plate surface on my gaming laptop. My previous laptop did start getting hotter after a few months with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and it was noticeably more dry than when I applied it.
I've had one gaming pc 2 years ago, a cyber power with an fx4300 & a rx460 2gb. I just recently was sparked to build my first rig. I've got all my parts ordered for my tower and am coming in a touch under $600. Stumbled upon your videos while just doing some research for my build. I am really enjoying your videos and have watched quite a few the last week. 👍
Would have loved seeing some of those sponsored Christmas lights in your rtx 3080.
At least you could have hung it in the Christmas tree then, if it was no longer able to compute.
I'd like to hear Dawid say: 3050.
Thuddy fiddy
@@_._shinonome_._Thiddy fufty ;)
I was thinking “please don’t fuck it up, please don’t fuck it up” and “RMA it.”
As a Hungarian I take this project very seriously... lol
Fun fact. The thermal pads are just a gap filler. You don't need them to be perfect thickness. They just need to squish a little. As long as decent enough contact is made it works
Yes you will see GPUs with thick thermal blocks that are squished out a lot but those are from the factory. They're bought like that for the appropriate use case so they can be thick. Not all thermal pads are created equally after all and it is very likely that the thin pads used are rated for different temperatures. So stacking pads will mess with thermal conductivity too much
3:09 as a Hungarian, i would love that :D Wee need some war bad.
Ditto 😃
Well, the laast couple of wars didn't go really well, so please be careful with your liquid metal.
I thought I was the only one here, but please skip the war part
I still want to see liquid metal rwplacing water in a custom loop, i know it might (and porbably will) destroy something, but the idea is way too cool
liquid metal is pretty heavy if you were to fill a custom loop, also pretty expensive and not sure how the pump would do
When you said "war will break out in Hungary for some reason" I straight up lost it wow
EVGA thermal pads' sizes are really weird sometimes, they have .25mm size pads lol and their shore hardness (EVGA pads are very very soft) probably is so much lower than other brands' thermal pads. If anyone is wondering, EVGA support does sell replacement thermal pads!
I'm not first but I am part of the discord noti gang
@Tayshaun Sandy _smooth_
Thanks for the heart dawid, for the 2nd time.
What I learned from my elders (I'm 70 yo rn) "Ifn it aint broke DON'T fuk with it!
08:57 My usual team in BF V..
Looking at the situation in Ukraine, someone clearly played with liquid metal....
Heating the die with a heat gun of hairdryer helps literally flow the LM flow and form well around the whole die !!!
The reason you don't want an Aluminum heatsink with liquid metal is because liquid metal is mostly Gallium (I think ) and it reacts with aluminum in quite a spectacular fashion. It will literally destroy the aluminum.
I have some white hot molten iron on my pc, is that okay?
"A quick goog." Love it
Not the techiest tech channel. But I enjoy your personality and accent, so I keep coming back for more
a good tip for using liquid metal is to cover the tiny capacitors around the die with a clear coat, usually nail polish clear coat, it seals them up, keeping them from shorting and preventing war in Hungary.
I found electrical insulation tape fine. And that is very simple to remove.
That first application of liquid metal was probably just a bit too much, but the xc3 cooler does not have very good contact to begin with, as you saw, it's not a very even or flat contact pad. take it one step further, and apply just a little bit more thermal material, and then try it again. The gains would not be in the temperatures. In fact, the way the fans are set to ramp in that specific card, ideal temperature it aims for is 75 degrees. What you will see an improvement in, is better boost clocks, or lower fan speed to maintain the same temperature. Keep going, you were almost there.
Liquid metal: exists
Undervolting: Am I a joke to you?
Maybe you could shave the spacers of the cooler down a bit? That would solve the contact problem. The paste seems to cover the bigger gap better, since it is a lot thicker than liquid metal.
"Don't worry - I'm not going to run it like this for any period of time..." I wasn't worried at all - not my 3080 !!! 🙂
Replace or coat broken thermal pads with thick globs of thermal paste (silicone non-conductive). It should set up at just the right thickness.
I have got a solution for your problem (the gpu fans ramping up to full speed) ... its not the thermal pads its the mounting pressure bc die liquid metal layer is much thinner than a normal thermalpaste layer ... so just twist the srews in with full force (if ur scared doing so just watch jaytwocents xoc videos bc he just rapes his cards and they still work) ... my card (palit rtx 2070) is now running at 2080mhz sub 60C so liquid metal helps a lot
I've repadded many cards. It's not just the thickness of the pads (e.g. you mention 1+1+1 is not equal to 3mm). Each pad comes with a rated shore hardness denoting how squishy it is. There are very squishy 3mm pads and harder 3mm pads. Each gpu is very specific for what it needs. Liquid metal is not really beneficial at all on these ampere cards, the gddr6x temps will overheat well before the core temp ever gets up there. Not to mention, ampere dies are convex and you need a thick paste on there for max efficiency, like TFX.
Dawid, Great nail biting video.....
Isn't the thermal throttle issue a driver problem? Read that there were issues with drivers causing thermal throttle.
I was also worried that the sensor was located next to the GPU which you painted in varnish, but guess the sensor is in the heat-sink?
I wouldn't let that liquid metal stuff within 10 feet of my computer.
Gallium is the Terminator of metals, just wait till it starts dissolving the gold in your CPU.
There is no gold in a cpu die
Its good to know its not worth it :P
For people who want less noise and better thermals, its better to pay slightly more for one of the "premium" cards with large coolers.
I have tried several 3090s and the Arous Xtreme has highest average clocks of those I tested, even if I OCed them all.
So of course the larger heatsink means it wont throttle that easy :)
The nail polish saved my ass one of those times . 10/10 recommend.
Instructions unclear; now battling Tiger II in Budapest
I really appreciate this. It's tempting but you showed that it's likely not worth it.
T-1000: "Say... that's a nice gpu"
The one thing people don't understand about using a more thermally conductive material, such as liquid metal. Sure, it transfers more heat to the copper but copper is slower at dissipating thermal buildup than aluminum or an exotic alloy. Copper, while stable under thermal loads can't alleviate the buildup of heat as what you would like quick enough, unless you have a thermal bias point in regards to say, liquid cooling. Air cooling is hit and mostly miss with copper. Why the manufacturers still don't realize this, well, that's a really good question to ask them.
As a toy collector I am most amused that Dawid also has a use for clear Nail polish in his hobby too.
Now I just have to see is someone uses Shock Oil or Floor polish on a PC too.
Here's my experience with Silver King/Liquid Metal: I Watched a lot of tutorials on using Liquid Metal on GPU (1080ti) die before deciding to go this path. Finally took the plunge. It is really only for the dedicated, somewhat risk taking enthusiast, but so far worth the results (compared to 2 year old stock paste). I am using it on my 2 year old EVGA 1080Ti FTW3, which was starting to show higher temps with the old stock paste (which was on the dry side after 2 years of use). My before and after (controlled 70% fan speed) 10 min Heaven Benchmark tests showed a reduction of max stable temps from 78C (holding 1936 Mhz) to 63C (holding 1949 Mhz). The increase in temps is also slower, so in real game use the temps generally stay in the 50s with lower fan RPM. The price of this Liquid Metal is comparable to MX-4, but the risk, reward and difficulty of use is far higher. I must say, it was a bit of a tough process to carefully coat the resistors around the GPU die with clear Nail polish (without getting it on the die) and getting the right (min) amount of liquid metal on the die and the heatsink. This was all done in June 2020, and so far all's well and GPU has been keeping its 'Cool' ;)
About a year later, has anything gone wrong?
@@leyzic9272 its all good. No issues and temps are stable
I wish companies made LM slices...like they make them in the exact surface area of AMD or INTEL CPU's and AMD/Nvidia GPUs. So after you coat the surrounding area with that protective/non conductive stuff then like double sided adhesive you remove the protective film and lay the liquid metal slice perfectly a top the cpu. Spreading it causes inaccuracies on the surface, possible metal leaking and is just sloppy. Liquid Metal slices in strips would be perfect.
My RTX 2080 was hitting 85C consistently while gaming.
It turned out that the thermal paste dried up and the thermal pads were in a bad shape.
Re-pasted it with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, most pads I've replaced with a thermal tape, only one needed to be thicker.
Now runs at 70C and below.
That must have been frustrating lol. I applied liquid metal to my evga 970 FTW+ a while ago. After some months, I noticed crazy temps. Took it apart and it was all dried out. Whatever was on there was rock hard. I had to sand the liquid metal off the cooler plate, and carefully sand it off the top of the GPU die too. Didn't reapply, just stuck mx-4 back on but that was very blah lol.
meanwhile the 3080 :-"never mess with me boy"