It came out really cute, particularly the tiered skirt! For future bishop sleeves though, try copying the sleeve pattern, and putting 3 or 5 verticle slashes though, almost to the top, then spreading the pieces to your desired width at the cuff. This will give you just a touch more room and a better shape up around the bicep.
I was thinking something similar since you wouldn't really want to increase the length of the inner seam that much, I thought you would want a more curved line on the hem that goes into the cuff.
I've worked with a few commercial patterns myself and I've found measuring the pattern pieces from seam line to seam line (aka between the seam allowances) will give you the size it will turn out. The problem with these kinds of patterns is that each company adds a different amount of ease in their patterns so it's a wild guess every time. P.S. That lilac color looks wonderful on you!
If you are not sure about the size, you can make a mockup in muslin weave or cotton. It will take more time, but there will be no disappointments in the end. Plus, it is recommended to do a fitting at each stage of sewing, and not at the very end. By the way, the color really suits you!
I’m no expert, but am wondering if taking it in at the sides would ultimately look better. Taking it in that much in the back may distort the rest of the bodice and the sleeve placement. Love the shape and color!!
Taking it in at the sides would disrupt the skirt. She could take the skirt off, resize the bodice and reattached the skirt. But it would probably be less work to take it in at the zipper. BUT I think the bodice is just a half inch or so too long, so removing the skirt would be a good opportunity to fix that too.
Yes, if I were her I would try to evenly take in the sides and the back. Or like Colleen said, just undo all the seams and resize the bodice completely. Considering linen isn't super cheap (at least from what I can find), I would rather take the time to do that. But I also understand wanting to take the fastest route because seam ripping your work is a huge pain.
Agree with the suggestions, she should take her time and take out fabric from the sides and the back, while removing the skirt. This would indeed also be an opportunity to make some other changes. If I was her I would actually also consider changing the pleats in the bodice to gathers to echo the sleeves and the skirt.
Beautiful! Since you liked the fit when you pulled the sides back, a much simpler fix would be to add waist ties. You would just need to undo the side seams right above the waistline to slip the ties in there. I think it would match the feel of the dress and be super cute!
You've made a lovely dress. I find with commercial patterns it's best to measure yourself and then select a size rather than just choosing a size indicated on the packet. Love the tiered skirt 😍 🙂
Looks good! if you didn't prewash your fabric before you sewed, be sure to do that BEFORE you alter it. Linen will shrink. I have decided that I should start at two sizes lower than the pattern envelope says, because commercial patterns build in too much ease. But I also have decided I will always make a mockup of the main bodice because that's where good fit is essential AND typically where the patterns have the most ease.
Also, some people are suggesting taking it in at the sides but that would disrupt the skirt unless you take the skirt off, resize the bodice and reattach the skirt. I think the bodice is just a half inch or so too long, so removing the skirt would be a good opportunity to fix that too.
I am not sure if you pre-washed your fabric, if not I would suggest washing the dress first so it will shrink. Linen usually shrinks about 10%. Than size it down to fit you.
When you make dresses do you try on the bodice portion to make sure it fits properly before adding the skirt portion? I think it’s necessary to fit things to your body after each significant step
when you are trying to decide on what size to make, look at the part of the envelope that lists the "finished measurements" on each style. it also looks like your midrift band is uneven, laying lower on your right side than left. also, i think that band is a little too wide for your particular torso. maybe reduce that a little when you are fixing things. this dress has really good potential and i can't wait to see when you make the alterations.
I did that with a McCall's pattern, then I laid the pattern out, subtracted the side seams and it came out to around 4 inches larger than my waistline. Who needs 4 inches of ease for a semi-fitted dress?
Very few commercial patterns have finished garment measurements. Start using indie patterns. They do have finished garment measurements and are overal much better drafted.
Usually commercial patterns have the finished garment measurements printed on the pattern pieces themselves. Look at the front piece or whichever piece has the bust apex marked for the finished bust measurement. The finished waist is often on the same piece but in a pattern with a midriff it might be on the midriff piece instead. The finished hip measure is usually on the front skirt piece. There can be 4" or more on commercial patterns because they expect people used to fast fashion to want lots of ease!
100% recommend making a toile and getting a book on fitting and altering patterns. Its boring and add an extra step but has improved my sewing so much, after all the effort I want things to fit and feel good when I wear them. When you know what alternations you need to make for your body it gets easier to do without a toile.
I love this colour, I think it looks good on you! Commercial pattern sizing is definitely a wild ride. I always have to adjust them to my size, since I have non-standard proportions. I think you should definitely be able to fix it (and no, I don't think the dress is too much, I actually think it's quite beautiful and lovely, with its wow factor coming from the tiered skirt and bishop sleeve combo). I just want to point out that the waist section of the bodice is crooked and it's lower on one side. I don't know whether that was a pattern issue, but you might have to detach the skirt part entirely and sew it on again to make sure it all lands correctly along your waistline. The cuffs are also a tad too big on your wrists, as you said, so I think you definitely should adjust that. The thing I would personally change about the dress is the decolletage area, but that's only because I'm not a huge fan of the overlap in general. The dress in itself is beautiful and screams Spring, so with minor adjustments, you will get the perfect dress for this time of year! Also, hell yeah linen! Good work so far and good luck on the fixing stage!
@@ItsThatJo Presumptious of me to assume you didn't know. sorry about that. Many people don't know this aspect, still. And yes, you need tweaks because most patterns are made for an hourglass shaped body, more or less. Unfortunately, not everyone has such a body. Some have a longer or a shorter torso than the majority, and they surely need those tweaks. If you have your chest measurement in one size, and the waist in a different, you have to copy the pattern in such a way, to make the lines go from the size 1 to the size 2, etc.
@@sapphirecamui6447 No worries, sorry if I came across rude as well. It was one of the first things I learned from my mom as she taught me. The magazines from which we usually get our patterns fortunately also have quite lengthy tables for sizing and measurements, which is cool. My problem is that there is a huge discrepancy between my bust measurement and my waist measurement. In a commercial pattern, the pattern for my waist will usually be 2 to 3 sizes smaller than the one for my bust, which is, as you can imagine, pretty annoying to figure out as a beginner (who unfortunately doesn't have much time to practice). I have also tried drafting patterns by myself but even that didn't work too well. I might have to take a course to help with drafting. Now I'm wondering if a bodice like the one Loepsie drafted herself wouldn't be good for me (though maybe without such a deep V-neck). I did love that dress (which she actually wore in this video as well)
I learned something recently about fitting from an old Nancy Zeiman video called Fitting Finesse from 1994 that explains her pivot and slide method. You should fit the shoulders first on a top and then do bust, waist and hip adjustments. I recently made a vintage pattern 14 for my 36 bust and the shoulders hung on me like a sack, but the bust was perfect. It was a nightmare to fix the shoulder fit! Basically, if your upper bust from underarm creases is 14 inches, you pick a size 14, then go up a size up or down in half inch increments (13.5” is a 12, 13” is a 10, etc.). Look at the video, the adjustments are really easy and require minimal math. Basically, I am a size 10 with a full bust and waist adjustment. It makes so much sense!
It is distinctly NOT too much on you! The color is perfect for you and for spring. The style is lovely 😍. Possibly some narrow black ribbon around cuffs and bodice??? Might break up the color attractively.
when cutting a commercial pattern I always check the finished garment measurements instead of just focusing on the standard sizing measurements on the envelope flap
So happy to see a sewing video from you today! I love how you're piecing together everything you like to make this one. Also glad to hear the noise has lessened ❤
No....its not too much! The dress is lovely, just like the lady wearing it...love the color...love the style. I myself would wear it loose...but that's me and being comfortable. Yes you could take it in that way, it's really simple or you could add a tie to pull it closer...also I would add a bit of trim, maybe just a bit darker lavendar to the waist line...to add a bit of accent there and on the cuffs. But it is really lovely as it is, wish I was trim again I would love to wear this style again.😊 Oh I love it so much.
I really like it! And yeah, commercial patterns can be a bit of a trainwreck to work with. I generally always do a mockup of at least the bodice for exactly this reason...
Lucy, your choices of color always perfectly complement your delightful style. This lines dress, a perfect addition to your wardrobe. Hope the house hunt is progressing as well!
It came out so pretty! I know it can be frustrating when something you’ve worked hard on doesn’t turn out the way you hoped, but I would definitely come back to it and work on it if you can. I think the color is lovely on you and I’m so impressed by the tiered skirt! And I think buttons on the cuffs would be a lovely addition!
I think it looks very nice on you! It does look better pinched back, but I think it looks very effortless and chic without the pinch! Definitely a “can’t go wrong” style on you!
This is looks gorgeous! Very well sewn! For your alterations, I would also recommend taking it in from the sides as well as the back, rather than just all from the back as this can distort the shape (speaking from experience). It is more work as you would need to remove the skirt as well, but definitely worth it! You could try putting it on inside out, and pinching out from the seams to work out where you want to remove fabric. Also if you haven't washed the fabric yet, it could be good to do that before making any alterations, as the fabric may shrink a bit. For that reason, it's always recommended to pre-wash your fabric before sewing (although I'm sure you already know that). For commercial patterns, I think others have already commented to look at the finished garment measurements when choosing your size. I'd also recommend doing a mock-up in a fabric that is similar to what your finished garment will be sewn in (i.e. similar in stretch and weight and drape). While it is more work, it will help you to refine the fit, especially as commercial patterns always include a large amount of ease. Different fabrics also stretch differently too (even woven ones), and linen being a more loosely woven fabric has more stretch than a cotton. Its also a good idea during the sewing process to do fittings as you go, especially if you think your fabric may stretch, as you have opportunities to fine tune things while you still have access to most of the seams. I hope that's all helpful!
I'm so happy for you that it has gotten quieter :) and I love you and the dress!! You should try putting elastic on the back to make it tighter. I think the shirring would like good
I think in the correct size, it would be great! I’d love to see this style in a summer floral, greens, white, and yellow? Maybe making the waistband a tie could be great! Pearl buttons on the cuffs!
I suggest you take the dress in at the side seams, cause it'll look much better. Either take of the skirt, take the top in and reattach the skirt. Or cut the skirt and top open at the side seam, take in the top. Sew back and front back together. You'd get a seam down the sides of the skirt, but that gives you a chance to add pockets😉 But so far already looks great!
Black together with lilac is pretty and soft to wear. Lilac color was Vivien Leighs favourite color. Try with a black vest above the liliac top when you fix it, and you find out. You can also add a black cardigan when there are cold evenings if you wear the dress outdoors. Also a great dress to wear on a journey.
From the looks of the pattern it could have been made in the late 90's early 00's which were notorious decades for extra EXTRA ease. Also it could have been they made allowanced for the interfacing and lining layers in the pattern; the fabric is beautiful so I'm pleased that you are sticking with it and making it work. Perhaps taking in the excess from all four seams might make for a more even distribution of fabric loss. Either way look forward to see what you make next :)
Always check the finished garment measurements when choosing your size. Commercial patterns always put a ton of ease in the patterns, or at least way more than I like in my clothes.
Very cute! I'd definitely take out some fabric so its more nipped in at the waist. Also aybe a contrasting color for the waist band or embroidery on the waist band and cuffs.
You look adorable! Also the sizing on commercial patterns is such a gamble omg. There's several ways to take in the dress, some better than others, but I would caution you from taking everything from the center back, it might move the side seam too far back if you do, which will create awkward spots. I suggest you take the skirt part off, then reduce the back and sides from your front and back panels, and put the skirt back on. Thank you for also showing when things don't go as planned, it helps me get the courage to sew as well, since anxiety and perfectionism often get in my way.
Super lovely fabric color on you! I think it looks great once you tightened it. A contrasting trim like you did with the green dress would be fun too, but I think it works plain as well.
I absolutely love the sleeves on this dress! And You did a great job adjusting the fitting of the dress at the end, I have definitely done the same thing before because I tend to not make a mock-up so I end up adjusting my final piece :D
To avoid the back being too wide I always try it on with the zipper pinned in before I sew it in. The texture and shade of the fabric is beautiful, and it looks lovely on you.
If you're considering adjusting the cuffs I'd recommend making it a button up and interfacing the cuffs. The nature of linen is it can go limp as it warms when you wear it and a structured cuff will crumple and wrinkle without reinforcement. A Bishop sleeve generally finishes in a small button cuff (sometimes even just a cm) or an elasticated cuff.
Some patterns have the finished garment sizes printed on the pattern itself, usually in the bodice. That may help to determine which size will be best. The amount of ease in commercial patterns is crazy. I always do a mock up, even though they suck. Lol. I also agree with some other folks that taking it in that much in the back might put your sleeves in a weird place. Taking it in on the sides would avoid this, but you’ll have to take off the skirt to refit it, which might be a bigger project than you want! Good luck with making this dress perfect!
Before cutting your pattern measure the pattern pieces over the bust, the waist and hips to see if it hits your measurements right. Some ease is always added to commercial patterns, and you can spot that before cutting the fabric if you use your tape measure.
I’m glad I’m not the only one having trouble with sizing on commercial patterns! I love the fabric!! It’s pretty and I would definitely cut it down and make it more fitted.
Modern patterns have so much ease in them, that the stated pattern size can be up to two sizes too big. My wife and I are plus sized, so this works in our favour, but for normal sizes, I strongly recommend doing a twirl (mockup) in cheap fabric to check the sizing.
The dress might be a bit much in comparison to what you usually wear, but it's very cute! I think it's something to which you need time to adjust. The flower crown is perfect. Ooh! Maybe make a scrunchie out of some scrap? And a mask? This is what I would do to fit the bodice (feel free to ignore:) Take out the zip and take off the skirt, then fit the bodice by taking it in along that back seam. Re-gather and re-attach the skirt, then reset the zip. This would waste the least amount of fabric and preserve all the glorious swoosh of the skirt. As for the cuffs, I think they look good the way they are, and they'd look good if they were more fitted, so it's really up to you.
When you are choosing your size on the patterns are you looking at the finished size? Sometimes it is on the pattern itself. That will help a huge amount in picking the correct size. Hope that helps.💜
I do love that dress when you adjusted the fit. I think all sewers have had this same problem with commercial patterns because of the ease they add. Don't give up! You'll get there for sure. Wonderful!
Looks super cute. What I've learned when using commercial patterns is that there is body size and garment size. Difference between the two is called "ease". If you want tight fit, garment size should match your body size
What a lovely dress! The color is so pretty and looks great on you! I’ve seen patterns before that will say what the finished measurements are on the actual pattern itself and that typically says how much ease the pattern maker factored into the garment. Modern patterns will have a lot more room in them (ease) than I prefer and I like to check what the finished garment measurement will be so I can cut out the size based on that.
And this is why I don’t use those Big 4 patterns anymore 😂 others have mentioned reading all the instructions/pattern pieces for ease and finished garment info. That’s what I’ve done in the past. Also the more often you sew, the better you will be able to ‘eye’ a waist piece and know whether it will fit you 🤷🏻♀️ nice job!
I feel like this is the issue with older patterns as well. I remember vividly (in the uk at least) there was an uproar when I was 10 or so about how all sizes were to be shifted because our sizes didn't line up properly with other countries or something. The uproar was due to people "gaining" sizes in the new system and they didn't want to be fatter, which makes no sense at all.. But yes sizes were shifted and so patterns made before a certain point will be smaller or larger than others by two sizes.
The sleeves and skirt of the dress look amazing! Commercial patterns usually are a couple sizes different; I’ve found I’ve had to take 1.5-2cm off commercial patterns I use. I think it’s a regional thing? The only change I think you need would be the bodice. Everything else is perfect.
I have that issue all the time with things being too loose and am just finishing up a pattern where I did basically what you described with the zipper to make it fit. I think the issue is that commercial patterns add *so much ease* so when I buy a pattern that matches my waist size the ease then adds two inches to the waist measurements. I have no idea why patterns do this- it's infuriating! And often the ease isn't mentioned on the pattern packet, it's buried on the instructions somewhere inside, so you don't know until after you've bought it and started! /endrant sorry haha, good luck with the zipper adjustment!
It looks great and is a really good colour for you ! Like some others were say you might want to take out the extra from the side seams and not all of it out of the back or it may cause some fit issues other places!
I think the color looks very good on you. I’ve never met a commercial pattern that worked :-(. Perhaps a little elastic on the inside of the cuffs would help pull them in a bit. All in all a very pretty dress.
If you're indeed short on time, and have no way of fixing it immediately, you might try a sash or adding some ties at the side seams, so it ties in the back. It's not ideal, but it certainly works in a pinch.
Well the back is a bit too wide so she will need to take out a little in the back and the sides, the mid part is also just a bit to long, so it's a big fix.
Please check out Charm Patterns by Gertie if you’re frustrated with commercial patterns!! Her sizes are so extensive and so easy to mix and match. I use her patterns all the time - a sleeve from one, a bodice from another, etc. and they’ve all turned out beautifully.
This happened to me once, with a linen dress that I made. It was washed linen, so maybe that type of linen just is like this...I felt so bad becouse I loved how everything else turned out. I didn’t have the patience to modify it so I gave it away to someone that is a size bigger then me. But now I learned my lesson with that type of fabric. Your dress is beautiful! The colour is gorgeous!
I really like the tiered skirt! And will be interested in finding out if you discover why it hung so crooked when you go back to fix it. A good argument for making a mockup :) Commercial patterns never fit me right out of the envelope, they expect a small waist and big hips and way more bust than I have. And also torso shape is not something that often fits properly since we're all so different, you seem pretty long through the ribcage whereas my short torso has my full bust line only just 2-3 inches below where my armpits are and I have almpost no space between my bottom rib and the top of my hip bone for things like waistbands. No way in heck the same pattern could fit both of us well without alterations. And for cuffs I don't intend to button, I go with just a bit bigger than the measurement around my hand as if I were trying to get a sleeve cuff over it, so it's as tight as it can be around my wrist while still allowing my hand to get through, for me that winds up being less than 8" (19 cm) cuff for my tiny 6" (15 cm) wrists.
I’ve only made one New Look dress. N6692. Though I used the correct size according to my body measurements, it was huge on me. It was a fitted sundress with faux stirring (with elastic casings in back). It was at least 10 inches too big. I have been sewing for a long time, but this was the worst fit out of the envelope ever. This was just a muslin for fit, but I did not bother to try to fix it.
I know mock ups are a pain the butt, but if you use a lightweight lining material as your mock up, once you get the perfect fit you can then use the mock up as a lining for the dress, especially the bodice. It might also be helpful if you get a smaller dress form and pad it out to match your measurements. The dress is beautiful though, and the colour really suits you.
I had a similar issue with a dress being way too big recently and took the extra out of the back but now it rubs a little on the front of the armhole if I wear it for a long time or have bad posture. So personally, I'd take in the sides a little and add waist ties! But I think the lilac looks beautiful on you and the style is gorgeous!
Nobody is exactly the same size as a paper pattern. You could save yourself a lot of frustration by first measuring your pattern pieces and comparing the total to your own measurements at those points. Before cutting out your fabric, pin the pattern together along the seams and try it on to see how it will fit. This dress turned out beautifully, just large for your frame!
Because I've lost 10 kgs and 10 cms from my waist in the past two years I have the issue where all my skirts and dresses are too loose on the waist (just like you had on this dress) so my way to solve it is belts. Really liked the dress and the colour looks great on you!
Love the color think it looks really good on you. Think maybe a really wide belt or ribbon around the waist would look good in a contrasting color. And I think I would’ve chosen elastic instead of the cuff then it could’ve been more voluminous.
it's gorgeous. i would just take in the bodice as you suggested (maybe at the sides vice the back) and gather the extra width of the skirt waist into the back to fit the new waistline. i think trimming down the cuff is a good idea, too. i love the bishop sleeves with the tiered skirt. it's really not "too much" at all, imho. :)
When you choose your size do you go off the measurements on the packet or do you look at the finished garment measurements, usually on the tissue paper? The big 4 pattern companies build LOADS of wearing ease into their patterns. I often drop 2 sizes from what the pattern envelope suggests is my size
I'd like to recommend a channel that might help you. Diane Deziel. She is a wonderful seamstress and tailor and teaches a lot about garment construction and pattern drafting. Also, there is no replacement for a toile or mockup to fitting a pattern to your body, but you also need to learn how and where to alter the toile properly. I am still learning these things too.
Many commercial patterns (especially those meant for non-stretch fabric) have added ease in the pattern that is not listed in the size measurements. So you could have picked the "correct" size but that specific pattern has added an extra 2 inches ease to all pattern pieces. It's kinda hidden on the patterns, but look for that and see if that helps you on your sewing adventures~
It came out really cute, particularly the tiered skirt! For future bishop sleeves though, try copying the sleeve pattern, and putting 3 or 5 verticle slashes though, almost to the top, then spreading the pieces to your desired width at the cuff. This will give you just a touch more room and a better shape up around the bicep.
I was thinking something similar since you wouldn't really want to increase the length of the inner seam that much, I thought you would want a more curved line on the hem that goes into the cuff.
Your like a spring princess
I've worked with a few commercial patterns myself and I've found measuring the pattern pieces from seam line to seam line (aka between the seam allowances) will give you the size it will turn out. The problem with these kinds of patterns is that each company adds a different amount of ease in their patterns so it's a wild guess every time. P.S. That lilac color looks wonderful on you!
If you are not sure about the size, you can make a mockup in muslin weave or cotton. It will take more time, but there will be no disappointments in the end. Plus, it is recommended to do a fitting at each stage of sewing, and not at the very end. By the way, the color really suits you!
I’m no expert, but am wondering if taking it in at the sides would ultimately look better. Taking it in that much in the back may distort the rest of the bodice and the sleeve placement.
Love the shape and color!!
Taking it in at the sides would disrupt the skirt. She could take the skirt off, resize the bodice and reattached the skirt. But it would probably be less work to take it in at the zipper. BUT I think the bodice is just a half inch or so too long, so removing the skirt would be a good opportunity to fix that too.
Yes, if I were her I would try to evenly take in the sides and the back. Or like Colleen said, just undo all the seams and resize the bodice completely. Considering linen isn't super cheap (at least from what I can find), I would rather take the time to do that. But I also understand wanting to take the fastest route because seam ripping your work is a huge pain.
Agree with the suggestions, she should take her time and take out fabric from the sides and the back, while removing the skirt. This would indeed also be an opportunity to make some other changes. If I was her I would actually also consider changing the pleats in the bodice to gathers to echo the sleeves and the skirt.
I knew if I got the ball rolling some real sewists would join in! Thanks for the ideas.
@@ColleenMarble Yes, I was going to mention the bodice being a bit long, too.
Beautiful! Since you liked the fit when you pulled the sides back, a much simpler fix would be to add waist ties. You would just need to undo the side seams right above the waistline to slip the ties in there. I think it would match the feel of the dress and be super cute!
This is the very fast fix my lazy heart would've gone for lol
You've made a lovely dress. I find with commercial patterns it's best to measure yourself and then select a size rather than just choosing a size indicated on the packet. Love the tiered skirt 😍 🙂
Looks good! if you didn't prewash your fabric before you sewed, be sure to do that BEFORE you alter it. Linen will shrink. I have decided that I should start at two sizes lower than the pattern envelope says, because commercial patterns build in too much ease. But I also have decided I will always make a mockup of the main bodice because that's where good fit is essential AND typically where the patterns have the most ease.
Also, some people are suggesting taking it in at the sides but that would disrupt the skirt unless you take the skirt off, resize the bodice and reattach the skirt. I think the bodice is just a half inch or so too long, so removing the skirt would be a good opportunity to fix that too.
I am not sure if you pre-washed your fabric, if not I would suggest washing the dress first so it will shrink. Linen usually shrinks about 10%. Than size it down to fit you.
When you make dresses do you try on the bodice portion to make sure it fits properly before adding the skirt portion? I think it’s necessary to fit things to your body after each significant step
when you are trying to decide on what size to make, look at the part of the envelope that lists the "finished measurements" on each style. it also looks like your midrift band is uneven, laying lower on your right side than left. also, i think that band is a little too wide for your particular torso. maybe reduce that a little when you are fixing things. this dress has really good potential and i can't wait to see when you make the alterations.
I did that with a McCall's pattern, then I laid the pattern out, subtracted the side seams and it came out to around 4 inches larger than my waistline. Who needs 4 inches of ease for a semi-fitted dress?
When I first discovered this advise it raised me sewing skill immediately.
Very few commercial patterns have finished garment measurements.
Start using indie patterns. They do have finished garment measurements and are overal much better drafted.
Usually commercial patterns have the finished garment measurements printed on the pattern pieces themselves. Look at the front piece or whichever piece has the bust apex marked for the finished bust measurement. The finished waist is often on the same piece but in a pattern with a midriff it might be on the midriff piece instead. The finished hip measure is usually on the front skirt piece. There can be 4" or more on commercial patterns because they expect people used to fast fashion to want lots of ease!
100% recommend making a toile and getting a book on fitting and altering patterns. Its boring and add an extra step but has improved my sewing so much, after all the effort I want things to fit and feel good when I wear them. When you know what alternations you need to make for your body it gets easier to do without a toile.
I love this colour, I think it looks good on you! Commercial pattern sizing is definitely a wild ride. I always have to adjust them to my size, since I have non-standard proportions. I think you should definitely be able to fix it (and no, I don't think the dress is too much, I actually think it's quite beautiful and lovely, with its wow factor coming from the tiered skirt and bishop sleeve combo). I just want to point out that the waist section of the bodice is crooked and it's lower on one side. I don't know whether that was a pattern issue, but you might have to detach the skirt part entirely and sew it on again to make sure it all lands correctly along your waistline. The cuffs are also a tad too big on your wrists, as you said, so I think you definitely should adjust that. The thing I would personally change about the dress is the decolletage area, but that's only because I'm not a huge fan of the overlap in general. The dress in itself is beautiful and screams Spring, so with minor adjustments, you will get the perfect dress for this time of year! Also, hell yeah linen! Good work so far and good luck on the fixing stage!
You need to check your body's measurements against the sizing size.
@@sapphirecamui6447 I know, I always do that. I still need to tweak them all the time.
@@ItsThatJo Presumptious of me to assume you didn't know. sorry about that. Many people don't know this aspect, still. And yes, you need tweaks because most patterns are made for an hourglass shaped body, more or less. Unfortunately, not everyone has such a body. Some have a longer or a shorter torso than the majority, and they surely need those tweaks.
If you have your chest measurement in one size, and the waist in a different, you have to copy the pattern in such a way, to make the lines go from the size 1 to the size 2, etc.
Yes, the bodice looks a bit crooked
@@sapphirecamui6447 No worries, sorry if I came across rude as well. It was one of the first things I learned from my mom as she taught me. The magazines from which we usually get our patterns fortunately also have quite lengthy tables for sizing and measurements, which is cool. My problem is that there is a huge discrepancy between my bust measurement and my waist measurement. In a commercial pattern, the pattern for my waist will usually be 2 to 3 sizes smaller than the one for my bust, which is, as you can imagine, pretty annoying to figure out as a beginner (who unfortunately doesn't have much time to practice). I have also tried drafting patterns by myself but even that didn't work too well. I might have to take a course to help with drafting. Now I'm wondering if a bodice like the one Loepsie drafted herself wouldn't be good for me (though maybe without such a deep V-neck). I did love that dress (which she actually wore in this video as well)
It’s a really lovely colour on you , won’t take much to get it to fit .well done 👏👏💜
Finished dress is beautiful and unique
I learned something recently about fitting from an old Nancy Zeiman video called Fitting Finesse from 1994 that explains her pivot and slide method. You should fit the shoulders first on a top and then do bust, waist and hip adjustments. I recently made a vintage pattern 14 for my 36 bust and the shoulders hung on me like a sack, but the bust was perfect. It was a nightmare to fix the shoulder fit! Basically, if your upper bust from underarm creases is 14 inches, you pick a size 14, then go up a size up or down in half inch increments (13.5” is a 12, 13” is a 10, etc.). Look at the video, the adjustments are really easy and require minimal math. Basically, I am a size 10 with a full bust and waist adjustment. It makes so much sense!
It is distinctly NOT too much on you! The color is perfect for you and for spring. The style is lovely 😍.
Possibly some narrow black ribbon around cuffs and bodice??? Might break up the color attractively.
when cutting a commercial pattern I always check the finished garment measurements instead of just focusing on the standard sizing measurements on the envelope flap
Absolutely gorgeous silhouette! And you made it in my favorite color!!! 🥰 You look fabulous! 😍 I hope you wear it with pure joy!
The prettiest color lilac. I wish people wore purple more often.
So happy to see a sewing video from you today! I love how you're piecing together everything you like to make this one. Also glad to hear the noise has lessened ❤
Lucy, nothing you do is ever too much . You are the epitome of good taste and style!
I love this dress on you! I think you did a good job with the pattern you had, and with the alterations you want to do I think it will be perfect!
No....its not too much! The dress is lovely, just like the lady wearing it...love the color...love the style. I myself would wear it loose...but that's me and being comfortable. Yes you could take it in that way, it's really simple or you could add a tie to pull it closer...also I would add a bit of trim, maybe just a bit darker lavendar to the waist line...to add a bit of accent there and on the cuffs. But it is really lovely as it is, wish I was trim again I would love to wear this style again.😊 Oh I love it so much.
I love this dress! I agree with it needing to be tighter in the middle but the sleeves and the skirt are a amazing
I really like it! And yeah, commercial patterns can be a bit of a trainwreck to work with. I generally always do a mockup of at least the bodice for exactly this reason...
This colour is amazing! 😻 I'm a big fan of corset lacing on dresses and I think it could help with that "flap" thingie 💚
Lucy, your choices of color always perfectly complement your delightful style. This lines dress, a perfect addition to your wardrobe. Hope the house hunt is progressing as well!
It came out so pretty! I know it can be frustrating when something you’ve worked hard on doesn’t turn out the way you hoped, but I would definitely come back to it and work on it if you can. I think the color is lovely on you and I’m so impressed by the tiered skirt! And I think buttons on the cuffs would be a lovely addition!
Lovely colour choice - anything in the lilac/mauve family is huge this spring.
Omg like the most beautiful dress ever. I would like to have a similar!!! 😍😍😍
It’s so cute!!! The lilac color is so flattering on you💜
I think it looks very nice on you! It does look better pinched back, but I think it looks very effortless and chic without the pinch! Definitely a “can’t go wrong” style on you!
This is looks gorgeous! Very well sewn!
For your alterations, I would also recommend taking it in from the sides as well as the back, rather than just all from the back as this can distort the shape (speaking from experience). It is more work as you would need to remove the skirt as well, but definitely worth it! You could try putting it on inside out, and pinching out from the seams to work out where you want to remove fabric. Also if you haven't washed the fabric yet, it could be good to do that before making any alterations, as the fabric may shrink a bit. For that reason, it's always recommended to pre-wash your fabric before sewing (although I'm sure you already know that).
For commercial patterns, I think others have already commented to look at the finished garment measurements when choosing your size. I'd also recommend doing a mock-up in a fabric that is similar to what your finished garment will be sewn in (i.e. similar in stretch and weight and drape). While it is more work, it will help you to refine the fit, especially as commercial patterns always include a large amount of ease. Different fabrics also stretch differently too (even woven ones), and linen being a more loosely woven fabric has more stretch than a cotton. Its also a good idea during the sewing process to do fittings as you go, especially if you think your fabric may stretch, as you have opportunities to fine tune things while you still have access to most of the seams.
I hope that's all helpful!
I'm so happy for you that it has gotten quieter :) and I love you and the dress!! You should try putting elastic on the back to make it tighter. I think the shirring would like good
I think in the correct size, it would be great! I’d love to see this style in a summer floral, greens, white, and yellow? Maybe making the waistband a tie could be great! Pearl buttons on the cuffs!
I suggest you take the dress in at the side seams, cause it'll look much better. Either take of the skirt, take the top in and reattach the skirt. Or cut the skirt and top open at the side seam, take in the top. Sew back and front back together. You'd get a seam down the sides of the skirt, but that gives you a chance to add pockets😉 But so far already looks great!
Black together with lilac is pretty and soft to wear. Lilac color was Vivien Leighs favourite color. Try with a black vest above the liliac top when you fix it, and you find out. You can also add a black cardigan when there are cold evenings if you wear the dress outdoors. Also a great dress to wear on a journey.
From the looks of the pattern it could have been made in the late 90's early 00's which were notorious decades for extra EXTRA ease. Also it could have been they made allowanced for the interfacing and lining layers in the pattern; the fabric is beautiful so I'm pleased that you are sticking with it and making it work. Perhaps taking in the excess from all four seams might make for a more even distribution of fabric loss. Either way look forward to see what you make next :)
Always check the finished garment measurements when choosing your size. Commercial patterns always put a ton of ease in the patterns, or at least way more than I like in my clothes.
Very cute! I'd definitely take out some fabric so its more nipped in at the waist. Also aybe a contrasting color for the waist band or embroidery on the waist band and cuffs.
You look adorable! Also the sizing on commercial patterns is such a gamble omg. There's several ways to take in the dress, some better than others, but I would caution you from taking everything from the center back, it might move the side seam too far back if you do, which will create awkward spots. I suggest you take the skirt part off, then reduce the back and sides from your front and back panels, and put the skirt back on.
Thank you for also showing when things don't go as planned, it helps me get the courage to sew as well, since anxiety and perfectionism often get in my way.
Super lovely fabric color on you! I think it looks great once you tightened it. A contrasting trim like you did with the green dress would be fun too, but I think it works plain as well.
Such a pretty dress! A love the color and cut. Looks beautiful on you.
Paars! 😍 Schitterend kleur en schitterende jurk!
Ahhh, sizing... I love your design and fabric choice. Worth taking off the skirt and working with the bodice.
I absolutely love the sleeves on this dress! And You did a great job adjusting the fitting of the dress at the end, I have definitely done the same thing before because I tend to not make a mock-up so I end up adjusting my final piece :D
To avoid the back being too wide I always try it on with the zipper pinned in before I sew it in. The texture and shade of the fabric is beautiful, and it looks lovely on you.
If you're considering adjusting the cuffs I'd recommend making it a button up and interfacing the cuffs. The nature of linen is it can go limp as it warms when you wear it and a structured cuff will crumple and wrinkle without reinforcement. A Bishop sleeve generally finishes in a small button cuff (sometimes even just a cm) or an elasticated cuff.
Some patterns have the finished garment sizes printed on the pattern itself, usually in the bodice. That may help to determine which size will be best. The amount of ease in commercial patterns is crazy. I always do a mock up, even though they suck. Lol.
I also agree with some other folks that taking it in that much in the back might put your sleeves in a weird place. Taking it in on the sides would avoid this, but you’ll have to take off the skirt to refit it, which might be a bigger project than you want! Good luck with making this dress perfect!
Before cutting your pattern measure the pattern pieces over the bust, the waist and hips to see if it hits your measurements right. Some ease is always added to commercial patterns, and you can spot that before cutting the fabric if you use your tape measure.
I’m glad I’m not the only one having trouble with sizing on commercial patterns! I love the fabric!! It’s pretty and I would definitely cut it down and make it more fitted.
Beautiful color and dress!
Modern patterns have so much ease in them, that the stated pattern size can be up to two sizes too big. My wife and I are plus sized, so this works in our favour, but for normal sizes, I strongly recommend doing a twirl (mockup) in cheap fabric to check the sizing.
The dress might be a bit much in comparison to what you usually wear, but it's very cute! I think it's something to which you need time to adjust. The flower crown is perfect. Ooh! Maybe make a scrunchie out of some scrap? And a mask?
This is what I would do to fit the bodice (feel free to ignore:) Take out the zip and take off the skirt, then fit the bodice by taking it in along that back seam. Re-gather and re-attach the skirt, then reset the zip. This would waste the least amount of fabric and preserve all the glorious swoosh of the skirt. As for the cuffs, I think they look good the way they are, and they'd look good if they were more fitted, so it's really up to you.
When you are choosing your size on the patterns are you looking at the finished size? Sometimes it is on the pattern itself. That will help a huge amount in picking the correct size. Hope that helps.💜
I think that the color is amazing on you 🥰🥰
You can add two darts on the back. Look up princess seams .
That color tho!!! So cute
I do love that dress when you adjusted the fit. I think all sewers have had this same problem with commercial patterns because of the ease they add. Don't give up! You'll get there for sure. Wonderful!
Looks super cute. What I've learned when using commercial patterns is that there is body size and garment size. Difference between the two is called "ease". If you want tight fit, garment size should match your body size
What a lovely dress! The color is so pretty and looks great on you!
I’ve seen patterns before that will say what the finished measurements are on the actual pattern itself and that typically says how much ease the pattern maker factored into the garment. Modern patterns will have a lot more room in them (ease) than I prefer and I like to check what the finished garment measurement will be so I can cut out the size based on that.
And this is why I don’t use those Big 4 patterns anymore 😂 others have mentioned reading all the instructions/pattern pieces for ease and finished garment info. That’s what I’ve done in the past. Also the more often you sew, the better you will be able to ‘eye’ a waist piece and know whether it will fit you 🤷🏻♀️ nice job!
I think that color looks beautiful with your complexion and hair! But I'm also probably biased as purple is my favorite color.
I feel like this is the issue with older patterns as well. I remember vividly (in the uk at least) there was an uproar when I was 10 or so about how all sizes were to be shifted because our sizes didn't line up properly with other countries or something. The uproar was due to people "gaining" sizes in the new system and they didn't want to be fatter, which makes no sense at all.. But yes sizes were shifted and so patterns made before a certain point will be smaller or larger than others by two sizes.
The sleeves and skirt of the dress look amazing!
Commercial patterns usually are a couple sizes different; I’ve found I’ve had to take 1.5-2cm off commercial patterns I use. I think it’s a regional thing?
The only change I think you need would be the bodice. Everything else is perfect.
I actually love this dress, I don't think it's too much; it looks really good on you when you have it pinned back.
Hi 😊 maybe try pinning it together and try it on before you finish your garment so you have a chance to fix sizing issues before you sew 😊
I have that issue all the time with things being too loose and am just finishing up a pattern where I did basically what you described with the zipper to make it fit. I think the issue is that commercial patterns add *so much ease* so when I buy a pattern that matches my waist size the ease then adds two inches to the waist measurements. I have no idea why patterns do this- it's infuriating! And often the ease isn't mentioned on the pattern packet, it's buried on the instructions somewhere inside, so you don't know until after you've bought it and started!
/endrant sorry haha, good luck with the zipper adjustment!
It looks great and is a really good colour for you ! Like some others were say you might want to take out the extra from the side seams and not all of it out of the back or it may cause some fit issues other places!
I love this dress, and take it in.
I love the color!
Add a sash! I love the color!
I think the color looks very good on you. I’ve never met a commercial pattern that worked :-(. Perhaps a little elastic on the inside of the cuffs would help pull them in a bit. All in all a very pretty dress.
If you're indeed short on time, and have no way of fixing it immediately, you might try a sash or adding some ties at the side seams, so it ties in the back. It's not ideal, but it certainly works in a pinch.
Just starting, but already excited to see what the dress turns into. I love the bright linen!
Don't remove the zip. Just take some of the extra fabrick off at the side seams Loepsie.
Well the back is a bit too wide so she will need to take out a little in the back and the sides, the mid part is also just a bit to long, so it's a big fix.
Please check out Charm Patterns by Gertie if you’re frustrated with commercial patterns!! Her sizes are so extensive and so easy to mix and match. I use her patterns all the time - a sleeve from one, a bodice from another, etc. and they’ve all turned out beautifully.
This happened to me once, with a linen dress that I made. It was washed linen, so maybe that type of linen just is like this...I felt so bad becouse I loved how everything else turned out. I didn’t have the patience to modify it so I gave it away to someone that is a size bigger then me. But now I learned my lesson with that type of fabric. Your dress is beautiful! The colour is gorgeous!
This color is lovely! I know this commercial sizing pain. I hope you’ll post an update. Excellent job!
I really like the tiered skirt! And will be interested in finding out if you discover why it hung so crooked when you go back to fix it. A good argument for making a mockup :)
Commercial patterns never fit me right out of the envelope, they expect a small waist and big hips and way more bust than I have. And also torso shape is not something that often fits properly since we're all so different, you seem pretty long through the ribcage whereas my short torso has my full bust line only just 2-3 inches below where my armpits are and I have almpost no space between my bottom rib and the top of my hip bone for things like waistbands. No way in heck the same pattern could fit both of us well without alterations.
And for cuffs I don't intend to button, I go with just a bit bigger than the measurement around my hand as if I were trying to get a sleeve cuff over it, so it's as tight as it can be around my wrist while still allowing my hand to get through, for me that winds up being less than 8" (19 cm) cuff for my tiny 6" (15 cm) wrists.
I’ve only made one New Look dress. N6692. Though I used the correct size according to my body measurements, it was huge on me. It was a fitted sundress with faux stirring (with elastic casings in back). It was at least 10 inches too big. I have been sewing for a long time, but this was the worst fit out of the envelope ever. This was just a muslin for fit, but I did not bother to try to fix it.
I know mock ups are a pain the butt, but if you use a lightweight lining material as your mock up, once you get the perfect fit you can then use the mock up as a lining for the dress, especially the bodice. It might also be helpful if you get a smaller dress form and pad it out to match your measurements. The dress is beautiful though, and the colour really suits you.
I had a similar issue with a dress being way too big recently and took the extra out of the back but now it rubs a little on the front of the armhole if I wear it for a long time or have bad posture. So personally, I'd take in the sides a little and add waist ties! But I think the lilac looks beautiful on you and the style is gorgeous!
Love your sewing machine
So beautiful 🥰❤️ love the purple on you just wow!!!
OMG! you have a polish sewing machine and pretty old model! Amazing!
So beautiful!!! I really had to make one for me,,love the colour and cut 💜
I just made a burgundy dress that is very similar this month, and it is amazing to wear. I love your dress!
I was hoping after the green amazing dress you would do another similar fun dress. Love the linnen 🥰💜
Nobody is exactly the same size as a paper pattern. You could save yourself a lot of frustration by first measuring your pattern pieces and comparing the total to your own measurements at those points. Before cutting out your fabric, pin the pattern together along the seams and try it on to see how it will fit. This dress turned out beautifully, just large for your frame!
Because I've lost 10 kgs and 10 cms from my waist in the past two years I have the issue where all my skirts and dresses are too loose on the waist (just like you had on this dress) so my way to solve it is belts. Really liked the dress and the colour looks great on you!
Love the color think it looks really good on you. Think maybe a really wide belt or ribbon around the waist would look good in a contrasting color. And I think I would’ve chosen elastic instead of the cuff then it could’ve been more voluminous.
it's gorgeous. i would just take in the bodice as you suggested (maybe at the sides vice the back) and gather the extra width of the skirt waist into the back to fit the new waistline. i think trimming down the cuff is a good idea, too. i love the bishop sleeves with the tiered skirt. it's really not "too much" at all, imho. :)
I like it. Don’t tighten it. If you want it to be comfy during warm/hot weather, keep it loose.
I love your dress!!!
When you choose your size do you go off the measurements on the packet or do you look at the finished garment measurements, usually on the tissue paper? The big 4 pattern companies build LOADS of wearing ease into their patterns. I often drop 2 sizes from what the pattern envelope suggests is my size
I'd like to recommend a channel that might help you. Diane Deziel. She is a wonderful seamstress and tailor and teaches a lot about garment construction and pattern drafting. Also, there is no replacement for a toile or mockup to fitting a pattern to your body, but you also need to learn how and where to alter the toile properly. I am still learning these things too.
I love the dress, the colour and the sleeves wow. I can feel you so much when it comes to the size of the patterns. Its so frustrating
Many commercial patterns (especially those meant for non-stretch fabric) have added ease in the pattern that is not listed in the size measurements. So you could have picked the "correct" size but that specific pattern has added an extra 2 inches ease to all pattern pieces. It's kinda hidden on the patterns, but look for that and see if that helps you on your sewing adventures~