Casting the Punisher Skull logo in aluminum and my 100 SUBSCRIBER GIVE AWAY!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2024
- Sand Casting of an aluminum Punisher skull logo and my +100 Subscriber give away.
www.tinkercad.com/things/3Upb...
Disclaimer--Metal casting is dangerous and can cause injury or death. This video is only for entertainment purposes.
#sandcasting #damonsmetalcasting #aluminumcasting #castingprocess - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Lol! Great intro! Absolutely loved it.
Fantastic cast love it
Great job 👍
Awesome video. Great tips!
Great job!
It's very nice casting
Nice 👍
Solid.
Looks pretty good. I'd approach venting a little differently. They are meant to give smoke inside the sand near the cavity an easier path out than entering the mold cavity, not to let the metal push the air out of the cavity. Usually the sand will be permeable enough to allow that without a direct connection to vents (though 190 mesh is very fine so your sand may differ). Vent through the cope with your skinny vent wire, *with the pattern still in the flask*, but try to stop within 1/4" of touching the pattern. If you sharpen your vent wire it won't make a visible mark on your mold cavity or allow the vents to fill with metal or cause dropping sand if you do happen to touch the pattern. Vents can't work if they get filled with metal - if that happens they won't let the mold gases (smoke) generated inside the hot sand escape through them. Good luck!
Thanks I will try something different more along the lines of what you suggest, but I do worry about the density of the sand not letting air vent out because its 190mesh.
@@DamonsMetalCasting yeah with such fine grains it sounds more like "delft clay" used for sand casting jewelry in tiny little flasks where the sand is a lot less thick of a barrier for air in the cavity to permeate through... 190 mesh sand ought to give a really amazing finish though! I still think it's worth trying not venting the cavity and just using the pointy vent wire to generously vent the hot sand. Best way to learn if it'll work that I can think of.
Loving the quality of your surface finishes on your pieces straight out of the moulds.
Brilliant video 👍🏻
Here's an idea for making it easier to remove the sprue and spin trap positive piece. Embed some small steel pieces in the positive (whether by drilling and gluing in a small chunk of steel, or 3D printing an affordance into which you glue a piece of steel), and then, when it comes time to remove them, use those small strong fridge magnet things to grab on to the steel bits, and lift that piece out vertically.
Thanks posting, you are correct I probably need to do something to fix my pattern removal instead of a razor blade knife. I have seen another youtuber put holes in the backside of the pattern and when its time to remove it, he insert screws with an agressive thread like a wood screw. The youtube then hits back on forth on the screw in the pattern with a small wrench to make the mold cavity just a smidge larger, loosening the pattern and he then lifts up on the pattern to remove it.
Thank you for the .stl files!! Watching and learning before I try this for the first time...
I hope it comes out great! Since you have my email, send me a pic of how it turns out.
Amazing! That cast its realy so smooth
Did u use pure aluminium for the cast? or does it have any additive?
I believe this aluminum used in this video was from computer hard drive chassis that were given to me. So the aluminum was already formulated to be the correct alloy for casting with the elements such as Silicon and so on to make it perfect for casting. It’s very important to use the correct alloy of metal for the purpose it was intended so the results are predictable. In other words, people should not use soda can aluminum alloy for casting, which was specifically formulated to stretch without tearing for the production of a cans. This soda can alloy doesn’t contain enough silicon to aid in casting. The petrobond sand is the other necessity when making a good cast. If you use very fine sand, in this case it was 190mesh it will cover your pattern and make a near perfect copy, being that you have a smooth surfaced pattern. The petrobond sand was also purchased, so it has specific additives to it to make a reliable cast. Basically to summarize I started with materials that had the intended purpose for making good casts. The end product, I did polish on a buffing wheel but when you see me open the sand mold, the punisher skull has a pretty good surface already on it. I hope this helps if you plan on or do cast metal. Thank you for viewing and commenting on my video.
@@DamonsMetalCasting Thanks man! This answer its more complete than spected. It taught me a lot! 🙌🙌
Here's a thought I'd like to hear your opinion on: When you make that side channel that leads to the main casting, connecting to the channel between the sprue and the spin trap, consider doing this:
Don't make a 90˚ connecting channel. Angle it backwards, so that the first run of liquid aluminum shoots past it and only back-flows into the channel after the initial flow has made it to the spin trap. I'm thinking of something like the 30˚ back-angling of the gas channel connecting the barrel of an AK-47 to the piston and cylinder that actuates the gun. (www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/IMG_4313.jpg ) That weird pattern on the forehead of your Punisher skull may be a bit of dross that didn't get trapped in the spin trap and instead got pulled in to the main casting. This back-angling of the channel to the main casting should help minimize the risk of that happening.
I will try that backward angle on one of my next castings. I am not so sure my aluminum was at the correct pouring temperature, it seemed like it solidified too quick on that pour. The melting point of aluminum is around 1,221F and the pouring temp is 1300F to 1400F so there is a range I think I might have missed. I ordered a temperature guage I will try on my next pours to see if I am pouring at the correct temperature.
@@DamonsMetalCasting would one of those infrared optical thermometers work? You might have to take the reading off the inside of the crucible rather than the molten aluminum due to emissivity differences, but that might be the easiest way. Do IR thermometers that read temps that high exist?
@@Berkana I actually purchased an optical thermometer from Amazon 2 weeks ago and it failed to show the correct temperature of anything. I am also concerned that there are not many high temp optical meters made by a company that has a reputable name. So I sent it back and got a meter for thermocouples and a thermocouple that can read to 1300C. I think I will be able to make the video next week to show the results for the thermocouple thermometer.
@@DamonsMetalCasting The most crucial thing about optical thermometers is reading off of a surface with the correct emissivity. That is the biggest cause of mis-readings.
Are you familiar with the role of emissivity and how two things can have the same temperature but read totally differently in IR? I can link to some resources explaining this if you need an explanation and demonstration.
@@Berkana I actually compared my lower temp optical temperature meter with the one I purchased and then returned. Trust me it read like crap on a lot of different surfaces compared to that of my original lower temp meter that read accurate on. Since I don’t feel confident in high temp optical meters (that I can afford) I am going to pursue a different route utilizing thermocouples, but thank you.