Easy 3D Sand Casting using Match Plates for the Pattern
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- #sandcasting #aluminumcasting #petrobondcasting
This video demonstrates the use of match plates to cast solid aluminum mini fake grenades(non-functional). The patterns will be designed in Tinker cad and then 3D printed. The 3D printed pattern will be cast using the sand cast process in Petrobond. A small jewelers 2 part iron casting flask will be used also.
Disclaimer--Metal casting is dangerous and can cause injury or death. This video is only for entertainment purposes.
damonsmetalcasting@gmail.com
None of the items used in my videos were sponsored
Items used:
Cast Iron 2-Part Flask Mold Frame for Sand Casting Jewelry Metal Casting Making Tool
Purchased on AMAZON for $25ish in 2023
Sworker Carbide Burr Set Compatible with Dremel 1/8" Shank 10PCS Die Grinder Rotary Tool Rasp Bits Accessories Attachments Metal Wood Stone Plastic Carving Cutting Cleaning Grinding Engraving
Purchased on AMAZON for around $10 in 2023
Abrasive Wheel, 50/100/200 Pack 1" Buffing Polishing Wheels, Metal Polishing Compound for Rotary Tools-1/8"(3mm) Shank, 120 Grit, 180 Grit, 320 Grit, 400 Grit, 600 Grit(50 Pack)
Purchased on AMAZON $10 to $20 in 2023 - บันเทิง
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Those turned out neat!
Thank you!
Nice casting! This is your first video with match plates, right? I think a video around them (making them, when to use them, when not to, etc) would be cool
Yup first vid. I think that would be a good idea to explore more use of them. I can already tell set up time for a pour was alot less.
Those printed match plates are slick! Thanks for showing those off. I am definitely inspired to give that a try. One thought though, 1500F seems high for aluminum. I have had good luck with 1300-1350F. Theoretically, there should be less shrinkage with cooler metal, but I don't know how much difference it really makes.
Hey thanks! Yeah I agree, I have read online that the aluminum is poured between 1300-1400F. I have run into a few problems with it and I think some of it has to do with my larger castings that cool before I get all the aluminum poured. Another thing that happens is that after I take the temp I pull it out of the furnace then remove the dross and reset my camera angles. On video I can see my crucible start closer to red hot then end at a colder red by time I pour. I am not actually sure what the exact temp is by time I pour but its cooler than when I take all those steps and then pour. I have been subscribed to your channel and have been really motivated in making a large metal vertical casting flask. I like being able to see the flow of fluid through the cavities. Thanks for making those videos.
@@DamonsMetalCastingVery cool! I am glad you like them. When I saw those printed match plates, immediately thought of making a set to do a vertical casting with a patterned running system. If I actually pull that off, I'll make a video and give you a shout out.
@@charliekrauter5176 Yeah I will definitely check that out. It seems like a good way to go to get good results.
nice casting.. try doing an inner core
I will try. I bought some sodium silicate a while back for making cores that I have not tried yet. Thanks for watching and leaving feedback.
Just as an aside, have you ever tried a re-pour using a flask with an intact looking pattern?
I haven't but I could try. Thanks for watching and leaving a suggestion.
My pins are rediculously out of line on my flask as well. Was wondering if I was the only one.
yeah I don't think those companies ever heard of a jig for drilling. lol
The spot where you had some tearout, was there any draft in the pattern? I haven't made a matchplate yet. I'm trying to decide what to make.
The whole handle of the grenade was not at a draft angle. I was hoping that the handle was shallow enough that I could get away with out one. Luckily in my pattern's case the tear out area leaves a small amount of extra aluminum that can just be removed with a Dremel.