I'm so glad you covered this topic. I went from the awkward "attempting to blip while braking" to just slipping and braking ... MUCH SMOOTHER and controllable. Got to implement it @ Homestead yesterday and I'm very happy with the results. Thanks for the video!
I am willing to adapt to this technique because blipping under braking can even be problematic or even dangerous because of the chance of over-revving the engine and ruining the balance. It is weird no one I know uses it, even aware of this technique.
This is my preferred method, it allows me to focus on maximizing the front brake. A lot of my riding friends disagree but I can pass them while on the brakes without sacrificing corner exit. If you brake hard enough the rpms will be dropping more quickly, effectively matching the next downshift. After 1 year I can brake hard enough to lift the rear tire.
Good video. I got some personal instruction from a local racer/instructor and this technique revolutionized my riding on the track. This track is very tight and quite technical and I was having a hard time being in the right gear, blipping down through two gears while hard braking. I was shown how to do this, and kept partial throttle for multiple gear downchanges and since we were braking anyway, we were feeding the clutch out to match revs for the last gear only, really. I was also running the bike higher in the rev range than I had been. While the Ducati 749S can be ridden in the mid-range much better than a typical 600, the bike seemed to be more stable and power delivery more consistent at higher revs.
People blip because they downshift at the wrong time. If you downshift much later, the bike will be very unstable into the corner. You must downshift right away upon pressing the brake, hence, there is no need for blipping because the rear wheel is light and sometimes airborne. Great vlog!!! keep it up!
Bro, I never learned to blip as it was too rough for the street riding. However, I figured out how to slip on my own and do it to this day, it’s a lot smoother. Thanks for the video, now I know.
Slipping alone is fine for a complete beginner that is overwhelmed with everything they're trying to learn on a track day and aren't quite up to race pace, but as you advance in your skills and lap times I think it's undeniable that blipping is better and faster with less chance of risking a rear lockup if the clutch slips out too fast. To my knowledge, prior to auto blippers and slipper clutches all champions used rev matching, and if you look at any pre-paddle race car driving, they all heel toe at the highest levels, which is the car version of rev match blipping. I really don't see any downside to blipping other than you're just bad at it because you haven't practiced enough and possibly need to adjust your levers.
@@bunnyman6321 Brake then downshift while still braking. This is the challenging part because you want to keep consistent brake pressure while blipping the throttle and going down gears.
As a former formula racer I will tell you that everything is different. A race car with dog box gears you left foot brake, blip, slam, no heel / toe and no clutch. In other types of race cars and street cars you always heel and toe or dance around and even use some left foot braking when no gear change is required. Now on bikes the slipper method is superior because no matter how good you think you are you are pulsing the brake and upsetting the forks if you are blipping simultaneously. It’s funny, I always blipped while braking until I got a 23’ Panigale V4S which comes with fork springs that are way to soft. That’s when I noticed the pulsing; now this bike has auto blip but I didn’t want to come dependent on it. So now I am going to apply the slipper technique to my 14’ ZX10R and really see what’s up. The latter bike doesn’t seem to pulse much while braking and blipping simultaneously but we shall see the difference on the next ride. I know that I will be using the slipper method while braking on my 14’ ZX10R moving forward, this is after blipping while braking over 30+ years. If I’m not braking I will always blip bc it’s needed due to the bike not slowing down while downshifting.
I agree With ya , There’s no way this causes any real appreciable extra wear on the clutch , in fact this is how automatic clutches work. The clutch is a friction plate and you are simply allowing it to engage smoothly rather than abruptly. I think many of of us do this unconsciously
I've been using it extensively in my everyday riding for the last 10-15k kms, my bike is a 155 cc non abs / slipper clutch basic bike, no problem with the engine or clutch plates so far
I've found that using the slip method works best for me on hard braking zones after a straight. Where slower turns using the traditional blip method feels a lot smoother. I've got two different track day videos of me using both techniques if anyone cares to critique. I am no racer by any means just slowly working my way up the track day ranks. By the way people gave me so much grief for slipping the clutch even though the bike didn't care at all. thats my 2 cents worth
i do this when im driving my car because i find it way easier and i used to do it on my bikes but honestly it just feels so much more satisfying to rev match on a bike that despite that i find it very easy and comfortable to just release the clutch smoothly i would rather perfect rev matching simply because it feels so satisfying to do something harder with perfection, i like a challenge.
as most motorcycle clutches (as far as i'm aware) are of the "wet" type, i don't think this would wear them unresonably quick, since this is basically "normal" downshifting executed a bit quicker than in day to day traffic. these clutches are designed to withstand a bit of slippage. if you screw up a rev-match it would cause more wear than this. still, i think it would be a good idea to learn both techniques and use them as you see fit. can't learn too much.
Manual Blipping is fun on the road, but I think in a very high braking zone its simply too hard to both modulate the brakes at maximum brake force and blip the throttle at the same time. Thats why I did away with it at the track personally. I'd rather sacrifice some clutch life and use the engine braking to back the bike into the corner a bit almost like applying a bit of rear brake.
@@TH3G0ODGUY this. I would love to see all the people who love blipping do it under threshold braking. It’s simply not feasible. Yeah it’s cool when you’re coasting to a stop on the street I guess lol
I rev match on the street just for fun but at the track I use this process just out of instinct never had an issue but I try to never drop more than one gear at a time. Thanks for the videos I have a long off season so these get my head back in the game.
Likewise I usually blip on the street, but on the track there is so much going on getting to the corner that I find it easier to just let the clutch slip a bit on the downshift.
Whew, teaching this old dog a new trick will take some time, especially considering that I've been blipping the throttle since the early 90's. I even have trouble turning my brain off when riding a bike with a quick shifter. I've got to break through these barriers to improve!
Jamie I'm most definitely not saying "don't blip". If that's the technique you use and it works for you then continue to use it. This video is merely offering a viable alternative to those that chose not to go that route :)
I like this for upright braking zones since timed correctly you’re smoothly releasing the clutch lever at the top of the rev and mph range of the gear below. Being smooth and on time both on the gear switch and clutch reengagement and throttle roll on has yielded a very smooth feeing downshift engine braking combo that I love for a controlled “oh shit stop” where maintaining that proper equilibrium is necessary so as not to overload either wheel or suspension. Still love to throttle blip although on my current 2006 ninja 250 she doesn’t make the most spirited engine noises. Still love her and the community. Cheers to great content.
it depends on which technique youre more comfortable with, for me, i can do blipping downshifts alot faster and safer than slipping. ah well, with auto-blippers and slipper clutches on most bikes nowadays, nobody really needs to learn downshifts anyway. and then, theres electric bikes, soon this will all just be a relic of the past.
iodineclip my 09 cbr1000rr has a slipper clutch but I still feel more smoother if i blip on the downshift, I've tried both methods and I still prefer to blip
Your clutch is in an oil bath, you can slip it for quite some time until it becomes harmful... this technique is basically what every student will learn in his first riding lesson, including the fact that bike clutches are quite sturdy. How do those pros coast along in stop and go traffic if they never let the clutch slip a little... must be a bumpy ride in 1st gear with only gas on/off.
I will try this on track. Actually bleeping has been difficult for me on the track during the process of braking as all the force is pushing my body to the front so having to rev + front brake + dowshif + the force are to many variable. On slow braking curve can be achieve but on hard braking is difficult
Set your ass allready aside before you start breaking. This way you can hold you going forward with your leg. If there's tol much force on your arms, change technique and start working out.
Great! I've done this since I started trackdays and started to think I need to change and started blipping the throttle. I only use the front brakes and therefore I like the enginebraking that I get with not blipping the throttle at downshifts.
I think blipping is more worthwhile on certain bikes, like big twins or single cylinder bikes simply because they'll have a higher chance of slowing the rear wheel considerably with their higher level of engine braking. Outside of that though I personally don't think it's entirely necessary if you can perform a tidy slipping downshift.
this technique is not as lame as one might think. I have a dry clutch and smaller bike. I tried this technique with reluctance but I have initial results. I would say I need more practice. As our guy said, SPEED is the key.
For the track on the straights with the highest speed I just let the slipper clutch work how its designed, slower corner entries I blip the throttle. There's always that possibility you can be a little harsh blipping and downshifting and upset the bike which could cause a crash when braking from high speed.
I find for spirited riding especially on track leaving the throttle at a constant and downshifting helps to rev match & keeps the suspension more unsettled. Leaving a more stable turning chassis.
When you enter a corner you have a maximum available traction on each tyre. The rear tyre has slightly more traction; thats why the perfect balance in a corner is found by rolling on the throttle slightly throughout the turn to ensure a slight rearward balance. If you have a snatchy throttle hand, uneven braking or jerky downshifts the bike will bounce forward and back on it's suspension varying the available grip with compression and rebound. Obviously the fastest way through a corner is to use the _maximum traction of each tyre the whole time_. If the suspension is bouncing forwards and backwards you can obviously only corner as fast as the traction allows _at the point of least traction,_ obviously after the rebound of either the forks or rear shock. Smooth corner entry, and traversal allows faster corner speeds, that's quite standard in all forms of motorsport.
I've found it natural to "clutch blend", I called it, but I am also lightly raising the rpms to match the difference, according to my need and what's needed for the curve. As a result the auditory difference between my gears is almost non-existent, and my transition, even in a curve, is smooth, not upsetting my bike. Granted, I'm not on a track, but I get to practice this a lot in my local canyons and mountains. I never blipped my manual transmission in my car when driving, focusing on smooth transitions and NOT a 4-step process for manually shifting, so it came naturally on my bike.
Thank you for sharing. I race minis and I don't even bother with the clutch once I'm rolling lol. I think it would be fun to slowing work my way back to big bikes on big tracks and the techniques I've learned here make a lot of sense for that translation.
I like to do a clutchless downshift when I get off the throttle and onto the brakes and then use the same technique as described here but quickly whilst you have some engine breaking
I manual blip when upshifting on corner exit and slip naturally on track and on street when down shifting in braking zones. Riders introduce unnecessary input to the front end when blipping, add this to hard braking at the end of a long straight or anywhere hard braking is occuring. Hard braking wirh right hand while blipping with right hand is a waste of focus, causes rider fatigue, causes bike to be less stable and is dangerous. Personally, i prefer to close the throttle completely then get on brakes almost imstantly after. I quickly and controled squeeeeeez front brakes to max braking. Next i immediately go down gears quickly as possible to the gear i want to use throight the corner using the clutch slip. Now, i have much more control of the bike and it it easier to ride faster through corners due to being stable. If i do back it in, having my fingers on the clutch can also leave me in a position to feather out of a situation where i loose traction on the rear due to engine braking induced slide or rear wheel hydro plane in the wet or similar type loss of rear wheel traction
This technique is new to me but will give it a try. Your explanation makes sense to me in that when I'm hard braking I totally understand my front wheel getting too much action while I'm blipping down especially when I blip and, to your point, I lose focus braking and my corner entry line. And I've been noticing sometimes I'm way too low in the revs at exit and that frustrates me. I have a 2010 Z1000 so I can beat her up a bit to learn the slip lol. Never been to a track so just talking mountain pass runs and I give her the beans.
I havent got much experience on track yet with hard breaking, but what you're saying sounds completely logical to me. I've tried downshifting with blipping a bit to experiment, but already immediately faced the problem of using thesame hand for blipping as well as braking. It just doesn't feel right. Slipping feels more natural, more controlled, and i've automaticly been doing it already even before i heard it being called slipping. 🤷♂️ Maybe with more track time i'll see the blipping technique benefits, but right now it's just a distraction and so I've put it on the bottom of my list.
Everyone his taste, but blipping makes the bike WAY more stable and calm going into the corner. The thing with blipping is: keep braking. And practise at low speeds first
I feel like this can work for 1 shift, but my local track has 2 hard braking zones after long straights that send me from 5th or 6th down to 2nd. How does this technique account for that? I just wind up chewing the hell out of my rear tire.
Thanks for this tip. I'm a novice rider and have been trying to improve downshifts with blipping for some time. I'm struggling to prevent the blips adding/reducing brake pressure - as such I'm looking forward to giving this technique a try.On a similar but unrelated topic.... I have just finished watching the 2004 Moto GP season. Throughout the season a camera was fitted to Rossi's bike showing us his clutch hand. I noticed he was doing something that I did not fully understand, I wonder if you can shed some light on in. As he approached a corner he would shift down through the gears releasing the clutch and blipping the throttle. On the final gear change he would hold the clutch in while he applied the steering input and then gradually/slowly release the clutch. The clutch was re-engaged just before he applied the throttle (somewhere near the apex). Basically the clutch was being released slowly between the turn in point and the apex (i.e. over several seconds). Was he doing this to reduce engine braking during the first part of the corner? If so, why?
That's what I'd assume too Len, that he was trying to cut down engine braking. I can only guess why though. Pretty sure 2004 was his first 4-stroke bike. It's entirely possible he was trying to create the same feeling of the 2-stroke, which used to have a lot less engine braking.
Actually I got it mixed up. He came from the V5 Honda after the 2003 season. It think that's probably still a good theory though. He wanted a more 'free wheeling' bike at corner entry. Would be interesting to see how that technique developed as he developed the bike.
He seemed to do it all season. I'll keep my eye out for other clutch cam shots. I would think the current control systems manage the engine braking sufficiently well that you don't need to do this. If I ever find myself on a 1098 I'll give it a go!
Hi.... I had a similar problem as u did when I started track days. Under heavy braking, my blipping action wiggled (unstable brake press) the front end or in some cases rear wheel lock. My trackday mates adviced me to try the slipping technique but i failed. Like Keith Code said 'it takes up too much attention'. My muscle memory were already tuned for blipping when so I continued to try perfect it. I resorted to use of one finger (middle). Blipped the throttle as late as possible (just before tipping the bike) that way the revs are low & your wrist action is less. And therefore more stable front end. Not shooting down other methods just sharing my experience when I was unsure which route to take..... Thanks Dan taking it to YT. Thanks everyone sharing
This happens at first when you're learning. You only have to make a little bit of throttle and it also depends on the bike. Blipping rev matching is excellent when you wan to downshift quickly before hard acceleration for an overtake, for example.
I will try it.... i m pretty new at track riding but improving fast. Shiftng needs to improve alot before I will get faster. First 50 laps track day about 2 20 for 2.2 mile track w a quarter mile straught I can build up to 125 before turn 1. Today, once the tires warmed up I got loose and hit some 1 55 laps. Can i add a shift gear display on my 2006 cbr6004fi. I think that would coach me knowing the gear im in at any moment.
I also instinctively used this technique,i guess, it comes automatically when you get to know your bike well, mine is a non-abs small bike, so this technique is super important for me. Helped me around the corners when arriving at high speeds, downshifting in this way helps me reduce the speed, sometimes the rear tyre locks but for micro seconds, it's fun
Any properly executed shift that can be done efficiently will be ok for the bike. Ive used all, and use no clutch anymore mostly, but its just a matter of preference for me.
I ended up here bc of the shit springs in my Panigale and just tested the slipper method on my 14’ ZX10R, after 35 years I will never brake blip again. Such a simple concept and my stubbornness never allowed me to listen until I had shit springs.
It’s funny, I always blipped while braking until I got a 23’ Panigale V4S which comes with fork springs that are way to soft. That’s when I noticed the pulsing; now this bike has auto blip but I didn’t want to come dependent on it. So now I am going to apply the slipper technique to my 14’ ZX10R and really see what’s up. The latter bike doesn’t seem to pulse much while braking and blipping simultaneously but we shall see the difference on the next ride.
the clutch is a running cost i think of it as oil is something u account for having to change if its going to put a bit of extra wear on then so what i ride off road aswell and on my bike my running costs are pistons oil tires chains clutch brakes some of these take a while to wear but there essientaly the same
Great video tutorial.i search for downshift track it went straight to your video.am now a subscriber 😀 btw if you can give some pointer to downshift from 6 th to 2nd on a long straight going into T1 tight corner would be much appreciated
Since I am NOT a racer...my Track Days are simply to keep my Street Skills fine-tuned. My biggest 'battle' sounds amateurish, I realize, but I don't have a gear indicator, and I don't always know if I am going from 5th to 3rd or 6th to 4th... )-; ... So I use a bit of 'slip' when I am not sure, to 'feel' the response as engagement begins. If the bike sort of lags, I need to go down one more. (-: The mountain roads I Play on ( including the well-known "Tail of the Dragon" ) often have multiple curves that happen quickly and go uphill and downhill at a very 'random' manner ... unlike a Track where you repeat the same pattern with each lap. I have tried the "add-on" Indicators that use magnets on the foot shifter...but found them to be unreliable. And I have not found an electronic unit that fits with my bike. But I always try to release the clutch in a smooth manner, rather than "dumping it"...much the same as 'squeezing' the brake rather than grabbing it... Don't 'shock' the friction patch of the tires...
Yeah I can understand that, Floyd. I imagine on those twisty roads your attention can get taken away from your gearing as you focus on everything else you need to.
I appreciate the humor.. (-; But if I am entering a curve in 5th and braking hard, I am often going to want to Exit in THIRD... Cutting 30mph or more, then exiting uphill on the other side is going to need more than one gear drop... mountain roads are not just sharp turns, but also uphill and downhill...
I always think it's so weird how people can't keep track of their gears on the bike. My brother never counts his gears but he's still pretty fast. I dunno, just always seems odd. Since I first got on a kx65 when I was 9 years old I've been on it about what gear I'm in. Maybe I'm just picky lol
Can you plese cover what you do when dropping more than one gear? I use this method too but sometimes I feel like my braking is outspeeding my downshift and I feel like dropping more gears at once before re-engaging the clutch. It would be really interesting to know your opinion on this. Thank you for the video!
I do this all the time, both on and off-track, as I don't have a slipper clutch. Dumping the clutch when downshifting from high revs on my 990 SMR (big twin) would potentially lock up the rear. My previous 690 Duke had a slipper clutch and I could ride more agressively on-track. I kinda' miss that feature on my 990.
Can you downshift by more than 1 gear in one action of pulling clutch in? Or do you have to pull in and release the clutch for every gear you wish to go down to?
I built too much muscle memory with the manual blipping to go to the slipping technique. It takes me more brain power to feed the clutch smoothly than just blip and get the clutch done with, the slipper clutch helps too
I do both, if I'm coming too fast into a 90 degree turn and have to shift from 6th straight down to 2nd or 1st I'll slipp it, otherwise I blip it. In my car I exclusively use the slipping technique, never taught myself to rev match there.
I do blipping to impress co riders that i know how to do it but when im in a race mode in the twisty mountains for me the fastest tecnique i use is to hold on to the current gear im in then ride the bike and lean with it as far as the speed takes you to lean and when i exit the corner when I feel the need to downshift one gear down that's the time I do it quickly and with my technique i find the bike more stable no unnecessary movement whatsoever and Im fastest in my group. PS i do this in a mountain uphill and downhill paved road twisties.
This technique is a lot easier when your gears are closer together. On my 250 you only need to blip if you aren't braking. Otherwise constant throttle or a small decrease in revs is actually what you want.
I am intermediate rider, i seem to come into tight corners fast for me and i start downshifting to enging brake (but usually end up in first gear while beginning to trail brake with front brake. My rear tire often skids I think because i shift a gear to low. At that point i either have to up shift or ride the corner at hight rpm and low speed. It also causes me to have throttle a bit open now to drive me through the turn. Something doesnt feel right. I have an RC 51 Honda for 12 years now and still trying to get this right. With out a digital read of of what gear im in i often end up down shifting to first gear which is why my back tire will skid (in a straight line) while im hard on front brake. If i could just shift down to second gear i stead of first, i would have a much better turn. I give gas on exit, but very, very soon have to shift up because rpm very high and run out of my exit gear very quickly. I know i could use some track lessons. I come from dirt biking as a kid and adult. Now on street i tend to trail brake with front hard and rear slightly. In dirt i dont think i ever use front brake very much at all because the front in dirt, always tuck my front tire. I always used rear brake in dirt, and on street the breaking is reversed, being 90 percent front and 10 percent back brake. Should i stop using rear brake on asphalt into corners? I wish i had a lcd read out of the gear im in. Thanks
This absolutely makes sense to me...especially on a bike with no slipper clutch. However, I’ve never been able to master this coming into a 2nd gear corner from a high speed straight. I just dump it. 😱 This is why I’m not a pro racer, or even amateur LOL 🤷♂️
Often I will hold throttle steady and in almost a twitch speed pull clutch and downshift. The only noticeable change is slightly higher rpm. This was the easiest method I've learned.
Can you down shift from 6-5 gear to 3-2 gear at one time clutch in and out ore is it Every gear down in and out with the clutch handel ? Kawasaki z900 2019
What about when you need to downshift through multiple gears, are you doing this technique through each gear or are you pulling in clutch, downshift through the multiple gears and then release clutch per your technique?
Depends on the bike Brad. If it has a slipper clutch then multiple gears in one go is doable. Without one though the revs may drop off a little too much, meaning the re-engagement could get hairy. In that case a one by one approach might be better. Also depends on the the area of the track too and how much time you have too.
I had a scary moment when, at the end of a short straight, i shifted into 1st instead of 2nd and locked the rear. Luckily i cleared the bikes just behind me but i was about to shit myself quite badly.
I've been trying to blip a bit lately just round and about the streets and it's tricky when coming to a tight corner and dropping 2 or 3 gears I get myself in a muddle
I must be a one off because if it's dry I tend to blip while in the wet I blip at speed but use clutch slip when going down to 2nd or 1st depending on grip levels. As far as mechanical issues all it's going to do is wear the clutch ever so slightly more. It really is a none issue. If you do one race start you will do more damage than a whole year of doing this.
Probably coming to this topic a few years later than everybody else by the sounds of it 🙂 As somebody who raced for many years and always blipped the throttle on downshifts without thinking there was a problem with this, I wondering what would be the advantage to this slipping technique? I don't think the video gives a clear advantage......
How about using the slipping technique while keeping the throttle a smidgen open? I use this technique typically while downshifting before a downhill sharp corner. It makes the rev matching fase (the slipping) a little more smoother even.
I hold the throttle on Whilst braking at the same time 3 fingers Front brake and rest of the hand controlling throttle . I never use rear brake only engine braking and front brakes. I some time s get the rear to back in a little which helps because the turn is already slightly made . It's probably my biggest strength braking. My weakness is definitely corner speed. I'm working on that now . It's weird for me cause I also go to the track in my V8 Commodore so one week it's heel toeing with my feet next week it's palm fingers with my hands on the bike lol
Just got a 2021 zx10r I've never had a quick shifter or auto blipper on a bike. I went from a 06 fireblade to a 2021 ninja. I can down shift using the clutch and throttle by flipping my throttle wile down shifting but I can't seem to get it using the auto blipper on my ninja... One thing to note is I still have stock exhaust on my ninja and it's hard to hear my motor through my helmet. So I use the quick shifter but to down shift I resort the the old school way of clutch and blipping the throttle... Also the 2021 ninja has a chip controlled throttle that is EXTREMELY SENSITIVE. I'll will say this,,, I do not like the chip throttle. I'm sure in time I'll get use to it. But there is a big difference between these to bikes controls.. Also I still have my cbr and ride it just as much as the ninja. I think it's just the sound of the aftermarket exhaust but I just prefer it over a stock. I find myself after about 30min of riding the ninja heading home to get my cbr. But maybe after the 600 mile break in, win I can ride it like I ride my cbr I'll start practising a little more with my Ninja.
There is no doubt it is a valid technique, but I don't think it wise for universal track application for anyone pondering that. For example, at our now closed local track, I established a 3 -2 downshift between two corners close together. It had to be done very fast, no way was 1/2 a second of time available for use. The example depicted in the video looked like a very valid application of the slipper method, keeping in mind it also eliminates a right hand motion as part of it (the blipping), said motion potentially being describeable as wasted motion, and therefore also inefficient. I'd think that for a series of downshifts, because of the time duration, some throttle application would be needed to match rev the engine during a slip method re-engagement at the end. Lastly, I tried a blip/slip method with my non slipper clutch bike and found that really smoothed the chassis out, especially when also hard on the front brake.
Being honest, I've never encountered a downshifting zone that required that many shifts in that length of time, if I've understood you correctly. I could do multiple shifts on my non-slipper 04 R6 quickly in a few areas (in hindsight I wish I included it here), but I've never felt like it would benefit me to do it even quicker than that. But yes, if the time isn't there and blipping helps then that's clearly the way to go in that instance.
Thanks for the reply and advice. My explanation was not as good as it should have been. It was a 3rd down to 2nd in between an almost chicane like right and left turn, the left being slower.
Hi, just wondering if you keep your trottle off during the whole time of downshifting? Or do you slightly open a bit of trottle to rev matching? Thanks.
I've always found it difficult to maintain constant front brake pressure and blip the throttle at the same time. Hopefully this technique helps! Thanks:)
Me too, but I found a technique, I do not know If it is proper, I need to discuss it with people who mastered it. So...Hold the throttle tube and the brake (two fingers on the brake) then try to twist your arm If you understand what I mean by that, the result will be your thump (and the little finger) to be pressed against the throttle tube then I found out it is easier to twist the wrist and blip the throttle while keeping the brake level pressure unchanged it is important also to have relatively high rpm so the engine to be in its responsive band and small twists on the throttle to become substantial increase in RPMs fast.
Shit. I do this for my manual cars but never thought about it for my bike. I slipped it once going fast and let the clutch off too fast and made me back it in. Never tried that shit again. Seems to me it's better for high speed down shifts. I will try! Thanks!
i like bliping because it looks cool...lol...i think what ever is more comfortable is what you should do as long as the end result is not upsetting the bike going into the corner...
I used it its a little harder on the cutch but you will quickly start working the clutch quicker and next thing ya know you will be a blipping expert. Dont take to long.
Doesn't this stuff up the gearbox dogs by clashing them together with a bigger rev mismatch than if you blip? I'm not enough of a gearbox expert to be sure, but that sort of damage doesn't show up in the short term so you might not be aware of it until high mileage has passed.
Hi Dave, on the track it just means your downshifts are simplier as it takes away the blip. With regards to street riding blipping is a little easier because you're not performing very hard braking from very high speed. Technically speaking it's better for the bike to blip, but I personally still wouldn't blip on the road. So really the decision is entirely up to you in my book.
My bike has a close ratio trans. Ninja 1000. The first method is the only one that will work. In normal riding conditions less than 500 rpm between gears. A 300 rpm blip is very difficult. If I just hold throttle, clutch, then downshift it's smooth as butter.
I’m using this technique when I’m hard on the front break... I found it hard to revmatch with the throttle when braking hard at the same time! But; when I just need enginebreak into a turn I revmatch! So: I use both
I'm curious what the advantages are to this? If I can be hard on the brakes and still blip down into the right gear am I losing any speed as opposed to the slipping method as long as I end up in the right gear for the corner? I've heard riders much better than I suggest that even coming off a straight they will go down multiple gears and then slip it out but at the end of the day any of these methods would yield the same results as long as they don't somehow limit your ability to clamp down on the brakes, or am I missing something?
Tristan, there are still high level riders that blip the throttle. Shane Byrne in BSB was one of them, born from the days when blipping was more important. You don't see it as much now, but if you make it work and it's comfortable I wouldn't tell you to change.
Facts: blipping the throttle causes uneven braking. Which is more important than worrying about having to replace your $500 clutch at 35,000kms instead of at 45,000kms especially when your spending $500 on each track day in fees and tyres.
It isn't bad for the bike, it just wear out the clutch a bit faster because of the slipping. But as long you don't let slip the clutch really long in each gear changing progress the bike itself will be fine, because the oil in which the clutch itself is covered has enough time to cool down the clutch.
I tried blipping the last year or so with limited success. The best way for smooth downshifting is to hold my throttle at a constant point and downshift from there.
But then your rear tire is fighting your front tire going into the corner as slight throttle means the rear tire is trying to move forward. I guess you could compensate with rear brake, but then you're putting all kinds of stress everywhere on your bike. Just practice more and do it right.
I'm so glad you covered this topic. I went from the awkward "attempting to blip while braking" to just slipping and braking ... MUCH SMOOTHER and controllable. Got to implement it @ Homestead yesterday and I'm very happy with the results. Thanks for the video!
Exactly what I felt! I can focus more on braking rather than braking while blipping the throttle
I am willing to adapt to this technique because blipping under braking can even be problematic or even dangerous because of the chance of over-revving the engine and ruining the balance. It is weird no one I know uses it, even aware of this technique.
This is my preferred method, it allows me to focus on maximizing the front brake. A lot of my riding friends disagree but I can pass them while on the brakes without sacrificing corner exit. If you brake hard enough the rpms will be dropping more quickly, effectively matching the next downshift. After 1 year I can brake hard enough to lift the rear tire.
This is the only advantage I can see because it just physically takes longer to blip. I'm surprised he didn't bring this up in the video.
You can see Marquez doing this from 2012 Moto2. There is even an onboard showing his hands. Seems to have worked for him.
Good video. I got some personal instruction from a local racer/instructor and this technique revolutionized my riding on the track. This track is very tight and quite technical and I was having a hard time being in the right gear, blipping down through two gears while hard braking. I was shown how to do this, and kept partial throttle for multiple gear downchanges and since we were braking anyway, we were feeding the clutch out to match revs for the last gear only, really. I was also running the bike higher in the rev range than I had been. While the Ducati 749S can be ridden in the mid-range much better than a typical 600, the bike seemed to be more stable and power delivery more consistent at higher revs.
People blip because they downshift at the wrong time. If you downshift much later, the bike will be very unstable into the corner. You must downshift right away upon pressing the brake, hence, there is no need for blipping because the rear wheel is light and sometimes airborne. Great vlog!!! keep it up!
Bro, I never learned to blip as it was too rough for the street riding. However, I figured out how to slip on my own and do it to this day, it’s a lot smoother. Thanks for the video, now I know.
Slipping alone is fine for a complete beginner that is overwhelmed with everything they're trying to learn on a track day and aren't quite up to race pace, but as you advance in your skills and lap times I think it's undeniable that blipping is better and faster with less chance of risking a rear lockup if the clutch slips out too fast. To my knowledge, prior to auto blippers and slipper clutches all champions used rev matching, and if you look at any pre-paddle race car driving, they all heel toe at the highest levels, which is the car version of rev match blipping. I really don't see any downside to blipping other than you're just bad at it because you haven't practiced enough and possibly need to adjust your levers.
Do you brake then downshift or downshift then brake?
@@bunnyman6321 Brake then downshift while still braking. This is the challenging part because you want to keep consistent brake pressure while blipping the throttle and going down gears.
@@nunyabusiness896 Thank you!
Totally agree!
As a former formula racer I will tell you that everything is different. A race car with dog box gears you left foot brake, blip, slam, no heel / toe and no clutch. In other types of race cars and street cars you always heel and toe or dance around and even use some left foot braking when no gear change is required. Now on bikes the slipper method is superior because no matter how good you think you are you are pulsing the brake and upsetting the forks if you are blipping simultaneously.
It’s funny, I always blipped while braking until I got a 23’ Panigale V4S which comes with fork springs that are way to soft. That’s when I noticed the pulsing; now this bike has auto blip but I didn’t want to come dependent on it. So now I am going to apply the slipper technique to my 14’ ZX10R and really see what’s up. The latter bike doesn’t seem to pulse much while braking and blipping simultaneously but we shall see the difference on the next ride.
I know that I will be using the slipper method while braking on my 14’ ZX10R moving forward, this is after blipping while braking over 30+ years. If I’m not braking I will always blip bc it’s needed due to the bike not slowing down while downshifting.
I agree With ya , There’s no way this causes any real appreciable extra wear on the clutch , in fact this is how automatic clutches work. The clutch is a friction plate and you are simply allowing it to engage smoothly rather than abruptly. I think many of of us do this unconsciously
I've been using it extensively in my everyday riding for the last 10-15k kms, my bike is a 155 cc non abs / slipper clutch basic bike, no problem with the engine or clutch plates so far
I've found that using the slip method works best for me on hard braking zones after a straight. Where slower turns using the traditional blip method feels a lot smoother. I've got two different track day videos of me using both techniques if anyone cares to critique. I am no racer by any means just slowly working my way up the track day ranks. By the way people gave me so much grief for slipping the clutch even though the bike didn't care at all. thats my 2 cents worth
Blips are more fun, but if you are serious about using the brake, then its slip all the way.
Can i ask you a question? Any problem when i blip the throttle and downshift without using the clutch?
i do this when im driving my car because i find it way easier and i used to do it on my bikes but honestly it just feels so much more satisfying to rev match on a bike that despite that i find it very easy and comfortable to just release the clutch smoothly i would rather perfect rev matching simply because it feels so satisfying to do something harder with perfection, i like a challenge.
as most motorcycle clutches (as far as i'm aware) are of the "wet" type, i don't think this would wear them unresonably quick, since this is basically "normal" downshifting executed a bit quicker than in day to day traffic. these clutches are designed to withstand a bit of slippage. if you screw up a rev-match it would cause more wear than this. still, i think it would be a good idea to learn both techniques and use them as you see fit. can't learn too much.
Is that Dead as your profile pic? Dead from Mayhem?
Manual blipping is so much fun. That’s why we do it😀
And for smoothness :)
Manual Blipping is fun on the road, but I think in a very high braking zone its simply too hard to both modulate the brakes at maximum brake force and blip the throttle at the same time. Thats why I did away with it at the track personally. I'd rather sacrifice some clutch life and use the engine braking to back the bike into the corner a bit almost like applying a bit of rear brake.
@@TH3G0ODGUY this. I would love to see all the people who love blipping do it under threshold braking. It’s simply not feasible. Yeah it’s cool when you’re coasting to a stop on the street I guess lol
I rev match on the street just for fun but at the track I use this process just out of instinct never had an issue but I try to never drop more than one gear at a time. Thanks for the videos I have a long off season so these get my head back in the game.
Likewise I usually blip on the street, but on the track there is so much going on getting to the corner that I find it easier to just let the clutch slip a bit on the downshift.
Whew, teaching this old dog a new trick will take some time, especially considering that I've been blipping the throttle since the early 90's. I even have trouble turning my brain off when riding a bike with a quick shifter. I've got to break through these barriers to improve!
Jamie I'm most definitely not saying "don't blip". If that's the technique you use and it works for you then continue to use it. This video is merely offering a viable alternative to those that chose not to go that route :)
I like this for upright braking zones since timed correctly you’re smoothly releasing the clutch lever at the top of the rev and mph range of the gear below. Being smooth and on time both on the gear switch and clutch reengagement and throttle roll on has yielded a very smooth feeing downshift engine braking combo that I love for a controlled “oh shit stop” where maintaining that proper equilibrium is necessary so as not to overload either wheel or suspension. Still love to throttle blip although on my current 2006 ninja 250 she doesn’t make the most spirited engine noises. Still love her and the community. Cheers to great content.
Do you brake then downshift or downshift then brake?
I blip, since it's easy and much fun to use, also gives that sound of the engine when it slows down.
it depends on which technique youre more comfortable with, for me, i can do blipping downshifts alot faster and safer than slipping.
ah well, with auto-blippers and slipper clutches on most bikes nowadays, nobody really needs to learn downshifts anyway.
and then, theres electric bikes, soon this will all just be a relic of the past.
iodineclip my 09 cbr1000rr has a slipper clutch but I still feel more smoother if i blip on the downshift, I've tried both methods and I still prefer to blip
Will it hurt to blip my auto blip motorcycle? I have a habit...
I enjoy blipping so much, It feels like you are connected to what the bike wants.
Great video and advice. Same with all your vids dude.
Your clutch is in an oil bath, you can slip it for quite some time until it becomes harmful... this technique is basically what every student will learn in his first riding lesson, including the fact that bike clutches are quite sturdy. How do those pros coast along in stop and go traffic if they never let the clutch slip a little... must be a bumpy ride in 1st gear with only gas on/off.
I will try this on track. Actually bleeping has been difficult for me on the track during the process of braking as all the force is pushing my body to the front so having to rev + front brake + dowshif + the force are to many variable. On slow braking curve can be achieve but on hard braking is difficult
Set your ass allready aside before you start breaking. This way you can hold you going forward with your leg. If there's tol much force on your arms, change technique and start working out.
I always blip the throttle when down shifting because that's what I am taught and used to but it would be fun to learn this technique.
That's not correct. Blipping works at any revs in any gear without a problem.
i instinctly am doing the same (on track). I can focus better on hard braking this way and bikes stays smoother
I’ve only been riding for like 2 months and this is how I do it ha. Can’t be arsed Rev matching. I like to be quick 🤓
Great! I've done this since I started trackdays and started to think I need to change and started blipping the throttle. I only use the front brakes and therefore I like the enginebraking that I get with not blipping the throttle at downshifts.
I think blipping is more worthwhile on certain bikes, like big twins or single cylinder bikes simply because they'll have a higher chance of slowing the rear wheel considerably with their higher level of engine braking. Outside of that though I personally don't think it's entirely necessary if you can perform a tidy slipping downshift.
this technique is not as lame as one might think.
I have a dry clutch and smaller bike. I tried this technique with reluctance but I have initial results. I would say I need more practice.
As our guy said, SPEED is the key.
For the track on the straights with the highest speed I just let the slipper clutch work how its designed, slower corner entries I blip the throttle. There's always that possibility you can be a little harsh blipping and downshifting and upset the bike which could cause a crash when braking from high speed.
I find for spirited riding especially on track leaving the throttle at a constant and downshifting helps to rev match & keeps the suspension more unsettled. Leaving a more stable turning chassis.
suspension more unsettled? how does that equate to more stable turning?
When you enter a corner you have a maximum available traction on each tyre. The rear tyre has slightly more traction; thats why the perfect balance in a corner is found by rolling on the throttle slightly throughout the turn to ensure a slight rearward balance.
If you have a snatchy throttle hand, uneven braking or jerky downshifts the bike will bounce forward and back on it's suspension varying the available grip with compression and rebound. Obviously the fastest way through a corner is to use the _maximum traction of each tyre the whole time_. If the suspension is bouncing forwards and backwards you can obviously only corner as fast as the traction allows _at the point of least traction,_ obviously after the rebound of either the forks or rear shock.
Smooth corner entry, and traversal allows faster corner speeds, that's quite standard in all forms of motorsport.
I think he meant more settled
This is also my preferred method, mastering your engagement point is crucial, which is easier I find with a hydraulic clutch.
I've found it natural to "clutch blend", I called it, but I am also lightly raising the rpms to match the difference, according to my need and what's needed for the curve. As a result the auditory difference between my gears is almost non-existent, and my transition, even in a curve, is smooth, not upsetting my bike. Granted, I'm not on a track, but I get to practice this a lot in my local canyons and mountains. I never blipped my manual transmission in my car when driving, focusing on smooth transitions and NOT a 4-step process for manually shifting, so it came naturally on my bike.
heel toe in a car is way harder then bliping on a bike for me anyways...
Thank you for sharing. I race minis and I don't even bother with the clutch once I'm rolling lol. I think it would be fun to slowing work my way back to big bikes on big tracks and the techniques I've learned here make a lot of sense for that translation.
The assist slipper clutch is designed to do that since its wet. Aswell as coasting too
I like to do a clutchless downshift when I get off the throttle and onto the brakes and then use the same technique as described here but quickly whilst you have some engine breaking
This technique is also useful while riding on mountains curve ( ghats ) .
I owned slipper clutch bike .. engine stress are lower ...
Happy riding
I much prefer blip down shifts. RSV4s sing beautifully on the revs so why not!
I manual blip when upshifting on corner exit and slip naturally on track and on street when down shifting in braking zones. Riders introduce unnecessary input to the front end when blipping, add this to hard braking at the end of a long straight or anywhere hard braking is occuring. Hard braking wirh right hand while blipping with right hand is a waste of focus, causes rider fatigue, causes bike to be less stable and is dangerous. Personally, i prefer to close the throttle completely then get on brakes almost imstantly after. I quickly and controled squeeeeeez front brakes to max braking. Next i immediately go down gears quickly as possible to the gear i want to use throight the corner using the clutch slip. Now, i have much more control of the bike and it it easier to ride faster through corners due to being stable. If i do back it in, having my fingers on the clutch can also leave me in a position to feather out of a situation where i loose traction on the rear due to engine braking induced slide or rear wheel hydro plane in the wet or similar type loss of rear wheel traction
This technique is new to me but will give it a try. Your explanation makes sense to me in that when I'm hard braking I totally understand my front wheel getting too much action while I'm blipping down especially when I blip and, to your point, I lose focus braking and my corner entry line. And I've been noticing sometimes I'm way too low in the revs at exit and that frustrates me. I have a 2010 Z1000 so I can beat her up a bit to learn the slip lol. Never been to a track so just talking mountain pass runs and I give her the beans.
I havent got much experience on track yet with hard breaking, but what you're saying sounds completely logical to me. I've tried downshifting with blipping a bit to experiment, but already immediately faced the problem of using thesame hand for blipping as well as braking. It just doesn't feel right. Slipping feels more natural, more controlled, and i've automaticly been doing it already even before i heard it being called slipping. 🤷♂️ Maybe with more track time i'll see the blipping technique benefits, but right now it's just a distraction and so I've put it on the bottom of my list.
Everyone his taste, but blipping makes the bike WAY more stable and calm going into the corner.
The thing with blipping is: keep braking.
And practise at low speeds first
I feel like this can work for 1 shift, but my local track has 2 hard braking zones after long straights that send me from 5th or 6th down to 2nd. How does this technique account for that? I just wind up chewing the hell out of my rear tire.
Thanks for this tip. I'm a novice rider and have been trying to improve downshifts with blipping for some time. I'm struggling to prevent the blips adding/reducing brake pressure - as such I'm looking forward to giving this technique a try.On a similar but unrelated topic.... I have just finished watching the 2004 Moto GP season. Throughout the season a camera was fitted to Rossi's bike showing us his clutch hand. I noticed he was doing something that I did not fully understand, I wonder if you can shed some light on in. As he approached a corner he would shift down through the gears releasing the clutch and blipping the throttle. On the final gear change he would hold the clutch in while he applied the steering input and then gradually/slowly release the clutch. The clutch was re-engaged just before he applied the throttle (somewhere near the apex). Basically the clutch was being released slowly between the turn in point and the apex (i.e. over several seconds). Was he doing this to reduce engine braking during the first part of the corner? If so, why?
That's what I'd assume too Len, that he was trying to cut down engine braking. I can only guess why though. Pretty sure 2004 was his first 4-stroke bike. It's entirely possible he was trying to create the same feeling of the 2-stroke, which used to have a lot less engine braking.
Actually I got it mixed up. He came from the V5 Honda after the 2003 season. It think that's probably still a good theory though. He wanted a more 'free wheeling' bike at corner entry. Would be interesting to see how that technique developed as he developed the bike.
He seemed to do it all season. I'll keep my eye out for other clutch cam shots. I would think the current control systems manage the engine braking sufficiently well that you don't need to do this.
If I ever find myself on a 1098 I'll give it a go!
Hi.... I had a similar problem as u did when I started track days. Under heavy braking, my blipping action wiggled (unstable brake press) the front end or in some cases rear wheel lock. My trackday mates adviced me to try the slipping technique but i failed. Like Keith Code said 'it takes up too much attention'. My muscle memory were already tuned for blipping when so I continued to try perfect it. I resorted to use of one finger (middle). Blipped the throttle as late as possible (just before tipping the bike) that way the revs are low & your wrist action is less. And therefore more stable front end. Not shooting down other methods just sharing my experience when I was unsure which route to take.....
Thanks Dan taking it to YT. Thanks everyone sharing
Thanks. Two solutions are better than none!
Have to give it a try. I usually over rev the blip method and the bike lurches forward.
me too. to much jerking.
This happens at first when you're learning. You only have to make a little bit of throttle and it also depends on the bike. Blipping rev matching is excellent when you wan to downshift quickly before hard acceleration for an overtake, for example.
How do you downshift multiple gears? Do you do all in one clutch or do this step for each shiftdown
you basically explained how i downshift, have done this instinctively without knowing its a "technique" since i learned riding nearly 20 years ago
I will try it.... i m pretty new at track riding but improving fast. Shiftng needs to improve alot before I will get faster. First 50 laps track day about 2 20 for 2.2 mile track w a quarter mile straught I can build up to 125 before turn 1. Today, once the tires warmed up I got loose and hit some 1 55 laps. Can i add a shift gear display on my 2006 cbr6004fi. I think that would coach me knowing the gear im in at any moment.
You’re doing it wrong.
Ya was doing that back n the day frfr
I also instinctively used this technique,i guess, it comes automatically when you get to know your bike well, mine is a non-abs small bike, so this technique is super important for me. Helped me around the corners when arriving at high speeds, downshifting in this way helps me reduce the speed, sometimes the rear tyre locks but for micro seconds, it's fun
Any properly executed shift that can be done efficiently will be ok for the bike. Ive used all, and use no clutch anymore mostly, but its just a matter of preference for me.
I ended up here bc of the shit springs in my Panigale and just tested the slipper method on my 14’ ZX10R, after 35 years I will never brake blip again. Such a simple concept and my stubbornness never allowed me to listen until I had shit springs.
I think I naturally adopted that technique years ago, I've never had a problem.
It’s funny, I always blipped while braking until I got a 23’ Panigale V4S which comes with fork springs that are way to soft. That’s when I noticed the pulsing; now this bike has auto blip but I didn’t want to come dependent on it. So now I am going to apply the slipper technique to my 14’ ZX10R and really see what’s up. The latter bike doesn’t seem to pulse much while braking and blipping simultaneously but we shall see the difference on the next ride.
the clutch is a running cost i think of it as oil is something u account for having to change if its going to put a bit of extra wear on then so what i ride off road aswell and on my bike my running costs are pistons oil tires chains clutch brakes some of these take a while to wear but there essientaly the same
Question is, how do you blip shift and turn in on the corner while on the front brakes?
Great video tutorial.i search for downshift track it went straight to your video.am now a subscriber 😀 btw if you can give some pointer to downshift from 6 th to 2nd on a long straight going into T1 tight corner would be much appreciated
Also interested in this, in fact asked essentially the same question (multiple downshifts).
Since I am NOT a racer...my Track Days are simply to keep my Street Skills fine-tuned. My biggest 'battle' sounds amateurish, I realize, but I don't have a gear indicator, and I don't always know if I am going from 5th to 3rd or 6th to 4th... )-; ... So I use a bit of 'slip' when I am not sure, to 'feel' the response as engagement begins. If the bike sort of lags, I need to go down one more. (-:
The mountain roads I Play on ( including the well-known "Tail of the Dragon" ) often have multiple curves that happen quickly and go uphill and downhill at a very 'random' manner ... unlike a Track where you repeat the same pattern with each lap. I have tried the "add-on" Indicators that use magnets on the foot shifter...but found them to be unreliable. And I have not found an electronic unit that fits with my bike.
But I always try to release the clutch in a smooth manner, rather than "dumping it"...much the same as 'squeezing' the brake rather than grabbing it... Don't 'shock' the friction patch of the tires...
Yeah I can understand that, Floyd. I imagine on those twisty roads your attention can get taken away from your gearing as you focus on everything else you need to.
my bike goes from 5th to 4th and from 6th to fifth... your bike seems to have an odd gearbox?? ;-)
I appreciate the humor.. (-;
But if I am entering a curve in 5th and braking hard, I am often going to want to Exit in THIRD... Cutting 30mph or more, then exiting uphill on the other side is going to need more than one gear drop... mountain roads are not just sharp turns, but also uphill and downhill...
For what it's worth I knew what you meant, Floyd 😋
I always think it's so weird how people can't keep track of their gears on the bike. My brother never counts his gears but he's still pretty fast. I dunno, just always seems odd. Since I first got on a kx65 when I was 9 years old I've been on it about what gear I'm in. Maybe I'm just picky lol
Can you plese cover what you do when dropping more than one gear? I use this method too but sometimes I feel like my braking is outspeeding my downshift and I feel like dropping more gears at once before re-engaging the clutch. It would be really interesting to know your opinion on this. Thank you for the video!
disengage for each downshift. don't drop multiple gears in a clutch lever pull or you'll find the bike isnt smooth
I do this all the time, both on and off-track, as I don't have a slipper clutch. Dumping the clutch when downshifting from high revs on my 990 SMR (big twin) would potentially lock up the rear.
My previous 690 Duke had a slipper clutch and I could ride more agressively on-track. I kinda' miss that feature on my 990.
looking forward to trying this technique.
Thank you for the insight!
Great videos, concise and honest tips that only can make you a better rider.
Can you downshift by more than 1 gear in one action of pulling clutch in? Or do you have to pull in and release the clutch for every gear you wish to go down to?
I built too much muscle memory with the manual blipping to go to the slipping technique. It takes me more brain power to feed the clutch smoothly than just blip and get the clutch done with, the slipper clutch helps too
I do both, if I'm coming too fast into a 90 degree turn and have to shift from 6th straight down to 2nd or 1st I'll slipp it, otherwise I blip it. In my car I exclusively use the slipping technique, never taught myself to rev match there.
I do blipping to impress co riders that i know how to do it but when im in a race mode in the twisty mountains for me the fastest tecnique i use is to hold on to the current gear im in then ride the bike and lean with it as far as the speed takes you to lean and when i exit the corner when I feel the need to downshift one gear down that's the time I do it quickly and with my technique i find the bike more stable no unnecessary movement whatsoever and Im fastest in my group. PS i do this in a mountain uphill and downhill paved road twisties.
This technique is a lot easier when your gears are closer together. On my 250 you only need to blip if you aren't braking. Otherwise constant throttle or a small decrease in revs is actually what you want.
Does it strain your engine more doing that ?it does work really well
Not really straining the engine, no. The biggest downside in terms of wear would be your clutch wearing a little more.
I'm a blipper and have never really thought about doing this; query the advantages?
Would u still recommend this technique with a big twin with no slipper clutch?
I am intermediate rider, i seem to come into tight corners fast for me and i start downshifting to enging brake (but usually end up in first gear while beginning to trail brake with front brake. My rear tire often skids I think because i shift a gear to low. At that point i either have to up shift or ride the corner at hight rpm and low speed. It also causes me to have throttle a bit open now to drive me through the turn.
Something doesnt feel right. I have an RC 51 Honda for 12 years now and still trying to get this right. With out a digital read of of what gear im in i often end up down shifting to first gear which is why my back tire will skid (in a straight line) while im hard on front brake. If i could just shift down to second gear i stead of first, i would have a much better turn. I give gas on exit, but very, very soon have to shift up because rpm very high and run out of my exit gear very quickly.
I know i could use some track lessons. I come from dirt biking as a kid and adult. Now on street i tend to trail brake with front hard and rear slightly. In dirt i dont think i ever use front brake very much at all because the front in dirt, always tuck my front tire. I always used rear brake in dirt, and on street the breaking is reversed, being 90 percent front and 10 percent back brake. Should i stop using rear brake on asphalt into corners? I wish i had a lcd read out of the gear im in.
Thanks
WTF you have an rc51.....i want one...such a cool bike
Question... Do you maintain throttle position the whole time?
Question... do you move over on your seat before breaking. Then turn in. Or break. Move across the seat then turn in. Thanks.
This absolutely makes sense to me...especially on a bike with no slipper clutch. However, I’ve never been able to master this coming into a 2nd gear corner from a high speed straight. I just dump it. 😱 This is why I’m not a pro racer, or even amateur LOL 🤷♂️
during "Slipping Technique", and no throttle blip, shall we roll off the throttle or release the throttle?
Often I will hold throttle steady and in almost a twitch speed pull clutch and downshift. The only noticeable change is slightly higher rpm. This was the easiest method I've learned.
Do some racers use this technique too?
I am really bad at downshifting at a downhill even if i slow down their is a bad noise in the gear assembly while i downshift would blip help?
Can you down shift from 6-5 gear to 3-2 gear at one time clutch in and out ore is it Every gear down in and out with the clutch handel ? Kawasaki z900 2019
What about when you need to downshift through multiple gears, are you doing this technique through each gear or are you pulling in clutch, downshift through the multiple gears and then release clutch per your technique?
Depends on the bike Brad. If it has a slipper clutch then multiple gears in one go is doable. Without one though the revs may drop off a little too much, meaning the re-engagement could get hairy. In that case a one by one approach might be better. Also depends on the the area of the track too and how much time you have too.
I had a scary moment when, at the end of a short straight, i shifted into 1st instead of 2nd and locked the rear. Luckily i cleared the bikes just behind me but i was about to shit myself quite badly.
I've been trying to blip a bit lately just round and about the streets and it's tricky when coming to a tight corner and dropping 2 or 3 gears I get myself in a muddle
Should be one gear at a time and give atleast 1/2 or 1 sec between gears, it's fun when coming to a corner from high speeds
@@PRO2358 thanks I'll try and do that, I should try and walk before i run
Do you need to let the throtle when doing this?
But I like the tail wag. Pull clutch, dump from 5th to 2nd, blip and drop clutch, let that rear fish tail.
Backing it in so much more fun, especially on Supermoto bikes.
I must be a one off because if it's dry I tend to blip while in the wet I blip at speed but use clutch slip when going down to 2nd or 1st depending on grip levels.
As far as mechanical issues all it's going to do is wear the clutch ever so slightly more. It really is a none issue. If you do one race start you will do more damage than a whole year of doing this.
Probably coming to this topic a few years later than everybody else by the sounds of it 🙂
As somebody who raced for many years and always blipped the throttle on downshifts without thinking there was a problem with this, I wondering what would be the advantage to this slipping technique?
I don't think the video gives a clear advantage......
Can you down shift more then one gear at the same time
do i down shift the same time as im breaking ?
How about using the slipping technique while keeping the throttle a smidgen open? I use this technique typically while downshifting before a downhill sharp corner. It makes the rev matching fase (the slipping) a little more smoother even.
Then you have less or no engine brake.
I hold the throttle on Whilst braking at the same time 3 fingers Front brake and rest of the hand controlling throttle . I never use rear brake only engine braking and front brakes. I some time s get the rear to back in a little which helps because the turn is already slightly made . It's probably my biggest strength braking. My weakness is definitely corner speed. I'm working on that now . It's weird for me cause I also go to the track in my V8 Commodore so one week it's heel toeing with my feet next week it's palm fingers with my hands on the bike lol
@Jesus H Christ
Haha i use to own a VN and it was auto and a station wagon actually a really good car that thing was
Just got a 2021 zx10r
I've never had a quick shifter or auto blipper on a bike. I went from a 06 fireblade to a 2021 ninja. I can down shift using the clutch and throttle by flipping my throttle wile down shifting but I can't seem to get it using the auto blipper on my ninja... One thing to note is I still have stock exhaust on my ninja and it's hard to hear my motor through my helmet. So I use the quick shifter but to down shift I resort the the old school way of clutch and blipping the throttle... Also the 2021 ninja has a chip controlled throttle that is EXTREMELY SENSITIVE. I'll will say this,,, I do not like the chip throttle.
I'm sure in time I'll get use to it. But there is a big difference between these to bikes controls.. Also I still have my cbr and ride it just as much as the ninja. I think it's just the sound of the aftermarket exhaust but I just prefer it over a stock. I find myself after about 30min of riding the ninja heading home to get my cbr. But maybe after the 600 mile break in, win I can ride it like I ride my cbr I'll start practising a little more with my Ninja.
There is no doubt it is a valid technique, but I don't think it wise for universal track application for anyone pondering that. For example, at our now closed local track, I established a 3 -2 downshift between two corners close together. It had to be done very fast, no way was 1/2 a second of time available for use. The example depicted in the video looked like a very valid application of the slipper method, keeping in mind it also eliminates a right hand motion as part of it (the blipping), said motion potentially being describeable as wasted motion, and therefore also inefficient.
I'd think that for a series of downshifts, because of the time duration, some throttle application would be needed to match rev the engine during a slip method re-engagement at the end.
Lastly, I tried a blip/slip method with my non slipper clutch bike and found that really smoothed the chassis out, especially when also hard on the front brake.
Being honest, I've never encountered a downshifting zone that required that many shifts in that length of time, if I've understood you correctly. I could do multiple shifts on my non-slipper 04 R6 quickly in a few areas (in hindsight I wish I included it here), but I've never felt like it would benefit me to do it even quicker than that. But yes, if the time isn't there and blipping helps then that's clearly the way to go in that instance.
Thanks for the reply and advice. My explanation was not as good as it should have been. It was a 3rd down to 2nd in between an almost chicane like right and left turn, the left being slower.
Sandy Sutherland explain how blipping the throttle is a wasted motion. Waste of what exactly
What are the pros and cons of slipping over blipping??
Slipping the clutch done right with enough entry speed and angle also helps "turn" the bike too!
Hi, just wondering if you keep your trottle off during the whole time of downshifting? Or do you slightly open a bit of trottle to rev matching?
Thanks.
Same question and very important point no one is talking about.
Open it while slipping the clutch to rev match.
I've always found it difficult to maintain constant front brake pressure and blip the throttle at the same time. Hopefully this technique helps! Thanks:)
Me too, but I found a technique, I do not know If it is proper, I need to discuss it with people who mastered it.
So...Hold the throttle tube and the brake (two fingers on the brake)
then try to twist your arm
If you understand what I mean by that, the result will be your thump (and the little finger) to be pressed against the throttle tube
then I found out it is easier to twist the wrist and blip the throttle while keeping the brake level pressure unchanged
it is important also to have relatively high rpm so the engine to be in its responsive band and small twists on the throttle to become substantial increase in RPMs fast.
Shit. I do this for my manual cars but never thought about it for my bike. I slipped it once going fast and let the clutch off too fast and made me back it in. Never tried that shit again. Seems to me it's better for high speed down shifts. I will try! Thanks!
i like bliping because it looks cool...lol...i think what ever is more comfortable is what you should do as long as the end result is not upsetting the bike going into the corner...
I have never heard of this tecnique before! I will try this next time
I used it its a little harder on the cutch but you will quickly start working the clutch quicker and next thing ya know you will be a blipping expert. Dont take to long.
Doesn't this stuff up the gearbox dogs by clashing them together with a bigger rev mismatch than if you blip? I'm not enough of a gearbox expert to be sure, but that sort of damage doesn't show up in the short term so you might not be aware of it until high mileage has passed.
I'm new to riding.
Why would you use this technique rather then blimping, and would you recommend this for Street riding?
Thanks
Hi Dave, on the track it just means your downshifts are simplier as it takes away the blip. With regards to street riding blipping is a little easier because you're not performing very hard braking from very high speed. Technically speaking it's better for the bike to blip, but I personally still wouldn't blip on the road. So really the decision is entirely up to you in my book.
My bike has a close ratio trans. Ninja 1000. The first method is the only one that will work. In normal riding conditions less than 500 rpm between gears. A 300 rpm blip is very difficult. If I just hold throttle, clutch, then downshift it's smooth as butter.
Are you braking as well?
I’m using this technique when I’m hard on the front break... I found it hard to revmatch with the throttle when braking hard at the same time! But; when I just need enginebreak into a turn I revmatch! So: I use both
I'm curious what the advantages are to this? If I can be hard on the brakes and still blip down into the right gear am I losing any speed as opposed to the slipping method as long as I end up in the right gear for the corner? I've heard riders much better than I suggest that even coming off a straight they will go down multiple gears and then slip it out but at the end of the day any of these methods would yield the same results as long as they don't somehow limit your ability to clamp down on the brakes, or am I missing something?
Tristan, there are still high level riders that blip the throttle. Shane Byrne in BSB was one of them, born from the days when blipping was more important. You don't see it as much now, but if you make it work and it's comfortable I wouldn't tell you to change.
Do pros use this technique?
I don't fully pull the clutch on down shifts, just enough to mostly disengage the clutch, then a slow release ;-)
Facts: blipping the throttle causes uneven braking. Which is more important than worrying about having to replace your $500 clutch at 35,000kms instead of at 45,000kms especially when your spending $500 on each track day in fees and tyres.
It isn't bad for the bike, it just wear out the clutch a bit faster because of the slipping. But as long you don't let slip the clutch really long in each gear changing progress the bike itself will be fine, because the oil in which the clutch itself is covered has enough time to cool down the clutch.
I tried blipping the last year or so with limited success. The best way for smooth downshifting is to hold my throttle at a constant point and downshift from there.
But then your rear tire is fighting your front tire going into the corner as slight throttle means the rear tire is trying to move forward. I guess you could compensate with rear brake, but then you're putting all kinds of stress everywhere on your bike. Just practice more and do it right.