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Subaru Legacy GT Whiteline Bushing Install goes HORRIBLY WRONG!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ส.ค. 2022
- The Legacy GT wagon build is back, but not without some challenges... In this week's video I install all new Whiteline Bushings in the spec B aluminum control arms and Energy Suspension Subframe bushings.
Use code WL3331 to save $20 off your first purchase of $150 at whitelineperformance.com
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#subaru #legacygt #whitelinebushings
Thanks for showing how hard this is. You now have a new subscriber. Also It took me almost a year to do my first engine pull to replace a clutch. I would work on it for 2-8 hours every few weeks.
Haha yeah, it’s definitely not for the faint of heart! Thanks for subscribing, appreciate the support
Excellent Tutorial on the bushings. Providing this type of insight will save viewers time who plans to install aftermarket bushing. Now on to the brakes. It is getting close to drive time!
Thanks, I think so too! So close to getting the brakes back on
now I know how hard it’s gonna be to do all my bushing I have left on the rear lol good work dude hope to see your legacy one day in person
Knowing is half the battle! Haha
@@avengednick where did you buy the rear trailing arms?
In tight spots where you need to cut some metal with precision, a Dremel (or other rotary tool) with cut-off disks works pretty well as long as you take your time and have a steady hand. For something like this, you'll go through a few of them.
Man, every time I get into a job like this, I quote Bruce Willis, "All you gotta do is [task at hand] How hard can that be, huh? Can't be that hard, no, can it?"
Also, "Why do I work on my own vehicles, again?"
Thanks for the recommendation! I’ll have to pick up some cut off disks for my dremel and see what it’s capable of.
And that’s the most relatable feeling! 😂
I replaced the diff stud bushings without removing the whole sub-frame off the car. You can use a hole-saw on a cordless drill to cut away the inner rubber from the old bushings. Then you can use a saber-saw to cut most of the steel collar that's left in, but don't cut all the way through. After that you can separate the blade of a heck saw and place it through the hole/collar, tighten the blade upside down back onto the handle and finish the cut by hand so you can be sure not to cut the sub-frame bushing housing. Hammer and a chisel to bend the now cut collar inwards and it will come off easy. Worst part in my case was doing all this with the car on jack stands as I don't have a garage, let alone a car lift. Good luck mate! =)
To the days where nothing goes right, but eventually gets there 🥂 Patiently waiting here
Cheers to that! Wagon rips coming soon
@@avengednick Just say when!
I don't like most of these poly bushings because they add 3/8" - 1/2" in overall length to the bushing. The OE bushing is flat/flush, but the poly ones all have a 1/4" lip/flange; altering the space needed to push the part in....uhgg...glad you fought through it. too bad liquid Nitrogen isn't more readily available. That would have been cool to see. 🤔 freeze the rubber to the point it is brittle and maybe even shrink it some to help it push out better. Really wish Subaru had plans to resurrect the Spec-B Legacy. Subaru needs a shot of performance adrenaline and sadly, the Solterra isn't going to save them
Yeah I found that out the hard way! Wrongfully assumed it would be the same measurements but got it done... And I would KILL for a modern day Spec B, but sadly Subaru seems to be losing it's touch on cool performance cars
That's awesome man, great work on the bushes. Those arms are so clean, should handle like it's on rails by the time it's back on the road
Thank you! I can’t wait to drive the car for the first time
@@avengednick I bet! How long do ya think it'll be before it's back on the road? I love these wagons so much. Just picked up a champagne white 07 one today. They're such a sleeper, like your plate.. even in stock form they haul ass
Don't worry mate you ain't the only one with a toast subframe, my wrx had both of the bolts where the steering rack goes shear right off, we tried to take it out but it seemed to have melded itself to the frame. Lots of money thrown at this car because of Subarus lack of steel in it's important bolts.
Oh damm! That's crazy... Appreciate the moral support!
What I have to look forward to! Just ordered my aluminum spec-b control arm set and will be doing all the bushings. Not sure about the subframe *knocks on wood*
At least you know what to expect now! The webs aren’t too bad with the right tools though. Good luck on the install!
Most of the bushings in the rear of my BL/BP are torn and separated so I'm in the process of replacing them. How have the Whiteline bushings held up over the year?
Mine isn't a daily driver, so I haven't put a ton of miles on it but it's been driven hard, including a track day and they've held up great. Whiteline makes super quality stuff!
Bro took a year off his life to get a 2% increase in chassis rigidity
Haha this one made me laugh. This was less about chassis rigidity and more to replace and upgrade worn out 20 year old parts.
I’m wondering the what the whiteline part numbers are for the rear control arms?
Are you on instagram? If so, shoot me a message @avengedmedia and I can send you the part diagrams from whiteline
i wonder if using like a 1-1/4 and 2-3/8 carbide hole saw would work better than drilling all the rubber. imho
That’s actually a super good idea, definitely worth trying! Wish I had thought if that at the time haha
One question! You didn't use grease to prevent squeaking? Or is it different on the whiteline parts!? Thanks!
I greased all the bushings as suggested by Whiteline, just didn't show all of it cause it was hard to grease and move the camera around with the grease on my hands
I am keep searching for how am I going to remove my front control arms bushing out.....special tools just way too expensive
Best option I’ve found is a bushing press kit, either using the cups in a press or with the threaded rod through the cups
Just wondering what the internal diameter of the centre tube is on the Energy Suspension subframe bushes is?
Just measured and it’s 16mm
@@avengednick legend, thank you
Where did we purchase the rear trailing arms?
I wouldn't recommend going through who I bought mine from, but check out jdmemergency.com I got my aluminum diff brace from him and I know he stocks full sets of trailing arms usually. He also offers vapor honing, which is rad!
It’s easy to see how the tabs on the rear sway bar fail. That looks like a poor design.
Right? I can’t believe the factory swag bars don’t bend it!
@@avengednick I think the stock end links are designed as the weak link.
Using air chisel
I definitely need to get one!
This is absolutely a horrible job. Make sure you are ready for the commitment because you will question your life choices in the middle of this.
Yup, you couldn’t have been more right. It was brutal!
Was it worrh it
Oh yeah, totally changed the car for the better! It handles amazing and feels new again
You are tenacious. This has to be one of the most frustrating car projects, but you don't give in!!!
You can say that again! I way underestimated this one haha
Let me get this straight your so much the car guy you didn't know to support the back side of stamped steel subframe or it's inherent weakness wow that's a total novice Newbee move .
I’m a car enthusiast with self taught mechanic skills, never claimed to be anything more. Between working a full time career, making content, and other commitments sometimes I’m tired in the garage and mistakes can be made. We all make mistakes, I choose to share mine so others can learn from my mistakes. Was it a stupid mistake, yeah. Pretty sure I said that verbatim in the video, so really not sure what you were trying to accomplish with this comment other than spreading negativity.