R50 pathfinder control arm replacement 4link suspension explanation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2024
- In this video I'm replacing the worn out rear control arms on my 99 nissan pathfinder. I also explain 4 link suspension design and how it works
Gearhead by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.fi...
License: creativecommons...
Facebook: lord of junk
Instagram: lord.of.junk
contact me at lordofjunk910@gmail.com
I don't think I've ever had more fun watching a how-to video. Rest in Peace Diablo
Now that’s what I’m talking about. Getting the R50 riding smoothly again.
I got the death wobble going and Just ordered my control arms today for my 03 pathfinder. Great video.
Did it fix it? Got the death wobble too
It sure did. drives great.
Hi, I have to say that yours is the best explanation of the link system I've seen, and the only video I could find that does this on a driveway rather then on a hoist. Thanks, I'll definitely subscribe!
While off-roading, I recently snapped both of my upper control arms (upper trailing arms) and experienced zero rotation stability of the rear axel from a rear perspective. It was to the point that the torsion of the drive shaft would shake the axel while under acceleration. This was a very helpful video to continue to understand what is going on.
I have a Gray 2000 Nissan Pathfinder with parts that I've had over 5 years! LMAO!! I'm just now getting to it and thats why I'm here :)
i seriously enjoyed this. Best auto how to video I've seen so far
just got a pathfinder 1997 se. Was stoked on it then on the drive home got the wobbles. Super scary on my new offroader. hopefully after this fix i'll be happy about my purchase
Good job man!! I have to do this in a few days when the parts get here and you have made my job a little easier.
Thank you so much! I start this project tomorrow and learned so much from your video
Fun and very informative video, gracias ! RIP Diablo
I'm in the middle of doing this job, using Nolathane bushings. Before the nuts are removed from the control arm bolts, use an impact wrench to spin the entire bolt/nut in the bushing to free the bolt and make it very easy to extract the bolt. I have a 1200 ft-lb impact and it did take about 3 minutes of impact to break them loose, but the bolts started spinning. After you have the bolt/nut spinning, then put a wrench on the opposite bolt head or nut to restrain it from spinning and loosen the nut or bolt. This method eliminates the need to pound/cut/torch the bushing bolt to get it out.
Yeah, what you said works great as long as the sleeve inside the bushing doesnt spin.
Quite true. I really was fortunate on this job, as all four sleeves were held in place by the remaining rubber bushings well enough that I was able to spin the bolts before removing the nuts. If the sleeves started spinning, I would probably try to jam them with a small metal chisel inserted between the bracket and the control arm. From my disassembly, it appears the bolts are not rusting, but since they have a rather heavy cadmium plating, are suffering from cadmium corrosion, which is a white powdery substance, that causes a bonding with the unplated sleeves. After a twenty mile test drive, the polyurethane bushings are stiffer, but superb in terms of rear stability.
I tried the chisel trick off camera. I threw the entire tool box at it. Haha. It seems things rust where I live worse than in other places. I only live 1.5 miles from the ocean. The salt air is rough on things. I have used poly bushings on other projects, and I agree they are superior. This truck is my worn out beater daily driver, so I opted to go the cheap route in this case.
Mr. N D "Nolathane" is a BRAND name for polyurethane bushings made in Australia. They were purchased through Amazon. Approximately $59 for the complete lower set. They are two-piece push-in by hand and after two weeks, I really like the slightly stiffer feel in the rear suspension.
Another fun one, thanks for the uploads!
Thank you so much for your video helps me a lot
thanks a ton for that tip About twisting the bushings!!
There is such a thing as an induction heater. It can be used to warm up any fasteners very quickly. And turn everything away quickly.
Great vid, thanks, Any advice on how to check your control arm condition? My Pathy behaves itself and doesn't really clunk or roll unless unless I hit a railroad crossing (this one in particular is in a dip on a slight angle) and I can feel the car roll and twist a bit. This is the first tallish SUV I've owned so not sure if that's normal or I should start investigating things.
Cheers
some body roll is normal if you hit certain dips a certain way. its just the nature of the suspension cycling. however, r50's are known for having control arm bushing issues. crawl underneath and visually inspect those bushings. if the rubber has cracks in it, its time for replacement.
Copy that then
What size bolts did you get to replace the cut ones? I’m currently doing mine and ran into the problem of them being seized up in there.
Bruh is the TRUTH RIGHT HERE.... I subbed and upvote keep on keeping on appreciate you.....
What if you plan to install a lift (OME HD front MD rear, approx 1.75" of lift)? You mention torqueing everything as if it was at ride height, but what if my ride height (i.e. the lift) is going to change in the near future? Should I account for this change in height? I would rather have the control arms done before I move on to a lifting the vehicle.
That is a fantastic question. And yes you should account for the ride height difference if you want your bushings to live a long happy life. I have a 4" subframe drop lift I will install at some point, and was going to go over that on that video. All you have to do is loosen all of the link bolts after you install the lift, and jump on the bumper like I did in the video. Or you can leave them loose and drive around the block, slowly. Whatever it takes for the bushings to find thier new sweet spot.
@@Lordofjunk have you installed the 4” SFD yet? Would love to see an install video as i plan to do the same very soon. Just in the process of wrangling all the parts together first.
I have not installed the 4" SFD. The kit I was going to get was a never installed kit from an old friend of mine. he was gonna get it for cheap. I got busy and I haven't followed up with him. Maybe he still has it. I'm really torn on whether I want to install it on this pathfinder because it has so many miles on it (312k). if I end up installing it, there for sure be video.
Hi, I need these control arms, my car has a wobble death instability but can't find replacements in Botswana. Please help
I’m about to tackle this job this afternoon on the ground. I hope I don’t need a sawzall.
Did the new arms come with new nuts and bolts too?
they did not. I used grade 8 bolts from the hardware store with lock nuts.
@@Lordofjunk Thanks, and thanks for the video. Still trying to decide whether I want to try this at home or take it to a mechanic.
Any tricks for replacing that track bar? I'm thinking I should replace that too while I'm down there.
EDIT: Actually maybe not. They're expensive.
Would I have faulty control arm bushings when my 2002 Nissan 4WD fishtails when I let off the gas pedal? It only happens while in rear-wheel drive(not in 4WD)
more than likely yes. crawl under there and look for cracked bushings.
Yup. I had the same problem. The rear control arms are the culprit. I’ve replaced them and the fishtail is gone, the death wobble is gone. Be careful about over torquing the nuts on these bolts. They need to be able to move a bit when going over bumps or you’ll get a hard ride.
Sorry I haven't read all the comments yet so idk if you answered this but how do you know that's ride height exactly? By extending the jack stands far as they can on the Differential & that will make it ride height? Mine are currently all lose waiting to be tightened. Thanks in advance
just eyeball it, get it somewhere close. it will be fine. as long as you dont tighten it at full droop, your bushings will have a nice happy life.
@Lord of junk Thanks for the quick response, you extended them all the way & it was enough? Do all jack stands extend to the same height? I feel like these aluminum Harbor freight ones I have don't extend as high as yours.
@Lord of junk Also I put new rear Gabriel Ultra shock absorbers, does it matter when I tighten those?
mine are harbor frieght also, but the steel ones. yours should be high enough unless you have oversized tires. just set the stands to where if you installed the tire, there would be like a 1/4 to 1/2 inch between the bittom of the tire and the concrete.
shocks do not matter
I wonder how much the parts and labor costs of this repair? Anyone knows? Please.
Where did you fineld new hex nuts and bolts? Doing the same project.
I just grabbed them from ace hardware. They are grade 8 standard bolts with lock nuts. Can't remember the size I used. I just picked up the standard bolts that were closest to the size of the metric ones I pulled out.
@@Lordofjunk good video btw. Thanks
Hey have you change out you lower ball joints ?
not on this particular vehicle, but I have done them before on others, yes.
Awesome Job.. I knew you near NC with that accent. I'm in Fayetteville. Not far from Cape fear either. Great video. I have a 91 pathfinder I'm going through completely.
Do these creak/squeak? I’ve had bad luck with anything but rubber makin noise
these do not creak. I've only had noise issue with the poly bushings.
Hey man do you have any tips for removing the upper arm on the drivers side? there’s hardly and clearance with the gas tank in the way I can barley fit a wrench on the head of the bolt! Any help is greatly appreciated!
Off the top of my head without looking at it, you have to take loose the plastic cover that covers your fuel fill pipe. Then you can get right to it. You shouldn't have to remove the entire cover, just the bottom part and move it out of the way.
Thanks. I got past the cover. Maybe it’s my compressor I just can’t seem to get the nut off. Might buy a new one and maybe I can just zip the nut off!
This was a good video
Where did you get the bolt that you had to cut and what size is it. I had to cut several bolts and can find the right size. Can you help???
Cant remember exactly what size it was. I do know I replaced it with a standard size, not metric. I matched them up at ace hardware. Make sure you get a grade 8 bolt and use some kind of locknut. I used nylock nuts.
Lord of junk thank you dude! I got half inch bolts grade8 at home depot but they have a little more play than the original bolts. Going to ace now since they were closed last night? And see if they have something closer to the original. Once again thanks!
On mine the but rusted up and so it’s tuck. It spins but no budge
I have a 02 pathfinder and I replaced the rear shocks but it still bottom out at times. Can you please let me know the cause and what needs to be replaced . Thank you sir
You mean the suspension bottoms out? Like it bounces off the bump stops?
@@Lordofjunk yes it bottoms out on bad roads and bumps.
Mine does it too if I hit a bump really hard. The only way to prevent this would be getting some sort of heavy duty shock.
@@Lordofjunk okay thank you for your help. I appreciate it.
What impact wrench is that? I can't get those nuts off with manual hand tools.
it's a matco gun I've had for years. couldn't tell you the model right off hand, but it is quiet and powerful.
Well, I had another go at it and I don't know if an impact wrench will do it. I tied one end of a ratchet strap to the tow bar, and the other to a braker bar, tightened it up real good and it didn't budge. Gave it a few wacks with a hammer too but no dice.
Might have to cut it.
Thanks for all the valuable information. Love your personality touch on your video. Adios Diablo, only 2 rounds against Mr. Bolts, lmao.
Thanks bro.
Hey, where in NC are you? Perhaps you'd like to replace mine.
I'm in Wilmington. problem is, I'm having enough problems getting my own stuff done lately. If you attempt it yourself, and would like some advice, email me at the address in the description. thanks for watching.
By the way Good job on the video!
Super
10:19 that's what she said
You need to learn not to strip the bolt treads by hammering it to get it out. This is not the way to do it and mess up the bolt. You lift or lower the car to line up the holes and then a piece of cake. Also you dont get pissed and throw parts down the yard etc. This shows poor control of character. And all those sketches make it look more difficult than it is. Not needed.
Bahahah get a load of this guy ^^
i liked the sketches. best explanation I've seen.