great video , had this exact issue and was about to buy a module after testing the lin circuit but once i connected it back it started working as normal !
I just bought a 2018 explorer. I noticed the left low beam stayed on after shutting the vehicle off... I found the lin wire was broken. And pulled out of the plug. I bought a new plug. Soldered and shrink wrapped the wires... I bought a $400 dollar scan tool to clear the codes. I get a code B14e5-08... what I didn't pay attention to was there are two ground wires. Do you think I have them mixed up? Or doesn't it matter? Or is there something else I should look for?... thanks.
I have a 2018 Explorer that has the pass side low beam out, but drivers side working and staying on after shut off. Both issues began at same time. Any ideas? Thanks.
Your video is interesting, in my case neither the DRL nor the low beam turn on, but the high beam, the turn signal and the side marker do work...what could it be? Or what can I check to get an idea? I would appreciate.
Good afternoon, Ive been dealing with the same issue however mine was self inflicted. I had to bypass the eyebrow lights to have them turned off when the engine was running. It was done by a local shop who installed switches to be able to manually turn on/off headlights. I have since removed the switches and wanted to return things to stock and now my lights are on all the time and shut off with the power after 15 minutes or so. I want to check the LIN wire and am not sure what I need to check the wiring at the connectors like you show. What do i need to be able to do the OHM test. I already have an electrical tester just not sure on what to plug into the connectors etc. Im trying to trace the yellow/purple wiring to find where the fault is.
Hey guys I'm hoping to figure out a way to run my signature lights on with the light switch in the auto position with the day time running lights disabled. 17 Limited . I just want to add that for some odd reason disabling DRL and setting the light to "auto", it completely disables both signature lighting and lowbeams during the day. TYIA
What are your thoughts on the driver's side low beam staying on dimly, and the passenger low beam flickering and barely visible. Unplugging the passenger headlight allows the driver's side to work correctly (no longer stays on) and be bright. If you try unplugging the driver's headlight and plugging in the passenger headlight, nether headlamp works.
@@letsgo4629 sorry I didnt get back to you sooner. It’s been a busy couple days. I wonder if you just have an issue in the passenger headlamp shorting the LIN from the BCM. Do the high beams work normally?
High beams still worked for me with broken Yellow LIN wire tight at the headlight plug harness. Repaired with new plug. Be carefull with wire colours some ssme colour. Looked at drivers side plug and found crscked wire and green corrosion starting.
Did this condition produce a check engine light? My 2017 Explorer has this condition with both headlights (L&R). My ODBII scan tool doesn’t pull any codes. I would like to try resetting the BCM code just to see if there was maybe a transient occurrence before I try digging into the harness. Besides, I’ll need to reset the code after any repairs anyway, right?
You wont get a check engine light over something like this. The engine light is reserved for Powertrain and emissions problems. I would think you should have codes in the BCM. A lot of code readers only communicate with the PCM so make sure the scanner your using will pull codes from the other modules. It’s not going to hurt anything to reset the BCM and yes, I would clear codes after it’s repaired.
@@CarShopTalk, my question is whether the BCM will continue to force “lights on” even when the cause is no longer present until the code is reset? If so, would the code eventually reset on its own? I recently had to replace the battery, and the Explorer was left with no battery in the vehicle until I was able to install the replacement. I still had the headlight problem afterwards, and I’m curious whether the BCM code could still have been present?
@@gogilmaper6557 I think the code would eventually reset on its own and normal operation would return if the problem is fixed. Usually if the lights stay on like the one in the video, it’s not that the bcm is commanding them on, it’s that there isn’t any communication between the bcm and the light. If there’s no communication and the light doesn’t know what to do it defaults to turning on, since that’s the safer of the possibilities, especially if it’s night time.
I haven’t fooled with this issue in a while because I’m having trouble discerning where on the harness to access the LIN wire at the BCM. I don’t want to tear into the harness just to probe for a Y/V wire while not even being sure whether I have the correct harness. Is there a spot to access the Y/V wire as it exits the BCM? Is the LIN fused perhaps?
Hey, I've same issue with my 2017 explorer. The electrician told me that I have to replace the hole headlight to solve the issue and I feel it's not logical. Could it be an issue with LED control module??
It could be, and that doesn’t come with the headlight assembly, it’s a separate part. And Ford’s diagnostic manual is written incorrectly for this. It doesn’t even mention or check wiring as a possibility. I think it does instruct you to replace the headlight if you follow the book.
By both you mean right and left, not high beam and low beam I’m assuming? The LIN / network circuit is probably open before the splice where it splits off for right and left.
It’s a combination of things. Smaller and smaller wires with cheaper insulation and more corrosive chemicals used on the roads during the winter. I think it’s more common now than when I made that a year or two ago.
Hey I've got a similar issue. My 2018 Ford explorer was defaulting to having the left headlight stay on and now it's completely off. Any ideas why that might be?
The headlight defaults to being on if it loses communication. The only way for it to be off all the time would be for a bulb to burn out, a loss of power or ground, or the module itself to fail.
Would like to know why a check engine light would stay on since an accident Ford collision center repaired and the light occasionally goes out, but comes back after a day or do on a Ford Fusion hybrid 2011
Usually a check engine light after a collision is a vacuum leak or a broken connector. Some kind of related damage. If only the head light was broken I can’t really think of anything that could throw on a check engine light. Get codes pulled on it and that should point you in the right direction.
@Shop Talk the codes say oxygen sensor, but auto zone says to replace both, so I'm suspicious and when it goes out from time to time it sure seems like a connector! Too often Ford wants a $160 diagnostic test to find something! That's crazy! They said that about a door window regulator! That don't need a diagnostic test!
Is it an oxygen sensor code, like a oxygen sensor heater circuit? Or just an oxygen sensor lean code like P0172? If it’s a lean code I’d probably be thinking a vacuum leak, not an oxygen sensor. If it’s an oxygen sensor heater circuit code, assuming they have power, its probably an oxygen sensor. If it’s a lean code I’d want to look at pid data, like long fuel trim. If its high at idle, like 12% or higher and drops when you rev it up its a vacuum leak, not an oxygen sensor. It’s not uncommon for plastic vacuum lines or intercooler tubes to get damaged in light hits. Occasionally you also see wiring get pinched or damaged.
If the light goes out from time to time for a few start-ups and then is back on for months I'm not going to get the 2 oxygen sensors replaced and find it was just a connector! I see no difference in my gas milage! Always around 34mpg!
As long as I live in Florida we don't have vehicle inspections since the 80's but if I move to New Jersey they do and won't allow it on the road with a CEL on!
Excellent quality teaching here!! So informative!! Highly recommended!! Thank You!!
Thanks!
great video , had this exact issue and was about to buy a module after testing the lin circuit but once i connected it back it started working as normal !
It must have had a bad connection or reset the module.
I just bought a 2018 explorer. I noticed the left low beam stayed on after shutting the vehicle off... I found the lin wire was broken. And pulled out of the plug. I bought a new plug. Soldered and shrink wrapped the wires... I bought a $400 dollar scan tool to clear the codes. I get a code B14e5-08... what I didn't pay attention to was there are two ground wires. Do you think I have them mixed up? Or doesn't it matter? Or is there something else I should look for?... thanks.
I have a 2018 Explorer that has the pass side low beam out, but drivers side working and staying on after shut off. Both issues began at same time. Any ideas? Thanks.
Your video is interesting, in my case neither the DRL nor the low beam turn on, but the high beam, the turn signal and the side marker do work...what could it be? Or what can I check to get an idea? I would appreciate.
I’d have to look at a wiring book, but I’d wonder if you have a blown fuse or broken wire.
Good afternoon, Ive been dealing with the same issue however mine was self inflicted. I had to bypass the eyebrow lights to have them turned off when the engine was running. It was done by a local shop who installed switches to be able to manually turn on/off headlights. I have since removed the switches and wanted to return things to stock and now my lights are on all the time and shut off with the power after 15 minutes or so. I want to check the LIN wire and am not sure what I need to check the wiring at the connectors like you show. What do i need to be able to do the OHM test. I already have an electrical tester just not sure on what to plug into the connectors etc. Im trying to trace the yellow/purple wiring to find where the fault is.
Just a digital volt ohm meter /DVOM.
@@CarShopTalk ok. what are the probes that were used for the connector?
@@xcalibrevideo893 they’re just pins from electrical connectors I’ve collected over the years. I think you can buy kits on Amazon as well
Hey guys I'm hoping to figure out a way to run my signature lights on with the light switch in the auto position with the day time running lights disabled. 17 Limited . I just want to add that for some odd reason disabling DRL and setting the light to "auto", it completely disables both signature lighting and lowbeams during the day. TYIA
What are your thoughts on the driver's side low beam staying on dimly, and the passenger low beam flickering and barely visible. Unplugging the passenger headlight allows the driver's side to work correctly (no longer stays on) and be bright. If you try unplugging the driver's headlight and plugging in the passenger headlight, nether headlamp works.
What’s it on? Year, model? Off the top of my head, ground issue possibly.
@@CarShopTalk 2017 Explorer 3.7L
@@letsgo4629 sorry I didnt get back to you sooner. It’s been a busy couple days. I wonder if you just have an issue in the passenger headlamp shorting the LIN from the BCM. Do the high beams work normally?
High beams still worked for me with broken Yellow LIN wire tight at the headlight plug harness. Repaired with new plug. Be carefull with wire colours some ssme colour. Looked at drivers side plug and found crscked wire and green corrosion starting.
Did this condition produce a check engine light?
My 2017 Explorer has this condition with both headlights (L&R). My ODBII scan tool doesn’t pull any codes. I would like to try resetting the BCM code just to see if there was maybe a transient occurrence before I try digging into the harness. Besides, I’ll need to reset the code after any repairs anyway, right?
You wont get a check engine light over something like this. The engine light is reserved for Powertrain and emissions problems. I would think you should have codes in the BCM. A lot of code readers only communicate with the PCM so make sure the scanner your using will pull codes from the other modules. It’s not going to hurt anything to reset the BCM and yes, I would clear codes after it’s repaired.
@@CarShopTalk, my question is whether the BCM will continue to force “lights on” even when the cause is no longer present until the code is reset? If so, would the code eventually reset on its own?
I recently had to replace the battery, and the Explorer was left with no battery in the vehicle until I was able to install the replacement. I still had the headlight problem afterwards, and I’m curious whether the BCM code could still have been present?
@@gogilmaper6557 I think the code would eventually reset on its own and normal operation would return if the problem is fixed. Usually if the lights stay on like the one in the video, it’s not that the bcm is commanding them on, it’s that there isn’t any communication between the bcm and the light. If there’s no communication and the light doesn’t know what to do it defaults to turning on, since that’s the safer of the possibilities, especially if it’s night time.
I haven’t fooled with this issue in a while because I’m having trouble discerning where on the harness to access the LIN wire at the BCM. I don’t want to tear into the harness just to probe for a Y/V wire while not even being sure whether I have the correct harness.
Is there a spot to access the Y/V wire as it exits the BCM? Is the LIN fused perhaps?
Hey, I've same issue with my 2017 explorer. The electrician told me that I have to replace the hole headlight to solve the issue and I feel it's not logical.
Could it be an issue with LED control module??
It could be, and that doesn’t come with the headlight assembly, it’s a separate part. And Ford’s diagnostic manual is written incorrectly for this. It doesn’t even mention or check wiring as a possibility. I think it does instruct you to replace the headlight if you follow the book.
Whats your opinion on both headlights not turning off?
By both you mean right and left, not high beam and low beam I’m assuming? The LIN / network circuit is probably open before the splice where it splits off for right and left.
great job, odd that 2018 had corroded wire. i see this issue on explorer forums. common problem...
It’s a combination of things. Smaller and smaller wires with cheaper insulation and more corrosive chemicals used on the roads during the winter. I think it’s more common now than when I made that a year or two ago.
Hey I've got a similar issue. My 2018 Ford explorer was defaulting to having the left headlight stay on and now it's completely off. Any ideas why that might be?
The headlight defaults to being on if it loses communication. The only way for it to be off all the time would be for a bulb to burn out, a loss of power or ground, or the module itself to fail.
So what is happening now is that the low headlamp flickers slightly, then shuts off. There are no issues with the right headlamp.
@@sparky1026 It sounds like a loose power connection, loose ground or an issue with the control module itself.
Okay does the LED in the assembly fail often?
@@sparky1026 no, they don’t. It’s rare.
Would like to know why a check engine light would stay on since an accident Ford collision center repaired and the light occasionally goes out, but comes back after a day or do on a Ford Fusion hybrid 2011
Usually a check engine light after a collision is a vacuum leak or a broken connector. Some kind of related damage. If only the head light was broken I can’t really think of anything that could throw on a check engine light. Get codes pulled on it and that should point you in the right direction.
@Shop Talk the codes say oxygen sensor, but auto zone says to replace both, so I'm suspicious and when it goes out from time to time it sure seems like a connector! Too often Ford wants a $160 diagnostic test to find something! That's crazy! They said that about a door window regulator! That don't need a diagnostic test!
Is it an oxygen sensor code, like a oxygen sensor heater circuit? Or just an oxygen sensor lean code like P0172? If it’s a lean code I’d probably be thinking a vacuum leak, not an oxygen sensor. If it’s an oxygen sensor heater circuit code, assuming they have power, its probably an oxygen sensor. If it’s a lean code I’d want to look at pid data, like long fuel trim. If its high at idle, like 12% or higher and drops when you rev it up its a vacuum leak, not an oxygen sensor. It’s not uncommon for plastic vacuum lines or intercooler tubes to get damaged in light hits. Occasionally you also see wiring get pinched or damaged.
If the light goes out from time to time for a few start-ups and then is back on for months I'm not going to get the 2 oxygen sensors replaced and find it was just a connector! I see no difference in my gas milage! Always around 34mpg!
As long as I live in Florida we don't have vehicle inspections since the 80's but if I move to New Jersey they do and won't allow it on the road with a CEL on!