What if your switches are not parallel to the face board what if they are on an angle. Will it work the same way but just a different Ben in the direction of the wire?
Hello! Great question. Yes, some of my switches are not parallel to the face board. So I chose to angle the wood rod a bit. Or I could have used a bell crank lever of some kind near the switch, but the angled rods seem to work just fine.
Hi. this what I use for remote motors or manual. I recommend though drill the hole to drop some brass tube in with a bit of glue? not tight to allow for a bit of play. Also if you leave the piano wire straight below you can use ... for example, O gauge chassis spacers and just cross drill the ends to make the crank? Or if you have a lathe just make some? this makes the throw and position adjustable. Also you can make a little hook as a guide to mark for drilling. If you put tape on a pair of taper pliers, all your hooks will be the same. Hope that helps? This technique is also really good if you have a deep base board, with foam on the top for example and you don't want to dig holes in it and bury the point motors.
Very nice addition to your original video. Would not have thought about using the rivet collar. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Larry!
What if your switches are not parallel to the face board what if they are on an angle. Will it work the same way but just a different Ben in the direction of the wire?
Hello! Great question. Yes, some of my switches are not parallel to the face board. So I chose to angle the wood rod a bit. Or I could have used a bell crank lever of some kind near the switch, but the angled rods seem to work just fine.
Loving the physics explanation…
Wow, you make it sound fancy! 😁 Thanks, Raymond!
Nice info, thanks for sharing. Dave
Thanks Dave! I finished up remoting all of Conklin Yard last night-- 7 switches. Now only 13 to go! :)
Hi. this what I use for remote motors or manual. I recommend though drill the hole to drop some brass tube in with a bit of glue? not tight to allow for a bit of play. Also if you leave the piano wire straight below you can use ... for example, O gauge chassis spacers and just cross drill the ends to make the crank? Or if you have a lathe just make some? this makes the throw and position adjustable. Also you can make a little hook as a guide to mark for drilling. If you put tape on a pair of taper pliers, all your hooks will be the same. Hope that helps? This technique is also really good if you have a deep base board, with foam on the top for example and you don't want to dig holes in it and bury the point motors.
Great ideas. Thanks!
Excellent update, thank you, spit out my coffee at the end, but I always have more on hand.
Hah! Thanks Brian! Sorry about the coffee stains... ;)
THANK YOU...for sharing. Nice update. I have a pair of those rail nippers too, not meant for heavy wires. LOL
Yup... I had to learn the hard way! :)
@@StanFerris Me too.
Very original idea - thank you for sharing and explaining this so clearly!
You are most welcome! Thanks for commenting!