You remove the wheel, slide the fork between 2 parts and break it loose its pretty straight forward and a simple job. If you are having issues, use pb blaster and let it sit overnight
Mine was a huge fail all around... snapped the pinch bolt, got that straightened out, then couldn't get the ball joint out of the knuckle. I'm going to order a new knuckle, I've tried everything. Everything else went great, inner outer tie rods, sway link, wheel hubs. No more ball joints for me lol
MrSubaru1387; your videos are awesome, and thanks for the reply! I need air tools lol. This ball joint is probably factory, @180k miles. I have a new knuckle on the way, it just wasn't worth anymore of my time to be honest. Your videos have helped me a lot on my repairs and I'm glad you make them!
Was not planning to do a ball joint today Started to get some noise and I had them on the Shelf. Thank God I got mr. Subaru to refresh my memory. Thanks. Mr. Subaru for all you do.
Did this in about an hour and a half no issues thank goodness just some trouble taking the thing out of the control arm but after a few blows it budged haha. Thanks Mr.Subaru and my uncle that is worth more than his weight in gold to me 🙏🏽
i watched like 3 subaru ball joint videos and was thinking i would have trouble doing this to my 01 legacy but honestly that pry bar technique is SO smart it looks as easy as a tire rotation so glad i found this video all the others were very complicated procedures
doing both front lower ball joints, front rotors, and all around brake pads this Saturday hoping to finally remove the shake when braking have had it aligned wheels balanced new tires new tie rod finally earned up some more money and now it's onto ball joint and rotors. Gonna be a fun weekend project getting her running right again
Jonah Cottrell how did your repair come out? I have a bad ball joint as well as shaking under braking, did your shaking go away after replacing the balljoint ?
This week I had my 2003 Outback, 2.4 4 Cyl. checked at my local Subaru dealer for the airbag recall. I was told by the tech I needed a front left ball joint for $290 + Tax. I bought one at my local Advanced Auto online for $39.37 with the 25% off coupon. You saved me over $250 on this one job. I’m doing both sides plus rear brakes (rotors and pads) for under $200. Thank you!!!
For anyone having issues with putting the ball joint back into the control arm, I ended up removing the bolt that attaches the sway bar to the end link which allowed me extra play in pushing down the control arm and slipping in the bolt portion of the ball joint. Hope this helps. Great video!
I removed the end link and i got a 6ft pry bar and had my dad stand on it and i still could not get it down enough... i have stiff aftermarket poly bushings in my control arm which i think is why im having such a hard time
Honestly man, thank you for existing!! I bought a 2004 subaru outback cause ive been wanting one. And I love working on my own cars, every time i search up a how to video you have one almost the exact car and that gives me so much confidence going into a project! Thank you so much, youve helped me tremendously.
I just replaced my struts and axels on my 2000 outback sport yesterday afternoon, ball joints next, great videos. Thank you for showing us how it’s done, quick and easy
Video leaves out the most important part - you must remove the steering stabilizer from its attachment point on the lower control arm. If you fail to do this, the two arms push against each other and you'll never get the ball joint out of either piece.
Took a 4ft pry bar but got my 08 legacy ball joint out doing it this way. I’m in Canada so I feel like I had a bit more corrosion to deal with as they love to load the roads with salt. Thanks for the video! Helped a bunch! You rock. ( also used some heat )
Just did this job, Living in New England, you will most likely not give a gentle push with a Pry bar to remove old ball joint. Had to Keep the old castle nut on the old ball joint, remove pinch bolt. Next place a pipe on the end of the control arm, near ball joint. Slam away with a 5lb sledge. Also, the control arm is most likely pushing up, and strut is pushing down. Not sure why in this video, it looked like the control arm was flapping in the wind? either remove sway bar end link, or strut bolts. mark the top bolt location first. It is eccentric shaped, and sets your alignment. then it's easy. Lastly, try not to let the hub swing out too far, it will disengage the axle shaft from trans. Don't worry if you do, you'll have to wiggle it around, turning the hub, and get the splines to align for it to pop back in. Otherwise, good video. I replaced mine for about 14 bucks. Good Luck
You are a Godsend my dear friend. I bought my 99 Outback last April and was worried I couldn't find a decent tutorial for this.. I thought my ball joints were pressed in but this looks easy! Thanks you so much for the confidence and motivation!
Excellent and fun vid! But please dont let the rust belt cars and the magnitude of this job shown in some of these TH-cam vids keep you from doing this job yourself. I'm in the southwest and just finished replacing both control arms with ball-joints on my 2006 Outback. Soaked the 14mm pinch bolt in penetrating oil first, and then leveraged the control arm against the steering knuckle just like the OP showed. Literally no real hurking at all...The joints almost fell out. Total time to remove and replace the second control arm was 1/2 hour. I feel sorry for those who broke the pinch bolt, but if you don't have a department of transportation that insists on salting roads, you'll most likely be fine and only out the cost of the joint (or control arm). Good Luck!
AC Delco makes a awesome quality greaseable ball joint for subaru. I've used them on my 02 forester. I have changed many balljoints on subarus and these are the best.
Good Info as always ... not that it is a big deal but would be nice to have the pinch bolt part number ... if you just went to hardware store and got a flanged nut and bolt instead and added washers ... anywho ... I have a failed one that is making my steering all sorts of fun when you can turn via pressing the gas ... or lifting off the gas ... I am replacing both left and right joints as if one failed I sure the other part on the other side is not far behind so saving myself the time and just doing both
Just did the left side, took my time. Had to throw the ball joint in the fridge fir a half hour or so to pop it into the knuckle. Did the one tool at a time walk to the garage 😅
Just did mine on my 2013 Outback here in the rust belt. Nothing worked, pb blaster, torch, air chisel, hammering for days on a board down against the control arm. What finally did it, I jacked up the control arm so it was levelish with the ground, shoved an old pipe wrench that just fit in between the knuckle and control arm then lowered it. When the arm came down, the part where the pinch bolt goes in lessens the space between it and the control arm causing it to squeeze down on the pipe wrench into the control arm which was enough force to pop out the ball joint.
I enjoyed the video, I do however wonder if sometimes there's a bit of editing. Like the Producer Beat the Living hell out of a bolt, then trimmed the video to where they gently tap the bolt with a pencil eraser, and it just pops right out? Anyhow, when I did a lower ball joint on a Subaru Years ago, the old pinch bolt was so rusted it simply snapped. I had to grind it flat, Drill a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the 10mm bolt that i would have to purchase.... that's a bit of drilling, but it can be done. I just never seem to have the cars where I gently pry, nor have I had any luck tapping with Pencil erasers!
Great video, I wish I watched your video before I did the ball joint and bushings on my Forester SH. It took me 2 days to do both sides as rust got the best of me. I put the cleaned corroded pinch bolts back in and it was a mistake. It still rattled. Ordered new pinch bolts hopefully it will resolve the issue. Otherwise I have to get your type of pinch bolts. The bolts I had looked different, screw in from one side only.
The factory bolts screw from one side. The one in the video showing a nut and bolt was a repair from drilling out a snapped off pinch bolt. Drill the hole oversized then add a grade 10 bolt, nut, and washers. The spindle even cracked on this one due to the bolt extractor. So, if you'll look, I had to weld and reshape the end of the spindle as well.
Great video. Many thanks! My only question is how did you get the lower control arm back on so easily? lol I had the new joint in after 15 minutes and have been 45 trying to get it back on!
Made it look easy, but it would have been nice had you explain what you're doing and mentioning the sizes of sockets. I have to keep looking now to find that info.
Once again, MrSubaru making it look so easy. I gotta do this to one of my front ball joints as well. Hey, do you know if the 1st gen Foresters need grease through fittings anywhere in the front/rear suspension components? I couldn’t find any grease fittings on my car. Thanks again for another great video! 👍🏻
+Lensmanic Feleven this was the driver side. camera died half way through filming. From 3:50 on it was the passenger side. The lower ball joint was rusted into the spindle on that side. Was a difficulty to say the least.
Anyone had any experience with "555" brand ball joints? They're supposed to manufacture parts for Suzuki and Subaru. It stands for "Three Fives" a subsidiary of Japanese company Gohsyu Forge Co., Ltd which was founded in 1960 as Sankei Industry Co., Ltd and 2 years later registered it's own trademark as "555". They have the ISO 9001 quality certificate for their spare parts and manufacture suspension and steering components. I'm just hoping they're good.
Thanks again for excellent vid @mrsubaru ... I'm almost at end of my tether with my brake shake. All calipers free and unaeized with new seals. Hubs done as they started droning. 3rd set of discs now. Rear control arm bushes done. Could worn ball joint also cause disc judder (on 700 miles since new discs now and judder seems to be coming back)
I know you are pretty quick to respond. And your advice has saved my ass already. I'm at a loss right now. It sounds like there is a rock in my rotor. Not a constand grinding. But is almost like a tick. I took my wheel off and there is a lot of play in the hub itself. It moves up and down. (Like forwards and backwards when I move it at 12 and 6. When I got serviced before the technician stated that there was some play and it was my ball joint. But personally i cant find any material that is evidence to back up his claim. The noise sure. But a ball joint causing movement in the rotor? Not so sure. It was dark and is dark now so I couldnt get a proper look. The only thing that seemed to move was the cv axle. That moved towards the engine and towards the wheel. But the rotor didnt move with it. What am I missing! I don't have a press so the bearings would be a capital B. Tia!
Apologize for asking so much questions. I just couldn't find an answer on the forums. I want to do this correctly and this is my first time. Can I just get any kind of sandpaper to sand the inside housing where the Ball joint goes? And when I put grease inside the housing. What kind of grease do I use? Thanks.
I noticed the new ball joint there had no rings on the boot to hold it and the grease in place, is that missing parts or is this a design that doesnt need the clamps?
😂 almost every pinch bolt snaps here and I have to drill out and nut and bolt the new ball joint in. Wish they would just back out nicely like in the video lol
Wow. This is how the job gets done when you’re dreaming about it the night before. For most folks the reality involves banging the crap out of multiple rust welded things with a sledgehammer for a couple hours. And that’s if it goes well.
+Bigshows93 alignment is always a good idea after any suspension work. I do seriously doubt that replacing only ball joints would negatively effect the alignment though.
The castle nut came off of the bolt for the ball joint since it's all rusted out so it can't hold it in place not sure how to hold it there so that I can pry the ball joint out :(
I'm gonna attempt this today... Been soaking my rust belt fozzy ball joints in pb blaster for a week. I have no power tools... I'm gonna yeet it with pry bars...
Hi Mr Subaru, UK guy here, how will I know if the ball joints are breaking down on my SH forester. Do they make a slight clunking noise when driving over uneven surface or a different noise. Please advise as you are a god with the Subaru brand. P.s. do you admire the offroad scene with the Subaru brand or are you a impresario sti kinda guy, intrigued to know ???
Easiest way to check ball joints. Lift and support the front of the car on jackstands. Prybar between the bottom of the spindle, top of the lower control arm. Flex the prybar up and down slightly. The bar should bow and no movement seen in the ball joint. If you see movement up and down in the joint, replace it.
Hi great video, did you put your jack stand somewhere special, it seems like you can move your components pretty freely, my experience was not great. I have a 2000 OBS. It’s looking pretty similar to the outback underneath
As always love your videos!! I have done this job before but this time the ball joint is stuck... I have tried pickle fork for an hour and a ball joint separator. Sprayed it with penetrene, and lifted it with a trolley jack while using a pickle fork but cant seperate it. Any suggestions?
This ball joint looks identical to the one in my Sambar...any chance you could confirm that? I think it would make this about the 6th or 7th times I've referenced your videos over this little truck! Lol
Look for torn rubber around the joint, grab the wheel with car jacked up and rock it back and forth top to bottom and side to side, if you see movement in the joint, it's bad.
I. am wondering if this is the cause of my suspensions woes. The car seems to not ride well over potholes, just doesn't seem to absorb the bumps well - only way I can describe it. I just replaced the tie rods and it seems to be a bit better but I wonder if this is the cause? The struts seem to be ok with no float at high speeds. I know it's a bloody tractor (Subaru) but I recall it riding better.
Curious if this will be as simple for a 2008 subaru forester? I have to change out the ball bearings and the lower bushings on both sides and was curious if there are any extra things to pay attention to. I'm fairly new to this stuff.
MrSubaru1387 I got the ball joints out no problem, but I can’t get the new versions into the pinch bolt area? I thought maybe it was my new parts, but I tried to slide the old one back in just to compare, and they’re too tight also? It’s a 2004 Forester XT. Do I need a press?
Did you drill out your pinch bolts on one side? Looks like the bolt goes through to a nut. Did you happen to record the drilling process? I'm wondering if you need to remove the knuckle, or if it can be drilled while still attached to the strut
Did you have to find a different pinch bolt that has a flat sleeve so the ball joint doesnt ride on the threads? or any bolt worked for you? BTW love your videos!
+Walter Elkin I drilled the hole larger all the way through and found a grade 10 bolt that was tight in that hole. Lock washer at the head of the bolt and at the end with a nut. Held for 1.5 yrs before I replaced the spindle with a rust free junkyard unit when my wheel bearing died.
You made this look like the easiest ball joint video ever
+Dalton Bertrand hopefully it will go as smoothly for you.
You remove the wheel, slide the fork between 2 parts and break it loose its pretty straight forward and a simple job. If you are having issues, use pb blaster and let it sit overnight
Mine was a huge fail all around... snapped the pinch bolt, got that straightened out, then couldn't get the ball joint out of the knuckle. I'm going to order a new knuckle, I've tried everything. Everything else went great, inner outer tie rods, sway link, wheel hubs. No more ball joints for me lol
I've had to torch, PB Blast, and air hammer/chisel them out of the spindle before.
MrSubaru1387; your videos are awesome, and thanks for the reply! I need air tools lol. This ball joint is probably factory, @180k miles. I have a new knuckle on the way, it just wasn't worth anymore of my time to be honest. Your videos have helped me a lot on my repairs and I'm glad you make them!
What would we Subaru owners do without you. I need to do this as well on my ‘01 Forester. Thanks again for another great video 👍🏻
You're welcome! Hope you get it repaired asap.
Great Job! I like this video, straight to the point. No showoff, excess talking or ads.
Was not planning to do a ball joint today Started to get some noise and I had them on the Shelf. Thank God I got mr. Subaru to refresh my memory. Thanks. Mr. Subaru for all you do.
Good video. The lack of verbal dialog and using captions makes it much more easy to understand.
Did this in about an hour and a half no issues thank goodness just some trouble taking the thing out of the control arm but after a few blows it budged haha. Thanks Mr.Subaru and my uncle that is worth more than his weight in gold to me 🙏🏽
I watch the no commentary subaru repair videos to help me fall asleep, somehow so relaxing
i watched like 3 subaru ball joint videos and was thinking i would have trouble doing this to my 01 legacy but honestly that pry bar technique is SO smart it looks as easy as a tire rotation so glad i found this video all the others were very complicated procedures
+MonkeyBoyShit glad to help!
doing both front lower ball joints, front rotors, and all around brake pads this Saturday hoping to finally remove the shake when braking have had it aligned wheels balanced new tires new tie rod finally earned up some more money and now it's onto ball joint and rotors. Gonna be a fun weekend project getting her running right again
Jonah Cottrell how did your repair come out? I have a bad ball joint as well as shaking under braking, did your shaking go away after replacing the balljoint ?
This week I had my 2003 Outback, 2.4 4 Cyl. checked at my local Subaru dealer for the airbag recall. I was told by the tech I needed a front left ball joint for $290 + Tax. I bought one at my local Advanced Auto online for $39.37 with the 25% off coupon. You saved me over $250 on this one job. I’m doing both sides plus rear brakes (rotors and pads) for under $200. Thank you!!!
+Christian Delgado glad to help! You're welcome. 👍
I have the EXACT problem, down to the rear brake pad and rotors!
For anyone having issues with putting the ball joint back into the control arm, I ended up removing the bolt that attaches the sway bar to the end link which allowed me extra play in pushing down the control arm and slipping in the bolt portion of the ball joint. Hope this helps. Great video!
yes did this too, the control arm is quite a pain to move down.
I removed the end link and i got a 6ft pry bar and had my dad stand on it and i still could not get it down enough... i have stiff aftermarket poly bushings in my control arm which i think is why im having such a hard time
Loosen the control arm bolts/nuts at the body. Should take pressure off the bushings and allow then arm to swing down.
MrSubaru1387 that did the trick! Thanks a lot man
Honestly man, thank you for existing!! I bought a 2004 subaru outback cause ive been wanting one. And I love working on my own cars, every time i search up a how to video you have one almost the exact car and that gives me so much confidence going into a project! Thank you so much, youve helped me tremendously.
You're welcome. 👍🏻 Glad to help.
Tip I had trouble with, there is a pickle fork size for ball joints. I wasted alot of time unknowingly using a tie-rod pickle fork.
I just replaced my struts and axels on my 2000 outback sport yesterday afternoon, ball joints next, great videos. Thank you for showing us how it’s done, quick and easy
You're welcome. Glad to help. 👍
Video leaves out the most important part - you must remove the steering stabilizer from its attachment point on the lower control arm. If you fail to do this, the two arms push against each other and you'll never get the ball joint out of either piece.
Took a 4ft pry bar but got my 08 legacy ball joint out doing it this way. I’m in Canada so I feel like I had a bit more corrosion to deal with as they love to load the roads with salt. Thanks for the video! Helped a bunch! You rock. ( also used some heat )
Just did this job, Living in New England, you will most likely not give a gentle push with a Pry bar to remove old ball joint. Had to Keep the old castle nut on the old ball joint, remove pinch bolt. Next place a pipe on the end of the control arm, near ball joint. Slam away with a 5lb sledge. Also, the control arm is most likely pushing up, and strut is pushing down. Not sure why in this video, it looked like the control arm was flapping in the wind? either remove sway bar end link, or strut bolts. mark the top bolt location first. It is eccentric shaped, and sets your alignment. then it's easy. Lastly, try not to let the hub swing out too far, it will disengage the axle shaft from trans. Don't worry if you do, you'll have to wiggle it around, turning the hub, and get the splines to align for it to pop back in. Otherwise, good video. I replaced mine for about 14 bucks. Good Luck
I bought this Subaru ball joint removal for easy removal. Made by astro tools. But you made this look so easy. Haha.
I just picked up a 2000 Outback 5-speed and this video has helped a lot. Thank you!
+c10seth awesome, glad to help.
You are a Godsend my dear friend. I bought my 99 Outback last April and was worried I couldn't find a decent tutorial for this.. I thought my ball joints were pressed in but this looks easy! Thanks you so much for the confidence and motivation!
+iiiFireDoGG glad to help!
Thanks for nice video! Loved seeing how old ball joint just pops out using pry bar. I am gonna follow your techniques. Thanks!
Can't believe how easy that looks compared to other front wheel drive vehicles.
Excellent and fun vid! But please dont
let the rust belt cars and the magnitude of this job shown in some of
these TH-cam vids keep you from doing this job yourself. I'm in the
southwest and just finished replacing both control arms with ball-joints
on my 2006 Outback. Soaked the 14mm pinch bolt in penetrating oil
first, and then leveraged the control arm against the steering knuckle just like the OP showed.
Literally no real hurking
at all...The joints almost fell out. Total time to remove and replace
the second control arm was 1/2 hour. I feel sorry for those who broke
the pinch bolt, but if you don't have a department of transportation
that insists on salting roads, you'll most likely be fine and only out
the cost of the joint (or control arm). Good Luck!
Always like watching your videos....Keep ‘em coming!!!
The beginning sounds like opening scene from Back to the Future. I like it.
Great video! Thanks. Had no problems following your instructions. I did soak my pinch bolts with penetrating oil the night before.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
AC Delco makes a awesome quality greaseable ball joint for subaru.
I've used them on my 02 forester.
I have changed many balljoints on subarus and these are the best.
Subaru OE is the best.
Good Info as always ... not that it is a big deal but would be nice to have the pinch bolt part number ... if you just went to hardware store and got a flanged nut and bolt instead and added washers ... anywho ... I have a failed one that is making my steering all sorts of fun when you can turn via pressing the gas ... or lifting off the gas ... I am replacing both left and right joints as if one failed I sure the other part on the other side is not far behind so saving myself the time and just doing both
Just did the left side, took my time. Had to throw the ball joint in the fridge fir a half hour or so to pop it into the knuckle. Did the one tool at a time walk to the garage 😅
Just did mine on my 2013 Outback here in the rust belt. Nothing worked, pb blaster, torch, air chisel, hammering for days on a board down against the control arm. What finally did it, I jacked up the control arm so it was levelish with the ground, shoved an old pipe wrench that just fit in between the knuckle and control arm then lowered it. When the arm came down, the part where the pinch bolt goes in lessens the space between it and the control arm causing it to squeeze down on the pipe wrench into the control arm which was enough force to pop out the ball joint.
If only it was that easy in rust belt! Great video!
+Steve B yea. Get it pretty easy in the south.
I enjoyed the video, I do however wonder if sometimes there's a bit of editing. Like the Producer Beat the Living hell out of a bolt, then trimmed the video to where they gently tap the bolt with a pencil eraser, and it just pops right out? Anyhow, when I did a lower ball joint on a Subaru Years ago, the old pinch bolt was so rusted it simply snapped. I had to grind it flat, Drill a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the 10mm bolt that i would have to purchase.... that's a bit of drilling, but it can be done. I just never seem to have the cars where I gently pry, nor have I had any luck tapping with Pencil erasers!
Currently replacing my sway bar links and bushings, and noticed my LCA bushing is also ripped open a bit. And now I'm here lol.
I’m about to test this method out right now. Fingers crossed.
You make it look so easy but when you live in the rust belt and it's 20 years old they don't come out that easy good video though thank you
WOW you made that look so easy :) good job.
Great video, I wish I watched your video before I did the ball joint and bushings on my Forester SH. It took me 2 days to do both sides as rust got the best of me. I put the cleaned corroded pinch bolts back in and it was a mistake. It still rattled. Ordered new pinch bolts hopefully it will resolve the issue. Otherwise I have to get your type of pinch bolts. The bolts I had looked different, screw in from one side only.
The factory bolts screw from one side. The one in the video showing a nut and bolt was a repair from drilling out a snapped off pinch bolt. Drill the hole oversized then add a grade 10 bolt, nut, and washers. The spindle even cracked on this one due to the bolt extractor. So, if you'll look, I had to weld and reshape the end of the spindle as well.
Wooh....Subaru made it easier to replace....thanks....
NIce video. Straight to the point. Very useful.
+K Johnson glad you enjoyed the video.
Great video. Many thanks! My only question is how did you get the lower control arm back on so easily? lol I had the new joint in after 15 minutes and have been 45 trying to get it back on!
+flyineaglewv rust-free South Carolina car, just slipped back together.
Remove the steering stabilizer bolt. Makes it tons easier
Thank you very much for instructions. Deffinetely a good knowledge ;).
Made it look easy, but it would have been nice had you explain what you're doing and mentioning the sizes of sockets. I have to keep looking now to find that info.
I have a couple other Subaru ball joint videos with tools listed.
This video helped me out massively, Thanks for the upload :)
+Dave's Fishing & Outdoors awesome. Glad to help. 👍
Man, you make this job look easy! Thanks ;-)
You're welcome. 👍
Once again, MrSubaru making it look so easy. I gotta do this to one of my front ball joints as well. Hey, do you know if the 1st gen Foresters need grease through fittings anywhere in the front/rear suspension components? I couldn’t find any grease fittings on my car. Thanks again for another great video! 👍🏻
No grease fittings. All sealed.
MrSubaru1387 fantastic!
Hi....Your image at 3:50 appears to have a new hub assembly and a locking bolt with nut?....Did that one Not Go Easily?....
+Lensmanic Feleven this was the driver side. camera died half way through filming. From 3:50 on it was the passenger side. The lower ball joint was rusted into the spindle on that side. Was a difficulty to say the least.
Thankyou for uploading this :)
Anyone had any experience with "555" brand ball joints? They're supposed to manufacture parts for Suzuki and Subaru. It stands for "Three Fives" a subsidiary of Japanese company Gohsyu Forge Co., Ltd which was founded in 1960 as Sankei Industry Co., Ltd and 2 years later registered it's own trademark as "555". They have the ISO 9001 quality certificate for their spare parts and manufacture suspension and steering components.
I'm just hoping they're good.
Thanks again for excellent vid @mrsubaru ... I'm almost at end of my tether with my brake shake. All calipers free and unaeized with new seals. Hubs done as they started droning. 3rd set of discs now. Rear control arm bushes done. Could worn ball joint also cause disc judder (on 700 miles since new discs now and judder seems to be coming back)
Thanks, worked out just like your video.
+Tom Walbridge glad to help
Holy cow if only American cars was as easy to do. No wonder japanese cars last longer.
+jtugfestiva tell me about it. Haha. Pressing ball joints is for the birds.
I know you are pretty quick to respond. And your advice has saved my ass already. I'm at a loss right now. It sounds like there is a rock in my rotor. Not a constand grinding. But is almost like a tick. I took my wheel off and there is a lot of play in the hub itself. It moves up and down. (Like forwards and backwards when I move it at 12 and 6. When I got serviced before the technician stated that there was some play and it was my ball joint. But personally i cant find any material that is evidence to back up his claim. The noise sure. But a ball joint causing movement in the rotor? Not so sure. It was dark and is dark now so I couldnt get a proper look. The only thing that seemed to move was the cv axle. That moved towards the engine and towards the wheel. But the rotor didnt move with it. What am I missing! I don't have a press so the bearings would be a capital B. Tia!
+Rav3 G0d if you have play in the hub, up and down, it's about 100% a bad wheel bearing. There shouldn't be any play/movement.
Should a new ball joint go in that easy? I'm at a situation that i can't get it to seat fully. Maybe just junk part?
I assume the procedure is same for a 02 WRX? I think the front suspension is very similar.
Thank you! I should send you 10% of what I saved DIY'ing it.
Apologize for asking so much questions. I just couldn't find an answer on the forums. I want to do this correctly and this is my first time. Can I just get any kind of sandpaper to sand the inside housing where the Ball joint goes? And when I put grease inside the housing. What kind of grease do I use? Thanks.
+Subaru WRX you can clear rust out with sandpaper. I wouldn't grease it, a small amount of antiseize may be fine though.
MrSubaru1387 thanks!
I noticed the new ball joint there had no rings on the boot to hold it and the grease in place, is that missing parts or is this a design that doesnt need the clamps?
Have you heard of that first bolt requiring a torch?
Just curious if the sandals are optional or can I still do this wearing shoes and socks? It’s cold where I live.
After doing this job, could the tracking/wheel alignment be off?
😂 almost every pinch bolt snaps here and I have to drill out and nut and bolt the new ball joint in. Wish they would just back out nicely like in the video lol
Wow. This is how the job gets done when you’re dreaming about it the night before. For most folks the reality involves banging the crap out of multiple rust welded things with a sledgehammer for a couple hours. And that’s if it goes well.
Great detailed video, would you recommend an alignment after replacing the lower ball joints?
+Bigshows93 alignment is always a good idea after any suspension work. I do seriously doubt that replacing only ball joints would negatively effect the alignment though.
So wait...did you change the knuckle or just wash it off camera after inserting new ball?
I guarantee if you live in a area where it snows a lot, like Canada, the pinch bolt will snap in half. 14mm is way too weak.
Thank you. I'm hoping to use this as a guide to change my 2002 Legacy ball joint.
+pjmclach glad to help!
The castle nut came off of the bolt for the ball joint since it's all rusted out so it can't hold it in place not sure how to hold it there so that I can pry the ball joint out :(
how do you know when you would need to change this out?
Hello, query, what is the name of the piece that was changed?
I'm gonna attempt this today... Been soaking my rust belt fozzy ball joints in pb blaster for a week. I have no power tools... I'm gonna yeet it with pry bars...
Did you get the pinch bolt out? How did it all go?
Great video! I hope it goes that easily for me.
+Jonathan R I hope so too. I've dealt with rusty ones. Definitely not fun.
Great video! Would this be the same process for a 04 FXT?
Yes.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thank you very much!
good job bro, please make some more videos of replacing parts. are you anywhere near Colorado Springs, I'll pay cash for your service
+ME McClane thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thank you for this video
+djblackarmstrong glad to help!
Hi Mr Subaru, UK guy here, how will I know if the ball joints are breaking down on my SH forester. Do they make a slight clunking noise when driving over uneven surface or a different noise. Please advise as you are a god with the Subaru brand.
P.s. do you admire the offroad scene with the Subaru brand or are you a impresario sti kinda guy, intrigued to know ???
Easiest way to check ball joints. Lift and support the front of the car on jackstands. Prybar between the bottom of the spindle, top of the lower control arm. Flex the prybar up and down slightly. The bar should bow and no movement seen in the ball joint. If you see movement up and down in the joint, replace it.
Yeaa the bolt the inches the ball join in snapped. Think I’m going to get a new hub and bearing
Great vid, thanks
Was the ball joint all the way seated at the end?
Hi great video, did you put your jack stand somewhere special, it seems like you can move your components pretty freely, my experience was not great. I have a 2000 OBS. It’s looking pretty similar to the outback underneath
I placed the jack stands on the factory jack points, on the rocker pinch welds.
Thanks very much :) Are you able to confirm that this would be the same procedure for a 2010 Subi
Should be near identical.
how big of a pry bar were you using to get the spindle knuckle up? mines pretty forged on their lol
What should I do if the ball join pinch bolt has like welded itself and I can’t get it off to save my life
As always love your videos!! I have done this job before but this time the ball joint is stuck... I have tried pickle fork for an hour and a ball joint separator. Sprayed it with penetrene, and lifted it with a trolley jack while using a pickle fork but cant seperate it. Any suggestions?
+simon kilcoyne torch. Airhammer.
Do you have any videos on how to shut off a door ajar light sensor
I do not. Most likely it's a bad door switch.
This ball joint looks identical to the one in my Sambar...any chance you could confirm that? I think it would make this about the 6th or 7th times I've referenced your videos over this little truck! Lol
Great video!!..Thanks bud!
Glad to help
Nicer stock sway bar links than what came on my 2005 gt wagon.
+SDBARTENDER1 yea, the 05+ are kinda puny.
Very good video.
+Eric Anderson thank you. 👍
Don't forget about disconnecting and reconnecting the tie rod end
Obviously you don’t live in a heavy salt state lol. Or you don’t drive it in the winter. All the ones I’ve done the bolt breaks. Lol. Great video.
yup!
Looks the same for a 98 as well. Is that true? Thanks in advance.
+Tom Perrault yes. Should be the same.
I have question how you know if the ball joints is bad thanks Pierre
Look for torn rubber around the joint, grab the wheel with car jacked up and rock it back and forth top to bottom and side to side, if you see movement in the joint, it's bad.
I've never had a ball joint come out of the knuckle that easily. Usually I just replace the knuckle itself.
When worn do these tend to squeak going over bumps?
They can.
Is the 2004 Outback ball joints that easy too.
2004 is identical.
Yes, exact same.
I. am wondering if this is the cause of my suspensions woes. The car seems to not ride well over potholes, just doesn't seem to absorb the bumps well - only way I can describe it. I just replaced the tie rods and it seems to be a bit better but I wonder if this is the cause? The struts seem to be ok with no float at high speeds. I know it's a bloody tractor (Subaru) but I recall it riding better.
+Jacana Productions could very well be.
I started working on Subaru in the mid 80s. When did you first start working on them?
2010 I believe.
Curious if this will be as simple for a 2008 subaru forester? I have to change out the ball bearings and the lower bushings on both sides and was curious if there are any extra things to pay attention to. I'm fairly new to this stuff.
Should be nearly identical on your Forester.
MrSubaru1387 I got the ball joints out no problem, but I can’t get the new versions into the pinch bolt area? I thought maybe it was my new parts, but I tried to slide the old one back in just to compare, and they’re too tight also? It’s a 2004 Forester XT. Do I need a press?
No. Usually spreading out the slit in the ball joint seat helps. Also cleaning the bore with a wire brush.
why are there two nuts on your ball joint pinch screw?
Did you drill out your pinch bolts on one side? Looks like the bolt goes through to a nut. Did you happen to record the drilling process? I'm wondering if you need to remove the knuckle, or if it can be drilled while still attached to the strut
I did. Due to rust. Didn't record the process. Knuckle will need to be removed from car.
Did you have to find a different pinch bolt that has a flat sleeve so the ball joint doesnt ride on the threads? or any bolt worked for you? BTW love your videos!
+Walter Elkin I drilled the hole larger all the way through and found a grade 10 bolt that was tight in that hole. Lock washer at the head of the bolt and at the end with a nut. Held for 1.5 yrs before I replaced the spindle with a rust free junkyard unit when my wheel bearing died.
ohh okay thank you. Wish you worked on my car lol. Need a timing belt done.
What does the ball joint do?