Subaru CV Axle Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ค. 2024
- A how to on cv axle replacement as demonstrated on a 2002 Subaru Outback L.L.Bean.
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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this weekend i was out of town with a pretty basic toolbox in my trunk. my front passenger CV axle blew up at the wheel end. i pulled the CV axle and stub out of the transaxle and limped to harbor freight for a breaker bar and 1 1/4" socket. then to advance auto parts for the CV axle. with $120 in parts and tools, and the help of this video, i fixed it myself in a bank parking lot on a sunday afternoon 100 miles from home. Thank you.
Glad to help. 👍🏻
Not only did the video look great, not only was it annotated and evenly exposed, not only did you do this completely correctly, you managed to get the whole video uploaded with under 10 minutes of watch time. DAMN. Great job.
+Uriah Graves thank you so much! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Agreed - the editing was top notch!
@@bradpool127
U😅
Great tutorial. Nice tips, especially using the weight of the car to break lose the axle bolt. I also liked the how we could hear the sounds of the install, but the instructions were printed on the video. Nice touch.
+David Aurzada glad you enjoyed the video.
Best style of video for these types of things. No talking to distract, simple written dialog, great views and step by step. I will come back to your videos for any issue I can fix myself.
I just did it myself a couple hours ago. I had a hard time with the roll pin so I just duct tape it to the punch till it was far enough in to remove the tape. Otherwise i followed step by step and the only thing I ended up needing was someone to put weight on the lower control arm, push it down to get the cv axle into the hub. Thank you for the video!
Good video, but just FYI, according to the service manual, the axle nut should be torqued with the wheel off the ground and the brake applied. It states this is because the bearing could be damaged during the torquing process. I highly doubt that would happen, but figured I would mention it.
P.S. I see someone else already mentioned this. Great channel! Unfortunately beat me to a lot of my coming content. ;)
@@802Garage party pooper!
@@dahaze140 Bahahaha 6 year throwback!
I guess I didn't know back then that MrSubaru was THE man.
Just replaced the driver's side front axle on my '03 LL Bean. This was an invaluable aid, got the job done quick and easy. Much better than when I bought the car and had a shop replace the passenger side, I kid you not they tried billing me for extra labor because "we couldn't figure out how the axle came out, 'Murican cars aren't like dat".
one of the most thorough DIY video I've ever watched
Glad you found it helpful.
Love watching your how to videos on Subaru. I've got an older one and may need to refer to these someday. Thumb up.
I thanked you via a previous comment on this video, but I must say thank you again. Over the weekend I consulted your video while replacing another front axle on one of my Subarus and found your video very helpful. Thanks again for all your great Subaru repair videos, please keep them coming!
+bertmaster2000 you're welcome. Glad to help. 👍
Excellent video! You kept the camera stationary - which is important to viewers - and you added text to the video afterwards. I thought this might have been a shop-only project, but it's clear from your video that it can be a DIY job. Well done!
Thanks, glad to help.
This video is really well done! I followed along on my 2001 Subaru, and I was able to complete the project easily. Thank you for your great work.
Awesome. Glad I was able to help. 👍
Why not just remove the complete Half shaft and change the stub on the bench?
Great video! Just wanted to mention (and you did it right) - apparently the axle nut should only be loosened and not removed when the wheel in on the car as it may damage the wheel bearings to remove it completely when loaded with the weight of the car. So, only remove it when the car is jacked and wheel is off, and don't short cut by taking it completely off when the wheel is on the ground.
+Malcolm Shedden yeah i have always heard that you can actually damage the interior teeth where thr axle slides in, I never seem to have gotten them off with the wheels off the ground. I always break them with all lugnets on then jack it up and remove the hubnut. I think it can really do some damage but i never noticed anything to worry about. Good luck getting a rusty old one off jacked up even with a torch.
Oh, beat me to this comment. XD
Best DIY video on this topic. Other videos had guys pulling all sorts of other stuff off. This was quick and easy. Thanks!
+Mike6sic6 glad to help. 👍
Well I’m impressed. All the important information I needed and no talking about things that don’t need to be discussed to change a cv shaft and then you even used a torque wrench on the lug nuts. Thank you for the knowledge.
Thanks a lot for all the how to videos. They're clear and concise and I've used several of them to work on the Subaru Outback that I tow behind my RV.
+Ginny Borgia awesome. Glad to be of help.
Just the video needed to readjust my cv axle in my Forester. Definitely have to make sure it is seated properly. Great work Mr. Subaru!
You make it look so easy.. what a fantastic job. Thanks for taking the time to record this!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Well made, no nonsense and really helpful. Going to attempt this soon on my Outback using your video as a reference. Thanks man, thumbs up.
Glad you found out helpful.
Best instructional video I've seen. Perfect.
This is the perfect video. No bullshit like blasting radio or stupid jokes. Just hits every point.
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful.
Awesome video man, straight to the point and clear detail, thank you very much
Great video. I've only replaced a few CV axles on Subarus, but following this method was way faster and easier for me than past experiences. I've always taken out the ball joint, which most other videos show. That takes longer and is more complicated. However, the ball joint not removed does make it a little more awkward to snake the new CV axle into place, but it's still very doable, and overall it's still much faster and easier than dealing with the ball joint (in my limited experiences).
Glad to help!
The ball joint removal, while more difficult, eliminates the risk of needing a wheel alignment. Swings and roundabouts.
Your video is really helpful, I have a problem with the 1995 subaru impreza and don't know how to fix it, your video is very useful.
Many thanks for this excellent video. I'm in the middle of doing mine and so far so good. I was able to remove the axle nut using the impact gun after bending the retaining nut out. My car was used in the north so the strut bolts were very difficult due to rust. PB Blast, Impact gun, breaker bar, and patience got them out.
+Vince L glad to help. Best of luck getting the rest of the job finished. Rust is a pain!
Thanks..It went well putting it back together and I did new brake calipers and rotors at the same time. I've worked on many cars and this Subaru model seems very well designed and easy to work on. Good fun car for the home mechanic.
+Vince L that they are. Glad your project went well. 👍
Thank you for making this awesome video. It's about time to replace mine and this made it look easy. Great instructions.
+Nate A glad to help
I watch all your vids for my outback you rock
Nice clear video instructions. I would like to add a couple of little tips, having just done this task yesterday.
I did the left side first and had a lot of problems getting the axle out of the hub once loose. If you move the inboard side way up and back it comes out very easily.
The other problem I had (and a huge time waster) was putting the roll pin in. The holes would not line up on the splines. I tried tapering the end on a bench grinder, squeezing it in a vise, and ended up only getting it 3/4's in after much hammering. On the right side I had the same issue with the roll pin, though this time I rotated the output shaft 180 degrees and the pin went in easy peasy. the whole thing took 25 minutes on the right side. I went back to the other side, rotated 180, and the pin went straight in.
Thanks.
+pellcio you're welcome. 8
@MrSubaru1387 You’ve saved me so much money by watching you videos!!!! Love them. I own a 2001 Outback VDC, what a dream to drive. She was neglected but I am bringing her back to prime because of you!
You're welcome 👍🏻
@@MrSubaru1387 Re watched this, do the camber bolts need to be torqued?
Yes, there is a torque spec for them.
Mr. Subaru is the best. You always have the tutorials I’m looking for. Thanks so much man!
Dude this video is so good bro. not talking and the sound its very nice and relax good job and thanks!! 😎
+Manuel Fierro glad you enjoyed it 👍
Sharp, neat, orderly, focused, simple. Perfect rendition. Damn! I wish I was a mechanic! Thanks. I retrospective: forget this; go into making Training Videos. You have all it takes.
Thank you. 👍🏻 I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for a straight forward, informative video. Perfect
+Jeremy Wilder glad to be of help.
Wow - you did a fantastic job on this. Thanks so much.
You're welcome.
I truly appreciate this video, thank you!
Glad to help.
Thanks for the step by step just changed mine. An the video was very helpful thank you.
you really keep things simple by not doing a lot of talking and keeping the camera still..keep up the good work
+option man thanks. Glad you enjoyed the video.
I need to do this on my girlfriends 02 outback. After watching your vid, I can approach it with a lot more confidence. Thank you.
Glad that I could help.
I did the work yesterday. Smooth as silk. This is what the internet is for. Thanks again.
Pete Hansen Perfect. Glad to have helped once again.
Awesome dude, makes me want to give it a try on my own , very straightforward video 👍👍👍👍
My wrx has a bad front driver side axle...thanks for the video i feel more confident knocking that out in the summer
A couple things, make sure you've got the roll pin holes 100% correct or you'll be pounding all day and need a new roll pin. Hint: 180 degrees off won't work even though you'll see light through the hole. Also, I've usually done these by only removing the camber bolt and letting the hub tilt forward. This really is my favorite generation of Legacy/Outback to work on, before things started getting complicated.
Thank you for posting a video that is easy to follow and straight to the point.
Glad that it was helpful to you.
Q: can the axle shaft at the hub be tapped out BEFORE the transmission end?? The video shows it being hammered before the roll pin is punched out.....mine's stuck so was wondering if it is not coming out because it is fixed because the other end is still connected to the transmission....
There is a small amount of play/give in the axle to allow you to at break it free inside the hub.
Thanks so much for this. Did the replacement on my '99 JDM Legacy GTB and it was exactly as described!
+Erik Larson you're welcome! That's awesome, glad I could help you. 👍 Oh man, how I wish we had the GTB in the states.
Wao! step by step of the entire thing. Just great and amazing content you have!!!
Great job, perfect video. Thank you!
Thanks. Glad to help.
Thanks, would not have attempted without this video. You saved me big bucks...
Glad to be of help.
Thank you for showing this.
Awesome upload
Outstanding video thank you
No problem, glad to help.
Im really digging that Snap On nut smacker you have!
so good thank you. perfect video
Great video and awesome job thank you for making the video:)
No problem. Glad you found it helpful.
Excellent video thanks
very straight forward
Great video
Gezz I thought I could just replace the joint. This is going take me all day lol
CV joint is quite straight forward...only roll pin part difficult. Thanks.....
Lao Han Tun I had an issue with the roll pin too, I couldn’t get it in because I had no way to hold it in place. So I duct taped it to a bigger punch and got it no problem. Once it was in I pull the tape of and punched it in the rest of the way.
Well done! Liked and Subscribed!
+EZ M thank you!
Great video, I can tell you don't live in New england. this car would have had to a of rust and seized bolts every step of the way. Again thanks for the clear video you just got another subscriber.👍
Dude. You're a beautiful human being just saved me lost time and probably broken parts. I would buy you a beer if I could
+MrMateo911 glad to help. 👍
Thanks for your help
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Great job.
Excellent video! No talking needed, just watch and learn!
Only thing I'm confused about is why you jacked up the vehicle and removed the wheel just to pop of the center cap?
Very good thank u and no loud crappy youtube music
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Right on, great video.
Thank you. 👍🏻
What size socket did you use for chamber nut?
19mm
Did you replace with a Subaru OEM axle assembly or aftermarket? What aftermarket brands do you recommend?
good job. do not forget to torque strut bolts
Brilliant video, nicely edited, annotated and highlights all of the steps clearly and simply, thanks for sharing.
If I don't have a a 'roll pin punch' what size is that punch?
Also, can this be feasible without removing the spindle bolts?
exellen video thank you .....
Glad you enjoyed it.
I loved the video. Proper techniques, easily understandable, and well documented. Thank you for this. I will use this in my DIY repair. Just as curiosity, were you using torque limiting socket for the lug nuts?
+MrSoulMonk Awesome, glad to help. No, I just snugged them down with the impact. Didn't use full power installing them so I could torque them properly with the torque wrench after.
Great Videos! WRX - 2009 I've got a thumping sound when I make left u-turns. Replaced the front axles where it seemed like the noise was coming from. Replace rear differential fluid. Still have the noise, not as bad. Any thoughts/suggestions?
thank you.
Well I finally have to do my axle five months from when it first started clicking bad... I work and sleep in my car and I’m currently broken down next to a store. Gonna try to find an axle and do it myself tomorrow morning but I don’t have proper tools. Wish me luck
Was going to subscribe but hell I already am.
Awesome work, liked the camera job. Only thing, the axle pins are the hardest part in my opinion because the access is frustrating, wish that was also on camera too.
It's really not that hard with the correctly sized roll pin punch, as long as the vehicle isn't rusted. Thankfully I live in the south and rust isn't an issue. I apologize for not showing the process on video, but due to the limited area, angle, and size of the camera I was using it wasn't possible to video that part of the repair.
nice video 👍🏼 where did you buy your Subaru specific center punch driver? i have an 02 WRX. will this tool work to remove my axel? thanks
So I'm having trouble with a local automotive shop that I clearly made a mistake by going to but one of my clients recommended it and her boyfriend works there. Well turns out my 15 year old daughter who only knows how to check the air in the tires and put gas in our cars and start them likely knows more about automotive repair or functions of parts than these people and this is more my shock at speaking with the general manager and his lack of knowledge more than anything. Unfortunately the guy who I trust with my car here in NC needs back surgery and his 22 year old son had recently been killed in a motorcycle accident so I didn't want to bother him. I knew that the one issue was my driver's side CV axle and I watched him replace my passenger side a year ago like it was nothing so I figured I'd be ok taking something so simple to this place. Also my ac blower motor and resistor had just been replaced by me and was blowing like a champ, ice cold air until I stopped and idled for a few minutes and that's a big issue because I transport clients dogs and it's hot here in Southeastern NC, well you know SC is the same way. Anyhow so I figured I'd ask them to check that and help me figure out what that would need. Also the boyfriend is the 65 year old little bi*ch boy that is basically a receptionist that schedules appointments and calls clients. He was also a client whose dog was routinely picked up by me and id think that AC issue would concern him as well. Well I clearly shouldn't assume these things. Initially he didn't relay to the mechanics to check the AC, I just happened to ask the mechanic when I had gone back up there and he was clueless and said he'd check it. Well the next day I called to pay for my car and I ask about the AC and he swore they added a bit of frion and it never blew warm air the whole time. I guess I'm special because it sure as fu*k continues this pattern daily. So I pick my car up and I keep thinking I'm hearing a noise but can't quite be sure until it got Louder over the next week coming from that same hub area on the driver's side. This shit show goes on to include lies and replacing the passenger side cv axle after not driving it to hear the noise and just assuming that it must be the issue. Well they had to give me that "damaged" axle back so I could return to the parts store because it had a lifetime warranty and had been replaced last year. Also I'm very aware of what a cv axle sounds like going bad so they are most definitely not thinking ahead while lying. I go to return that damaged allegedly visually, a torn boot, and thus the reason they assumed. So me and the commercial parts manager open it up and shockingly we apparently lack the xray vision required to see.any damage. And yet the noise remains. So.i go to my normal mechanic and ask him to listen as I drove away and he said it sounds like the axel isn't seated properly. Wellll after 2 weeks and 2 voice mails to the general manager because I'm very stressed about the possibility of this being the case and causing damage to my transmission, let alone the fact I paid for labor to replace a part that wasn't damaged and they lied to me about. Well I finally speak with this general manager who tells me that it wouldn't be drivable if it weren't seated correctly, which I believe to be BS. I believe it to be quite possible and potentially damage my transmission. Am I wrong? Since that discussion a week ago I've done extensive research and the reviews about this place are numerous stories just like my own. My client, who I was trying hard to tactfully deal with telling her everything, was not happy and when she asked him that evening what was going on with my car he accused her of lying lol. She promptly booted him out.
Great video as always, thanks! I am getting ready to do this on my son's 2003 L.L. Bean and was wondering if it needed a gasket / seal on the differential. I now my 2017 did when I changed the axle on it. Also, what part number is the axle spring / roll pin? Thank you!
That was a great video. I have a 92 Subaru legacy that needs either CV axle or wheel bearing. Any tips to figure out which I need to replace or both? Thanks for the info!
Would this be the same on a 99 Legacy?
Hey, the forester 99 has the brake line inside a metal hole next to the strut. What I did to take it out was grinded out out on both the new ones and old ones and it worked so far. But it looks like you have to disconnect the brake line and I did that because I didnt know how to bleed brakes.
Yup. I notch those older struts that run brake lines through them as well. Not sure why they did that.
Watching this again after I did the job. Oops didn't remove brake or abs line. Still came out and went in easy doing it like this. Thanks 🇭🇲🐨👍🏼
Could you please do a video with further information about the camber bolt position? Much appreciated.
wish i found this video when i was doing mine last week
Great video. Thank you.
1) if I needed to replace lower ball joints while I was doing the axles, could I remove the ball joints instead of the camber bolts? 2) What is your opinion of rebuilding the axles opposed to buying reman./new?
3) What brand axles did you buy?
Thank you again!
+c10seth you're welcome. 1) probably need to remove both for the clearance. 2) I've never rebuilt, only replaced. 3) Used a Tough one from Advance Auto Parts.
1) 2) Copy that! 3) Thank you - The dealership charges north of $250 for a reman. axle. I'll check out a Tough One.
+c10seth I've had good luck with them. Installed them in several Subarus.
Great video! Did you use a Subaru OEM axle or "after market"? If after market, any issue with vibration afterward? This is a well-known issue (my subie already vibrates at idle) and I'm considering springing the extra $$ for Subaru OEM or remanufactured...
+Anthony Ward I use the "new" carquest/advance auto brand axles. I haven't had a vibration issue with them in the past, or on these. I have gotten a vibration for the "remaned" parts house units.
I used a Cardone brand on one side ($43 Amazon) and now 21k miles later the other side needs to be done. So no problems so far in over 21k miles with a Cardone brand!!!
I drop the ball joint and replace those too since there so cheap and Ive never use a new roll pin tho lol 😁
Thanks
Welcome!
Question, when it comes to the CV boot clamps, is it ok to use, screw clamps/hose clamps? They are easier to put on but I dont know if they are a good idea to use or not. I recently replaced my cv boot not knowing the clamps were a one time use. The only thing I had was hose clamps. They seem to be holding well but I want to know if there are any issues they can cause. Let me know what you think, thank you
Quick jack!
You can remove those little center caps with 2 razor blades as "pry bars" haha that certain type of center cap is impossible to pry off with a little screw driver so I understand why u did that but try 2 razor blades! Love your vids man
great Video!!!! I have to do the same work for my legacy 2003, is the torque specification the same?. thanks for your kind assistance, regards from Miami.
+steve sisniegas 2000-2004 should carry the same torque specs. Glad you enjoyed the video.
thanks you!!! do you have some video of tie rods replacement
We do need to lubricate anything with a specific type of grease to the connecting splines at both ends?
Thanks to your clear video i just replaced both cv axles myself on my 03 Outback...only thing is now the driver's side rotor seems loose, checked and lubed the brake caliper, but almost like im missing a part...or the rotor got warped from driving on a bad cv ...or..? Any suggestions would be gratefully accepted...
The rotor is loose? Most likely the caliper pressure released a bit. The rotor will be locked to the hub when the wheel is installed and the lugs are torqued. Pump the brake pedal a few times, once all back together, to make sure it firms up. Probably all it is.
Did you torque the axle nut? on my 04 Outback it's 162 ft-lb
Man you make taking that axle nut off look easy, been struggling for 30 minutes trying to get it off with break bar. Still can't get it off. Any tips?
idk if you still make videos but a head gasket video would be awesome
I have to do this on a 01 outback with a manual trans. I have a leaking output/cv axle oil seal. Is that seal replaceable without removing the differential bearing adjuster?
Question on a 99 forester. None of the replacement CV axles come with abs tone ring, is it reusable or do i need to buy a new one. Great video too!
Great video, I will be using this information this week. Any gotchas one has to watch out for?
Thank you
Thanks, glad you found it useful. Just making sure you have the correct sized roll pin punch to remove and install the roll pin and making sure to mark the camber bolt is all I can really think of.
MrSubaru1387
I picked up a used cv axle from a junkyard, as long as I properly stake/unstake the axle nut and drive the roll pin out correctly and they look good I should be able to reuse them correct? Or do I have to try and find new ones?
Hi MrSubaru1387, excellent video! I am going to replace the driver's side CV axle on my 2010 outback soon. 2 questions if you don't mind? 1. this OB has less than 74,000 miles - isn't that a bit early to fail? also, #2: is there any advantage/disadvantage to removing the lower control arm instead of the camber bolt? Thanks again for the excellent video!
Not really, I just replaced the driver's front CV axle on my 60k mile 2014 Outback due to a ruptured boot. The video will actually be up tomorrow afternoon. Idk. I've always gone by the factory service manual and removed the strut bolts. You're welcome. 👍🏻
It all depends on your location. If you live/ the vehicle has lived in a corrosion area you're going to have issues removing the ball joint and it's probably going to be easier to go the strut route.