10 Minute Subaru Ball Joint Replacement. In Real-time. No Cuts.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 เม.ย. 2019
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
8 minutes to remove, 2 minutes to install new one. Give or take. I love that you don’t have some goofy music playing in the background while you work. I love watching these old videos, they are so informative.
being a Canadian viewer who has done this work on a 99 Legacy GT I did not curse you I Just witnessed witchcraft I am in awe and jealousy
Hahaha, accurate. I'm right on the border.
Right ten minutes?!
No witchcraft involved
Things come apart much easier when there's no rust
100% Simply amazes me when I see guys working on rust free cars - so easy! At 5:40 the list of Northern viewer required items is distressingly accurate!
Being a Mainer I said “this mf” in my head right before he talked about northern viewers
I learned the steps to do the lower control arms from videos that were from northern states. I was expecting a world of pain for that pinch bolt, but like you, mine came out ridiculously easy.
I did it a little different to you though, I removed the sway bar link first up, then loosened the castle nut but didn't take it all the way off off - Instead after taking the pinch bolt out, I set a block of wood on top of the lower control arm and gave it a couple of love taps with a mallet - the ball joint came entirely out of its hub location super easy. Then to set the new one pressed in, I set the castle nut on the end of the bolt, got that same block of wood back out and put it between the castle nut and the floor jack, and just used the floor jack to press the entire thing upward back into the hub.
That pinch bolt was so clean it amazed me. I've done 2 year old less then 20k vehicles here in NJ that had more rust on it than that. I am jealous.
Same. You would never have it this easy in Vermont.
Righttttttttt 😂😂
How you did that in less than three hours and without the use of magic words is beyond me. Hats off to you.
Nice video. Northeast mechanic punching the air right now. I sheared off the 14mm on one side and sent it to subaru, wound up having to replace the whole knuckle/wheel bearing assembly. Takes a lot of penetrant, torch and a delicate touch to un pinch that upper section without butchering the entire knuckle.
Ditto
My fellow northern friends.. I have done both driver and passenger side of these on my 218k mile forester. It is doable, just don’t even try without first heating the knuckle with a propane torch. No exaggeration I spend 30-45 mins just torching the knuckle. Also get a fire extinguisher because your old joint boot will absolute catch on fire multiple times haha. But I am 2/2 on successfully removing the pinch bolt.
That's where I'm at. Heated the pinch bolt to get it out and was considering torching the knuckle
Really appreciate the tips as you work as there are many things we could otherwise miss when following your work step by step. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. I just replaced my axle last week and kept seeing videos where I have to remove my axle to do this job. Since I actually need to replace my end links as well this is perfect lol.
I love these no-cut videos. Keep them up!
That's impressive... In Vermont this is a 30 minute to 5 hour job. Per side. Hahaha. I didn't curse you, but I am jealous as hell.
My dad just did one on his Forester and despite days of soaking it, still had to drill out a broken pinch bolt. Such is life!
I've been there before. Just not the norm here though.
@@MrSubaru1387 Makes me want to move, hahaha.
Many Thanks for this video. It was a huge help diagnosing a bad ball joint on my 2016 Outback. It’s amazing how much clunking noise one of these can make when they go bad. You are also right on with the difference of this job on a car in a northern climate. Knuckle , ball joint and bolt totally welded together with rust on a 6 year old car , the bolt broke and I don’t give up easily , after drilling , trying to extract it and the joint I ended up with a new knuckle, ball joint and also replaced the bearing because of red residue on it. 5 Franklins later Im on the road again. Thankfully the Kalamazoo dealership had it all in stock. I’m now subscribed to your channel and appreciate all the content you are providing.
Huge help, I feel confident replacing literally any Japanese ball joint after seeing this!
This was a fun video
Struts all around, ball joints, wheel bearings, CV axles, rear end bushings. Trans mount, swaybar links, brakes all around, That describes my 04 Outback, a $500 purchase.
wow! I would have never thought to pull the end link, would have made my life a lot easier when I changed mine the first time.
Great job! Reminds me how I hate working In gravel and dirt. PRAISE GOD, i can borrow a shop, and doing this job Friday on an 2005 Outback.
Helpful video for sure I love how easy it came apart
Won’t do that here in NY but this video was helpful nonetheless
Thank you for saving my ass again from a crazy bill. Love the videos and the detail you give.
My '07 Forester was purchased in Chicago and drove on salty roads for about 6 years. I have two balljoints that I need to tackle. Super jealous of yours that basically fell out. :)
This video really helped me see that even you have trouble with these satan joints of death. I hate them!
However, I appreciate your realtime video showing us how to go about doing it.
Hahaha! Satan joints
Ive been fighting a snapped pinch bolt for a day and a half :)
Just did my front ball joints this morning before work. I use a DeWalt impact driver to snug (not torque) the nuts/bolts and a handheld pneumatic chisel to free the ball joints (replacements) along with a 3' crowbar for control arm leverage. I do have a pickle fork but the pneumatic works faster for the throw-away parts. - Good video!
My rubu will be brand new after all these guys videos
Thank you for the realistic video. Lost of them always skip around and don't show what it really takes. Like when the tie rod got stuck up unbolted things like that happen and it's good to see.
Thank you Soooooooo much for doing this in real time!!!! Yep!!! I will be doing this to my L.L. Bean!!! You have been a big help!!!!
thank for that bro! just bought an 07 b4 legacy and need to replace ball joints so this was the perfect video for me (a beginne) CHEERS!!
Yeah, I’d say jealous is an understatement. I use Gasoila Nickel anti-seize to fight corrosion from salt. I use Sea Foam Deep Creep and WD40 to free up stuff.
I am in awe at how easy the pinch bolt and top of the ball joint came out. I had the worst time on a Legacy I owned where even with a pickle fork the top of ball joint was seized in the spindle.
Super helpful. Helped me feel ready to tackle this on my '09 Impreza. Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thank You!
Legend at work. Thank you for the details. I have been experiencing clunking noise coming from the driver side on my 2010 Legacy while coasting in neighborhoods. I thought the end links were bad and replaced both front sides but the noise continues. The ball joint is my next suspect. Your video gives me hope. Thank you!
I had recently replaced the a arm's & sway bar, struts, ect, but for some reason they didn't put new ball joins in it and now they're saying I need ball joints! Another 400 labor, I think I'll do it myself!
Oh no! I'm yelling at the screen you forgot that thing say bar end link that had a loose bolt! But you saved it! Great job!
As always. Great video sir! Thank you!
Good to hear that you work in metric.( torque settings) Metric is the best thing since sliced bread. I am from Australia.
And I thought I was the only one who did dum dum things like that... Your right! hurrying isn't a good thing.. Great video!!!
The trapped endlink was them saying "You used pliers on my sister so now get a wrench" ha ha, great vids, learning a ton.
Excellent work.
I imagine you do this works in your driveway with no airtools to show the people at home that its can be done. And for that i commend you.
However i would love to see you do one side DIY
And then other side with cheap air tools that some might have or would upgrade to. I have a cheap air hammer.with the ball joint seperater bit.
I only use it once a year but man... It works good
Keep up the great work
These videos are showing me that I definitely have to wool wax the underside of my Forester before next winter to ward off corrosion AND keep it touched up on the critical areas that will need serving in the future, living in the salt-belt really takes its toll,
Oh BTW wool wax is a lanolin based undercoating and it smells nasty, to me anyway.
that ball joint was a bear, basically pounded on the pickle fork until it came out, the pinch bolt came right out for me though. thanks for the video, helped alot
Hey look even MrSubaru encounters problems ... =) another good video
Just like working on my California cars! Everything comes right apart most of the time. Have you ever tried the Pittsburgh ball joint separator? A friend let me use one recently and I went right out and bought one. It’s way faster and easier than a pickle fork and only cost $20. Pretty amazing little tool.
Awesome job, good commentary!!
Thanks again for the videos they are very informational ! 🤙
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Thanks! I need this and axle replacement haha
Ah just commented on your trans mount video haha. Last time I did the ball joint I tried to speed run it and snapped the pinch bolt off. Turned into a major headache REAL quick!
I enjoyed the vid.....learned a lot.......thanks!
Yep 😅the pinch bolt is often the hardest part of the job here in Canada
Use a jack on the lower control arm to line up the sway bar bushings bolts to take them out and put them back in, saves a lot of time and the threads:)
Sometime soon I'll probably release the video where I actually used a pickax and a sledge hammer to free a ball joint stud... You'll understand my pain then.
😂 Wow!
This is EXACTLY where I am now, I have an old pickaxe head jammed in there with a 3' pipe on the other end and it's move about 1/4". Having already drilled the bolt out :O
@@philipsquire9056 Watch my video on it! I did eventually release it, hahaha. I have had to drill out many pinch clamp bolts as well.
@@802Garage Got it done :)
@@philipsquire9056 Awesome. :D
It's fun watching you struggle with it, knowing that others have suffered as I have suffered 😂
You are the real deal!!!
Thats ridiculous how easy that came a part!
Didn't watch this enough times before attempting, got the first joint out of the spindle but can't get it out of the knuckle. Perfectly (decent) parts that I just wanted to upgrade "while I was in there", granted they were both missing the cotter pins but boots and functions were fine. good game
Great video
In a world full of liars, you run a video and make a mistake, and still post. Awesome!
Your accent clearly indicates you're far below the salt belt. Mechanics in the north are a different breed. Great tutorial
you sir are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO lucky, i have enjoyed spending 4 hours on one ball joint smashing the hell out of it because it was stuck in the spindle, the thru bolt was seized, and the swaybar endlink nuts were super stuck; this was on a 2010 FXT with 220k
I've worked on rusty ball joints as well. The NC mountains are less than 3 hours from me. Occasionally I get one of those rust buckets. Lol
Please show a rust bucket version!
Live in PA with a 2011 forester and this was one of the most frustrating things I’ve ever worked on. Broke the pinch bolt, finally got it drilled out only to find the ball joint stuck in the steering knuckle. Ended up buying a whole new steering knuckle.
Just spend 4 hours getting mine out. MAjor pita
Today i tried to replace my ball joints and had the same problem you had, and after watching the video i see you used a pickle fork to get it free up so i will try again, on my 2010 subaru legacy.
Wow wonderful very informative video, thank you!! Would one want to put some 'never seize' on the body of the ball joint and the retaining bolt so 'next ti me' would be easier?
Rule of thumb on Torque on castilated nuts. Min torque applied and first castellation. Works on Aircraft should work on a car :-)
I sprayed mine with WD-40 penetrant three weeks before I removed them. By waiting it made them come out easy. And my wrx is from the rust belt. I also would loosen then tighten then loosen and then remove the bolts. The pinch bolt had rust but I also saw oil on the threads so I knew spraying them worked.
Thank you. Hope this is the same for 2010 forester. I know its bad. Now will that cause a shake or wobble as well when going around a curve? Either way I am doing it. Just hopin it gixes that issue as well
Thanks for tour help.
The pinch bolt wasnt seized? The ball joint wasnt seized in the spindle assembly? Where is your torch? Living in the south has its advantages. Great repair.
Mr. Subaru , I think you should buy a long tapered bar your choice of lengths to help line up holes. These tools are indispensable for hole alignment.
As usual, a great help. many Thanks!
Regarding how long it takes to do this, or any repair, I always start the clock when I start gathering my tools and jacks and the clock stops when I change out of my dirty clothes and finish washing my hands.
I figure start to finish and a beer at the end, that’s about a two hour job to do both ball joints. Pretty easy Sunday morning for most guys!
Great job 👍🏻
I can really change that ball joint in under 15 minutes using hand tools
The reason why it's taking too long time with you because you are busy making the video and fixing the car at the same time
Hey I followed this guide, had to drill that damn pinch bolt out but didnt mess up any threads. The new bolt that came with the ball joint had a bigger head on it for some reason but regardless, tightened in the hole fine to torque spec. However, still got some sound coming from it. Local shop friends took a look and by rocking that side of the car down, one of the mechanics said he could see the ball joint moving. Do I need to remove that bolt and hit the control arm up as far as I can, and then try tightening it down beyond spec? I mean that bolt can only go through that knuckle one way, and in that groove on the ball joint, so I don't understand why it might be moving. Tighten more right? Likewise, do I need to retighten the castle nut? I went to spec and then a bit more to get the pin in. Thanks for all the help.
It's always the ones we think will be super easy, that's a pain in the butt!
Should I just replace the ball joint from my 2017 forester XT or should I replace the whole control arm?
I’m about to change my ball-joints also…I have replaced my CV Axles and Head Gaskets and Radiator and Catalytic converter…
I’ve replaced the timing belt and cam seals ( twice ) and bearings and and outer belts also….
I also do my tune ups …..oil changes…brakes….
I got a “ Brand New “ Alternator off a used Subaru ( same year car ) which is 85 amps compared to my 70 amp alternator…I was told the extra amps was for powered stereo system in the other car…Is it safe to use this new alternator on my car….?
By the way..my car is a 2001 Forester and has 235,702 miles and still drives great…
Thanks for the video’s!!….Jim
Did one yesterday. One hour and 45 mins. It’s a CT car. That’s with pulling the spindle off completely. Had to cut the sway bar links off. Frozen solid. Yes I was cussing and bloody knuckles. That was the drivers side. Still have the passenger side. Salt destroys cars up here. Damm
when u said I assuming my northern viewers are cursing me.......no rusting....! You cracked me up. I did not curse you though LMAOL went through me mind LOL
I just replaced a cv axle and tie rod end, so I got an alignment (cheap $60) done. The guys at the shop said I need to replace my ball joint bc there's play. Two questions, do I need to replace both lower ball joints? And do I need to do another alignment when I'm done?
Good job....
Hello sir....good tutorial. Thinking to replace my 2004 forester ball joints soon.
Just wanted to know did you use the 6ton or 3 ton jack stand ?
is worth it to take a wire wheel to the knuckle opening before putting a new ball joint in? I've seen some people do that
It is much easier to use the Subaru ball joint removal tool. Your method also work.
Would you recommend putting never-seize on the upper part of ball joint and/or pinch bolt for us northern climate residents?
Yes, ball joint socket in the spindle.
I suspect I need to replace the ball joints on my impreza because of clunking going over bumps. I live in Pennsylvania so I know it will be a fight trying to replace them haha
I live in PA as well so I always make it a point to use Never-Seize on anything that's threaded or where there's tight metal to metal contact (like on the unthreaded shoulder of that pinch bolt ) when putting things back together after a repair so next time I have to do it, it comes apart easily. I like the Copper Anti-Seize. It's for high temps and a bit more expensive but I think it's better than the gray stuff.
BTW, thinking along the same lines for home plumbing repairs, I always use Plumbers Grease on anything with threads when repairing faucets or valves and also a thin coating on O-rings. ANYTHING & EVERYTHING with threads... put some on there!
This is especially a big help if you have hard water and get mineral build up on plumbing fittings, and fixtures, which tend to be made of brass. Brass is a soft metal and easily deformed. When you start losing your mind trying to take something apart that wont budge , you end up cutting corners and banging the hell out of it and end up having to buy another one.
When you come back months or years later to do a repair and everything comes apart easily because you used Plumbers Grease you'll be glad you used it.
"Man that things being a bear"
Lmao
Northern ball joints wouldnt resist in such a manner 😀
Thanks for a great video, have plans to do mine
being that so much takes impact from the road , would you suggest doing other items "while you there" when changing these?
If so, what else would you do?
Always a good idea to check control arm bushings, struts, tie rods, etc while in there.
After watching this video, and living in the north, I'm tempted to proactively pull my pinch bolts out and hose 'em down with some anti-corrosion.
At least hit them with Fluid Film or something
taking that pinch bolt out in wisconsin is a half hour job alone lmao
Are the ball joints on a 2004 Outback the same? And why didn't you use an air hammer with a pickle fork attachment to get that old ball joint out?
Wish you can come to Las Vegas and fix my Subaru!
It this technique will work with subbie crosstek 2013? Or
I'm gonna try to do this with a makeshift prybar and hope I get get it out.
You do great work and great videos but working on the dirt? I have a gravel driveway and I lay out sheets of 3/4 outdoor plywood and clamp them together. The ability to roll a creeper around and have a surface for a jack stand or quick jack is worth the 3 sheets of plywood all day long.
If I had the money to go ahead and build my shop, trust and believe I’d be working inside. Lol
Im doing a ball jt and axel replacement on my 07 wrx and there was quite a bit of rust. The steering knuckle has a bit of pitting where the ball jt was, does this warrant replacing the knuckle?
Bravissimo
Hey, @mrsubaru1387 do you know the diameter thread pitch and length on the bolt that secures the ball joint to the steering knuckle? The kit I bought doesn't have them and I don't want to return them because they're made in Japan
I tried this last week and Wisconsin.. yeah let’s just say I needed a new spindle lol bolt head broke right away 😑😑😑
Yeah upstate NY so different I have a 2010 Subaru legacy is it this easy?
Do you need an alignment after replacing the ball joints on these cars?
Is it best to get these from the dealer or try and find Moog version of it?
not much harder up here in ny. Just need oxy for the pinch bolt and a ball joint puller to rip it out of the knuckle. PITA without em tho
04 foresturd, ended up cracking the knuckle spreading the pinch section. The rust is so bad. It has rusted it at the top and Im just replacing it with another one. 4hrs still not out. Yes the bolt got removed after drilling it out and pounding it out.
I like those German torque specs. Guten-tite!
If I have to replace my ball joint and axle what should I do first?