Another often overlooked step is removing the front sprocket cover and cleaning away all the accumulated wax/lube and road debris. Only takes a few minutes and if you’ve never done it you will be surprised how much gunk is in there. Kerosene is all you need for cleaning the chain and sprocket area, then finish with a light coating of Maxima Chain Wax.
Not sure about you use of cleaner and WD-40. Personally, I just use kerosene as recommended by the manufacturer and works really well to clean the chain and rims. I have seen people complain about the use of WD-40 but have seen others use it with no problem. It seems the take away was that you would need to do weekly maintenance when using WD-40. Personally, I use a teflon-based chain lubricant by dupont. Goes on wet and becomes like a wax and appears to have done the job well for the ten years I have been using it.
Kerosene is cheap and amazing as a cleaner. Gear oil is cheap and amazing as a lubricant (far better than WD-40). I clean immediately before a wash, and lubricate at the end of the wash. This eliminates the need for a cardboard protector. I also do the cleaning/lubing in the ill-advised manner of running on my rear stand, which makes for the process being faster and more thorough. Regardless of what anyone says, this is the least dangerous thing I do on my RR.
I can't condone your method of running on the rear stand, but you make a good point 🤣 I use paraffin (as we call it) on cleaning engine internals but never considered it for chains. I'll give it a go. Cheers
How do you lube the inside plates of the chain when you have it running? I do all 4 sides of the chain to keep the rust from the plates, unless this isn't necessary.
@@bikemenace2145 Hi, I don't bother, I rely on there being enough lube to work its way over the sides. It's not been a problem yet, 7.5k miles, mainly in the dry 😁
@@MSmifffy I'll give that a try. I wonder if I'm actually overusing lube, though I do ride in the wet and damp too. Am I right in thinking you only spray the top and bottom of the chain then?
@@bikemenace2145 I apply the lube oil with one hand while holding the 3-sided brush against the moving chain with the other. The brush guarantees thorough spread and penetration.
Hi all. Watched a alot of videos on the bmw 1000 range bikes. I see on the rear sprockets that some have the flat side facing out and some have the liped side facing out. Is ther a right way or wrong way the have the rear sprocket facing,?
Following up what I posted I replaced my factory chains and sprocket. Igot a jt sprocket and a DID chain I removed the hub from the wheel and placed it on a flat surface and measured from the top of the sprocket to the desk. then I removed the sprocket placed the jt sprocket with the lip side facing out and got around a 3 mm difference then with the lip side facing the hub I got the same measured as the factory spec.
Another often overlooked step is removing the front sprocket cover and cleaning away all the accumulated wax/lube and road debris. Only takes a few minutes and if you’ve never done it you will be surprised how much gunk is in there. Kerosene is all you need for cleaning the chain and sprocket area, then finish with a light coating of Maxima Chain Wax.
Been using kerosene for years, cheap and works brilliant 👌
Thank you, your video helped me adjust my chain on my s1k
chain sag needs to be measured with the bike on the sidestand
that's not true, you can do it on the rear stand aswell, as the weight is still on the rear axis. You can't do it on a central stand though
@@TheArtsOfSenseit is true, as some of the weight is taken by the stand.
Not sure about you use of cleaner and WD-40. Personally, I just use kerosene as recommended by the manufacturer and works really well to clean the chain and rims. I have seen people complain about the use of WD-40 but have seen others use it with no problem. It seems the take away was that you would need to do weekly maintenance when using WD-40. Personally, I use a teflon-based chain lubricant by dupont. Goes on wet and becomes like a wax and appears to have done the job well for the ten years I have been using it.
I use diesel for years no problem here
Kerosene is good stuff thats what i use, Strips all the grime from the chain
The wd40 he's using is the chain formula, it's not as penetrating as the other. I would not use plain wd40
Thanks 4 the vid my friend
I am using bmw M performance chain. Just need adjustments no need to lube or clean for a very very long time.
Parafin, all you need for chain cleaning. Cheap and cuts grease and all the shite off...rinse, dry the chain and relube
Kerosene is cheap and amazing as a cleaner. Gear oil is cheap and amazing as a lubricant (far better than WD-40). I clean immediately before a wash, and lubricate at the end of the wash. This eliminates the need for a cardboard protector. I also do the cleaning/lubing in the ill-advised manner of running on my rear stand, which makes for the process being faster and more thorough. Regardless of what anyone says, this is the least dangerous thing I do on my RR.
I can't condone your method of running on the rear stand, but you make a good point 🤣
I use paraffin (as we call it) on cleaning engine internals but never considered it for chains. I'll give it a go.
Cheers
How do you lube the inside plates of the chain when you have it running? I do all 4 sides of the chain to keep the rust from the plates, unless this isn't necessary.
@@bikemenace2145 Hi, I don't bother, I rely on there being enough lube to work its way over the sides. It's not been a problem yet, 7.5k miles, mainly in the dry 😁
@@MSmifffy I'll give that a try. I wonder if I'm actually overusing lube, though I do ride in the wet and damp too. Am I right in thinking you only spray the top and bottom of the chain then?
@@bikemenace2145 I apply the lube oil with one hand while holding the 3-sided brush against the moving chain with the other. The brush guarantees thorough spread and penetration.
Thank you, sir !
Axle nut torque spec is 92 ft lbs, 124 nm. Its in the manual! Page 195
I don't know what manual you are referring to, but the manual that came with the bike clearly states 100NM on page 208.
In my 2021 S1000RR manual. What year is yours?
@@ravenmoto5948 2020
@@markshomeengineering5243 Well, that is strange they increased it
@ravenmoto5948 my 2021 says 125nm on the plate the axle goes through
With the book just saying push up I feel like I haft to take that literally it’s really frustrating 🤣what’s your thoughts about this please
Hi all. Watched a alot of videos on the bmw 1000 range bikes. I see on the rear sprockets that some have the flat side facing out and some have the liped side facing out. Is ther a right way or wrong way the have the rear sprocket facing,?
I don't know, mine is as it came from the factory.
Cheers, Mark.
Following up what I posted I replaced my factory chains and sprocket. Igot a jt sprocket and a DID chain I removed the hub from the wheel and placed it on a flat surface and measured from the top of the sprocket to the desk. then I removed the sprocket placed the jt sprocket with the lip side facing out and got around a 3 mm difference then with the lip side facing the hub I got the same measured as the factory spec.
I think your movement of chain was 40-70 mm not 45-50 mm