Motorcycle Chain Adjustment WITH INSANE PRECISION
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2024
- In this video Fabien shows how he adjusts his motorcycle chain slack the most precise way possible. Motorcycle chain slack adjustment to extremely important and the chain should be adjusted very regularly.
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#Motorcycle #MotorcycleChain #MotorcycleMaintenance
Couple of good points there. I have been adjusting chains for more than 40 years now, and I have never even considered looking out for movement on the top run. Also, wedging something between the chain and sprocket to pull everything forward is a great idea.
Thank you
yeah, i usually bang on stuff with a rubber or deadblow hammer, but the wedging trick seems much better.
@@FabMotorbikesThanks Fab, I have a metre long piece of 12mm bright round bar which I know is perfectly straight, I remove the chain guard and lay this bar on, or rather in,the top run of the chain. Pushing it as far toward to the drive sprocket as possible. Then I measure from the Bar to the front and back of the wheel rim, adjusting until equal measurements and the correct chain tension is arrived at. This gives perfect chain and front to back wheel alignment. ATB.
Ps, I've done this for years and think this is original as I've never heard of it before .
@@AshalielYou do need to be careful, as you can put a lot of strain in the chain.
You’ve been adjusting chains for 40 years and you’re complimenting someone else on their techniques, this makes you an open minded, mature, considerate, and you’ve got your ego in check.
I love people like you.
The clearest, straight forward, easy to follow guide ever.
I watched probably 10 other videos and come away scratching my head, this 5 min video is super easy and clear.
Mate thank you so much.
Thank you. Glad it’s helpful 👍 remember to check your user manual though, this guide is quite specific to my bike. I should’ve mentioned that.
Several good tips here- thanks.
I appreciate how quickly you get into the actual subject.
Too many channels, on any subject, have a big production intro, followed by the presenter telling me what he’s going to teach me, followed by his telling me how qualified he is, which is of course, followed by him telling me at least 2 or three more times, what he’s about to teach me. At this point, I usually click to a different channel.. one that respects my time… like yours.
Thank you. I try to keep it to the point.
The trick of the wrench between the sprocket and chain is gold. Thanks.
no problem, glad to be useful
Bless this man
A piece of rag works even better.
Agreed
Agreed 👍
Finally I find someone who shows me in a very understandable way how to set the right slack of the chain. Now I am confident in doing the chain on my KTM 1290r adventure. Thank you! 🤗
I’m glad to be helpful, thank you for watching 👍
@ragnar careful with KTM. You can't use his technique to measure the dead center where to search the tightest point. You have to take it somewhere after the chain slider under the swing arm. I have a Duke 890 R myself and KTM has its own peculiar way of measuring chain slack. !!
Didn’t know this. Thank you 👍
@@moulip Thank you for the information. Yes it´s a bit more hassle to get it right on the KTM.
This is the most in-depth & straight to the point video I've seen on this. I also wanted to mention the way you described the alignment technique you used (with wedging an object in between the chain/sprocket) was very clear & direct. Much appreciated brother
Thank you so much! Really glad you found it useful.
The only thing i forgot to mention was that slack measurements can differ from bike to bike, especially for those with out a centre stand.
Thanks again and ride safe!
@@FabMotorbikes Is it ok to do it on side stand especially when on a ride, roadside? And I guess the owners manual always show measurement using centre stand or paddock stand?
@@royarnab22 you can definitely do it while on the kickstand but if you want to do it the best way then you’re going to want to do it on a rear stand or rig something up to where your rear tire is off the ground. You don’t really want pressure on your rear tire from sitting on the ground while your bike is titled over like how it is on the kick stand. If you have to do it roadside emergency wise then you might want to check it and see if it need to be readjusted back at home with the tire suspended in the air.
It would be worth mentioning that the slack measurement should be done as indicated in the user manual, most often on the side stand, not the central one like seen in the video.
Thanks for the tips 🤗
100% agree . I said this but, no where near clear enough. Every bike is different. This is for my bike . Thanks for watching
FZ6 has the measurement on the center stand with 45-55mm slack per user/service manual. And too loose is much better than too tight - you are more likely to destroy your chain if you are too religious with adjustments:)
Agreed 👍
@@h4xi0rek so it’s like growing a beard. Don’t try to make every hair perfect it never will be. Good advice. Thanks.
Measuring chain slack and finding the tightest section just using the side stand is a complete nightmare. Get a paddock stand to maintain static sag on the suspension and still turn the rear wheel without all the hassle.
So many little details make a big difference. Much appreciated! Didn't know most any of this. So many ways to get this wrong. I'll need to reference this video often until I get it all memorized. Thanks!
Thank you for watching! Glad it was useful
@04:20 Not the only way. I struggled for a long time to get the wheel aligned having to adjust left and right until eventually I thought it was straight. Took ages.
Then I started using a Vernier Caliper to measure the axle block gap to make sure it's 100% even rather than eyeballing the marks on the swingarm. Works every time and it's so much faster
Thought I got all the right points in my adjusting process but this dude dropping some really useful tips for things I wasn't able to address before.. Good stuff here.
Thank you !
This is the best guide to chain adjustment I have ever seen. Spot on!
Thank you. Glad it was useful. One thing I forgot was to mention that you should make sure you measure your slack based on what is needed for your bike. E.g on my bike, it’s when it’s on the centre stand. But in yours it may be on the side stand or a paddock stand. They’re all different!
@@FabMotorbikes On mine it is the side stand. I ride a ZZR1400, and with the twin exhausts it's a real pain in the ass to do. I noticed it clunking more into first gear and from first to second last Saturday, so I thought I'd better adjust it. I've since cleaned the bike and chain but, this weekend I'll do the adjustment. Thanks again for your excellent video.
😊 no worries thanks for watching 👍
A good video guide for those who haven't done it before. One point I would like to add is that the alignment markings on the swing arm should NOT be relied on as accurate. OK for a rough setting but better to check the wheel alignment with a straight edge-preferably one each side of the wheel. I was amazed to learn how far out these factory markings can be!
For the absolute best accuracy get the wheels aligned by someone with a laser alignment kit. More precise than any eye measurements and you can actually feel the difference when riding. Quite a few bike shops have laser alignment kits these days.
Yea this is why I came here. Pretty sure my factory marks are off by 25% the distance between the etched lines. Exhaust and other stuff in the way of measuring from swingarm to rear axle bolt on both sides to confirm. I ordered a motion pro sight alignment tool that clamps to the chain, but not thrilled with the prospects of that, either. Also not thrilled with the price of the laser option but perhaps that's what it'll take to satisfy the standard I'm trying to acheive.
Absolutely correct. My Bandit 1200 chain adjusters are off by a FULL MARK. I recommend a "sprocket pointer tool, such as by Motion Pro, which latches on to your rear sprocket and has a stick/pointer that runs parallel with your chain edges.. a better form of adjustment.
Laser chain alignment tools are not that an expensive addition to your toolkit. I have profi-cat laser adjuster and with several bikes it gets enough use to justify its cost. I must have had it about 15 years and was amazed to see how much they cost now (mind you, I say that about the cost of everything) good tools pay for themselves over and over again! Don't work on your bike with its supplied toolkit (except in a roadside emergency), it's quality is very low, invest in some combination spanners, sockets, a few screwdrivers (jis and flat blades) and some allen keys. Aldi and lidl sell tools plenty good enough quality and in real terms tools have never been so cheap.
Clear and concise with some good tips, particularly around pulling the wheel forward to take the slack up in the adjusters before tightening the wheel (now subscribed). Having had an off due to the chain snapping and locking up the back wheel on an RD400 back in the 70s, I'm still a bit paranoid about precise chain adjustment/maintenance.
One thing I question though is omitting top rung slack - I have always presumed (perhaps wrongly) that you are meant to be measuring total, rather than just bottom rung chain slack.
One reason I've made this assumption is that on at least some bikes which are adjusted on the side stand, the manufacturer stipulates putting the bike into neutral. This suggests to me that this is specifically allow the slack to be taken up in the top rung - being in gear would in fact prevent top rung slack being measured, so if you didn't want to measure top rung slack, having the bike in first gear would help prevent this. Am I perhaps missing something here?
I also find it hard to get my head around the universal instruction to pull the chain down as well as up to measure slack. if the gearbox is in neutral, or wheel is off the ground when measuring slack, in my enfeebled brain tells me that all slack will be measured just pushing the chain upwards?
Yes I found it useful, and the title goes with the video "...Precisión". This is a 5 star video, thank you for sharing knoledge and tech.
Thank you
You should adjust both sides together, so keeping the wheel aligned when checking tension. With this method, you got your tension perfect by only using one adjuster, then aligned the other side which would have changed the tension again. Thanks for the other tips, I will try them next time I adjust.
Thanks for the tips I do agree. Although I find that the key is to keep checking, checking and checking again. Things often annoyingly move.
@@FabMotorbikes That's true 👍
You said what I was thinking. I always do 1/4 turn on one side, then the other, then check. Down to smaller adjustments if needed but always to both sides
Hi cheers for your video, I have just bought an alignment tool to clamp onto the sprocket to double check my swing arm markings as they are known to be out on most bikes. I can in theory look down the chain via a rod to eye it up. Has anybody used one of these tools as well?
I’ve not used one. But I do think they’re a great idea.
I've played with those. Problem is there often isn't open space for them to do their thing.
Thanks Fab, that's a handy tip about sticking a spanner in the sprocket to shunt the axle forwards.
You’re welcome. Glad you found it useful 👍
Very real world Fab by working on a bike that is obviously regularly used and not one of those showroom "licked clean" machines that is so unbelieveable and unrealistic. This is just good and honest. Keep on keeping on dude. Thumbs up!
thank you! I appreciate that. all the best
I love my garage queen, I'm able to keep it in showroom condition with baby wipes and quick detailer. I don't even get it wet to wash it. My kit is just as clean. Each to their own I say. If you're happy riding a mucky looking thing then that's fine too. But for me, nothing like turning heads with a sparkling clean bike, which I do whenever I ride mine. I also never get asked to remove my helmet at petrol stations for fuelling or payment probably because my bike always looks brand new. I enjoy cleaning it too so it's a double win for me. My car is just as well looked after.
A very useful video & some helpful tips on tensioning the chain, which I didn’t know about & I have been riding bikes for more than 50 years! Thanks
Thank you
That's what I was looking for, straight to the point with the tools that you have at house, no lasers, expensive torq wrenches and bullshit. Great stuff 👍
Glad to hear of help! Only thing I would recommend is to read you user manual. The measurements I quote are for my bike , not every bike. For your bike it may not be optimal to adjust the chain on the centre stand.
The end of the chain slider on top of the swingarm is usually halfway and where manufactures tell you to check tension. No need to measure the whole thing and then half👍🏼
If you say *usually * then perhaps there is a need for measuring - 4 seconds job.
Excellent, no-BS advice. A lot of people will benefit from this. Thanks!
Thank you, glad it was helpful 👍
You say that adjusting the axle block and comparing to notches on the swingarm is the best and only way, that's only true if those notches are accurate, many bikes come from the factory with those settings out of whack, both screw type or snail cams can be out by quite a bit, you'll also lose accuracy with worn parts like bearings, for true accuracy set the axle to the same notches on both sides, then use a long rod with a sliding pointer and measure from the swingarm pivot to the axle pivot, the measurement should be exactly the same on both sides of the bike, with that established and with compensating for any inaccuracies you can properly adjust the chain, distance between the swingarm pivot and center of axle are all that matters, always treat the adjustment markings as suspect. excellent video.
bro you have no idea how your video had helped me adjusting my chain....thank you!!
Thank you . Glad it helped!
Best explaining I’ve ever seen on a chain adjustment! Well done mate!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful 👍
I think to measure total slack, you have to push the chain all the way down as far as it can go then up as far as it can go. I believe this is the only way to standardize the measurements and according to motorcycle manufacturers.
Correct
This is a tip I learned from Dave moss tuning. (Great channel by the way). It ensures maximum suspension travel and reduces the risk of over tightening.It’s not for everyone. And it’s definitely not an official manufacturing recommendation.
@@FabMotorbikesthen you didn't may attention. Cause Dave Moss clearly said to push (up AND down) the chain on the bottom side till it starts to rise on the top side. In other words: measure WITHOUT overtensioning the chain when measuring
@@lillnemo1I’m pretty sure he addresses this in the video..
I think you do want to measure both up AND down (which I think he says in the video) however you want to do so without the other side of the chain also moving. (Otherwise it would be an immaculate measurement).
Question if I may. Are you sure the tension is checked with the rear wheel suspended aka no load? I thought it was bet checked with the bikes weight aka using paddock stand. I truly don't know, just asking. Thank you AND nice video ;-)
Hi there! I do agree for the most part and this is something I wish I mentioned more clearly in the video 😊. It basically depends on the bike. I was working off the specifications for my bike. Which states that the wheel should be adjusted on the centre stand and is a big reason why it looks loose when I’m done (as the chain tightens up with weight on the bike). At time of recording most of my followers had the same bike as me. The video has amazingly reached further than I anticipated. Overall I’d advise checking your user manual for your bike, then you know it is correct. E.g you may not have a centre stand. Thanks so much for watching and cheers for the comment!👍also… what bike do you have?
I have come across motorcycle chain alignment marks, that don't tally with each other & I've found that both sides of the wheel adjustment need's to be equal first before checking the tension otherwise like you shown, the chain tension can go out i:e to tight
I guess I have been really lucky. All my bikes the marks have been bang on. Do you measure the axle to the swing arm bearing?
While its up, lube that chain and give it a wipe. I check for sprocket wear and if the chain can be lifted off the rear sprocket (indicating chain wear). String lining/laser measurements are generally overkill in my opinion, yes a lot are out but I'd bet not one of us could tell the difference (MC Mech +30yrs exp). Thumbs up for the clear instruction and hints.
Thank you i
Agree, but I will one up you. Clean and lube BEFORE adjusting. A loosened up chain can affect adjustment quite a bit vs a dirty/binding one. Plus there is no sense to adjust if it turns out that the chain fails inspection.
Life saver. I adjusted the axle nut too far back and I didn't know how to push it back forward. That trick at 3:39 saved me
Glad it helped you
I just kick the wheel when that happens.
Thx for the video its the same setup as on my CSC RX4.... I have been neglecting doing the chain adjustment and had alot of slack..... I was to nervous to do it before solo... Video helped a lot :-)
Glad to be of service! FYI the measurements given are for my bike specifically. Please check your manual
@@FabMotorbikes I followed the measurements that was printed on the swing arm…. My china bike manual is trash ☠️
That Was Pretty Good, Man. I Did Not Know To Measure Between The Two Sprockets. Thank You.
Glad it was useful
Absolutely brilliant...no BS...sharply delivered mate...Ride Safe!!!
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful. The only thing I would add is to check your manual in regards to measurements and whether you should be adjusting your chain on your centre stand or side stand. As that will differ from bike to bike. Ride safe!👍
Clear and to the point. This helped me sort out my chain before our 2 week trip around the UK. Subscribed
Awesome! enjoy the tour!
Thank you Brother Fab for THE best instruction I ever saw on how to adjust your chain, subscribed!
Thank you . Hope it was useful 👍
When finally tightening the axle nut at 5:17 he said a tendency to pull back. If you fit spanner handle down, you pull forward.
I've used 3 different methods for aligning the wheels over the past 60 years. On most bikes front tyre is thinner than rear.
First learned the string method tying string to front wheel and with string touching front of rear wheel, then checking distance to rear part of tyre, both sides.
Second method, described in many manuals. Use two long straight planks touching rear wheel, front and rear. Distances from plank to front wheel shall be equal.
Third method. Use a 24 inch spirit laser level pushed against rear tyre. Small cardboard boxes on each side of front wheel. Sharpie mark on laser dot.
My own idea when I could not find straight planks nor a string in the workshop. Fasted and easiest to do.
All alignments done with bike vertical.
All very useful, thanks, especially the shoving a spanner in tricks! Question, why is the centre-point of the chain not marked on the swing-arm by the manufacturer??
I’ve been told that the centre point is the end of the plastic chain runner in the top of the swing arm… but I think they don’t mark it as the centre can change as the wheel moves backwards.
Thanks for a very HELPFUL video! Since we've had a winter storm in the eastern US, I've been doing projects on my bike; adjusting my chain and aligning the wheel is one of those projects. I've watched a few different videos, but they all left something out. Yours helped make sense, so I'll be able to set things right. Thanks! Cheers... :)
Awesome thank you. I’m glad it was helpful 👍
I like the tip of using something to jam in the sprocket to tension everything up while torquing the axle nut. My '74 Norton Commando really changes chain tension b/c of axle movement when torquing the axle bolt. Will try your tip.
Although you stated your tension spec was for bike on center stand, might want to emphasize why that is important. Many folks see the slack spec and just measure it with bike on side stand, centerstand (if equipped) or a paddock stand. It is critical to know what the spec is meant to be measured at (side, center stand or even with weight of rider sat on bike etc.) b/c the swing arm is not pivoting exactly where the front sprocket rotates...the slack spec needs to take this difference into account for the given geometry bike.
I completely agree, I should have emphasised more than I did that this is for my bike only . It’s different for side stands and paddock stands
Best chain adjustment guide I've seen. Thanks for including the all important observation of the top chain movement - If the chain on top is moving while you're pushing up on the bottom part of the chain, you're pushing too hard. Thanks for making this super clear, concise, and complete.
Thank you. Glad it was useful. The. Only think I forgot to mention was that every bike will differ in regards to whether the chain will be adjust whilst in the side stand , centre stand or on a paddock stand. In my case the measurements are for when the bike is on the centre stand, therefore the slack will be looser.
Interesting and well informed video. Just to add, on my nc750x it doesn't matter if you measure the slack on side stand or center stand. The results are the same.
Interesting thank you
Thank you Sir. Great video. Sharp and illustrative. The tip in using a screwdriver to assist moving the axle forward was brilliant. Off to tighten mine. Thanks from the antipodes (Australia)🦘.
Thank you for watching
Your explanations are fantastic, great attitude and delivery..
Thank you 😊 I’m glad the video was useful 👍
Hi Fabian,
You've educated me. I didn't know your trick of "shunting" the wheel forward by using a screwdriver between the rear sprocket and chain. Thank you.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful
Excellent directions on chain tightening, no waffle and infilling... great work
Thank you
Use a rag instead of a wrench between the sprocket and the chain. Cool tip I saw in another video, except yours explained why you do it! Thanks!
Rag is a way better tool for this. Thanks for watching!
@@FabMotorbikes i was tightening my chain and then forgot the rag between the sprocket and the chain. I had the bike on the stand and put in first. The rag travelled through the back sprocket and then it snapped down after the rag made it out. Did i destroy the chain? 😥
This is the best tutorial Ive come across/ thank you for being so clear and concise
Thank you I hope it was useful
Very good video. How to move the back wheel backward when the chain is too thigh. My bike chain is over tightened by the motorshop. And now I want to loosen it .
Definitely worth doing. Thank you for watching
Nice thorough tutorial.
I find that the punch marks on the swingarm aren't necessarily even with each other, especially on KTMs. This can lead to a rear wheel that is slightly out of alignment. Being insanely detail oriented, I measure from the end of the swingarm to the block to make sure both sides are even. I use a micrometer, although a simple ruler will due I suppose! After setting the adjusters to be exactly even, you can simply count the "flats" on the adjusting screw when making small adjustments going forward.
@@Pwilli-hs6yi Indeed. I use an inside/outside caliper. Such a handy tool to have around!
I like this concept, but a couple potential problems I'd like to make up to ruin both of our day. What if the welder didn't slap together the swing arm so each arm is perfectly the same length? What if the hole in the block which the axle slides through wasn't drilled perfectly centered in the block? What if the blocks weren't manufactured to the exact same demensions?
@@williammahoney6968 "What if the welder didn't slap together the swing arm so each arm is perfectly the same length?" Then the markings are off also.
@@williammahoney6968What if the alignment markings are applied after the assemble as been fabricated?
Can I suggest trapping a folded rag between chain and sprocket rather than a metal spanner? It will still lock the system up but will not damage either the chain or sprocket (or both).
Good idea
TH-camrs to this day still cannot explain the process this good
thank you
Simple and easy, best chain tutorial I've seen till now, thanks bro!
Thank you
Thanks for this mate. The manual for my kawasaki is fooking stupid for chain tension. It mentions nothing about keeping an eye on the top chain run when measuring, which meant I over tightened my chain. I knew it couldn't be right cos when I sat on the bike the chain had no slack at all. It's so simple someone like you explains it properly!
Glad it was helpful
Two things there... You have not mentioned the need to shunt the non sprocket side up against the adjuster bolt. Secondly, the marks on the axle bolt block and the swinging arm you cant always trust. Best to either get a laser gadget, or do as i do and measure accurately the distances on each side from centre of swinging arm and centre of ear axle.
I had issues with a new sprocket and chain set i fitted. It had a loud whine, mostly when power on in midrange speeds. I too trusted the makers marks, but on this occasion they were a good few mm out. I set the correct alignment and the whine was better. Tip.. Use a ratchet or cam strap around the foot pegs and rear wheel to keep the rear wheel shunted up to the adjusters the whole time.
Cheers for the feedback and tips. Overall I’ve found that using my method has been great for shunting both sides simultaneously but can be different on each bike. Similarly, I’ve only have good experiences with the knotches on the swing up… this too could be down to my bikes. I’ve heard a lot about the laxer tools, seem to be a good idea
As others have rightly said, perfectly described and straight to the point. Instantly subbed. Thank you!
Thank you for watching 👍
Now, I have seen some people tighten the chain when the bike is on its side stand. i have seen others tighten the chain while the bike is on a centre stand. I have even seen people tightening the chain when using paddock stands. and ALL of them swear that theirs is the correct way.
Here you did yours on the centre stand but did not explain why.
Can you explain which method is best and why? My bike manual shows it being tightened when the bike is on its side stand.
I also use vernier calipers for accurate measurements as the notches despite being accurate are not accurate enough to the naked eye, while the vernier caliper's measurements are exact to 1000th of a mm.
i would first straighten the rear wheel, then check the slack of the chain, i found that straightening it affects the chain as well, so in your case it might be too much slack now... havent measured it yet, it just seems to me as i am doing it that it gets tighter when you adjust the other side...
Not noticed this my self but will keep a look out next time. Thank you
Can tightening your chain affect the rear suspension? I followed your instructions but ever since the rear shock has started to squeek.. any idea? Thanks.. great info.. for newbees like me
I have had it when a rear shock starts to squeak when the tension is set correctly. This is because it is allowing full move of the suspension . May be worth spray some grease around the shock mounting bolts.
This is a process that really alludes me but this video helps a lot with visualizing what's going on with each part. Most straight forward explanation of all of this. I've been trying to use those chain slack tools but I think I'll try the tape measure method and just use some basic math to figure it out because I honestly don't know if I'm even using the chain tool right to begin with lol.
Glad to hear this has been helpful! What is the chain slack tool?
@FabMotorbikes it's the motion pro chain tool. I really don't know how to properly measure with it because it has multiple moving parts but it's supposed to be more accurate.
I’ll look it up, thanks!
Hands down best explanation on TH-cam !!
Thank you. Just be sure to check if you should measure your chain slack on your centre stand, side stand, whilst sitting on your bike or on a paddock stand. I missed this bit out
Perfect video! I like to keep spare links and a chain breaker tool in my kit. After I clean my chain with ISO and a toothbrush, I use a toothbrush and 10W-30 oil to re-lube it. It drinks about 3 wide caps full. If you change your chain, change both sprockets as well, as parts that wear together repair together. If you power wash your bike, avoid directly blasting the chain, and clean and lube it right away.
Great tips. Glad you enjoyed the video
Such a beautiful video. To the point, all possible details mentioned and short. Perfect
Thank you, I hope it was useful
Indeed it was
Great video, but should this normally be done with a torque wrench?
My official answer is yes. But I have never used one in my 15 years of motorcycling
I did what you instructed. Then I held/rested a tape measure on the swingarm (not quite in the middle of the chain) rested the chain on the tape measure, moved the chain up being very careful that the tape didn't move and it gave the same measurement!!! ?
I don't understand all this faffing... Like I said, used the method shown on here and it gave the same measurement as simply holding the tape on the chain and moving it up (whilst keeping an eye on the top of the chain - Dave Moss). Had my bike for 17 years and rode it through every Winter.... The aforementioned has got me this far. I've scraped ice off my seat before leaving my friends once.
"England'istan" (Essex) Winters.
Sounds like you’re doing fine. 👍
Can you push back somehow the right side? If you tighten it too far? Aligning I mean.
The screw driver in the chain technique will do both sides 👍
Good video. I have had 2 belt drive BMWs and am on my second shaft drive Guzzi, and it's a long time since I adjusted a motorcycle chain. Just starting to think of replacing the Guzzi with something more mainstream and I need to overcome those distant memories of spannering and swearing in a cold car park to get the chain tension right. I had a chain snap once when I was an hour or two from home.
Great collection of bikes you have there!
I have to say… there is a part of me that looks forward to the day when I’m done with chain drive. They’re so messy and never truly last, even with the best maintenance.
However they’re really efficient and the breadth of bikes out there with them gives you plenty of choice!
@@FabMotorbikes Not a collection: a sequence, one at a time.
Had to laugh when I read that. Iv'e had a shafty since 92 !
When your video popped up I thought this will be interesting it's been a while since I had to do this.
Glad I did though I learned a couple of top tips from ya👍
Great video Mr F nicely done.
@kougerat5388 thank you! Lol . I completely get the appeal of shaft drives. None of this faff. 😂
what about the opposite side of the wheel? should adjust both to keep it centered..
As long as you check check ch deck it’s correct… adjusting both at once or individually is fine.
I feel that by not insuring there is no slack in the upper run of chain ( by having the bike in gear and rotating the wheel to tighten the top run) you induce error in your lower run measurement.
I gotta say, I have never heard of top slack being isolated from total slack. Unless the manual specifically says otherwise, I would include all slack for tension adjustment. That will tie in with searching for tight and lose spots as mentioned.
You're absolutely right. He's measuring slack wrong and everybody is buying into it.
Brilliant helpful video. Just one question (and probably a stupid one) - but when you put the spanner in the sprocket, how do you get it back out again without moving the wheel backward and hence undoing the tightening you've just done with it? DO you just keep rolling the wheel until it comes out?
Hi there. Once everything is done you can simply roll the wheel back the other way and the spanner will fall out. 👍
Great video, very detailed and objective at the same time! Thank you, I'll try this myself for the first time this weekend. What is the torque on the axel nut?
It’ll be depending on your bike. It should be available online somewhere or in your service manual
@@FabMotorbikes Yes I know, but I also have a fazer 600 S2, as you do, so I was asking what you use 😜
@hugopnabais ah apologies. To be honest I have never used a torque wrench on anything. Bad practice but have all been okay
@@FabMotorbikes thanks, as I have a torque wrench I will try to find it.
Quick, not fat, solid video! Well done!
Thank you!
So only loosen the adjuster at the sprocket side first? And the other one stays tight?
Good point! Loosen both. But it’s okay to adjust one at a time. They is just quadruple check the slack and the alignment continuously and once again when you’ve finished
Simple, Short & Straight to the point
Thank you for watching
Do bear in mind though most bikes can be way out for wheel alignment even if you have them symmetrically set on both sides.
It’s best to get this checked by a specialist who can correct front and rear alignment. Having had mine done, I found out that to be completely straight the left adjuster was set to 5 marks and right was around 6 marks. Crazy.
Great video by the way 👍
Great points. Thank you 👍
Wow! that's a great chain adjustment.
Thank you for letting me learn this maintenance. You're handsome!~
I appreciate all you say 👍
Is chain slack measured perpendicular to the chain, or to the floor?
To the chain. But the difference is minimal. But in the name of accuracy, perpendicular to the chain is best
I agree with you to find tight spot in chain if there is one, I disagree how to check tension, you need to pull down then up and take slack out of top of chain, or you be doubling up on your total slack, as priviously mentioned in other comments
I have a 2001 FZ1. Love it. In your opinion what is the new tires I should upgrade to? Thanks for the video!!!
I’ve always bought ‘Michelin pilot road’. I believe the series is up to its 4th version. They are great for real world riding (oppose to driving like you are on a track all the time). The rubber is harder in the centre of the tyre and softer on the edge where you need the grip
Thank you!
To my understanding the upper part of the chain has to be tight, so you have to push it has hard you can because the slag is only measured on the lower side.
I have learned a slightly loser chain is better than over tight. (Crank shaft bearings can be ruined). Also remember that, tension levels are immense and hard to replicate by hand. A margin for error is important. Thanks for watching and your interesting comment. Appreciate it 😊
Exactly my thought. Most bikes I've worked on have to have the rear wheel OFF the ground with the swingarm hanging, and the slack in the lower portion of chain is measured while upper portion of chain is tight with no slack. Not really sure what he is thinking doing it on the ground with the rear suspension loaded.
You are correct.
@@FabMotorbikes an over tight chain can affect the gearbox output shaft bearing and seal, not the crankshaft bearings. Top run of chain should have no slack, it's measured at the bottom without some unspecified level of slack at the top.
Placing a wrench in the chain to tighten things up is a nice tip. I'll remember this. 👍🏼
Should the slack should be measured when the bike is on the side stand or the center stand/paddock stand?
It really depends on what your user manual says. Mine says on the centre stand. Please check your user manual. Often you can find a digital user manual online
Excellent video, clear and to the point. Thank you 👍
Thank you. Glad to be of help
Thank you for being in depth, and informative. Watching this a long time ago would've saved me a lot of time and money.
Thank you. Glad it was useful. The. Only think I forgot to mention was that every bike will differ in regards to whether the chain will be adjust whilst on the side stand , centre stand or on a paddock stand. In my case the measurements are for when the bike is on the centre stand, therefore the slack will be looser.
Excellent, explained a few points other guides missed!! So back out to readjust again tomorrow after wrongly adjusting today! knew something wasn't right but hopefully now i have the right points to do it correctly! So don't want to ride with it too tight again like while back when nearly trashed the gearbox by overtightening!👍🤞
Thank you . Glad it came it use. Indeed too tight is just as bad as too lose!
When tightening the main bolt wheel back up at the end, do I need to use a torque wrench or is making sure it’s a fairly tight enough😊
My official response should be “use a torque wrench” . But I have honestly never done so. “Fairly tight” has worked for me
@@FabMotorbikes thank you yeah I’m going with the tighten it up then give it another half turn method
Absolute perfect sense no crap delivery..keep it up.
Thank you 😊
Good stuff. I liked the tyre shunting trick with the screwdriver. Learnt something thanks.
No worries 👍 glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching .
As you Said you need to set chain at the tightest spot of the chain.
I have questions
Is it normal to have tightest spot of chain and loosen spot of chain ?
As now i spec my motorcycle chain and found tightest spot of chain
Yes there will be both a tightest spot and loosest spot of chain. And the only way to find each is by feel.
What about torquing the axel nut?
I would recommend it. However I’ll admit in my 14 years of riding I have not torqued it down to specification once
Hi Fabian, a question from a rookie here, please. I used to have a bike with a different chain adjuster on your fz (I know it will also do the same job of course) base on my experience, after I got the perfect adjustment on my chain tension when I'm tightening the axel, the chain becomes tighter (I'm not using torque wrench) but it's not that tight, It just when I'm tightened up a bit from loose, overtime it keeps tighten up till I felt the lock nut is tight enough. And also, how do we determine if the tire alignment is correct? I used to look from the back of my bike and spin the wheel, also looking up the chain if it was straight enough to the front gear. Would love to hear another opinion and discuss it with a rider like you who used to adjust your chain by yourself. Many thanks
Hi Rio , they way to keep your axle still whilst tightening it up is to do my trick with the spanner in the chain at the same time as tightening everything up. All the hardware in the adjusters will be push and held up against each other in the opposite direction to which you are tightening up. Hence eliminating the chance of the axle moving back.
In regards to rear wheel alignment I’ve found using the notches on the swing arm just fine. Front wheel alignment is more difficult and will probably require a whole video 🤔
Hi Rio , they way to keep your axle still whilst tightening it up is to do my trick with the spanner in the chain at the same time as tightening everything up. All the hardware in the adjusters will be push and held up against each other in the opposite direction to which you are tightening up. Hence eliminating the chance of the axle moving back.
In regards to rear wheel alignment I’ve found using the notches on the swing arm just fine. Front wheel alignment is more difficult and will probably require a whole video 🤔
@@FabMotorbikes Thanks for the tips Fabian. Been trying to adjust my bike's chain over the last couple weeks. Still practicing to master this skill. Many thanks for the tutorial too
@@FabMotorbikes thanks Fabian, I've been practicing and adjusting my own chain now, I've been so worried after it but I keep looking you hack and seems working perfect! I keep working on this skill anyway. Thanks for the pro tips, very useful 😊
Hopefully you can answer this….
My motorcycle only has 2000 miles on it, but I had a tiny oil leak.
It goes into the shop running great, but it comes out with the oil leak fixed but now it’s knocking. Not bad but enough to notice it.
What could they have possibly done to cause this knocking ?
They also did the second service that included an oil change. They claim they did not make any valve’s adjustments.
I hate that it’s making this kind of noise when it’s just broken in.
Can you tell me where the knocking is coming g form exactly?
@@FabMotorbikes : if I’m close to the engine with my ears it sounds like it’s deep inside. Hard to tell if it’s top or bottom end. It doesn’t sound like valves because it’s not a ting sound (high pitch) but more of a two very solid metals hitting each other. (Low tone knock)
It does not seem to be coming from the transmission.
I can hear the low tone knock from both cylinders. As if it’s deep inside and radiating out.
It’s a 2022 Triumph Scrambler 1200xc.
Same engine they used in 90% of their bikes. There was an older triumph with 8000 miles at a gas station and he started it, and I did not hear that sound.
I’ve watch just about all the video on TH-cam BEFORE purchasing this bike and ZERO people complained about the engine. It’s a great engine.
This starts 35 seconds after I start the engine, and almost goes away but not quite two minutes into warm up.
So it’s not instantaneous, and it doesn’t go completely away because I can hear it while riding. Specifically in forth gear and just cruising, say fourth mph.
Most people wouldn’t hear it, but I studied the sounds from day one because the exhaust is stock and not loud, and I don’t ride with music, so I listen to everything this bike does. This engine did not knock.
There’s also a clunk coming from the swing-arm over a hard bump, which may be the chain, but this isn’t my problem.
If during the service the mechanic did not make any adjustment during the second service, then it might be the low grade fuel as you suggested.
I did find that this engine runs fine on 93 octane but does not like to start on 93 octane. I keeps turning over but eventually starts.
It starts and runs great on 87 octane.
So I go with the 87.
Location of noise is solid, deep, low tone, heard from both sides.
Although could very well be at the piston.
And thanks again.
@@ginoasci I have seen a similar thing in the past. It was a cbf250. The bike was almost brand new but it had a knocking because the wrong type of oil was used and there was not enough. This might be worth checking as a first port of call that won’t cost you much.
@@FabMotorbikes : my engine has too much oil.
I syphoned the gas out and filled the tank with fresh gas, then rode it for two days.
so that wasn’t it.
Is it possible that the engine mapping from the factory is corrupt or at least enough to cause a knocking???
If the tire isn’t on the same measurement ticks on both sides (left side is 5 and right is 4) would that be a reason that it feels like the rear tire is being pulled to the right? I had new tires put on recently and its felt off since.
Yes definitely would feel a bit off . Good on you for checking 👍
Such a good, straight to the point tutorial
Thank you
on almost all bikes i have had when you tighten the axle nut the chain will tention it self a bit. should i go with that messurement after the axle is tightend?
I have found this too. But worth measuring up again once everything is tightened up. It’s quite a repetitive process to get it right. But I feel it’s worth it. Thanks for watching
One thing id like to point out is you adjusted one side to the correct mesurment locked it all off then had to adjust other side of wheel back witch then would have put more tension on the chain leading to you doing the chain to tight again you need to take both sides back at the same time to get correct measurements on the chain
My way of having equal distance on both sides of the swingarm is to paint one side of the adjuster bolts. The I simply count the number of turns of each nut and ensure that they are equal. Simple but effective way to have the wheel well and truly aligned. I'm amazed no-one ever thought of this before.
Sounds great! Might try . Thanks for watching
Do you screw the big locking nut by hand or with 100NM precise? Any difference?
Overall, I have to recommend you screw down to the precise torque settings… although I have to admit I have never done this once in 14 years of riding and not had any problems
Forgot to loosen the adjuster on the other side of the bike, before doing the chain adjustment, any reason for this?
Might have got lost in the edit. But you can do one side at a time or both incrementally. The key is to check, check and check your work. The result is the most important thing
For the Versys 650 and the SV 650 the calibration marks meant for alignment are notorious for being off, hence chain alignment tools. Any thoughts on that? Would be awesome if you included a fail-safe to confirm proper chain alignment?
I guess I’ve been lucky with my bikes (Suzuki van van, sv1000, gs500 and Yamaha fazer Fz6) all alignment marking have been very good. The best suggestion I’ve received so far is a laser tool that sticks via a magnet to the rear sprocket. The laser points down the chain and it is clear to see if it is straight or not.
I far as I know they are fine to use unless the bike has been in an accident or been rear ended.
This makes sense.
Not got a stand at moment can you adjust chain without a stand has I seen the local garage do it to mine
Yes you can it’s a bit cumbersome as rather than rotating the wheel by hand you’ll have to push the bike backwards and forwards. With both of the wheels in the ground the chain will naturally be tighter, but still be sure to check it’s not over tight. As always it’s a process of checking And re-checking everything over and over until it’s perfect
Great video...putting the screwdriver into the chain to push wheel back in is the idea of the year 👍 👌
Thanks glad it was helpful 👍