Motorcycle Chain Adjustment WITH INSANE PRECISION
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2021
- In this video Fabien shows how he adjusts his motorcycle chain slack the most precise way possible. Motorcycle chain slack adjustment to extremely important and the chain should be adjusted very regularly.
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#Motorcycle #MotorcycleChain #MotorcycleMaintenance - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Excellent, no-BS advice. A lot of people will benefit from this. Thanks!
Thank you, glad it was helpful 👍
Couple of good points there. I have been adjusting chains for more than 40 years now, and I have never even considered looking out for movement on the top run. Also, wedging something between the chain and sprocket to pull everything forward is a great idea.
Thank you
yeah, i usually bang on stuff with a rubber or deadblow hammer, but the wedging trick seems much better.
@@FabMotorbikesThanks Fab, I have a metre long piece of 12mm bright round bar which I know is perfectly straight, I remove the chain guard and lay this bar on, or rather in,the top run of the chain. Pushing it as far toward to the drive sprocket as possible. Then I measure from the Bar to the front and back of the wheel rim, adjusting until equal measurements and the correct chain tension is arrived at. This gives perfect chain and front to back wheel alignment. ATB.
Ps, I've done this for years and think this is original as I've never heard of it before .
@@AshalielYou do need to be careful, as you can put a lot of strain in the chain.
You’ve been adjusting chains for 40 years and you’re complimenting someone else on their techniques, this makes you an open minded, mature, considerate, and you’ve got your ego in check.
I love people like you.
Several good tips here- thanks.
I appreciate how quickly you get into the actual subject.
Too many channels, on any subject, have a big production intro, followed by the presenter telling me what he’s going to teach me, followed by his telling me how qualified he is, which is of course, followed by him telling me at least 2 or three more times, what he’s about to teach me. At this point, I usually click to a different channel.. one that respects my time… like yours.
Thank you. I try to keep it to the point.
Thanks for a very HELPFUL video! Since we've had a winter storm in the eastern US, I've been doing projects on my bike; adjusting my chain and aligning the wheel is one of those projects. I've watched a few different videos, but they all left something out. Yours helped make sense, so I'll be able to set things right. Thanks! Cheers... :)
Awesome thank you. I’m glad it was helpful 👍
Thanks Fab, that's a handy tip about sticking a spanner in the sprocket to shunt the axle forwards.
You’re welcome. Glad you found it useful 👍
Clear and to the point. This helped me sort out my chain before our 2 week trip around the UK. Subscribed
Awesome! enjoy the tour!
Best explaining I’ve ever seen on a chain adjustment! Well done mate!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful 👍
So many little details make a big difference. Much appreciated! Didn't know most any of this. So many ways to get this wrong. I'll need to reference this video often until I get it all memorized. Thanks!
Thank you for watching! Glad it was useful
As others have rightly said, perfectly described and straight to the point. Instantly subbed. Thank you!
Thank you for watching 👍
Excellent directions on chain tightening, no waffle and infilling... great work
Thank you
Thank you Brother Fab for THE best instruction I ever saw on how to adjust your chain, subscribed!
Thank you . Hope it was useful 👍
Finally I find someone who shows me in a very understandable way how to set the right slack of the chain. Now I am confident in doing the chain on my KTM 1290r adventure. Thank you! 🤗
I’m glad to be helpful, thank you for watching 👍
@ragnar careful with KTM. You can't use his technique to measure the dead center where to search the tightest point. You have to take it somewhere after the chain slider under the swing arm. I have a Duke 890 R myself and KTM has its own peculiar way of measuring chain slack. !!
Didn’t know this. Thank you 👍
@@moulip Thank you for the information. Yes it´s a bit more hassle to get it right on the KTM.
Simple and easy, best chain tutorial I've seen till now, thanks bro!
Thank you
Excellent, explained a few points other guides missed!! So back out to readjust again tomorrow after wrongly adjusting today! knew something wasn't right but hopefully now i have the right points to do it correctly! So don't want to ride with it too tight again like while back when nearly trashed the gearbox by overtightening!👍🤞
Thank you . Glad it came it use. Indeed too tight is just as bad as too lose!
A good video guide for those who haven't done it before. One point I would like to add is that the alignment markings on the swing arm should NOT be relied on as accurate. OK for a rough setting but better to check the wheel alignment with a straight edge-preferably one each side of the wheel. I was amazed to learn how far out these factory markings can be!
For the absolute best accuracy get the wheels aligned by someone with a laser alignment kit. More precise than any eye measurements and you can actually feel the difference when riding. Quite a few bike shops have laser alignment kits these days.
Yea this is why I came here. Pretty sure my factory marks are off by 25% the distance between the etched lines. Exhaust and other stuff in the way of measuring from swingarm to rear axle bolt on both sides to confirm. I ordered a motion pro sight alignment tool that clamps to the chain, but not thrilled with the prospects of that, either. Also not thrilled with the price of the laser option but perhaps that's what it'll take to satisfy the standard I'm trying to acheive.
Absolutely correct. My Bandit 1200 chain adjusters are off by a FULL MARK. I recommend a "sprocket pointer tool, such as by Motion Pro, which latches on to your rear sprocket and has a stick/pointer that runs parallel with your chain edges.. a better form of adjustment.
Laser chain alignment tools are not that an expensive addition to your toolkit. I have profi-cat laser adjuster and with several bikes it gets enough use to justify its cost. I must have had it about 15 years and was amazed to see how much they cost now (mind you, I say that about the cost of everything) good tools pay for themselves over and over again! Don't work on your bike with its supplied toolkit (except in a roadside emergency), it's quality is very low, invest in some combination spanners, sockets, a few screwdrivers (jis and flat blades) and some allen keys. Aldi and lidl sell tools plenty good enough quality and in real terms tools have never been so cheap.
The trick of the wrench between the sprocket and chain is gold. Thanks.
no problem, glad to be useful
Bless this man
A piece of rag works even better.
Agreed
Agreed 👍
A very useful video & some helpful tips on tensioning the chain, which I didn’t know about & I have been riding bikes for more than 50 years! Thanks
Thank you
This is the best guide to chain adjustment I have ever seen. Spot on!
Thank you. Glad it was useful. One thing I forgot was to mention that you should make sure you measure your slack based on what is needed for your bike. E.g on my bike, it’s when it’s on the centre stand. But in yours it may be on the side stand or a paddock stand. They’re all different!
@@FabMotorbikes On mine it is the side stand. I ride a ZZR1400, and with the twin exhausts it's a real pain in the ass to do. I noticed it clunking more into first gear and from first to second last Saturday, so I thought I'd better adjust it. I've since cleaned the bike and chain but, this weekend I'll do the adjustment. Thanks again for your excellent video.
😊 no worries thanks for watching 👍
It would be worth mentioning that the slack measurement should be done as indicated in the user manual, most often on the side stand, not the central one like seen in the video.
Thanks for the tips 🤗
100% agree . I said this but, no where near clear enough. Every bike is different. This is for my bike . Thanks for watching
FZ6 has the measurement on the center stand with 45-55mm slack per user/service manual. And too loose is much better than too tight - you are more likely to destroy your chain if you are too religious with adjustments:)
Agreed 👍
@@h4xi0rek so it’s like growing a beard. Don’t try to make every hair perfect it never will be. Good advice. Thanks.
Measuring chain slack and finding the tightest section just using the side stand is a complete nightmare. Get a paddock stand to maintain static sag on the suspension and still turn the rear wheel without all the hassle.
Quick, not fat, solid video! Well done!
Thank you!
Perfectly concise and simple to understand.
Thanks bud.
Thank you. Glad it helpful
Thanks for going into this level of detail. I like the tip about pushing too hard and robbing slack from the top. I would not have considered that.
Glad it was useful. Thanks for watching
It's good that you didn't consider it because it's wrong.
Simple, Short & Straight to the point
Thank you for watching
Thank you for being in depth, and informative. Watching this a long time ago would've saved me a lot of time and money.
Thank you. Glad it was useful. The. Only think I forgot to mention was that every bike will differ in regards to whether the chain will be adjust whilst on the side stand , centre stand or on a paddock stand. In my case the measurements are for when the bike is on the centre stand, therefore the slack will be looser.
That Was Pretty Good, Man. I Did Not Know To Measure Between The Two Sprockets. Thank You.
Glad it was useful
This is the most in-depth & straight to the point video I've seen on this. I also wanted to mention the way you described the alignment technique you used (with wedging an object in between the chain/sprocket) was very clear & direct. Much appreciated brother
Thank you so much! Really glad you found it useful.
The only thing i forgot to mention was that slack measurements can differ from bike to bike, especially for those with out a centre stand.
Thanks again and ride safe!
@@FabMotorbikes Is it ok to do it on side stand especially when on a ride, roadside? And I guess the owners manual always show measurement using centre stand or paddock stand?
@@royarnab22 you can definitely do it while on the kickstand but if you want to do it the best way then you’re going to want to do it on a rear stand or rig something up to where your rear tire is off the ground. You don’t really want pressure on your rear tire from sitting on the ground while your bike is titled over like how it is on the kick stand. If you have to do it roadside emergency wise then you might want to check it and see if it need to be readjusted back at home with the tire suspended in the air.
This is the best tutorial Ive come across/ thank you for being so clear and concise
Thank you I hope it was useful
Good stuff. I liked the tyre shunting trick with the screwdriver. Learnt something thanks.
No worries 👍 glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching .
Absolutely brilliant...no BS...sharply delivered mate...Ride Safe!!!
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful. The only thing I would add is to check your manual in regards to measurements and whether you should be adjusting your chain on your centre stand or side stand. As that will differ from bike to bike. Ride safe!👍
Such a beautiful video. To the point, all possible details mentioned and short. Perfect
Thank you, I hope it was useful
Indeed it was
Hi Fabian,
You've educated me. I didn't know your trick of "shunting" the wheel forward by using a screwdriver between the rear sprocket and chain. Thank you.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful
Your explanations are fantastic, great attitude and delivery..
Thank you 😊 I’m glad the video was useful 👍
Great attention to detail!! Thanks heaps from NZ :)
Thank you for watching! Hope it was useful 👍
Hands down best explanation on TH-cam !!
Thank you. Just be sure to check if you should measure your chain slack on your centre stand, side stand, whilst sitting on your bike or on a paddock stand. I missed this bit out
Thx for the video its the same setup as on my CSC RX4.... I have been neglecting doing the chain adjustment and had alot of slack..... I was to nervous to do it before solo... Video helped a lot :-)
Glad to be of service! FYI the measurements given are for my bike specifically. Please check your manual
@@FabMotorbikes I followed the measurements that was printed on the swing arm…. My china bike manual is trash ☠️
Thank you Sir. Great video. Sharp and illustrative. The tip in using a screwdriver to assist moving the axle forward was brilliant. Off to tighten mine. Thanks from the antipodes (Australia)🦘.
Thank you for watching
Very real world Fab by working on a bike that is obviously regularly used and not one of those showroom "licked clean" machines that is so unbelieveable and unrealistic. This is just good and honest. Keep on keeping on dude. Thumbs up!
thank you! I appreciate that. all the best
I love my garage queen, I'm able to keep it in showroom condition with baby wipes and quick detailer. I don't even get it wet to wash it. My kit is just as clean. Each to their own I say. If you're happy riding a mucky looking thing then that's fine too. But for me, nothing like turning heads with a sparkling clean bike, which I do whenever I ride mine. I also never get asked to remove my helmet at petrol stations for fuelling or payment probably because my bike always looks brand new. I enjoy cleaning it too so it's a double win for me. My car is just as well looked after.
Such a good, straight to the point tutorial
Thank you
Life saver. I adjusted the axle nut too far back and I didn't know how to push it back forward. That trick at 3:39 saved me
Glad it helped you
I just kick the wheel when that happens.
Thanks for this mate. The manual for my kawasaki is fooking stupid for chain tension. It mentions nothing about keeping an eye on the top chain run when measuring, which meant I over tightened my chain. I knew it couldn't be right cos when I sat on the bike the chain had no slack at all. It's so simple someone like you explains it properly!
Glad it was helpful
Absolute perfect sense no crap delivery..keep it up.
Thank you 😊
Thank you, I’m new to all this. I’ve learned a lot here. 👍🏻
Thank you. Glad it was helpful. I’d recommend watching as many different videos as you can. All have great points and also none are perfect.
Lots out there to learn 👍
Excellent video. Thanks.Greetings from the NJ shore USA.
Thank you!
Thanks for the tips! Excellent video!
Thank you
TH-camrs to this day still cannot explain the process this good
thank you
thank you fab, wish you good health and success always
Thank you so much! Best comment ever 👍
Very good! In depth and to the point.
Thank you
In depth and easy to follow, thanks
Thank you glad it was helpful 👍
Outstanding presentation! Thanks.
Glad it was useful. Thank you for watching 👍
While its up, lube that chain and give it a wipe. I check for sprocket wear and if the chain can be lifted off the rear sprocket (indicating chain wear). String lining/laser measurements are generally overkill in my opinion, yes a lot are out but I'd bet not one of us could tell the difference (MC Mech +30yrs exp). Thumbs up for the clear instruction and hints.
Thank you i
Agree, but I will one up you. Clean and lube BEFORE adjusting. A loosened up chain can affect adjustment quite a bit vs a dirty/binding one. Plus there is no sense to adjust if it turns out that the chain fails inspection.
This is a process that really alludes me but this video helps a lot with visualizing what's going on with each part. Most straight forward explanation of all of this. I've been trying to use those chain slack tools but I think I'll try the tape measure method and just use some basic math to figure it out because I honestly don't know if I'm even using the chain tool right to begin with lol.
Glad to hear this has been helpful! What is the chain slack tool?
@FabMotorbikes it's the motion pro chain tool. I really don't know how to properly measure with it because it has multiple moving parts but it's supposed to be more accurate.
I’ll look it up, thanks!
Great video...putting the screwdriver into the chain to push wheel back in is the idea of the year 👍 👌
Thanks glad it was helpful 👍
Wow! that's a great chain adjustment.
Thank you for letting me learn this maintenance. You're handsome!~
I appreciate all you say 👍
You say that adjusting the axle block and comparing to notches on the swingarm is the best and only way, that's only true if those notches are accurate, many bikes come from the factory with those settings out of whack, both screw type or snail cams can be out by quite a bit, you'll also lose accuracy with worn parts like bearings, for true accuracy set the axle to the same notches on both sides, then use a long rod with a sliding pointer and measure from the swingarm pivot to the axle pivot, the measurement should be exactly the same on both sides of the bike, with that established and with compensating for any inaccuracies you can properly adjust the chain, distance between the swingarm pivot and center of axle are all that matters, always treat the adjustment markings as suspect. excellent video.
Good video. I have had 2 belt drive BMWs and am on my second shaft drive Guzzi, and it's a long time since I adjusted a motorcycle chain. Just starting to think of replacing the Guzzi with something more mainstream and I need to overcome those distant memories of spannering and swearing in a cold car park to get the chain tension right. I had a chain snap once when I was an hour or two from home.
Great collection of bikes you have there!
I have to say… there is a part of me that looks forward to the day when I’m done with chain drive. They’re so messy and never truly last, even with the best maintenance.
However they’re really efficient and the breadth of bikes out there with them gives you plenty of choice!
@@FabMotorbikes Not a collection: a sequence, one at a time.
Had to laugh when I read that. Iv'e had a shafty since 92 !
When your video popped up I thought this will be interesting it's been a while since I had to do this.
Glad I did though I learned a couple of top tips from ya👍
Great video Mr F nicely done.
@kougerat5388 thank you! Lol . I completely get the appeal of shaft drives. None of this faff. 😂
You should adjust both sides together, so keeping the wheel aligned when checking tension. With this method, you got your tension perfect by only using one adjuster, then aligned the other side which would have changed the tension again. Thanks for the other tips, I will try them next time I adjust.
Thanks for the tips I do agree. Although I find that the key is to keep checking, checking and checking again. Things often annoyingly move.
@@FabMotorbikes That's true 👍
You said what I was thinking. I always do 1/4 turn on one side, then the other, then check. Down to smaller adjustments if needed but always to both sides
An excellent and clear explanation. Thank you so much.
Thank you for watching. Please note that the slack amount will differ per bike and whether you have a centre stand, side stand or use a paddock stand 👍
The end of the chain slider on top of the swingarm is usually halfway and where manufactures tell you to check tension. No need to measure the whole thing and then half👍🏼
If you say *usually * then perhaps there is a need for measuring - 4 seconds job.
Excellent! Great video!!! Thank you.
Thank you watching
Many thanks! I so needed this video.
Thanks. Glad it was useful
Great explenation! Thanks!
No worries. Glad it was helpful 👍
Great vid! Thanks for posting. Subscribed! Ride safe…
Thank you!
Do bear in mind though most bikes can be way out for wheel alignment even if you have them symmetrically set on both sides.
It’s best to get this checked by a specialist who can correct front and rear alignment. Having had mine done, I found out that to be completely straight the left adjuster was set to 5 marks and right was around 6 marks. Crazy.
Great video by the way 👍
Great points. Thank you 👍
Thanks for the tips.
No worries. Thanks for watching
Thanks alot Brother !! Tomorrow I will try all tips on my Aprilia strada650 ;)
No problem glad it was helpful!
Hey 👋🏽 awesome 👏🏾 and very well done! All in one ☝🏽 really!!!!
Thank you! I really appreciate that
Good video, useful comments 👍 thanks a bunch 😊.
Thanks for watching. Reading comments is great way to iron out the errors😊. Good on you 👍
This was actually great!
Thank you
@@FabMotorbikes no, thank you!
Great little video. 👍
Thank you
Brilliant video!
Thank you!
Nice job and thank you!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful
My way of having equal distance on both sides of the swingarm is to paint one side of the adjuster bolts. The I simply count the number of turns of each nut and ensure that they are equal. Simple but effective way to have the wheel well and truly aligned. I'm amazed no-one ever thought of this before.
Sounds great! Might try . Thanks for watching
Very well explained, thank you.
Thank you
Nicely done, I enjoyed the video!
Thank you
Great video man, keep it up!
Thank you!
I think to measure total slack, you have to push the chain all the way down as far as it can go then up as far as it can go. I believe this is the only way to standardize the measurements and according to motorcycle manufacturers.
Correct
This is a tip I learned from Dave moss tuning. (Great channel by the way). It ensures maximum suspension travel and reduces the risk of over tightening.It’s not for everyone. And it’s definitely not an official manufacturing recommendation.
@@FabMotorbikesthen you didn't may attention. Cause Dave Moss clearly said to push (up AND down) the chain on the bottom side till it starts to rise on the top side. In other words: measure WITHOUT overtensioning the chain when measuring
@@lillnemo1I’m pretty sure he addresses this in the video..
I think you do want to measure both up AND down (which I think he says in the video) however you want to do so without the other side of the chain also moving. (Otherwise it would be an immaculate measurement).
good instructions. thx !
Thank you !
You've got to watch a few videos on this because every TH-camr has something to add to the technique.
100% agree!
Great video, kudos to you for it.
Thank you
Thanks man ! Big help
Thank you for watching glad it was useful
Bajaj motorcycles have this really great chain adjuster disc. You just loosen the bolt, twist the disc to the next number or lower number for adjusting. The same is present on the other side and if you have set both the discs on same number then your wheel will be perfectly aligned.
Very useful, thanks for helping me.
Thanks. Glad it was useful
Good man, cheers!
Thank you
Thanks! great tutorial
You’re welcome, glad the video was useful
Great video, lots of useful tips, good camera work
Thanks you. Glad it was helpful
FIRST check your alignment with the front wheel dead straight, then string-line the rear straight. If the axle markings agree, only then trust them for the rest of your bike's life.. if you haven't crashed. Forks can be tweaked, frames can be skewed so the swingarm pivot/rear axle method can be wrong. Only front/rear tyre sighted perfectly inline can ensure perfect alignment. They'll give anyone a TH-cam channel.
Hi cheers for your video, I have just bought an alignment tool to clamp onto the sprocket to double check my swing arm markings as they are known to be out on most bikes. I can in theory look down the chain via a rod to eye it up. Has anybody used one of these tools as well?
I’ve not used one. But I do think they’re a great idea.
I've played with those. Problem is there often isn't open space for them to do their thing.
A great video with some great tips - i especially like the idea of putting something between the chain and rear sprocket to temporarily increase tension, and your tips on finding the centre between sprockets and watching the top of the chain while you deflect the bottom. I do take mild exception to your description of how to verify alignment as "the best and only way"; as noted by other comments, there are reasons why that may not be the case for everyone.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the feedback!
Nice job man thx
Thanks 🙏
Brilliant explanation 👍
No problem 👍
Great Video!
Thank you. Hope it was useful
@@FabMotorbikes But Ofcourse!
I like the tip of using something to jam in the sprocket to tension everything up while torquing the axle nut. My '74 Norton Commando really changes chain tension b/c of axle movement when torquing the axle bolt. Will try your tip.
Although you stated your tension spec was for bike on center stand, might want to emphasize why that is important. Many folks see the slack spec and just measure it with bike on side stand, centerstand (if equipped) or a paddock stand. It is critical to know what the spec is meant to be measured at (side, center stand or even with weight of rider sat on bike etc.) b/c the swing arm is not pivoting exactly where the front sprocket rotates...the slack spec needs to take this difference into account for the given geometry bike.
I completely agree, I should have emphasised more than I did that this is for my bike only . It’s different for side stands and paddock stands
Two things there... You have not mentioned the need to shunt the non sprocket side up against the adjuster bolt. Secondly, the marks on the axle bolt block and the swinging arm you cant always trust. Best to either get a laser gadget, or do as i do and measure accurately the distances on each side from centre of swinging arm and centre of ear axle.
I had issues with a new sprocket and chain set i fitted. It had a loud whine, mostly when power on in midrange speeds. I too trusted the makers marks, but on this occasion they were a good few mm out. I set the correct alignment and the whine was better. Tip.. Use a ratchet or cam strap around the foot pegs and rear wheel to keep the rear wheel shunted up to the adjusters the whole time.
Cheers for the feedback and tips. Overall I’ve found that using my method has been great for shunting both sides simultaneously but can be different on each bike. Similarly, I’ve only have good experiences with the knotches on the swing up… this too could be down to my bikes. I’ve heard a lot about the laxer tools, seem to be a good idea
Agree with that Tom and I use the Profi Laser CAT which is brilliant and so fast.
Best chain adjustment guide I've seen. Thanks for including the all important observation of the top chain movement - If the chain on top is moving while you're pushing up on the bottom part of the chain, you're pushing too hard. Thanks for making this super clear, concise, and complete.
Thank you. Glad it was useful. The. Only think I forgot to mention was that every bike will differ in regards to whether the chain will be adjust whilst in the side stand , centre stand or on a paddock stand. In my case the measurements are for when the bike is on the centre stand, therefore the slack will be looser.
Interesting and well informed video. Just to add, on my nc750x it doesn't matter if you measure the slack on side stand or center stand. The results are the same.
Interesting thank you
Thank you. That’s really helped me. I now feel confident enough to do it to my bike
No problem! Glad you found it useful.
I will say one thing I left out is… make sure you check the measurements from your manual and whether you should adjust it with the bike on its side stand or centre stand (if you have one). Every bike is different.
Happy to answer any questions too 👍
Thanks for the idea to use a spanner in the sprocket to stop the axle pulling the chain tighter when doing up the large nut. That has bugged me on my current bike for five years. Never had this problem before. Finally I can end the repeated checking and readjusting that made the whole job take four times longer.. brilliant.😊
Glad to be of help!
All very useful, thanks, especially the shoving a spanner in tricks! Question, why is the centre-point of the chain not marked on the swing-arm by the manufacturer??
I’ve been told that the centre point is the end of the plastic chain runner in the top of the swing arm… but I think they don’t mark it as the centre can change as the wheel moves backwards.
I have a 2001 FZ1. Love it. In your opinion what is the new tires I should upgrade to? Thanks for the video!!!
I’ve always bought ‘Michelin pilot road’. I believe the series is up to its 4th version. They are great for real world riding (oppose to driving like you are on a track all the time). The rubber is harder in the centre of the tyre and softer on the edge where you need the grip
Thank you!
Well done. Very nicely explained. Got my like.
Thank you 👍
One thing id like to point out is you adjusted one side to the correct mesurment locked it all off then had to adjust other side of wheel back witch then would have put more tension on the chain leading to you doing the chain to tight again you need to take both sides back at the same time to get correct measurements on the chain