Blastwave Antweight Battlebot Pt 2 - Completion
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2019
- It's finally done! Blastwave is my first attempt at a kinetic energy weapon, and it's been a great learning experience. Join me next time as I detail my first competition and how each match went.
Stomp-Bot: • Building A Battlebot F...
Weapon Motor: hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar...
Weapon Belt: www.servocity.com/0-125-1-8-o...
Weapon ESC: hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-p...
Drive ESC: www.vexrobotics.com/276-2193....
Receiver: www.endbots.com/collections/r...
Radio: www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...
Power Switch: www.fingertechrobotics.com/pr...
LED: www.endbots.com/collections/l...
Wheels: www.fingertechrobotics.com/pr...
Wheel Hubs:www.fingertechrobotics.com/pr...
Micro Metal Gearmotors (1000 RPM)(Not the same seller): www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-1000R...
M1.6 Screws (Drive Motor): www.servocity.com/1-6mm-18-8-...
Music provided by Monstercat:
Ephixa & Heartful - Sundance
F.O.O.L - Time Spender
PYLOT - A Race Against Time
/ monstercat
/ monstercatinstinct
Song: 2080 - Ephixa & Heartful
Music provided by Ninety9Lives
Video: • Ephixa & Heartful - 20...
Download: 99l.tv/2080YU - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Nice report! It was fun fighting you at Nationals too!
Thanks! It was super fun fighting at Nationals, I should hopefully have the videos from that up sometime relatively soon.
now this is epic
Two ESCs in a row not working or the shoddy solder everywhere? Its the ESCs! IMO, you bridged something, somewhere.
Cute robot! Some good ideas in there.
This is super cool! Great that you expand your horizons outside of vrc
nice build report!
Its crazy you had that many issues with the multi-star ESC. ESCs are usually way more plug and play then that.
Thanks a lot!
I’m really not sure what was up with the ESCs. I wonder if the multi-star ESCs have some issue with quality control or something, either that or I was just unlucky with the two I got.
Try a splitter on the switch. One connector plugs into the drive while the other goes to the weapon.
Awesome video! I'm definitely hoping to get around to doing something like this about my own builds one day. Also: I feel your pain with the ESC woes. I was working on putting together the second revision of my beetleweight Division and upon trying to test one of my ESCs I heard a loud pop, everything turned off, and my battery started swelling. If I hadn't unplugged everything in time I very well may have had a battery explosion. This was especially problematic since I was using a battery that has no problem dumping over 100 amps at once. Thankfully the battery deflated and seems okay and nothing else was damaged. ESC solder got hot enough that it melted and disconnected itself from the motor before that fried as well. Having your receiver and motor drivers killed too sounds pretty awful and expensive. I'm currently planning to use these for my weapon and they are reprogrammable with a $15 DYS USB Linker which is pretty sweet. NIDICI BLHeli_32 Bit 35A ESC. Might work for you if you plan to use a more powerful motor later on.
Thanks! There’s always the risk of breaking something during assembly, and that’s almost worse than breaking something in the arena! I’ve heard really good things about the BLheli ESCs, I might end up using them in the next revision.
Great video, one slight correction, without getting too into the weeds on electrical terminology it would be more accurate to describe your motor wiring mistake something like:
"I had wired the motors in series which not only cut the voltage in half for each motor, but also drastically reduced the torque. Wiring them in parallel fixed this issue by allowing all the motors to get maximum voltage."
If you wanted you could also show another odd effect of wiring this drive setup with the motors in series by running the bot, then slowing one wheel down. Might be cooler looking with some marking on the wheels to more easily see the speed variations.
Looks cool. I strongly suggest not using electrical tape for insulation. Especially on small wires it will be very unreliable and you're going to get shorts....heat shrink is the way to go.
What was your design for tower takeover that you didn't finish?
To reduce friction from the bearings you can remove the seals and clean out the grease. The bearings will run fine dry for the amount of time you'll be using them.
I know this video was a while back, but what filament did you use? I'm looking to make a fairy weight robot.
PLA, just the standard cheap stuff. It held up pretty well, even in version two of Blastwave, which took a fair number of hits.
Do a ESC throttle calibration and you probably won’t need negative throttle trim. Google it, but it teaches the ESC your TX pulse range on that channel. I’d do it with the trim set at the desired value.
Nice video, the fast and concise commentary adds a lot.
If you have not already, turn off the cooling fan on your printer. It greatly increases layer adhesion. CNC Kitchen has some good videos on it. There are a few cheaper options for a beater bar, mainly water jet cutting thick sheet like team panic's "don't need roads" or a simpler cnc, like on sgt. Cuddles V3.
Oh, and I found that when I was not running my cooling fan, small fillets didn't print well. I would stick to 4-5mm radius and above
The problem with water jet was the pulley in the center. In hindsight, that could have been done on a lathe, but as this was my first project designing in cad and building later, I hadn’t really known what techniques to use to get what result.
I’ll have to see if that works on my printer, thanks for the suggestion!
@@KeplerElectronics Out of curiosity, is there a reason that you went with a central pulley? Also, when running fiberology easy PLA without the cooling fan and at about the highest temperature possible, the layer adhesion was so good that I couldn't remove the supports. I had to redesign my parts so that they could be printed without supports, and in some cases cad simple, custom supports that I could remove more easily. So keep that in mind.
@@akinz3079 I went with the central pulley because if the motor was mounted to the center, the belt would have to go around the drive motors. Mounting it centrally meant that it wouldn't interfere with the motors.
I'll have to try that. With the new design for Blastwave, it should also have less surface area attached to the bed, so hopefully I won't have to go through the process of cadding custom supports!
Make more battlebot vids pls specially the build
Thanks
you use brass to unsolder things
How can you have metal on your robot and still be under 1 pound? My antweight is overweight and it's all plastic (I haven't even finished the chassis yet!)
It’s all about size and budgeting. This bot was really huge for an ant, but the plastic was mostly hollow. If it’s an ant, 5 mm should be alright for thickness at 100% infill (assuming you are printing the chassis) The other important thing is size. Choose motors and wheels and such that are small, and then design the chassis so there is not much wasted space.
Can you make a version with no background music? My hearing isn't great and the white noise makes it very difficulty to hear you.
Unfortunately, I don’t have the source files anymore. I might be able to re export the last couple videos without audio, or at least will try to do it going forwards. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though, I appreciate it.
@@KeplerElectronics thanks! Love the videos!
How much did this cost?
All in about $600 if I remember correctly. That did include buying two radios, wheels that I never used, and blowing up a few electronic parts, so assuming none of that, it should run closer to $300, including a few spares.
@@KeplerElectronics oh damn this isnt including the 3d printer right?
No, but the printer I’m currently using is only ~$260, so not too crazy.
@@KeplerElectronics ok thanks