How to NOT Blow Up Your Robot - Motors, Batteries, ESCs and More Explained! (How To Choose Parts)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มิ.ย. 2024
- Today I want to talk primarily about what all the specifications and numbers on each component even mean, and how to pick a full system of parts that will work together. In the combat robotics world, we use a lot of the same exact electronics as are used in other robotics projects, RC cars, planes, and drones. These all often have a ton of numbers on their product pages, and I want to break down what these all mean, and how you can choose the right parts to ensure your project or robot doesn’t blow up. I will also briefly talk about how a lot of these ratings can be misleading, or just downright lies, and what you should be looking out for. I’ll also show examples of a couple of products that do the same thing and the differences between them.
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OG Electronics Video: • Combat Robot Electroni...
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Lipo 650mAh 4S: amzn.to/3pM8lcc
Brushless ESCs: amzn.to/3iE2iVx
BEC: amzn.to/3wm7TE1
2205 Motor: amzn.to/35hYq4I
Propdrive V2 2836 3000kV: hobbyking.com/en_us/propdrive...
BE1806 Motor: bit.ly/be1806-ebay
Emax RX2205 2600kV: amzn.to/3vjjoL1
Power Meter: amzn.to/2Tsktmo
Bristol Bot Builders webstore: shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/
Bristol Bot Builders Ant ESC: shop.bristolbotbuilders.com/p...
DFRobot Motor/ESC Combo: www.dfrobot.com/product-1487....
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0:00 What's This About
1:10 Intro
2:49 Batteries
7:36 Speed Controllers
9:50 Thermals
11:17 Current Usage in Robots
14:21 BEC
15:17 Brushless Motors
18:20 Similar Motor Comparison
21:45 Pushing the Limits
25:28 My Own Choices
30:50 Closing - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I've generally just started judging components by the wire gauge that they come with. A 50A esc that comes with 18GA wire is a pretty good indication that the current rating is BS.
No, it just comes with built-in fuses :).
Great vid. There aren’t enough sources that explain stuff like this in an approachable way
I've been looking for a video like this, thank you! Being new at (wanting to) build isn't easy when there are hundreds of numbers and options everywhere. I'll probably need to rewatch a few times to grasp everything as I'm still a bit confused on things, but thanks for making this!
Thank you! I agree it is a lot to learn and I hope some of my other tutorial videos can make things a bit easier. I'm also working on compiling more resources for new builders into one place that can be linked on my website.
So much to learn!!! I've got most of everything figured out on my 150g build. Weapon motor has been giving me a fit, so more research for me.
Nice video, I feel sad for the dfrobot esc that you put > 12v into. The dfrobot integrated escs I'm sure are really intended for arduino-y non-combat applications which run at 5v or 6v, which they do ok.
I designed the BBB "Red ESC" because we felt that the dfrobot ones were a bit unsuitable for robot combat, often failing after a while on 2S voltages. But the Red ESC really isn't intended for 12 volts, that's about the absolute maximum rating for its components.
This is such a good video!
Awesome video, great info!
Thank you!
Great video, I am currently trying to build a 150 gram ant weight (us fairy weight) and I am looking for a small lipo battery that I can recharge any advice?
I have not built any 150g bots but Bristol Bot Builders has you covered: bristolbotbuilders.com/guides.html
Probably you want a 2S lipo pack between about 120 - 300mAh - Hobbyking have stopped doing the really nice 180mah packs they used to have. There are some suppliers around, componentshop.co.uk have a 120mah pack which looks nice but I haven't tried it (I still have stock of the discontinued HK ones). Remember to use a balance charger for all packs with more than one cell.
Since bots usually have metal chassis with good heat conducting properties, would it make sense to mount the ESC's to the chassis with a thermal compound to transfer the heat away from the ESC? Or wouldn't it really matter unless you have some active cooling?
Maybe! In theory anything that helps removes heat can help. But you would need a way to ensure that contact remains in place throughout a fight which could be harder than it sounds. It's not something I would rely on per se
I've been looking for a video like this for a while! A lot of the N20 motors I find online are rated for 6 volts, but I am using a 2s lipo battery (7.4 V). Would running this setup burn out the motors?
Brushed motors are generally able to deal with more voltage than their rating up to roughly 150%, but the higher you go the shorter the lifespan will be. Will it still survive a number of fights? Probably. How many? No clue.
@@JustCuzRobotics Cool! Thanks for the information
I’m a drone builder/flyer that are thinking of getting into this hobby.. most motors are no longer cw or CCW. Do you use any specific receiver? I am assuming you just go receiver to esc via pwm signal?
Plenty of drone or RC plane/car receivers will work for robots. Any that take PWM can work with almost any ESC.
Generally, for motors of the same size, if the KV goes down, the amps go up
Power may go up but current should not. Lower KV motors sometimes can use higher voltages.
Thank u :)
Sure!
26:20 "Gear reduction err uhhh pulley reduction"
I do this constantly. Constantly constantly constantly.
Doesn't help when the same bot uses both... 😅
Will a lithium ion battery also work? Because of the burning danger lipos have i don't want to use them.
If your robot has no spinning weapon maybe. But Li Ion is limited to
I just killed an esc I thought was the right rating (45a esc/1800kv 3530 motor on a rc rock crawler on 3s. The esc was for a drone and worked well til it didn’t. I’m thinking I need a higher amp rating esc, it was a heat issue or my bullet connectors touched. Any tips would be helpful.
You can always try a different ESC and make sure to tape over the bullets to eliminate that possible issue. Otherwise getting a $20 IR thermometer can help to determine if parts are overheating. Just run for a little while and check the temps on the motor and ESC. Need to use masking tape on the motor to ensure the reflective metal is read accurately.
@@JustCuzRobotics thanks for the tips.
Can you also make a video wher jou show how to build featherweights ?
One video showing the entire build process would be like 16 hours long lol. That's not possible.
@@JustCuzRobotics mebay you can make more video's
I'm really late to the party but a lithium polymer battery uses a polymer electrolyte, the prismatic cell being plastic is unrelated
Oh really? I have read that ages ago somewhere and didn't question it. Whoops.
so basically trust big boys if you don't mind the weight
In probably 99% of cases the super oversized esc's are not worth it. But if you really aren't tight on weight or space at all they will definitely work
“Big Chungus here”
But was I wrong though?
@@JustCuzRobotics Never said you were wrong, it is indeed big chung
Wait, im 1 of 4? im 35th Like
The average viewer is watching less than a third of the video, I think most people hit 'like' near the start
@@JustCuzRobotics for whatever it's worth, I'm putting off watching until I can focus on it properly.