🐔 If you have any cool tips you'd like to share with others drop them here. Use this 🐔 icon when posting if you'd like me to include your tip in one of the future videos!
Bouns tip 06: every womderd if you have enough or too much light ? Use the fake colour feature on the filmic drop-down toggle in the samples pannle .. turn it on then your seance will be come a range of colours from blue to while ... Blue been to dark and white been too bright. Try to friend a good balance of green to yellow .. Remember to turn off the feature before you render
Bonus tip 07: switch from filmic to RTX . Why do it matter ? RTX is made by the same develop for filmic remember flimic gave us more realistic and vibrant colours now RTX gives us richer colour
@@mukondeleliratshilavhi5634 "flimic gave us more realistic and vibrant colours" No it didn't. It gave us *less* vibrant colors. It sacrificed saturation in order to increase the variation across a larger dynamic range. More realistic? Sure, if you're old enough to remember how film emulsion reacted to exposure worked. It was a fast one-click solution compared to the tone mapping abilities we have in Blender, and a no brainer to use. So I could use it. I've worked with tone mapping before, but I could never get anything "more nice" out of Blenders builtin tools. As for tips, see own big post below. I didn't read this before I posted, so 😅
This video was great!! I've watched many Blender tutorials even though I'm quite familiar with the program, and you are the only one to mention the double sun technique that's quite common professionally but rarely seen in tutorials, and I also learned quite a bit about render settings, great job!
simplify was my favorite. I searched for longer a method to decrease my 4k textures automatically in my test renders. Really a lot of helpful informations. Thanks for your efforts.
This video is a fricken gem. I thought about using color channels like that before, but I had no idea it could work so well! Bonus is that you can use it on any material, no extra maps needed if you don't have them.
You know this is the greatest pro video that I've ever seen because it includes excellent tips that make anyone improve and develop our skills so thanks you very much for making this tutorial
I've seen dozens of "architectural glass" shaders over the years and nobody ever truly explains exactly what is going on and what makes one better than the other. I prefer the ones that do everything via the light path node so I don't have to remember to go into every glass object and and uncheck ray visibility options.
Wow these are PRO tips! First time I had to slow down a blender tutorial and pay full attention & I normally have to watch tutorials at 1.5x speed to get through unhelpful chit-chat
Some comments: 1) If you make the sun have a bigger angular diameter, this is something that only happens through clouds or mist, so also reduce the sun power. If the idea is to make the sun more interesting, I suggest adding something in front of it to cast shadows into the scene; trees, street lights, curtains, and so on. 2) Using sun lamps instead of Nishita sun, you can separate sun & sky into different Light Groups. I also separate interior lights of different purposes into different light groups. Downside is you have to tweak the values and color for the sun lamps to match sun from Nishita Sun & Sky. This allows far greater flexibility in post compared to having to re-render. 3) I have no idea why anyone would desaturate Nishita Sun & Sky, these two components have vastly different tonalities you want to keep, especially that warm low sun and/or very blue overcast (if white balanced for an indoor shot). 4) Don't say "use 3600K lights", it's better to lookup the luminaire and what practices are used in the region. Here typical indoor "warm lighting" starts at 2700K which is a bit on the warm side compared to other places, up to 3000K. 2500K also exist but are typically found to be too warm. Used in bedrooms and living rooms. 3000K-3400K (kitchens) for more balanced warmth, and 3600K-4000K (kitchens, bathrooms) for more "neutral" colors, even if those temperatures are still warmer than actual neutral (daylight) of around 5500K-6500K. Upper limit should be 4000K-5000K, and have limited use like garages. I'm even staying away from daylight balanced lights in offices (which is what I do); they may be "more realistic" but I prefer "more pleasing". Yes, 2700K will obviously tint the image "horrifically", that's why you should render out a "white patch", measure its color, and put the RGB values into CM curves RGB white point. Or in post, but I prefer seeing the result directly in preview. I'll use a slightly desaturated version as I prefer to keep some warmth in there. This will neutralize this "horrific" color cast from the light, but at the same time shift the outside Nishita Sun & Sky more towards cooler tones. There is nothing "wrong" with choosing to neutralize all color cast. It may absolutely be what you're going for, and you may think it improves the image quality. But it has nothing to do with "realism". This sterile look in interior renderings is just something I'm not a big fan of personally. I definitely prefer warm and inviting colors possibly in combination with blue hour exterior to really contrast those colors. But hey, I have a photographer background, so I have my biases for sure 😄 5) Use lens shift where appropriate. But also don't overdo it. Looking down from 2nd floor or even higher to the 1st floor will look super wacky relying on lens shift. If the tilt gets extreme, it's better to rely on actual tilt than lens shift. For top down views, don't forget you can get away with some horizontal lens shift too - to avoid that pesky wall showing up in contour only. 6) On area lamp shapes. Be aware of what the spread function do; it reduces to zero rather than some customizeable level, which means at some angle it will fade to black. It may be better to use two lamps and instance those around as a collection; one strong and focused one and another weaker but unfocused, and/or in combination with strength controls for camera/single glossy rays to control aliasing stepping. Unless barn doors are used, the strong translucent surface will be visible from "anywhere" even if the light is focused. I'm really not a fan on how spread is implemented in Blender, or how easily sampled tube lights are still missing. But hey, at least there's been some progress, so... 7) For "thin glass", approach is good enough, although I use power 5 add 0.05 which is remarkably close to fresnel 1.55. The important part here is to *not* use fresnel unless you know how to deal with backfacing IORs. What should be mentioned is *where* to use thin glass. For windows I typically use just a big plane in the wall I cover up with window frames and call it a day. There are cases when you *do* want solid glass panes, and I sometimes use them on office divisors (if I can see the edge somewhere - typically on the doors) and always on glass railings (where I can always see the edge). If you *need* refraction roughness on "thin glass", you can use refraction instead of transparency using geometry/incoming as the normal. This will make the glass opaque though, so you'll need to add the fake fresnel shadow trick separately. If more realistic glass is needed, use the glass shader instead or a manually setup glass, and use path guiding to help the shadows instead of relying on tricks. Faking it is something I do pretty much all the time, but it's good advice to be aware of the limitations. Your problem with fresnel comes from not using 1/IOR and IOR using geometry/backfacing to switch between them. But yeah, faking it using layer weight -> curve/power add makes no visual difference, and no customer would ever comment on it. But faking it on solid geometry isn't always that easy, especially if you can see the edge. Glass panes are in real life never 100% aligned to each other. So I often assign some random color per pane (i.e. using snapped collapsed UV) and run it through a very weak normal map set to object space. I do the same to floor tiles and wooden floor boards etc. 8) Separate RGB. Actually I use heaps of derivatives; Separate RGB/R,G,B, Separate HSV/H,S,V, and Separate HSL/S,L (Hue is same as in HSV, S and L are different). Then also Log HSV(SV), Log HSV(VS), Log HSL(SL), and Log HSL(LS). Depending on contained range, the Logs will have to be normalized to new usable ranges, or even scrapped. So I use similar techniques A LOT. However, this has nothing to do with reality, at all, even if it's very convenient and memory effective. Nothing suggests the quality of polish (roughness) or bump/normals or specular levels are related to the materials albedo value. They may provide adequate and interesting variation doing magic to the output compared to not using them, but are completely unrealistic in most cases. 9) For clamping, I always deactivate this by setting them both to 0, at least initially. Denoiser can handle fireflies much better now. If fireflies can't be handled by tweaking something else that might be out of whack, then I might start fiddling around with clamping. 10) Well I render on CPU professionally (office spaces, so not to the same level of quality required), so no optix for me 😄
There is actually a thin glass shader in the works. At the last Bcon, it was shown. that they are actually working on such shader. Really hope it finally gets implemented so we dont need to do all that manual work of unchecking rays visibility and what not
@@RomboutVersluijs I only briefly tried the new Principled, but the GTR distribution used in the clearcoat lobe is still too buggy to have any use. Sheen looks much improved, but I don't think I was able to get it to react to normals, so having it perform any nap direction simulation was still impossible (and the hack I'm using remains problematic). When I tried it most of those new things mentioned in the video wasn't in yet. Tried it when the video came out, haven't touched Principled v2 since.
@@RomboutVersluijs GTR means Generalized Trowbridge & Reitz. It can allow for a specified tail parameter (gamma), and when this parameter is 2 it equals GGX. Topcoat uses GTR with a gamma hardcoded to 1 iirc, for a wider tail, but the implementation doesn't allow topcoat roughness to be properly controlled. It breaks between 0.017 and 0.018, meaning if you have a dark roughness map going all the way to full black, you always have to add 0.018 to the value to be on the safe side. To test this bug, make a sphere and camera and place the sphere center of screen. Make the material dielectric black with no specular and set its topcoat to 1 and have it reflect some HDRI. Texture coordinates.Window and separate Y. Remap y from [0.49, 0.51] to [0.017, 0.018] and use that to drive topcoat roughness. Render out and you should see a sharp separation mid screen from a fully sharp reflection to a 0.018 rough reflection. If you change it out from topcoat to specular and drive regular roughness, this doesn't happen.
The general consensus on the forums and blender chat is to not use tiling anymore since cyclesX. Thoughts? It also looks like in a few months it will be widely suggested that you should not use clamping any more. Many light sampling (light tree) gives much less noisy renders and when Path Guiding gets glossy ray support and is ported to GPU it should drastically improve renders without any clamping or or filter glossy.
From my own testing using tiling on GPU is pretty much always slower - the smaller the tile size the slower the rendering and using noise threshold causes further and sometimes significant slowdown when used with tiling. Without noise threshold: No tiling: 1min 27s 400 tile size: 1min 28s 200 tile size: 1min 33s With 0.005 noise threshold enabled: No tiling: 1 min 22s 400 tile size: 1 min 38s 200 tile size: 2 min 00s Tiling used to be important in previous version of Cycles, but it's not anymore since CyclesX.
@@Undy1 Smaller tile-size favors CPU rendering, then we have the mode where we can use both CPU and GPU, but i find that not very handy. Most times the gpu tiles will render almost the complete image, but we then are waiting for the CPU tiles to catch up. I wish it would adjust the size of the GPU tiles near the end. Then it could be useful.
I believe light scene with 1-5 mins render benefit more with no tiles. however if its 20+ mins render, tiling prevents the gpu from throttling for using full power that causing drawback (more than it can swallow) and allowing it to tackle the scene in more efficient rate at the same time
@@iceseic Thats is for single renders, if yiu render an animation and you still render 1-5min frames. After a couple frames it would still throttle since temps are to high. I think using tiles vs not using, is when you dont use them and render a single frame. You can stop it if you think it reached a noise free image. With tiles you cant do that since the image is not fully rendered yet
I've been doing 3D for a long time, and lighting is generally one of my stronger skills, but even I didn't think of tip # 11! That is brilliant and earned you a new subscriber!
Blender is so much more versatile than sketchup and other those overated industry program , some of them restrict user to certain degree that make it harder to use , Thanks for the tips , I will come to this video later
Very good!! , It would be cool if you made an interior scene using these resources in a series of 16 short videos , but covering each topic in this one , that would be fantastic
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Have you ever used IES lights? We are using hundreds of spotlights for a retail interior scene and they make a huge difference.
Careful if you use tiling with OptiX. I haven an rtx graphics card and I use cycles X with OptiX enabled, if I leave "tiling" on there's a chance that, if the scene is too heavy the render will run out of vram and stop rendering out of nowhere. Also tiling is slower than no tiling if you use OptiX. Keep this in mind for animations. Amazing tips btw. The double sun one was golden!
8:40 To clarify for people: OptiX allows Blender to use the hardware ray tracing on Nvidia cards. For my 2080 Super, it increases render speed by nearly 2x. It's huge. I also know they are working on the HiP renderer to eventually take advantage of the hardware ray tracing on the latest AMD cards. So if you're sitting there with 2x 3090 and you're not using Optix, you're wasting a LOT of time.
Please make a full video on light baking in blender and solving problems while baking light... Please make it..its very imp for optimising game audience really thank you.
I will like to see your recomendations in rendering, Im dealing so much with temporal denoising in my indoors designs, which makes my videos having a fliker effect.
Tile sampling is a relic from old ages, don't use it. You will render slower. There is one exception and thats when you push your gc to it's absolute limits close to the "gpu out of memory" error suddenly rendertimes explode up to 10x. Then tiling is a lifesaver.
4:00 be very careful here, alt-d DOES NOT give you an instance, it gives you a linked duplicate. It is still a unique object, but one that reuses (links) the mesh of the original object. True instancing is way faster than linked duplicates and is also possible in Blender with a couple of easy methods, but you don't achieve it with alt-d.
@@mrlightwriter I only know of two ways: Using geometry nodes or using the instancing panel under Object Properties, which instances child objects on verts or faces.
🐔 If you have any cool tips you'd like to share with others drop them here. Use this 🐔 icon when posting if you'd like me to include your tip in one of the future videos!
Bouns tip 06: every womderd if you have enough or too much light ? Use the fake colour feature on the filmic drop-down toggle in the samples pannle .. turn it on then your seance will be come a range of colours from blue to while ... Blue been to dark and white been too bright. Try to friend a good balance of green to yellow ..
Remember to turn off the feature before you render
Bonus tip 07: switch from filmic to RTX . Why do it matter ? RTX is made by the same develop for filmic remember flimic gave us more realistic and vibrant colours now RTX gives us richer colour
@@mukondeleliratshilavhi5634 "flimic gave us more realistic and vibrant colours"
No it didn't. It gave us *less* vibrant colors. It sacrificed saturation in order to increase the variation across a larger dynamic range. More realistic? Sure, if you're old enough to remember how film emulsion reacted to exposure worked. It was a fast one-click solution compared to the tone mapping abilities we have in Blender, and a no brainer to use. So I could use it. I've worked with tone mapping before, but I could never get anything "more nice" out of Blenders builtin tools.
As for tips, see own big post below. I didn't read this before I posted, so 😅
@@mukondeleliratshilavhi5634 Filmic is a color grading setting, RTX is a GPU, dont see the connection between those.
Thanks for the great tips.
I thought that rendering without tiles was faster... thats what i heard anyway.
Honestly this is probably the first "pro tips" video I've seen where the tips aren't all super basic. Really good video!
Yeah man, I'm genuinely impressed by this video as well. Really appreciate his workarounds and tips.
Best pro tip that I've heard from "pro tips" videos was to delete the default cube 😄
faxxx
Tip number 1. always select the object you want to move before you press G.
Using one image and separating the rgb is such a good way to add more details with less work and less data. I wish I would've thought of that earlier.
Thanks for your comment man and I'm glad you liked it!
Is there a tutorial for single texture materials, i don't think i understood from this video how to use it properly
@@dimigaming6476 yes, check the link in the video description
@@Chocofur This tip is super great, and all of them. Thanks.
The clear glass tip is amazing! I've tried multiple techniques and none came out the way I wanted until this.
Everything in here is useful.
This video was great!! I've watched many Blender tutorials even though I'm quite familiar with the program, and you are the only one to mention the double sun technique that's quite common professionally but rarely seen in tutorials, and I also learned quite a bit about render settings, great job!
Wow. I've been blendering for a while but still discovered a ton of new information in this video. Thanks for sharing!
Chocofur is the most under-rated veteran blender pros on TH-cam. Learnt a lot from you sir 🙌
Thanks ma, I really appreciate the comment!
@@Chocofur i really appreciate your contents sir 🙌 , most people don't realize your invaluable tips and tricks
Subscribed him cuz this, "he's Pro"
One of the best 3D tips videos I've ever seen, quick, advanced and very insightful, great stuff!
man you have no idea how good are these tips. The one for the glass is amazing
This is one of the best tips videos I've ever seen. Absolutely amazing.
simplify was my favorite. I searched for longer a method to decrease my 4k textures automatically in my test renders. Really a lot of helpful informations. Thanks for your efforts.
Thanks for your comment, I'm glad it helped!
Blew my mind with the color channel fits all setup, great stuff!!!
This video is a fricken gem. I thought about using color channels like that before, but I had no idea it could work so well! Bonus is that you can use it on any material, no extra maps needed if you don't have them.
You know this is the greatest pro video that I've ever seen because it includes excellent tips that make anyone improve and develop our skills so thanks you very much for making this tutorial
Didn`t got pro in 9 minutes, but what I learned here got me out from newbie looking renders. Thank you so much!
:-)
I literally refer to a different part of this video every day for blender work. I really appreciate you putting this together!!!
I've seen dozens of "architectural glass" shaders over the years and nobody ever truly explains exactly what is going on and what makes one better than the other. I prefer the ones that do everything via the light path node so I don't have to remember to go into every glass object and and uncheck ray visibility options.
Have you found one?
Solid gold tips! Thank you!
This was really good. I especially like the tip about the thin glass shader, but all were great tips.
never seen this glass setting. I love it, thank you!
Man, this made my day. I thought I knew my way around in blender but this video made me repeatedly shake my head in amazement and disbelieve. thanks.
Glad I could help! 😇
Wow these are PRO tips! First time I had to slow down a blender tutorial and pay full attention & I normally have to watch tutorials at 1.5x speed to get through unhelpful chit-chat
thanks man! ♥♥
Solid tips Lech!!!! Keep them coming! And loving the shot match @ 3:01 👍
Fantastic video, helped me understand what I can acctually do instead of poking around in the dark
Found my new favorite archviz channel. Thank you!
Some comments:
1) If you make the sun have a bigger angular diameter, this is something that only happens through clouds or mist, so also reduce the sun power. If the idea is to make the sun more interesting, I suggest adding something in front of it to cast shadows into the scene; trees, street lights, curtains, and so on.
2) Using sun lamps instead of Nishita sun, you can separate sun & sky into different Light Groups. I also separate interior lights of different purposes into different light groups. Downside is you have to tweak the values and color for the sun lamps to match sun from Nishita Sun & Sky. This allows far greater flexibility in post compared to having to re-render.
3) I have no idea why anyone would desaturate Nishita Sun & Sky, these two components have vastly different tonalities you want to keep, especially that warm low sun and/or very blue overcast (if white balanced for an indoor shot).
4) Don't say "use 3600K lights", it's better to lookup the luminaire and what practices are used in the region. Here typical indoor "warm lighting" starts at 2700K which is a bit on the warm side compared to other places, up to 3000K. 2500K also exist but are typically found to be too warm. Used in bedrooms and living rooms. 3000K-3400K (kitchens) for more balanced warmth, and 3600K-4000K (kitchens, bathrooms) for more "neutral" colors, even if those temperatures are still warmer than actual neutral (daylight) of around 5500K-6500K. Upper limit should be 4000K-5000K, and have limited use like garages. I'm even staying away from daylight balanced lights in offices (which is what I do); they may be "more realistic" but I prefer "more pleasing". Yes, 2700K will obviously tint the image "horrifically", that's why you should render out a "white patch", measure its color, and put the RGB values into CM curves RGB white point. Or in post, but I prefer seeing the result directly in preview. I'll use a slightly desaturated version as I prefer to keep some warmth in there. This will neutralize this "horrific" color cast from the light, but at the same time shift the outside Nishita Sun & Sky more towards cooler tones. There is nothing "wrong" with choosing to neutralize all color cast. It may absolutely be what you're going for, and you may think it improves the image quality. But it has nothing to do with "realism". This sterile look in interior renderings is just something I'm not a big fan of personally. I definitely prefer warm and inviting colors possibly in combination with blue hour exterior to really contrast those colors. But hey, I have a photographer background, so I have my biases for sure 😄
5) Use lens shift where appropriate. But also don't overdo it. Looking down from 2nd floor or even higher to the 1st floor will look super wacky relying on lens shift. If the tilt gets extreme, it's better to rely on actual tilt than lens shift. For top down views, don't forget you can get away with some horizontal lens shift too - to avoid that pesky wall showing up in contour only.
6) On area lamp shapes. Be aware of what the spread function do; it reduces to zero rather than some customizeable level, which means at some angle it will fade to black. It may be better to use two lamps and instance those around as a collection; one strong and focused one and another weaker but unfocused, and/or in combination with strength controls for camera/single glossy rays to control aliasing stepping. Unless barn doors are used, the strong translucent surface will be visible from "anywhere" even if the light is focused. I'm really not a fan on how spread is implemented in Blender, or how easily sampled tube lights are still missing. But hey, at least there's been some progress, so...
7) For "thin glass", approach is good enough, although I use power 5 add 0.05 which is remarkably close to fresnel 1.55. The important part here is to *not* use fresnel unless you know how to deal with backfacing IORs. What should be mentioned is *where* to use thin glass. For windows I typically use just a big plane in the wall I cover up with window frames and call it a day. There are cases when you *do* want solid glass panes, and I sometimes use them on office divisors (if I can see the edge somewhere - typically on the doors) and always on glass railings (where I can always see the edge). If you *need* refraction roughness on "thin glass", you can use refraction instead of transparency using geometry/incoming as the normal. This will make the glass opaque though, so you'll need to add the fake fresnel shadow trick separately. If more realistic glass is needed, use the glass shader instead or a manually setup glass, and use path guiding to help the shadows instead of relying on tricks. Faking it is something I do pretty much all the time, but it's good advice to be aware of the limitations. Your problem with fresnel comes from not using 1/IOR and IOR using geometry/backfacing to switch between them. But yeah, faking it using layer weight -> curve/power add makes no visual difference, and no customer would ever comment on it. But faking it on solid geometry isn't always that easy, especially if you can see the edge. Glass panes are in real life never 100% aligned to each other. So I often assign some random color per pane (i.e. using snapped collapsed UV) and run it through a very weak normal map set to object space. I do the same to floor tiles and wooden floor boards etc.
8) Separate RGB. Actually I use heaps of derivatives; Separate RGB/R,G,B, Separate HSV/H,S,V, and Separate HSL/S,L (Hue is same as in HSV, S and L are different). Then also Log HSV(SV), Log HSV(VS), Log HSL(SL), and Log HSL(LS). Depending on contained range, the Logs will have to be normalized to new usable ranges, or even scrapped. So I use similar techniques A LOT. However, this has nothing to do with reality, at all, even if it's very convenient and memory effective. Nothing suggests the quality of polish (roughness) or bump/normals or specular levels are related to the materials albedo value. They may provide adequate and interesting variation doing magic to the output compared to not using them, but are completely unrealistic in most cases.
9) For clamping, I always deactivate this by setting them both to 0, at least initially. Denoiser can handle fireflies much better now. If fireflies can't be handled by tweaking something else that might be out of whack, then I might start fiddling around with clamping.
10) Well I render on CPU professionally (office spaces, so not to the same level of quality required), so no optix for me 😄
There is actually a thin glass shader in the works. At the last Bcon, it was shown. that they are actually working on such shader. Really hope it finally gets implemented so we dont need to do all that manual work of unchecking rays visibility and what not
Here is a link to that video and the "thin sheet mode"
th-cam.com/video/DQeP363Xmn4/w-d-xo.html
@@RomboutVersluijs I only briefly tried the new Principled, but the GTR distribution used in the clearcoat lobe is still too buggy to have any use. Sheen looks much improved, but I don't think I was able to get it to react to normals, so having it perform any nap direction simulation was still impossible (and the hack I'm using remains problematic). When I tried it most of those new things mentioned in the video wasn't in yet. Tried it when the video came out, haven't touched Principled v2 since.
@@gottagowork What is this GTR distribution you talk about?
@@RomboutVersluijs GTR means Generalized Trowbridge & Reitz. It can allow for a specified tail parameter (gamma), and when this parameter is 2 it equals GGX. Topcoat uses GTR with a gamma hardcoded to 1 iirc, for a wider tail, but the implementation doesn't allow topcoat roughness to be properly controlled. It breaks between 0.017 and 0.018, meaning if you have a dark roughness map going all the way to full black, you always have to add 0.018 to the value to be on the safe side.
To test this bug, make a sphere and camera and place the sphere center of screen. Make the material dielectric black with no specular and set its topcoat to 1 and have it reflect some HDRI. Texture coordinates.Window and separate Y. Remap y from [0.49, 0.51] to [0.017, 0.018] and use that to drive topcoat roughness. Render out and you should see a sharp separation mid screen from a fully sharp reflection to a 0.018 rough reflection. If you change it out from topcoat to specular and drive regular roughness, this doesn't happen.
Yeah that glass shader is such a good solution. Bravo. Thanks
The general consensus on the forums and blender chat is to not use tiling anymore since cyclesX. Thoughts?
It also looks like in a few months it will be widely suggested that you should not use clamping any more. Many light sampling (light tree) gives much less noisy renders and when Path Guiding gets glossy ray support and is ported to GPU it should drastically improve renders without any clamping or or filter glossy.
From my own testing using tiling on GPU is pretty much always slower - the smaller the tile size the slower the rendering and using noise threshold causes further and sometimes significant slowdown when used with tiling.
Without noise threshold:
No tiling: 1min 27s
400 tile size: 1min 28s
200 tile size: 1min 33s
With 0.005 noise threshold enabled:
No tiling: 1 min 22s
400 tile size: 1 min 38s
200 tile size: 2 min 00s
Tiling used to be important in previous version of Cycles, but it's not anymore since CyclesX.
@@Undy1 Smaller tile-size favors CPU rendering, then we have the mode where we can use both CPU and GPU, but i find that not very handy. Most times the gpu tiles will render almost the complete image, but we then are waiting for the CPU tiles to catch up. I wish it would adjust the size of the GPU tiles near the end. Then it could be useful.
I believe light scene with 1-5 mins render benefit more with no tiles. however if its 20+ mins render, tiling prevents the gpu from throttling for using full power that causing drawback (more than it can swallow) and allowing it to tackle the scene in more efficient rate at the same time
@@iceseic Thats is for single renders, if yiu render an animation and you still render 1-5min frames. After a couple frames it would still throttle since temps are to high.
I think using tiles vs not using, is when you dont use them and render a single frame. You can stop it if you think it reached a noise free image. With tiles you cant do that since the image is not fully rendered yet
Precious as always. Thanks for sharing your work and your secrets! Your works are always wonderful!
You are so welcome!
Glass material was so helpful ! Thank you
You bringing up optix just saved me so much time. Thanks!
I didn't know about the composition guides in Blender. Now I know. Thank you :)
Love this tips, Thanks for sharing
This just became my favourite Blender Tutorial/Top Tips. Really insightful!!
I've been doing 3D for a long time, and lighting is generally one of my stronger skills, but even I didn't think of tip # 11! That is brilliant and earned you a new subscriber!
Hands down the best tips ever! Thank you🎈
So glad!
These tips are amazing, nice small tricks that improve and remove a lot of that dead computer image issue.
Wow, phenomenal video, the ammount of information is insane, all useful !
Dude, this is by far the MOST USEFUL Blender tips video I'v ever seen! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
all of these are insanely helpful
Absolutely goldmine of info. Thanks bro!
Thanks for your comment, happy to hear :-)
The sun tips are one of the big issues that can make a big difference in an interior rendering.
Wow!!! what a gym of information!
Pure gold, I never knew these tricks
The best blender channel for beginners like me 🎉
best comment as always my fren
Great work and perfect notes. I have been looking for this details ... Found something sometime ago but not that much sufficient. Thank very much ...
Yo that optix bonus tip made my preview rendering at least twice as fast, probably like 4 times faster. Gamechanger for a beginner!
I'm only 2 in and both were top tips and worth a comment. Top man!
Nine minutes and so much valuable information! 👍👍👍
oh my god you are my hero again
The color settings look good!
Sztos pro tips! Pozdro z Białegostoku!
wow this is pure gold, thanks for sharing
Thank you is not enough for these tips, but I really appreciate the information you provided in this video. Thank you again!
Glad it was helpful! cheers!
Mind blown.... Many thanks!!
Wow, these are some extreme tips!
Blender is so much more versatile than sketchup and other those overated industry program , some of them restrict user to certain degree that make it harder to use , Thanks for the tips , I will come to this video later
holy shit this is a gold mine for me, thank u so much !
Very good!! , It would be cool if you made an interior scene using these resources in a series of 16 short videos , but covering each topic in this one , that would be fantastic
Cool idea, not sure I'll be able to pull it on TH-cam but we'll see!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Have you ever used IES lights? We are using hundreds of spotlights for a retail interior scene and they make a huge difference.
Amazing. Thank you👌💪👍👍
my pleasure!
Awesome video! If I happen to encounter a few more like these from you, you just earned a subscriber.
You know what... f*** it, Subscribed!
OMG, thanks a million! Great tips! I'm a newbie, but already understand your tips, good job!
This video what way better than I expected very usefull tips and actually new things I havent seen before thank you so much for sharing>
Awesome tips man, thank you!
Happy to help!
These are really great tips. Thank you so much!
Absolute gold, thank you for this
Very nice tips, thanks !
thank you for being so detailed and including so much in this video you are a real g
thanks :-)
Pure gold!
Thank you awesome tips
Really PRO tips!!
Careful if you use tiling with OptiX. I haven an rtx graphics card and I use cycles X with OptiX enabled, if I leave "tiling" on there's a chance that, if the scene is too heavy the render will run out of vram and stop rendering out of nowhere. Also tiling is slower than no tiling if you use OptiX. Keep this in mind for animations.
Amazing tips btw. The double sun one was golden!
This is amazing! Thanks for this!
OMG!!! Thx you! interesting and experience information!
These are really good tips!
Wow! This is gold.
amazing tips, thank you!
Thank you so much so intersting tips
You are welcome! Cheers!
Muhteşem edit .. muhteşem+++ Emeklerine sağlık. Çok teşekkürler.
Jesus Christ, this is ridiculously helpful!
8:40 To clarify for people: OptiX allows Blender to use the hardware ray tracing on Nvidia cards. For my 2080 Super, it increases render speed by nearly 2x. It's huge. I also know they are working on the HiP renderer to eventually take advantage of the hardware ray tracing on the latest AMD cards.
So if you're sitting there with 2x 3090 and you're not using Optix, you're wasting a LOT of time.
Wow, this was actually really helpful. Thanks!
Great tips!
素晴らしいビデオだった、ありがとう
These tips are top notch 👍
Wow, this was what I needed
🐔 Thanks!
fantastic video!! thank you!
Amazing tips. Thank you.
Thank you for these amazing tips!
Glad you like them! 🐔 Thanks!
Thanks a lot for the glass shader
Welcome 😊
Please make a full video on light baking in blender and solving problems while baking light... Please make it..its very imp for optimising game audience really thank you.
Wow, great video!
really good tips man, ty very much : )
Very cool one! Been using blender for years, but some tips were more than useful
Great to hear! thx
I will like to see your recomendations in rendering, Im dealing so much with temporal denoising in my indoors designs, which makes my videos having a fliker effect.
Tile sampling is a relic from old ages, don't use it. You will render slower.
There is one exception and thats when you push your gc to it's absolute limits close to the "gpu out of memory" error suddenly rendertimes explode up to 10x. Then tiling is a lifesaver.
This needs to be higher up.
mindblow! Thank you buddy
4:00 be very careful here, alt-d DOES NOT give you an instance, it gives you a linked duplicate. It is still a unique object, but one that reuses (links) the mesh of the original object. True instancing is way faster than linked duplicates and is also possible in Blender with a couple of easy methods, but you don't achieve it with alt-d.
the main point was it saves memory (and makes file sizes smaller)
Geo Nodes Instances on points,:)
How can we have true instances in Blender, then?
@@mrlightwriter I only know of two ways: Using geometry nodes or using the instancing panel under Object Properties, which instances child objects on verts or faces.
@@bclaus0 Thanks for the info!
So impressive tips! thnks alot