Lathe: It is a Harbor Freight lathe 7-10. Link. m.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-10-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93212.html I got it a while back. Upgraded to quick release for the cutting tool and that is about it.
Can you place the pool cue butt in this lathe? I see you use a bit in the lathe in the video, but am wondering if one wants a lathe to work on the pool cue butt, could it fit in this lathe? If so, did you make any changes to allow that?
Not this lathe. I have to modify the bore and the chuck to get a cue butt to fit. I think it is possible but that’s almost replacing the whole inside of the lathe. The time and money to make it happen to me would not be worth it. The alignment might be off and part replacement could be iffy. I would just buy a big bore headstock lathe than modify the 7-10. Hope this helps and thank you for commenting.
I use a mini lathe for my cue work, too. I made an steel extension for the bed to accommodate the shaft or butt length. It keeps everything perfectly straight.
So far so good. My mini lathe is still working. Haven’t upgraded anything on it. It’s my finishing cue lathe now. Thank you for commenting, don’t forget to subscribe and please share.
I consider you lucky that you get the pin set perfect the way you do the work. You should have the cue in a lathe and the tools in a tailstock. One of these days your approach will bite you, and your customer.
12FYAO, I know this is 2 years old, but I wonder if I could change the insert on my carbon fiber shaft to match the cue. I'm about to by the Predator P3 and would hate to modify it.
You can. To remove insert you need a bolt removal tool and a induction heater. Ryan from Facebook is probably the best guy to remove inserts. He has the proper tools to do the job correctly. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and play share. Like to Ryan’s Facebook. facebook.com/RatCueRepairs?mibextid=LQQJ4d
Thank you. The tap is 3/8x8 TPI Radial. I got it from Atlas Billiard Supply. I got the standard size. After market Radial pins seem a little big. Link. www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=129&ITEM_ID=5992. If you have any questions just post it and I’ll do my best to answer them. Thank you again and please share.
Thanks again for the Info. I had my cue repair guy to retap my 3/8x10 shaft to a Radial. Now I have 1 shaft that fits 2 pins. Big savings on current shafts if you know what I mean.
I did it on my wife’s old cue. I don’t really work on customer’s cue. I can make custom cues for customers. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share. Pm me if you have questions. facebook.com/felix.yao.5205
I just got shaft with a united joint..and i want tu use it as my second shaft. Can u explain how to open and change that united joint on shaft (not on butt)??? Coz my cue 5/16×14
To remove the joint insert on the shaft, you will need a screw extractor. Heat the screw extractor and the heat will transfer to the United joint and it will loosen the glue. Once the glue bond is broken extract the United joint out of the shaft. I would still use a torch but be careful not to burn the shaft. Hope this helps and please share.
I used 5 min epoxy. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share. Link where I got it. www.muellers.com/Z-Poxy-Quick-Set-Formula-2-Part-Epoxy,2513.html?b=s*z-poxy+quick+set+formula+2-part+epoxy
I could not tell the difference on the way it hits or how it sounds. The biggest difference really is the balance and weight of the cue. Going from wood to carbon shaft and changing the pin to the g10 made a big difference. The big difference was most wood cue weight 3.4 to 3.6 oz and most carbon shaft weight 3.6 to 4 oz. Removing and 1 oz made the cue more neutral to a little forward weight cue it a carbon shaft. Personally I like light cues,18-18.5 oz. Having the a light pin, g10 or aluminum, really helps. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
@@playpool12fyao thanks a lot for replying! The balance is exactly what I’m aiming for. My original cue butt is around 14.9 and has a 3.4oz wood shaft. But recently I got a new radial butt which is too heavy for me even without any weight bolt. So I’m thinking to change its pin from steel to some light material, but not sure which material can help remain the feel of steel pin. Does aluminum helps reduce the weight as much as G10? Cus I suppose aluminum might feel more like steel since they are all metal…
Changing the pin will help a lot to reduce the weight. If you want that metal feel, it’s not the pin, it’s the joint collar. I use to believe that till I did some research. Even pros can’t tell the difference on what pin is installed in a cue. Someone did a blind test with different pins and not one got 100%. I changed my pin on my old Predator from a steel pin to a G10 and the only difference was the weight and a better balance point with the Revo shaft. If your worried about the feel of the pin, I don’t think you and tell. Radial pin weight An Aluminum pin weight is 0.5 oz A G10 pin weight is 0.3 oz A steel pin weight is 1.5 oz The lightest would be the G10 making your cue weight 14.9-1.5=13.4. 13.4+.3=13.7. 13.7+3.6=17.3 oz Hope this helps and thank you for commenting.
I don’t know any other way to reduce the weight besides changing the joint pin. If I was building a cue and it’s not a full splice cue, I would use an aluminum “A” joint pin. The choice of wood makes a bid difference also. Ebony and Cocobolo wood tend to be heavy. They are really good looking wood but you pay for the weight. Here is a video on a cue I built. th-cam.com/video/Z0q2BNclDYc/w-d-xo.html Thank again for commenting.
Yea, my first lathe has a small headstock and that is why I got a big bore headstock from Mid American Cue Lathe. Now I build my own cues now. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share. Video of my new lathe. th-cam.com/video/GvaD3KelG_c/w-d-xo.html Video of my latest cue I build. th-cam.com/video/19dQDLR5_JA/w-d-xo.html
pgale mostly its the weight and balance point. With the carbon shaft, they weigh about 1 oz more than wood shaft. That really changes balance point making the cue front heavy. With the lighter joint pin, it make the cue more neutral when using a carbon shaft. Also, some say G10 feels better, more softer, crisp and everything in between. I can’t tell. All I know carbon shaft changes the balance point heavily (front weight), it is about 1 oz heavier than wood and just remove a 1oz weight on the back of the cue (to make you desired weight), the cue will be even more front heavy and really messing up you cue’s natural balance point. Hope this helps and please share.
@@playpool12fyao " they weigh about 1 oz more than wood shaft." lol no they dont, i have no clue where you got that idea but it is false... wood and carbon shafts weight generally around 4ounces 3.5 to 4.5~ounces depending on the material density, volume and type of joint. revo carbon shafts weight anywhere from 3.6 ounce radial to 4.2 steel insert from what ive seen, wood shafts are exactly in the same weight range all my wood shafts are between 3.8 and 4.2... cuetec carbon shaft is also around 3.8ounces, united carbon shafts are 3.5 - 3.8 ounce. i would say carbon shafts are generally little bit lighter than wood shafts if you compare them in same tip size and same joint
I didn’t if you see the bore after installing the pin and just looking at the cue, there is no away a 5/8 drill was use. Also if you read in the description, I also started I used a “5/8” but I used a 3/8 drill. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
The 3/8 is not the width of the entire pin. 3/8 refers to the threads only. The middle of the pin is wider than than the original meaning you have to bore it out more.
I would like to know, if the handling is the same for a uni-loc? I would like to replace the Quick-Loc of my butt Fury. is the threading standard for all types of joints? Thank you for your answer
They pretty much are. The heat from the torch melts the epoxy that holds the pin to the cue. Just because not to get too close to the wood of the cue. Once the pin is heated, you should be able to unscrew it. Now you should be able to drill and tap the butt of the cue. Hope this helps and please share.
First off radial is also made be "uni-loc". Second, if you're talking about a quick release Uni-Loc....then no. The steps are very different and it is one of the most complex pin/joints to install or remove.
Thanks for the video, but this is really not the correct way to do it. The butt should be properly mounted in the lathe the then the pocket should be bored with a boring bar to ensure concentricity. I do understand that your lathe is probably to small to do this, just saying!
You are correct. My lathe back then limited me to do proper pin and joint work. I corrected the process on my later video with another cue. th-cam.com/video/x9L0XuH0wAY/w-d-xo.html Thank you for commenting and please share.
Hopefully you meant 3/8” drill bit and not 5/8” like you said. The barrel should be .372” (approx 9.5mm which is .374”) but using a 3/8” (.375”) bit is all you really need for it to fit the barrel
L J just double checked the drill bit and you are correct. It was a 3/8 not a 5/8. Did not have my glasses on and maybe that is why I thought the 3 was a 5. Good catch. I will add that to the description. Thank you for commenting and please share.
Yeah I read the comments for this reason, I was like “5/8, what , no way” … also curious to know what you did when u said “after I “manipulated it a little bit” Beyond that as a greenhorn cue repair man myself (5yrs experience and working under a master cue builder to this day) I respect the work you did, you. Figured out a way consider the mini lathe bore size is to small to fit a butt through it. Nice job and I know you’ve learned a lot since this video as well (based on other videos u have put out)
Totally agree, I have learned a lot since I made that video. Now I make custom cue and I definitely use a dial indicator. Thank you for commenting, don’t forget to subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
@playpool12fyao I have a Peri cue that I need some repairs on and my cue guy is not taking any more right now (RJH) Can you help me what's you website?
Lathe: It is a Harbor Freight lathe 7-10.
Link. m.harborfreight.com/7-inch-x-10-inch-precision-mini-lathe-93212.html
I got it a while back. Upgraded to quick release for the cutting tool and that is about it.
Cool video.
Out of curiosity, did you use a GoPro camera for this video? I'm just wondering what caused the distortion when you rolled the cue.
I did. I used a GoPro 7. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Can you place the pool cue butt in this lathe? I see you use a bit in the lathe in the video, but am wondering if one wants a lathe to work on the pool cue butt, could it fit in this lathe? If so, did you make any changes to allow that?
Not this lathe. I have to modify the bore and the chuck to get a cue butt to fit. I think it is possible but that’s almost replacing the whole inside of the lathe. The time and money to make it happen to me would not be worth it. The alignment might be off and part replacement could be iffy. I would just buy a big bore headstock lathe than modify the 7-10. Hope this helps and thank you for commenting.
Could you place a link to where you got the G10 radial pin?
You make it look so easy.... lol Well done my friend!!! I like the way you walk the people thru every step...
T Z thank you. Please share.
I use a mini lathe for my cue work, too. I made an steel extension for the bed to accommodate the shaft or butt length. It keeps everything perfectly straight.
So far so good. My mini lathe is still working. Haven’t upgraded anything on it. It’s my finishing cue lathe now. Thank you for commenting, don’t forget to subscribe and please share.
I consider you lucky that you get the pin set perfect the way you do the work. You should have the cue in a lathe and the tools in a tailstock. One of these days your approach will bite you, and your customer.
I might try this on a cheap $20 cue first. Doesn't look too hard. Great video.
Thank you.
Love your videos, very informative and inspirational! Keep it up!
2B07Alan1 thank you for commenting and please share.
I have seen the forends of cues warp from the heat when doing this
12FYAO, I know this is 2 years old, but I wonder if I could change the insert on my carbon fiber shaft to match the cue. I'm about to by the Predator P3 and would hate to modify it.
You can. To remove insert you need a bolt removal tool and a induction heater. Ryan from Facebook is probably the best guy to remove inserts. He has the proper tools to do the job correctly. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and play share.
Like to Ryan’s Facebook.
facebook.com/RatCueRepairs?mibextid=LQQJ4d
Unless it's an authorized Predator shop you'll void your warranty
@@michaelross5376 they were talking about the shaft not the P3. They want to change the shaft to Uniloc
Very cool to watch!
The Billiard Corner thank you for commenting and please share.
Thanks for this!! Just bought a lathe
No problem. I hope you enjoy it. In time it will pay for itself. Thank you for commenting and please share.
Very informative video and thanks for sharing. What are the Tap measurements for Radial re - threading of Shaft and where to purchase?
Thank you. The tap is 3/8x8 TPI Radial. I got it from Atlas Billiard Supply. I got the standard size. After market Radial pins seem a little big. Link. www.cuestik.com/store/product.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=129&ITEM_ID=5992. If you have any questions just post it and I’ll do my best to answer them. Thank you again and please share.
Thanks again for the Info. I had my cue repair guy to retap my 3/8x10 shaft to a Radial. Now I have 1 shaft that fits 2 pins. Big savings on current shafts if you know what I mean.
No problem. I have done that too 3/8 10 to a radial. No issues, thank you for commenting.
What is use glue on cue ?
For pins and inserts, I use a 5 minute epoxy. Hope this helps and thank you for commenting.
Do you install pins tips for customers
I did it on my wife’s old cue. I don’t really work on customer’s cue. I can make custom cues for customers. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Pm me if you have questions.
facebook.com/felix.yao.5205
焼いて除去するとは知りませんでした！感謝！
It’s the heat. The heat weakens the adhesive. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
I just got shaft with a united joint..and i want tu use it as my second shaft.
Can u explain how to open and change that united joint on shaft (not on butt)???
Coz my cue 5/16×14
To remove the joint insert on the shaft, you will need a screw extractor. Heat the screw extractor and the heat will transfer to the United joint and it will loosen the glue. Once the glue bond is broken extract the United joint out of the shaft. I would still use a torch but be careful not to burn the shaft. Hope this helps and please share.
i'll try it.. thx mate
Just before removing the United joint. See if it fits you cue butt. If that shaft is a United joint like Mezz that shaft is a 5/16 x 14.
What glue did you used ? Thank you
I used 5 min epoxy. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Link where I got it.
www.muellers.com/Z-Poxy-Quick-Set-Formula-2-Part-Epoxy,2513.html?b=s*z-poxy+quick+set+formula+2-part+epoxy
just wondering if this could change the feel and the sound when you hit the ball? I’m interested in changing into g10 to lose some weight for my cue
I could not tell the difference on the way it hits or how it sounds. The biggest difference really is the balance and weight of the cue. Going from wood to carbon shaft and changing the pin to the g10 made a big difference. The big difference was most wood cue weight 3.4 to 3.6 oz and most carbon shaft weight 3.6 to 4 oz. Removing and 1 oz made the cue more neutral to a little forward weight cue it a carbon shaft. Personally I like light cues,18-18.5 oz. Having the a light pin, g10 or aluminum, really helps. Hope this helps, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
@@playpool12fyao thanks a lot for replying! The balance is exactly what I’m aiming for. My original cue butt is around 14.9 and has a 3.4oz wood shaft. But recently I got a new radial butt which is too heavy for me even without any weight bolt. So I’m thinking to change its pin from steel to some light material, but not sure which material can help remain the feel of steel pin. Does aluminum helps reduce the weight as much as G10? Cus I suppose aluminum might feel more like steel since they are all metal…
@@playpool12fyao also is there any other method to make the cue even lighter? What do you do when making a cue but it’s too heavy?
Changing the pin will help a lot to reduce the weight. If you want that metal feel, it’s not the pin, it’s the joint collar. I use to believe that till I did some research. Even pros can’t tell the difference on what pin is installed in a cue. Someone did a blind test with different pins and not one got 100%. I changed my pin on my old Predator from a steel pin to a G10 and the only difference was the weight and a better balance point with the Revo shaft. If your worried about the feel of the pin, I don’t think you and tell.
Radial pin weight
An Aluminum pin weight is 0.5 oz
A G10 pin weight is 0.3 oz
A steel pin weight is 1.5 oz
The lightest would be the G10 making your cue weight 14.9-1.5=13.4. 13.4+.3=13.7. 13.7+3.6=17.3 oz
Hope this helps and thank you for commenting.
I don’t know any other way to reduce the weight besides changing the joint pin. If I was building a cue and it’s not a full splice cue, I would use an aluminum “A” joint pin. The choice of wood makes a bid difference also. Ebony and Cocobolo wood tend to be heavy. They are really good looking wood but you pay for the weight.
Here is a video on a cue I built.
th-cam.com/video/Z0q2BNclDYc/w-d-xo.html
Thank again for commenting.
With your lathe it looks like you do not use a pass through headstock. And you removed the other end to allow it to accept the length of a cue?
Yea, my first lathe has a small headstock and that is why I got a big bore headstock from Mid American Cue Lathe. Now I build my own cues now. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
Video of my new lathe. th-cam.com/video/GvaD3KelG_c/w-d-xo.html
Video of my latest cue I build. th-cam.com/video/19dQDLR5_JA/w-d-xo.html
great job
So what is the advantage of changing?
pgale mostly its the weight and balance point. With the carbon shaft, they weigh about 1 oz more than wood shaft. That really changes balance point making the cue front heavy. With the lighter joint pin, it make the cue more neutral when using a carbon shaft. Also, some say G10 feels better, more softer, crisp and everything in between. I can’t tell. All I know carbon shaft changes the balance point heavily (front weight), it is about 1 oz heavier than wood and just remove a 1oz weight on the back of the cue (to make you desired weight), the cue will be even more front heavy and really messing up you cue’s natural balance point. Hope this helps and please share.
@@playpool12fyao " they weigh about 1 oz more than wood shaft." lol no they dont, i have no clue where you got that idea but it is false... wood and carbon shafts weight generally around 4ounces 3.5 to 4.5~ounces depending on the material density, volume and type of joint. revo carbon shafts weight anywhere from 3.6 ounce radial to 4.2 steel insert from what ive seen, wood shafts are exactly in the same weight range all my wood shafts are between 3.8 and 4.2... cuetec carbon shaft is also around 3.8ounces, united carbon shafts are 3.5 - 3.8 ounce. i would say carbon shafts are generally little bit lighter than wood shafts if you compare them in same tip size and same joint
So what is g10 not a metal?
It’s not metal.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-10_(material)
Thank you for commenting and please share.
Why would you drill it to 5/8 when it’s a 3/8 pin
I didn’t if you see the bore after installing the pin and just looking at the cue, there is no away a 5/8 drill was use. Also if you read in the description, I also started I used a “5/8” but I used a 3/8 drill. Thank you for commenting, please subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
The 3/8 is not the width of the entire pin. 3/8 refers to the threads only. The middle of the pin is wider than than the original meaning you have to bore it out more.
Take a drink everytime he says "itself"
I would like to know, if the handling is the same for a uni-loc? I would like to replace the Quick-Loc of my butt Fury.
is the threading standard for all types of joints? Thank you for your answer
They pretty much are. The heat from the torch melts the epoxy that holds the pin to the cue. Just because not to get too close to the wood of the cue. Once the pin is heated, you should be able to unscrew it. Now you should be able to drill and tap the butt of the cue. Hope this helps and please share.
First off radial is also made be "uni-loc". Second, if you're talking about a quick release Uni-Loc....then no. The steps are very different and it is one of the most complex pin/joints to install or remove.
Can u do the same for my Jacoby radial cue?
Mark Halvorsen sorry I don’t work on others cue. I don’t want to be reliable for anything. Thank you for commenting and please share.
Thanks for the video, but this is really not the correct way to do it. The butt should be properly mounted in the lathe the then the pocket should be bored with a boring bar to ensure concentricity. I do understand that your lathe is probably to small to do this, just saying!
You are correct. My lathe back then limited me to do proper pin and joint work.
I corrected the process on my later video with another cue.
th-cam.com/video/x9L0XuH0wAY/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for commenting and please share.
Hopefully you meant 3/8” drill bit and not 5/8” like you said.
The barrel should be .372” (approx 9.5mm which is .374”) but using a 3/8” (.375”) bit is all you really need for it to fit the barrel
L J just double checked the drill bit and you are correct. It was a 3/8 not a 5/8. Did not have my glasses on and maybe that is why I thought the 3 was a 5. Good catch. I will add that to the description. Thank you for commenting and please share.
tough_jungwoo keep up the good work and all the best here on YT.
Good video! I was thinking 5/8 was kinda big?
That is as bad as Doc Brown not knowing his wrench sizes. Someone skilled should automatically know these things.
Yeah I read the comments for this reason, I was like “5/8, what , no way” … also curious to know what you did when u said “after I “manipulated it a little bit”
Beyond that as a greenhorn cue repair man myself (5yrs experience and working under a master cue builder to this day) I respect the work you did, you. Figured out a way consider the mini lathe bore size is to small to fit a butt through it. Nice job and I know you’ve learned a lot since this video as well (based on other videos u have put out)
Dial indicator....😏
Totally agree, I have learned a lot since I made that video. Now I make custom cue and I definitely use a dial indicator. Thank you for commenting, don’t forget to subscribe if haven’t already and please share.
@playpool12fyao
I have a Peri cue that I need some repairs on and my cue guy is not taking any more right now (RJH)
Can you help me what's you website?