I had an oil leak on my engine which I repaired. I decided to pressure wash the engine to clean it all up. After the wash I also got the P1361 code. I keyed on that when you also mentioned pressure washing. Just now I went back to my car, removed the TDC sensor connector and there was visible water in it. I used electrical contact cleaner to displace the water and then blew out the connector with compressed air. Then I reconnected the connector, cleared the code and it hasn't come back. If you hadn't mentioned that I probably would have just replaced the sensor. Thanks!!
@@doctorfdp6752is yours doing the same thing like in this guys video? Take off your iddle air control valve located behind the intake or below if you cant afford an OEM One or cant find an original denso or honda brand try to get one fron the pick and pull and make sure its an OEM. If you cant find one there maybe a buddy, a neighborg or some one might have a yunk car on their back yard and might let you have it. Some iddle valves fit multiple engine, year, and model like i said remove yours and carry it with you and match it. DO NOT!!! DO NOT BUY cheap iddle valves from, RockAuto, ebay, Amazon, Autozone or any cheapo place, trust me they would not work. I learned that twice the hard way. Or simply just buy a can of throttle body cleaner and clean it, along with the MAF, TPS, trottle body and intake, the carbon deposits can sure clog up those parts and make it hard to get air or perform good at all.
Could be your distributor. At that age could be cracked or seal gone and let water in it when you pressure washed it. But also true if water got into your electrical somewhere. Check your codes to see if any better direction.
@@kadeanpalmer5825 i hope so! The weather is super nice here in Denver, CO. Would you recommend just trying to clear the engine check light after a few days to see if it dries? Because as of now i try to clear the code and then it comes right back on like literally 1 second later
I had a 2001 Honda Accord and it had the same problem, came to find out the alternator wasn’t giving enough power to the car so it limits it self so the alternator doesn’t go bad on you
Its your mass airflow sensor, go grab another one from a junkyard or brand new and you will golden. Takes 30 sec to change out the sensor located on the box that houses your cars airfilter.
I’ve been having this problem with my 2005 CRV. It was driving fine and it just went into limp mode. P2646. I’ve changes oil. Filters. Cleaned the oil passage sifts. Changed vtec solenoid. I can’t figure it out. I’ve had the wiring checked. The ecu checked.. idk. When it’s triggered I can bypass it by just turning the ignition switch off then back on but as soon as I fall bellow 3000rpms again it triggers or if I just gear up and the rpm drops it goes away. And it doesn’t always do it. Not when it’s cold. Only after it’s warmed up good n running for a while.
All I did to mine was take off my air filter and sprayed some carburetor/ choke cleaner in the throttle body and I reved it a couple of times and my Honda was back
I have a 2001 Accord Lx 2.3. Same thing with mine. Changed the Vtec Solenoid and the 2 automatic transmission sensors and the crankshaft sensor. Won't rev past 4000 rpms. I try to floor it....and the rpm needle just bobs back/forth at 4000 rpms. Did you ever figure this fix out?
@@red1red1mc84 It doesn't have a camshaft sensor. Just crankshaft sensor. Changed that already. Looked at fuses/relays. All good. Did you fix your car?
Yeah I fixed mine. It was because when I pressure washed it, I got water in the connectors for the crankshaft position sensor and the vtech solenoid connector. Dried those out and I was good to go.
@@jianiversace9787 had throttle position sensor and air flow sensor connectors mixed up.once I corrected that I had an idle issue where it would idle at 2000 rpm.tried the idle learn procedure that the video talks about 3 or for times and nothing.i found a massive air leak at the intake manifold and head,turns out the gasket that came with the felpro complete engine set was completely wrong.went and bought just the intake set and that one was correct.stillnhad an idle of 2000rpm after the fix. It turns out that the butterfly valve in the throttle body was stuck open.when I pushed the top half in the idle dropped so I got some carb and throttle body cleaner,sprayed some in there and it now idles right at 750 which is right at spec.but I have a question for you,what,if anything have you done to your car i.e repairs,engine or tranny swap etc. Or did it just start doing that?.all my issues developed after an engine swap and all of the issues are a result of my mistakes.well some of them are anyways
Rob funk I did the f23 vtec swap on my coupe an I have the same problem I went to get it checked an they say it's something with my distributor so on I got a new distributor an nothing I stay at 3k I also don't have my ecu grounded idk if that's a thing? That effects it but I do have a vtec ecu an I do have the vtec seleniod connected to a switch
Got water in the connector on the bottom of the car mine does the same rhing when i go through the car wash check engine light comes on then after sitting for a couple days i reset it and it wont come back until i wash it again spent so much money before i figures this out like thousands 😅 belt water pump alternator distributor new battery everything even put new heads on it because i thought it was the valve seals 🤣🤣ahh good times. If its not the connection on the bottom its the alternator is over or under charging. And the computer shuts the car down to safty mode
Yea bro .your problem is simple it's the crankshaft position sensor yea that normal happen when you ride throw alot of water or have a really bad oil in your timing case.i get mines in my 2000 and it runs like a dream
It’s one of those dumb sensors on the throttlebody I forgot which one it was, but there’s either two or three sensors on the throttlebody. I know which one it is it is going to be on the it’s the one that controls the throttle I went to the junkyard and just replace the whole throttlebody cause I really didn’t want to start pulling off sensors off of it then it just doesn’t run the same after that that’s what matters doing the same thing
this has happened to me in my 01 accord but it was at 4000 rpms i recently had my vtec solenoid changed out cause it was leaking. and wanted to know what i could do to diagnose the problem and if i can keep driving the car
You guys figure out anything else? My 01 was the same I changed the vtec selenoid drove it for 5000km and just before I was going to change my oil it threw the code again... only solution I’ve found is change the oil every 2-3000 km but that seems a little ridiculous....
hey,.. i just got back from my mechanic, and we changed the crankshaft sensor and it is not that, also we change the distributor and it is not that, all its left is the ecu or pcm... my mechanic said most of the time is the ecu/pcm.. but it was not the distributor or the crankshaft sensor..
Need to knowwww the outcome please . The boggin at 3k, can’t even hit 74mph is driving me crazyyyy! I’ve replaced whole intake manifold , throttle body, IMRC , fuse , relay, fuel filter , fuel injectors, fuel lines. First starting the Honda in the morning, it’ll go past 3k rpm , but never fails after a good five minutes driving, it will not let me accelerate until it goes down to 2500rpm, then I can hit the gas and go until 3k rpm’s. I have an 2002 Honda crv 2.4l , I need to know ! Maybe my cat is clogged and it’s not able to push out through the exhaust? About to cut that off and see lol. Help dudeeees !
I changed my distributor, crank sensor, still have that code, waiting on v tec solenoid & the throttle position sensor, hope this will solve this problem
Can someone please help me I'm going crazy with my 98 accord my car was running fine except that it doesn't rev past 5k rpm..my vtec solenoid was leaking so I replaced it with a new one and now its stuck in limp mode at 4k rpm.. checked the code it said vtec system failure..what I'm I missing because my car was fine before I change the solenoid..please I'm going bald
I had an oil leak on my engine which I repaired. I decided to pressure wash the engine to clean it all up. After the wash I also got the P1361 code. I keyed on that when you also mentioned pressure washing. Just now I went back to my car, removed the TDC sensor connector and there was visible water in it. I used electrical contact cleaner to displace the water and then blew out the connector with compressed air. Then I reconnected the connector, cleared the code and it hasn't come back. If you hadn't mentioned that I probably would have just replaced the sensor. Thanks!!
the same shit every wash even at winter !
My 2000 civic and 2003 accord did the same thing. What worked for me on both cars is the iddle air control valve.
Could you help me with my 2003 accord please
@@doctorfdp6752 i could try, what you have?
@@doctorfdp6752is yours doing the same thing like in this guys video? Take off your iddle air control valve located behind the intake or below if you cant afford an OEM One or cant find an original denso or honda brand try to get one fron the pick and pull and make sure its an OEM. If you cant find one there maybe a buddy, a neighborg or some one might have a yunk car on their back yard and might let you have it. Some iddle valves fit multiple engine, year, and model like i said remove yours and carry it with you and match it. DO NOT!!! DO NOT BUY cheap iddle valves from, RockAuto, ebay, Amazon, Autozone or any cheapo place, trust me they would not work. I learned that twice the hard way. Or simply just buy a can of throttle body cleaner and clean it, along with the MAF, TPS, trottle body and intake, the carbon deposits can sure clog up those parts and make it hard to get air or perform good at all.
I changed my alternator and it saved me alot of money. My car was also in Limp mode.
Did that fix your issue ?
Did it fix it?
It’s the crank shaft position sensor. I had the same problem.
Could be your distributor. At that age could be cracked or seal gone and let water in it when you pressure washed it. But also true if water got into your electrical somewhere. Check your codes to see if any better direction.
If you haven’t already, change the map sensor & main relay (pgm fi)
This is exactly what mine did after pressure washing it. I’m really hoping the crank sensor dries like one of these comments says it will
It will , give it two to 3 days depending on your weather ,
@@kadeanpalmer5825 i hope so! The weather is super nice here in Denver, CO. Would you recommend just trying to clear the engine check light after a few days to see if it dries? Because as of now i try to clear the code and then it comes right back on like literally 1 second later
After it dries the code should go away but if not u can clear it
Alternator diodes was my issue replaced alternator and its fine now.
I had a 2001 Honda Accord and it had the same problem, came to find out the alternator wasn’t giving enough power to the car so it limits it self so the alternator doesn’t go bad on you
Did you have to change the alternator? If so, did it resolve the issue?
Check your oil pressure switch, there’s 2 of them and the tell the VTEC solenoid when to activate
Is that the smaller one ? With the boot ? Or the bigger one . Usually green ? Thanks
Its your mass airflow sensor, go grab another one from a junkyard or brand new and you will golden. Takes 30 sec to change out the sensor located on the box that houses your cars airfilter.
I've replaced idle air control,distributor,throttle body and VTEC solenoid,changed oil. Still has same issue.
Have you figured it out yet?
I've narrowed it down to map. After replacing ECU.
Did you fix it? I have same problem and i don't know what to do i checked almost everything
Map sensor or main relay
I have the not the same but similar problem - the car is 1996 accord coupe 2.2 without vtec,and it revs to 5000rpm.What can be the problem?
Low oil prices
Not sure why it said prices just low oil
I have the same problem now did u find out the problem
Its the speed sensor my acura was doing the same thing changed the sensor and now shes beautiful 😍
I’ve been having this problem with my 2005 CRV. It was driving fine and it just went into limp mode. P2646. I’ve changes oil. Filters. Cleaned the oil passage sifts. Changed vtec solenoid. I can’t figure it out. I’ve had the wiring checked. The ecu checked.. idk. When it’s triggered I can bypass it by just turning the ignition switch off then back on but as soon as I fall bellow 3000rpms again it triggers or if I just gear up and the rpm drops it goes away. And it doesn’t always do it. Not when it’s cold. Only after it’s warmed up good n running for a while.
Mine does that when it gets hot outside, what might that be?
I’m having the same problem with mine honda but it only does it sometimes ?
Same here did you find a fix if so what was it
@ dude I sold it and I bought a 2024 si lol 😂 never found the problem
@@Ghost305-p2n😢🤣could of been a hero
Did you ever find out the problem?
Have you fixed it?, mine is doing the exact same thing
All I did to mine was take off my air filter and sprayed some carburetor/ choke cleaner in the throttle body and I reved it a couple of times and my Honda was back
Did you find fix for your Accord
For my car the PCM is not sending any power to the VTEC solenoid
Do you have a P1361 code on the scanner?
Hello mate did you figure what the problem was?
Did you try turning on and off?
Could be the crank sensor or pcm or shorted/open wires
I have a 2001 Accord Lx 2.3. Same thing with mine. Changed the Vtec Solenoid and the 2 automatic transmission sensors and the crankshaft sensor. Won't rev past 4000 rpms. I try to floor it....and the rpm needle just bobs back/forth at 4000 rpms. Did you ever figure this fix out?
Are your fuses good? I know it sounds dumb but I've overlooked them before. You may also need to check your camshaft position sensor.
@@red1red1mc84 It doesn't have a camshaft sensor. Just crankshaft sensor. Changed that already. Looked at fuses/relays. All good. Did you fix your car?
Yeah I fixed mine. It was because when I pressure washed it, I got water in the connectors for the crankshaft position sensor and the vtech solenoid connector. Dried those out and I was good to go.
@@red1red1mc84 Really dude? Your car isn't working because you're drowning the parts out? Smh. I was hoping it was your alternator.
Lol it wasn't very smart to pressure wash it I know
Its the oil pressure switch
Hey, so what was your issue?
Hey Chris do you still have your Honda 2000?
i have the same issue mine is the crank shaft position sensor
Mine won't keep a stable 3000rpm,did yours have that problem and if so how'd you fix that?
Same need help what’s the fix
@@jianiversace9787 had throttle position sensor and air flow sensor connectors mixed up.once I corrected that I had an idle issue where it would idle at 2000 rpm.tried the idle learn procedure that the video talks about 3 or for times and nothing.i found a massive air leak at the intake manifold and head,turns out the gasket that came with the felpro complete engine set was completely wrong.went and bought just the intake set and that one was correct.stillnhad an idle of 2000rpm after the fix. It turns out that the butterfly valve in the throttle body was stuck open.when I pushed the top half in the idle dropped so I got some carb and throttle body cleaner,sprayed some in there and it now idles right at 750 which is right at spec.but I have a question for you,what,if anything have you done to your car i.e repairs,engine or tranny swap etc. Or did it just start doing that?.all my issues developed after an engine swap and all of the issues are a result of my mistakes.well some of them are anyways
Rob funk I did the f23 vtec swap on my coupe an I have the same problem I went to get it checked an they say it's something with my distributor so on I got a new distributor an nothing I stay at 3k I also don't have my ecu grounded idk if that's a thing? That effects it but I do have a vtec ecu an I do have the vtec seleniod connected to a switch
I know whats wrong with it It ain't got no gas in it
Bahahahaha .
Got water in the connector on the bottom of the car mine does the same rhing when i go through the car wash check engine light comes on then after sitting for a couple days i reset it and it wont come back until i wash it again spent so much money before i figures this out like thousands 😅 belt water pump alternator distributor new battery everything even put new heads on it because i thought it was the valve seals 🤣🤣ahh good times. If its not the connection on the bottom its the alternator is over or under charging. And the computer shuts the car down to safty mode
hit the nail on the head with this one. Alternator not charging sufficiently sends the car into safety mode.
Yea bro .your problem is simple it's the crankshaft position sensor yea that normal happen when you ride throw alot of water or have a really bad oil in your timing case.i get mines in my 2000 and it runs like a dream
Step one: find out code thrown.
I have the same problem
How you fixed it?
How can i do it
Clean the idle air control valve
Does it work
Because I have the same problem
@@musalutaaya1826 Yes it does!!!
@@undragaston let me try it tomorrow
@@musalutaaya1826 did it end up working?
You only changed the vtec solenoid, you should also replace the oil pressure sensor, this sneaky little works alongside the vtec solenoid
It’s one of those dumb sensors on the throttlebody I forgot which one it was, but there’s either two or three sensors on the throttlebody. I know which one it is it is going to be on the it’s the one that controls the throttle I went to the junkyard and just replace the whole throttlebody cause I really didn’t want to start pulling off sensors off of it then it just doesn’t run the same after that that’s what matters doing the same thing
this has happened to me in my 01 accord but it was at 4000 rpms i recently had my vtec solenoid changed out cause it was leaking. and wanted to know what i could do to diagnose the problem and if i can keep driving the car
Mine does it at 4000 to
You guys figure out anything else? My 01 was the same I changed the vtec selenoid drove it for 5000km and just before I was going to change my oil it threw the code again... only solution I’ve found is change the oil every 2-3000 km but that seems a little ridiculous....
Never power wash unless u kno wat u doing just too many electronics components
hey,.. i just got back from my mechanic, and we changed the crankshaft sensor and it is not that, also we change the distributor and it is not that, all its left is the ecu or pcm... my mechanic said most of the time is the ecu/pcm.. but it was not the distributor or the crankshaft sensor..
Did you solve this ?
Iacv or map sensor
Then why didnt he do that first?
Check your airflow sensor.
Why my car want start up i got a 1999 honda accord coupe v6 just put a new battery in it
Changed out the crank sensor on mine and it didn’t help it could possibly be the speed sensor on mine I’m not 100%
Did you ever figure it out?
O2 sensor got water in it it eventually will dry out
Need to knowwww the outcome please . The boggin at 3k, can’t even hit 74mph is driving me crazyyyy! I’ve replaced whole intake manifold , throttle body, IMRC , fuse , relay, fuel filter , fuel injectors, fuel lines. First starting the Honda in the morning, it’ll go past 3k rpm , but never fails after a good five minutes driving, it will not let me accelerate until it goes down to 2500rpm, then I can hit the gas and go until 3k rpm’s. I have an 2002 Honda crv 2.4l , I need to know ! Maybe my cat is clogged and it’s not able to push out through the exhaust? About to cut that off and see lol. Help dudeeees !
Just deleted the cat it stills does the same thing
Did you get it fixed?
Check alternator. I’ve seen it do it on an automatic.
Any update lol
Could be low oil pressure
Abs sensor or wheel speed sensor
New friends is here, same problem p1361 code
Did u find fix. I have same code after cleaning engine
IT'S THE DISTRIBUTOR!
YOU'RE WELCOME 🤗
The crank sensor is the problem
You can't show the oil changed if you pulled the dipstick LOL
Cranck sensor or the speed cut sensor
Speed cut sensor where is it Located?
I changed my distributor, crank sensor, still have that code, waiting on v tec solenoid & the throttle position sensor, hope this will solve this problem
Well when you start your engine and immediately start revving it, things like this will happen.
Its your distributor if your car can't rev pass 3k--4k
How you know for sure
Idk, I just replaced mine and its now doing it.
Hey who wants to sell his or her honda accord here??
i have a 98 honda accord ex hmu
@@davidleas3679 txt me 08108155255
Distributor cap. Change it an get to work
Try to use WD-40 to repel the water from the engine.
I have a 95 accord that won't go past 4000rpm im thinking its my battery since I see residue coming from terminals
Can someone please help me I'm going crazy with my 98 accord my car was running fine except that it doesn't rev past 5k rpm..my vtec solenoid was leaking so I replaced it with a new one and now its stuck in limp mode at 4k rpm.. checked the code it said vtec system failure..what I'm I missing because my car was fine before I change the solenoid..please I'm going bald
Did you figure it out?
@@aramirez15942 yea I put the original back but I cleaned it up put new orings and it was good to go..lol
Same here
Crank position sensor.
Alternator my car have the same problem
It can be you tps sensor check on that.
NEED ECU
What if you replace it and it still didnt work ? Is there a way to check the ECU pretty pricey to just guess it's the ECU
Moisture INSIDE Distributor Cap.
Mine started after I replaced the crank sensor lol
I know what it is
Delete codes