Its your mass airflow sensor, go grab another one from a junkyard or brand new and you will golden. Takes 30 sec to change out the sensor located on the box that houses your cars airfilter.
Wow thank you so much h for this. 4 years this video came in handy, I was stuck at the supermarket parking lot not knowing what to do. This got me up and running.
Unplug your corrector sensor wire, its pretty easy you could unplug it through the top, blow air to both sides with your air compressor guarantee you that's the problemor if not then replacethe cranksensor@@JonathanDiaz-vm5mb
It’s one of those dumb sensors on the throttlebody I forgot which one it was, but there’s either two or three sensors on the throttlebody. I know which one it is it is going to be on the it’s the one that controls the throttle I went to the junkyard and just replace the whole throttlebody cause I really didn’t want to start pulling off sensors off of it then it just doesn’t run the same after that that’s what matters doing the same thing
Well My key would not engage in my car And it was out in the street Where it is posted " no parking " And I remembered A tech had done this before But could not remember how Thanks to your video You provided a very detailed video So I was able to disengage the shifter And pushed it into a driveway Now if I can figure out How to fix the tumblers Or maybe have to purchase a whole new ignition lock
Need to knowwww the outcome please . The boggin at 3k, can’t even hit 74mph is driving me crazyyyy! I’ve replaced whole intake manifold , throttle body, IMRC , fuse , relay, fuel filter , fuel injectors, fuel lines. First starting the Honda in the morning, it’ll go past 3k rpm , but never fails after a good five minutes driving, it will not let me accelerate until it goes down to 2500rpm, then I can hit the gas and go until 3k rpm’s. I have an 2002 Honda crv 2.4l , I need to know ! Maybe my cat is clogged and it’s not able to push out through the exhaust? About to cut that off and see lol. Help dudeeees !
@@doctorfdp6752is yours doing the same thing like in this guys video? Take off your iddle air control valve located behind the intake or below if you cant afford an OEM One or cant find an original denso or honda brand try to get one fron the pick and pull and make sure its an OEM. If you cant find one there maybe a buddy, a neighborg or some one might have a yunk car on their back yard and might let you have it. Some iddle valves fit multiple engine, year, and model like i said remove yours and carry it with you and match it. DO NOT!!! DO NOT BUY cheap iddle valves from, RockAuto, ebay, Amazon, Autozone or any cheapo place, trust me they would not work. I learned that twice the hard way. Or simply just buy a can of throttle body cleaner and clean it, along with the MAF, TPS, trottle body and intake, the carbon deposits can sure clog up those parts and make it hard to get air or perform good at all.
Yea bro .your problem is simple it's the crankshaft position sensor yea that normal happen when you ride throw alot of water or have a really bad oil in your timing case.i get mines in my 2000 and it runs like a dream
I’ve been having this problem with my 2005 CRV. It was driving fine and it just went into limp mode. P2646. I’ve changes oil. Filters. Cleaned the oil passage sifts. Changed vtec solenoid. I can’t figure it out. I’ve had the wiring checked. The ecu checked.. idk. When it’s triggered I can bypass it by just turning the ignition switch off then back on but as soon as I fall bellow 3000rpms again it triggers or if I just gear up and the rpm drops it goes away. And it doesn’t always do it. Not when it’s cold. Only after it’s warmed up good n running for a while.
hey,.. i just got back from my mechanic, and we changed the crankshaft sensor and it is not that, also we change the distributor and it is not that, all its left is the ecu or pcm... my mechanic said most of the time is the ecu/pcm.. but it was not the distributor or the crankshaft sensor..
Got water in the connector on the bottom of the car mine does the same rhing when i go through the car wash check engine light comes on then after sitting for a couple days i reset it and it wont come back until i wash it again spent so much money before i figures this out like thousands 😅 belt water pump alternator distributor new battery everything even put new heads on it because i thought it was the valve seals 🤣🤣ahh good times. If its not the connection on the bottom its the alternator is over or under charging. And the computer shuts the car down to safty mode
@@kadeanpalmer5825 i hope so! The weather is super nice here in Denver, CO. Would you recommend just trying to clear the engine check light after a few days to see if it dries? Because as of now i try to clear the code and then it comes right back on like literally 1 second later
Its the oil pressure switch
The crank sensor is the problem
I've replaced idle air control,distributor,throttle body and VTEC solenoid,changed oil. Still has same issue.
Have you figured it out yet?
I've narrowed it down to map. After replacing ECU.
Its the speed sensor my acura was doing the same thing changed the sensor and now shes beautiful 😍
Pongansen chingon hijos
Check your oil pressure switch, there’s 2 of them and the tell the VTEC solenoid when to activate
Is that the smaller one ? With the boot ? Or the bigger one . Usually green ? Thanks
Why my car want start up i got a 1999 honda accord coupe v6 just put a new battery in it
Do you have a P1361 code on the scanner?
Did you try turning on and off?
Its your mass airflow sensor, go grab another one from a junkyard or brand new and you will golden. Takes 30 sec to change out the sensor located on the box that houses your cars airfilter.
I have the not the same but similar problem - the car is 1996 accord coupe 2.2 without vtec,and it revs to 5000rpm.What can be the problem?
Low oil prices
Not sure why it said prices just low oil
Thanks bro 😎
I have the same problem now did u find out the problem
You can't show the oil changed if you pulled the dipstick LOL
Wow thank you so much h for this. 4 years this video came in handy, I was stuck at the supermarket parking lot not knowing what to do. This got me up and running.
I changed my alternator and it saved me alot of money. My car was also in Limp mode.
Did that fix your issue ?
Did it fix it?
Unplug your corrector sensor wire, its pretty easy you could unplug it through the top, blow air to both sides with your air compressor guarantee you that's the problemor if not then replacethe cranksensor@@JonathanDiaz-vm5mb
For my car the PCM is not sending any power to the VTEC solenoid
It’s one of those dumb sensors on the throttlebody I forgot which one it was, but there’s either two or three sensors on the throttlebody. I know which one it is it is going to be on the it’s the one that controls the throttle I went to the junkyard and just replace the whole throttlebody cause I really didn’t want to start pulling off sensors off of it then it just doesn’t run the same after that that’s what matters doing the same thing
I know what it is
I have this car. Any chance you know how to change that gear shift handle and have a video on it?
Well My key would not engage in my car And it was out in the street Where it is posted " no parking " And I remembered A tech had done this before But could not remember how Thanks to your video You provided a very detailed video So I was able to disengage the shifter And pushed it into a driveway Now if I can figure out How to fix the tumblers Or maybe have to purchase a whole new ignition lock
Need to knowwww the outcome please . The boggin at 3k, can’t even hit 74mph is driving me crazyyyy! I’ve replaced whole intake manifold , throttle body, IMRC , fuse , relay, fuel filter , fuel injectors, fuel lines. First starting the Honda in the morning, it’ll go past 3k rpm , but never fails after a good five minutes driving, it will not let me accelerate until it goes down to 2500rpm, then I can hit the gas and go until 3k rpm’s. I have an 2002 Honda crv 2.4l , I need to know ! Maybe my cat is clogged and it’s not able to push out through the exhaust? About to cut that off and see lol. Help dudeeees !
Just deleted the cat it stills does the same thing
Did you get it fixed?
Check alternator. I’ve seen it do it on an automatic.
Any update lol
My 2000 civic and 2003 accord did the same thing. What worked for me on both cars is the iddle air control valve.
Could you help me with my 2003 accord please
@@doctorfdp6752 i could try, what you have?
@@doctorfdp6752is yours doing the same thing like in this guys video? Take off your iddle air control valve located behind the intake or below if you cant afford an OEM One or cant find an original denso or honda brand try to get one fron the pick and pull and make sure its an OEM. If you cant find one there maybe a buddy, a neighborg or some one might have a yunk car on their back yard and might let you have it. Some iddle valves fit multiple engine, year, and model like i said remove yours and carry it with you and match it. DO NOT!!! DO NOT BUY cheap iddle valves from, RockAuto, ebay, Amazon, Autozone or any cheapo place, trust me they would not work. I learned that twice the hard way. Or simply just buy a can of throttle body cleaner and clean it, along with the MAF, TPS, trottle body and intake, the carbon deposits can sure clog up those parts and make it hard to get air or perform good at all.
I’m having the same problem with mine honda but it only does it sometimes ?
Same here did you find a fix if so what was it
@ dude I sold it and I bought a 2024 si lol 😂 never found the problem
@@Ghost305-p2n😢🤣could of been a hero
It can be you tps sensor check on that.
Mine does that when it gets hot outside, what might that be?
Alternator my car have the same problem
Yea bro .your problem is simple it's the crankshaft position sensor yea that normal happen when you ride throw alot of water or have a really bad oil in your timing case.i get mines in my 2000 and it runs like a dream
I’ve been having this problem with my 2005 CRV. It was driving fine and it just went into limp mode. P2646. I’ve changes oil. Filters. Cleaned the oil passage sifts. Changed vtec solenoid. I can’t figure it out. I’ve had the wiring checked. The ecu checked.. idk. When it’s triggered I can bypass it by just turning the ignition switch off then back on but as soon as I fall bellow 3000rpms again it triggers or if I just gear up and the rpm drops it goes away. And it doesn’t always do it. Not when it’s cold. Only after it’s warmed up good n running for a while.
How can i do it
Distributor cap. Change it an get to work
Step one: find out code thrown.
Please what causes this
Never power wash unless u kno wat u doing just too many electronics components
Hello mate did you figure what the problem was?
IT'S THE DISTRIBUTOR! YOU'RE WELCOME 🤗
It’s the crank shaft position sensor. I had the same problem.
I know whats wrong with it It ain't got no gas in it
Bahahahaha .
If you haven’t already, change the map sensor & main relay (pgm fi)
Mi carro es igual hice lo mismo y se destrabó de parking y bajo pero ya no baja a 1 ni a parking, es algo más grave?
Delete codes
hey,.. i just got back from my mechanic, and we changed the crankshaft sensor and it is not that, also we change the distributor and it is not that, all its left is the ecu or pcm... my mechanic said most of the time is the ecu/pcm.. but it was not the distributor or the crankshaft sensor..
Did you solve this ?
Iacv or map sensor
Then why didnt he do that first?
Got water in the connector on the bottom of the car mine does the same rhing when i go through the car wash check engine light comes on then after sitting for a couple days i reset it and it wont come back until i wash it again spent so much money before i figures this out like thousands 😅 belt water pump alternator distributor new battery everything even put new heads on it because i thought it was the valve seals 🤣🤣ahh good times. If its not the connection on the bottom its the alternator is over or under charging. And the computer shuts the car down to safty mode
hit the nail on the head with this one. Alternator not charging sufficiently sends the car into safety mode.
This is exactly what mine did after pressure washing it. I’m really hoping the crank sensor dries like one of these comments says it will
It will , give it two to 3 days depending on your weather ,
@@kadeanpalmer5825 i hope so! The weather is super nice here in Denver, CO. Would you recommend just trying to clear the engine check light after a few days to see if it dries? Because as of now i try to clear the code and then it comes right back on like literally 1 second later
After it dries the code should go away but if not u can clear it
O2 sensor got water in it it eventually will dry out
Alternator diodes was my issue replaced alternator and its fine now.
Changed out the crank sensor on mine and it didn’t help it could possibly be the speed sensor on mine I’m not 100%
Crank position sensor.
well done thanks!
Mine started after I replaced the crank sensor lol