Not sure why you had to replace the TB as that's not a common problem on Hondas. It could be your install if the cable is not hooked up correctly. It could also be the cable going to the transmission not being adjusted correctly. I could give a more detailed answer if you post this video and your question to my forum on my website.
EricTheCarGuy Hello Eric the car guy. I have a 99 Honda accord V6 and my honda will Not stay started and when it is started the rpms are really low and when gas pedal is pressed a little bit my honda would just die...please help thank you
having the same problem on my 2000 Honda CRV very frustrating but now thanks to all you guys I know what to look for I appreciate all the feedback this really help me out thanks
I have 11 years experience tuning Hondas for sport and race teams and I own and maintain a 99 EX as my daily eco driver. After watching this video 4 times(going back and forth to observe your issues) I can tell that before you bought it your Accord was driven hard and and rarely, if ever, serviced by a Honda Tech. The whining noise you're hearing is most likely an old, dirty and worn out idler pulley. Since you said you replaced the throttle body and it runs alright when it's warmed up (yet jumps in rpms) I can tell you it isn't a throttle problem. It's most likely an issue with the fuel management system (injectors/valves/fuel pump). Unfortunately, I'm not there so I can't feel the response or smell what the car is putting out. Let me know if you have any questions :)
brother, i need your help, pls, honda accord 2000, ex summer is excelent, no problem, winter time fail to star but no is always, look like if dond't have gas, and later star with problems smel gas, only in could whether , mecanics don find 'it, if you have tips,pls help me , im clouse to junk my carr
Djungle Djim so would this have to do with the fuel system every time I hold the brake while the car is on drive the rpm seems to kick back back and forth while I'm holding the brake
Ram Onairda. hey i have a 91 accord it starts and is normal when parked but soon as i put it in drive it starts off really slow and speeds up. when i get to low speeds it starts shaking and cuts off and on do you know what it could be plz.
Honda automatic transmissions are problematic. The transmission fluid filter screens (built inside the trans. so get a new transmission)get clogged and as a result it stays in one gear. While this happens its then trying to select into the next gear. It surges up and down cos its engaging 2 gears and then deciding between the 2. Hope this helps also keep this car. Quite sought after and their value is going up in the last year or 2. Theyll be worth a small fortune in 10 years id say. Very reliable cars once you change the oil regularly(no more than 6000 miles between oil changes). You should also check the oil once a month because 90s honda 4cylinder engines burn oil due to the valve guide seals being machined a bit too big from the factory. These are great cars. Never get rid of it unless its 100% completely and utterly fucked
Try your vtec solenoid because it allows oil to flow. Yours on the top. Try that before transmission because your car got a separate computer for that. How you would not vtec solenoid is by going up hill it climb slow. Another symptom it might look like a oil leak were your oil pan is. But it is really not. And run continuity check with multimeter before buying all these things. Something it want show not code for miles the vtec solenoid. Vtec 4 cylinder and v6 has them but 4 cylinder on top. Transmission just look at color it should be pink. Are vacuum leaks were the intake does that too. Suggest you pin point the problem not guess. You can even unplug the tps sensor or any sensor while running and see if it makes a difference. I fix volvos and there whole lot harder.
The problem is probably your FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve) which come equipped on SOME but not all 6th gen accords. When you replaced the throttle body, did you replace everything that's mounted to it as well? I ask because that's where the FITV is. It's on the bottom of the throttle body. Its sole purpose is to allow the car to idle/run properly when cold. It actually only serves a function for the first 5-15 minutes of use depending on how long the car takes to warm up. That would be my first check simply because it only happens when the car is cold. My 6th gen (same exact car as yours actually, but a little newer) doesn't have an FITV. Which brings me to the next thing it may be, your IAC Valve (Idle Air Control) which is a little more of a pain as it's located on the back of the plenum (upper intake manifold -- the thing the throttle body mounts to). Do a little research on those two components and get back to me. It could also be clogged EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) ports which is a common problem with these vehicles as cylinder 3 and 4 share a single EGR port rather than each having it's own. And finally, If none of these others work, I'd check your TPS adjustment (usually throws a code p0122 I think -- ''Trottle position/pedal sensor A circuit low input'') Good luck, pal! These are all pretty easy things to take care of, so don't feel intimidated by them! If you have any problems, google it! There are some GREAT forums online specifically for these cars, and Eric the Car Guy has some awesome videos from the IAC and FITV. WATCH THEM! Hahaha seriously, just remember that someone, somewhere, has had the same problem and found a solution and then posted that solution online somewhere. You'll be fine. Let me know if you have any questions at all! :)
That problem comes from the Crankshaft Position sensor. Usually moisture gets into the connector that goes to the harness. I re-positioned the connector on my car to an area that will not get splashes from rain or melting snow and that fixed the problem. If you wash your engine regularly you have to remember to cover this connector before you proceed to wash.
It appears that your throttle is all over the place when you press the gas pedal. When you replaced the throttle body did you replace the throttle position sensor too? Previous owner may have tried to clean the throttle with the butterfly valve closed, in which case the TP unit could have come in contact with some carb cleaner and it's shorting out.
I have the same problem I have a 98 integra gsr and when I floor it then it bogs out and turn off and it takes a while to turn back on can it be the tps sensor or there a fuel problem
I believe your issue here is a Clogged Catalytic converter. The vehicle isn't able to release proper pressure, and erratic driving, bogging , low performance without being in limp mode. I personally would replace Spark plugs with MGK V-Power, and unscrew your upstream O2 sensor. Just as a test to see if it makes a difference, leave O2 sensor out of the exhaust manifold and start car. Drive car with just an open hole where the sensor was and see if the symptoms improved. The cars going to be loud when sensors removed. It's temporarily allow back pressure to release considering cat converter is clogged. I'm just trying to think of anything different from the norm. Also, the Accord has 2 different Main Transmission Solenoids. There's the lock up solenoid and the dual linear solenoid. Both serving different purposes. Good luck!
I have the same issue with my 2001 accord, i changed the shift selenoid and nothing happened,still doing the same thing whenever i stop and try to speed. now i am thinking to check the mass air flow lol. I don't rearlly want to rebuild the transmission it costs money though, so i will try to check the parts that i can reach easily
@@faridatamazight7789 so you changed the silinoid and still not working? did you have any check engine light on? I know the feeling but Im not rebuilding nothing that shit is probably hard as fuck. I cleaned the egr ports that didn't do it so I will do a transmission oil change check the selenoids clean everything as best as I can but I doubt it will fix it because I too most likely have a torque messed up or I don't know there's so many fuckin things, that if I where to do them all and still nothing I probably just buy a tricycle. oh yeah the map sensor also. see you know what's fucked up is the fact that the fuckin car doesn't tell you wtf is going on and I paid a guy to come diagnose my car and even he was like it's the transmission but it wasn't clear on to what it was. so I would have to tow it just so I get the same diagnostic so that's like 200 plus 3000 give or take fuck that shit ill buy a new car
@@PEACEFULWARRIOR999 It didn't work, i have check engine light Sometimes and whenever i have it my car slows down doesn't speed up until i took off the battery for a second in order to clair the check engine light. too much parts it's hard to know which one causes the problem, i took it to my mechanic and the code he gave me was for the same selenoid that i already changed !!!
@@faridatamazight7789 so does your car run? dude you should always go by the codes from the check engine light first, I bet you had a blast trying to find a radio code. if your mechanic told you that then your mechanic was obviously wrong. so this is key, only u know your car right, what do you think happened like for example my car had a major oil leak that was the beginning then when my car wouldn't move or accelerate I checked the engine and I saw a huge cut and gash on the air intake hose, at first I thought that's it so I fixed it and the fucking car would still do the same thing I could drive it for a few seconds until I had to stop then it wouldn't engage in drive. don't u hate that shit lol
It could be alot of things , like h02 sensor or vacuum leak , def check for that , it can cause a lil humm or whistle , also check the VTEC solenoid . I'm working on a Honda as I speak going through the same thing. Check your fuel pressure as well to make clear its not the pump , fuel lines , or fuel relay going bad . these commons things always been a honda issue .
type of oil r u using? 5w20 0w20 cold weather. also you cat can be clogged. it was doing this to me and my cat was my problem.. didn't send any codes mal light wasn't on and exhaust back pressure was jumping when I toke the cat off I was it was clogged.. changed it and car run like I got from the dealer..
Also, just noticed that when your car's engine does decide to work for you, you're revving high but moving slow. This indicates a clutch problem. I'd bet a pack of gummy worms and my cable remote that whoever you purchased this car from drove it very hard and reckless, i.e. they most likely floored it off the line at every light trying to race it, put it to the limit on the highways, and more than likely treated the cars transmission as if it were a manual/tiptronic transmission. Again, let me know if you have a questions :)
Djungle Djim hey bud I have the same issue with 94 vtech ex I have replaced transmission and throttle cable but still have the same problem any advice ?
Your TB are ok, it rev and idle fine, I'm sure your gearbox transmission fluid never been change before or the fluid was low. It will ruin your forward clutch. I seen it some people with start up clutch issue .. meaning it will not move in D until it warm up till 20mins.Just replace it.
i have the exact same problem with my 01 accord. i replaced my iac valve, maf sensor, tps, various parts costing me a lot of money and finaly got so pissed of i took it yo the dealer for diagnosis. $135 told me it was the throttle body and 02 sensor number 1.
I ended up selling the car after 4 shops in my area didn't know what was wrong and they all just recommended the replacement of the engine and trans, now I drive a 09' Escalade ESV with no problems at all except gas mileage lol
I have 2002 accord .my car 1 to 2, 2 to 3 shifting time more rise engine . some time fully vibration (4 cylinder , A/T) IF I DRIVE UNDER 2000 RPM ALL GEAR WILL SHIFT SMOOTHLY.DO you know the reason. not showing (MIL LIGHT & TRANSMISSION LIGHT)
Sinto Paul My exboyfriend has a 98 honda accord. we had transmission problems until we started to change transmission fluid every 10000-20000 miles adding lucas transmission treatment. now the car's tranny runs better than ever. Give that a try.
+BADCHICK498 you wouldn't have to change it that often if you used Honda ATF. Some places might have it, but it usually needs to be ordered from Honda. Anybody who's worked on Honda's should've told you that...
I used to work as an associate racing mech for Honda/Acura USA and the above is actually not true. The Honda ATF DW1 is not better than your standard(and cheaper) ATFs, it's simply required by Honda and the price inflated. The main reason it's required is so that if anything other than DW1 is detected they can void the manufacturer warranty. This became policy after the 1999 AT recall so that Honda could void warranties on ATs that weren't serviced by Honda dealerships using Honda authorized parts and fluids. Cheers!
i'm having the exact problem with my ford explorer. it is definitely a tps sensor, but wondering if a transmission replace is necessary? is it really cylinder head issues?
did you ever find out what the issue was? I've got the EXACT problem with 2002 honda civic 5speed. it's been to numerous shops. I gotta figure this out.
I had similar problem and my cause was auto part store transmission fluid...I switched to Honda atf dw1 and drove for a week on the 3 quarts then I drained them and put 3 more in and car runs way better. I still will drain and put 3 more in that what the experts say. I also changed coolant and did I a fresh oil Change.
Gut out your catalytic converter that was my problem .remove your oxygen sensor and try it it’s going to sound loud but if you get power back it means a clogged converter
I had a similar problem and in my case it happened when the car was exposed to cold weather. I solved it changing the plugs. If you see clearly on the video, you can see that when you change to D4, the light indicator doesnt turn on. When this happened to me, I left the car some time turned on, and afterwards just turned it off and then on, and the problem was gone. Once I changed the plugs, problem dissapeared. Hope it helps others who have this problem.
i have a 91 accord my throttle body is messed up aswell except i have replced it an also replace the entire wire that runs from throttle body to the gas pedal an still no luck, i step on gas pedal an the car goes nowhere
Did you ever get your issue fixed? I have a Honda Civic & thinking I may have to replace the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Because the RPM's haven't been consistent. And basically the same thing, not big on picking up speed. Best wishes.
Mine doing same and is 98 Lx manual but sometimes get higher rpm and sometimes I can't pass from 3500rpm but I think is for oil change cuz when I doing oil change is work fine again
I have a accord 96vtec and it runs but don't have streng on hills and don't change gears on the take off almost halfway the throttle and it still won't go it will go very slow can someone give me some tips on where to look for the problem thank you for the advice
Flooring it. turning steering wheel till it stops. Driving like a maniac in the snow. Looks like new front motor mount, I know mine needs a new front motor mount about every 100k due to me driving the piss out of it, Those little motors tear the asshole out of the front motor mounts when you drive it like you stole it. That things been rode hard and put away wet for 20 years, its probably not even on the road anymore today.
What was it my car does the same thing..... I changed the fuel filter mass air flow sensor calystic vent solenoid..... took it to a mechanic an they said it's the throttle body flap open a lil bit.....smh o yeah changed the TPS sensor to all the coils, an plugs.....🤯🤯🤯
start the car and let it sit for a couple mins before you drive it. it doesn't want to move because the engine isn't warm enough... let the engine warm up first before you drive it, it's called a cold start
hello everyone .. i think there's no problem with feul pump are throtle body bcoz i have same problem and my car is starting in any wether and any time smoothly... i change spark plugs ignation coil throtle body... but now i feel this is problem of o2 senser.. bcoz last time i open o2 senser by self and i cleaned with only cloth so now car is going better then b4.. but not 100%.. when i change throtle body so i went one shop who checking car ecu computer like this so there 1 guy he is very kind he told me that he have 8 years experience in pakistan in honda service center ..i share the problem with him so he told me that honda have a big problem that catalytic converter is near engine so its very quickly go dirty and clogging...then the o2 sensor is gaving signal to ecu that reduces the acceleration of car bcoz the gas is not going out throw exasust properly and also u wll take misfire from ignition coil cylinder 2 are 3 which is near to catalytic converter...and also you wll take poor feul milage..he told change are clean catalytic converter and o2 senser hope your car problem wll solve...
No code. Idle air control issue maybe? Fuel injector issues. Buy a new car. Or keep dumping $ into that. That is what I do. Bang throttle body with rubber mallet, or tap with screwdriver. Take it to freeway and run it up over 100mph.
I have a 2016 Honda Accord LX that hesitates at low speeds. The dealer can't reproduce the problem, so I was told just to live with it. I told the dealership that after driving Honda's since 1985, this may be my last Honda.
jvolstad if the car is new use lemon law. Video record the problem show the dealer the video. If they do nothing about it take them to court. If you win the dealer will have to replace the car completely. In order to qualify as a lemon under most state laws, the car must (1) have a substantial defect covered by the warranty that occurred within a certain period of time or number of miles after you bought the car, and (2) not be fixed after a reasonable number of repair attempts.
Not sure why you had to replace the TB as that's not a common problem on Hondas. It could be your install if the cable is not hooked up correctly. It could also be the cable going to the transmission not being adjusted correctly. I could give a more detailed answer if you post this video and your question to my forum on my website.
EricTheCarGuy i have the exact same problem. the dealer told me i had to replace my tb and of course they would b happy to do so for $1100!
EricTheCarGuy Hello Eric the car guy. I have a 99 Honda accord V6 and my honda will Not stay started and when it is started the rpms are really low and when gas pedal is pressed a little bit my honda would just die...please help thank you
having the same problem on my 2000 Honda CRV very frustrating but now thanks to all you guys I know what to look for I appreciate all the feedback this really help me out thanks
I have 11 years experience tuning Hondas for sport and race teams and I own and maintain a 99 EX as my daily eco driver. After watching this video 4 times(going back and forth to observe your issues) I can tell that before you bought it your Accord was driven hard and and rarely, if ever, serviced by a Honda Tech. The whining noise you're hearing is most likely an old, dirty and worn out idler pulley. Since you said you replaced the throttle body and it runs alright when it's warmed up (yet jumps in rpms) I can tell you it isn't a throttle problem. It's most likely an issue with the fuel management system (injectors/valves/fuel pump). Unfortunately, I'm not there so I can't feel the response or smell what the car is putting out. Let me know if you have any questions :)
brother, i need your help, pls, honda accord 2000, ex summer is excelent, no problem, winter time fail to star but no is always, look like if dond't have gas, and later star with problems smel gas, only in could whether , mecanics don find 'it, if you have tips,pls help me , im clouse to junk my carr
Djungle Djim hey, I have a 98 EX 5spd. swapped the engine myself And it accelerates slow. smells rich too
Djungle Djim so would this have to do with the fuel system every time I hold the brake while the car is on drive the rpm seems to kick back back and forth while I'm holding the brake
Djungle Dji
Ram Onairda. hey i have a 91 accord it starts and is normal when parked but soon as i put it in drive it starts off really slow and speeds up. when i get to low speeds it starts shaking and cuts off and on do you know what it could be plz.
Honda automatic transmissions are problematic. The transmission fluid filter screens (built inside the trans. so get a new transmission)get clogged and as a result it stays in one gear. While this happens its then trying to select into the next gear. It surges up and down cos its engaging 2 gears and then deciding between the 2. Hope this helps also keep this car. Quite sought after and their value is going up in the last year or 2. Theyll be worth a small fortune in 10 years id say. Very reliable cars once you change the oil regularly(no more than 6000 miles between oil changes). You should also check the oil once a month because 90s honda 4cylinder engines burn oil due to the valve guide seals being machined a bit too big from the factory. These are great cars. Never get rid of it unless its 100% completely and utterly fucked
Try your vtec solenoid because it allows oil to flow. Yours on the top. Try that before transmission because your car got a separate computer for that. How you would not vtec solenoid is by going up hill it climb slow. Another symptom it might look like a oil leak were your oil pan is. But it is really not. And run continuity check with multimeter before buying all these things. Something it want show not code for miles the vtec solenoid. Vtec 4 cylinder and v6 has them but 4 cylinder on top. Transmission just look at color it should be pink. Are vacuum leaks were the intake does that too. Suggest you pin point the problem not guess. You can even unplug the tps sensor or any sensor while running and see if it makes a difference. I fix volvos and there whole lot harder.
Try looking at the crankshaft position sensor
Or camshaft
Map sensor, not maf. I had the same problem, it's working fine ever since.
The problem is probably your FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve) which come equipped on SOME but not all 6th gen accords. When you replaced the throttle body, did you replace everything that's mounted to it as well? I ask because that's where the FITV is. It's on the bottom of the throttle body. Its sole purpose is to allow the car to idle/run properly when cold. It actually only serves a function for the first 5-15 minutes of use depending on how long the car takes to warm up.
That would be my first check simply because it only happens when the car is cold. My 6th gen (same exact car as yours actually, but a little newer) doesn't have an FITV. Which brings me to the next thing it may be, your IAC Valve (Idle Air Control) which is a little more of a pain as it's located on the back of the plenum (upper intake manifold -- the thing the throttle body mounts to). Do a little research on those two components and get back to me.
It could also be clogged EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) ports which is a common problem with these vehicles as cylinder 3 and 4 share a single EGR port rather than each having it's own.
And finally, If none of these others work, I'd check your TPS adjustment (usually throws a code p0122 I think -- ''Trottle position/pedal sensor A circuit low input'')
Good luck, pal! These are all pretty easy things to take care of, so don't feel intimidated by them! If you have any problems, google it! There are some GREAT forums online specifically for these cars, and Eric the Car Guy has some awesome videos from the IAC and FITV. WATCH THEM! Hahaha seriously, just remember that someone, somewhere, has had the same problem and found a solution and then posted that solution online somewhere. You'll be fine. Let me know if you have any questions at all! :)
Bruh when i go from park to drive my car stalls out like js turns off
That problem comes from the Crankshaft Position sensor. Usually moisture gets into the connector that goes to the harness. I re-positioned the connector on my car to an area that will not get splashes from rain or melting snow and that fixed the problem. If you wash your engine regularly you have to remember to cover this connector before you proceed to wash.
Where is it located in the engine area?
If you are standing at the front end of the engine the connector for the crank position sensor will be to the lower right side of the camshaft pully.
I just preasure washed my car a couple months back and was wondering why it wasn’t kicking as hard, this definitely helps a lot thank you man
Your throttle cable may be stretched out
yup when I tightened my throttle cable too much it would bog down and almost die everytime I threw it in neutral and coming to a stop
Have you tried unplugging it and plugging back it that always seems to work
It appears that your throttle is all over the place when you press the gas pedal. When you replaced the throttle body did you replace the throttle position sensor too? Previous owner may have tried to clean the throttle with the butterfly valve closed, in which case the TP unit could have come in contact with some carb cleaner and it's shorting out.
Neyat did you ever get this fixed? I have the same problem and have replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump assembly but has not helped.
TPS for sure...Hope you fixed it!
Loosing voltage tps needs replaced. Cut them rivets off bro lol
had the same issue on my 02 accord.found out it was the TPS assembly I replaced it and the high pitched whine went away
I have the same problem I have a 98 integra gsr and when I floor it then it bogs out and turn off and it takes a while to turn back on can it be the tps sensor or there a fuel problem
probably fuel or something along those lines. also how are your cables adjusted?
Did u find out the problem I'm having same problem with my 98 Honda accord lx
also sounds like throttle position sensor
I believe your issue here is a Clogged Catalytic converter. The vehicle isn't able to release proper pressure, and erratic driving, bogging , low performance without being in limp mode. I personally would replace Spark plugs with MGK V-Power, and unscrew your upstream O2 sensor. Just as a test to see if it makes a difference, leave O2 sensor out of the exhaust manifold and start car. Drive car with just an open hole where the sensor was and see if the symptoms improved. The cars going to be loud when sensors removed. It's temporarily allow back pressure to release considering cat converter is clogged. I'm just trying to think of anything different from the norm. Also, the Accord has 2 different Main Transmission Solenoids. There's the lock up solenoid and the dual linear solenoid. Both serving different purposes. Good luck!
I have the same issue with my 2001 accord, i changed the shift selenoid and nothing happened,still doing the same thing whenever i stop and try to speed. now i am thinking to check the mass air flow lol. I don't rearlly want to rebuild the transmission it costs money though, so i will try to check the parts that i can reach easily
did it work?
@@PEACEFULWARRIOR999 no, still shifting, i may have to rebuild the transmission 😕
@@faridatamazight7789 so you changed the silinoid and still not working? did you have any check engine light on? I know the feeling but Im not rebuilding nothing that shit is probably hard as fuck. I cleaned the egr ports that didn't do it so I will do a transmission oil change check the selenoids clean everything as best as I can but I doubt it will fix it because I too most likely have a torque messed up or I don't know there's so many fuckin things, that if I where to do them all and still nothing I probably just buy a tricycle. oh yeah the map sensor also. see you know what's fucked up is the fact that the fuckin car doesn't tell you wtf is going on and I paid a guy to come diagnose my car and even he was like it's the transmission but it wasn't clear on to what it was. so I would have to tow it just so I get the same diagnostic so that's like 200 plus 3000 give or take fuck that shit ill buy a new car
@@PEACEFULWARRIOR999 It didn't work, i have check engine light Sometimes and whenever i have it my car slows down doesn't speed up until i took off the battery for a second in order to clair the check engine light. too much parts it's hard to know which one causes the problem, i took it to my mechanic and the code he gave me was for the same selenoid that i already changed !!!
@@faridatamazight7789 so does your car run? dude you should always go by the codes from the check engine light first, I bet you had a blast trying to find a radio code. if your mechanic told you that then your mechanic was obviously wrong. so this is key, only u know your car right, what do you think happened like for example my car had a major oil leak that was the beginning then when my car wouldn't move or accelerate I checked the engine and I saw a huge cut and gash on the air intake hose, at first I thought that's it so I fixed it and the fucking car would still do the same thing I could drive it for a few seconds until I had to stop then it wouldn't engage in drive. don't u hate that shit lol
It could be alot of things , like h02 sensor or vacuum leak , def check for that , it can cause a lil humm or whistle , also check the VTEC solenoid . I'm working on a Honda as I speak going through the same thing. Check your fuel pressure as well to make clear its not the pump , fuel lines , or fuel relay going bad . these commons things always been a honda issue .
type of oil r u using? 5w20 0w20 cold weather. also you cat can be clogged. it was doing this to me and my cat was my problem.. didn't send any codes mal light wasn't on and exhaust back pressure was jumping when I toke the cat off I was it was clogged.. changed it and car run like I got from the dealer..
Might be the paint job that's causing it, repaint the car and see what happens.
Lol. Mine looks the same. .. 98 beater commute car
Lmao! Might be
Replace throttle body position sensor.
Also, just noticed that when your car's engine does decide to work for you, you're revving high but moving slow. This indicates a clutch problem. I'd bet a pack of gummy worms and my cable remote that whoever you purchased this car from drove it very hard and reckless, i.e. they most likely floored it off the line at every light trying to race it, put it to the limit on the highways, and more than likely treated the cars transmission as if it were a manual/tiptronic transmission. Again, let me know if you have a questions :)
Djungle Djim hey bud I have the same issue with 94 vtech ex I have replaced transmission and throttle cable but still have the same problem any advice ?
Your TB are ok, it rev and idle fine, I'm sure your gearbox transmission fluid never been change before or the fluid was low. It will ruin your forward clutch. I seen it some people with start up clutch issue .. meaning it will not move in D until it warm up till 20mins.Just replace it.
i have the exact same problem with my 01 accord. i replaced my iac valve, maf sensor, tps, various parts costing me a lot of money and finaly got so pissed of i took it yo the dealer for diagnosis. $135 told me it was the throttle body and 02 sensor number 1.
so it’s the fluid that has to be replaced? having the same problem
So....
What was the problem?
Did you get it fixed already?
Please tell us......
I ended up selling the car after 4 shops in my area didn't know what was wrong and they all just recommended the replacement of the engine and trans, now I drive a 09' Escalade ESV with no problems at all except gas mileage lol
I have 2002 accord .my car 1 to 2, 2 to 3 shifting time more rise engine . some time fully vibration (4 cylinder , A/T)
IF I DRIVE UNDER 2000 RPM ALL GEAR WILL SHIFT SMOOTHLY.DO you know the reason.
not showing (MIL LIGHT & TRANSMISSION LIGHT)
Sinto Paul My exboyfriend has a 98 honda accord. we had transmission problems until we started to change transmission fluid every 10000-20000 miles adding lucas transmission treatment. now the car's tranny runs better than ever. Give that a try.
+BADCHICK498 you wouldn't have to change it that often if you used Honda ATF. Some places might have it, but it usually needs to be ordered from Honda. Anybody who's worked on Honda's should've told you that...
I used to work as an associate racing mech for Honda/Acura USA and the above is actually not true. The Honda ATF DW1 is not better than your standard(and cheaper) ATFs, it's simply required by Honda and the price inflated. The main reason it's required is so that if anything other than DW1 is detected they can void the manufacturer warranty. This became policy after the 1999 AT recall so that Honda could void warranties on ATs that weren't serviced by Honda dealerships using Honda authorized parts and fluids.
Cheers!
Same issue with my 02 accord ex4 cylinder with the whining noise
What was the problem?
This is happening to my 98 Honda accord as well I was told was the tps
Did you get it ficef
Have you ever drove it like a manual transmission. My 2004 Malibu does this but I let off the gas and the gears change
my boy you got a fucked up transmission
i'm having the exact problem with my ford explorer. it is definitely a tps sensor, but wondering if a transmission replace is necessary?
is it really cylinder head issues?
Check out the throttle position sensor in it
did you ever find out what the issue was? I've got the EXACT problem with 2002 honda civic 5speed. it's been to numerous shops. I gotta figure this out.
Amanda Delong I'm having the same issue with my 93 accord
I’m having the same issue
Iac problem i had same issue in the morning it would turn on and it will try to shut it self down figure out tha the iac was the problem
I had similar problem and my cause was auto part store transmission fluid...I switched to Honda atf dw1 and drove for a week on the 3 quarts then I drained them and put 3 more in and car runs way better. I still will drain and put 3 more in that what the experts say. I also changed coolant and did I a fresh oil Change.
Gut out your catalytic converter that was my problem .remove your oxygen sensor and try it it’s going to sound loud but if you get power back it means a clogged converter
looks like mass airflow sensor
Doesn't have one.
spray some throttle cleaner through the throttle plate it's probably gunk deeper down
I had a similar problem and in my case it happened when the car was exposed to cold weather. I solved it changing the plugs. If you see clearly on the video, you can see that when you change to D4, the light indicator doesnt turn on.
When this happened to me, I left the car some time turned on, and afterwards just turned it off and then on, and the problem was gone.
Once I changed the plugs, problem dissapeared.
Hope it helps others who have this problem.
what "plugs"?
what pulgs ?
i have a 91 accord my throttle body is messed up aswell except i have replced it an also replace the entire wire that runs from throttle body to the gas pedal an still no luck, i step on gas pedal an the car goes nowhere
Did you ever get your issue fixed? I have a Honda Civic & thinking I may have to replace the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Because the RPM's haven't been consistent. And basically the same thing, not big on picking up speed. Best wishes.
+Zachariha Rachel
hey did you fix your civic?
Thinks it's either the vss speed sensor or yu need a transmission 98 accord
i a Honda 91 Accord how do i change it the throttle cable
you would have to trace the cable back to the pedal and remove it. follow the same procedure to replace the new one.
Mine doing same and is 98 Lx manual but sometimes get higher rpm and sometimes I can't pass from 3500rpm but I think is for oil change cuz when I doing oil change is work fine again
Mine the same prob? So how do we solve that?
Did you get it fixed?
Check the map sensor
looks like a transmission problem. could be throttle cable also..
I have a accord 96vtec and it runs but don't have streng on hills and don't change gears on the take off almost halfway the throttle and it still won't go it will go very slow can someone give me some tips on where to look for the problem thank you for the advice
Geraldo Ponce hey did you ever figure this out I have a similar issue
Flooring it. turning steering wheel till it stops. Driving like a maniac in the snow.
Looks like new front motor mount, I know mine needs a new front motor mount about every 100k due to me driving the piss out of it, Those little motors tear the asshole out of the front motor mounts when you drive it like you stole it.
That things been rode hard and put away wet for 20 years, its probably not even on the road anymore today.
What was it my car does the same thing..... I changed the fuel filter mass air flow sensor calystic vent solenoid..... took it to a mechanic an they said it's the throttle body flap open a lil bit.....smh o yeah changed the TPS sensor to all the coils, an plugs.....🤯🤯🤯
Did you calibrate it
for me it was the camshaft position sensor an the crankshaft position sensor.... both was bad
start the car and let it sit for a couple mins before you drive it. it doesn't want to move because the engine isn't warm enough... let the engine warm up first before you drive it, it's called a cold start
TPS • or ur gas pedal Accelerator sensor
Idle air control valve need to be cleaned and the fast Idle thermostat valve also.
Thanks a bunch and I posted it so I hope I find the answer shortly!
"It is working now [...] I don't know [...] I don't know [...] sometimes it seems like [...] I don't know"
My audi 2000 I got the same problem. help please.
i got the same problem in my ford figo 2010
Might be speed sensor
Try switching the gears manually.
Bingo!
hello everyone .. i think there's no problem with feul pump are throtle body bcoz i have same problem and my car is starting in any wether and any time smoothly... i change spark plugs ignation coil throtle body... but now i feel this is problem of o2 senser.. bcoz last time i open o2 senser by self and i cleaned with only cloth so now car is going better then b4.. but not 100%.. when i change throtle body so i went one shop who checking car ecu computer like this so there 1 guy he is very kind he told me that he have 8 years experience in pakistan in honda service center ..i share the problem with him so he told me that honda have a big problem that catalytic converter is near engine so its very quickly go dirty and clogging...then the o2 sensor is gaving signal to ecu that reduces the acceleration of car bcoz the gas is not going out throw exasust properly and also u wll take misfire from ignition coil cylinder 2 are 3 which is near to catalytic converter...and also you wll take poor feul milage..he told change are clean catalytic converter and o2 senser hope your car problem wll solve...
No code.
Idle air control issue maybe? Fuel injector issues.
Buy a new car. Or keep dumping $ into that. That is what I do. Bang throttle body with rubber mallet, or tap with screwdriver. Take it to freeway and run it up over 100mph.
Thats da TPS
Take the car back to the person that said he fix it
Map sensor
Your transmission clutch plate are gone
Your transmiss is failing
U need to calibrate tps
You move the camera to much bro.. Thanks for the video anyway.
fluid change filter on transmission
Fuel pump
I have a 2016 Honda Accord LX that hesitates at low speeds. The dealer can't reproduce the problem, so I was told just to live with it. I told the dealership that after driving Honda's since 1985, this may be my last Honda.
jvolstad if the car is new use lemon law. Video record the problem show the dealer the video. If they do nothing about it take them to court. If you win the dealer will have to replace the car completely.
In order to qualify as a lemon under most state laws, the car must (1) have a substantial defect covered by the warranty that occurred within a certain period of time or number of miles after you bought the car, and (2) not be fixed after a reasonable number of repair attempts.
جوتيك عجيب
TPS sensoor!!
same problrm in my ford figo 2010
It's the transmission. Our 2002 Accord has the same problem
speed sensor Amazon 13 dollars
Catalytic converter
Tps
Tps sensor
TPS
more like your iacv valve.
Ill an automatic yucky
Fuel filter