Removing Stuck Leveling Bolts from American Pacemaker
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2024
- 8 of the leveling bolts in the American Pacemaker lathe were stuck and needed to be removed, so the decision was made to remove all 12 of them to properly clean them up, chase the holes with a tap and get them all working freely so that we could properly use them to level the machine.
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My man really made a whole video of unscrewing bolts
40minutes and i watched it all!
Old guy here that's been doing industrial work and machine setting and such for over 30 years -
Stuck leveling bolts are common on old machines. You don't necessarily have to get them to unscrew to free them up, you just need to get them to move one way or the other.
Penetrating fluid works a LOT better on a screw thread that is somewhat movable in any way. Run it up, run it down, run it sideways if you can - just get it to move. Then flood it with penetrating fluid wherever you can and move it back and forth to help the fluid do its thing.
On bolts like that when they don't move, you'll almost always have to rely on either other measures (see below) or a couple of days for the penetrating fluid to SLOWLY creep down through the threads.
The other measures include heating the bolt with a torch or heat gun. The coefficient of thermal expansion and contraction will force the bolt to "move" in a way that no wrench or ratchet ever will. Once it moves just a teensy bit and breaks that corrosion bond, you're in business. Impact driving is another way to do it, but just don't get married to getting the thing to unscrew. Screw the thing in a little if you have to in order to get it to move. Flood it with penetrant lube, and work it back and forth until it bends to your will.
You can also get results with slapping the hell out of it with a hammer a few times, but you have to be careful not to hit it in an asymmetrical way to the axis of the bolt. Also, it's best to use something like a brass or copper intermediate metal between the bolt and the hammer to avoid deformation of the bolt head.
As for cleaning up the load bearing surface of the bottoms of those bolts, a basic beveling of the edges would suffice - something like 1/16th to 1/8th inch would be plenty, even if you just eye-balled it with a file. Any 'smoosh out' on the resulting surface wouldn't be enough to matter in the long run.
As for the guy that had the bad threads, they seemed to be at the limiting range of the bolt, and that's not really where you want to live. Go ahead and thread file it, but shim the pad under it if you have to, to where you're operating somewhere within the mid-range of adjustment of the leveling bolt. Frankly, that's not a bad idea for all the leveling points in general.
I agree on the anti seize. This is a new building you're in, and I would bet a whole dollar that a few years down the road that lathe will be hella out of level and need adjusting due to normal compaction of the soil beneath the pad.
I like to buy the cheap brushes for cleaning copper plumbing fittings, the ones with a twisted wire handle. I cut off the loop at the end and chuck them in a drill. Works great for power brushing any holes, including copper pipe fittings. They don't have to fit the hole exactly, just "orbit" the brush around inside the hole.
I do the same thing
Giving these leveling bolts the attention they deserve to set a wrong situation right again is one of the most satisfying feelings as a human being. When you know you know. Excellent job sir.
That little impact gun sure as hell earned its keep on this job!
Breathing new life into old machines! No better time is spent than watching this sort of thing - except, of course, doing this sort of thing! Hey Adam, it would be amazing to see new life brought to the entire lathe through a complete restoration! I realize you'd like to put it to use ASAP so perhaps segments between jobs where it gets mini-renovations here and there?! That would be something indeed!
Especially a paint job.
Keith Rucker vintage machinery he has done a few full restoration on machines
@@kylewilliams1329 seconded
Adam I love the way no matter how long or out of the way you make sure everything is done properly and looking new
Gonna have to say, that little DeWalt impact is a champ!
Nice to see a guy spend the time to do best job possible. Between soaking over night ,running tap thru holes , wire brush and never seeze 40 years from now every bolt will be easy to remove. Have used a thread pitch gauge to help clean out tapped holes that I could not run a tap thru. By no means perfect but will remove some crap from threads. Good luck with nice new shop.
Always nice to see something old, crusty, and rusty look like new again. Well done sir!
that's the level of detail that I appreciate about you, Adam. You're really doing a great job restoring a nice old machine. Keep up the good work.
RE: the drill into the threads. Lots of possible reasons already mentioned, but one I was taught way back when is to do that when a thread is dinged and prevents running the screw through. Can't get a rethread die in, can't get a good angle with a file, drill the ding away. I've done it using a long centre punch to help start the drill followed by a aircraft drill. Muh less damage then the common wale away with a grinder, file, and whatever you can squeeze in at arm's length.
Chrome sockets can damage fasteners if used with an impact gun, it's because they're made of a harder steel. The black impact sockets are heavier and made of softer metal. They're heavier so they have more inertia which provides more hammering force and softer to prevent damage to the fasteners. I know chrome sockets are all you have sometimes, but just so you know for future reference Abom79.
Exact-a- Mundo!!! 💯 correct.
Thanks for explaining that, I always wondered why they made specific "Impact" sockets... I always thought the cromed ones were not strong enough to take the impact and could break
@@Ranger_Kevin I believe the chrome ones break because they are too hard/strong; years ago I broke three heavy craftsman sockets trying to break free something on an Acura engine (I forget what...), the fourth one finally did the trick. The bolt/nut had no damage at all. I've never gotten around to buying proper impact sockets because I use them so infrequently.
It can also damage the hammer inside the impact gun
@@mikeyg4297 that makes sense because the chrome sockets wouldn't absorb the hammering action as much so all that shock would go back into the impact gun.
When you use penetrating oil it helps if you smack the bolt with a hammer a couple times each time you spray. The vibration helps the penetrating oil get into the threads quicker.
Love when Adam put his ear plugs in and the sound on the video got quieter. Those are some good ear plugs.
Damn yeah
lol
Cleanest machine shop and machinist in the history of machinists!!! Might be able to eat off the floor. !!
...IT'S A RELATIVELY NEW FACILITY-(?)
Adam is the consummate machinist. Makes things beautiful, even when most people will never see them! My hats off to you sir!
There something about you Adam that most people don't have. Not many people could make a video about removing bolts and have people actually watch it lol but you do and for some reason I like it.
Having been seriously delayed by frozen or broken bolts to me the attraction is another guys method to deal with this issue.
@@SirDeanosity Soaking and the few that needed heat has always worked for me. Other than that it was kind of a joke I honestly didn't think anyone would read that and take it seriously...
Adam one thing I can say about you and your work ethic is I NEVER have seen you do anything anyway near half assed not even when it is a $2 dollar repair that cost more to mail than the repair paid you.
Good job and keep up the videos 👍👍👍
Wow Abom, I love watching your journey. My shop is humble but I work toward my dream daily. I am an old lady playing beat the clock, but I will never give up. Thank you for all the education you provide.
the vibration from the impacting is usually what helps with the rusty stuff, in tandem with the penetrant. Always amazing how much of a difference it makes.
That was so satisfying watching them go from stuck, rough and rusty to cleaned and re-faced. The speed at which you cleaned up the face of the bolts was impressive.
I have absolutely no idea why I watch these kind of videos... But I love them, and I just love to see a corroded thread being cleaned, lubricated and functional again! Oh, I just answered my initial statement! ❤🇸🇪
You truly make it like we are hanging out at the shop watching you work. Your dedication to sharing your love for this work makes many of us happy. So much better than watching someone play a video game. Share what you love and the world will improve.
Thanks to my first exposure to PIG MAT on this channel, I ordered two bunches off Amazon. Pig Mat is a fantastic product. Thanks
Type F automatic fluid works wonders many times. I used it to ease out a long seized piston. No kidding it worked super. Cheers
At Albian Sands we used to make a home brew- 50/50 Kroil and ATF, and spike it with a splash of acetone. Worked very well!
it's nice feeling to get a stuck bolt moving just that little you know it' s possible to get out. i watched whole video and some said that this is same as watch paint drying, but i say this is much more interesting, well done
Always love the videos you do Adam, no matter what I am watching, when you upload and it comes into my notifications I stop what I am watching and then watch your amazing video!
Glad to hear you’re enjoying them! 👍🏻
@@Abom79 I really am enjoying this, its showing the way that things are done Machining is a lost trade, it definitely needs supporting, what you do is art!
Tip & trick: In cases poor access like this on cars and trucks what I do is get a cheap plumbers cleaning brush (used to clean copper fittings before soldering) around 4$ at H.D. and cut the handle off. I then chuck that in a drill and run it in the threads, that gets most of the crap and corrosion out and chasing threads with the tap is so much easier after.
Ratcheting boxend wrenches are handy in any toolbox. My set was sold by Craftsman and made in the U.S. about forty years ago. A ratcheting pass through lineman's wrench is also a good addition to a toolbox. I think one would have been a great time saver in chasing the threads and in loosening some of the bolts. .
Well I finally learned for 100% certain what I already knew - penetrating fluid is eff all use to man nor beast. Soak it for days and it doesn't penetrate any solid rust beyond about 1 thread.
Heat, and vibration is what works. A bit of oily spray is good for when unscrewing the loosened bolt, to prevent more damage to the treads.
@@the_hate_inside1085 Yes, I'd say that sums it up well.
Glad you're making these videos. With my zero machining experience, it's a great help getting my '47 14x54 set up. Thanks.
I have used the brushes for cleaning copper pipe internals for soldering to clean out the filth in threaded pieces. In some cases I cut handle off and put it in a drill for quick cleaning. Works well where you can’t run a tap through. Using this with degreaser spray works well for me.
The Damage was probably cause at initial installation, they were in a hurry to get Military parts ready for the war in 1939.. ;) .! Great work Adam.!
No penetrating oil will go down the threads unless you use some sort of shock treatment (hammer, zip gun etc. to break loose the rust bond. However I once saw a guy in Mexico use just water and patiently rapping with a hammer to break loose 4 7/16" bolts on a manifold from a John Deere A that I bought... he got all 4 bolts out even though they were rusted in the cast iron manifold and the threads in the head....
That is an old gunsmith’s trick for freeing rusted screws. Since moisture caused the oxidation in the first place it makes sense that water will help loosen it up. I have done that myself quite a few times and it does work.
So nice to see that you are still in business. I really enjoy the work you do in a steady and patient pace. Greetings from Denmark
It makes sense the hardest ones to remove were probably exposed to dripping coolant from the tray above. I loved the workout you gave to the DeWalt💪💪😁
I'm honestly impressed by that little impact. You lose a good bit of torque with that extension, but it still did the job!
After that big wrench couldn't pull those, I saw the cute little impact gun and thought there was no chance... then it immediately worked. Pretty impressive.
Thinking the same exact thing. Atomic in name for a reason, I guess ...
Adam use the fewest extensions you can on your impact, you would be surprised how much of a change there is, the more extensions the less power the impact gives what your trying to take off!!! In any case no extensions is best. Fyi! Keep up the content Im not a machinist but I have been a mechanic my whole life and have used some of the machines you use in the best way I could. I really like the stuff with motorcycle parts!
those bolts were in there goodantight
and you got em out and cleaned up and restored as well as possibly could be done. They will he serviceable for another 80 plus years.
I also enjoy reading the comments from all the “internet professionals” who simply cannot stand to enjoy the journey and feel compelled to let you know every minuscule item they think you could have done different.
That impact driver did some work. I can almost smell it here, all over the atlantic ocean. ;)
I love how you care for details, even the ones that doesn´t really make any difference to function.
Surprised that little gun with all those extensions pulled that off. Awesome!
Adam, on cleaning up those threads, I would suggest a wire wheel in your drill while "chasing" it with your spray penetrating fluid. I did this when I was cleaning up the bolt holes on my 1930's Atlas machinists lathe as I was pulling everything apart
I didn’t think that removing some bolts and chasing the threads could be a 40 minute video but I’ve been wrong before
This is exactly what I was thinking 🤣. Now another 40 minutes for fixing the thread and leveling the lathe. 😁✌️
@from the dark side of the moon the bright side of the moon
Loving this new shop series! Congrats Adam!
How very nice to see you setting up your new shop.
The first 13 minutes sold me on the Dewalt impact!! Lol
I always like your shows. Keep making more. my wife recently bought a large stainless drink cup like yours.
good job showing people without a lot of experience how to do an important job.
Once again Adam, you have made my day a little bit better, Thank you!
Wow I'm impressed by the atomic impact drill, I'm really not a fan of de-walt but that was a really good test.. 👍👍 cheers for the update 🇳🇿🤘
It's wonderful to see a job done with such attention to detail :-)
Love seeing this old machine coming back to life. This is the content I love to watch. I’d avoid antiseize and use a high quality grease. I’ve never had any good luck with antiseize. It makes a mess allows moisture to the metal which creates rust etc. Grease not only protects the metal it doesn’t allow moisture past and never seizes even after 100 years. I’ve broken open 80&90 years old caterpillars that have had grease used on nuts and bolts that were so easy to take apart and the nut and bolts looked new still.
Yes, seen antiseize so solid in there that it took a dozen of us, whaling on the clamped on extractor collar with 8lb sledge hammers, plus a heat gun on the aluminium shaft, to get it to finally pop loose. At least it had done it's job, keeping the 2m long cylinder from corroding, but that was quite a long 3 hours of work. New one, after the housing had been cleaned, washed and had almost 2kg of new fresh yellow stinky antiseize applied liberally inside, and to the new cylinder, went in easily, and likely is still able to come out, as the cap had it's seals put on properly this time, and was thus not going to allow the goop to dry out. Manual said a half hour to do this, but this was spread over 3 days instead.
Mmmm.... The legendary Abom Torque defeated by a tiny yellow dude... Tough Times Ahead for the West
Here’s a fun drinking game. Do a shot every time he sets up a “that’s what she said”
@Abom79 The adjuster with the weird drill hole on the side. In the past while out in the field, we've had damaged threads that needed to be repaired in a pinch and no thread files were on hand. So, we drilled the damage out of the threads. Might be why that part had that odd drill spot in it.
There are times when I would screw the leveling screw down through rather than trying to back them out. Some of them can be impossible.
I do enjoy these videos. It's great you take us through the entire process.
@abom79 best guess for the damage on the faces is that they were not being retracted before the machinery movers were pushing them around. The mushrooms are probably from their lever bars push on the machine.
super pumped to see them installed and leveled, cheers!
Great to see a bloke loving the old equipment.
Adam I know that you are sponsored, but you can buy a spray that works really well for that purpose. It's a lubricant with freezing effect. See Loctite 8040 or Würth rost off-max ice
I bought one of those DCF921 impact guns for a good buddy of mine and it has never failed to impress but damn is it loud!
An old cookie baking sheet makes a great catch can for catching drips. ✌
Adam, great job! Looking forward to see that bolts in the machine
Adam, nice work as always. Most folks would break them free and that’s it.
The evolution of tools required hahahaha I do the same thing " Im gonna be noble and hard working and use the wrench..." annnnnd the impact comes out hahaha
Wow as fenner would say The King of level screwing has arrived awesome🐓🐓🐓
I love the fact that you take so much care of your work it looks awesome
Cannot believe that impact broke that, wow unbelievable
This video was a bit like watching grass grow BUT, I enjoyed the heck out of it.
Now that you have 2 shops, you do know whatever odd tool you need it will be at the other shop? As far as the inaccessible holes, get some appropriate size wire bottle brushes, cut the handles off, chuck them in a drill, and go to town.
I know I'm a bit late to the party, but one of the things I like to do for really rusted internal threads is to use the Evapo-Rust Gel. It sticks to the threads really well and works just as well as the liquid.
I’ve had pretty good luck with that penetrant called JB80. That stuff fizzes pretty good and so far it’s knocked everything loose I’ve used it on while working on cars. Good thing you got to them bolts when you did Adam. Another year or two and I gotta feeling you would have had to resort to using a little heat. Nice work Adam
Usually when I have to use penetrating oil, I put it on, then give everything a solid rap with a steel hammer. Not to use the force of the hammer, but to set up vibrations that will make just a bit of room in the threads. This can help the oil seep in a little more. Then more oil, morw raps.
That Dewalt made light work of those screws, proper power
Looks like you need to get yourself some ratchet spanners, good for those tight spots, but love the pride you take in making things right again!
Ratcheting wrenches are real nice for running taps through holes for cleanup. They don't add any height to the setup.
Glad you got them out and happy the feet weren't wrecked.
It's refreshing to see an American machining the way I do as trained when I did my time screw cutting etc. Joe pie told me off for not using the three wire method measuring screw threads we don't use them in the UK you can't even buy them it's all go-no go gages or thread mic's sometimes make a point adapter to fit regular mic's
@5:12 when you go to put that panel back on do what we call in the military a FEP (form in place) seal. Lay your sealant down (in the navy we used mil-s-8802) then put a layer of petroleum (WD40, Vaseline etc) on top of it which will stop the sealant from sticking to the panel but will still make a seal so the next time you have to lift that panel the seal will still be good.
Looking forward to the leveling, you got everything cleaned up goo. Thanks for sharing. Fred .
Had to pause the video to order a dewalt 1/2 atomic impact driver. Thanks for sharing!
Running the tap thru the holes, is why you need an apprentice! Where's Abby? (Did I say that out loud?) LOL
My American had stuck leveling bolts too- smaller lathe they were square head screws. I found a 12pt metric socket that mated to the heads and put a right angle air impact to them. In and out a few times, adding oil got them moving OK. Was a fun dance getting the lathe level and all the bolts taking weight :)
I bought a 16 x102 Pacemaker from Kenneth and Patrick at Neosho Industrial Supply. I live a town near there, Grove Oklahoma. I saw your TH-cam video reviewing them. Thanks!
I'm the guy that wouldn't have noticed the access plate until after i did the job haha
Couple things. Project Farm did some research and the max torque you can get on a 6 point bolt or nut is with a 6 point wrench or socket. A 12 point not as good and can strip sooner. Also on hard to get nuts or bolts use a breaker bar to avoid breaking your good ratchet socket wrench. You can add a pipe extension for more leverage if needed.
Congrats Abom on getting the Bolts cleaned-up. they look great now. lv ur videos..
Damn, Abom must have a lot of extra time on his hands.
That picture of your pops and grandpa is pretty cool man .
I see that all of these leveling screws were installed with the original nature’s LocTite known as “RUST”. (:-))) That powerful Dewalt sure did a great job breaking them loose.
That type of jack bolt has the hole thru them for a concrete anchor. You get it leveled then hold it fast with a wrench while tighting down the anchor....
Potentially crazy idea: Have some of those finger-sizzler vibrators around the shop to tape on top of the bolts with knock'er loose applied to the fastener. The vibrator is low-power and most importantly, high frequency so it might also help the penetrant to reach the threads easier if there is a slight movement on it?
Interesting to see you chuck those screws by the thread. Obviously you have the knack of getting just enough clamping without damaging the thread, so that the cutting forces don't turn the part in the chuck.
Thats years of experience for you, plus 6 jaw chuck and only light cutting forces so its fine to do it like that.
He did mention the bolts were somewhat hardened, so he probably felt it’d be okay, and from the looks of it he was right.
It's truly astounding what these modern cordless impact drivers are capable of. Years and years ago electric impacts were a joke tool and always trumped by air. Lithium batteries and these drivers are the unsung heroes of the 21st century
That Dewalt that he is using is a "toy", I use a Milwaukee 2767-20 every day on the road changing tires.
It has 1000 ft/lbs tightening , and 1400 ft/lbs breakaway torque, I have to be careful tightening because it will actually break the wheel stud on a car if I over tighten.
I really need to get a set of torque limiting sockets.
@@garybrenner6236 that dewalt isnt a toy. It broke loose something that a fairly long ratchet couldn't budge with Adam on it.
@@garybrenner6236 he would have to upgrade his ear plugs a 2767-20.
@@maggs131 Big Adam should have been pushing putting weight behind him, instead of using only his arms and pulling.
@@maggs131 I beg your pardon, but it is a toy!
That Dewalt has 300 ft/lbs tightening and 450 ft/lbs breakaway torque, way less than half that of the Milwaukee.
The power of will grease did it.Thank you.
Never thought Inwould see you use an impact driver on a tap!