36 people disliked this? What the hell people--what more do you want in a video? Abom, you're incredible. The lunacy of some TH-cam viewers notwithstanding, anyone who has done anything even remotely similar to this will appreciate how good of a job you do on this stuff.
I always without complaining wondered why the local machine shop charged me so much each time I took an engine head off my dirt track car or off my 8N Ford tractor to have the head machined, valves reseated or cylinders honed, or crank or cam balanced or "YES", to have a broken head bolt removed, Now many years later, I can appreciate how much technical knowledge, precise machine work, and costly machine tools goes into machining and/or repairing of engines and their parts. Thank you for an exceptionally well explained, work detailed, and informative video.
You love what you do, you take time to do it right. Too many younger people today take no pride in their work, they're only there for a paycheck. I worked in a machine shop environment for 35 years. First as a machinist, then as the shop supervisor, and I wish I had had just a few that were as conscientious as you. Keep up the good work Adam, really enjoy your videos.
After reading your compliment I can't help but Wonder. Is video is very informing and he sounds like a most patient person. I just can't imagine what your bill is to have this done on something I got a boat motor that needs four broken off bolt removed, and maybe packed out to the same size or larger. Eminem four boys I sure as hell can't afford to have somebody do it or buy any tools that he uses. I've bored out Maddie engine blocks and heads easy out the screws were sometimes just tap them anyway and always had the motors work. I used less than thirty bucks worth of tools on your job and pennies i n parts.
People should consult a professional like yourself, Adam, before attempting Jack Leg repairs like the motorcycle owner made. It costs them much more in the long run. But, precision repairs buts bread an butter on your table. I was completely impressed, as usual, with your outstanding, concise, precision repair. Thanks for these videos. I am not a machinist, but, an admirer of your work. John
I've done lots of Heli-coil type thread repairs over the years, and had to fix a few others' off-center drill jobs, but this one was nasty! Nicely done, as usual.
I really hope the bike owner takes a look at this video - jus to see how much attention to detail you give to your work as well as why you do what you do. Brilliant!
Not to mention so they realize that their little bit of amateur repair work came within a gnat's hair of costing them a great deal more than this already is going to. If they'd taken it to the mechanic as soon as they broke that bolt, it would have probably been pretty quick fix with an easy out.
The guy that worked on this worked on my XR500 (Magnesium head) Stripped out the head bolts, so they put heli-coils in, and stripped those out too (slow learners?) Me being out in the sticks, made my own time-serts.. It was a 10mm head bolt, I drilled and tapped for 1/2NF, found an old bolt, drilled and tapped that for 10mm, cut it to length, some red locktite and installed it.. been doing well for years now.. Unfortunately I didn't catch all the 6mm rocker cover bolts that were stripped out so it'll be coming apart again this winter to fix those. Great vid!
Great job!!! As an engine builder a little trick to keep chips from the valve springs or and place you would not want chip to contaminate I use wheel bearing grease over the parts to protect and the chips stay suspended on top of grease. The hair on my neck would stand up when I see them chips fall in the valve spring pocket. Love the videos.
Sir, your ability to repair a very expensive part like this so that it is still usable proves that all of the cynics and trolls out there (that don't make their own videos) do not know what they are talking about. THANK YOU from those of us that actually want to learn new things!!!
Those inserts work great. They don't turn or slip in the holes once set. I only draw back with them is when get screwed up themselves. You have to drill them out and they are harder to get out because of the pins.
Love your videos where you have to repair someone else's mistakes. Don't these people know this is how you make the big bucks? A very talented man you are!!!
As a mechanic, drilling out broken studs and bolts while the component is still attached to the vehicle can become a real chore, especially on the exhaust where bolts and studs have heat hardened and are rusted and the housing is cast. I often go straight for a Dremel or a die grinder with a small tungsten ball grinding burr right from the get go and grind from the centre out until I touch threads and then clean out the thread hole, it often seems like the time consuming method but there is a risk sometimes using heat or welding near cast iron as the material can harden and end up breaking the teeth off your tap when you try to clean up the thread. The most preferred method is to get the component off and send to a machinist though. 👍
One of life's delicious pleasures for me, is to watch a master of his craft doing his professional best. Adam never ever fails to keep my eyes glued to his work as he does it. I can't imagine that this man ever thinks to himself, "Oh sod it, that'll do". As many seem to do these days. Whenever I hear him say something like "Well, it's within half a thou'.. I always reckon the actual tolerance is probably more like ten to twenty thou', lol. Stay safe sir and keep these videos coming. .
Awesome video. Only remark i have of working with heads that have installed parts is try to tape every hole possible shut to keep chips out. Makes life easier to clean.
Adam, very well done video, excellent repair for a common problem. Everyone tries to drill a broken steel bolt out of an aluminum base. It never works. I can see the frustration in the depth of the offset hole, it was a bad day for that guy. Your video shows the parts and process very clearly, I like how you "found" the true location for the original hole. Nice.
I actually think he measured the taps so that when he put that flat bar up against them he could figure in any differences in their thickness if it was necessary. Remember he used those to indicate the entire head
That was to make sure the shoulders were both the same diameter. That let Adam be sure he could square up on the Parallel he butted up against those taps. You'd 'assume' they were the same diameter, and I suspect most people would have gone right ahead and indicated without checking. There was only about 120mm between the hole centers he was using, so a few thou difference in those diameters could have been significant. I can't put my hand on my heart, and swear that I would have thought to check those shoulder diameters. :-(
As the guys here mentioned, I measured the tap shanks to assure they were the same diameter because I was using them for a fixed point of reference to measure. 👍🏻
For those wondering, that hole is for the camshaft retaining cap. It's not gonna cause any issue with the head mating to the block. Additionally, I'd bet it'll be like stronger than the original aluminum threads. So torque spec won't be an issue either. I'm amazed how deep the dude continued to drill, though! Wow!
murkinstock especially if it's a Yamaha for some reason their aluminum is very weak, I can't tell you how many YFZ 450 is I worked on and even when you torque the Cam Caps to spec they still strip out it's a common issue. That very reason I hate working on Yama junk.
@@shawbros Just so you know, there are traps made to be used in hand drills. DeWalt makes them. Also, using traps in a hand drill can be done perfectly fine. It all depends on the application. If you've got 100 holes to tap on ¼ steel, run them in with a drill. I've taped hunters of holes with a hand drill (where concentricity didn't matter) and never had an issue. You obviously wouldn't want to do it on a motor head, but there certainly are places where it's perfectly fine.
Ohh, that makes me want to go to the shop. Machine shop and motorcycle parts can't be beat. Nice job and really like the choice if inserts. Appreciated !
I love your channel. I am not a machinist but I love people that can explain what they are doing in a language that everyone understands. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome job on drilling out the old bolt that was broken inside the head, I always loved it when I got jobs after someone ruined it so bad that they called me as a last chance to save their parts lol. This is a kick ass video you are a good machinist. Keep the videos coming!!!
I've used helicoils in the past on antique Outboards and had a 50/50 results with them. Acouple years ago my motorcycle blew out a spark plug because of previous owner cross-threaded plug and had it in cockeyed. I had a solid Time-Sert inserted and it works great. Solid thread repairs are the only way to go. Very nicely done
@@Ohiocountryboy-se2cn Not that I disagree, the threading inserts with locking are great. But that anything the military uses should be particularly good or durable, or over-specified, I think is a rumor. What is particularly pronounced in the military is the waste of money, because it can be proven that the world's biggest fools are employed in purchasing-department there. Please take this as a joke, with some relation to reality:)
Standard M6 have 1mm.pitch, so you use only M6 in describing it. If it is fine-threaded M6 you use M6x0,75 or MF6x0,75. For you that doesn't know, the number after "x" describes the pitch on threads. To find the correct dimension for drill-bits, just subtract pitch from dimension on threads (ex. M12x1,5 pitch uses 10,5mm drillbit.)
Might be true for metric countries. Still. I does not matter at all. He just bothered to give a bit more information for people not firm in metric bolt sizes.
But what an excellent job, the truth is very verbose and professional, a pleasure to see how a repair is carried out in this way. I recently discovered your videos and I have chosen to follow them as they are very interesting from a technical point of view. On the other hand I cannot believe that there are people who lower their thumbs in a job like this ... it seems to me that they are envious of your work and profession ... I would like to see them doing that task. Greetings from Santa Fe, Argentina
That' brilliant engineering. I like the techniques you used to square and center. Using manufactured centerlines and reference points. And the explaining is top notch for the non engineers but technically minded like myself. If I spend 12 months with you, I'd have the knowledge to do my own repairs. You've got another sub from Australia.
The sad thing about a repair like this is the that the end customer will never appreciate the... 1. Labor 2.Consumables. 3.Equipment required to accurately undertake this process. They get a bill for the work, they look at the hole and see i shinny thread and cant understand the cost. Its really hard to find machinists that will do this one off type of work nowadays as they don't want to deal with the brain damage when an invoice is presented for the work, even though it probably saved the owner $800 to $1000 for a new cylinder head.
I've never been one to complain about the cost of good machine work. Of course, now that I finally have my own lathe and mill I watch these videos to learn how to use them to their full potential.
always relaxing and enjoy watching when someone knows there profession well.the confidence you show and calmness you have is a treat to see. thank you very much.
Greetings from good old England. A nice neat repair Adam. I do like the Abom sized thread repair insert, or should I say the bigger than the lesser Abom sized insert! You are looking good mate, the weight loss is impressive. Keep up the good work.
Nice repair Adam, it didn't look like that hole was going to clean up with the 10mm, but it sure went together nicely. As a millwright I never had any luck with that type of insert, problem being was we had to do it with hand tools and no access to machine tools, and you have to be spot on to make them assemble properly, as you showed. Cheers and thanks!
I own an automotive repair shop and for years this is a common problem luckily I have a machining background I’ve done a lot of threaded insert repairs the problem I’ve run into is I need quick turnaround I’ve made my own threaded inserts from bolts right out of the bin I cut the head off through them in the lathe drill tap and then cut a groove for a flathead screw them in die grind the excess off and shave flush center punch around it do a finale cleanup it’s how I was shown by the old timer I learned a lot from others
Been a maintenance machinist for 13 years. Every time one of the bonehead millwrights bring me something like this they get my speech to just bring it to me first before they screw it up worst. Done this so many times Iv'e lost track. Don't you just love that Blake Coax indicator? I think that is the best tool I've ever gotten that saves a lot of set up time. Looked great Adam.
Why give customer a hard time. He already knows he screwed up. So many want to take it out on the weak.
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I absolutely love key locking inserts. Heli-coils are completely outclassed by inserts. Other than wierd space issues (which are quite rare) I have no idea why anyone still uses them.
Hi Abom67, I'm not just fascinated by the outstanding care and attention to detail you put in to your work. I really like your manner and the way you talk us through the project. Please keep the videos coming. Greetings from Scotland ☺
Whoever drilled that first hole seems like the type to use an impact gun to tighten the drain plug. I hope the customer can appreciate the professionalism of the work you just performed.
good stuff, Adam. if you were pondering doing more of this type of work I'd be a vote to see more. This slides into "everyday" stuff that I personally benifit from.
I keeping watching your videos because of the unique techniques you share. Using taps to locate centers is a huge time saver. I would have wasted time making threaded M6 dowels. Thanks for the tip.
When modding VW engines with much bigger jugs and higher compression the M8 bolts that screw into the aluminum split cases tend to pull out. So they make inserts that are M20 coarse thread OD with M8 ID. Huge wall inserts. That gives good bite into the aluminum with the SS insert that has the strength to hold the higher stress on the head bolts.
I always say it's good to learn something new every day and today I have. Rethreading a hole using an insert was something I was told about but again never shown. Many thanks for the demonstration video and the great photography.
Solid repair with the least amount of variables to deal with given the truing that would've had to be done on the other surfaces if you tried anything else. Quality thread inserts compared to the average hardware store "it's close enough's". My observation is that it looks like an '09+ GSX-R 1000 head (I am probably wrong), and when most of them get turfed they destroy the side cases, forks, wheels, et cetera. The head is usually the cheapest part to find in the $200-300 range because that is protected the most, so there are a good number of them out there. That shop really has a lot of respect for you and I don't blame them. I wish I had neighbors like you instead of the know it all EBT crowd.
The time for setup +the cost for tooling +the cost parts+your experience and knowledge = what ever you charge is worth every dollar. Great jobe !!! From TN
This is pure entertainment. I'm a welder by trade And am am fortunate enough to have learned some basic machining at a machine shop I worked at. So I can follow what Abom79 is doing. I don't recognize the cylinder head manufacturer 'cause I'm a two stroke guy.
That drill hole looked like someone's Monday morning hangover. Excellent instructions given while repairing it. I've worked in the IT industry for about 25 years, and there are few things I find more annoying than when a simple problem or issue results in an *_all-hands-on-deck_* calamity at the hands of the inept, inexperienced, or half-assed, trying to resolve it. *_TRUST !!_*
I liked the level of explanation on this video. This type of video provides a lot of instruction that can carry over to us home machining guys with simple gear. Keep up the quality!
Great job as always! I just wonder if they are going to rebuild the head completely? It might be quite hard to get the shavings out of the valve pockets without taking the springs out. Maybe you could have covered the head with some masking tape and paper. Thanks for the video!
The best part of this is when he starts to drill the hole whats left of the bolt isnt 100% center in the hole but at the end it is. Abom79 is more percise than than oem. Wow
I finally figured out why I enjoy your videos so much... You make math enjoyable! Ive hated math my entire life but I really enjoy following along while you do it. That coupled with your easy going personality as well as the machining.
Hello Adam, even though I have done hundreds of key locking inserts in the tool and die shop I work in I liked watching you do it. We have over a dozen various sizes. Besides repairs like you did some of our aluminum molds need them to give steel threads, so taking them in and out doesn't wear the aluminum threads out. Looked like at least an hour work, But your years of experience has to be considered.
It is so nice to see this done professionally. I can attest to how easy it is to fall off center when trying to drill a broken bolt out with hand tools. Often the bolt or tap is harder than the base metal, so when you drift off center the drill walks to the side, especially in aluminum. Better to drill a small pilot hole and gradually work up, but even so it is tricky. I've had more success by welding on a nut.
Welding a nut is a great trick. I just did this to a co-workers brake caliper. He was going to cut the bolt flush and try drilling it out. I told him to cut it proud, about 1/4", and weld a bolt to it. The bolt gives you a fresh hex head, to grab, and the weld's heat helps break the bolt free. It came out on the first try, only took about 5min, and saved the headache of what he was attempting.
spelunkerd. Drilling the broken bolt is the easy part. Trying to mark the centre is the hard part. If you can get a punch in there and fight with the uneven break and mark centre, the rest is pretty easy. Just have to make sure you drill straight which is always tricky.
Great job, wouldn’t be scared at all to use it. When I saw it was exhaust cam journal cap... I thought maybe shop should tell customer this is a replacement issue but, I’m impressed with repair; a little cringey watching chips landing all over valve retainers though, taping off top of head leaving just hole exposed is not a bad idea. .. now on to your next video
Just one more thing about any steal thread insert installation in aluminum. If the bolted joint is going to be exposed to the weather or moisture, the two different metals will setup galvanic corrosion. So it is best to "wet" install the insert with a good primer or sealant. This particular application will probably be ok since it is in a "dry" and oily environment. But if there is any chance of condensation forming in there, you could have issues over time. I realize in automotive applications it is probably not going to be around long enough to matter. But in the case of expensive aircraft parts, it is too big and expensive a deal to ignore. Especially considering how cheap primer or sealant is.
Sky train doo...fus I can't really tell if you are joking or just kind of an arrogant a-hole know nothing. This application will be under a valve cover and bathed in oil. So corrosion won't be a problem. Talking about your big expensive plane parts that are going to be around well into the next millennium has nothing to do with anything. Certainly not germane to anything happening here. Are we supposed to be impressed? Or just laughing at the nit wit that you show yourself to be?
@@jonka1 No, it's about not corroding an expensive aluminum head with a steal insert when a cheap dab of paint will prevent that. I've made the mistake.
@@michaeldose2041 I thought of that. You are probably right. But there is also a lot of opportunity for condensation. And water wicks better than viscus oil. So it just might be a problem. On the other hand, primer is cheap, it works, and you never have to worry then. I would probably wet install. I didn't do that with a Heli-Coil on a Corvair head and in the long run ended up with corrosion. The head sat on a self in a garage for years. When I got to it, thinking I had something worth some money, it was no good anymore. Just think what that head would be worth now; all for the want of a 5 cent dap of primer.
@@jonWilk8156 A little touchy there jonny. I agree this is a great fix on what is likely a rare and expensive cylinder head. Corrosion WON'T be a problem and has nothing to do with airplane parts or whatever. I am confident this fix will be permanent, stronger than the original and fine the way it is. So why don't you take your attitude and put it where the sun don't shine? STFU? Really? What are you one of those antifa soy boys?
Beautiful work! I am not a machinist, but I love to watch your videos. The care and precision you utilize in your work is what makes me come back and watch the projects. What is there that you can't do?
Id say maybe things on the level of precision required for some aerospace applications. Not because he doesn't have the skill, just the precision required int he machines themselves is that much tighter.
36 people disliked this? What the hell people--what more do you want in a video? Abom, you're incredible. The lunacy of some TH-cam viewers notwithstanding, anyone who has done anything even remotely similar to this will appreciate how good of a job you do on this stuff.
Likewise anyone who has been bailed out by someone like Adam will appreciate this as well.
I was gonna say the same thing the audacity of some folks.
nice work Adam!
Jail tats
He went to prison in 1972 for a Video he didn't produce! He promptly escaped but not before getting that tat
@@Elektronaut I see you are well-versed with his dark past as a fugitive TH-cam undergrounder, 😁
Great to see ya Tony! 👍🏻
I always without complaining wondered why the local machine shop charged me so much each time I took an engine head off my dirt track car or off my 8N Ford tractor to have the head machined, valves reseated or cylinders honed, or crank or cam balanced or "YES", to have a broken head bolt removed, Now many years later, I can appreciate how much technical knowledge, precise machine work, and costly machine tools goes into machining and/or repairing of engines and their parts. Thank you for an exceptionally well explained, work detailed, and informative video.
Nicely done. I can see the owner bragging to his friends "I screwed it up so bad only Abom79 could fix it!"
🤣🤣🤣🤣
...THAT'S NOTHING TO BE PROUD OF-(?)
You love what you do, you take time to do it right. Too many younger people today take no pride in their work, they're only there for a paycheck. I worked in a machine shop environment for 35 years. First as a machinist, then as the shop supervisor, and I wish I had had just a few that were as conscientious as you. Keep up the good work Adam, really enjoy your videos.
Straight forward and clear. No corny stuff. Gained an appreciation of a new aspect of machining.
Your problem solving skills and logic fixing a real mess are very impressive!
Thank you for your detailed, real world problem solving videos. You are an incredible machinist, problem solver, teacher and a genuinely likable guy.
After reading your compliment I can't help but Wonder. Is video is very informing and he sounds like a most patient person. I just can't imagine what your bill is to have this done on something I got a boat motor that needs four broken off bolt removed, and maybe packed out to the same size or larger. Eminem four boys I sure as hell can't afford to have somebody do it or buy any tools that he uses. I've bored out Maddie engine blocks and heads easy out the screws were sometimes just tap them anyway and always had the motors work. I used less than thirty bucks worth of tools on your job and pennies i n parts.
Showing how you found the center of the botched hole was brilliant!
Great job. Just amazed how deep they hand drilled after knowing they missed the center.
I was shouting "you've forgot the studlock"! Never seen one of those before.
You learn something new every day.
Fantastic video..Again.
People should consult a professional like yourself, Adam, before attempting Jack Leg repairs like the motorcycle owner made. It costs them much more in the long run. But, precision repairs buts bread an butter on your table. I was completely impressed, as usual, with your outstanding, concise, precision repair. Thanks for these videos. I am not a machinist, but, an admirer of your work. John
I've done lots of Heli-coil type thread repairs over the years, and had to fix a few others' off-center drill jobs, but this one was nasty! Nicely done, as usual.
I really hope the bike owner takes a look at this video - jus to see how much attention to detail you give to your work as well as why you do what you do. Brilliant!
Not to mention so they realize that their little bit of amateur repair work came within a gnat's hair of costing them a great deal more than this already is going to. If they'd taken it to the mechanic as soon as they broke that bolt, it would have probably been pretty quick fix with an easy out.
The guy that worked on this worked on my XR500 (Magnesium head)
Stripped out the head bolts, so they put heli-coils in, and stripped those out too (slow learners?)
Me being out in the sticks, made my own time-serts.. It was a 10mm head bolt, I drilled and tapped for 1/2NF, found an old bolt, drilled and tapped that for 10mm, cut it to length, some red locktite and installed it.. been doing well for years now..
Unfortunately I didn't catch all the 6mm rocker cover bolts that were stripped out so it'll be coming apart again this winter to fix those.
Great vid!
Great job!!! As an engine builder a little trick to keep chips from the valve springs or and place you would not want chip to contaminate I use wheel bearing grease over the parts to protect and the chips stay suspended on top of grease. The hair on my neck would stand up when I see them chips fall in the valve spring pocket. Love the videos.
Its always good to watch a professional at work, very nice job!
Sir, your ability to repair a very expensive part like this so that it is still usable proves that all of the cynics and trolls out there (that don't make their own videos) do not know what they are talking about. THANK YOU from those of us that actually want to learn new things!!!
Who drills a hole that off centre and then just carries on like it's fine? Those threaded inserts are also the best thing i have seen today
Those inserts work great. They don't turn or slip in the holes once set. I only draw back with them is when get screwed up themselves. You have to drill them out and they are harder to get out because of the pins.
@@keithnoneya I have used them since i saw this, they're fantastic
Love your videos where you have to repair someone else's mistakes. Don't these people know this is how you make the big bucks? A very talented man you are!!!
Some people are calling you a professional - I would call you a VIRTUOSO ! Fantastic Job !
It is such a joy to see a true professional at work.
As a mechanic, drilling out broken studs and bolts while the component is still attached to the vehicle can become a real chore, especially on the exhaust where bolts and studs have heat hardened and are rusted and the housing is cast. I often go straight for a Dremel or a die grinder with a small tungsten ball grinding burr right from the get go and grind from the centre out until I touch threads and then clean out the thread hole, it often seems like the time consuming method but there is a risk sometimes using heat or welding near cast iron as the material can harden and end up breaking the teeth off your tap when you try to clean up the thread. The most preferred method is to get the component off and send to a machinist though. 👍
One of life's delicious pleasures for me, is to watch a master of his craft doing his professional best.
Adam never ever fails to keep my eyes glued to his work as he does it.
I can't imagine that this man ever thinks to himself, "Oh sod it, that'll do".
As many seem to do these days.
Whenever I hear him say something like "Well, it's within half a thou'.. I always reckon the actual tolerance is probably more like ten to twenty thou', lol.
Stay safe sir and keep these videos coming.
.
Awesome video. Only remark i have of working with heads that have installed parts is try to tape every hole possible shut to keep chips out. Makes life easier to clean.
I know it requires much forethought, but you make everything look easy and do it in a very logical way. Thanks for doing these!
Adam, very well done video, excellent repair for a common problem. Everyone tries to drill a broken steel bolt out of an aluminum base. It never works. I can see the frustration in the depth of the offset hole, it was a bad day for that guy. Your video shows the parts and process very clearly, I like how you "found" the true location for the original hole. Nice.
Such precision and care with every job. Great presenter too. Good job Adam.
I like how you measured those taps instead of automatically assuming they sent you the right ones
I actually think he measured the taps so that when he put that flat bar up against them he could figure in any differences in their thickness if it was necessary. Remember he used those to indicate the entire head
That was to make sure the shoulders were both the same diameter. That let Adam be sure he could square up on the Parallel he butted up against those taps. You'd 'assume' they were the same diameter, and I suspect most people would have gone right ahead and indicated without checking. There was only about 120mm between the hole centers he was using, so a few thou difference in those diameters could have been significant. I can't put my hand on my heart, and swear that I would have thought to check those shoulder diameters. :-(
As the guys here mentioned, I measured the tap shanks to assure they were the same diameter because I was using them for a fixed point of reference to measure. 👍🏻
Lovely to watch the care, consideration, and precision that you put into the job.
For those wondering, that hole is for the camshaft retaining cap. It's not gonna cause any issue with the head mating to the block. Additionally, I'd bet it'll be like stronger than the original aluminum threads. So torque spec won't be an issue either.
I'm amazed how deep the dude continued to drill, though! Wow!
murkinstock especially if it's a Yamaha for some reason their aluminum is very weak, I can't tell you how many YFZ 450 is I worked on and even when you torque the Cam Caps to spec they still strip out it's a common issue. That very reason I hate working on Yama junk.
Adam is a brilliant man and a fine teacher. A legacy who builds from the shoulders of his father and grandfather.
Machining at its finest- joy to watch
it is the value of a manual machine shop with an experienced machinist in the repair industry.
It's a pleasure to watch someone who actually use a tap correctly :-).
It's irritating seeing someone using a tap in a hand drill.
And then when you tell them that's not how taps should be used, they will argue with you.
@@shawbros Just so you know, there are traps made to be used in hand drills. DeWalt makes them. Also, using traps in a hand drill can be done perfectly fine. It all depends on the application. If you've got 100 holes to tap on ¼ steel, run them in with a drill. I've taped hunters of holes with a hand drill (where concentricity didn't matter) and never had an issue. You obviously wouldn't want to do it on a motor head, but there certainly are places where it's perfectly fine.
Really appreciate the passion and the patience in doing what you do. Very meticulous in all your works. Awesome to watch.
Very nice work Adam. Successfully hand drilling a broken bolts is like winning the lottery. Thumbs up
Yep, not very easy.
A lot can be learned watching repairs like this. Thank you.
its amazing how easy it is to fix up such huge mess when you got $$$$'s worth of tools and machinery at hand. im super jealous of that workshop.
I am amazed at the talent you have demonstrated in this repair. It really was a beautiful thing to watch.
Ohh, that makes me want to go to the shop. Machine shop and motorcycle parts can't be beat. Nice job and really like the choice if inserts. Appreciated !
Fantastic job, folks that do this type of repair work are magicians.
Nice work again! You’re making shelter at home more bearable! Thx!
Could not be done in a more professional manner.
It was a pleasure to watch. The editing and explanation are simple, short and to the point.
ive never even thought to use the drill press as a center for the tap handle! brilliant!
Can do the same using a lathe as well. Makes a perfect steady for hand tapping.
I love your channel. I am not a machinist but I love people that can explain what they are doing in a language that everyone understands. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome job on drilling out the old bolt that was broken inside the head, I always loved it when I got jobs after someone ruined it so bad that they called me as a last chance to save their parts lol.
This is a kick ass video you are a good machinist. Keep the videos coming!!!
I've used helicoils in the past on antique Outboards and had a 50/50 results with them. Acouple years ago my motorcycle blew out a spark plug because of previous owner cross-threaded plug and had it in cockeyed. I had a solid Time-Sert inserted and it works great. Solid thread repairs are the only way to go. Very nicely done
Key locking thread inserts, glad I saw these from you they look like they do a far better job than heli-coils.
They do. I worked at a company that made parts for the military. We used the inserts.
@@Ohiocountryboy-se2cn Not that I disagree, the threading inserts with locking are great. But that anything the military uses should be particularly good or durable, or over-specified, I think is a rumor. What is particularly pronounced in the military is the waste of money, because it can be proven that the world's biggest fools are employed in purchasing-department there. Please take this as a joke, with some relation to reality:)
Man this repair was awesome... I can feel the pain of the customer when he saw he screwed up the hole and you gave it some new life
As a motorcycle owner God Bless. When people ask why robots or automation won't take over I think of you!!
Your repair videos are my favorites! I really enjoy following along as you demonstrate your problem-solving skills.
Great setup and repair.
It would have been a good idea to mask off the rest of the head because a lot of swarf fell in to those valve springs!
Adam, the care and attention to detail you always exhibit in your vids is wonderful. 100% professional. Thank you sir!
Standard M6 have 1mm.pitch, so you use only M6 in describing it. If it is fine-threaded M6 you use M6x0,75 or MF6x0,75. For you that doesn't know, the number after "x" describes the pitch on threads.
To find the correct dimension for drill-bits, just subtract pitch from dimension on threads (ex. M12x1,5 pitch uses 10,5mm drillbit.)
Might be true for metric countries.
Still. I does not matter at all. He just bothered to give a bit more information for people not firm in metric bolt sizes.
Beautiful job. A great mind and the cleanest hands I have ever seen for a machinist.
But what an excellent job, the truth is very verbose and professional, a pleasure to see how a repair is carried out in this way. I recently discovered your videos and I have chosen to follow them as they are very interesting from a technical point of view. On the other hand I cannot believe that there are people who lower their thumbs in a job like this ... it seems to me that they are envious of your work and profession ... I would like to see them doing that task.
Greetings from Santa Fe, Argentina
That' brilliant engineering. I like the techniques you used to square and center. Using manufactured centerlines and reference points.
And the explaining is top notch for the non engineers but technically minded like myself. If I spend 12 months with you, I'd have the knowledge to do my own repairs. You've got another sub from Australia.
Whoever tried to drill that out should have let his guide dog do the job.
The sad thing about a repair like this is the that the end customer will never appreciate the... 1. Labor 2.Consumables. 3.Equipment required to accurately undertake this process. They get a bill for the work, they look at the hole and see i shinny thread and cant understand the cost. Its really hard to find machinists that will do this one off type of work nowadays as they don't want to deal with the brain damage when an invoice is presented for the work, even though it probably saved the owner $800 to $1000 for a new cylinder head.
darley04 says you I do this all the time fixing people's boo-boos no problem this is an easy fix
@@plymouth-hl20ton37 youre a value to your region.
erik61801 I'm in Akron, Ohio area what part of the world are you from just curious thank you
I've never been one to complain about the cost of good machine work. Of course, now that I finally have my own lathe and mill I watch these videos to learn how to use them to their full potential.
@@plymouth-hl20ton37 central illinois. finding a decent machinist is like finding a warlock.
I always learn something here Abom. I never knew about a heavy walled insert. Thanks for all the videos.
always relaxing and enjoy watching when someone knows there profession well.the confidence you show and calmness you have is a treat to see. thank you very much.
Greetings from good old England. A nice neat repair Adam. I do like the Abom sized thread repair insert, or should I say the bigger than the lesser Abom sized insert! You are looking good mate, the weight loss is impressive. Keep up the good work.
Nice repair Adam, it didn't look like that hole was going to clean up with the 10mm, but it sure went together nicely. As a millwright I never had any luck with that type of insert, problem being was we had to do it with hand tools and no access to machine tools, and you have to be spot on to make them assemble properly, as you showed. Cheers and thanks!
I own an automotive repair shop and for years this is a common problem luckily I have a machining background I’ve done a lot of threaded insert repairs the problem I’ve run into is I need quick turnaround I’ve made my own threaded inserts from bolts right out of the bin I cut the head off through them in the lathe drill tap and then cut a groove for a flathead screw them in die grind the excess off and shave flush center punch around it do a finale cleanup it’s how I was shown by the old timer I learned a lot from others
Been a maintenance machinist for 13 years. Every time one of the bonehead millwrights bring me something like this they get my speech to just bring it to me first before they screw it up worst. Done this so many times Iv'e lost track. Don't you just love that Blake Coax indicator? I think that is the best tool I've ever gotten that saves a lot of set up time. Looked great Adam.
Why give customer a hard time. He already knows he screwed up. So many want to take it out on the weak.
I absolutely love key locking inserts. Heli-coils are completely outclassed by inserts. Other than wierd space issues (which are quite rare) I have no idea why anyone still uses them.
Never knew they were available myself, that is why I love watching him work he explains in detail and is not afraid to share his knowledge either.
Hi Abom67, I'm not just fascinated by the outstanding care and attention to detail you put in to your work. I really like your manner and the way you talk us through the project. Please keep the videos coming. Greetings from Scotland ☺
Whoever drilled that first hole seems like the type to use an impact gun to tighten the drain plug. I hope the customer can appreciate the professionalism of the work you just performed.
Yes, I was wondering what was used to dril out the bolt. A hand dril? I wouldn’t want that shop to touch my bike.
@@Conservator. The owner did this, then brought it to the MC shop, they brought it here.
coast2coast00
Ok Tx
good stuff, Adam. if you were pondering doing more of this type of work I'd be a vote to see more. This slides into "everyday" stuff that I personally benifit from.
Good job. Tap centering tool guide is a great tool for keeping tap tool straight as you turn it.
I keeping watching your videos because of the unique techniques you share. Using taps to locate centers is a huge time saver. I would have wasted time making threaded M6 dowels. Thanks for the tip.
When modding VW engines with much bigger jugs and higher compression the M8 bolts that screw into the aluminum split cases tend to pull out. So they make inserts that are M20 coarse thread OD with M8 ID. Huge wall inserts. That gives good bite into the aluminum with the SS insert that has the strength to hold the higher stress on the head bolts.
I always say it's good to learn something new every day and today I have.
Rethreading a hole using an insert was something I was told about but again never shown.
Many thanks for the demonstration video and the great photography.
I love seeing professionals do what they do best! :) I learned a lot from this
Countless times I have had this same job on heads for motorcycles .. I do the exact same thing man .. NAILED IT .. ENJOYED ADAM !!
Solid repair with the least amount of variables to deal with given the truing that would've had to be done on the other surfaces if you tried anything else. Quality thread inserts compared to the average hardware store "it's close enough's". My observation is that it looks like an '09+ GSX-R 1000 head (I am probably wrong), and when most of them get turfed they destroy the side cases, forks, wheels, et cetera. The head is usually the cheapest part to find in the $200-300 range because that is protected the most, so there are a good number of them out there. That shop really has a lot of respect for you and I don't blame them. I wish I had neighbors like you instead of the know it all EBT crowd.
The time for setup +the cost for tooling +the cost parts+your experience and knowledge = what ever you charge is worth every dollar. Great jobe !!! From TN
This is pure entertainment. I'm a welder by trade And am am fortunate enough to have learned some basic machining at a machine shop I worked at. So I can follow what Abom79 is doing. I don't recognize the cylinder head manufacturer 'cause I'm a two stroke guy.
Probably a BMW if they can afford ABom !!!
That drill hole looked like someone's Monday morning hangover. Excellent instructions given while repairing it. I've worked in the IT industry for about 25 years, and there are few things I find more annoying than when a simple problem or issue results in an *_all-hands-on-deck_* calamity at the hands of the inept, inexperienced, or half-assed, trying to resolve it.
*_TRUST !!_*
That off-center hole gave me the chills... isch! 😱
I liked the level of explanation on this video. This type of video provides a lot of instruction that can carry over to us home machining guys with simple gear. Keep up the quality!
Great job as always! I just wonder if they are going to rebuild the head completely? It might be quite hard to get the shavings out of the valve pockets without taking the springs out. Maybe you could have covered the head with some masking tape and paper. Thanks for the video!
Adam, top rescue! You work with the finesse of a surgeon, except, they are precise whereas you are spot on!
The best part of this is when he starts to drill the hole whats left of the bolt isnt 100% center in the hole but at the end it is. Abom79 is more percise than than oem. Wow
GREAT JOB, A pleasure to watch you do your magic.
Nice repair job, I've never seen those keyed inserts before!
I finally figured out why I enjoy your videos so much... You make math enjoyable! Ive hated math my entire life but I really enjoy following along while you do it. That coupled with your easy going personality as well as the machining.
You are a lucky guy, to have so many experts to tell you how to do it correctly ;o)
Hello Adam, even though I have done hundreds of key locking inserts in the tool and die shop I work in I liked watching you do it. We have over a dozen various sizes. Besides repairs like you did some of our aluminum molds need them to give steel threads, so taking them in and out doesn't wear the aluminum threads out. Looked like at least an hour work, But your years of experience has to be considered.
NASA Level quality....Hope that's a compliment....
You make this into an art, Adam. Your work ethic is inspiring.
It is so nice to see this done professionally. I can attest to how easy it is to fall off center when trying to drill a broken bolt out with hand tools. Often the bolt or tap is harder than the base metal, so when you drift off center the drill walks to the side, especially in aluminum. Better to drill a small pilot hole and gradually work up, but even so it is tricky. I've had more success by welding on a nut.
Welding a nut is a great trick. I just did this to a co-workers brake caliper. He was going to cut the bolt flush and try drilling it out. I told him to cut it proud, about 1/4", and weld a bolt to it. The bolt gives you a fresh hex head, to grab, and the weld's heat helps break the bolt free. It came out on the first try, only took about 5min, and saved the headache of what he was attempting.
spelunkerd. Drilling the broken bolt is the easy part. Trying to mark the centre is the hard part. If you can get a punch in there and fight with the uneven break and mark centre, the rest is pretty easy. Just have to make sure you drill straight which is always tricky.
You saved the guy that owns this head the price of a new head, great job Tom you the man ;-)
Great job, wouldn’t be scared at all to use it. When I saw it was exhaust cam journal cap... I thought maybe shop should tell customer this is a replacement issue but, I’m impressed with repair; a little cringey watching chips landing all over valve retainers though, taping off top of head leaving just hole exposed is not a bad idea. .. now on to your next video
Watching craftsmen fix the damage of hacks is so rewarding. If we only had more craftsmen and fewer hacks in the world. 👍🏼
Sheldon Robertson not at all. If not for the hacks, I wouldn’t have had the ability to have watched this video.
Just one more thing about any steal thread insert installation in aluminum. If the bolted joint is going to be exposed to the weather or moisture, the two different metals will setup galvanic corrosion. So it is best to "wet" install the insert with a good primer or sealant. This particular application will probably be ok since it is in a "dry" and oily environment. But if there is any chance of condensation forming in there, you could have issues over time. I realize in automotive applications it is probably not going to be around long enough to matter. But in the case of expensive aircraft parts, it is too big and expensive a deal to ignore. Especially considering how cheap primer or sealant is.
Sky train doo...fus I can't really tell if you are joking or just kind of an arrogant a-hole know nothing. This application will be under a valve cover and bathed in oil. So corrosion won't be a problem. Talking about your big expensive plane parts that are going to be around well into the next millennium has nothing to do with anything. Certainly not germane to anything happening here. Are we supposed to be impressed? Or just laughing at the nit wit that you show yourself to be?
This isn't about Adam's job here, this is all about you.
@@jonka1 No, it's about not corroding an expensive aluminum head with a steal insert when a cheap dab of paint will prevent that. I've made the mistake.
@@michaeldose2041 I thought of that. You are probably right. But there is also a lot of opportunity for condensation. And water wicks better than viscus oil. So it just might be a problem. On the other hand, primer is cheap, it works, and you never have to worry then. I would probably wet install. I didn't do that with a Heli-Coil on a Corvair head and in the long run ended up with corrosion. The head sat on a self in a garage for years. When I got to it, thinking I had something worth some money, it was no good anymore. Just think what that head would be worth now; all for the want of a 5 cent dap of primer.
@@jonWilk8156 A little touchy there jonny. I agree this is a great fix on what is likely a rare and expensive cylinder head. Corrosion WON'T be a problem and has nothing to do with airplane parts or whatever. I am confident this fix will be permanent, stronger than the original and fine the way it is. So why don't you take your attitude and put it where the sun don't shine? STFU? Really? What are you one of those antifa soy boys?
Love those threaded inserts, they work great! Remember using those all the time on aluminum inserts when I designed tooling for a carbon fiber shop.
Brilliant video them inserts look way better than Heli coil inserts
Beautiful work! I am not a machinist, but I love to watch your videos. The care and precision you utilize in your work is what makes me come back and watch the projects. What is there that you can't do?
Id say maybe things on the level of precision required for some aerospace applications. Not because he doesn't have the skill, just the precision required int he machines themselves is that much tighter.