Absolutely enjoying these rebuild videos with weld buildup, spray weld buildup, using a turning table for clean weld buildup. Being able to see each setup that you do is pretty awesome. I just bought some new tooling so I can do consistent block manufacturing. Bought a new clamp and some fixture plates. I can't wait to use them. Thanks for all the great content.
When I did my training all those years ago, we had machines that were 'inch' which came from England or the USA. Then we had Japanese and European stuff that was metric, so I understand both. BUT (never start a sentence with but!) metric is so easy and just as accurate.
@@Wolfy_80 Anyone who says either metric or imperial systems are more accurate is a fool who doesn’t understand accuracy. Accuracy doesn’t care which system you use.
good repair, i do a lot of weld build up repairs at work on big Liebherr 996 hydraulic pistons (internal rod to piston seals), good practice to pre-machine the area to be repaired under the finished size 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm per side so your under the fusion zone and clean any embedded dirt and grime off the surface so it doesn't become a inclusion or bubble in the weld. that would help a lot with the surface finish. also for the new shop, digital micrometers are really nice and can switch between inch and metric. the Insize brand are fairly good but quantum mics from Mitutoyo are stunning. you get what you pay for though.
I use a bore welder and the welding machine settings are quite different to allow upside down welding, a major benefit is reduced heat. Low volts. Drip transfer welding. Needs to be laid over a machined surface.
11:12 I really like my 3M Adflo respirator with Speedglas helmet to prevent my glasses from fogging up. It also keeps me from inhaling all sorts of nasty things, as I seem to spend more time grinding than welding. The joys of being a rookie, I guess.
@@nils1953 dose not need to be a nice new digital mitutoyo, even tho those are amazing and can also be set to imperial ore metric but when working on stuff in metric its best to measure in metric as well. I am from the metric world anyways :)
Pardon my ignorance, Ladies and Gents: Would machining the welded build up be possible/advisable using a HSS tool? (Or would the welded build-up pose issues with the cutting tool) Cheers!
Hi From Australia I will be interested to see what kind of material is used to spray weld the small Torrington type needle roller inner bearing surface, if it is the shaft itself it needs to be Rockwell 55-60 C scale. I did not know you could get that hardness with spray welding?
@@paulcopeland9035 Torrington needle bearings use the shaft to run on, no inner race. Usually used on the inner of clutches therefore only turn when the clutch is disengaged.
Eutectic make a hard facing spray that you can not turn in a lathe , you have to grind it . 21022 is fine as long as the bearing has an inner race , too soft to run rollers directly on though .
@@johnsawyer2516 This assumes that the application is an automotive type clutch. In this case I don't know. If it is driven continuously except when the clutch is disengaged the reverse would be true. In any event the shaft really does need to be hard. Spray welding is a low temperature application of metal powders together with a binder. I would really like to know the hardness achievable with this process. There must be an alternative, if there is enough shaft material. Torrington also make thin hardened inner sleeves to fit on a shaft, The shaft could be turned down and a hardened sleeve fitted. Job done.
@@johnmcnamara3719 there's plenty of information, both on his videos and on Google, about how hard you can get the spray to turn out. Hint: more than hard enough.
The 10 / 20 / 30 are basically the toughness of the insert. The higher the number, the tougher the insert. The lower the number, the harder the insert.
If, in some alternate reality there was a smarter version of yourself, and you owned your own business, you'd be out of work real quick. A guy buying a old large for hobby work isn't going to want to pay to have a new shaft machined. Either way, there's absolutely no reason for that.
@@stargazer7644 ...No need. The bearing race does the work. BTW, if you want to see how spray welding is used in heavy industry and high tech go to "Flame Spray". This is a business that has been operating world wide for over 50 years that I know of. They do every type of spray welding and coating, including extreme pressure and high temperature applications. What Adam does is a fine process and very useful in the machining world, however the "Flame Spray" process goes well beyond the "everyday" needs.
*The rich sees an economic crisis as a garage sale also the rich stays rich by investing and diversifying their portfolio with stocks, Crypto currency and Forex trading which is the wisest thing every individual needs to do and it's real profiting.*
@LeeAnne Deardorff Exactly, which is why I will always recommend Expert Dave Jevans to all Newbie /greenhorn interested in making bigger profits on crypto. He is reliable and profitable💯.
I was wondering if you were to have turned the shaft down some before welding it up, if that would have given you a thicker final finish. Since the new weld is merely a few thousands, is that okay and work good... IDK
That's true but unlike a spray weld I don't think a mig weld is ever going to peel off since you have much more penetration and especially fusion because the base metal his heated and mixed a lot more. So while he didn't remove anything, because a weld bead is so much more energy dense, I think it should be perfectly fine as is.
Mig bites in enough that it ain't coming off.. the advantage of turning it down first is that all the metal is the same hardness so tool pressure remains the same and it eliminates thicker spots where the material is harder.. it didn't look like it was a problem with this repair but it's a problem I've run into before
@11:12 Adam, if you're having issues with your safety glasses fogging up, clean the lenses with some regular ole Shaving Cream/Foam. Just rub it all over the lenses until they're coated, then wipe it all off with a Dry cloth and the lenses won't fog up on you. It works great, my Grandfather showed me this trick like 30 years ago and I've using it on all my glasses, bathroom mirrors and the interior of my car windows ever since. Alternatively you can also use Liquid Dish Soap without water and it will do the same thing, it's just a little more fiddly to get a streak free finish. Give it a try I guarantee you won't be disappointed! 👍👍
Outstanding work, as always, your weld build up was fantastic 👍👍👍 I’m a marine engineer and had to turn and machine few parts love to watch theses projects. Amazing work Adam
Those Walter Tigertec are pretty good inserts. I also like Iscar and Sandvik for turning as well. For basic roughing or medium turning, Mitsubishi and Sumitomo are very cost effective options for a manual machine too. Just passing it along 😊
ULINE REHAWK S-14171C we did a test at our company of over 100 different safety glasses and these allow enough airflow to not fog when you are bending over working, out of 100 guys close to 80 picked these great work my dude
I did my PhD work and first years of graduate research at the Max-Planck Institute for Biological Cybernetics in Tübingen. I lived right next to the Walter-Tools work and had a friend who was an engineer in the turning-tools department. Their tooling is famous world-wide. Glad to see you using their carbide inserts.
@@insaneindamembrane7961 lol! I have a masters in chemistry and a PhD in rocket science and everytime I came home from my work at NASA I went past the restrooms, so could you tell me where yours are?
Things that have held true over time. How could you know if someone is vegan?....they will tell you. How could you know if someone uses the metric system?....they will tell you.
Another high quality Abom79 repair 👍😊 I for one absolutely love your channel and videos Adam 👍👍and To all the “ armchair know it all machinists” I pose a question to you , did you see any “ bluing “ or color changes on the shaft anywhere other then where Adam welded it ? No you didn’t , so the rest of the shaft will be just fine . Clearly the man knows WTH he’s doing as he has years and years of experience and oh , not to mention he is a third Gen machinist , so there SMH 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you for the very interesting and informative video. It also makes me happy to see someone wearing safety glasses under their welding helmet. I learned the hard way.
@shocking development Newbie question here , what is the point ? second question, as i wear prescription classes, how could i stack them under the hood ?
@@nicolaspillot5789 I wear prescription glasses too. Prescription safety glasses are available, and so are styles that can be worn over normal glasses. Personally I usually just keep a new, unscratched pair of snug fitting safety glasses set aside for welding, and I can see well enough except for some TIG. The reason for glasses irrespective of welding process is to protect from arc flash and back reflections. The glasses with correct rating can be completely clear, but cut UV to almost zero. Depending on the welding process, it is also not uncommon to end up with stray sparks or spatter inside a helmet, so glasses protect from that. MMA, MIG/MAG and even TIG weld beads often eject slag and deposits as a weld cools. Keeping eyes covered is the way to go when checking out a weld. Lots of TH-cam's welding with no gloves, white shortsleeve t-shirt and staring at their weld beads with no eye protection. I am mystified by this.
As it is possible to do so, I would turn down the diameter of the damaged portion by about .020'' on the diameter prior to welding. As after dimensioning, your (weld) root does not get anywhere near the surface as if you do a straight weld up. Hence, I will assume to achieve superior bonding and metal integrity.
Nice work, Adam. Can I ask, I noticed you regularly clipping the mig wire. What is the benefit and is that a practice I should be adopting? I rarely do that. All the best, Mart in England.
I wondered the same thing, figured it was to start with a clean full fresh wire but I'm not a welder and this is purely a guess from an observational standpoint
As a welder i only cut it off when I'm doing something important that's going to be inspected with X-ray for example or if the wire is to long. Most of the time I just tack another tack on the pile on the workbench, got a piece of flat bar tacked on to do that at.
I usually run a small bit of wire out and cut it so the shield gas is in the gun for the start of the weld. Sometimes I start the weld beside the joint so that the gas and puddle are well established; the start can be ground out. I do the same at the end so that the drop of slag goes beside the weld. Whatever works at the end of the day.
Great job but one concern. Lot of heat gone into that shaft after that weld up and no stress relief using a torch with heat applied going beyond that bearing shoulder and allowed to cool off before turning. If that shaft is under load there is risk it could shear off. We don't know the material so there's no way of evaluating the risk. It may well be perfectly fine!
As much heat gets past the shoulder, I do not think this shaft will develop any crack potential As the shaft cools, the heat witch is more intense at the end actually transfers back toward the shoulder in a very gradual state.
This is bad ass, what a great way to fix a clapped out old shaft. I like the spray weld build up but to my mind this has to be a stronger way to build up.
He has to cut a key way so weld build was necessary. The opposite end takes a bearing and can be spray welded. All it has to do is fit the inner bearing race.
Great repair Adam. One thing that has helped me after 30 years of welding is getting a PAPR welding hood. While expensive, it keeps me from breathing welding fumes and keeps me glasses fog free. A word to the wise, stay away from good Mexican food the day before.
Or bad Mexican refried beans within 24 hours before. XD Does a fan help as a much less expensive option if the hood is not feasible? Or does that present complications?
@@johnbonner922 depends how strong or close the fan is, if you are using gases they can be blown away. But I use a fan sometimes especially when welding inside a truck just to blow out the fumes and keep the air moving.
After numerous "experts" here have stated the "power" of the famous Colchester lathes, I predict the shaft will fracture into hundreds if not thousands of fragments.
I have to say the film work (while it had always been great) is even better. The closeups (as in the clutch shaft pt 2) were super explicit. Abbey does some great work and zooms in with her Carhart green welly boots (steel toe, no doubt). Thanks, guys! Adam, you have come a long way since I started following you waaaaaaaaaay back in the days of Motion quick clips. I'm happy for your success. I'm even more pleased you two found each other. Have a great year.
Have you tested the hardness of your weld buildup? I'm just an amateur, but having tried to machine some welded repairs with high speed, it seemed to be quite difficult to cut. Certainly carbide is the choice for the job. Really enjoying seeing more machining content from you. Thanks!
Great video thanks for going over your tooling and the inserts it's a HUGE help!! Bc I have a hard time trying to find inserts and know what's what with all the different codes and every brand has a different code set up. Just confuses the sh*t out of me, so thanks again adam!! Like I said love these videos when you extra informative on everything. Good job!!
Just a thought, if your MiG welder was connected to a lead screw 4-5 TPI and then connected to the chuck with a belt, you would be able to vary the feed rate of the weld by varying the speed of the welding fixture in the video. Maybe bit much maybe? maybe not? Great video❗👍
So what are your first thoughts on the Walter tools? I was thinking of getting some of their tools myself. Granted more end mills, but I am curious of their overall quality.
Great job! Could you add a few details about the welding process you used? Dual shield or solid wire? I would have been concerned it would warp with the heat.
A great pro machinist , a great teacher and very well explanations 👌I can watch this guy doin its thing all day and never get tired 👍👌
I'm really impressed with the finish on that for tuning on MIG weld build up. It show just how solid your welds really are!
Sure is satisfying to see the freshly welded shaft turned down the second time to all shiny metal.
Absolutely enjoying these rebuild videos with weld buildup, spray weld buildup, using a turning table for clean weld buildup. Being able to see each setup that you do is pretty awesome. I just bought some new tooling so I can do consistent block manufacturing. Bought a new clamp and some fixture plates. I can't wait to use them. Thanks for all the great content.
When I did my training all those years ago, we had machines that were 'inch' which came from England or the USA. Then we had Japanese and European stuff that was metric, so I understand both. BUT (never start a sentence with but!) metric is so easy and just as accurate.
I also understand both, but I prefer imperial.
oh dont go down that road again ;) The metric guys (like me) always gonna sy metric is more accurate and the same other way around :)
@@Wolfy_80 Who mentioned accurate?
@@Wolfy_80 Anyone who says either metric or imperial systems are more accurate is a fool who doesn’t understand accuracy. Accuracy doesn’t care which system you use.
@@grntitan1 ...YOU SUMMED IT UP PERFECTLY-!!!
good repair, i do a lot of weld build up repairs at work on big Liebherr 996 hydraulic pistons (internal rod to piston seals), good practice to pre-machine the area to be repaired under the finished size 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm per side so your under the fusion zone and clean any embedded dirt and grime off the surface so it doesn't become a inclusion or bubble in the weld. that would help a lot with the surface finish.
also for the new shop, digital micrometers are really nice and can switch between inch and metric. the Insize brand are fairly good but quantum mics from Mitutoyo are stunning. you get what you pay for though.
love to watch you turning welded up parts. I have not had too much success as I am not that good of a welder. keep up the great videos.
As a long-time 3d printing enthusiast, it's nice to watch you working in *proper* measurements for once 😂
Looks good Adam, looking forward to the rest of the story. Thanks for sharing. Fred.
I use a bore welder and the welding machine settings are quite different to allow upside down welding, a major benefit is reduced heat. Low volts. Drip transfer welding. Needs to be laid over a machined surface.
Thank you Adam!
Great video! Looking forward to part two.
11:12 I really like my 3M Adflo respirator with Speedglas helmet to prevent my glasses from fogging up. It also keeps me from inhaling all sorts of nasty things, as I seem to spend more time grinding than welding. The joys of being a rookie, I guess.
lovely bit of work man!
A real machinist as you handle all , imperial or metric.
the imperial guys need to be able to handle metric as well more often then the metric guys need to handle imperial :)
It's weird to hear from you talk millimeters, but for sure feels good for metric viewer
Do we call him Stephan from now on.
Just about all ball bearings are metric sizes. He mentioned a 6207 bearing which means it sits on a 35 mm shaft. No choice but to work in metric.
Walter carbide plates and tool are great at my Shop we are using quite a few different parts from them mostly smaller finishing plates for ID and OD
and one more thing, just go get some metric measuring tolls, makes life much easier
@@kaeptenxy3569 don't remember seeing a single brand new measuring tool in his shop except his calipers.
@@nils1953 dose not need to be a nice new digital mitutoyo, even tho those are amazing and can also be set to imperial ore metric but when working on stuff in metric its best to measure in metric as well.
I am from the metric world anyways :)
Pleas make a Video from testcuts whith the inserts!
Who else has their wife asking why you spend half an hour watching a guy welding and machining?
Get a new one. You shouldn't need to explain it.
Seems like very slight tool marks, but still looks great!
Pardon my ignorance, Ladies and Gents: Would machining the welded build up be possible/advisable using a HSS tool? (Or would the welded build-up pose issues with the cutting tool)
Cheers!
Try it, and let us know?
I can do a passable MIG weld, but nowhere near like that.
👍👍❤❤
Adam you need to get a fart sniffer for your welding mask..... A little waist mounted fan with a hose connecting to the welding helmet.
Uk metric great work
Did you do the finishing pass with the "10" insert? It looks like you had the "20" insert for the finishing pass.
You could have showcased that CRC anti splatter spray on the rotary and chuck. protecting your equipment and all. Looks great so far!
So the bright band at 20:50 was caused by the use of a different kind of welding rod?
Finally some normal measurements 🤭
Hi From Australia
I will be interested to see what kind of material is used to spray weld the small Torrington type needle roller inner bearing surface, if it is the shaft itself it needs to be Rockwell 55-60 C scale. I did not know you could get that hardness with spray welding?
The spray weld area will support the bearing race. The bearings will never touch the shaft. Shaft hardness is not an issue.
@@paulcopeland9035 Torrington needle bearings use the shaft to run on, no inner race. Usually used on the inner of clutches therefore only turn when the clutch is disengaged.
Eutectic make a hard facing spray that you can not turn in a lathe , you have to grind it . 21022 is fine as long as the bearing has an inner race , too soft to run rollers directly on though .
@@johnsawyer2516 This assumes that the application is an automotive type clutch. In this case I don't know. If it is driven continuously except when the clutch is disengaged the reverse would be true. In any event the shaft really does need to be hard. Spray welding is a low temperature application of metal powders together with a binder. I would really like to know the hardness achievable with this process.
There must be an alternative, if there is enough shaft material. Torrington also make thin hardened inner sleeves to fit on a shaft, The shaft could be turned down and a hardened sleeve fitted. Job done.
@@johnmcnamara3719 there's plenty of information, both on his videos and on Google, about how hard you can get the spray to turn out. Hint: more than hard enough.
Regarding inserts, is 10/20/30 the nose radius?
I believe the nose radius on these inserts is determined by the last two numbers before the hyphen. So 0.4, 0.4 and 0.8 respectively.
The 10 / 20 / 30 are basically the toughness of the insert. The higher the number, the tougher the insert. The lower the number, the harder the insert.
Are you getting close to the point of just making a new shaft?
Why? The shaft is now as good as new. Better actually. A turned welding is very strong.
@Thompson Jerry. Why making a new shaft when customer just want to get it repaired?
If, in some alternate reality there was a smarter version of yourself, and you owned your own business, you'd be out of work real quick. A guy buying a old large for hobby work isn't going to want to pay to have a new shaft machined. Either way, there's absolutely no reason for that.
@@paulcopeland9035 But not hard.
@@stargazer7644 ...No need. The bearing race does the work. BTW, if you want to see how spray welding is used in heavy industry and high tech go to "Flame Spray". This is a business that has been operating world wide for over 50 years that I know of. They do every type of spray welding and coating, including extreme pressure and high temperature applications. What Adam does is a fine process and very useful in the machining world, however the "Flame Spray" process goes well beyond the "everyday" needs.
how much you charge Earl?
What kind of live center is that?
It looks like it has inter changeable center ends on it?
Looks like the world's most useless drill chuck :P
Vertex makes them
Just check out: Vertex live center set
*The rich sees an economic crisis as a garage sale also the rich stays rich by investing and diversifying their portfolio with stocks, Crypto currency and Forex trading which is the wisest thing every individual needs to do and it's real profiting.*
I have secured financial freedom by investing in bonds , equities , EFT's and crypto currency the most profiting of them all..
The economic hardship , recession , unemployment and the loss of job caused by covid pandemic is enough to push people into financial ventures .
I got 70% of my total portfolio in crypto and I have been making good profits.
@LeeAnne Deardorff Exactly, which is why I will always recommend Expert Dave Jevans to all Newbie /greenhorn interested in making bigger profits on crypto. He is reliable and profitable💯.
I heard his trading strategies are really good
I was wondering if you were to have turned the shaft down some before welding it up, if that would have given you a thicker final finish. Since the new weld is merely a few thousands, is that okay and work good... IDK
That's true but unlike a spray weld I don't think a mig weld is ever going to peel off since you have much more penetration and especially fusion because the base metal his heated and mixed a lot more.
So while he didn't remove anything, because a weld bead is so much more energy dense, I think it should be perfectly fine as is.
Mig bites in enough that it ain't coming off.. the advantage of turning it down first is that all the metal is the same hardness so tool pressure remains the same and it eliminates thicker spots where the material is harder.. it didn't look like it was a problem with this repair but it's a problem I've run into before
I'm not a machinist, but I find this fascinating and impressive.
I sure do
With building up material like that, what about the hardness and steel type of the material? Isn't that an issue?
Beautiful work and very interesting to see. Question, who makes the hand rest you use? Would you recommend it?
@11:12 Adam, if you're having issues with your safety glasses fogging up, clean the lenses with some regular ole Shaving Cream/Foam. Just rub it all over the lenses until they're coated, then wipe it all off with a Dry cloth and the lenses won't fog up on you.
It works great, my Grandfather showed me this trick like 30 years ago and I've using it on all my glasses, bathroom mirrors and the interior of my car windows ever since. Alternatively you can also use Liquid Dish Soap without water and it will do the same thing, it's just a little more fiddly to get a streak free finish. Give it a try I guarantee you won't be disappointed! 👍👍
Thanks for the tip, I’ll give that a try 👍🏻
Abby - thank you for the filter on the welding. Much appreciated
Outstanding work, as always, your weld build up was fantastic 👍👍👍 I’m a marine engineer and had to turn and machine few parts love to watch theses projects. Amazing work Adam
Curious what all the welding heat does to the properties of the shaft.
Dumb question b/c I don't know: Is the original shaft hardened? Does it matter if the buildup is hardened or not?
Those Walter Tigertec are pretty good inserts. I also like Iscar and Sandvik for turning as well. For basic roughing or medium turning, Mitsubishi and Sumitomo are very cost effective options for a manual machine too. Just passing it along 😊
ULINE REHAWK S-14171C we did a test at our company of over 100 different safety glasses and these allow enough airflow to not fog when you are bending over working, out of 100 guys close to 80 picked these great work my dude
Yess, metric 👌
Can confirm as a UK guy, i appreciate the metric Adam! Great work as always. Cheers.
I did my PhD work and first years of graduate research at the Max-Planck Institute for Biological Cybernetics in Tübingen. I lived right next to the Walter-Tools work and had a friend who was an engineer in the turning-tools department. Their tooling is famous world-wide. Glad to see you using their carbide inserts.
You want a prize? Recognition? Why post your resume on a comment?
@@insaneindamembrane7961 lol! I have a masters in chemistry and a PhD in rocket science and everytime I came home from my work at NASA I went past the restrooms, so could you tell me where yours are?
@@nils1953 PhD in rocket science😂😂😂😂😂😂😂. Good one
I did my PhD work at the tavern. Majored in alcoholic beverages. Tops in me class.
Start by welding from the end so you have built up heat when you get inside the end of the groove
Things that have held true over time.
How could you know if someone is vegan?....they will tell you.
How could you know if someone uses the metric system?....they will tell you.
Another high quality Abom79 repair 👍😊 I for one absolutely love your channel and videos Adam 👍👍and To all the “ armchair know it all machinists” I pose a question to you , did you see any “ bluing “ or color changes on the shaft anywhere other then where Adam welded it ? No you didn’t , so the rest of the shaft will be just fine . Clearly the man knows WTH he’s doing as he has years and years of experience and oh , not to mention he is a third Gen machinist , so there SMH 🤦🏻♂️
daar zijn we blij mee metrich !😂😂😂😂😁😁😊😊😊😊
...WELL, YOU CAN HAVE IT-!!!
Thank you for the very interesting and informative video. It also makes me happy to see someone wearing safety glasses under their welding helmet. I learned the hard way.
@shocking development Newbie question here , what is the point ? second question, as i wear prescription classes, how could i stack them under the hood ?
@@nicolaspillot5789 I wear prescription glasses too. Prescription safety glasses are available, and so are styles that can be worn over normal glasses. Personally I usually just keep a new, unscratched pair of snug fitting safety glasses set aside for welding, and I can see well enough except for some TIG.
The reason for glasses irrespective of welding process is to protect from arc flash and back reflections. The glasses with correct rating can be completely clear, but cut UV to almost zero. Depending on the welding process, it is also not uncommon to end up with stray sparks or spatter inside a helmet, so glasses protect from that. MMA, MIG/MAG and even TIG weld beads often eject slag and deposits as a weld cools. Keeping eyes covered is the way to go when checking out a weld.
Lots of TH-cam's welding with no gloves, white shortsleeve t-shirt and staring at their weld beads with no eye protection. I am mystified by this.
As it is possible to do so, I would turn down the diameter of the damaged portion by about .020'' on the diameter prior to welding.
As after dimensioning, your (weld) root does not get anywhere near the surface as if you do a straight weld up.
Hence, I will assume to achieve superior bonding and metal integrity.
I LOVE Walter tooling. Amazing as they heat up they get even tougher! Definitely run without coolant.
So far so good ! I like to centre pop the end of built up shafts so i know where the keyway was . 👍
Nice work, Adam. Can I ask, I noticed you regularly clipping the mig wire. What is the benefit and is that a practice I should be adopting? I rarely do that. All the best, Mart in England.
I wondered the same thing, figured it was to start with a clean full fresh wire but I'm not a welder and this is purely a guess from an observational standpoint
Just cutting off excess wire so it's not in the way when starting the next weld and you can position the gun exactly where you want it.
As a welder i only cut it off when I'm doing something important that's going to be inspected with X-ray for example or if the wire is to long.
Most of the time I just tack another tack on the pile on the workbench, got a piece of flat bar tacked on to do that at.
It is to get rid of excess wire and the little ball that forms at the end.
I usually run a small bit of wire out and cut it so the shield gas is in the gun for the start of the weld. Sometimes I start the weld beside the joint so that the gas and puddle are well established; the start can be ground out. I do the same at the end so that the drop of slag goes beside the weld. Whatever works at the end of the day.
Adam, I have an old Starrett height gauge and a couple of Kant-twist clams I would like to send to you. How do I do that please?
does welding on it hurt the hardness of the shaft?
I find it interesting that all the shaft diameters are in mm, but it has a 1/2"-13 UNC thread in the end....
Not only that, Colchester is an English lathe, but UNC is a USA thread!
Weird how much that tap was taking off, eh?
@@SamSeedy I wonder if it was actually a BSW thread rather than UNC?
Which type of welding wires or rods are good for shaft rebuilding?
I'd like to know that too.
It depends if it needs to be heat treated or not, for something like this er70 is fine but if it needs heat treating then something like er80d2
Thank you Adam I been waiting for you to do an episode with Matric work I am watching your wonderful videos from South Africa
Love the camera work on this one... You're trying some new things and they're working well... Thank you !!!!!
Great job but one concern. Lot of heat gone into that shaft after that weld up and no stress relief using a torch with heat applied going beyond that bearing shoulder and allowed to cool off before turning. If that shaft is under load there is risk it could shear off. We don't know the material so there's no way of evaluating the risk. It may well be perfectly fine!
As much heat gets past the shoulder, I do not think this shaft will develop any crack potential
As the shaft cools, the heat witch is more intense at the end actually transfers back toward the shoulder in a very gradual state.
With the amount of power that will be going through that shaft, I very much doubt it'll break
...I'm pretty sure that the chuck on the positioner was an effective heat sink-!!!
Gotta Love Metric ❤❤❤
I put a 'cheater' lens in my helmet many years ago. Works for me, I'm sure others have stated the same.
Amazing, you have so much skill at this stuff, really well done.
Is there a reason to not use a way cover when sanding or polishing?
Very cool video. Turning the built up weld is always a little tough.
Adam, I'm watching on a mac high res. screen - your video quality here is absolutely amazing.
Curious... Why does it matter what brand you're using?
@@littlejackalo5326 why does it matter to you what matters to them?
@@littlejackalo5326 obviously its because apple products are a status symbol and vastly superior
Nice stack of dimes on that keyway at 9:00 🙂
Another great job Adam. Thanks for sharing.
11:13, and I thought it was just me...LOL
Awesome job Adam , Proves you don't need to make new parts every time .. That's what job machine shops are for .. SO ENJOYED !!
This is bad ass, what a great way to fix a clapped out old shaft. I like the spray weld build up but to my mind this has to be a stronger way to build up.
He has to cut a key way so weld build was necessary. The opposite end takes a bearing and can be spray welded. All it has to do is fit the inner bearing race.
Have you tried no fog spray on your glasses?
Converting 35mm to inches looks like FUN.
35 / 25.4 = 1.37795'' it's really not that hard.
Great repair Adam. One thing that has helped me after 30 years of welding is getting a PAPR welding hood. While expensive, it keeps me from breathing welding fumes and keeps me glasses fog free. A word to the wise, stay away from good Mexican food the day before.
$2000 for a product he'll use for an hour a month. Not viable.
Or bad Mexican refried beans within 24 hours before. XD
Does a fan help as a much less expensive option if the hood is not feasible? Or does that present complications?
@@johnbonner922 depends how strong or close the fan is, if you are using gases they can be blown away. But I use a fan sometimes especially when welding inside a truck just to blow out the fumes and keep the air moving.
Love to see something get repaired.
Olá amigo Adam!!!
Acompanhando seus trabalhos que pra mim são aulas de como se fazer um bom trabalho!!!
Abraço daqui do Brasil a todos aí!
I wonder what all that heat and the shrinkage from the extended weld did to the rest of the shaft?
After numerous "experts" here have stated the "power" of the famous Colchester lathes, I predict the shaft will fracture into hundreds if not thousands of fragments.
Cool! Lathe work to make a lathe work.
I have to say the film work (while it had always been great) is even better. The closeups (as in the clutch shaft pt 2) were super explicit. Abbey does some great work and zooms in with her Carhart green welly boots (steel toe, no doubt). Thanks, guys! Adam, you have come a long way since I started following you waaaaaaaaaay back in the days of Motion quick clips. I'm happy for your success. I'm even more pleased you two found each other. Have a great year.
Have you tested the hardness of your weld buildup? I'm just an amateur, but having tried to machine some welded repairs with high speed, it seemed to be quite difficult to cut. Certainly carbide is the choice for the job. Really enjoying seeing more machining content from you. Thanks!
Great video thanks for going over your tooling and the inserts it's a HUGE help!! Bc I have a hard time trying to find inserts and know what's what with all the different codes and every brand has a different code set up. Just confuses the sh*t out of me, so thanks again adam!! Like I said love these videos when you extra informative on everything. Good job!!
Just a thought, if your MiG welder was connected to a lead screw 4-5 TPI and then connected to the chuck with a belt, you would be able to vary the feed rate of the weld by varying the speed of the welding fixture in the video. Maybe bit much maybe? maybe not? Great video❗👍
i see smoke when you cutting , how long to you wait to measure , till the material cooles down ? great vid , thanks
That's the cutting oil that is smoking.
Waiting till the material is cool is a general good practice for measuring. You'll get a true measurement without heat expansion deviations that way
Excuse me who is the 3 people on the picture at the end of every video if thats ok to answer 😅
That is Adam with his Dad and Grandpa.
@@premiersi ohhh nice thank you
@@Not-C-418 Yeah I think they've had this family business going for a while. Based in Florida! 👍
@@Sun-ut9gr
Really ? Thats great. i wish i had a family like this lol
Just mesmerizing. An amazing quality of professionalism and skill. Thanks.
hoping you get to use the Starrett feeller gauges...cheers from Orlando, Paul
Nice job
man that turned up really good
So what are your first thoughts on the Walter tools? I was thinking of getting some of their tools myself. Granted more end mills, but I am curious of their overall quality.
Thanks Adam you are the man with the big smile 😁 From an old Navy flying Shoe🇺🇸
You explained in great detail...
What type of electrode?
Great job! Could you add a few details about the welding process you used? Dual shield or solid wire? I would have been concerned it would warp with the heat.
Metric!
Beautiful bead, Adam! And I really like that adjustable bar you use to steady your hand - first I've seen one of those.
18:50 Looking GOOD already!! . nice welding Adam!! :)