It's cool to see one of my favorite youtubers watch one of my new favorite youtubers. Always nice to see that a lot of engineering people on youtube appreciate each others work!
Semi-retired machine design engineer here. Very clever idea. The proof of concept with a remaining concern about precision is very familiar. I can hear my boss saying, "That's plenty good for our purpose." The time and effort spent is already justified. But that possibility of reaching the intended precision will keep your mind engaged/distracted for a long time. Excellent work!
(mold Maker here with 35 years of fitting experience) Use a surface grinder, and grind to fit all your fittings.🙂 and check your squareness on jour mill. Don't use a depth micrometer for accurate measurement, use your indicator and gauge pin, and gauge block for accurate measurements. Your ingenuity is on point! Awesome job!!!
@@JarppaGuruif he put it under the same tension it would have in its function state, then used the surface grinder it would most likely work well as he would make it true to function rather than its resting state.
"If i knew what i was doing , i wouldn't be doing it". This saying popped into my head not long ago while I was painting I don't know who said it or if I came up with it
What would be the purpose/value in learning if everything you did worked first try. I'd take being perfect over needing to learn painful tedious lessons.
That doesn't make any sense. You can see it by having a lucky streak of things that happened to work in a row. You can then extend that principle onto infinity. The fact is, if everything you did worked first try, then you'd be able to learn much more.
Invention, doesn't happen in one single shot. That's the hardest part about creating something new. Taking the first step, establishes proof of concept, which I would say you achieved quite well here! It will be interesting to see now, where you go, and how the final product comes out. I'm genuinely looking forward to following the invention process here.
Thanks, man! Yeah that's definitely true. I suppose that why many inventors go broke searching for the solution. I think I got a bit lucky for a first go honestly
This must be the BEST machining illustration EVER! It not only illustrates what a machinist does, but also illustrates what can go wrong and how to recover from it. Well done! Absolutely... Well, done indeed!
I like the way you guys define perfection. The only thing missing is a tiny sliver of tolerances that will not be required on %99 of work. You could ask far less of any big production boss and he’d laugh in your face. Have run machines on a production line but definitely not claiming machinist status. Thanks, keep thinkin.
At 3:40 I’m with ya and already a new sub. Your a true sculptor of your craft. I hope to take all that I can from your channel. If I am one tenth of your talent I will have robbed you and in debt to you I admit. Thank you for your generosity. GOD Bless
This is the kind of video that should be shown to kids in school to get them interested in learning about things like trigonometry and other subjects involved, we are only mostly told to learn things without knowing the practical use. Watching this as a young lad would've made me go "IF I LEARN TO CALCULATE THESE THINGS I CAN MAKE COOL STUFF FROM SCRATCH? SIGN ME UP" As a complete layman to most things related to this field (and not a native english speaker), I thought I was going to skip to the final product but I watched the whole thing mesmerized by the process, even though most of the jargon flew past my head it didn't matter, I wanted to see everything come together. Such a well planed, paced, structured and executed project AND video. All kudos to you and your craft, and hopefully my comment fills you with enough determination to make everything at least 0,0001 inches more precise!
Exactly, it's so easy to see how the current school system ruins it for everyone because it's all just numbers and letters with no real meaning to you UNTIL you advance enough that you actually even realize how incredible these numbers and letters are and how they can help in getting into a career you're truly passionate about.
As a fledgling garage machinist just trying to learn the ropes, your videos are absolutely mesmerizing. Between you, This Old Tony and Blondihacks, I’m never without amazing Machining content. Great work!
Actually, the problem can be cured by making the guide body in two pieces. A base and a cover in effect. The base is a flat plate with the slot for movement. The top is a box with just a partial slot for the head of the screw. The fun part is how to drive the screw, that is done by using a worm screw setup driven from the end with a hex shaft. In operation, the worm slides along the shaft as you move the body while it stays in engagement with the head of the screw. Then you turn the hex shaft to tighten the screw. A device that even Rube Goldberg would love.
"I made this mistake, but here's what I did next" is the most valuable content! A video showing someone's flawless execution at something is a tribute to the creator. A video showing how to adapt and save your work is about problem solving and passing on knowledge and experience. They look similar but they are not the same thing.
Slot of your personality has really been coming through in the last few videos and it’s fantastic don’t stop you’re a smart and funny guy and it’s great to see both
I reckon I've watched all of your videos twice, your attention to detail and depth is appreciated. It's too often these days that channels move towards more snappy and concise content. It's so great to see channels like yourself showing us the full process; I believe that's why you've attracted such a dedicated fanbase it's because it's full of crafts/ trades men and women who genuinely care about the little things.
Thanks Bradley. That's something that I totally understand why some people do. On a project this big it's hard to hit all the details in one video. But with some clever organizing/titling it can be spread to 4 videos (5 if you count the toe clamps) like I managed here. Anyway I really appreciate the encouragement. I definitely feel the pressure to make things faster/snappy/etc.
I love these small situations when you work in a shop where someone older worked before and you find things where you just think: What the Hell die he make this for? And then you are making something and run into the exakt situation these things were made for. Never fails to surprise me and to make me humble again for the people that have so much more experience than me. (refering to the shortened vise stop)
I think the dove tail has to expand before the guide is clamped. The dovetail sets everything square to the slot. Once square, then the guide can be clamped square to it. In your version the guide is clamping down to the plate surface before the dovetail can pull everything square. To solve this, I think you could have a bolt within a bolt. A shorter larger diameter bolt could thread through the half round and push off the bottom of the dovetail (like a set screw but it needs a bolt head). This same bolt would be tapped for a longer bolt. The longer bolt is for tightening the guide to dovetail insert. Both bolts could be tightened independently. You would need a box wrench and Alan key, like you adjust values on an engine. For bonus points you can do a side project to make an equally fancy tool.
@@InheritanceMachining what if, instead of a screw, it instead is a spring mechanism that pushes upwards and performs the locking? Then there's no twist applied to the part. Same concept as before with expanding the dovetail lock, but a couple slight changes to the topmost piece to contain the mechanism for compressing/releasing the spring.
@@zfolwick I would not fiddle with springs, instead I would replace the screw with an excenter-lever locking pin (similar to how scooter handlebars are locked). That would also make this mechanism toolless to adjust, while still being sturdy enough.
I have an idea to fix your flexing problem that doesn't require hardening (although heat treat would very much help). The bars you made that stay square to the table would need to be a little bit thicker, but you could machine a .075"x.075" ledge into the parallel sides bottom edge where it contacts the table. Then, recut the spreading dovetail piece so it is identical to what you have, EXCEPT have a .065"x.072" backstop sticking up on either end (poking up out of the slot) to fit the ledge you machined into the bar. It would clamp your parallel bars from the outside and prevent them from spreading apart. The .010" difference in height prevents it from lifting the bar when tightened to the table due to each half rotating out and up, and the .003" difference in width keeps the ledge recessed behind your parallel surface for your parts so it doesn't interfere at all. Assuming that it helps keep your bars from bowing, it will also make it easier to snug them to the table! It might make more sense if I sketch it so if you'd like to see what I envision just let me know how to get it to you. Thanks for making such creative projects!
I don't think heat treating would help with the flexing issue. The parts are deforming elastically and the amount of deflection is controlled by Young's modulus - a value that doesn't change with heat treatment.
This looks like a great concept. Thanks for sharing it. One possible idea for round two: Ditch the slot in the guide bar, maybe replacing it with a series of holes so you have a discrete set of adjustment points on that axis. Less flexibility in terms of adjustment, but that should mean the bar becomes much more resistant flexing as it tightens down.
I was thinking the same thing. No real reason for there to be adjustment in that direction since that clearance for an end mill doesn't change at all between big and small corner rounds
This is honestly so cool, i caught myself stoping the video several times just, to express how genious this is and the final resutl.... marvelous i adore your persistance to have everything so precisely cut, and the gut to trust your calculations. Great job, it was a pleasure to watch you work, you definitely earned a new subscriber!
This was one of the best videos to date. And man, am I jealous of the rotary table. I bet if you started selling your tools as kits, like the Hemingway Kits you’d sell a lot of them. I’d but a few for sure!
@@InheritanceMachining I"ve got to agree with Johan on this one, I know that were I to get into machining, that I would definitely find this to be an excellent kit to purchase and produce because not only does it have so many opportunities to practicing machining skills, but at the end of the project it becomes an amazing tool that will serve for many years to come!
I sincerely appreciate machinists. Every time I hold a bit of work someone like you has made, I have to stop and admire it for a moment - even if it came from a third-party vendor. You can always tells precision machining apart from mass-produced garbage. Love it.
This was brilliant. I've never seen the engineering process presented so cleanly and beautifully before. I am thoroughly amazed! I'm definitely subscribing. :D
Not true. Official patent paperwork being filed will win 99% of the time. If two people file on the same day then documentation of work performed can play a minor role. Not saying it's right, just repeating what patent attorney say. It's the same as that myth of mailing yourself a copy of your manuscript will validate future copyright claims.....IT WON'T.
@BigDaddy-yp4mi meh, if someone tries to patent my invention, ill literally off them. Then again, maybe thats why i have no inventions, God knows me too well😂
I just love all the mishaps you have here and there! It’s so much truer than many channels where “everything goes well” all the time! A hobbyist always have stories to tell! So, in reality, what caused the parts to bulge is the chamfer on the bottom of the top part, right? I was wondering how you were going to overcome it but glad ain’t that bad. I really don’t do much with my very tiny machines afraid of myself and my ocd taking over it!!! Says the wise: “Amateurs talk about precision and perfection; professionals talk about tolerances!!!” Thank you for the videos you produce!!! I bet you miss your grandpa a lot! I still miss mine after 37 years! Peace!
What a beautiful relationship with oneself and with the self-esteem that goes with it, taking account of reality in a balanced way! A wonderful lesson, for which we can only thank you. Bravo for the beautiful job!
Was thinking about the wall thickness because essentially having your wall thickness thicker, the amount of deformational effect from torquing down the part should become minimized. That however will depend if you increase the size of your screw and of course you will have limitations on the level of accuracy you may want to round corners with (e.g. workspace use), but the heat treatable alloy is a good thought.
Increasing wall thickness is definitely the way to go here. Deflection is a cube law to thickness. The heat treatment is a good thought, but in general will make the material harder, but not any stiffer as Youngs modulus/stiffness of a material is only minimally affected by hardening
@@preachers4135 Tungsten Carbide. Those pieces could be made by someone like Sandvik Coromant but the tooling alone to forge them would be a small fortune. And even then it would need to be a redesign. The friction slit to secure the part would no longer be possible. Maybe 304 Stainless steel would be worth a try.
Could possibly have a rectangular perimeter piece that fits around the main piece with a slightly larger width hallowed out region to allow the main piece’s sidewalls to expand into on either side. it could be cheap and easy to replace when wear is substantial enough to cause uneven placement of the workpiece along the larger rectangular perimeter piece
I realize this project didn't necessarily come out exactly the way you hoped in terms of precision-though I don't believe the level of precision you were aiming for is needed for simple stop blocks- I can't help but think how proud your Grandpa has to be looking down at you. The things you've done to his tools and WITH his tools is just awesome!
My brother got a bunch of our grandads tools and he's not the most active tool user and it breaks my heart that he snagged stuff that he'll never use and likely sell in a decade or two because he can't remember what it's for or from.
@@i8764theKevassitant Good luck! Edit: If you cannot convince him to sell you everything at the same time, try a few tools at a time, or one tool at a time. "Hey! I need this particular tool. A second-hand one is this much, and I'll pay you a bit more for the one grandpa left.
I Wish I had the knowledge that you have. the level of detail is incredible. I am not an engineer and don't have these tools but I could watch this Channel for hours just seeing the cuts made to such tight tolerances. Well done sir.
Just because it’s now public knowledge shouldn’t keep you from getting a patent. The biggest problem is the cost of the patent. This I know first hand as I’ve patented several motorcycle performance products . I’ve been knocked off by some big boys . One in fact was Harley Davidson. The fact that they even admitted they stole my idea still left me high and dry. I spent a bunch of money securing a utility patent. This is the only patent that really offers you protection. A design patent is virtually useless because a simple 10% change and your out of the game. Now a utility patent protects the idea itself regardless of design changes. While this all is true the BIG problem is how well the patent was applied for and written up. Big boys with deep pockets will have their attorneys pic it apart and most always find something they can use to beat you. Maybe not however but in the process you will spend a small fortune defending your patent. As in the case with HD while they agreed they stole it they replied saying you won’t live long enough to collect. Your patent is only as good as the money you have to defend it. Of course if your fortunate enough to have a perfect attorney your ok. However you will spend serious money in securing that as well. You will then have to basically prove how much money you will loose in sales as a result of this. The other sad part is you need to spend money to renew the patent ( I believe it was every3 or 5 years) bottom line is that you’d better be ready to spend serious money. Hence you really need something that will potentially produce even bigger money. In actuality it’s pretty pathetic that a patent is intended to help out the small guy with not so deep pockets and falls way short of that. Wrong…..simply WRONG.
@@arnoutdecock476 Not true. If someone else tries to patent this before him, he could bring this video forward as "Prior Art". His idea is perfectly safe. In fact, the video serves as proof of its origination.
I take a lot of these same approaches when designing something to 3d print. Such a satisfying feeling to create something that came as an abstract idea and turn it into a functional piece
My 3D printing philosophy often involves getting things close enough, testing them to failure, then redesigning and running the process again until the failure test is within reason. Also known as "Close enough to perfect"
I do like your brass washer idea to stop the screws from damaging the inside of the slides, but they are made of A2 tool steel, and you learned well that you could also just heat treat harden the slides :) EDIT: as for preventing warping, I wonder if it would make sense also bevel the outside bottom of the slides, make the dovetail nuts slightly wider than the slides and cut 2 full V grooves, one for each side of the slide. That should still allow the movement you want when loose, but greatly limit outward flex when tightening. I’m not sure that would solve the issue of friction though, you still might be able to lock it down slightly out of square. EDIT2: Never mind that’s dumb because that would make the nut stick out farther than the edge of the slide. You would also need to make the slides wider and have a skirt of some sort. It would definitely take way more fiddling than it’s probably worth
"If I can measure so much as a thousandth of an inch of variation I won't be pleased." "This is fine. Everything is fine." Sometimes the on the fly change you need in a project is managing your own expectations. Great work man.
Suggestions: Instead of one-sided beveled edges, it needs to be two compliant v-grooves either side on the top surface of the lower piece (two bevels each side, effectively, 4 altogether). Then the bottom bracket is forced into the upper block, re-enforcing its width dimension, not pushing the sides apart, and you can then lose the lower compliance cut. The clamp needs to be a cam lever-lock [at least, for a 1st stage compression, to get the clamping forces loaded up before a secondary nip], like on a bicycle seat post, then there is no torque being applied during the clamping action.
I love it when TH-cam gets it right and recommends a channel for me that I instantly love! I miss machining and the engineering that goes with it. Great job. Nothing more fun than creating shop jigs just to see how they work. Or don’t. How many Friday/Saturday nights I’ve spent in the wood shop making a solution for a one off problem, only to put the jig away in the cabinet then instantly forget what I made it for!
I'm a retired machinist, just found your video (s) and you just got another subscriber. You do nice work and have great ideas. I too have always found ways to work smarter and not harder and still do, but around the house now. Your sliding parallels / stops are a very well thought out idea. Have a great day !
I have a few thoughts for v2 - 1. Harden the parts to prevent deflection. 2. Since the width of the part isn't important, make it considerably wider to allow for more strength (to prevent deflection when tightened) and allow more surface area for the friction to the table. 3. Do they need to be that long? Shortening them would reduce the requirement for squareness and since they are fences for locating the part and your sweet clamps are holding them, maybe shorter parts will reduce the deflection issue.
Hardening won’t prevent deflection, the modulus of elasticity is an inherent property of each material and unaffected by heat treat. It will change the force required to “set” a deflection in the part (likely to the point it breaks before deflection sets), but not flex the part in the first place.
Shorter is a good idea! I also don't even really need the slot adjustability so a simple co-bored hole would work as well. Hardness would help with the friction but wont effect the elasticity as Malex mentioned. I'm hesitant to make them wider just because it takes up clamping real estate. Thanks for the ideas!
Try to turing the v groove 90 degrees, thisway the bulging is more prominent on one axis. Or make the contact a point contact... Anyway a alternative would be to have pins for alignment instead of the groove then you dont have lateral forces. Anyway this is super nifty stuff.
@@InheritanceMachining If you were to make them considerable wider then they are and drop the slot you could replace the dovetail making them square to the nut with pins. That way you it wouldn't expand anymore. You could also have the bar not touch the face of the plate and lock only with the expanding dovetail. That way friction from that contact would not keep the bar from aligning.
I have nothing to do with milling and steel work in general but just watching you do this stuff is super impressive to me… mad respect for all your work🙏🏻
It took Edison over 500 tries to get the lightbulb right. When asked how he felt about it taking him so long, he replied, “I learned 500 different ways it doesn’t work.” Success is iterative and you’re much closer than he was! Very nice product.
I normally hate being the pedant, but there are two errors here. 1 Edison didn't invent the lightbulb, he invented the screw in socket for lightbulbs. 2 the quote isn't about lightbulbs bit about his life generally, and is properly "I have found several thousand ways that don't work" though usually it's miss quoted as 10 000 ways that don't work
I’m soooo definitely looking forward to you using this unique new tool. This project Hass to be one of your works of art worthy of an award of some sort. 🤓
I'm a total novice looking from the outside in. Those blocks looked to be approximately an inch wide. Why not make them 1 1/8" wide or 1 3/8" wide to stop the flexing. Same with the "V" nut parts. ...ok, 1.125 and 1.375 🫣 I took machine shop in high school. I recall making a knurled handle on the lathe as others made brass pipes. 😂 I never got as far as using the milling machine but that big monster just amazed the heck out of me. With all that said, I'm thinking those beautiful pieces you made do exactly what you need, just as they are. 👍
Wow. This was extreme fun to watch even though I lack all qualification in that area. It's insane how meticulously well you documented your journey. The result is impressive. Thank you for the effort and for sharing!
You are a fantastic machinist man!! Don’t let anyone get you down ever!! You do nice work and you have a voice made for Radio! Your videos are so calming!!
it looks so good, i'm stoked to see what cool projects you'll be able to make with this. keep up the good work. i really look up to you, i wish to get just as good at machining as you.
@@InheritanceMachining it certainly looks like a very useful piece of kit, i'm not very familiar with American measuring units though so i don't know how much you'll be able to use those unique guides you made. and yes there's no better excuse to make something than to be able to use a piece of machinery.
You are a bloody genius! This has been an amazing series. I have been completely captivated and taking notes like a mad man! I agree with the others below that you really should patent this idea before someone else steals it and does so! This is just too amazing and well worth the trouble to patent. Even if you don't take any action and allow it to be produced freely, it will still give you some protection should you change your mind or if someone misuses it or causes problems later on.
they are working as intended Brandon, once youve set the stop they are doing the job. another way if you want it to be more square to the work is put a center punch in the stock and dead center in the mill to hold it in position and then bring the stops to the piece.
Thank you so much for making these videos. I got into university in mechatronics and i wasn't sure that this is what I want. But watching you make this rotary fixture plate and catching myself gasping on the tools and planning made me realise this is what I want. I usually work with wood but always wanted to explore more materials and tools. So thank you for the reassurance. (I know my grammar is not good but I wanted to communicate this experience somehow)
It is a joy for me to see an gifted mechanical engineer making a quality and accurate work on quality machine tools with quality toolling. Thank you very much. (Greetings from Czech Republic)
You can make the washers have a taper that fit into a grove inside the bars. The washers would pull the bar sides in to the washer width instead of pushing out.
I like the idea but I believe the problem is the slit inside the bottom dovetail piece, which functionally widens as it tightens; this also widens the top bar price. Not sure if that tapered washer idea would be able to counter those widening forces.
@@evanharriman5352 Not seeing how the spread in the dove tail piece causes spread in the top piece. I'm thinking it's the clamping force doing it. If you made them from A2, then hardened it all, it might. You could also try a rectangular nut, instead of round, to increase contact & resistance to spread. Then go w/ a square cut & slot instead of a taper. Another thought, rather than merely going beefier w/ the top block, would be to make it 1 sided w/ a ridge back on the other a la a long, cast iron precision straight edge. Then make the other side slightly beefier.
Adding a shaped slider rather than the washer would be rather elegant as long as it didn’t contribute any side ways forces, I’m sure I’ve seen something that did just this, just can’t remember where. Nuts!
I think what you need to do on your clamp bars. Put prismatic ways like a lathe has instead of the one sided ones. So the force is balanced when you tighten the clamp screw. You could even have a V way and a flat on the other side like a engine lathes tailstock has. That way there should be no spreading of the bar. I would also make your brass washers square instead of round. Just some ideas. Great video!
Love your work, and your videos are easy to get immersed into. I tinkered with machining 30+ yrs ago and looking back I wish I would have made different choices and stuck with it. But life happens and overseas called. Now I do blacksmithing and woodworking but always enjoy the fine attention to detail that only machining can do. Cheers, Mark
Did you consider ditching the dovetail slide completely, and using a piece of half round stock to directly sit up into the dovetail slot? If so, the top guide could have a small step that nests into the top of the dovetail. Also, I’d keep the guides running parallel to the dovetail slots. KISS. I can send you a pic if you want. Also, your mill is not round on every side, so bumping the guide to it could introduce an error (unless the guides were very tall).
Thanks, Chris (got the drawing) My only concern with that method is that there has to be some amount of clearance in that step and that will only increase with time and wear. But honestly could probably still work better than mine came out. You did just remind me about how some mills have progressive flute radii though. I completely forgot about that. If i remember correctly that came about to prevent harmonics from forming while running CNC.
@@InheritanceMachining yes, but in reality, you only need the guide to register on one side of the dovetail (the far side) but I understand your concern. If the guides are long enough (maybe half the diameter of the plate), then it would take a ton of use before anything wears. Specially if made of something harder than the plate. And any bird can be lightly stoned off. It just felt like you got locked in to the idea of using that complicated slide. You’re far smarter than I am and I’m really excited to see what you come up with. Love your content. Keep up the great work brother!
@@Chris-ox7qx Oh I'm definitely guilty of getting locked onto an idea 😅I had a thought early on about registering a straight tab to one side like your drawing but couldn't come up with a way to do it. I also really wanted the slot adjustability, even through I don't really need it, it could prove useful in some other application. If drop the slot idea I could use your idea but instead of vertical registration sides put chamfers above the dovetails on the plate so the top bar is pulled down into it squaring that way. Thanks for the kind words, man!
This is the first one of your videos that I've watched--and it won't be the last! Beautiful work! I like your attention to detail, even it if didn't work out exactly as intended.
A lesson from one of my coding professors. Never let perfect get in the way of good. The test piece was lovely work. The pieces you envisioned were works of art, even if not surface perfect. Good going!
I don’t know how I missed this one but it gave me something to enjoy while my dinner is finishing itself. You are incredibly talented young man and I am sure your grandfather would be very proud. I only wish I had the same inheritance you have.
I love the idea. I would improve it by making the slide bar's bottom chamfers into V guides. kinda like upside down lathe bed. Then add a matching V grooves in the top of the compliant tail. That way when you tighten it, it won't expand the bar. I'm not sure I've put my idea into words too well, but ii hope it makes sense to you :)
What would happen if u made a sacrificial dove tail to hold it then tighten it down and mill the faces? Would that then true up the faces when under tension ?
Time for dovetail brass washers to pull the expanding sides in! Or not, I'm a software engineer with a wood shop I don't know what I'm talking about :D But I can't wait to see what you do with it!
This would add some complexity but is a clever solution while allowing to maintain the same width; but would Brandon rise to the challenge of additional complexity (laughing as I 'ask')
I was thinking the same thing of cutting a v groove in the washers, but that would entail creating a matching slot in the bottom of the slot and with rotational cutting you can only create flat. But I do believe I figured out a method of counteracting the expansion, still trying to figure out how to avoid the rotational offset with tightening the screw
I'm not a machinist at all. I've never even attempted anything related, but I am an admirer of the kind of skill and passion it takes to become proficient at it. Even being completely ignorant of the terminology and application of a lot of this, I really enjoyed this video, it was fascinating and your approach is awesome. Thanks
@@irishwristwatch2487 no that would increase the hardness, not much the stiffness. Herdening them would make it more resilient and less prone to denting for example, but that would not fix the flex problem.
@@ShinnahWilde thicker would be one way to increase stiffness, but not the only one. The problem is the pressure applied by the screw head tends to squish the material around in the shape of a cone, then pushing it outward. You can mitigate the effect with more thickness, but you could also counter the effect with a slight angle at the right place, so that the resulting force is only downward, or very slightly inward (a slight concave face is less problematic than convexe) ... look at pull down jaws on a vise for example ... You have enough force / pressure, you just need to use it efficiently.
Man, if you were my shop teacher in high school, I'd be working a whole different trade right now. Amazing video, simple but entertaining editing, and overall chill guy vibes; 10/10 video my friend. Instant like and subscribe.
The expanding dovetail is great. As an ME I'd make these mods. 1. 50% longer dovetail. 2. Square shoulders on the dovetail that rise, say, 3/4" above the surface of the rotary fixture plate. 3. A larger, stiffer cross block with an internal slot that rides on the shoulders of the expanding dovetail thus maintaining the 90 degree angle between the dovetail and the cross block.
10/10 content, humor and a relaxing voice paired with almost (LOL) perfect machining of metal parts makes for a great video, i hope to see these fixxed soon
Sorry if someone mentioned this already but you can put a zigzag pattern on the bottom of the brass washer, and have the inside match the zigzag pattern, so that when you tighten the screw, the washer will stop the guide from expanding. I have no idea how to machine that pattern on the inside of the guide though. A simpler version is to just have a U shape pattern on the brass washer and add matching grooves inside the guides, though making that accurate would be tricky. The other thing that come to mind is do you need the entirety of the guide to be touching the bottom? Perhaps a simple washer can help remove that friction. Having space on the bottom also help prevent debris from getting in the way. Food for thought.
Hi I enjoy your videos greatly. I was in charge of a small mechanical design office for 17 years. We threw away our drafting machines in the early 1990's and moved to CAD (2D then). I would have thought that you would have moved to CAD as well. After using both the drafting board and now CAD (or as some programs refer to it as CAE), I would never ever go back to the board. When designing parts, manufacturers often supply the CAD models for their products so that they can be dropped into an assembly. This also applies to simple things like bearings. More importantly If the properties of a section are not known, just sketch it and select Region Properties and all manner of info is produced -- CoG, area, moments of inertia etc.
This is my first video and first time on this channel, and I just wanted to watch what the invention could be and I got so hooked by you voice and skill that I watched the whole video and I regret not a single second. I just finished my education in "metal work stuff" sorry I'm from Germany and I don't know the exact English specification for my job. 😅. In German its Konstruktionsmechaniker. And I'm still amazed every day what is all possible with great metal working skill. It's always a pleasure to learn new things. Don't know where I wanted to went with that one. So greetings all and have a nice day!
From a number of comments I've read the fix would be to re-make the parts a bit wider to account for the .005 deflection. Just a thought, bolt the squaring guides down and index the ends in. The center has widened at this point, so mill off .005 on each side essentially putting a dished surface along the sides when you loosen the nuts. As you re-tighten the bolts, the sides will spread outward and re-form to a flat surface.... providing you torque the bolts down the same each time. (With your demonstration at the end of your video it sure looked like they worked flawlessly! Really enjoy your videos.)
... what I like about your work is your commanding knowledge of mathematics and geometry you seem to be a trained draftsman if not a mechanical engineer, and you tackle anything that comes your way ... at 74 years, it brings some fond memories ... as I've said before, ingenuity unlimited ...
Finally I found an old fashioned American craftsman on TH-cam actually producing something new and useful for production. I’m brilliant! LOL. You have a new subscriber. This production video was awesome!
This video and glas blowing has taught me one thing: The universe is a lot squishier than I would like it to be. If the part is non- functional anyway you could see if that air hardening feature can be leveraged for some added rigidity.
l am not a machinist, more of a fabricator and welder. But I respect your idea and the method you used to build it and test it! I think your idea worked as you said 99% because it enabled you to quickly lock the part in - and round the corners.
I worked as a mold maker for a while and the rotary cross slide table was used to do this job on parts. The rotary cross slide milling head did this as well. Then there were parts with a lot of angles when the rotary cross slide head was used with the rotary cross slide table, and that was when I quit mold making and went into QC.
I think it's great.
It's cool to see one of my favorite youtubers watch one of my new favorite youtubers. Always nice to see that a lot of engineering people on youtube appreciate each others work!
i love how each engineering youtuber watches every other one, thats how you know that a youtuber actually enjoys what they do
@@9_1.1same with chemists on youtube
we think It's great.
hello there
Semi-retired machine design engineer here. Very clever idea. The proof of concept with a remaining concern about precision is very familiar. I can hear my boss saying, "That's plenty good for our purpose." The time and effort spent is already justified. But that possibility of reaching the intended precision will keep your mind engaged/distracted for a long time. Excellent work!
Very true indeed. Though lots of great idea in this comment section. Thank you!
@timengleman “Close enough for government work.”
Reminds me of that saying, "Perfect is the enemy of good."
Unless you need REALLY tight tolerances 5k variance shouldn’t even make a difference in the finished piece.
Just make one side thicker. Accept the other will bow.
(mold Maker here with 35 years of fitting experience)
Use a surface grinder, and grind to fit all your fittings.🙂 and check your squareness on jour mill. Don't use a depth micrometer for accurate measurement, use your indicator and gauge pin, and gauge block for accurate measurements. Your ingenuity is on point! Awesome job!!!
not bout accurate. it bow when you tighten it. he was not first try it
@@JarppaGuruif he put it under the same tension it would have in its function state, then used the surface grinder it would most likely work well as he would make it true to function rather than its resting state.
Wise words from somebody i knew “if everything you did worked first time, you wouldn’t learn anything new”
I mean you would learn what's right to do since it worked
"If i knew what i was doing , i wouldn't be doing it".
This saying popped into my head not long ago while I was painting I don't know who said it or if I came up with it
What would be the purpose/value in learning if everything you did worked first try. I'd take being perfect over needing to learn painful tedious lessons.
I would rather not learn anything then
That doesn't make any sense.
You can see it by having a lucky streak of things that happened to work in a row. You can then extend that principle onto infinity.
The fact is, if everything you did worked first try, then you'd be able to learn much more.
Invention, doesn't happen in one single shot. That's the hardest part about creating something new. Taking the first step, establishes proof of concept, which I would say you achieved quite well here!
It will be interesting to see now, where you go, and how the final product comes out. I'm genuinely looking forward to following the invention process here.
Thanks, man! Yeah that's definitely true. I suppose that why many inventors go broke searching for the solution. I think I got a bit lucky for a first go honestly
This must be the BEST machining illustration EVER! It not only illustrates what a machinist does, but also illustrates what can go wrong and how to recover from it.
Well done! Absolutely... Well, done indeed!
or just do an FEA analysis before machining so you can see unexpected deformations
@@sandygrungerson1177 a finite element analysis analysis?
@@benkilgore i dont like saying "FEM analysis," it sounds like a woke literary theory.
@@sandygrungerson1177 6:14 6:16 6:18 6:18
6:45 😅
@@williamrutiser1485 no.
Brandon I'm no machinist but lemme tell you anyway, even if it isn’t perfect this is still BEYOND cool. Very well done 👏
I really appreciate that, man! We'll get it there. I say "we" because there are a lot of great ideas in these comments!
I like the way you guys define perfection. The only thing missing is a tiny sliver of tolerances that will not be required on %99 of work. You could ask far less of any big production boss and he’d laugh in your face. Have run machines on a production line but definitely not claiming machinist status. Thanks, keep thinkin.
I am a machinist and you did a great job. It’s progress with the process lol
yeah cool man. beyond cool. BEYOND. Well done champ. the tin can man says.
At 3:40 I’m with ya and already a new sub. Your a true sculptor of your craft. I hope to take all that I can from your channel. If I am one tenth of your talent I will have robbed you and in debt to you I admit. Thank you for your generosity. GOD Bless
This guy is literally the Bob Ross of machining
Happy Mistakes
Literally his name is Brandon...
ahahahahahahaah. ahahahahahahahahaha your so funny. aaaaAAAAAAAA hahahahahahaa
Right? It was very soothing and I got tired in no time.
Watched the rest of it the next morning though. :D
"wheeeeee!"
@@MacUsher Not sure what you are trying to say. Isn't Bob short for Robert? ^^
This is the kind of video that should be shown to kids in school to get them interested in learning about things like trigonometry and other subjects involved, we are only mostly told to learn things without knowing the practical use. Watching this as a young lad would've made me go "IF I LEARN TO CALCULATE THESE THINGS I CAN MAKE COOL STUFF FROM SCRATCH? SIGN ME UP"
As a complete layman to most things related to this field (and not a native english speaker), I thought I was going to skip to the final product but I watched the whole thing mesmerized by the process, even though most of the jargon flew past my head it didn't matter, I wanted to see everything come together. Such a well planed, paced, structured and executed project AND video.
All kudos to you and your craft, and hopefully my comment fills you with enough determination to make everything at least 0,0001 inches more precise!
Exactly, it's so easy to see how the current school system ruins it for everyone because it's all just numbers and letters with no real meaning to you UNTIL you advance enough that you actually even realize how incredible these numbers and letters are and how they can help in getting into a career you're truly passionate about.
Feels like I watched a knock-off video being no side projects 😂
Seriously though, amazing job again 👏
Store brand IM 😂 Thanks!
Or you just watched a 25min video about a single side project.
I choose to believe cutting the screw was a side project
well he could've sharpened the blades as a sideproject
As a fledgling garage machinist just trying to learn the ropes, your videos are absolutely mesmerizing. Between you, This Old Tony and Blondihacks, I’m never without amazing Machining content. Great work!
It's honestly just a honor to be mentioned with those folks. Been following them for years 😁 Thanks a lot!
But if you run out might I suggest Cutting Edge Engineering, awesome channel like this one!
Don''t forget to mention Stefan Gotteswinterand there are even more awesome machinists.
mesmerizingggggggg wwwwooooooowwwww mesmerizing. Ahhhhhhhhhh. wohhhhh super COOL
I'm not a machinist, but this was soooooo comforting to watch.
thats why I subscribed ... and of course becausse I am fascinated about the work and ideas
It's been days but I just put his vids on to fall asleep to 😭😭😭
_Thicker walls on that slot will reduce the bowing to negligible. Fantastic work you did there._
A thicker wall on the work side, and a thinner one on the other, this will reduce any deflection on the work side.
Could you heat treat it to strengthen the sides?
Actually, the problem can be cured by making the guide body in two pieces. A base and a cover in effect. The base is a flat plate with the slot for movement. The top is a box with just a partial slot for the head of the screw.
The fun part is how to drive the screw, that is done by using a worm screw setup driven from the end with a hex shaft. In operation, the worm slides along the shaft as you move the body while it stays in engagement with the head of the screw. Then you turn the hex shaft to tighten the screw.
A device that even Rube Goldberg would love.
This is the first thing I'd try as well!
Why not have guides on the ends of the block to engage with the track?
Thank you for including your mistakes, so we can all be willing to forgive ourselves for mistakes!
"I made this mistake, but here's what I did next" is the most valuable content! A video showing someone's flawless execution at something is a tribute to the creator. A video showing how to adapt and save your work is about problem solving and passing on knowledge and experience. They look similar but they are not the same thing.
its great to see the things you would overlook !!!
You should probably file a patent on this, it's super cool.
you can't patent something if you have already publicly shared the idea
@@ejaz787 There's a one year grace period for the inventor to file following their own public disclosure of the idea
@@charliekritzmacher4698 ahh ok. must be different in the US
@@ejaz787time specifics might differ, but this principle refers to most countries.
@@provit88 yeah uk has no grace period
I love how excited he is. It's contagious.. A true artist! Amazing!Patent it!.
Too late for patents. It prior art now!
He's building out a new tech tree.
This is like a mini version of inventing the wheel or the lever.
I can see applications for this tech.
Ew IP is gross
@@poiu477lame af
Slot of your personality has really been coming through in the last few videos and it’s fantastic don’t stop you’re a smart and funny guy and it’s great to see both
Dawww, shucks... 😊 Thanks man!
My father was a tool and die maker and he always said " if it works on paper it should work". That guides me to this day.
Wise words outside the toolroom too.
If only it was like that with electronics and programming..
Pretty rude to call your dad a tool…
I have a custom cabinet millwork shop , I’ve heard that saying from architects and designers, but with wood it doesn’t always work
I reckon I've watched all of your videos twice, your attention to detail and depth is appreciated. It's too often these days that channels move towards more snappy and concise content. It's so great to see channels like yourself showing us the full process; I believe that's why you've attracted such a dedicated fanbase it's because it's full of crafts/
trades men and women who genuinely care about the little things.
Thanks Bradley. That's something that I totally understand why some people do. On a project this big it's hard to hit all the details in one video. But with some clever organizing/titling it can be spread to 4 videos (5 if you count the toe clamps) like I managed here. Anyway I really appreciate the encouragement. I definitely feel the pressure to make things faster/snappy/etc.
I love these small situations when you work in a shop where someone older worked before and you find things where you just think: What the Hell die he make this for? And then you are making something and run into the exakt situation these things were made for. Never fails to surprise me and to make me humble again for the people that have so much more experience than me. (refering to the shortened vise stop)
I have sooo many random little fixtures and jigs for all kind of one off parts, sometimes you run into a project and go "i have something for that!"
What shortened vise stop are you referring too?
As a mechanical engineering student, I'm super impressed how well you seemlessly explain everything as you go along. Keep it up man👍
I think the dove tail has to expand before the guide is clamped. The dovetail sets everything square to the slot. Once square, then the guide can be clamped square to it. In your version the guide is clamping down to the plate surface before the dovetail can pull everything square. To solve this, I think you could have a bolt within a bolt. A shorter larger diameter bolt could thread through the half round and push off the bottom of the dovetail (like a set screw but it needs a bolt head). This same bolt would be tapped for a longer bolt. The longer bolt is for tightening the guide to dovetail insert. Both bolts could be tightened independently. You would need a box wrench and Alan key, like you adjust values on an engine. For bonus points you can do a side project to make an equally fancy tool.
You could have it as a walked key for the bolt, and have a spring loaded Alan key inside it, be a bit finicky to build but it should work.
Inventing a new thing has to be a new level of overcomplicating
true, true! but there is some beauty into it!
I'm not sure where to go from here 😅
@@InheritanceMachining what if, instead of a screw, it instead is a spring mechanism that pushes upwards and performs the locking? Then there's no twist applied to the part. Same concept as before with expanding the dovetail lock, but a couple slight changes to the topmost piece to contain the mechanism for compressing/releasing the spring.
@@zfolwick I would not fiddle with springs, instead I would replace the screw with an excenter-lever locking pin (similar to how scooter handlebars are locked). That would also make this mechanism toolless to adjust, while still being sturdy enough.
@@matekovacs2696 that sounds superior. Minimal fuss.
I have an idea to fix your flexing problem that doesn't require hardening (although heat treat would very much help). The bars you made that stay square to the table would need to be a little bit thicker, but you could machine a .075"x.075" ledge into the parallel sides bottom edge where it contacts the table. Then, recut the spreading dovetail piece so it is identical to what you have, EXCEPT have a .065"x.072" backstop sticking up on either end (poking up out of the slot) to fit the ledge you machined into the bar. It would clamp your parallel bars from the outside and prevent them from spreading apart. The .010" difference in height prevents it from lifting the bar when tightened to the table due to each half rotating out and up, and the .003" difference in width keeps the ledge recessed behind your parallel surface for your parts so it doesn't interfere at all. Assuming that it helps keep your bars from bowing, it will also make it easier to snug them to the table! It might make more sense if I sketch it so if you'd like to see what I envision just let me know how to get it to you. Thanks for making such creative projects!
Just thickening the sides quite alot could stop bowing and also provide much more surface area for friction to hold it square.
I don't think heat treating would help with the flexing issue. The parts are deforming elastically and the amount of deflection is controlled by Young's modulus - a value that doesn't change with heat treatment.
agreed, many people confuse yeild strength with stiffness@@cwell2112
This looks like a great concept. Thanks for sharing it.
One possible idea for round two: Ditch the slot in the guide bar, maybe replacing it with a series of holes so you have a discrete set of adjustment points on that axis. Less flexibility in terms of adjustment, but that should mean the bar becomes much more resistant flexing as it tightens down.
I was thinking the same thing. No real reason for there to be adjustment in that direction since that clearance for an end mill doesn't change at all between big and small corner rounds
This is bordering on genius. So impressed.
Much appreciated! Thank you
This is honestly so cool, i caught myself stoping the video several times just, to express how genious this is and the final resutl.... marvelous
i adore your persistance to have everything so precisely cut, and the gut to trust your calculations.
Great job, it was a pleasure to watch you work, you definitely earned a new subscriber!
Thanks a lot, Martin! Welcome!
i might have an addiction to these machining videos. very cool to watch.
Same. I need more but I also know that making them takes a lot of time and effort so all I can do is be patient
i am a machinist also, im work with regular and cnc machines for 9 years, and.. i say this guy is very clever
I'd like to recommend This Old Tony if you're not already familiar.
There are horse additions honestly 😉 But seriously, thank you
@@InheritanceMachiningI've never been addicted to horse but I imagine it has quite a kick
This was one of the best videos to date. And man, am I jealous of the rotary table. I bet if you started selling your tools as kits, like the Hemingway Kits you’d sell a lot of them. I’d but a few for sure!
Funny you should mention that. We've been considering the idea lately. Maybe I need to put a poll up... Thanks, Johan!
@@InheritanceMachining I"ve got to agree with Johan on this one, I know that were I to get into machining, that I would definitely find this to be an excellent kit to purchase and produce because not only does it have so many opportunities to practicing machining skills, but at the end of the project it becomes an amazing tool that will serve for many years to come!
I thought of that a couple of videos back, you could sell these things. Saying that I have no idea of how big the machining market is
I sincerely appreciate machinists. Every time I hold a bit of work someone like you has made, I have to stop and admire it for a moment - even if it came from a third-party vendor. You can always tells precision machining apart from mass-produced garbage.
Love it.
This was brilliant. I've never seen the engineering process presented so cleanly and beautifully before. I am thoroughly amazed! I'm definitely subscribing. :D
Thanks so much!
Same
Always good form to document your work. Keeps lawyers out of your pockets
Not true. Official patent paperwork being filed will win 99% of the time. If two people file on the same day then documentation of work performed can play a minor role. Not saying it's right, just repeating what patent attorney say. It's the same as that myth of mailing yourself a copy of your manuscript will validate future copyright claims.....IT WON'T.
@@BigDaddy-yp4mi wow. who spit in your bosco
@@BigDaddy-yp4mi official patent will also not work in the face of China.
@BigDaddy-yp4mi meh, if someone tries to patent my invention, ill literally off them. Then again, maybe thats why i have no inventions, God knows me too well😂
@@RR-by2iyThat needs to change. Be the change.
I just love all the mishaps you have here and there! It’s so much truer than many channels where “everything goes well” all the time! A hobbyist always have stories to tell! So, in reality, what caused the parts to bulge is the chamfer on the bottom of the top part, right? I was wondering how you were going to overcome it but glad ain’t that bad. I really don’t do much with my very tiny machines afraid of myself and my ocd taking over it!!!
Says the wise:
“Amateurs talk about precision and perfection; professionals talk about tolerances!!!”
Thank you for the videos you produce!!!
I bet you miss your grandpa a lot! I still miss mine after 37 years!
Peace!
What a beautiful relationship with oneself and with the self-esteem that goes with it, taking account of reality in a balanced way! A wonderful lesson, for which we can only thank you. Bravo for the beautiful job!
For the "bow" problem You could make the top part of a heat-treatable alloy (do the heat treatment) and increase the wall thickness.
Was thinking about the wall thickness because essentially having your wall thickness thicker, the amount of deformational effect from torquing down the part should become minimized. That however will depend if you increase the size of your screw and of course you will have limitations on the level of accuracy you may want to round corners with (e.g. workspace use), but the heat treatable alloy is a good thought.
Increasing wall thickness is definitely the way to go here. Deflection is a cube law to thickness. The heat treatment is a good thought, but in general will make the material harder, but not any stiffer as Youngs modulus/stiffness of a material is only minimally affected by hardening
@@jeffreyhayashida2355What about material type? Is there a material that is stiffer?
@@preachers4135 Tungsten Carbide. Those pieces could be made by someone like Sandvik Coromant but the tooling alone to forge them would be a small fortune. And even then it would need to be a redesign. The friction slit to secure the part would no longer be possible. Maybe 304 Stainless steel would be worth a try.
Could possibly have a rectangular perimeter piece that fits around the main piece with a slightly larger width hallowed out region to allow the main piece’s sidewalls to expand into on either side. it could be cheap and easy to replace when wear is substantial enough to cause uneven placement of the workpiece along the larger rectangular perimeter piece
As a manufacturing engineer who designs steel fixtures, racks, and carts every day, this was immensely satisfying
I realize this project didn't necessarily come out exactly the way you hoped in terms of precision-though I don't believe the level of precision you were aiming for is needed for simple stop blocks- I can't help but think how proud your Grandpa has to be looking down at you. The things you've done to his tools and WITH his tools is just awesome!
My brother got a bunch of our grandads tools and he's not the most active tool user and it breaks my heart that he snagged stuff that he'll never use and likely sell in a decade or two because he can't remember what it's for or from.
@@i8764theKevassitant If you can afford, please convince him to sell it to you, if you can.
@@SapioiT that's the plan.
@@i8764theKevassitant Good luck! Edit: If you cannot convince him to sell you everything at the same time, try a few tools at a time, or one tool at a time. "Hey! I need this particular tool. A second-hand one is this much, and I'll pay you a bit more for the one grandpa left.
I really appreciated that. Thank you so much!
As usual , a beautiful group of parts showing great pride in your creations. Enjoyed the video very much, cheers!
Thanks a lot! As usual 😉
I Wish I had the knowledge that you have. the level of detail is incredible. I am not an engineer and don't have these tools but I could watch this Channel for hours just seeing the cuts made to such tight tolerances. Well done sir.
You need to patent that, and make a lot of money off of it! It’s utterly brilliant.
Unfortunately, by making this video he's no longer able to patent it.. it is now public knowledge.
Just because it’s now public knowledge shouldn’t keep you from getting a patent. The biggest problem is the cost of the patent. This I know first hand as I’ve patented several motorcycle performance products . I’ve been knocked off by some big boys . One in fact was Harley Davidson. The fact that they even admitted they stole my idea still left me high and dry. I spent a bunch of money securing a utility patent. This is the only patent that really offers you protection. A design patent is virtually useless because a simple 10% change and your out of the game. Now a utility patent protects the idea itself regardless of design changes. While this all is true the BIG problem is how well the patent was applied for and written up. Big boys with deep pockets will have their attorneys pic it apart and most always find something they can use to beat you. Maybe not however but in the process you will spend a small fortune defending your patent. As in the case with HD while they agreed they stole it they replied saying you won’t live long enough to collect. Your patent is only as good as the money you have to defend it. Of course if your fortunate enough to have a perfect attorney your ok. However you will spend serious money in securing that as well. You will then have to basically prove how much money you will loose in sales as a result of this. The other sad part is you need to spend money to renew the patent ( I believe it was every3 or 5 years) bottom line is that you’d better be ready to spend serious money. Hence you really need something that will potentially produce even bigger money. In actuality it’s pretty pathetic that a patent is intended to help out the small guy with not so deep pockets and falls way short of that. Wrong…..simply WRONG.
@@arnoutdecock476 Not true. If someone else tries to patent this before him, he could bring this video forward as "Prior Art". His idea is perfectly safe. In fact, the video serves as proof of its origination.
There will be no interest, CNC works better and faster. 😎
Totally agree, that was a very clever idea, he needs to be re-warded with a patent.
I take a lot of these same approaches when designing something to 3d print. Such a satisfying feeling to create something that came as an abstract idea and turn it into a functional piece
My 3D printing philosophy often involves getting things close enough, testing them to failure, then redesigning and running the process again until the failure test is within reason. Also known as "Close enough to perfect"
I do like your brass washer idea to stop the screws from damaging the inside of the slides, but they are made of A2 tool steel, and you learned well that you could also just heat treat harden the slides :)
EDIT: as for preventing warping, I wonder if it would make sense also bevel the outside bottom of the slides, make the dovetail nuts slightly wider than the slides and cut 2 full V grooves, one for each side of the slide. That should still allow the movement you want when loose, but greatly limit outward flex when tightening. I’m not sure that would solve the issue of friction though, you still might be able to lock it down slightly out of square.
EDIT2: Never mind that’s dumb because that would make the nut stick out farther than the edge of the slide. You would also need to make the slides wider and have a skirt of some sort. It would definitely take way more fiddling than it’s probably worth
"If I can measure so much as a thousandth of an inch of variation I won't be pleased." "This is fine. Everything is fine." Sometimes the on the fly change you need in a project is managing your own expectations. Great work man.
Suggestions: Instead of one-sided beveled edges, it needs to be two compliant v-grooves either side on the top surface of the lower piece (two bevels each side, effectively, 4 altogether). Then the bottom bracket is forced into the upper block, re-enforcing its width dimension, not pushing the sides apart, and you can then lose the lower compliance cut. The clamp needs to be a cam lever-lock [at least, for a 1st stage compression, to get the clamping forces loaded up before a secondary nip], like on a bicycle seat post, then there is no torque being applied during the clamping action.
Or two screws, with expanding dovetails
Yes. This is it!!
I love it when TH-cam gets it right and recommends a channel for me that I instantly love! I miss machining and the engineering that goes with it. Great job. Nothing more fun than creating shop jigs just to see how they work. Or don’t. How many Friday/Saturday nights I’ve spent in the wood shop making a solution for a one off problem, only to put the jig away in the cabinet then instantly forget what I made it for!
Thanks again, Scott! Hopefully I find more uses for this. At least that was the point in the first place 😂
It’s crazy how much I can learn from watching your videos. Thanks for all the time you’ve put into making these!
My pleasure! Thanks for being here to watch them 😊
I love how excited he is. It's contagious.
I'm a retired machinist, just found your video (s) and you just got another subscriber.
You do nice work and have great ideas. I too have always found ways to work smarter and not harder and still do, but around the house now.
Your sliding parallels / stops are a very well thought out idea.
Have a great day !
Thanks a lot, Brent! Welcome
I have a few thoughts for v2 - 1. Harden the parts to prevent deflection. 2. Since the width of the part isn't important, make it considerably wider to allow for more strength (to prevent deflection when tightened) and allow more surface area for the friction to the table. 3. Do they need to be that long? Shortening them would reduce the requirement for squareness and since they are fences for locating the part and your sweet clamps are holding them, maybe shorter parts will reduce the deflection issue.
Hardening won’t prevent deflection, the modulus of elasticity is an inherent property of each material and unaffected by heat treat. It will change the force required to “set” a deflection in the part (likely to the point it breaks before deflection sets), but not flex the part in the first place.
Shorter is a good idea! I also don't even really need the slot adjustability so a simple co-bored hole would work as well. Hardness would help with the friction but wont effect the elasticity as Malex mentioned. I'm hesitant to make them wider just because it takes up clamping real estate. Thanks for the ideas!
Try to turing the v groove 90 degrees, thisway the bulging is more prominent on one axis. Or make the contact a point contact... Anyway a alternative would be to have pins for alignment instead of the groove then you dont have lateral forces. Anyway this is super nifty stuff.
@@InheritanceMachining If you were to make them considerable wider then they are and drop the slot you could replace the dovetail making them square to the nut with pins. That way you it wouldn't expand anymore. You could also have the bar not touch the face of the plate and lock only with the expanding dovetail. That way friction from that contact would not keep the bar from aligning.
I'm no engineer, but how about an L profile where the larger side has the screw offset, and the shorter side touches against your part?
I wanna know how far this man can climb in pursuit of of precision using his home shop
I have nothing to do with milling and steel work in general but just watching you do this stuff is super impressive to me… mad respect for all your work🙏🏻
It took Edison over 500 tries to get the lightbulb right. When asked how he felt about it taking him so long, he replied, “I learned 500 different ways it doesn’t work.” Success is iterative and you’re much closer than he was! Very nice product.
I normally hate being the pedant, but there are two errors here. 1 Edison didn't invent the lightbulb, he invented the screw in socket for lightbulbs. 2 the quote isn't about lightbulbs bit about his life generally, and is properly "I have found several thousand ways that don't work" though usually it's miss quoted as 10 000 ways that don't work
@@Dreadought "It took me seventeen years to get three thousand hits in baseball. I did it in one afternoon on the golf course."
Hank Aaron
Team Tesla here... :)
I’m soooo definitely looking forward to you using this unique new tool. This project Hass to be one of your works of art worthy of an award of some sort. 🤓
I'm a total novice looking from the outside in.
Those blocks looked to be approximately an inch wide. Why not make them 1 1/8" wide or 1 3/8" wide to stop the flexing. Same with the "V" nut parts.
...ok, 1.125 and 1.375 🫣
I took machine shop in high school. I recall making a knurled handle on the lathe as others made brass pipes. 😂
I never got as far as using the milling machine but that big monster just amazed the heck out of me.
With all that said, I'm thinking those beautiful pieces you made do exactly what you need, just as they are. 👍
Wow. This was extreme fun to watch even though I lack all qualification in that area. It's insane how meticulously well you documented your journey. The result is impressive. Thank you for the effort and for sharing!
You are a fantastic machinist man!! Don’t let anyone get you down ever!! You do nice work and you have a voice made for
Radio! Your videos are so calming!!
this has inspired me to go out of my way and watch another machining video
it looks so good, i'm stoked to see what cool projects you'll be able to make with this. keep up the good work. i really look up to you, i wish to get just as good at machining as you.
I really appreciate that. Thanks a lot! I think there's a ton of ways I'll be able to use this. Might even have to make up a couple reasons as well 😉
@@InheritanceMachining it certainly looks like a very useful piece of kit, i'm not very familiar with American measuring units though so i don't know how much you'll be able to use those unique guides you made. and yes there's no better excuse to make something than to be able to use a piece of machinery.
You are a bloody genius! This has been an amazing series. I have been completely captivated and taking notes like a mad man! I agree with the others below that you really should patent this idea before someone else steals it and does so! This is just too amazing and well worth the trouble to patent. Even if you don't take any action and allow it to be produced freely, it will still give you some protection should you change your mind or if someone misuses it or causes problems later on.
You are the Bob Ross of machining!... And this is my therapy. Thank you!
🎨 thanks!
they are working as intended Brandon, once youve set the stop they are doing the job. another way if you want it to be more square to the work is put a center punch in the stock and dead center in the mill to hold it in position and then bring the stops to the piece.
Oh that's pretty clever... i had a similar through for any parts that do take a centering pin, a guide on 1 side would square it up very easily
Thank you so much for making these videos. I got into university in mechatronics and i wasn't sure that this is what I want. But watching you make this rotary fixture plate and catching myself gasping on the tools and planning made me realise this is what I want. I usually work with wood but always wanted to explore more materials and tools. So thank you for the reassurance. (I know my grammar is not good but I wanted to communicate this experience somehow)
I dont know, but Im gonna watch the video twice if I dont see any side projects.
Did you watch it twice? 😉
@@InheritanceMachining yep!
It is a joy for me to see an gifted mechanical engineer making a quality and accurate work on quality machine tools with quality toolling. Thank you very much. (Greetings from Czech Republic)
You can make the washers have a taper that fit into a grove inside the bars. The washers would pull the bar sides in to the washer width instead of pushing out.
I like the idea but I believe the problem is the slit inside the bottom dovetail piece, which functionally widens as it tightens; this also widens the top bar price. Not sure if that tapered washer idea would be able to counter those widening forces.
@@evanharriman5352
Not seeing how the spread in the dove tail piece causes spread in the top piece. I'm thinking it's the clamping force doing it.
If you made them from A2, then hardened it all, it might.
You could also try a rectangular nut, instead of round, to increase contact & resistance to spread. Then go w/ a square cut & slot instead of a taper.
Another thought, rather than merely going beefier w/ the top block, would be to make it 1 sided w/ a ridge back on the other a la a long, cast iron precision straight edge. Then make the other side slightly beefier.
Adding a shaped slider rather than the washer would be rather elegant as long as it didn’t contribute any side ways forces, I’m sure I’ve seen something that did just this, just can’t remember where. Nuts!
I think what you need to do on your clamp bars. Put prismatic ways like a lathe has instead of the one sided ones. So the force is balanced when you tighten the clamp screw. You could even have a V way and a flat on the other side like a engine lathes tailstock has. That way there should be no spreading of the bar. I would also make your brass washers square instead of round. Just some ideas. Great video!
I literally just had this idea as well! Just like the lathe ways like you said. Thanks for the validation!
Love your work, and your videos are easy to get immersed into. I tinkered with machining 30+ yrs ago and looking back I wish I would have made different choices and stuck with it. But life happens and overseas called. Now I do blacksmithing and woodworking but always enjoy the fine attention to detail that only machining can do. Cheers, Mark
Did you consider ditching the dovetail slide completely, and using a piece of half round stock to directly sit up into the dovetail slot? If so, the top guide could have a small step that nests into the top of the dovetail. Also, I’d keep the guides running parallel to the dovetail slots. KISS. I can send you a pic if you want. Also, your mill is not round on every side, so bumping the guide to it could introduce an error (unless the guides were very tall).
Thanks, Chris (got the drawing) My only concern with that method is that there has to be some amount of clearance in that step and that will only increase with time and wear. But honestly could probably still work better than mine came out. You did just remind me about how some mills have progressive flute radii though. I completely forgot about that. If i remember correctly that came about to prevent harmonics from forming while running CNC.
@@InheritanceMachining yes, but in reality, you only need the guide to register on one side of the dovetail (the far side) but I understand your concern. If the guides are long enough (maybe half the diameter of the plate), then it would take a ton of use before anything wears. Specially if made of something harder than the plate. And any bird can be lightly stoned off. It just felt like you got locked in to the idea of using that complicated slide. You’re far smarter than I am and I’m really excited to see what you come up with. Love your content. Keep up the great work brother!
Surely you would want the plate to be harder than the rod as the rod would be easier to replace?
@@ivancho5854 Good point.
@@Chris-ox7qx Oh I'm definitely guilty of getting locked onto an idea 😅I had a thought early on about registering a straight tab to one side like your drawing but couldn't come up with a way to do it. I also really wanted the slot adjustability, even through I don't really need it, it could prove useful in some other application. If drop the slot idea I could use your idea but instead of vertical registration sides put chamfers above the dovetails on the plate so the top bar is pulled down into it squaring that way. Thanks for the kind words, man!
Been waiting for this, let’s gooooo!! Love your work, mate 🫡
😁 thanks, man!
This is the first one of your videos that I've watched--and it won't be the last! Beautiful work! I like your attention to detail, even it if didn't work out exactly as intended.
A lesson from one of my coding professors. Never let perfect get in the way of good. The test piece was lovely work. The pieces you envisioned were works of art, even if not surface perfect. Good going!
Dude this is fantastic! Great work. I'm sure you'll figure out how to make it better.
Thanks man!
I don’t know how I missed this one but it gave me something to enjoy while my dinner is finishing itself. You are incredibly talented young man and I am sure your grandfather would be very proud. I only wish I had the same inheritance you have.
One screw, too cool man. Dang, thats incredibly clever. So satisfying
Thanks 😁
I love the idea. I would improve it by making the slide bar's bottom chamfers into V guides. kinda like upside down lathe bed. Then add a matching V grooves in the top of the compliant tail. That way when you tighten it, it won't expand the bar.
I'm not sure I've put my idea into words too well, but ii hope it makes sense to you :)
Just had the same idea! 🙂
it should only need to contact on the inner two of those four faces as well. (to minimize deflection of the small v guide outer face)
I think this would also work.
The lathe analogy is great. That's exactly what this needs if I want to maintain the slot adjustability
I agree. Have the force act in compression on the slide and then deflection in the slide should be negligible. Great video and love the end result.
Man, I only understood half of what you said, but your joy in producing these clamp guides is sooooo satisfying. Well done bro!!
😂 Thanks man!
What would happen if u made a sacrificial dove tail to hold it then tighten it down and mill the faces? Would that then true up the faces when under tension ?
That's actually a great idea! Basically compensating for the error
Wouldn't you then have to torque it the same amount each time then?
Time for dovetail brass washers to pull the expanding sides in! Or not, I'm a software engineer with a wood shop I don't know what I'm talking about :D But I can't wait to see what you do with it!
This would add some complexity but is a clever solution while allowing to maintain the same width; but would Brandon rise to the challenge of additional complexity (laughing as I 'ask')
I was thinking the same thing of cutting a v groove in the washers, but that would entail creating a matching slot in the bottom of the slot and with rotational cutting you can only create flat.
But I do believe I figured out a method of counteracting the expansion, still trying to figure out how to avoid the rotational offset with tightening the screw
I'm not a machinist at all. I've never even attempted anything related, but I am an admirer of the kind of skill and passion it takes to become proficient at it. Even being completely ignorant of the terminology and application of a lot of this, I really enjoyed this video, it was fascinating and your approach is awesome. Thanks
You should harden and surface grind those clamps, that would help. I was kinda anticipating the friction problem.
This is the right answer, itd get rid of the flex
@@irishwristwatch2487 no that would increase the hardness, not much the stiffness. Herdening them would make it more resilient and less prone to denting for example, but that would not fix the flex problem.
I suspect the guide will need to be thicker.
@@ShinnahWilde thicker would be one way to increase stiffness, but not the only one. The problem is the pressure applied by the screw head tends to squish the material around in the shape of a cone, then pushing it outward. You can mitigate the effect with more thickness, but you could also counter the effect with a slight angle at the right place, so that the resulting force is only downward, or very slightly inward (a slight concave face is less problematic than convexe) ... look at pull down jaws on a vise for example ... You have enough force / pressure, you just need to use it efficiently.
@@irishwristwatch2487 a smaller ra (smoother surface) would help with friction though.
Would making the part beefier solve your deflection issue?
Definitely. Compromises work holding space though
Man, if you were my shop teacher in high school, I'd be working a whole different trade right now.
Amazing video, simple but entertaining editing, and overall chill guy vibes; 10/10 video my friend. Instant like and subscribe.
Just started watching. I'm hoping for at least two side projects.
I’ve always noticed they run those slitting saws a lot slower too
Yup, keep that surface feet per minute in the correct range. I would 9f gone to the band saw first.
The expanding dovetail is great. As an ME I'd make these mods. 1. 50% longer dovetail. 2. Square shoulders on the dovetail that rise, say, 3/4" above the surface of the rotary fixture plate. 3. A larger, stiffer cross block with an internal slot that rides on the shoulders of the expanding dovetail thus maintaining the 90 degree angle between the dovetail and the cross block.
16:47
Chamfer ❤
CHAMFERS ❤
10/10 content, humor and a relaxing voice paired with almost (LOL) perfect machining of metal parts makes for a great video, i hope to see these fixxed soon
Thanks! I'm sure I'll be revisiting this one 😅
@@InheritanceMachining much deserved, ill be back to see😁
Sorry if someone mentioned this already but you can put a zigzag pattern on the bottom of the brass washer, and have the inside match the zigzag pattern, so that when you tighten the screw, the washer will stop the guide from expanding. I have no idea how to machine that pattern on the inside of the guide though. A simpler version is to just have a U shape pattern on the brass washer and add matching grooves inside the guides, though making that accurate would be tricky.
The other thing that come to mind is do you need the entirety of the guide to be touching the bottom? Perhaps a simple washer can help remove that friction. Having space on the bottom also help prevent debris from getting in the way. Food for thought.
Hi I enjoy your videos greatly. I was in charge of a small mechanical design office for 17 years. We threw away our drafting machines in the early 1990's and moved to CAD (2D then). I would have thought that you would have moved to CAD as well. After using both the drafting board and now CAD (or as some programs refer to it as CAE), I would never ever go back to the board. When designing parts, manufacturers often supply the CAD models for their products so that they can be dropped into an assembly. This also applies to simple things like bearings. More importantly If the properties of a section are not known, just sketch it and select Region Properties and all manner of info is produced -- CoG, area, moments of inertia etc.
This is my first video and first time on this channel, and I just wanted to watch what the invention could be and I got so hooked by you voice and skill that I watched the whole video and I regret not a single second.
I just finished my education in "metal work stuff" sorry I'm from Germany and I don't know the exact English specification for my job. 😅. In German its Konstruktionsmechaniker. And I'm still amazed every day what is all possible with great metal working skill. It's always a pleasure to learn new things.
Don't know where I wanted to went with that one. So greetings all and have a nice day!
I went from knowing practically nothing about precision machining to knowing a little, this was a surprisingly engaging video :)
From a number of comments I've read the fix would be to re-make the parts a bit wider to account for the .005 deflection. Just a thought, bolt the squaring guides down and index the ends in. The center has widened at this point, so mill off .005 on each side essentially putting a dished surface along the sides when you loosen the nuts. As you re-tighten the bolts, the sides will spread outward and re-form to a flat surface.... providing you torque the bolts down the same each time. (With your demonstration at the end of your video it sure looked like they worked flawlessly! Really enjoy your videos.)
... what I like about your work is your commanding knowledge of mathematics and geometry you seem to be a trained draftsman if not a mechanical engineer, and you tackle anything that comes your way ... at 74 years, it brings some fond memories ... as I've said before, ingenuity unlimited ...
Finally I found an old fashioned American craftsman on TH-cam actually producing something new and useful for production.
I’m brilliant!
LOL. You have a new subscriber. This production video was awesome!
Still loving every one of your videos I see. Glad to see things kicking off so well!
Don’t be so hard on you, that was amazing!
Hats off to you sir in sure you’ll reach the standard you aim for in no time!
Only as hard as I need to be 😊 thanks!
This video and glas blowing has taught me one thing: The universe is a lot squishier than I would like it to be.
If the part is non- functional anyway you could see if that air hardening feature can be leveraged for some added rigidity.
l am not a machinist, more of a fabricator and welder. But I respect your idea and the method you used to build it and test it! I think your idea worked as you said 99% because it enabled you to quickly lock the part in - and round the corners.
I generally don't watch such machinist videos, But this one was well presented, interesting, and reveals your philosophy. well done!!!
That's an insane technical drawing skill level here
I worked as a mold maker for a while and the rotary cross slide table was used to do this job on parts. The rotary cross slide milling head did this as well. Then there were parts with a lot of angles when the rotary cross slide head was used with the rotary cross slide table, and that was when I quit mold making and went into QC.